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UNIT COMPONENTS AND MAINTENANCE

UNIONAIRE TESTING You can be assured your unit is coming to you ready to install. Every Unionaire mini-split is pre-tested before it leaves the factory. Unionaire’s ridged two-to-four hours of testing includes running each unit and sending a test sample from the production floor to engineering that tests the units

PACKAGING Each unit is packaged with Styrofoam and heavy cardboard to prevent damage during shipping and on your truck as it goes out to be installed.

Remote in the Styrofoam end cap

COMPONENTS USED IN MANUFACTURING PROCESS Castings are made at one of the Unionaire factories out of ABS fiberglass compound. Since Unionaire manufactures their own castings, they can assure you the highest quality along with a savings that is passed on to you. ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS Motors – Manufactured by General Electric, A. O. Smith, and GBM Compressors – Made by Panasonic, Mitsubishi, and Copeland. Two-ton and larger units have Copeland CRQ Low-Noise Compressors. Universal Remote – Manufactured and quality tested by Unionaire Circuit boards – Unionaire makes and tests the circuit boards. The circuit board in the evaporator has a 3 amp or a 5 amp fuse in it that prevents power spikes from blowing out your circuit board.

Fuses on the circuit board

Circuit Board

REPAIRING COMPONENTS IN YOUR EVAPORATOR Unionaire makes it easy to get to all of your components. You can remove the whole cover by removing screws and snaps.

Screws

Two Easy-to-

clean Filters

Evapo

chargeunits aPower cord on

smaller units

Thermostat

Carbon Filter

Snaps

rators come with a holding of nitrogen gas to insure re reliable upon installation

Drain Line – Unionaire

provides room for condensate pump,

if needed

WIRING YOUR UNIONAIRE Unionaire manufactures three-quarter and one-ton units in 110 and 220 with power cords on the evaporator that can be plugged into an outlet behind the evaporator.

Cool Air recommends that you wire your

unit on a dedicated service line. Follow Local and State codes. The electrical suggestions for wiring the units are as follows:

Unit Size Gauge Wire Fuse Size 3/4 Ton 14 Gauge 20 amp 1 Ton 14 Gauge 20 amp

1 3/4 Ton 12 Gauge 20 amp 2 Ton 10 Gauge 25 amp

2 1/2 Ton 10 Gauge 30 amp

Unionaof thespanel odiagrampower

r

ELECT

The ou Termin All sim Terminreversi Terminfan mo TerminOn coo

Condense

ire also manufactue units requires yon the condenser a (see the last pag

strips make units u

RICAL SYMBOLS

Ground - Every

tside condenser p

als L1 and L2 on t

ilarly marked termi

als marked W areng valve in the con

als marked CF aretor.

als marked C on yl only models, the

(See the

Evaporator

3 Ton 10 Gauge 40 amp The unit is hard wired between the

evaporator and condenser to power up the condenser

res one-ton to three-ton units that are hard wired. Installation u to run power to the condenser. Simply open the electrical nd evaporator and hard wire them per the appropriate wiring es of this booklet). Unionaire units are simple to wire. Marked ser friendly.

FOR WIRING

unit has a wire between ground and ground

owers most units.

he condenser are wired directly to a 220 volt power supply.

nals should be connected to each other.

found only on heat pump models and operate the four-way denser.

found only on heat pump models and control the condenser

our condenser runs your compressor on heat pump models. C runs both your compressor and condenser fan motor.

wiring diagrams at the back of this booklet)

HIGH WALL UNITS Installation notes – read the installation notes below thoroughly before installing. Unionaire High-Wall units should be installed as high on the wall as possible to maximize the use of your unit.

Your installation plate should be fastened securely to studs in the wall. Unionaire has designed their wall plate to allow room for drilling a three-inch hole for your line set and electrical wiring.

1. Locate an outside wall to mount the indoor unit. Also in this step, you will want to mark the spot where you want the indoor unit to mount. Usually in the center of the wall.

2. Mount the hanging bracket that comes with the indoor unit to the wall. Make sure bracket is level. One thing to keep in mind is to make sure the "legs" that are coming down on the bracket are on a stud.

3. This step is very important. Cutting the hole to the outside. Use a 3" hole saw to cut your hole. You want to be 13" down to the bottom of the hole and 9 1/2" to the right from the center part of the "leg" on the right side of the bracket. Again, 13" down to bottom of the hole - 9 1/2" over to the center of the hole. Cut your hole in the center.

