35 2011 · folio fine wine partners. —m.l. abv: na price: $200 12 96 château léoville-barton...

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46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2011 WineMag.com | 47 PHOTO CREDIT PHOTO JON VAN GORDER THE YEAR’S MOST IMPORTANT COLLECTIBLES BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE T he vast majority—something like 90% or more—of wine purchased in this country is consumed within 48 hours of purchase. This list isn’t about that. It’s not about pop and pour; it’s not about instant gratification. Instead, our list of the year’s Top 100 Cellar Selections is about laying the groundwork, anticipating the pleasure and—perhaps 10 years from now— experiencing the delights only a mature wine can offer, secure in the knowledge that you purchased it on release and cellared it carefully until just the right moment. To a large extent, our list of Top 100 Cellar Selections reflects which classic wine regions released the best vintages during the past year. In 2011, that means the list is heavy on 2007 Barolo and 2006 Brunello di Montalcino, but light on the terrific 2009 Bordeaux and Burgundies, which are largely yet to be reviewed. In the interest of diversity, we sprinkle in wines from a wide range of countries and grape varieties, but since most of these ageworthy wines come from established regions and top vintages, the emphasis is on quality, not value. Despite that, this year’s list does feature 30 wines that were originally released for $50 per bottle or less, including the year’s top pick. Multimillionaires shouldn’t have all the fun, should they? 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 Dry Red Wines: 79 Dry White Wines: 12 Sparkling Wines: 3 Sweet Wines: 6 Average Rating: 95.1 Average Price: $97.51 by Country 2011

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46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MONTH 2011 WineMag.com | 47

PHO

TO C

RED

IT

PHO

TO J

ON

VA

N G

OR

DER

THE YEAR’S MOST IMPORTANT

COLLECTIBLESBY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE

T he vast majority—something like 90% or more—of wine purchased in this country is consumed within 48 hours of purchase. This list isn’t

about that. It’s not about pop and pour; it’s not about instant gratification. Instead, our list of the year’s Top 100 Cellar Selections is about laying the groundwork, anticipating the pleasure and—perhaps 10 years from now—experiencing the delights only a mature wine can offer, secure in the knowledge that you purchased it on release and cellared it carefully until just the right moment.

To a large extent, our list of Top 100 Cellar Selections reflects which classic wine regions released the best vintages during the past year. In 2011, that means the list is heavy on 2007 Barolo and 2006 Brunello di Montalcino, but light on the terrific 2009 Bordeaux and Burgundies, which are largely yet to be reviewed. In the interest of diversity, we sprinkle in wines from a wide range of countries and grape varieties, but since most of these ageworthy wines come from established regions and top vintages, the emphasis is on quality, not value. Despite that, this year’s list does feature 30 wines that were originally released for $50 per bottle or less, including the year’s top pick. Multimillionaires shouldn’t have all the fun, should they?

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

Dry Red Wines: 79Dry White Wines: 12Sparkling Wines: 3Sweet Wines: 6Average Rating: 95.1Average Price: $97.51

by Country2011

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196 Poggio Nardone 2006 Brunello di Mon-

talcino. Poggio Nardone offers an absolute-ly gorgeous Brunello with incredibly smooth, rich and beautiful aromas of mature blackberry, coffee, tobacco and smoky barbecue sauce. The wine’s texture is dense but also silky and the fruit-driven finish lasts many min-utes. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

299 Stonestreet 2007 Rockfall Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Alexander Valley). This is Cabernet Sauvignon lifted to greatness, an impeccable statement concerning this region of the high Mayacamas Moun-tains on the Sonoma side that, by law, is forced to bear a “valley” appellation. The wine is awesome, vast and complex, fascinating in every aspect, yet locked down in tough tannins that exaggerate the acidity, making the wine functionally undrinkable. It is a beautiful, classic Cabernet, very near perfect, and certainly one of the successes of the vintage. Don’t even think of drinking it before 2014, and it should evolve in the bottle for a good 10 years after that. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

397 Domaine Huët 2010 Le Mont Première

Trie Moelleux (Vouvray). This will be a won-derful wine. Already, it is fine, with lovely acidity, bright and richly sweet at the same time. Yellow fruits mingle with honey, pear, almonds and the intense sweetness of botrytis. Rare Wine Company. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $69

495 Hirsch 2007 San Andreas Pinot Noir (So-

noma Coast). Young and tart in cool-climate acidity, this Pinot needs time in the cellar. It’s an exotic wine, spicy and peppery, almost briary, like a Zinfan-del, except with flavors of wild forest raspberries, cher-ries, orange zest and a hint of pine cone. It’s as cellar-able a Pinot Noir as exists in California. Best after 2015. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $60

5

97 Merryvale 2008 Profile (Napa Valley). A tremendous wine that shows how Merryvale is

absolutely at the top of its game. Impeccable in struc-ture, with refined tannins that are soft and firm at the same time, and a fine cut of acidity. Entirely dry, the Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend is awesome in black-berry, cherry, cassis and oak flavors, with complexities of anise, soy sauce, grilled meats and minerals. Beyond the particulars, it just feels dramatic and rich in the mouth. A great wine that should develop in the bottle over the next decade. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $165

697 Casanova di Neri 2006 Tenuta Nuova

(Brunello di Montalcino). A wow! wine on every level. This is a lovely, dark, smooth and rich ex-pression that is packed tight with intensity and person-ality. The biggest, boldest wine by far from Montalcino’s 2006 vintage, this bottle will age nicely and add value to your cellar collection. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

7

98 Von Strasser 2008 Reserve (Diamond Mountain). As good as the winery’s other

2008s are, this wine raises the stakes. It’s bone dry, deeply tannic and marked by classic varietal flavors of blackberries, cassis and dark chocolate, with sweet, smoky oak. Almost a food group in itself for its complex-

ity, it’s dazzling now for its sheer luxurious deliciousness, yet is guaranteed to develop over at least the next 10 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $125

898 Le Macchiole 2007 Paleo Cabernet Franc

(Toscana). Paleo (a pure expression of Cab-ernet Franc from coastal Tuscany) is a drop-dead gor-geous wine with amazing intensity and purity of aromas. You get it all here: bright berry notes, drying mineral, exotic spice, cooling acidity and firm, satisfying struc-ture. It’s a rich, velvety and beautiful wine that will award you a memorable drinking experience now or in 10 years time. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $125

994 Luis Duarte 2009 Rapariga da Quinta

Reserva (Alentejano). A smooth wine, all its structure encased in warm black fruit and toast. It de-velops slowly in the mouth, revealing sweet tannins and an opulent juiciness. The acidity is an equally warming addition to the final spice character. Age for 3–4 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

10

96 Reynolds Family Winery 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis-

trict). A big, vital and important Cabernet that deserves a place in the cellar. It hits the mouth with huge tannins that are tight and locked down, yet sweetly ripe. That contradiction persists throughout the fantastically com-plex blackberry, cherry, currant and mocha flavors. A very fine, superior wine that exemplifies the Stags Leap iron fist in a velvet glove. As delicious as it is, you should hold this Cabernet for a good six years, and it could eas-ily develop for an additional decade. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $89

1199 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2007 Ornellaia (Bol-

gheri Superiore). The 2007 Ornellaia is a masterpiece blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a tiny element of Petit Verdot. The intensity and purity are outstanding and the wine deliv-ers beautiful notes of chocolate, black cherry, leather, cedar and spice. It’s a big, modern expression that closes long with luscious softness and opulent fruit. Hold 10 years or more. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $200

1296 Château Léoville-Barton 2008 Saint-Ju-

lien. A dense, beautifully structured wine. It shows intense, ripe fruit with balanced acidity. It’s the fine tannins that give it such class, surrounding the fruit, promising long aging. This is a classic for Léoville-Bar-ton. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $90

13

96 Schramsberg 2004 J. Schram (North Coast). Don’t even think about opening this

brut for at least six years and probably far longer. Made from 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir, it’s rich and full-bodied, with elaborately ripe flavors of tangerines, raspberries, roasted almonds and coconut, brioche, honey and vanilla. Good as it is, it simply needs time for everything to transmute into magic. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $100

