a peer review on herbal cosmetics and skin care

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405

Sahu et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

A PEER REVIEW ON HERBAL COSMETICS AND SKIN CARE

Prerana Sahu1*

and Dr. Rajesh Kumar Nema

2

1Rungta Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Bhilai.

2Rungta Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Bhilai.

ABSTRACT

Herbal cosmetic also known as “natural cosmetics”. With the

beginning of the civilization, mankind had the magnetic dip towards

impressing others with their looks. At the time, there were no fancy

fairness creams or any cosmetic surgeries. The only thing they had was

the knowledge of nature, compiled in the Ayurveda. With the science

of Ayurveda, several herbs and floras were used to make ayurvedic

cosmetics that really worked. Ayurvedic cosmetics not only beautified

the skin but acted as the shield against any kind of external affects for

the body. Ayurvedic cosmetics also known as the herbal cosmetics

have the same estimable assets in the modern era as well. There is a

wide gamut of the herbal cosmetics that are manufactured and commonly used for daily

purposes. Herbal cosmetics like herbal face wash, herbal conditioner, herbal soaps, herbal

shampoo, and many more are highly acclaimed by the masses. The best thing of the herbal

cosmetics is that it is purely made by the herbs and shrubs. The natural content in the herbs

does not have any side effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with nutrients and

other useful minerals. Herbal cosmetics are comprised of floras like ashwagandha, sandal

(chandan), saffron (kesar) and many more that is augmented with healthy nutrient sand all the

other necessary components.

KEYWORDS: Herbal cosmetics; Dandruff, Skin care; Acne.

1. INTRODUCTION

The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the

power, arrange and skill in decorating. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative

throughout the history of man as they developed. The man in prehistoric times 3000 BC used

colours for decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt and also the man survived

WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES

SJIF Impact Factor 7.632

Volume 10, Issue 7, 405-420 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357

*Corresponding Author

Prerana Sahu

Rungta Institute of

Pharmaceutical Sciences,

Bhilai.

Article Received on

22 April 2021,

Revised on 12 May 2021,

Accepted on 02 June 2021

DOI: 10.20959/wjpps20217-19256


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attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to provoke

fear in an enemy.[1]

The term Cosmeceuticals was first used by Raymond Reed founding

member of US Society of Cosmetics Chemist in 1961. He actually used the word to brief the

active and science-based cosmetics. The above term was further used by Dr. Albert Kligman

in the year 1984 to refer the substances that have both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance health and beauty

through ingredients that influence the skin's biological texture and function.[2]

The cosmetics,

according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed,

poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or

any part for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. The

increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market.

The Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and essential oils used in cosmetics must not

claim to penetrate beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any therapeutic

effect.[3]

Herbal cosmetics is defined as the beauty products, which possess desirable physiological

activities, such as skin healing, smoothening, appearance, enhancing and conditioning

properties with the help of herbal ingredients. These are the cosmetics which are prepared

using plant products having cosmetic actions. Recently the use of botanicals in cosmetics has

increased mainly due to the mild action and non-toxic nature. In cosmetics both natural and

phyto-ingredients are used.[4]

Natural products include oils, extracts, secretions etc. Phyto-

ingredients include pure constituents obtained by various processes. Herbal cosmetics are

formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or

more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only. They are purely

made of herbs and shrubs.[5]

The natural content in the herbs does not have any reactions on

the human body; rather enhance the body with, supplements and other helpful minerals.

Herbal cosmetics are comprised of floras like saffron (kesar), ashwagandha, sandal (chandan)

and numerous increasingly that is expanded with healthy nutrients and all the various

essential components. It is evaluated that roughly 400 flavours are utilized far and wide,

although only about 70 spices are officially recognized. Herbs have variety of function such

as food flavourings, cosmetics and medicine in the forms of tea, tablet, capsule, tincture,

cream, syrup and liquid.[6]


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Herbal medicines include herbs, herbal materials, herbal preparations and finished herbal

products. In some countries herbal medicines may contain, by tradition, natural organic or

inorganic active ingredients that are not of plant origin (e.g. animal and mineral materials).

