a new napa cuisine by christopher kostow - recipes and excerpt

8/11/2019 A New Napa Cuisine by Christopher Kostow - Recipes and Excerpt

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A Journey to Napa ....... PAGE CHARLIE ....... PAGE

The Growers ....... PAGE

The Artisans ....... PAGE THE NEW LUXURY ....... PAGE

The Wilds ....... PAGE HISTORY AS INSPIRATION ....... PAGE

Materia Prima ....... PAGE A NEW NAPA CUISINE ....... PAGE

TECHNIQUES ....... PAGE

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ....... PAGE

INDEX ....... PAGE

RECIPE INDEX ....... PAGE


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7 A JOURNEY TO NAPA


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6/18

77 THE GROWERS

continued

FOR THE SNAPPER PREPARATION:

Put the reserved scales in a container and s oak in cold water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, pour the

salt into a container and bury the s napper llet in it. Place in the refrigerator for 35 minutes. Rinse

the snapper under ice-cold running water to remove the excess salt and pat dry on paper towels.

Cut the snapper into 4 equal pieces, about 90 grams (3 ounces) each. Store in an airtight container set

over ice in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Pour the oil into a small rondeau and heat to 325F (165C). Drain the scales and pat them almost,

but not completely, dry on paper towels. Add the scales to the hot oil and fry for about 2 minutes.

Transfer to paper towels to drain. Line a dehydrator tray with paper towels, spread the fried scales out

evenly and dehydrate at 125F (52C) for at least 2 hours, until the scales are dry and crispy.

FOR THE SNAPPER BROTH:

Rinse the snapper frames under cold running water for 2 minutes. Pat dry on paper towels and reserve.

In a large bowl or other container, dissolve the ascorbic acid in the water. Working with 1 artichoke

at a time, use a paring knife to remove and discard the green leaves by peeling them away from the

artichoke, exposing the white leaves underneath. Remove the tips of the white leaves and, using a veg-

etable peeler, peel away the green skin from the stem. Cut the artichoke in half lengthwise and imme-

diately submerge in the acidulated water. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.

Place a stockpot over medium heat, add the olive oil and anchovies, and sweat for about 2 min-

utes, until fragrant. Remove the artichokes from the acidulated water, and reserve the water. Add the

artichokes, celery, onion, and green garlic and sweat for 10 minutes longer, until the vegetables are

translucent. Pour in the fumet and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath. When the broth is ready, strain through a very ne cloth lter into a

bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath to cool the broth. Season with kosher salt.

FOR THE ARTICHOKES:

Trim the artichokes as you did for the broth, adding them to the same acidulated water. Transfer a

small amount of the acidulated water to a separate container. Scoop out 4 artichoke halves from the

large container and, using a mandoline, shave them into the small container. Refrigerate the small

container of artichokes for later use.

Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large rondeau over low heat. Add the celery, onion, green garlic,

peppercorns, and bay leaves and sweat for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables are translucent.

Increase the heat to high, add the artichokes and wine and cook until the wine has reduced by half. Add

the water and bring to simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cover the surface with a piece of parchment

paper. Cook for 15 minutes, until the artichokes are tender. To check for doneness, cut o a piece of the

stem; it should cut easily while s till maintaining its shape. Remove from the heat.

SERVES

SNAPPER PREPARATION

390 grams | 14 ounces red snapper fillet,

scales removed and reserved

800 grams | 2 3/4cups kosher salt

600 grams | 2 3/4cups grapeseed oil

SNAPPER BROTH

200 grams | 7 ounces snapper frames

13 grams | 1 tablespoon ascorbic acid

3.8 kilograms | 4 quarts water

90 grams | 3.3 ounces baby artichokes30 grams | 2 tablespoons plus 3/4teaspoon

extra virgin olive oil

28 grams | 1 ounce anchovy fillets

80 grams | 3/4cup celery, in 1-inch

(2.5-centimeter) pieces

250 grams | 1 1/2cups yellow onion, in 1-inch


100 grams | 1 cup green garlic, in 1-inch


3.8 kilograms | 4 quarts fish fumet

(page 285)

kosher salt

ARTICHOKE PREPARATION

800 grams | 1.8 pounds baby artichokes

13 grams | 1 tablespoon ascorbic acid

30 grams | 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

40 grams | 1/3cup celery, in 1-inch


125 grams | 3/4cup yellow onion, in quarters

25 grams | 1/4cup green garlic, in halves

4 grams | 1 3/4teaspoons white peppercorns

1 gram | 1 teaspoon fresh bay leaves

350 grams | 1 1/2cups dry white wine

2 kilograms | about 8 cups water

10 grams | 2 teaspoons Twin Sisters olive oil

kosher salt

Tiny, perfect artichokes appear in the Napa Valley Reserve garden in early spr ing. We prepare

them in the style of barigouleand serve them with red snapper. The scales are removed from the

snapper, pued, and served as a garnish along with wild and cultivated greens.