14

98 Fattoria Petrolo 2007 Galatrona (Toscana). Galatrona is an opulent, gorgeous

wine (from the excellent 2007 vintage) that shows the very best of Merlot in Italy. Thanks to a unique grow-ing climate located between Florence, Siena and Arez-zo, as well as extremely low vineyard yields, the wine feels soft and velvety and imparts long-lasting flavors of black cherry, lively spice, tobacco and cigar box. The true beauty of Galatrona is that it shows all the passion and enthusiasm of its very talented winemaker. Vintus LLC. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $135

15

95 Domaine Serene 2007 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A very ele-

gant and refined Evenstad Reserve, with grace notes of sandalwood and a lovely cherry core. The fruit is im-maculate, the concentration focused and lengthy, and the flavors are so artfully blended that the wine is seam-less and perfectly balanced. Although it is drinking like a mature wine, there is every reason to cellar wines such as this—it can develop like a fine Burgundy, over de-cades. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $58

1696 Buty 2007 Columbia Rediviva Cabernet

Sauvignon-Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). From the winery’s Phinny Hill vineyard, the Columbia Rediviva is 48% Cabernet Sauvignon and 52% Syrah. Complex and satiny, it’s a riveting wine, inky and burst-ing with a sensuous mix of berry, cassis, mocha, loam, cinnamon and spice. Tremendous density and depth; despite its youth the wine curls around the tongue like thick smoke, showing more and more detail. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

17

99 Cayuse 2007 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The only one of the

Cayuse Syrahs that is co-fermented with Viognier, this opens with a stunning, floral bouquet, showing extraor-dinary depth and texture. The wine has a floral top, a thickly fruity middle and a base with smoke, rock and meat. Still very young, it is already a complete, fully re-alized, near-perfect wine with a finish that extends for many minutes. This should age for 25–30 years. Right now, it’s almost frozen in place; still a bit tannic, but with superb aging potential. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

1897 Marchesi Antinori 2007 Guado al Tasso

(Bolgheri Superiore). Guado al Tasso is a wine that will make you fall uncontrollably in love with Italy. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are expertly blended to produce amazing intensity, purity and texture. You’ll appreciate aromas of mineral, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and chocolate. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $102

Words of Winedom“Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance.”

–Benjamin Franklin

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2895 Terra Valentine 2007 Wurtele Vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). A well-made wine, showing lots of terroir in the min-eral-infused blackberry, black currant, chocolate and anise flavors. The tannins are structurally superb, while the finish is dry and complex. A very fine wine that should gather momentum for at least a decade. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $65

29

95 Louis Roederer 2005 Brut (Champagne). A superbly rich and creamy wine, powered by

ripe Pinot Noir, with elegance and élan. The wine is concentrated, powerful, packed with intense white fruit flavors and citrus. Always at the back is the richness. For aging. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $70

30

99 Charles Smith 2007 Royal City Stone-ridge Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley).

Depth and texture dominate; it’s all whole-cluster fruit, aged in new barriques. This fine follow-up to the 2006 features a little more delicacy, with a lovely floral com-ponent and some earth. The depth is astonishing in the weight and texture and the way the wine plays out

across the palate. The finish never ends: a glorious mix of black cherry, earth, herb, spice and rock. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $140

3195 Sesta di Sopra 2006 Brunello di Mon-

talcino. Sesta di Sopra delivers a superb and beautiful Brunello with impossible richness and gor-geous intensity. Aromas include black cherry, vanilla, dark mocha, freshly ground espresso and a subtle touch of mineral dryness at the end. It’s equally impressive on the palate with smooth, thick intensity. Premier Wine Co. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

32

95 Quinta do Vale Meão 2008 Red Wine (Douro). One of Portugal’s great wines, this

epitomizes the minerality and the rich, dark fruit of the Douro. It is intensely structured, powered by dark tan-nins, with rich berry fruit, layers of wood and acidity. With the extra freshness and pure fruits that are typi-cal of 2008, this will age for many years. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

3394 Bernard Baudry 2008 La Croix Boisée

(Chinon). With a touch of initial mineral aus-terity, this still-young wine offers tannins and a solid structure as well as black cherry and dark plum fruits. Beautifully balanced, it will develop slowly, leaving its minerality and rounding out. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer-chant. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $37

3495 Mark Ryan 2008 Dead Horse (Red Moun-

tain). This is the first wine to be blended each year, though it is not labeled a reserve. The new vin-tage has amazing depth, running down through a litany of red and black fruits, into veins of earth and tannin and graphite, and finishing with densely textured barrel notes of toast, coffee and bitter chocolate. Beautifully proportioned, deep and cellarworthy. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $45

1997 Franz Hirtzberger 2010 Singerriedel

Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). A supreme wine, the embodiment of Wachau Riesling. The steely character with its parallel acidity is beautifully integrat-ed into grapefruit and perfumed white fruits. A taut, nervy texture adds tension to a wine that will age 10 years or more. Vin Divino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $144

2094 Jean-Luc Baldès 2007 Clos Triguedina

Les Petites Cailles (Cahors). The third and most impressive wine in a series of single-vineyard wines, from the 900-foot plateau above the Lot River. This is a wine to age, very mineral in character and very structured, with tight tannins. Keep for six years and more. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $30

21

95 Trisaetum 2010 Estates Reserve Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). A two-barrel selection con-

sisting of the favorite sweeter barrel from each of the two estate vineyards. Intense, bright and focused, with candied lemon/lime fruit flavors. The power and con-centration of the wine is remarkable. —P.G. abv: 11% Price: $32

22

96 Cordero di Montezemolo 2007 Bricco Gattera (Barolo). This is an exceptional wine

that will leave a mark, and a memory, with those who drink it. It’s irresistible because of its brilliant, but sim-ple, philosophy. Traditional Nebbiolo tones of cola, lico-rice and pressed violets are set beautifully against mod-ern tones of spice, chocolate and vanilla. It’s the inte-gration of these two extremes that make this Barolo so important. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $80

2398 Campbells NV Isabella Rare Tokay

(Rutherglen). Dark amber in color and going greenish at the rim, the basis of this wine is clearly old stocks going back well over 60 years. It’s full-bodied, unctuous and superrich, oozing with molasses and ran-cio character, but balanced by citrusy notes. The finish is incredibly sweet and long, coating the mouth with coffee-like essences that linger for minutes. Click Wine Group. —J.C. abv: 18% Price: $97/375 ml

24

98 Williams Selyem 2008 Litton Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). This is the best of the winery’s new releases, both for drinking now and for cellaring. Combines power and elegance, with upscale flavors of cherries, currants, cola, rhubarbs, dried herbs and oak, wrapped into devastat-

ingly rich tannins and a perfect touch of acidity. Should age well for 10 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $100

25

96 Poggio al Tesoro 2007 Dedicato a Walter (Toscana). An impressive wine from an impres-

sive vintage, this Tuscan expression of Cabernet Franc opens with opulent fruit notes of blackberry, prune, plum and ripe cherry backed by clove, pepper, leather and cigar box. The tannins are firm and silky and the fin-ish is long and velvety. Winebow. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $90

2697 Rasa Vineyards 2008 Creative Impulse

DuBrul Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Yakima Valley). A fine expression of the special strengths of the DuBrul vineyard. The fruit is pure and juicy, a riot of blueberry, blackberry and cassis. There is a focused thread of fresh herb and as the nose expands the baking spices kick in beautifully. A wine to study and explore; it can continue to evolve for hours, if not days. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $95

2798 Gaja 2006 Sperss (Langhe). Sperss (the

name is inspired by the local word for “nos-talgia”) is a vineyard located in the Barolo territory of Serralunga. Angelo Gaja adds 6% Barbera to the wine for brightness and freshness but the overall ensemble shows so much more than that. It delivers sophisticat-ed softness and a velvety texture that is backed by ex-otic spice and loads of wild berry and licorice. Add huge depth and intensity and you have the criteria for a cel-lar-worthy wine. Will be ready to drink after 220. Ter-lato Wines International. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $255

T.J. as SommelierThomas Jefferson’s fine wine appreciation gained him the responsibility of helping stock the wine cellars of the first five U.S. presidents.