Herbs include crude plant material, such as leaves, flowers, fruit, seeds, stems, wood, bark,

roots, rhizomes or other plant parts, which may be entire, fragmented or powdered. Herbal

materials include, in addition to herbs, fresh juices, gums, fixed oils, essential oils, resins and

dry powders of herbs.[7]

In some countries, these materials may be processed by various local

procedures, such as steaming, roasting or stir-baking with honey, alcoholic beverages or other

materials. Herbal preparations are the basis for finished herbal, products and may include

comminute or powdered herbal materials, or extracts, tinctures and fatty oils of herbal

materials. They are produced by extraction, fractionation, purification, concentration, or other

physical or biological processes. They also include preparations made by steeping or heating

herbal materials in alcoholic beverages and/or honey, or in other materials. Finished herbal

products consist of herbal preparations made from one or more herbs. If more than one herb

is used, the term “mixture herbal product” can also be used.[8]

Finished herbal products and

mixture herbal products may contain excipients in addition to the active ingredients.

However, finished products or mixture herbal products to which chemically defined active

substances have been added, including synthetic compounds and/or isolated constituents from

herbal materials, are not considered to be herbal.[9]

Herbs are considered to be food rather than medicine because they're complete, all-natural

and pure, as nature intended. When herbs are taken, the body starts to get cleansed, it gets

purifying itself. Unlike chemically synthesized, highly concentrated drugs that may produce

many side effects, herbs can effectively realign the body's defence. Herbs do not produce

instant cures, but rather offer a way to put the body in proper tune with nature for thousands

of years, humans have used herbs. Herbs have been used in the following ways - In cooking

for flavouring foods, as perfumes, as disinfectants, to protect us against germs, as medicines

to heal when we are sick.[10]

1.1 Advantages of Herbal cosmetics[11]

i. They do not provoke allergic reactions and do not have negative side effects.

ii. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.

iii. With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic cosmetics.

iv. Easily available and found in large variety and quantity.


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v. Extracts of plants decreases the bulk property of cosmetics and gives appropriate

pharmacological effects.

vi. Easy to manufacture and cheap in cost.

1.2 Disadvantages of Herbal cosmetic[12]

i. They are difficult to hide taste and odour.

ii. No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of

herbal cosmetics.

1.3 Categories of Herbal cosmetics[13]

The herbal cosmetics can be grouped into following categories:

1. For enhancing the appearance of the facial skin

2. For hair growth and care

3. For skin care (acne, pimples, sustaining)

4. Shampoos, soap, powders and perfumery etc

5. Miscellaneous products

1.4 Herbal cosmetics can be classified on the basis of[14]

I. Dosage form

II. Part of the body to be applied

I. Dosage form[15]

a. Emulsion: Cold cream, vanishing cream

b. Powders: Face powder, Talcum powder, Tooth powder

c. Cakes: Rouge compacts, makeup cake

d. Oils: Hair oils

e. Mucilage: Hand lotion

f. Jellies: Hand jelly, wave set jelly, brilliantine jelly

g. Suspension: Cosmetic stockings

h. Paste: Tooth paste, deodorant paste

i. Soaps: Shampoo soap, shaving soap, toilet soap

II. Parts of the body to be applied at[16]

a. Herbal cosmetics for skin: Powders, Creams, Lotions, Deodorants, Bath and cleansing

products, Makeup preparations and suntan preparations


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b. Herbal Cosmetics for hairs: Shampoos, Tonics, Hair dressing, Hair waving preparations,

Beard softeners, Shaving media, Depilatories

Table 1.1: List of plants with cosmetic application.[17]

Scientific Name Common

Name

Part

Uses Uses

Avena sativa (Gramineae) Oat Fruit Skin tonic

Acarus calamus (Araceae) Sweet flag Rhizome Dusting powder, skin lotion

Centela aceatica (Apiaceae) Brahmi Plant Wound healing, reduce

stretch mark

Mesua ferrea (Guttiferae) Cobras saffron Flower Astringent

Calendula officinalis

(Compositae) Marigold Flower

Antiseptic cream, Anti-

inflammatory

Panax gingseng (Araliaceae) Gingseng Root Stimulant blood flow to skin

Zingiber zerumbet

(Zingiberaceae) Zamabad Rhizome Skin care

Table 1.2: Skin Types and their Care.[18]

Skin Type Features Herbal Plants Essential Oils

Normal

Has even tone, soft,

smooth texture, no visible

pores or blemishes and no

greasy patches or flaky

areas

Pomegranate leaves

juice, Herbal face

pack, Gingili oil

Chamomile, Fennel,

Geranium, Lavender,

Rose, Sandal wood,

Patchouli

Dry

Low level of sebum and

prone to sensitivity. Has a

parched look, feels tight.

