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ARCTIC ODYSSEY A SYMPOSIUM ON GLOBAL WARMING & CLIMATE CHANGE ABOARD THE KAPITAN KHLEBNIKOV JULY 8–20, 2009 MODERATED BY SAM DONALDSON

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  • 100% K

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    ARCTIC ODYSSEY

    A SYmpOSIum On GlObAl wARmInG &

    ClImATE ChAnGE

    AbOARD ThE Kapitan KhlebniKov

    JulY 8–20, 2009

    mODERATED bY SAm DOnAlDSOn

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    DEAR SmITh AlumnA,

    This summer, join ABC News veteran Sam Donaldson and Tom Litwin, director of the Clark Science Center at Smith College, aboard the expedition ship Kapitan Khlebnikov for a voyage into the Russian Arctic—one of the places where the consequences of rapid temperature change are especially evident. For those curious about the possible effects of global warming on the future of our planet, this symposium provides a multifaceted introduction to this complex issue. For those who simply wish to learn more, both intellectually and through hands-on experience, the Arctic is the place to be.

    Mr. Donaldson will moderate lively debates and panel discussions with top scientists and climate experts including Professor Litwin; Ross MacPhee, curator of vertebrate zoology at the American Museum of Natural History; Aron Crowell, director of the Smithsonian’s Arctic Studies Center in Alaska; and Jim McCarthy, professor of biological oceanography and former director of the Museum of Comparative Zoology at Harvard.

    The Kapitan Khlebnikov is a polar-class icebreaker that allows intrepid passengers to access remote corners of the globe. From its deck, board helicopters to view icy landscapes that may very well disappear. Sail the famed Bering Strait between Russia and the U.S., and cruise the Siberian coast to cross the Arctic Circle. Meet the Chukchi and other Arctic peoples—from artisans to reindeer herders—in their native landscapes, from the heart of the tundra to the sweeping seas. Discover the natural wonders of this awe-inspiring region, including 500-year-old skeletons of giant bowhead whales at Whalebone Alley; an enormous variety of bird life, from the

    crested auklets of the Chukchi Peninsula to the nesting cormorants of Kolyuchin Island; and Wrangel Island’s Pacific walrus population, one of the largest in the world.

    I hope you will join us and our cosponsors—Smithsonian, American Museum of Natural History, California Academy of Sciences, Columbia University, Harvard Museum of Natural History, and The Commonwealth Club—to explore the fascinating living laboratory of Russia’s Far North.

    Sincerely,

    Carrie Brown, Ed.M. ’82Executive DirectorAlumnae Association of Smith College

    P.S. Availability is very limited on this program. I encourage you to make your reservation right away. Please call Liz Bigwood at Smith Travel, 800-225-2029, to book space today.

    Cover: Polar bear © STEvEN J. KAZLoWSKI / ALAMy • Back cover: Zodiac excursion near Wrangel Island © AKoS HIvEKovICS

    c h u kc h i c h i l d

    W h at t o E x p E c t As is true for all polar expeditions, weather and ice conditions will affect the itinerary, and travelers must be able to take in stride the inevitable adjustments that occur on this type of adventure. Staff will assist participants in boarding helicopters and Zodiacs, and the staff physician will be available on shore excursions as well as aboard the ship. During the July 2007 global warming symposium, daily temperatures were generally in the high 40s to mid 50s °F; many days were sunny, some were foggy or overcast. All participants should be in good health and capable of walking unassisted over terrain that is often steep and rough. By forwarding the deposit for passage, the passenger certifies that he/she does not have any physical or other condition of disability that would create a hazard for him/herself or other passengers.