The Black Sheep of BaroloWhile Barolo Chinato is included under the standard Barolo DOCG designation, it is quite the unique

bottling. To produce it, Barolo wine is steeped in an array of ingredients including cinchona bark and mint,

making for a great digestif.

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95 Aurelio Settimo 2007 Rocche dell’Ann-unziata (Barolo). Wonderful, this is a wine

that will blow you away. It’s magnificent on all levels, from its complexity to its long endurance on the pal-ate. Aromas of red fruit, roasted coffee bean, smoked pancetta and soft spice build in intensity and brightness the longer the wine stays in the glass. Firm, velvety tan-nins promise long aging potential. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $65

3696 Vineyard 7&8 2008

Estate Cabernet Sau-vignon (Spring Mountain). It’s hard to exaggerate the purity of this wine, which is 100% Caber-net. It startles for the intensity of mountain blackberries and rasp-berries, and then a firm mineral-ity kicks in, along with the tannins, providing grounding structure. The finish lasts for a full minute. Winemaker Luc Morlet has really hit the jackpot with this dry, spec-tacularly complex young wine, which will develop for at least a decade. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $125

3794 William Fèvre 2008 Montmains Premier

Cru Domaine Fèvre (Chablis). A very taut wine. Yes, it has richness and weight with ripe fruits, but the main character is dominated by a tense line of acidity, of very crisp fruit and of an intense steely tex-ture. For aging over 4–5 years. Henriot Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $38

3895 Januik 2007 Champoux Vineyard Cab-

ernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). This includes grapes from Block One (the 1972 plant-ing) and several other more recent plantings at Cham-poux; essentially this is pure Cabernet Sauvignon. It smells like a fine Bordeaux, still very young and tight, with well-defined layers of flavor. Black cherry, cassis, lead pencil, smoke and baking spices are tightly stacked and particularly apparent in the aromas. Give this one a decade or more in the cellar; if you are drinking now, decant for at least two hours. —P.G. abv: NA Price: $50

39

95 Moone-Tsai 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). One sip is all it takes to fall in

love with this Cabernet, which contains a little Merlot. It’s rich and lush and authoritative on every level. The texture is soft as velvet, but the tannins are firm, back-ing up blackberry, cherry, chocolate, cassis, mineral and new oak flavors that are complex and linger long into the spicy finish. Such are the tannins that the wine is likely to age well through 2016, at least. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

4094 Poeira 2008 Red (Douro). Wonderfully bal-

anced and structured, this is a wine that gives a complete series of flavors from chocolate, black stone fruits, layers of wood and finally the essential acidity. Its texture is grainy, dusty, firm and ready to age for several years. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

41

95 Betz Family 2008 Père de Famille Caber-net Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Seduc-

tive and complex, the inviting aromas mix incense, blue-berries, cassis, licorice and threads of herb and graph-ite. Flavors are wrapped tightly and unfold gracefully through a long finish. The herbal side of Cabernet is noted without being intrusive. Classic, deep and expres-sive. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

42

94 La Rasina 2006 Brunello di Montalcino. La Rasina offers a beautifully dark and austere

expression of Brunello with almost exaggerated intensi-ty. The wine is dense, extracted and velvety with smooth cherry and vanilla backed by a firm tannic backbone. Drink after 2015. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $44

4394 Donelan 2009 Kobler Family Vineyard

Syrah (Green Valley). An amazing wine, mas-sively concentrated in fruit, yet beautifully balanced. Clearly one of the greatest California Syrahs of the vintage. Dry and complex, it shows intricate flavors of blackberries, Canadian bacon, mushu pork sauce, black pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Gorgeous and compel-ling, but far too young. Drink 2012–2018. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $45

44

95 Venge 2008 Bone Ash Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A beautiful,

brilliant but immature Cabernet. It’s massively rich in blackberry and cherry pie filling, cassis, dark chocolate and fine, smoky oak flavors, wrapped into thick but fine, sweet tannins. Shows elegance and finesse despite the power, but needs time. Best after 2014. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $76

4595 Adelsheim 2009 Nicholas Vineyard Pi-

not Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The best of a great flight of single-vineyard 2009 Pinots from Adelsheim, this new entry into the lineup is all muscle and black fruits. It is power-packed with dense, rich fla-vors, nuanced with exotic spices and black tea, moving into silky tannins and an extremely long, satisfying fin-ish. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $90

46

94 Fontanafredda 2007 Serralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Thanks to new ownership and re-

cent dynamic changes, the historic Fontanafredda es-tate is poised to bring us many beautiful surprises in the future. This gorgeous Nebbiolo from the opulent 2007 vintage delivers delicate floral aromas of red rose and vi-olet in front of espresso, chocolate, cola and black cher-ry. Drink after 2018. Palm Bay International. —M.L. abv: NA Price: $45

4794 Domaine Weinbach 2008 Altenbourg Pi-

not Gris (Alsace). Rich and sweet wine in character with a Vendange Tardive. It is gorgeous and opulent, while balanced and elegant. The acidity is in wonderful contrast to the smoky honey and orange zest flavors. A hint of bitterness suggests, for sure, that this wine will be even more wonderful when aged. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

4895 Louis Jadot 2005 Les Baudes Premier

Cru (Chambolle-Musigny). This is a won-derful wine, very ripe, the blackberry and sweet fruits all here. While the tannins are solid and concentrated, they are in the center of a lush, beautifully rich series of flavors that range from fruit to licorice to spice. The wine shows great aging potential. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $95

49

94 L‘Ecole No. 41 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Fragrant with smoky

red fruits, this tight, young, pure Cabernet Sauvignon brings a generous mix of raspberry, pomegranate and cherry fruit into play. The firm and supple tannins are folded in seamlessly, with hints of iron, coffee and choc-olate. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

5094 Benanti 2006 Serra della Contessa (Si-

cilia). A stellar, superb wine that embodies all the grace, power and charm of the Mount Etna volca-no in Sicily. This highly unique and distinctive territory has shaped an elegant expression of Nerello Mascalese (with 20% Nerello Cappuccio) offering aromas of wild berry set against delicately toasted pistachio nut. In the mouth, the wine is silky, compact and very persistent. Stellar Cellars Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $49

51

95 Kuleto Estate 2006 India Ink Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Here’s one for the

cellar, guaranteed. It shows all the classic hallmarks of an ageworthy Napa Cabernet. Dry, tannic and closed, with massively concentrated blackberry and cassis fla-vors, and a firm grounding of minerals. Very fine and

Post-Constitution BashAfter the U.S. Constitution was outlined, the

55 drafters celebrated with 54 bottles of Madeira, 60 bottles of claret, 8 bottles of whiskey, 22 bottles of Port, 8 bottles of hard cider, 12 beers and 7 rather large bowls of alcoholic punch.

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al-

la V

alle

y). I

n co

mpa

rison

with

the

2008

Cab

-er

net,

this

is th

e bi

gger

win

e, le

ss sl

eek,

mor

e ch

ewy.

As

it op

ens i

n th

e gl

ass,

the

arom

as d

ispla

y in

cens

e sc

ents

, an

d th

ere

is as

sert

ive,

blo

cky,

chew

y fr

uit—

espe

cial

ly

blac

k ch

erry

. The

tann

ins a

re a

lso b

igge

r, bl

ocki

er, m

ore

subs

tant

ial t

han

the

Cab

erne

t. W

ith h

ours

of b

reat

hing

tim

e, e

xotic

spic

es (s

affr

on a

nd m

ore)

em

erge

. —

P.G

. ab

v: 1

4.7%

P

rice

: $13

5

54

95 K

apcs

andy

Fam

ily W

iner

y 20

08

End

re

(You

ntvi

lle).