4. After the hole is cut, run the lineset and drain tube that is attached to the indoor unit through the hole and to the outside. Be careful not to kink the lineset going through the wall. If you are wiring the unit yourself, it would also be a good time to connect the wires to the indoor unit and run those lines to the outside as well.

5. This part again is showing the various lines going through the hole to the outside. You will need a couple of people to help hold the indoor unit while getting the lines through hole to the outside. One thing to notice here is that all the lines are black taped together so it is easier to get through the hole.

6. Finally, we have the indoor unit mounted to the wall. The lines are through the wall to the outside. As you will notice, the inside cover is off. You will put on the cover of the indoor unit at the end of installation. Make sure again the unit is level or sloping slightly to the right and is on the bracket correctly.

7. Next we go to the outside unit. Here is where we will connect the lineset that is on the indoor unit to the lineset that we have to purchase separately. Connect the lineset to the indoor unit's lineset and to the outdoor unit using a wrench. If you need to cut the lineset because it is too long, you will then need a flaring tool (not provided) to re-flair the ends. The lineset that you will receive will have flair fittings all ready on the lines. Also at this time, you will hook up 5/8" drain line to the line that is coming out of the indoor unit. Use 3" clamps on the side of the house to hold the various lines in place and to keep straight.

REMEMBER TO USE AN OIL TRAP FOR EVERY 13 FEET OF LINE SET.

8. This picture shows the lineset connecting to the outdoor unit. You will want to make sure the lines are tight and do not leak. Also, notice the vinyl drain line at the bottom. This is going away from the house so when the unit condensates, the water will flow away from the unit and the house. You can run the drain line anywhere on the outside. This is where you also need to evacuate the system with a vacuum pump, release freon into the lineset from the outdoor unit. Check the pressures at the unit and if you ran your lineset over 13', you will need to add freon to the system. 5 psi per foot of lineset over 13'. To do these last few steps in picture 8, you should be a license HVAC contractor or know someone who is. Only licensed contractors are certified to use CFC’s (Freon).

Use of “off peak electric” voids the warranty.

9. This picture shows the final outside unit. Notice the electrician has installed his disconnect box and electrical whip to the outdoor unit. Power is in place. Unit is ready to start. Also, the pad is installed underneath the unit to keep the unit level. You would purchase the pad separately.

10. The final picture shows what the indoor unit will look like with the cover on and running. The air will blow out through the bottom louvers and cool the room with ease.

• • • • • • • • •

•

• • •

Install inside hanger bracket. Hang inside unit, and mark lineset hole. Drill pilot hole and inspect for wires. Cut out lineset hole and reinstall indoor unit. Carefully bend inside unit lineset towards outdoor unit. Set outdoor condenser in desired location Install lineset from inside and outside unit, cut and flare to desired length. Soap lineset flares and recheck pressures, release pressure. Install vacuum pump to yellow line and evacuate the system, clean up and let pump run for min. 1/2 hour, check gauge, should be at least to 28 better if @ 30. Reinstall yellow line on freon tank, purge air from line, release freon into lineset to approx 5 psi per foot of lineset over 13 feet, unit is precharged for 13'. Open liquid side a hair then open suction side finish opening liquid side. Clean up Power unit and wait five minutes before turning unit on.

REMOTE CONTROLS

UNIONAIRE HWC-ERROR CODES

Fault Code Flash Time/Error Code Analysis

HWC009-012 Power LED Flashing 4 Flashes every 3 seconds Room sensor or outdoor

sensor not connected Sleep LED Flashing Continuous Flash Indoor sensor not

connected Cool LED Flashing Power LED Flashing

Continuous Flash + 1 Flash every 3 seconds

Compressor Overheat

Cool LED Flashing Power LED Flashing

Continuous Flash + 3 Flashes every 3 seconds

Refrigerant Gas Leak

HWC018-024

E1 Room Sensor Flashing Fan Sensor not connected E2 Indoor Sensor Flashing Sleep Sensor not connected E3 Outdoor Sensor Flashing Dry Sensor not connected E4 Flashing Cool Overload E5 Flashing Cool + Dry Low Refrigerant Charge

