3pd dublin

7/31/2019 3pd Dublin

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82DAY ONEStudying history and

fancying pints

84DAY TWO

Relaxing onSt. Stephens Green

88DAY THREE

Heading off to thecountryside

THREE PERFECT DAYS

DUBLINThe Celtic Tiger may have lost its growl, but this auld town is asenergized as ever, with bustling pubs, fast-evolving culinary and theaterscenes and the warm, wiy hospitality thats given the Irish such a good name

BY JON MARCUS PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN PARK


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GO GREENOpposite, tharp sculpture outside of t

Ritz-Carlton Powerscourtleafy stretch of St. Stephen

Green Nor

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM JULY 2011 7


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YOURE VERY WELCOME. That traditional Irish greeting will likelybe the first thing you hear from every taxi driver, hotel clerk and matre d in

Dublin, and its seldom seemed so heartfelt. Since Irelands so-called Celtic Tigereconomic boom went bust in the 2000s, this island nation has weathered someharsh economic times. But while that pushed down restaurant prices and hotelratespropelled not long ago to previously unimaginable heightsit hasntslowed the confidence or entrepreneurship of a generation raised on energyand affl uence. Talented chefs are launching innovative restaurants, and wholeneighborhoods of hotels and theaters that appeared overnight are now thriving.The new Dublin is fashionable, cosmopolitan and confident, yet its also, in a way,returned to basics, with a tempo that has slowed down to the leisurely pace of apour of Guinness. But for all the changes, theres one thing this city never lost:its Irish hospitality, the warmest anywhere. Youll be very welcome.

FULL IRISHFrom left, youngDubliners; an Irish

breakfast atONeills Pub;ThorntonsRestaurant

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THREE PERFECT DAYSD U B L I N


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DAY ONE

(1)The Morrison Lower Ormond Quay; Tel: 353-1-887-2400

(2)Bewleys Caf 78-79 Graton St.; Tel: 353-1-672-7720

(3)Dublin Tourism Centre Sufolk St.; Tel: 353-1-605-7700

(4)1916 Rising walking tour International Bar, 23 Wicklow St.;

Tel: 353-1-868-583-847(5)Leo Burdock 2 Werburgh St.;Tel: 353-1-454-0306 (6) Guinness Storehouse St. Jamess Gate; Tel:

353-1-408-4800 (7)Thorntons 128 St. Stephens Green;

Tel: 353-1-478-7008 (8)ODonoghues Pub 15 Merrion Row;

Tel: 353-1-660-7194 (9)Doheny & Nesbitt Pub 45 Lower Baggot St.;

Tel: 353-1-676-2945

DAY ONE | Check in at The Morrison (1), a sleek boutique

hotel favored by visiting musicians and actors (Beyonc,

Rihanna, Colin Farrell, Katy Perry and Christina Aguilera,

to name a few) with an eclectic East-meets-West motif

devised by the Hong Kongborn, Dublin-based designer

John Rocha. Tapering hallways, high ceilings, dark wood,

leather furniture and aromatherapeutic toiletries contributeto the feng shui of this laidback, comfortable place. Its also

centrally located on the River Liffey just across from the

rowdy Temple Bar nightlife districtbut not so close that

youll be disturbed by the nighime clamorand near the

Henry Street shopping area.

Stroll across the Liffey on the Hapenny Bridge (named for

the one-time toll) and start your visit with a breakfast of tea

and fresh-baked pastries at Bewleys Caf (2), a Dublin institu-

tion. In warm weather, ask to sit on the second level in the

James Joyce Room (it was a favorite haunt of not only Joyce,

who mentioned Bewleys in Dubliners, but also fellow writ-

ers Samuel Becke and Sean OCasey) overlooking Graon

Street, the bustling main pedestrian shopping

strip. Bewleys has stayed up to date, with laes

craed by artistic baristas, but theres one argu-

ably appealing throwback: no Wi-Fi.Dublin is eminently walkable, and the Dublin

Tourism Centre (3), in a high-steepled decommis-

sioned Presbyterian church, makes for a good

starting point. Arrange to meet up with witty

Lorcan Collins, who leads the 1916 Easter Rising

walking tour (4) about the event most associated

with the long Irish struggle for independence. Its

best to have at least some knowledge of the upris-

ing in advance, and prepare to learn much about

Collins politically incorrect takes on religion and

the British monarchy, complete with a raft of

Irish curse words. Its a good way to circle the city

center, including Trinity College and OConnellStreet, whose monumentsmost famously, the

post offi ce, which was occupied by the hopelessly

outgunned insurgentsstill bear the bullet holes

of the rebellion.