Her

e’s o

ne fo

r the

cella

r. It

’s a b

ig,

dry,

mus

cula

r w

ine,

ass

ertiv

e in

tan

nins

, with

min

eral

-dr

iven

bla

ckbe

rry

and

blac

k cu

rran

t fla

vors

. Mus

cula

r an

d in

tens

e, it

shou

ld p

rovi

de g

reat

drin

king

star

ting

in

2015

and

for

man

y ye

ars

afte

r. A

ver

y gr

eat e

xpre

ssio

n of

its v

iney

ard,

whi

ch is

bas

ical

ly th

e ol

d B

erin

ger S

tate

L

ane

Vine

yard

. —

S.H

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $90

55

95 S

ilvio

G

rass

o 20

07

Cia

bot

Man

zoni

(B

arol

o).

This

is a

win

e to

fal

l im

med

iate

ly

in lo

ve w

ith. H

ow c

an a

nyon

e re

sist

this

dens

ity, r

ich-

ness

in c

olor

and

con

cent

ratio

n? B

lack

spic

e an

d m

atur

e fr

uit a

rom

as a

re w

oven

aro

und

delic

ate

touc

hes

of r

ed

rose

, che

rry

cola

and

mes

quite

sm

oke.

The

win

e’s g

en-

erou

s per

siste

ncy

can

be c

ount

ed in

man

y lo

ng m

inut

es.

Drin

k af

ter

2018

. A M

arc

de G

razi

a se

lect

ion;

var

ious

A

mer

ican

impo

rter

s. —

M.L

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $93

56

94 G

ram

ercy

Cel

lars

200

9 Th

e Th

ird

Man

R

ed

(Col

umbi

a Va

lley)

. Th

is Pr

iora

t-lik

e bl

end

of 5

0% G

rena

che,

28%

Syr

ah, a

nd 2

2% M

ourv

è-dr

e is

pung

ent

and

spic

y, w

ith a

bit

of m

enth

ol in

the

no

se. S

uppl

e an

d lu

xurio

us fr

uit,

a m

ix o

f ras

pber

ry a

nd

blac

k fr

uits

, bak

ing

spic

es a

nd sw

eet b

arre

l flav

ors.

Pow

-er

ful a

nd ri

ch, t

his i

s a b

ig w

ine

with

toba

cco

and

clov

e hi

ghlig

hts a

nd a

littl

e he

at in

the

finish

. —

P.G

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $45

57

94 B

acal

hôa

Win

es o

f P

ortu

gal

2007

Pal

á-ci

o da

Bac

alhô

a (P

enín

sula

de

Set

úbal

).

A s

elec

tion

from

the

Qui

nta

da B

acal

hôa

vine

yard

, thi

s su

mpt

uous

win

e la

yers

the

dar

kest

fru

it fla

vors

with

a

stru

ctur

e th

at is

solid

, den

se a

nd p

ower

ful.

Juic

y pl

ums,

licor

ice

and

a fir

m, s

talk

y ed

ge g

o w

ith w

ood

agin

g an

d bo

ne–d

ry ta

nnin

s. A

ge fo

r 5-

6 ye

ars.

Adm

iral I

mpo

rts.

—R

.V.

abv:

14%

P

rice

: $49

58

94 E

mm

eric

h K

noll

2008

Rie

d Lo

iben

berg

G

rüne

r Ve

ltlin

er S

mar

agd

(Wac

hau)

. Th

e K

noll

Grü

ner

styl

e is

for

a hi

nt o

f st

eel,

dose

s of

min

-er

ality

and

not

too

muc

h or

nate

ness

des

pite

the

won

-de

rful

ly e

labo

rate

trad

ition

al b

ottle

labe

ls. T

he in

tens

e fr

uit,

spic

e an

d pe

ach

char

acte

r is

bala

nced

by

acid

ity,

a ta

ut, n

ervy

edg

e. I

t w

ill c

erta

inly

age

for

5–6

yea

rs.

Circ

o Vi

no.

—R

.V.

abv:

13.

5%

Pri

ce: $

50

59

94 R

ivet

to 2

007

Ser

ralu

nga

(Bar

olo)

. An

up-

and-

com

ing

star

of

Bar

olo

Serr

alun

ga, R

ivet

to

deliv

ers a

supe

rsiz

ed w

ine

with

imm

ense

con

cent

ratio

n an

d ro

ck-s

olid

stru

ctur

e. In

fact

, thi

s win

e ne

eds a

noth

-er

10–

15 y

ears

of a

ging

to c

ompl

ete

its lo

ng e

volu

tion.

A

lread

y pr

esen

t, ho

wev

er, a

re to

nic

tone

s of r

ed c

herr

y, co

ffee,

moc

ha, s

pice

and

cur

ed m

eat.

Vint

age

Impo

rts,

Inc.

—M

.L.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

50

60

94 Jo

el G

ott

2007

GO

TT 7

Cab

erne

t S

auvi

-gn

on (

Nap

a Va

lley)

. Sh

ows

a tig

htly

wou

nd

stru

ctur

e, w

ith b

ig,

hard

tan

nins

wra

pped

lik

e a

vise

ar

ound

fres

h fla

vors

of b

lack

berr

ies,

cher

ries a

nd c

assis

. Th

ere’s

a fi

rm, m

iner

ally

tang

of i

ron

at th

e co

re o

f thi

s

Mille

nnia

of

Exper

ience

Burg

undy

has

bee

n pr

oduc

ing

win

e fo

r ove

r 2,0

00 y

ears.

Prio

r to

the

Rom

ans c

onqu

erin

g th

e re

gion

in 5

1 B.

C., t

he C

elts

wer

e al

read

y pr

oduc

ing

win

e.

TOP

100

CELL

AR S

ELEC

TION

S 20

11

56

| W

INE

EN

THU

SIA

ST

| D

EC

EM

BE

R 1

, 2

01

1

agew

orth

y w

ine.

Bet

ter a

fter 2

015,

whe

n it

shou

ld b

egin

to

mel

low.

—S.

H.

abv:

14.

6%

Pri

ce: $

50

61

94 La

ura

Zaht

ila

2007

B

arlo

w

Vine

yard

s C

aber

net

Sau

vign

on

(Cal

isto

ga).

Ve

ry

dark

, ric

h an

d dr

amat

ic.

Mas

sivel

y co

nstr

ucte

d, w

ith

vast

res

erve

s of

bla

ckbe

rry

jam

, bl

acks

trap

mol

asse

s, m

ocha

, sm

oked

mea

t, m

ushu

plu

m s

auce

and

sw

eet,

smok

y oa

k. T

he ta

nnin

s ar

e bi

g, r

ipe

and

astr

inge

nt. A

gr

eat C

aber

net t

hat c

lear

ly n

eeds

ple

nty

of ti

me.

Drin

k 20

15 a

nd b

eyon

d. —

S.H

. ab

v: 1

4.2%

P

rice

: $50

62

94 A

vele

da 2

004

Gra

nde

Folli

es V

inha

s da

Q

uint

a da

Agu

eira

(B

eira

s). A

supe

rb, c

on-

cent

rate

d w

ine,

pow

ered

by

ripe

frui

ts t

hat

are

now

re

achi

ng th

eir p

eak.

The

win

e ha

s a d

ense

text

ure,

with

ric

h be

rry

and

swee

t pl

um f

ruits

, bitt

er c

hoco

late

and

so

lid, d

ark

tann

ins.

Age

for 5

–6 y

ears

. FJN

Fin

e W

ines

L

LC

. —

R.V

. ab

v: 1

4.5%

P

rice

: $50

63

95 Jo

seph

Dro

uhin

200

7 M

arqu

is d

e La

gu-

iche

M

orge

ot

Pre

mie

r C

ru

(Cha

ssa-

gne-

Mon

trac

het)

. Th

e m

agni

ficen

t w

ines

fro

m t

he

Mar

quis

de L

agui

che

esta

te a

re p

rodu

ced

by J

osep

h D

rouh

in. T

his M

orge

ot is

rich

, int

ense

, bea

utifu

lly c

on-

cent

rate

d. I

t ha

s to

ast,

apric

ot a

nd p

each

fru

its t

o go

with

its

tig

ht m

iner

al t

extu

re. D

elic

ious

now

, but

will

ag

e fo

r man

y ye

ars.

Dre

yfus

, Ash

by &

Co.

—R

.V.

abv:

13.