HWC030-036 Power LED 4 Flashes every 3 seconds Room/Indoor/Outdoor

sensor not connected Cool LED Power LED

Continuous Flash + 1 Flash every 3 seconds

Overheat/Overload

Cool LED Continuous Flash + 3 Flashes every 3 seconds Low Refrigerant

Charge/Gas Leak

NPower to Evaporator C

CFW

N N CHL LC C

Power to Evaporator

N NC CW WCF CF

Power to Evaporator

N NL LC C

Power to Evaporator

N NL LC CW WCF CF

Power to Condenser

N NC C

Power to Condenser

N NC C

Condenser FanControl HeatCrank Case Heater

COOL ONLY (110-115)

"HEAT PUMP" (110-115)ORHC012W40

HWC012A4CO ORTC012W40

"HEAT PUMP" (110-115)HWC009A4HO ORHC009W40

"HEAT PUMP" (208-230)HWC012A6HO

COOL ONLY (208-230)HWC012A6CO ORTC012W60

ORHC012W60

HWC012A4HO

Wiring Diagrams for Unionaire HWC Systems

COOL ONLY (110-115)HWC009A4CO ORTC009W40

NeutralControl Cool

Inside Unit Outside Unit

NPower to Condenser C

CFW

B L1 L1 CHY L2 L2C B

YC

Power to Condenser

BY L1 L1

L2 L2C B

CF YW C

WCF

Power To Evaporator

L1 B L1L2 Y C

C WW CFCF

Power to Condenser

N L1 L1L L2 L2C B

YC

Power to Condenser

N L1 L1L L2 L2C BW YCF C

WCF

NeutralControl CoolCondenser FanControl Heat

Inside Unit Outside Unit

HWC024A6CO ORTC025W60

ORTC020W60HWC020A6CO

HWC020B6HO ORHC020W60

HWC024A6HO ORHC025W60"HEAT PUMP" (208-230)

HWC020B6HO ORHC020W60

COOL ONLY (208-230)

COOL ONLY (208-230)

"HEAT PUMP" (208-230)

"HEAT PUMP" (208-230)

Crank Case Heater

NPower to Condenser C

CFW

B N L1 CHY L L2C B

YC

Power to Condenser

BY L1 L1C L2 L2W BCF Y

CWCF

Power to Condenser

B N L1Y L L2C B

YC

Power to Condenser

B N L1Y L L2C BW YCF C

WCF

HWC036A6HO ORHC036W60"HEAT PUMP" (208-230)

HWC036A6CO ORTC036W60COOL ONLY (208-230)

"HEAT PUMP" (208-230)HWC030A6HO ORHC030W60

Inside Unit Outside Unit

COOL ONLY (208-230) NeutralHWC030A6CO ORTC030W60 Control Cool

Crank Case Heater

Condenser FanControl Heat

2

G+ Series 20 and 24

NPower to Evaporator C

CFW

L2 B L1 CHL1 Y C

C Unused Slot

Power to Condenser

B L1 L1Y CC L2

Power to EvaporatorL2 B L1L1 Y C

C WW CFCF Blank

Slots

Power to Condenser

B L1 L1Y CC WW CFCF Blank L2

Slots

Control CoolCondenser Fan

Inside Unit Outside Unit

COOL ONLY (208-230) Neutral

HWC024A6HO ORHCO25W60

HWC020A6CO ORTCO20W60

ORTCO20W60

HWC020A6HO ORHCO20W60

HWC024A6CO ORTCO25W60

HWC024A6CO

Control HeatCrank Case Heater

G+ Series 20 + 24

HWC024A6HO ORHCO25W60

HWC020A6COORTC025W60

Unused slot use as L2

HWC020A6HO ORHCO20W60

XXX XXX X X XX HWC 009 A 4 CO XXXX XXX X XX ORTC 009 W 40

HWC: Wall-Mounted Unit CFU: Ceiling/Floor Unit

009 = 3/4 Ton 012 = 1 Ton 020 = 1.75 Ton 024 = 2 Ton 030 = 2.5 Ton 036 = 3 Ton

Factory assigned

Letter

4: 110 – 115 /1/ 60 Mhz 6: 208-230/ 1 / 60 Mhz

CO: Cool Only HP: Heat Pump E: Electric Heater

ORTC: Outdoor Unit Cool Only ORHC: Outdoor Unit Heat Pump

009 = 3/4 Ton 012 = 1 Ton 020 = 1.75 Ton 024 = 2 Ton 030 = 2.5 Ton 036 = 3 Ton

W: Wall Mounted F: Ceiling Floor

40: 110 – 115 /1/ 60 Mhz 60: 208-230/ 1 / 60 Mhz

2