Next, stop for fish and chips from Dublins

hands-down best chipper, Leo Burdock (5). A

single portion is big enough for two, and since

the little takeaway joint has no tables, carry

your lunch across the street to the park at the

cathedral and enjoy it outdoors. To wash it down,

stroll over to the Guinness Storehouse (6) a few

blocks farther westbut not just for the tour.

Enjoy a fresh-brewed pint, included in the cost ofadmission, in the Gravity Bar atop the seven-story

storehouse, which has the best, most breathtak-

ing views of low-rise Dublin. Most of the Guinness

for the Irish, European and American markets is

brewed here, but nowhere does it taste as fresh

as it does from a tap in Dublin.

For dinnerthe Irish eat around 8:30hit Michelin-starred

Thorntons(7) in the Fitzwilliam Hotel on St. Stephens Green.

This is one of those new Dublin kinds of places where

Irish-born, French-trained chef Kevin Thornton performs

alchemistic twists on Irish standards, such as rabbit, suckling

pig and black sole. The mullet appetizer, for example, arrives at

the table in a glass bowl filled with wood smoke thats releasedwith a flourish by the server.

If Paris has its cafs, the Irish like to say, Dublin has its

pubsclose to 1,000 of them in this city of 1 million, or one

for about every 1,000 people. Skip the ones in Temple Bar for

now; with some exceptions, theyre for tourists and students.

Strike out for the real thing on Baggot Street, where you can

bar-hop with the locals from ODonoghues Pub (8), which

has live music every night, to Doheny & Nesbitt Pub (9), a

popular hangout for journalists and politicians. ODonoghues,

one patron says admiringly, hasnt been repainted in 50 years,

apparently the sign of an authentic Irish pub. You linger a

while to discuss this topic further.

82 JULY 2011 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM



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PUB LIFE A live music sessionat ODonoghues Pub


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DAY TWO | The best cure for a hangover may be an

Irish breakfastthe full Irish, in the native vernacu-

lar: a fried egg, sausage, bacon, potatoes, mushrooms,

blood pudding and beans. And youll find the best Irishbreakfast in Dublin in a pub, of all places: 300-year-old

ONeills Bar & Restaurant (1), across from the visitors

center, which begins the traditional fry-up at the civi-

lized hour of 10:30 a.m. and uses all local ingredients,

including Guinness in the sausages and brown sauce,

all served with sympathetic smiles.

Next up, for a needed infusion of high-mindedness

and decorum, enjoy a tour of Trinity College (2),

whose courtyard is open to the public and provides a

quiet respite from the crowded city streets. There are

short, student-led tours from mid-May through late

September, but if youre lucky enough to come during

exam time youll be shown around by Joe OGorman,a junior dean whose operatic delivery is accented by

a mane of gray hair, dark glasses, academic gown and

handkerchief billowing from his breast pocket. The

tour ends with the famous Book of Kells, the four

gospels of the New Testament illustrated around the

ninth century by Celtic monks. But the real payoff

is the 200-foot Long Room of the university library,

with 200,000 antique books, busts of scholars and a

three-story barreled wooden ceiling that evokes a

certain book and movie serial about young wizards

and conspiratorial academics.

Now go to Temple Bar. Although its worth a wan-

der aer dark, youll find decent sandwichestry thedistinctively Irish chicken and stuffi ng on multigrain

bread aer a starter of local Galway Bay oystersat

the pub straightforwardly named the Temple Bar

Pub (3). It offers something else rare in this neigh-

borhoodlive music at lunchand the traditional

seing of dark polished wood and brass with a sunny

courtyard beer garden.