5%

Pri

ce: $

99

64

95 D

omai

ne d

e C

heva

lier

2008

Bla

nc (

Pes

-sa

c-Lé

ogna

n).

A s

uper

b w

ine.

Oily

text

ured

, ve

ry ri

ch, i

ts fr

uit r

ipe.

Pea

r, ho

ney

and

yello

w fr

uits

are

al

lied

with

taut

aci

dity

and

ligh

t hin

ts o

f woo

d. L

ikel

y to

ag

e ov

er m

any

year

s. —

R.V

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $10

0

65

95 H

esta

n 20

07 C

aber

net

Sau

vign

on (

Nap

a Va

lley)

. Ano

ther

exc

elle

nt C

aber

net f

rom

Hes

-ta

n. It

’s rip

er a

nd ju

icie

r tha

n th

e ’0

6, sh

owin

g th

e ba

by-

fat

of t

his

fam

ous

vint

age.

But

it’s

no le

ss c

ompl

ex o

r ag

ewor

thy,

just

drin

kabl

e ea

rlier

. Sh

ows

conc

entr

ated

bl

ackb

erry

, bl

ack

curr

ant,

anise

, lic

oric

e an

d sm

oky

oak

flavo

rs,

wra

pped

int

o dr

amat

ic,

thic

k, fi

rm t

an-

nins

. Sho

uld

deve

lop

over

the

next

dec

ade

and

beyo

nd.

—S.

H.

abv:

14.

6%

Pri

ce: $

100

66

94 G

rim

aldi

Bru

na 2

007

Bad

arin

a (B

arol

o).

Bar

olo

Bad

arin

a de

serv

es p

raise

for

the

inte

n-sit

y of

its

arom

as a

nd th

e fin

e qu

ality

of i

ts m

outh

feel

. B

old

oak

tone

s of

spi

ce a

nd to

aste

d ha

zeln

ut w

ill s

oon

fall

to th

e ba

ck o

f the

win

e’s b

right

frui

t and

col

a fla

vors

. G

ive

it tim

e, p

atie

nce

and

drin

k af

ter

2018

. Pre

miu

m

Bra

nds.

—M

.L.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

52

67

95 B

illec

art-

Sal

mon

20

00

Cuv

ée

Nic

olas

Fr

anço

is B

illec

art

Bru

t (C

ham

pagn

e).

A

win

e th

at s

trik

es a

gre

at b

alan

ce b

etw

een

its i

nten

se

frui

tines

s an

d a

pure

ste

ely

char

acte

r. It

mak

es it

a d

ry

Cha

mpa

gne,

whi

le i

t al

so h

as t

he r

ichn

ess

to m

ake

it a

grea

t win

e. I

t has

wei

ght,

inte

nsity

and

sev

eral

yea

rs

mor

e ag

ing.

T. E

dwar

d W

ines

Ltd

. —

R.V

. ab

v: 1

2%

Pri

ce: $

90

68

94 M

erry

Edw

ards

200

8 M

ered

ith E

stat

e M

é-th

ode

a L’

Anc

ienn

e P

inot

Noi

r (R

ussi

an

Riv

er V

alle

y).

An

enor

mou

s w

ine,

ric

h an

d co

mpl

ex

and

tann

ic e

noug

h to

cel

lar.

Mad

e fr

om th

e es

tate

vin

e-ya

rd i

n th

e Se

bast

opol

are

a, i

t flo

ods

the

mou

th w

ith

savo

ry c

herr

y, co

la, r

huba

rb, c

ocoa

and

cin

nam

on sp

ice

flavo

rs, w

rapp

ed in

to a

silk

y, ve

lvet

y te

xtur

e. F

eels

clas

-sic

, but

you

do

wan

t to

give

it s

ome

time.

Drin

k 20

12–

2016

. —

S.H

. ab

v: 1

4.4%

P

rice

: $54

69

93 C

hâte

au

la

Cam

inad

e 20

08

La

Com

-m

ande

ry (

Cah

ors)

. To

asty

aro

mas

are

fol

-lo

wed

by

inte

nse

blac

k pl

um fr

uits

twist

ed w

ith ta

nnin

s an

d po

lishe

d w

ith w

ood.

It’s

an

impr

essiv

e, p

ower

ful

win

e, w

ith a

com

plex

str

uctu

re.

Firm

at

this

stag

e, i

t ne

ed 4

–5 y

ears

at l

east

to a

ge. W

ine

Trad

ition

s. —

R.V

. ab

v: 1

3.5%

P

rice

: $22

70

94 La

Que

rcio

la 2

007

Don

na B

ianc

a (B

aro-

lo).

Wha

t a w

onde

rful

sur

prise

! Bar

olo

Don

na

Bia

nca

is a

beau

tiful

win

e w

ith a

long

list

of s

peci

al a

t-tr

ibut

es.

Firs

t is

the

win

e’s c

ompl

exity

, w

hich

shi

nes

thro

ugh

in t

he m

any

arom

as,

from

pre

ssed

vio

lets

to

Indi

an s

pice

. Sec

ond

is th

e w

ine’s

nat

ural

ric

hnes

s an

d sm

ooth

ness

of t

extu

re. T

hird

is it

s ab

ility

to a

ge a

long

tim

e in

you

r cel

lar.

Vign

aiol

i. —

M.L

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $55

71

94 D

omai

ne C

hand

on d

e B

riai

lles

2006

Ile

de

Ver

gele

sses

Pre

mie

r C

ru (

Per

nand

-Ve

rgel

esse

s).

A r

ipe,

red

ber

ry f

ruit-

flavo

red

win

e,

high

light

ed w

ith s

wee

t che

rrie

s. A

t thi

s yo

ung

stag

e, it

sh

ows m

ore

frui

t tha

n st

ruct

ure.

Tan

nins

are

her

e, li

kely

to

fles

h ou

t th

e w

ine

as it

dev

elop

s. F

or t

he m

omen

t, en

joy

the

grea

t sw

athe

s of

sw

eet

frui

t. D

avid

Bow

ler

Win

e. —

R.V

. ab

v: N

A

Pri

ce: $

53

Tanta

lize

Your

Tongue

Swee

t and

salty

com

bina

tions

mak

e fo

r a p

erfe

ct p

airin

g. Ju

st a

s a ch

ocol

ate

pean

ut b

utte

r cup

co

mbi

nes t

hese

two

tast

e se

nsat

ions

, a lu

scio

us S

aute

rnes

and

a h

unk

of R

oque

fort

will

do

the

sam

e.

58

| W

INE

EN

THU

SIA

ST

| D

EC

EM

BE

R 1

, 2

01

1

TOP

100

CELL

AR S

ELEC

TION

S 20

11

72

93 C

asa

Cad

aval

200

7 M

arqu

esa

de C

ada-

val

(Tej

o).

New

woo

d gi

ves

this

win

e a

pol-

ished

fee

l, its

ber

ry f

ruits

pus

hing

thr

ough

den

se t

an-

nins

. It i

s bal

ance

d in

the

sens

e th

at fr

uit a

nd w

ood

are

com

ing

wel

l to

geth

er, b

ut t

his

impr

essiv

e w

ine

need

s se

vera

l yea

rs’ a

ging

. VO

S Se

lect

ions

. —

R.V

. ab

v: 1

4%

Pri

ce: $

25

73

94 C

hâte

au G

isco

urs

2008

Mar

gaux

. A d

ense

w

ine,

pow

erfu

l whi

le a

lso e

lega

nt. I

t sh

ows

all

the

best

cha

ract

er o

f a g

rand

Mar

gaux

, with

fine

tann

ins

as w

ell a

s den

se st

ruct

ure.

It w

ill a

ge w

ell.

—R

.V.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

60

74

95 D

omai

ne C

hris

tian

Mor

eau

Pèr

e et

Fils

20

08 C

los

Des

Hos

pice

s D

ans

les

Clo

s G

rand

C

ru

(Cha

blis

).