Chapping and cracking are

signs of extremely dry,

dehydrated skin.

Aloe vera, Olive oil,

Calendula Comfrey

Chamomile, Fennel,

Geranium, Lavender,

Lemon rose,

Sandalwood

Patchouli, Almond,

Avacado

Oily

Shiny, thick and dull

coloured chronically oily

skin has coarse pores and

pimples and other

embarrassing blemishes.

Prone to black heads

Alovera, Burdock

root chamomile

horsetail, Oat starw,

Thyme, Lavender,

Lemon Grass,

Liquorice, Rose

Buds, Witch Hazel

Bergamot, Cypress

Frankincense

Geranium, Juniper,

Lavender, Lemon,

Sage Evening

Primrose

Combination

Some parts of your face are

dry or flaky, while the

center part of your face,

nose, chin and forehead

(called the T-zone) is oily.

Witch Hazel,

Menthol, Aloe vera,

Turmeric, Wheat

Germ, Sweet Flag

Citrus oils, Jasmine

Oil, Sandal wood oil


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Table 1.3: Special Skin Problems and Herbal Remedies.[19]

S.No. Skin Problem Features Remedies

1 Chapped skin Rough texture which sometimes

causes the skin to crack

Application of oils of Olive oil or mashed

avocado after bathing or massaging with

warm olive oil, mustard or coconut oil

half an hour before bathing.

2 Withered Skin Very tough texture, full of wrinkles Carrot juice along with a mixture of egg

white and honey.

3 Sallow skin No color look, skin becomes

lustureless and shows lack of vitality Inclusion of Vitamin B in diet.

4 Sensitive Skin

Sunburns and wind burns occur

easily. Skins become dry delicate

and prone to allergic reactions.

Use of essential oil of Chamomile,

Lavender Neroli, Rose and Sandal wood

oil.

5 Acne Pockets of infection that manifest as

red sores, boils and pimples. Usage of Red Sanda Wood Oil.

1.5 Indian Extracts for Herbal Cosmetics

Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem imes, when the damaging effects of food

processing and overmedication have assumed alarming proportions. They are now being

increasingly cosmetics, foods and teas, as well as alternative medicines. The growing interest

in herbs is a part of the movement towards change in life-styles. This movement is based on

the belief that the plants have a vast potential for their use as a curative medicine.[20]

1.5.1 Oat (Avena sativa)

It is a species of cereal grain grown for its seed, which is known by the same name (usually in

the plural, unlike other grains). Oats are not only consumed for nutritional purposes but are

also recognized as possessing healing and soothing properties. The gentle process used to

extract oat oil from the whole oat kernels ensures that the biological value remains unaltered.

Oat oil is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids and natural emollients. Oat oil is used in

many lotions, creams, facial oils, salves and balms since its properties add unique benefits.[21]

Fig 1.1: Avena Sativa.


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1.5.2 Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

Calendula officinalis is a plant known as pot marigold. It should not be confused with other

types of plants more commonly known as marigold, such as those in the genus Tagetes.[22]

A

number of ingredients used in cosmetics and personal care products are made from Calendula

officinalis, including an extract of the whole plant (Calendula officinalis Extract) the flowers,

flower extract and flower oil (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract, Calendula officinalis

Flower Oil) and the seed oil (Calendula officinalis Seed Oil). Of the Calendula-derived

ingredients, the flower extracts are the most commonly used in cosmetics and personal care

products.[23]

Fig. 1.2: Calendula officinalis.

1.5.3 Wild Cherry Bark (Prunus serotina Bark)

Wild cherry bark is the bark of Prunus serotina. Wild Cherry Bark has properties that makes

the hair smooth, silky, and adds body to the hair. The dried stem bark of Prunus serotina,

collected in autumn in North America. Used in lipsticks and cherry flavorings for food and

medicines. Also used as a sedative and expectorant medicinally.[24]

Fig. 1.3: Wild Cherry Bank.


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1.5.4 Chicory (Cichorium intybus)

Chicory, Cichorium intybus, is somewhat woody, perennial herbaceous plant usually with

bright blue flowers, rarely white or pink. It was believed that the plant could purify the blood

and liver, while others have relied on the herb for its power to cure passions of the heart.