snapper artichoke tiny greens


7/18

THE GROWERS 78

snapper artichoke tiny greens continued

Prepare an ice bath. Remove 300 grams (10.5 ounces) of the artichokes from the liquid and transfer

to a blender. Strain a small amount of the cooking liquid into a small pitcher. Turn the blender on to

low speed to start mixing the artichokes, adding a small amount of the cooking liquid at a time until

the artichokes become a smooth puree. Increase the speed to high and mix for 1 minute. Turn down

the speed to low and slowly add the Twin Sisters olive oil, being careful not to force the puree out of

emulsication. Strain the puree through a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath to

cool the puree. Season with kosher s alt and transfer to a s queeze bottle. Store in the refrigerator until

ready to serve.

Remove the remaining artichokes from the cooking liquid, cut each half into 3 wedges, and place

in a bowl. Strain the cooking liquid through a very ne cloth lter and combine it with the artichoke

wedges. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

TO SERVE:

Pour about 480 grams (2 cups) of the snapper broth into a shallow saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons of

Twin Sisters olive oil and heat over low heat to 120F (49C). Add the snapper portions and poach for

12 minutes, until the snapper is rm but still stark white. Meanwhile, dress the shaved artichokes in a

small amount of Twin Sisters o live oil and Maldon salt.

Place a few dots of the artichoke puree on each of 4 plates, then put 2 pieces of the braised arti-

choke on each plate. When the snapper is cooked, lay it on top of the artichoke puree. Lay 5 pieces of

the shaved artichoke on each plate. Garnish with the wild garlic, tiny fennel, tiny celery, kale leaves,

and wild chervil.

Twin Sisters olive oil

Maldon sea salt

wild garlic with roots intact

tiny fennel with roots intact

tiny celery leaves

Tuscan kale leaves

wild chervil pluches


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33 THE GROWERS


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THE GROWERS 32


11/18


12/18

149 THE ARTISANS

continued

FOR THE CHERRY VINEGAR:

Combine the cherries and vinegar in a vacuum bag and seal on high. Macerate in the refrigerator for

36 hours, then strain the cherries from the vinegar, discarding them. Transfer the vinegar to a squeeze

bottle and refrigerate until ready to use.

FOR THE CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD:

Place the chocolate in the freezer for at least 30 minutes while you prepare the dough. Using a tamis,

sift together the our, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt into a metal bowl. In the bowl of a stand

mixer tted with a paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar. Mix on medium speed until the

sugar is evenly dispersed throughout the butter. Put the frozen chocolate into a food processor and

mix until pulverized. Add the chocolate powder to the stand mixer and mix on low speed until fully

incorporated, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed to ensure an even mixture. Mix

in the egg yolk and then add the our mixture in three batches, mixing for about 20 seconds total, just

to incorporate. Remove the dough from the mixer, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 325F (165C). Roll the chilled dough into a log and place it at one end of a piece

of parchment paper. Place another piece of parchment paper on top of the dough and press lightly to

atten. Run through a dough sheeter set to a thickness of about 1/32inch (1 millimeter). Remove the

dough from the parchment, then lay it on a sheet pan and bake for 12 minutes, until the shortbread is

dry and crispy. Let cool to room temperature for 3 hours.

Break the shortbread into manageable pieces and put them into a f ood processor. Mix to a ne

crumb. Transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature until needed.