This

Gra

nd C

ru w

ithin

a

Gra

nd C

ru is

a m

agni

ficen

t, op

ulen

t win

e. I

t has

all

the

pow

er o

f a g

reat

whi

te B

urgu

ndy,

the

richn

ess

allie

d to

m

iner

ality

and

then

giv

en w

eigh

t by

toas

t, ye

llow

frui

ts

and

a pu

re, s

trai

ght l

ine

of a

cidi

ty. F

rede

rick

Wild

man

&

Son

s, L

td.

—R

.V.

abv:

13%

P

rice

: $11

0

75

95 R

occa

di

Fr

assi

nello

20

08

Baf

fone

ro

(Mar

emm

a).

Baf

fone

ro (

“bla

ck m

usta

che”

) is

a pu

re e

xpre

ssio

n of

Mer

lot a

nd r

epre

sent

s a

new

gen

-er

atio

n of

exc

iting

supe

r Tus

cans

from

the

sout

hern

par

t of

Tus

cany

. Roc

ca d

i Fra

ssin

ello

is b

ettin

g on

this

win

e to

mat

ch th

e gr

eate

st I

talia

n M

erlo

ts a

nd th

is fir

st v

in-

tage

is v

ery

impr

essiv

e in

deed

. Sof

t ch

erry

is f

ollo

wed

by

cho

cola

te, e

xotic

spi

ce, t

obac

co a

nd c

love

. Via

s Im

-po

rts.

—M

.L.

abv:

13.

5%

Pri

ce: $

120

76

94 E

yrie

200

7 R

eser

ve P

inot

Noi

r (D

unde

e H

ills)

. Th

e E

yrie

res

erve

is

a sin

gle-

vine

yard

se

lect

ion

from

the

esta

te’s

olde

st v

ines

, pla

nted

bet

wee

n 19

67 a

nd 1

973.

The

long

evity

of t

hese

win

es is

a p

rove

n fa

ct; t

hey

evol

ve (

and

gene

rally

impr

ove)

for

dec

ades

. Th

is is

alre

ady

delic

ious

, sm

oky,

alm

ost

ethe

real

, with

tr

uly

Bur

gund

ian

fines

se a

nd d

epth

. Thi

s win

e, a

s muc

h or

mor

e th

an a

ny o

ther

, exp

ress

es t

he p

oten

tial o

f O

r-eg

on P

inot

Noi

r to

app

roac

h th

e m

ajes

ty o

f fin

e B

ur-

gund

y. —

P.G

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $62

77

95 C

hâte

au

Pon

tet-

Can

et

2008

P

auill

ac.

Smoo

th, w

ith d

ense

tann

ins

hidd

en b

ehin

d th

e rip

e, p

ure

frui

t, th

is im

port

ant w

ine

show

s cl

ass

and

an

impe

ccab

le b

alan

ce o

f fru

it an

d ta

nnin

. Ric

h as

wel

l as

stru

ctur

ed, t

his i

s a b

eaut

iful w

ine.

—R

.V.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

125

78

95 A

lber

t B

icho

t 20

05

Dom

aine

du

C

los

Fran

tin

Aux

M

alco

nsor

ts

Pre

mie

r C

ru

(Vos

ne-R

oman

ée).

A su

perb

win

e, th

e ta

nnin

s car

ry-

ing

alon

g th

e de

nse

stru

ctur

e w

ith e

ase

and

grac

e. T

he

purit

y of

the

ripe

berr

y fr

uit i

s ver

y m

arke

d, w

ith a

cidi

ty

givi

ng fr

eshn

ess t

o th

e sw

eet w

ine.

The

who

le e

nsem

ble

is de

velo

ping

wel

l, bu

t w

ill n

eed

man

y ye

ars’

agin

g. A

F

renc

h Pa

rado

x. —

R.V

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $11

5

79

93 R

&A

Pfa

ffl 2

010

Hun

dsle

iten

Grü

ner

Velt-

liner

(Wei

nvie

rtel

). R

ich,

smoo

th a

nd o

pule

nt

win

e fr

om t

he t

op H

unds

leite

n vi

neya

rd.

It i

s dr

iven

by

a ta

ut li

ne o

f aci

dity

that

is s

urro

unde

d by

rip

e pe

ar

and

mel

on fl

avor

s and

a ro

unde

d, c

once

ntra

ted

text

ure.

F

ruit

is rig

ht to

the

fore

in a

refin

ed w

ay, a

nd p

eppe

r is

on th

e fin

ish. P

alm

Bay

Inte

rnat

iona

l. —

R.V

. ab

v: 1

3%

Pri

ce: $

31

80

97 D

omai

ne

Duj

ac

2009

B

onne

s-M

ares

. F

irm, b

ut s

o ge

nero

us a

nd e

lega

nt. T

here

is a

n et

here

al p

erfu

med

cha

ract

er,

alon

g w

ith m

iner

al a

nd

eart

h no

tes.

The

tann

ins

are

inte

grat

ing

wel

l in

thi

s po

wer

ful,

impr

essiv

e, a

gew

orth

y w

ine.

The

Sor

ting

Ta-

ble.

—R

.V.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

344

81

97 D

omai

ne

Lefla

ive

2008

B

ienv

enue

s B

âtar

d-M

ontr

ache

t. A

mar

velo

usly

int

ense

w

ine,

the

Cha

rdon

nay

singi

ng w

ith li

ght t

oast

and

aci

d-ity

. The

win

e ha

s la

yers

of

gree

n ap

ple,

spi

ce, a

tig

ht

text

ure

and

oran

ge ze

st h

ighl

ight

s. A

ge fo

r at l

east

seve

n ye

ars.

Wils

on D

anie

ls L

td.

—R

.V.

abv:

14%

P

rice

: $41

0

Ult

imate

Cellar

Sele

ctio

nIn

186

7, th

e w

orld

’s ol

dest

bot

tle w

as

unea

rthed

nea

r the

tow

n of

Spe

yer,

Germ

any,

durin

g th

e ex

cava

tion

of a

vi

neya

rd. T

he b

ottle

has

bee

n tra

ced

to

the

325

A.D.

vin

tage

and

is d

ispla

yed

at

the

Hist

orisc

hes M

useu

m d

er P

falz.

60

| W

INE

EN

THU

SIA

ST

| D

EC

EM

BE

R 1

, 2

01

1

TOP

100

CELL

AR S

ELEC

TION

S 20

11

82

94 C

hâte

au d

u C

èdre

200

7 Le

Cèd

re (

Ca-

hors

). H

igh

toas

t aro

mas

are

fille

d ou

t on

the

pala

te w

ith r

ich,

con

cent

rate

d fr

uit

and

bitte

r ch

oco-

late

flav

ors.

This

pow

erfu

l, im

pres

sive

win

e is

spic

y an

d de

nsel

y pa

cked

. At

this

stag

e, it

fee

ls ha

rd e

dged

, but

th

at w

ill fi

ll ou

t in

the

next

3–4

yea

rs a

s the

win

e br

oad-

ens o

ut. M

artin

e’s W

ines

. —

R.V

. ab

v: 1

3.5%

P

rice

: $60

83

94 C

hâte

au P

avie

Mac

quin

200

8 S

aint

-Em

il-io

n. A

n im

pres

sive

win

e, b

eaut

ifully

stru

ctur

ed,

neve

r to

o po

wer

ful,

very

ele

gant

. If i

t fee

ls a

little

aus

-te

re a

t thi

s st

age,

that

is b

ecau

se th

e st

ruct

ure

is do

mi-

natin

g th

e fr

uit.

Giv

e it

5–6

year

s and

the

full

sple

ndor

w

ill b

e re

veal

ed.

—R

.V.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

80

84

97 G

eh.

Rat

D

r. vo

n B

asse

rman

n-Jo

rdan

20

08 D

eide

shei

mer

Hoh

enm

orge

n R

ies-

ling

Troc

kenb

eere

naus

lese

(P

falz

). E

xcee

ds e

ven

this

prod

ucer

’s st

unni

ng b

eere

naus

lese

, fe

atur

ing

an

even

mor

e in

toxi

catin

g pe

rfum

e of

hon

ey, d

ried

apri-

cots

and

can

died

pin

eapp

le, w

ith s

light

ly m

ore

acid

ity

to p

rovi

de b

alan

ce t

o th

e ex

tra

leve

l of

sw

eetn

ess,

so

muc

h so

that

this

win

e co

mes

acr

oss a

s ref

resh

ing

on th

e fin

ish, d

espi

te th

e in

cred

ibly

hig

h le

vels

of su

gar.