    A N C H O R A G E

    ALASKA

    RUSSIA

    W R A N G E L I S L A N D

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    ARCTIC ODYSSEY

    A SYmpOSIum On GlObAl wARmInG &

    ClImATE ChAnGE

    AbOARD ThE Kapitan KhlebniKov

    JulY 8–20, 2009

    mODERATED bY SAm DOnAlDSOn

  • ITInERARY

    n o t E : the following expedition itinerary serves as a guide only; the exact program may vary according to weather and ice conditions. during the voyage, formal presentations, panel discussions, and informal break-out sessions are scheduled throughout each day, with additional opportunities for participants to interact with the study leaders during excursions and meals.

    h o m E / a n c h o r a g E , a l a s k a Wednesday, July 8 Fly from home to Anchorage, Alaska, and transfer to the Hotel Captain Cook. Gather this evening for a welcome reception. hotEl captain cook (r)

    a n c h o r a g E / a n a d y r , r u s s i aThursday–Friday, July 9–10Take a morning flight from Anchorage to Anadyr, “losing” a day in crossing the International Date Line. After officially entering Russia, transfer to the Kapitan Khlebnikov, which waits offshore. kapitan khlEbnikov (b,l,d)

    c h u ko t k a p E n i n s u l aSaturday–Sunday, July 11–12 Presentations about the wildlife, geology, glaciology, and history of Russia’s Far North provide background for shore adventures on the remote, rugged Chukotka Peninsula, a naturalist’s paradise where high-latitude plants such as arctic poppies and saxifrages are in bloom. Explore the coast and nearby islands, home to myriad nesting seabirds, including least and crested auklets, tufted and horned puffins, and guillemots. At ancient cultural sites, examine ceremonial grounds, learning about the early inhabitants of the Russian Arctic. on yttygran Island, walk among the 500-year-

    old skeletons of giant bowhead whales at Whalebone

    Alley, a sacred place for early native whalers. kapitan khlEbnikov (2b,2l,2d)

    b E r i n g s t r a i t & c a p E d E z h n E vMonday, July 13Sail through the famed Bering Strait, the relatively narrow waterway separating Russia from the United States, with the island of Big Diomede, Russia’s furthest outpost, off the starboard bow. The politically significant strait is rich in wildlife, welcoming migratory seabirds in the summertime, as well as bowhead, gray, and minke whales. A planned stop at Cape Dezhnev, the easternmost point of Eurasia, allows time for a visit to the weather station and a walk to the monument to Russian navigator Semyon Dezhnev, who in the 1640s determined that Asia and North America were not attached. Continue north along the Siberian coast and cross the Arctic Circle. kapitan khlEbnikov (b,l,d)

    ko ly u c h i n i s l a n dTuesday–Wednesday, July 14–15 our journey northward offers a wonderful opportunity to watch from the deck as the Kapitan Khlebnikov plunges into the formidable pack ice of the Arctic ocean. visit the wildlife sanctuary on Kolyuchin Island, site of an abandoned weather station surrounded by thousands of nesting cormorants, murres, puffins, and other species. kapitan khlEbnikov (2b,2l,2d)

    W r a n g E l i s l a n dThursday–Friday, July 16–17 Wrangel Island was discovered in 1820 by Baron Ferdinand Wrangel, although he never set foot on shore. It appeared as a fata morgana, a type of optical illusion

    W h a l E b o n E a l l E y

    that we also may see on our voyage. A World Heritage

    site, Wrangel Island is home to the Arctic’s largest winter population of denning polar bears and one of the world’s highest concentration of walruses. Musk oxen and reindeer thrive here, as do tundra geese. In 1992, a tooth was discovered on Wrangel Island that is believed to have belonged to one of the last woolly mammoths, which roamed here just 3,700 years ago. Explore alpine valleys and the snow-covered tundra in the company of Russian scientists charged with protecting the island. kapitan khlEbnikov (2b,2l,2d)

    c h u kc h i s E a , s i b E r i a n co a s t / v a n k a r E mSaturday–Sunday, July 18–19 Heading south, leave the ice behind and explore Siberia’s coastal wilderness. visit vankarem, a village inhabited primarily by indigenous Chukchi and Siberian yupik people, who carry on the hunting, fishing, and reindeer herding traditions of their ancestors (“Chukchi” is a derivation of a Tungusic word for “man who is rich in reindeer”). Tonight enjoy a farewell dinner to celebrate this adventure. kapitan khlEbnikov (2b,2l,2d)

    a n a d y r / a n c h o r a g EMonday–Sunday, July 20–19 Arriving in Anadyr, transfer to the airport and board a flight over the Bering Sea back to Anchorage, “gaining” a day crossing the International Date Line. hotEl captain cook (b,l)

    a n c h o r a g E / h o m EMonday, July 20Transfer to the Anchorage airport for flights home. (b)

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  • STuDY lEADERS

    t o m l i t W i n , director of smith college’s clark science center, is currently working on thin ice: an Exploration of the bering sea in the

    age of climate change, an educational project that is part of the united nations’ international polar year observance.