Chicory continues to be a popular herbal remedy due to its healing effects on several

ailments25

. Chicory is taken internally for loss of appetite, jaundice, gallstones, gout and

rheumatism. In addition, the leaves of chicory may also be used as compresses to be applied

externally to ease skin inflammations and swellings. As a mild diuretic, it increases the

elimination of fluid from the body, leading to its use as a treatment for rheumatism and gout.

The root and the leaves are appetizer, cholagogue, depurative, digestive, diuretic,

hypoglycaemic, laxative and tonic. It favors blood circulation by making blood more fluid

and allowing it a better travel through vein and arteries.[26]

Fig. 1.4: Cichorium intybus.

1.5.5 Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum)

Holy basil, called Tulsi in India, is ubiquitous in Hindu tradition. Perhaps its role as a healing

herb was instrumental in its "sacred" implication.[27]

Fig. 1.5: Ocimum sanctum.


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1.5.6 Ghritkumar (Aloe vera)

It is a most ingenious mixture of an antibiotic, an astringent coagulating agent, a pain

inhibitor and a growth stimulator (also called a "wound hormone"), whose function is to

accelerate the healing of injured surfaces. It is used for pain relief and healing of

'hemorrhoids, applied externally and internally it‟s also used for sunburn, scratch and a

cleansing purge for the body or skin. It is an aid to growing new tissue and alleviating the

advance of skin cancer caused by the sun.[28]

Fig. 1.6: Ghritkumari.

1.5.7 Multani Mitts (Fullers Earth)

It is Mother Nature's own baby powder. Clay was one of the earliest substances to be used as

a beauty mask to draw oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth, gums and hair,

To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn, helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes

and dirt.[29]

Fig 1.7: Fullers earth.


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1.5.8 Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)

Matricaria chamomilla, known as scented mayweed or German chamomile (also spelled

camomile), is an annual plant of the composite family Asteraceae. Chamomile is also used

cosmetically, primarily to make a rinse for blonde hair and as a yellow dye for fabrics.[30]

Fig 1.8: Chamomile.

1.5.9 Aloe vera

With the traits that prevent aging and regenerate growth of cells this was used as an essential

component to keep oneself fit, protect the skin, prevents and heals skin irritations.[31]

1.6 Medicinal Herbs used in Cosmetics

The medicinal herb mentioned in ayurveda by experienced sages basically state that the

function of ayurvedic herbs is to purify blood and eliminate vitiated doshas (vata, pitta,

kapha) from the body as they are mainly responsible for skin disorders and other diseases.

Among the written information on ayurveda like in Charakh Samhita, the sage Charakh stated

numerous medicinal plants in Varnya Kashaya. The herbs mentioned can be used to obtain

glowing complexion.[32]

Various herbs for which description and usage can be found in

ayurvedic inscriptions are chandana, Nagkeshara, Padmak, Khus, Yashtimadhu, Manjistha,

Sariva, Payasya, Seta (shweta durva), Lata (shyama durva). There is also the mention of

various herbs from Kushthagna Mahakashaya that are effective curatives for skin disorders

are Khadira, Abhaya, Amalaki, Haridra, Bhallataka, Saptaparna, Aragvadha, Karavira,

Vidanga, Jati. Like the notifications of charakh and other sages, Sushrut said that Eladi Gana

contains: Ela, tagar, kusstha, jatamansi, tvak, dhmamaka, patra, nagkeshar, priyangu,

harenuka, vyaghranakha, shukti, stouneyaka, choraka, shriveshta, khus, goggol, sarjarasa,

turushka, kundaru, agaru, ushira, devdaru, keshara, and padmakeshara.[33]

All these herbs can

eliminate toxins from the body, clear the complexion that leads to a glow on the skin and

alleviates puritus, kusstha and boils.[34]


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Herbal products in cosmetics or herb in cosmetics can also be referred as botanical origin

products in cosmetics. According to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 cosmetics may be

defined as, any substance intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to

human being for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness.[35]

Cosmeceuticals are the

cosmetic products which contain biologically active principles or ingredients of plant origin

having effect on user or they are combination product of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals

intended to enhance the health and beauty of skin. Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty

products which possess desirable physiological activity such as healing, smoothing

appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties because of herbal ingredient.[36]

1.6 DRY SKIN TREATMENT

1.6.1 Coconut oil

Coconut oil comes from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera, family

Arecaceae. The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76°F) and thus it can be used

easily in both liquid and solid forms and is often used in cooking and baking37

. Coconut oil is

excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener. A study shows that extra virgin coconut oil is

effective and safe when used as a moisturizer, with absence of adverse reactions. A study

found that coconut oil helped prevent protein loss from the wet combing of hair when used

for fourteen hours.[38]