Drin

k no

w–2

050,

pos

sibly

long

er. V

alck

enbe

rg I

nter

natio

nal,

Inc.

—J.C

. ab

v: 6

.5%

P

rice

: $24

5/37

5 m

l

85

98 C

hâte

au H

aut-

Bri

on 2

007

Bla

nc (

Pes

sac-

Léog

nan)

. The

pal

ate

open

s slo

wly,

offe

ring

an

initi

al c

itrus

cha

ract

er, f

ollo

wed

by

woo

d an

d th

en, fi

-na

lly, w

onde

rful

ly ri

ch b

ut ta

ut fr

uit.

Ther

e is

still

a to

ast

char

acte

r her

e, w

ith a

pric

ots a

nd p

ear o

n to

p of

the

cit-

rus,

but i

t is s

till o

nly

just

dev

elop

ing.

In 1

0–15

yea

rs, i

t w

ill b

e a

mag

nific

ent w

ine.

—R

.V.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

800

86

94 D

omai

ne d

e C

ourc

el 2

007

Les

Rug

iens

P

rem

ier

Cru

(P

omm

ard)

. Thi

s ha

s th

e gr

eat

arom

atic

com

plex

ity y

ou e

xpec

t fr

om R

ugie

ns.

Gen

-er

ous

and

full

text

ured

, thi

s is

a fu

ll-bo

died

, rou

nded

w

ine.

Sw

eet

red

frui

ts, t

ouch

ed b

y sp

ice,

are

wel

l bal

-an

ced

with

a s

trea

k of

aci

dity

. W

ait

for

four

yea

rs,

at

leas

t. C

alve

rt W

oodl

ey F

ine

Win

es &

Spi

rits.

—R

.V.

abv:

NA

Pri

ce: $

80

87

93 Jo

an S

imó

2006

Les

Ere

s Vi

nyes

Vel

les

(Pri

orat

). P

unge

nt u

p fr

ont,

with

dry

bay

ber-

ry, l

eath

er, j

am n

otes

and

sch

isty

min

eral

ity. T

he p

al-

ate

is al

l abo

ut s

truc

ture

, sna

ppy

acid

s, sin

ewy

tann

ins

and

livel

y, fu

ll-fo

rce

red

frui

t and

plu

m fl

avor

s. L

ike

in

the

past

, thi

s is

a to

p-no

tch

Prio

rato

that

hol

ds it

s fo

rm

thro

ugh

the

acid

-driv

en fi

nish

. B

est

from

201

1–20

15.

Fin

e E

stat

es F

rom

Spa

in.

—M

.S.

abv:

14.

6%

Pri

ce: $

66

88

96 G

érar

d B

ertr

and

1929

Le

gend

Vin

tage

(M

aury

). W

ith o

nly

795

bottl

es p

rodu

ced,

this

is a

spec

ial t

reat

. Alth

ough

it’s

read

y to

drin

k no

w, it

has

th

e st

ruct

ure

and

pedi

gree

to a

ge fo

r de

cade

s. L

oade

d w

ith r

ich

nut a

nd r

anci

o fla

vors

, the

re’s

so m

uch

goin

g

on; a

rom

as o

f dr

ied

oran

ge p

eel,

ging

erbr

ead,

toa

sted

m

acad

amia

nut

and

a d

rizzl

e of

mol

asse

s le

ad in

to fl

a-vo

rs o

f drie

d re

d pl

um a

nd fi

g du

sted

with

Nut

ella

pow

-de

r and

soft

whi

te p

eppe

r. C

ompl

ex, s

picy

and

full,

with

an

end

less

fini

sh. G

érar

d B

ertr

and

USA

. —

L.B

. ab

v: 1

6%

Pri

ce: $

380

89

94 M

aiso

n Je

ssia

ume

2008

Cha

mbe

rtin

. A

t th

e pi

nnac

le o

f G

evre

y-C

ham

bert

in,

Cha

m-

bert

in G

rand

Cru

pro

duce

s im

men

sely

pow

erfu

l win

es.

This

Jess

iaum

e fit

s the

pro

file

wel

l, w

hile

also

hav

ing

de-

licio

us ju

icin

ess

to g

o w

ith th

e da

rk ta

nnin

s an

d ac

idity

. Th

e re

sult

is st

ylish

as

wel

l as

conc

entr

ated

. Age

for

10

year

s at l

east

. USA

Win

e W

est.

—R

.V.

abv:

13%

P

rice

: $11

5

90

93 B

odeg

a C

aten

a Za

pata

200

7 C

aten

a A

lta

Mal

bec

(Men

doza

). O

ne s

niff

tells

you

ple

n-ty

: Th

ere’s

attr

activ

e sp

ice,

cof

fee

and

leat

her

to g

o w

ith r

ich

mol

asse

s an

d br

oad

blac

k fr

uit

arom

as. T

he

pala

te m

aint

ains

bal

ance

due

to fi

ne, f

resh

aci

dity

, and

th

e fla

vor p

rofil

e br

ings

moc

ha, c

offe

e, b

erry

, plu

m a

nd

toas

t. D

elic

ious

, dee

p, la

yere

d an

d re

fined

. Will

age

for

at le

ast 5

–6 y

ears

, but

bes

t fro

m 2

012–

2014

. Win

ebow

. —

M.S

. ab

v: 1

4%

Pri

ce: $

50

91

93 M

arca

rini

20

07

Bru

nate

(B

arol

o).

This

Bar

olo

from

the

Bru

nate

cru

sho

ws

gorg

eous

ch

arac

teris

tics

of m

atur

e fr

uit,

spic

e, n

atur

al r

ubbe

r, as

phal

t, ta

r an

d ro

ot b

eer.

The

win

e’s p

erso

nalit

y is

mar

ked

by a

com

fort

ing,

alm

ost f

amili

ar te

rrito

ry-d

riv-

en f

eel t

hat

reca

lls t

he g

reat

est

Neb

biol

o-ba

sed

win

es

from

Pie

dmon

t. Sa

ve t

his

bottl

e in

you

r ce

llar

for

10

year

s or m

ore.

Em

pson

(USA

) Ltd

. —

M.L

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $54

Napole

on’s

Sw

eet

Tooth

Afte

r Nap

oleo

n Bo

napa

rte’s

defe

at a

t W

ater

loo,

the

Fren

ch e

mpe

ror t

urne

d to

the

reve

red

Sout

h Af

rican

des

sert

win

e Vi

n de

Con

stan

ce to

eas

e hi

s qu

alm

s.

61

| W

INE

EN

THU

SIA

ST

| D

EC

EM

BE

R 1

, 2

01

1

TOP

100

CELL

AR S

ELEC

TION

S 20

11

92

94 H

anze

ll 20

07 A

mba

ssad

or’s

195

3 Vi

ne-

yard

Cha

rdon

nay

(Son

oma

Valle

y). S

how

s th

e dr

ynes

s, ac

idity

and

tigh

tly w

ound

min

eral

ity o

f all

Han

zell’s

you

ng C

hard

onna

ys, b

ut w

ith a

dep

th o

f ci

t-ru

s an

d ap

ricot

frui

t tha

t mar

ks it

as

a re

serv

e. I

t rea

lly

war

rant

s tim

e in

the

cella

r. B

est a

fter

2013

, and

sho

uld

deve

lop

for s

ever

al m

ore

year

s. —

S.H

. ab

v: 1

4.3%

P

rice

: $13

0

93

93 E

dgeb

asto

n 20

08

GS

Cab

erne

t S

auvi

-gn

on (

Ste

llenb

osch

). H

eart

y an

d co

mpl

ex,

this

beau

tiful

ly in

tens

e ye

t bal

ance

d C

ab is

beg

ging

for

som

e tim

e in

the

cel

lar.