    “In 2001 a new century began, as did an important transition in our thinking about climate change. We launched the Harriman Expedition Retraced, exploring the Alaska coast, Bering Sea, and Chukotka Peninsula to assess 100 years of change since E.H. Harriman’s 1899 expedition. Looking to the past, we saw that many observations could be explained by local and regional actions. But an uncertainty, an uneasiness, lingered—that a larger force was at play, namely, climate change. “Dramatic confirmation of a warming planet came with the United Nations’ report Climate Change 2001. Today climate change is a fact, and the debate has moved to the uncertainties of mitigation and adaptation. our current project, Thin Ice, has taken us on icebreaker research missions and into the Native subsistence communities where elders struggle to lead in a world of diminishing ice, a world millennia-old cultures have never known. Will the walrus, ice seal, bowhead whale, and polar bear continue to exist as keystone species in this ecosystem? Will their numbers be great enough to support traditional cultures? on this voyage we are participating in a ‘new age of exploration,’ at the interface of global societal forces and Arctic ecosystems.”

    a r o n c r o W E l l is the alaska director for the arctic studies center, national museum of natural history, smithsonian institution.

    “In the Arctic, global warming is unfolding at hyperspeed. This means not only a fast-disappearing polar ice pack but a multitude of other changes as well, from the timing of animal

    mODERATOR

    s a m d o n a l d s o n , a 41-year veteran of abc news, is one of the preeminent journalists of our time. he has served as chief White house correspondent for abc news; co-anchor, with diane sawyer, of abc’s primetime live; co-anchor of this Week with sam donaldson & cokie roberts; and host of the sam donaldson show—live in america, a daily news/talk radio program. during his career, mr. donaldson has covered breaking news events, reported on a broad range of topics, and conducted scores of interviews with newsmakers including president bill clinton and president george W. bush. he is the recipient of numerous honors, including four Emmy awards and three peabody awards. mr. donaldson’s wife, Jan smith donaldson, a former news correspondent and host of national geographic television’s recent presidential series, will accompany him on this expedition.

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  • migrations to declining seal, walrus, and polar bear populations, melting permafrost, and eroding coastlines. For indigenous peoples, a warming climate means unpredictable hunting and fishing, dangerous travels on the ice, and coastal villages that are being swallowed by the sea. As High Arctic regions are unlocked from permanent ice, corporations and governments rush in to stake resource claims and develop circumpolar shipping. “In my work as an anthropologist and archaeologist, I have focused on the unique cultural traditions, indigenous technologies, and social developments that have allowed human societies to survive and thrive in the Far North. over the last 12,000 years, Arctic peoples have responded with great resilience to recurring and sometimes dramatic changes in the climate and environment. We will see evidence of this journey through time as we visit

    such sites as Whalebone Alley and Wrangel Island and as we meet contemporary Siberian residents of the region. As the climate shifts yet again, greatly accelerated by global carbon pollution, the challenge to northern peoples is perhaps greater than it has ever been before.”

    r o s s m a c p h E E is former chairman of the department of mammalogy, american museum of natural history, where he has been a curator since 1988.

    dr. macphee’s wife, clare flemming, an associate in the division of vertebrate zoology/mammalogy at the museum, will also join us on this adventure.

    “When people ask, What is the point of going somewhere as remote and hard to get to as Wrangel Island?, for me the answer is clear. Wrangel Island, we believe, was the locus of the woolly mammoth’s last stand. Mammoths were living there at least as recently as 3,700 years ago—effectively yesterday, in my line of work. Finding such young material greatly enhances the possibility of obtaining high-quality, abundant DNA from the bones and teeth that litter the tundra. My colleagues and I are currently attempting to sequence the entire functional genome of the woolly mammoth—in other words, everything that genetically made a mammoth a mammoth—and specimens like those from Wrangel and adjacent parts of Arctic Siberia will make this possible.