1.6.2 Sunflower Oil

It is the non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds obtained from Helianthus annuus,

family Asteraceae. Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes. In

cosmetics, it has smoothing properties and is considered noncomedogenic.[39]

1.6.3 Aloe

A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has fleshy spiny-toothed leaves and red or

yellow flowers 60. It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals moisturizes and

softens skin. Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to easily extract the soothing gel.[40]

1.7 ANTI-AGING TREATMENT

1.7.1 Golden Root

Rhodiola rosea (Roseroot, Aaron's rod), is a plant in the Crassulaceae family that grows in

cold regions of the world. The Rhodiola root has long been used in the traditional medical


416


systems in Europe and Asia to increase an organism‟s resistance to physicalstress, currently;

it is widely thought to have antioxidative properties.[41]

1.7.2 Carrot

It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae. It is a valuable herb

since ages as it is rich natural source of Vitamin A along with other essential vitamins. Carrot

seed oil is indicated for anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating. As it promotes the

formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles. It acts as Natural toner and rejuvenator

for the skin.[42]

1.7.8 Ginkgo

Ginkgo comes from the ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs to family Ginkgoaceae, which

grows to a huge size. It is best known, as a circulatory tonic, in particular for strengthening

the tiny little capillaries to all the organs, but especially to the brain.[43]

The capillaries

become more flexible and as a result more oxygen is delivered to the brain and eyes (to

protect against degenerative eye diseases like macular degeneration), so important as we age.

Ginkgo also protects the nervous system and fights oxidation.[44]

1.8 Dandruff Treatment

Ayurved has numerous natural medications wherein the most common herbs include Neem,

Kapoor (naphthalene), and Henna, Hirda, Behada, and Amalaki, Magic nut, Bringaraj,

Rosary Pea, Sweet Flag, Cashmere tree and Mando.[45]

1.8.1 Henna

Henna comes from the plant, Lawsonia inermis family Lythraceae, which contain a dye

molecule called Lawsone, which when processed becomes Henna powder. Henna has a

natural affinity with the proteins in our hair, making it able to “stain” the colour onto the hair

shaft.[46]

1.9 SKIN PROTECTION

1.9.1 Green Tea

Green tea is tea made solely with the leaves of Camellia sinensis belonging to family

Theaceae .Whether applied topically or consumed as a beverage or dietary supplement, green

tea is a premiere skin protectant. It protects against direct damage to the cell and moderates

inflammation, according to research from the Department of Dermatology, Columbia


417


University, New York. Studies suggest that the catechins in green tea are some 20 times

stronger in their antioxidant powers than even vitamin E. Men, women and children need to

position this super shield on their side against the ravaging effects of the sun.[47]

1.9.2 Turmeric

Turmeric, Curcuma longa is a rhizomatous herbacessential oilsus perennial plant of the

ginger family Zingiberaceae Turmeric is used in many celebrations of Hindus 70. Especially

in Hindu wedding brides would rub with turmeric on their bodies for glowing look. New born

babies also rubbed with turmeric on their forehead for good luck. Traditionally women rub

turmeric on their cheeks to produce a natural golden glow.[48]

1.10 Hair Care

1.10.1 Amla

Amla is obtained from the plant Emblica Officinalis, Family Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in

vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides

nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair. Hibiscus consists of calcium, phosphorus,

iron, vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair growth and

prevents premature graying of hair.[49]

1.10.2 Almond Oil

The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond oil basically contains about 78%

of this fat. This oil contains very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty

acids. It proves to be very nourishing and softens and strengthens the hair. The almond oil

also proves to be a very good cleansing agent. Almond oil has been used for many centuries,

even before it's spread as a commercial agro-product.[50]

2. CONCLUSION

So, the herbal cosmetics are the most important part of the today‟s modern life. As they are

used for the beautifications purpose mainly, their demand increases vigorously. Herbal

Cosmetics having certain advantages over there synthetic cosmetics as follows:

They are cheap in cost.

They are easily available in the market.

They are least toxic and also having least or no adverse effects.

So, from all the study of Herbal Cosmetics we can conclude that “The Herbal Cosmetics are

the most significant alternative for the synthetic cosmetics”.[51]]


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a peer review on herbal cosmetics and skin care

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