The weathers nice, so you while away the aernoon

in St. Stephens Green(4), where youll be joined by

what seems like all of Dublin. Small by European

standards, its a well-used, welcome refuge in this

teeming town, with duck ponds, gardens, walking

paths and a sea of locals sprawled out on the grassand benches. Then take in the view of the park from

the high windows of the Lord Mayors Lounge in the

187-year-old Shelbourne Hotel(5), just across the street,

which serves a proper Irish aernoon tea daily from

2:30 to 5:30 under a high ceiling hung with Waterford

chandeliers. Sink into so easy chairs and linger over

sweets and finger sandwiches.

You cant leave a city of culture without going to the

theater, and Dublin has a few new ones of those, too,

including the Grand Canal in the Docklands, which

runs West End musicals and other popular produc-

tions. But the principal stage for works by Irish artists



DAY TWO

(1)ONeills Bar & Restaurant 2 Sufolk St.; Tel: 353-1-679-3656

(2)Trinity College College Green; Tel: 353-1-896-1000

(3)Temple Bar Pub 47-48 Temple Bar; Tel: 353-1-672-5286

(4)St. Stephens Green(5)Shelbourne Hotel

27 St. Stephens Green; Tel: 353-1-663-4500 (6) Abbey Theatre

26-27 Lower Abbey St.; Tel: 353-1-887-2200

(7)The Odessa Club 13 Dame Court; Tel: 353-1-670-3080

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Trinity College Dublin

R i v e r L iffey


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CABBAGE BE GONE!

Gray boiled meats and listless

starches have or years earnedIreland scorn in culinarycircles, but the Celtic Tigerbrought with it kitchens ullo new talent and creativeapproaches to the malignednative cuisine. Dublin lies atthe center o the renaissance.Dylan McGraths Rustic Stoneopened last summer (ater theclosing o his ambitious andtop-rated Mint), supplying itscustomers with volcanic rocks

on which to cook their fish ormeat themselves. StephenGibsons buzzing Pichet Cafserves a brasserie-style menuin a contemporary setting doneup in blue with white piping, asi a symbol o the simple-but-good new Dublin cuisine. AndStephen McAllisters The PigsEar ofers updated takes ontraditional Irish are, inspiringone Dubliner to note, tellingly:Its Irish without being bad.

BOSS TWEEDThis page,the wares at Kevin & Howlin;opposite, Sunday afternoon atthe Shelbourne Hotel tea room.



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EMERALD JEWELSThis page, Temple Bar;

opposite, horses at Pow-erscourt estate; statue ofthinker (and alum) Oliver

Goldsmithat Trinity College



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DAY THREE

(1)Lemon Crepe & Cofee Company 60 Dawson St.;

Tel: 353-1-672-8898 (2)Kennedy & McSharry 39 Nassau St.;

Tel: 353-1-677-8770 (3)Kevin & Howlin 31 Nassau St.;

Tel: 353-1-633-4576 (4)Celtic Note 15 Nassau St.;

Tel: 353-1-670-4157 (5)Kilkenny Shop 6-15 Nassau Street;

Tel: 353-1-677-7066 (6) Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt

Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry; Tel: 353-1-274-8888

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Trinity College Dublin

THE PINT

AND THE

PEN

Dublin has a

world-class literarypedigree entwinedwith a rich drink-ing culture. Tolearn about bothfirsthand, join theDublin LiteraryPub Crawl, whereactors and literary

enthusiasts Colm Quilligan and Frank Smith willshow you pubs and other landmarks associated withthe rich body o Irish literature, reciting rom amousbooks and letters and singing traditional drinking

tunes, like the cheerul Waxies Dargle, abouttwo Dubliners in search o unds. Dublin has beennewly designated by UNESCO as a city o literature,and, perhaps unshockingly, much o Irish writingoriginated in these pubs. Playwright and dedicatedpub-dweller Brendan Behan, or instance, oncedubbed himsel a drinker with a writing problem.The crawl begins in the TheDuke (shown above)

just of Graton Street, near where, inUlysses, Leo-pold Bloom asks a blind man i he wants to crossthe road. It ends in a pleasant og some indetermi-nate time later, depending, as Quilligan puts it, onhow quickly you walk or how slowly you drink.