    “The fact that mammoths and other large Eurasian mammals are no longer with us raises obvious questions: Did they disappear because of dramatic climate change? or was their demise due to overhunting by humans? or were other, less obvious, factors in play? The mystery of ice age extinctions continues to excite the imagination of scientists and lay people alike, and research into this area may help us anticipate and deal with future losses as well.”

    J a m E s m cc a r t h y, alexander agassiz professor of biological oceanography at harvard, is president of the american association for the

    advancement of science and was a lead author on the arctic climate impact assessment. he will be joined by his wife, sue mccarthy, science editor, university administrator, and passionate about arctic wildflowers.

    “Wrangel Island lies at the confluence of the Chukchi and East Siberian Seas, a very important region for walruses and polar bears. Walruses feed primarily on mollusks on the ocean floor shallower than a few hundred feet, and they stay close to either coasts or sea ice so that they can haul-out and rest while digesting a meal. Summer sea ice allows walruses to feed far from land, and as ice area shrinks during summer months, islands like Wrangel take on increasing importance for these animals. “Wrangel Island is also a particularly suitable location for polar bear dens. In late summer/early autumn female bears seek out depressions on the hill slopes of the island, where they create dens when snow comes. In these dens the females give birth and nurse their cubs until they leave the den with her in spring. “While sea ice extends the feeding range for walruses, it largely defines the feeding habitat for polar bears, which hunt their most preferred prey, the ringed seal, at the breathing holes that the seals create and maintain in sea ice. over the past few decades this area of the Arctic has experienced the largest changes in summer sea ice extent. Projections of likely future climate change for this region have important implications for the survival of both walruses and polar bears.”

    ExpEDITIOn TEAm

    an experienced and enthusiastic team of geologists, naturalists, ornithologists, historians, and marine biologists is an integral part of the global Warming & climate change symposium. they are experienced in—and enjoy—fielding questions, offering informal briefings, and engaging in discussions on everything from geography, geology, and environmental concerns to ornithology, marine biology, and the history of polar exploration. they broaden our understanding of marine ecosystems, bring to life the fascinating history of the places we visit, and interpret what we encounter during excursions.

    wIlDlIfE

    Not all the animals listed may be seen on your expedition, nor is this list all-inclusive. voyage routes, weather, ice conditions, shortages of food, and natural life cycles may limit the number and type of birds and animals encountered in the Arctic at any given time.

    m a m m a l s Gray Whale • Minke Whale • Bowhead Whale • Polar Bear • Musk ox • Lemming • Arctic Ground Squirrel • Reindeer • Walrus

    b i r d s • Pelagic Cormorant• Tufted Puffin • Horned Puffin (right)• Thick-billed Murre • Common Murre • Pigeon Guillemot • Black Guillemot • Glaucous Gull • Kittiwake • Least Auklet • Crested Auklet

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  • Kapitan KhlebniKov

    The Kapitan Khlebnikov was built in Finland in 1981, originally with the mission of keeping ice-bound shipping lanes open for other vessels. Not simply an ice-reinforced ship, the powerful 108-passenger, polar-class icebreaker has transported adventurous travelers to extremely remote reaches of the globe since 1992. Its interior provides comfortable passenger facilities, with accommodations in 52 first-class outside cabins and suites. Two helicopters assist with navigation and beach landings, and a fleet of sturdy Zodiacs is available for leisurely cruising of the Arctic waters and for shore excursions. There is an elevator for easy movement between decks, and a small medical clinic. All accommodations have windows that can be opened, as well as adjustable vents to control the flow of air inside the cabin. Floors are carpeted and there is ample wardrobe and drawer space. En suite bathrooms include a shower. The ship has two dining rooms with unassigned seating, a small library, laundry service, bar, lecture room, sauna, swimming pool, and exercise room. The atmosphere aboard the Kapitan Khlebnikov is relaxed and informal. Maritime regulations and weather conditions permitting, the bridge is open for visits, and passengers are encouraged to take advantage of this excellent venue for keeping a look out for wildlife and observing the ship’s operations. Dress is casual, as befits an expedition cruise.

    k a p i ta n k h l E b n i ko v

    CHART PROVIDED FOR REFERENCE ONLY; OK TO REBUILD IN InDESIGN

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    PROGRAM RATES DOUBLE SINGLE

    TRIPLE CABIN $0 $0 LEAST EXPENSIVE

    TWIN CABIN $0 $0

    SUITE $0 $0

    CORNER SUITE $0 $0 MOST EXPENSIVE

    Upper and lower berths, sofa bed, window. 135 sq. ft.