Stro

ng a

rom

as o

f ca

ssis,

for

-re

st b

errie

s, lic

oric

e, c

love

and

bitt

ersw

eet

choc

olat

e flo

od th

e no

se, w

hile

flav

ors o

f bla

ck p

lum

, lea

ther

hid

e,

roas

ted

coco

a ni

bs a

nd c

igar

box

spic

e un

fold

in th

e lu

sh

mou

th a

nd t

rans

ition

thr

ough

to

the

long

fini

sh. W

ith

ever

ythi

ng s

o pr

opor

tiona

tely

big

and

pow

erfu

l, gi

ve

this

until

201

4–20

18. S

outh

ern

Star

z, In

c. —

L.B

. ab

v: 1

5%

Pri

ce: $

60

94

96 S

t. U

rban

s-H

of 2

008

Leiw

ener

Lau

ren-

tiusl

ay R

iesl

ing

Bee

rena

usle

se (

Mos

el-

Saa

r-R

uwer

). F

rom

a v

inta

ge n

ot k

now

n fo

r its

supe

r-sw

eet

sele

ctio

ns, t

his

win

e is

a re

vela

tion.

Hon

ey a

nd

berg

amot

not

es m

ingl

e ea

sily

on th

e no

se, w

hile

the

pal-

ate

unfo

lds t

o re

veal

laye

rs o

f hon

ey, d

ried

apric

ots a

nd

oran

ge m

arm

alad

e. I

t’s r

ich,

visc

ous

and

conc

entr

ated

w

ithou

t any

hea

vine

ss, w

ith a

fini

sh th

at’s

swee

t and

lin-

gerin

g. T

his s

houl

d ag

e th

roug

h 20

40 e

asily

. H

B W

ine

Mer

chan

ts.

—J.C

. ab

v: 7

.5%

P

rice

: $17

5/37

5 m

l

95

94 D

omai

ne d

e la

Pou

sse

d’O

r 20

09 C

orto

n C

los

du R

oi (

Cor

ton)

. A p

ower

ful w

ine,

ver

y st

ruct

ured

with

woo

d, c

offe

e no

tes a

nd d

ark

tann

ins.

It

feel

s ex

trac

ted,

alth

ough

the

wei

ght o

f fru

it is

cert

ainl

y en

ough

to h

andl

e th

at. I

t’s fo

r th

e lo

ng h

aul,

a co

ncen

-tr

ated

win

e th

at n

eeds

at l

east

10

year

s. N

orth

Ber

kele

y Im

port

s. —

R.V

. ab

v: N

A P

rice

: $16

3

96

92 B

roke

nwoo

d 20

07 O

akey

Cre

ek S

émil-

lon

(Hun

ter

Valle

y).

Of

Bro

kenw

ood’

s th

ree

curr

ent-

rele

ase

Sem

illon

s, th

is on

e ge

ts th

e no

d as

the

mos

t com

plet

e. It

’s lig

ht to

med

ium

in w

eigh

t, bu

t oh

so

long

and

prec

ise o

n th

e fin

ish, a

nd in

tens

e ye

t see

min

gly

tran

spar

ent,

like

spid

er’s

silk,

with

flee

ting

glim

pses

of

wet

sto

nes

and

mos

s. Tr

y be

twee

n 20

15 a

nd 2

025.

Old

B

ridge

Cel

lars

. —

J.C.

abv:

11.

5%

Pri

ce: $

32

97

92 G

lene

lly 2

008

Lady

May

Cab

erne

t Sau

vi-

gnon

(S

imon

sber

g-S

telle

nbos

ch).

It’s

re-

ally

a sh

ame

that

onl

y 25

cas

es o

f thi

s win

e w

ere

impo

rt-

ed, a

s it’s

a fa

ntas

tic C

ab th

at’s

sure

to c

ompa

re fa

vora

bly

to s

ome

of y

our

favo

rites

. B

lack

cur

rant

lea

f, fe

nnel

, cr

ushe

d vi

olet

and

drie

d to

bacc

o ar

e in

tric

atel

y w

oven

in

to th

e da

rk fr

uit a

rom

as. T

he m

ediu

m-w

eigh

t mou

th

has

a te

xtur

e lik

e cr

ushe

d ve

lvet

, with

firm

tann

ins

and

asse

rtiv

e fla

vors

of c

assis

, cig

ar a

nd e

spre

sso

that

ling

er

endl

essly

. Str

ong

and

a bi

t tig

ht; t

ry h

oldi

ng a

noth

er 2

–5

year

s. C

ape

Cla

ssic

s. —

L.B

. ab

v: 1

4.5%

P

rice

: $50

98

92 Tr

apic

he 2

008

Viña

Cri

stin

a y

Bib

iana

Co-

lett

o S

ingl

e Vi

neya

rd M

albe

c (M

endo

za).

A

littl

e bi

t hic

kory

-dom

inat

ed o

n th

e bo

uque

t, bu

t also

gi

ving

bal

sam

ic n

otes

, bla

ckbe

rry

and

choc

olat

e m

int.

The

pala

te is

line

ar d

ue t

o a

stre

ak o

f cu

tting

aci

dity

, w

hile

the

pala

te is

also

sna

ppy

with

wild

ras

pber

ry a

nd

brig

ht p

lum

flav

ors a

nd p

lent

y of

woo

d ta

nnin

. A to

asty

fin

ish w

ith e

spre

sso

and

choc

olat

e is

fine

and

long

. D

rink

now

thro

ugh

2017

. Fre

deric

k W

ildm

an &

Son

s, L

td.

—M

.S.

abv:

14.

5%

Pri

ce: $

55

99

91 P

enfo

lds

2008

Bin

389

Cab

erne

t S

auvi

-gn

on-S

hira

z (S

outh

A

ustr

alia

).

Penf

olds

C

hief

Win

emak

er P

eter

Gag

o is

enth

usia

stic

abo

ut h

is 20

08 S

hira

zes,

incl

udin

g th

is bl

end

of 5

2% C

aber

net

and

48%

Shi

raz.

Bin

389

con

tinue

s to

rep

rese

nt e

xcel

-le

nt v

alue

in a

cel

lar-

wor

thy

red;

it’s

richl

y fr

uite

d, w

ith

oak

in m

atch

ing

inte

nsity

yet

not

jam

my

or o

aky,

and

the

velv

ety

finish

last

s a

good

long

tim

e. D

rink

now

–202

5,

and

prob

ably

bey

ond.

Tre

asur

y W

ine

Est

ates

. —

J.C.

abv:

14.

5%

Pri

ce: $

36

10

094

Num

anth

ia-T

erm

es, S

.L. 2

008

Term

anth

ia

(Tor

o). L

ush

and

clas

sy, w

ith e

arth

y bl

ackb

erry

, ha

rd s

pice

, cho

cola

te a

nd le

mon

pee

l aro

mas

. The

pal

-at

e is

a m

ile d

eep

and

tann

ic, b

ut it

’s no

t to

o ha

rd o

r m

ean,

and

it ta

stes

fant

astic

, with

ripe

bla

ckbe

rry,

choc

-ol

ate,

spi

ce a

nd t

oast

flav

ors.

Com

plex

and

mas

culin

e,

with

toba

cco

and

woo

dspi

ce o

n th

e fin

ish. D

rink

from

20

12 t

hrou

gh 2

016.

Moë

t Hen

ness

y U

SA.

—M

.S.

abv:

14.

5%

Pri

ce: $

200

For a

PD

F of

the

Top

100

Ce

llar S

elec

tion

s lis

t,

visi

t win

emag

.com

/201

1cel

lar

The

Bra

in is

to B

lam

e!Ev

er fe

el li

ke a

fter t

astin

g m

any

win

es th

ey a

ll st

art t

o ta

ste

the

sam

e? W

hile

man

y pe

ople

ass

ume

thei

r tas

te b

uds a

nd

sens

e of

smel

l gro

w ti

red,

rese

arch

ers b

elie

ve th

e br

ain’

s co

ncen

tratio

n is

to b

lam

e. Fo

r rej

uven

atio

n, ta

ke a

shor

t br

eak

and

allo

w y

our m

ind

to re

st.