PHOTOGRAPHOFTHEDUKECOURTESYOFWILLIAMMURPH

Y/FLICKR


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Fiach Mac ConghailARTISTIC DIRECTOR,

THE ABBEY THEATRE

Theres a really nice restaurant calledEly Bar & Brasserie thats only five

minutes walk rom the theater andclose to the river. Its perect on a sunnySaturday aternoon. Also, a trip to see

the Yeats exhibition at the NationalLibrary o Ireland is always a pleasure.

Neasa OReilly,PROJECT MANAGER, THE O2

Dun Laoghaire on a Sunday is bliss.Stroll the pier to blow away the

cobwebs, and then enjoy a zingyFroberry rozen yogurt on the way to aarmers market ull o treats. Its made

to chill out even the busiest mind.

Robbie DevineCONCIERGE, THE FITZWILLIAM HOTEL

As eatured in Ulysses, Davey ByrnesPub on Duke Street is a Dublin

institution that serves a great pint othe black stuf (Guinness). Also,its a good option or lunch, with

excellent seaood. Or pop into myavorite, McDaids on Harry Street, or

a great Irish cofee.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

and writers is the Abbey Theatre (6),

founded by one W.B. Yeats, whose

auditorium was renovated in 2007, and

whose ticket prices are far lower than

youll find in London or New York.

After the show, good luck findingsomewhere to eat late. The Irish are more

interested in liquids than in solids, as one

Dubliner puts it, aer 10 p.m., when most

kitchens close. So you hunt down The

Odessa Club (7), a private restaurant on

narrow Dame Court near Great Georges

Street, which serves late; youll find it

three flights up behind an unmarked

door just to the left of the restaurant

entrance. Ring the bell to be admied

for tapas-style plates called fivers, such

as pork and beef meatballs, and full-size

entres like the Irish-Moroccan fusion-style lamb tagine with couscous. Since

most pubs close at 11:30 p.m., or 12:30 a.m.

on Fridays and Saturdays, aer dinner

you call it a night.

DAY THREE | Start today with a light

breakfast at the Dawson Street location

ofLemon Crepe & Cofee Company(1),

a creperie popular with locals for its

sweet crepes and Belgian waffl es, hip

design and music, friendly service

and fun vibe. Then spend the rest of

this late morning shopping on Nassau

Street, around the corner and across

from Trinity, for real Irish goods, fromDonegal tweed and scally caps at Ken-

nedy & McSharry(2) to walking sticks

and Dubliner hats at Kevin & Howlin(3),

to Irish music old and new atCeltic Note

(4). Youll also find theKilkenny Shop(5),

with more contemporary Irish crafts

and crystal.

Then make your way to Pearse Rail-

way Station for one of the frequent

DART trains to Bray and the Ritz-Carlton

Powerscourt(6) in suburban County

Wicklow, a rich agricultural region

where much of what you ate in Dublincame from. The 40-minute ride takes

you along the scenic coast and through

whats known as Irish Hollywood, where

celebrities including Enya and U2s Bono

and the Edge live.

This Ritz is inside the private Power-

scourt estate, owned by the Slazenger

family of sporting goods fame. Opened

at the peak of the Celtic Tiger, its set

down in a hilly forest with an uninter-

rupted view of the 1,644-foot Sugar

Loaf Mountain across the green Irish

countryside. It has two championship

golf courses, a spa and a black marble

heated indoor pool inset with Swarovskicrystals. Ninety-three of the 200 rooms

are suites, impeccably furnished and

high-tech with TVs set inside the bath-

room mirrors and a buon by the bed

that parts the drapes, rainforest show-

ers, feather beds and walk-in wardrobes.

Activities here range from biking, to

fly-fishing, to hiking and even archery,

but you decide to unwind with a lavish

dinner at the new Gordon Ramsay at

Powerscourt fine-dining restaurant, the

fiery chefs first in Ireland, with new

takes on classics such as lobster ravioli,roast sea scallops with crisp pork belly,

and Wicklow venison and lamb. As you

dine alfresco on the balcony, taking

in the extraordinary mountain view,

youve seldom felt so very welcome.

A frequent visitor to Ireland and resident of

Boston, writer JON MARCUS likes to consider

himself Irish by association.



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