    Lower berth, sofa bed, window. 135 sq. ft.

    Double bed, separate sitting room, TV/VCR/DVD-CD player, two windows. 285 sq. ft.

    Double bed, sofa bed, separate sitting room, refrigerator, TV/VCR/DVD-CD player,four windows. 285 sq. ft.

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    pROGRAm RATES per personTriple Double Single

    Triple Cabin $14,495 — —

    Twin Cabin — $17,995 $27,095

    Suite — $20,995 —

    Corner Suite — $22,495 —InCluDED Two nights at the Hotel Captain Cook in Anchorage and ten nights aboard the Kapitan Khlebnikov • Meals as indicated in the itinerary • Welcome reception and farewell dinner including alcohol and wine • Comprehensive educational program by study leaders, moderator, and onboard expedition team • All Zodiac/shore excursions and group helicopter activities throughout the voyage • Expedition parka • Charter flights between Anchorage and Anadyr • Transfers between the airport and hotel in Anchorage • on-tour transfers and baggage handling • Airport, hotel, and departure taxes • Gratuities to guides, porters, and ship’s crew • Complete packet of pre-departure information including suggested reading list and luggage tags • Emergency evacuation insurance up to $100,000 (for citizens and residents of the U.S. and Canada)

    a i r fa r E Round-trip airfare between your hometown and Anchorage is not included in the program rates. our tour operator is happy to assist you in making all of your air travel arrangements for this tour. p o t E n t i a l f u E l s u r c h a r g E Every effort is made to keep program costs as low as possible, and rates do not include allowances to cover possible increases in fuel costs. Please be aware that the volatile nature of oil prices may make it necessary to assess a fuel surcharge. We appreciate your understanding.

    pa s s E n g E r s a l i g h t i n g f r o m t h E s h i p ’ s h E l i co p t E r

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  • TERmS & COnDITIOnS

    n o t i n c l u d E d U.S. domestic airfare • Passport and visa fees • Immunization costs • Airport security fees imposed by the government or

    airline • Meals and beverages, including alcohol and wine, not specified as

    included • Baggage and cancellation insurance • Any possible helicopter

    flying time in excess of that offered for the group (to be charged at an hourly

    rate announced onboard) • Personal items such as laundry, telephone, fax,

    and email charges, gratuities for non-group services, and other items not

    specified as included

    r E s E r v at i o n s & pay m E n t s A deposit of $2,000 per person is required to confirm all reservations. Please make your deposit check payable to High

    Country Passage and send it, with your completed reservation form, to Smith

    Travel, AASC, 33 Elm Street, Northampton, MA 01063. If you prefer, you may

    fax the form to Smith at 1-413-585-2015, or call 1-800-225-2029 to charge your

    MasterCard or vISA. Final payment is due by March 10, 2009, 120 days prior

    to departure. All tour prices and airfares quoted in this brochure are based

    on tariffs, costs, and exchange rates of the United States dollar that were in

    effect at the time of publication. Consequently, prices herein are subject to

    change. due to fluctuations in oil prices, a fuel surcharge may be added to your tour fee. Details and costs will be advised prior to your departure. High Country Passage reserves the right to accept or decline any person as a

    participant at any time.

    c a n c E l l at i o n s & r E f u n d s Deposits are fully refundable if a written notice of cancellation is received by Smith Travel within 30 days of receipt

    of deposit; after that, they are 100% nonrefundable. Cancellations after final

    payment: 100% penalty. Cancellation of program by High Country Passage

    will result in full refund except for airline cancellation penalties incurred

    by purchasing non-refundable air tickets. Refunds cannot be made to

    passengers who do not complete the tour for any reason at all. High Country

    Passage reserves the right, without penalty, to require any participant to

    withdraw from a tour at any time at his/her own expense, when such action

    is determined by tour staff to be in the best interest of the health, safety, or

    general welfare of the tour group or the individual participant subject only

    to the requirement that the recoverable portion of the total amount paid

    that corresponds to the cost of unused services and accommodations to be

    refunded, if any.