FOR THE CHOCOLATE TART SHELLS:

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over gently simmering water. Heat until the chocolate registers

108F (42C). Using a rubber spatula, slowly stir in the feuilletine and shortbread crumbs. Spread the

chocolate mixture on a sheet of parchment paper, top with a second parchment sheet, and then pass

through a dough sheeter set to a thickness of between 1/8inch and 1/4inch (4 millimeters). Using a ring

cutter 3 inches (7.5 centimeters) in diameter, cut out circles from the chocolate sheet. Using a small

bowl (about 3 inches/8 centimeters in diameter) and a spoon, mold the chocolate circle around the

bowl to mimic the shape, then place in the freezer. Repeat to make 4 tart shells. Hold in the freezer for

at least 2 hours before use.

SERVES

CHERRY VINEGAR

300 grams | 10.5 ounces Bing cherries

1 kilogram | about 4 cups Champagne vinegar

CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD

100 grams | 3.5 ounces dark chocolate

(72 percent cacao)

125 grams | 1 cup all-purpose flour

30 grams | 1/3cup cocoa powder

1 gram | 1/4teaspoon baking powder

4 grams | 3/4teaspoon kosher salt

115 grams | 1/2cup unsalted butter

132 grams | 2/3cup sugar

20 grams | about 1 egg yolk

CHOCOLATE TART SHELLS


(72 percent cacao)

80 grams | 2.8 ounces feuilletine

100 grams | 3.5 ounces chocolate shortbread

crumb (recipe above)

We use a series of William and Nikkis earth bowls (see page 104) to mimic the equally rustic edges

of this free-form tart made with chocolate, shortbread, and feuilletine.The pickled cherry dipping

dots and salted cherry leaves provide some acidity that nicely prevents the dish from becoming

a sugar bomb.

chocolate cherry tart


13/18

THE ARTISANS 150

chocolate cherry tart continued

FOR THE CHERRY PTE DE FRUIT:

Spray a half sheet pan with nonstick cooking spray, then dust lightly with sugar. Combine the apple

pectin and a small portion of the sugar in a small bowl and mix to disperse the pectin evenly. Put the

remaining sugar, the cherry puree, and the glucose in a saucepan and place over medium heat. Heat,

stirring constantly, to 225F (107C), then immediately add the citric acid and pour the liquid into the

prepared sheet pan. Allow the liquid to spread out into a thin layer, then dust additional sugar over the

top. Hold at room temperature for 2 hours, until cool and set.

Using a ring cutter 1/4inch (about 6 millimeters) in diameter, punch out small circles from the

sheet. Store in an airtight container with silica gel packets at room temperature.

FOR THE DARK CHOCOLATE CRMEUX:

Prepare an ice bath. Pour the cream into a saucepan and heat over low heat to 120F (49C). Combine

the chocolate and gellan base in a blender, add the hot cream, and mix on high for 3 minutes, until

smooth. Strain through a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath to cool the mixture.

Transfer to a piping bag tted with a small round tip and refrigerate.

FOR THE GRILLED CHERRY LEAVES:

Prepare a re in a wood-burning oven. When the re is at about 600F (315C), arrange the cherry

leaves on the grate and grill for about 10 seconds, until slightly charred. Flip and char the opposite side

for 5 seconds longer. Remove from the oven and arrange on a dehydrator tray lined with paper towels.

Dehydrate at 125F (52C) for 1 hour before use.

FOR THE DRIED CHERRY PUREE:

Put the cherries in a saucepan, add cold water just to cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Turn down the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, until the cherries are tender. Meanwhile, pre-

pare an ice bath. Transfer the cherries and water to a blender and mix on high speed for 3 minutes,

until smooth. Strain through a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath and stir the puree

until cool. Transfer to a squeeze bottle and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.

FOR THE SWEETENED CRME FRACHE:

Prepare an ice bath. Combine the crme frache, sugar, and gellan base in a blender and mix on

medium speed for 2 minutes, until thick and smooth. Do not mix longer, as you do not want to over -

heat the mixture. Strain though a chinois into a bowl, then nest the bowl in the ice bath and stir the

puree to cool. Season lightly with kosher salt, transfer to a squeeze bottle, and store in the refrigerator

until needed.

FOR THE ROASTED BING CHERRIES:

Preheat the oven to 280F (140C). Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper. Combine the cherries,

oil, sugar, and salt in a metal bowl and toss to coat the cherries evenly. Spread the cherries on the pre -

pared sheet pan. Bake for 6 minutes, just until the cherries begin to soften. Let cool at room tempera -

ture, then hold in an airtight container at room temperature.

CHERRY PTE DE FRUIT

400 grams | 2 cups sugar, plus more

for dusting

10 grams | about 2 teaspoons powdered

apple pectin

420 grams | 1 3/4cups Bing cherry puree

(page 287)

84 grams | 2/3cup powdered glucose

6.5 grams | 1 1/4teaspoons citric acid

DARK CHOCOLATE CRMEUX

400 grams | 1 2/3cups heavy cream


(72 percent cacao)

30 grams | 1 ounce gellan base (page 285)

GRILLED CHERRY LEAVES

4 | salted cherry leaves

DRIED CHERRY PUREE

400 grams | about 14 ounces dried

tart cherries

SWEETENED CRME FRACHE

400 grams | 1 3/4cups crme frache

(page 283)

50 grams | 1/4cup sugar

200 grams | 7 ounces gellan base (page 285)

kosher salt

ROASTED BING CHERRIES

6 | Bing cherries, halved and pitted

10 grams | 21

/4teaspoons Twin Sistersolive oil

12 grams | 1 tablespoon sugar

kosher salt


14/18

151 THE ARTISANS

FOR THE PICKLED CHERRY SORBET DIPPING DOTS:

Combine the cherry puree and cherry vinegar in a bowl. Using a refractometer, measure the Brix

level naturally occurring in the puree. Adjust the level by adding simple syrup to reach 25 to

27 Brix. Transfer the sorbet base to a large squeeze bottle. Carefully put the liquid nitrogen into a

foam-insulated container (excessive changes in temperature or agitation of the liquid nitrogen may

cause it to become volatile). Put a second foam-insulated container next to the rst one and rest

a strainer over the top. Turn the squeeze bottle upside down over the liquid nitrogen and squeeze

gently to make dots, moving in a circular pattern so as not to drop the dots in the same place twice.

Squeeze about one-fourth of the contents of the bottle, then lightly agitate the sorbet dots using a

metal spatula or other long utensil to ensure they dont adhere to the bottom and sides of the con -

tainer. Pour the contents of the rst container through the strainer resting on the second container.

Break up any clusters, then store the dots in a dry plastic container in the freezer until ready to use.

Repeat until all of the sorbet base has been formed into dots.

TO SERVE:

Place the chocolate tart shells on 4 round plates. Distribute dots of the dark chocolate crmeux, sweet -

ened crme frache, and dried cherry puree on the shells. Place 3 roasted cherry halves around the

dots in each shell and then scatter a few pieces of the cherry pte de fruit around the dots. Reintroduce

the sorbet dipping dots into liquid nitrogen for 10 seconds and, using a slotted spoon, place them

in a pile in the center of the shell. (To discard the liquid nitrogen, carefully pour it back into its original

container.) Break up the cherry leaves and place a few pieces on top of the dots.

PICKLED CHERRY SORBET DIPPING DOTS

600 grams | 2 2/3cups Bing cherry puree

(page 287)

60 grams | 1/4cup cherry vinegar

(page 149)

simple syrup

liquid nitrogen


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217 MATERIA PRIMA


16/18

219 MATERIA PRIMA


17/18

Some of the recipes in this book include raw eggs, meat, or sh. When these foods are

consumed raw, there is always the risk that bacteria, which is killed by proper cooking,

may be present. For this reason, when serving these foods raw, always buy certied

salmonella-free eggs and the freshest meat and sh available from a reliable grocer, storing

them in the refrigerator until they are served. Because of the health risks associated with

the consumption of bacteria that can be present in raw eggs, meat, and sh, these foods

should not be consumed by infants, small children, pregnant women, the elderly, or any

persons who may be immunocompromised. The author and publisher expressly disclaim

responsibility for any adverse eects that may result from the use or application of the

recipes and information contained in this book.

Copyright 2014 by Christopher Kostow

Photographs copyright 2014 by Peden + Munk

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing

Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of

Random House LLC.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Kostow, Christopher, 1976-

A new Napa cuisine / Christopher Kostow ; photography by Peden + Munk.

pages cm

1. Cooking, American--California style. 2. Napa Valley

(Calif.)--Description and travel. I. Title.

TX715.2.C34K67 2014

641.579419--dc23

2014010462

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-594-5

eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-595-2

Printed in China

Design: Sarah Gephart, MGMT. design

Photography editor: Luise Stauss, Stauss & Quint

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition


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