    i n s u r a n c E For your protection, cancellation/interruption insurance is strongly recommended. Information about insurance will be sent to you by

    Smith Travel.

    r E s p o n s i b i l i t y The Alumnae Association of Smith College (AASC) is the sponsor of this tour. As the sponsor, AASC has engaged independent tour

    operators to arrange the tours. Because the AASC does not own, operate,

    manage, or control, and is not in a partnership or joint venture with either

    the tour operators or with the various independent companies and persons

    with which or whom the tour operator has arranged to supply services to

    the tour, the AASC and its officers, directors, trustees, agents, servants,

    employees, affiliates, and assigns are not liable for any negligent or willful

    acts or omissions of the tour operator or the various suppliers, including

    any acts or omissions on their part that cause, without limitations, injury,

    death, theft, damage to or loss of property, delay, inconvenience, or the

    cancellation, substitution, overbooking or downgrading of accommodations,

    transportation, or other services. Additional terms and conditions may apply

    to our trip and will be sent to you with your registration acknowledgement,

    which you must sign and return to Smith.

    Printed on recycled paper • CST #2070901-40

    ARCTIC ODYSSEYA SYmpOSIum On GlObAl wARmInG & ClImATE ChAnGE

    AbOARD ThE Kapitan KhlebniKov • JulY 8–20, 2009

    Please mail your completed reservation form and deposit to Smith Travel, AASC, 33 Elm Street, Northampton, MA 01063. or fax it to 413-585-2015. For more information, please call Liz Bigwood at Smith Travel, 800-225-2029.

    COnTACT InfORmATIOn (please print)

    ________________________________________ ________________________________________NAME 1 (AS ON PASSPORT) NAME 2 (AS ON PASSPORT)

    _______________________________________________ _______________ ______ __________ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP

    _____________________________ _________________________ _________________________PHONE (HOME) (WORK) (CELL)

    ________________________________________ ________________________________________FAX EMAIL

    pAYmEnT❑ Enclosed is my check for $ __________ ($2,000 per person), made payable to High Country Passage for ______ space(s) on the Arctic odyssey program. or❑ Please charge my deposit of $ __________ ($2,000 per person) to the following credit card: ❑ vISA ❑ MasterCard ❑ American Express

    ______________________________________________________________ __________________CARD NO. EXP. DATE (MM/DD/YY)

    ________________________________ _____________________________ __________________CARDHOLDER SIGNATURE NAME (AS ON CARD) DATE (MM/DD/YY)

    ACCOmmODATIOnSCabin category preference (refer to deck plan): ________________________ ________________________ 1ST CHOICE 2ND CHOICE

    Bed preference (not guaranteed): ❑ one bed ❑ Two beds

    SInGlE ApplICAnTS OnlY❑ I prefer single accommodations.❑ I plan to share accommodations with: ___________________________________________________ .❑ Please arrange a share for me (not guaranteed). I am a ❑ smoker ❑ non-smoker. I understand that if a roommate is not found by the final payment deadline of March 10, 2009, I will pay the single rate.

    ACCEpTAnCE Of TERmSI/We have read the program information and the Terms and Conditions in this brochure and agree to the terms as stated therein.

    ______________________________________________________________ __________________SIGNATURE DATE

    ______________________________________________________________ __________________SIGNATURE DATE

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    t o a c k n o W l E d g E o u r r E s p o n s i b i l i t y for the health of the planet, our tour operator, High Country Passage, will make a donation to offset the carbon emissions associated with this trip. Participants are also encouraged to make individual donations to www.cleanair-coolplanet.org.

  • Prsrt Std

    U.S. Postage

    PAIDPermit No. 89

    San Ramon, CASmith Travel • 33 Elm Street • Northampton, MA 01063

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    ARCTIC ODYSSEY

    A SYmpOSIum On GlObAl wARmInG &

    ClImATE ChAnGE

    AbOARD ThE Kapitan KhlebniKov

    JulY 8–20, 2009

    mODERATED bY

    SAm DOnAlDSOn