3 in 1 drill press upgrade
TRANSCRIPT
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3-IN-1DRILL
PRESS
UPGRADE
2013 August Home Publishing Co.
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Making a drill press more useful
is one of the bigger shop chal-lenges. And when you have to
move the drill press, it can belike wrestling a monster. Another
problem is the small table on mostdrill presses isnt really designedfor woodworking.
A solution for each of theseproblems is shown at right. First,
a cabinet with full-extensiondrawers keeps all those accesso-ries at hand. A mobile base makes
moving the drill press a breeze.And best of all, the large table
makes the drill press ideal forwoodworking tasks.
storagesolutions
Get storage,
mobility, andaccuracy fromthese threeuseful add-ons.
3-in-1Drill
PressUpgrade
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}Nesting Bases. The storage
cabinet wraps around the drill press
column and hides the mobile base
Exploded View DetailsOVERALL DIMENSIONS: 2012"D x 18"W x 538"H (BASE
2134"D x 2234"W x 28"H (CABINET12"D x 30"W x 4"H (TABLE & FENCE
ROUTED RECESSES
KEEP DRILL BITS
FROM ROLLING
ONTO THE FLOOR
TURN TO PAGE 7 TO
BUILD THE
DRILL PRESS
AUXILIARY TABLE
MOBILE BASE
MAINTAINS A LOW
CENTER OF GRAVITY
AND INCORPORATES
LEVELERS TO KEEP
DRILL PRESS STABLE
LARGE ROLLERS
MAKE MOVING
THE DRILL PRESS
SAFE AND EASY
BASE OF STORAGE UNIT
FITS OVER MOBILE BASE
CUBBIES OFFER
PLENTY OF
STORAGE FOR
LARGER ITEMS
LARGE DRAWERS O
FULL-EXTENSION SLIDEMAKE DRAWER CONTENT
EASILY ACCESSIBL
WIDE WORKSURFACE
PROVIDES CONVENIENT
ACCESS TO OFTEN-USED
ACCESSORIES
FRONTVIEW
STORAGE
CABINET
BASE DRILL PRESS
MOBILE BASE
STORAGE CABINET
DRILL PRESS
STAND
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Adding a mobile base to a drill
press can make it easier to relocatethe tool or simply clean under-
neath. This mobile base has several
worthwhile features besides beingeasy to build.
First, the low center of gravitykeeps the drill press stable and
less likely to tip. The large roll-ers make it easy to move around
the shop, though youll still wantto keep the top-heavy drill pressunder control as you move it.
Finally, the levelers lock the drillpress in place for stability.
Simple Construction. Themobile base starts with a plywood
panel. Two thick cleats attachedto the upper face help bear theweight of the drill press. The
wheels are fastened to the cleats.Wheel blocking adds stiffness and
strength plus provides convenientmounting points for the levelers
and their knobs.
Base. Youll start by sizing thewidth of the plywood base panelto fit your drill press, adding an
extra 212" to account for the cleats(Figure 1). Drill the series of coun-
tersunk holes on the bottom face.These holes are used to attach the
cleats youll work on next.
Cleats. I cut the cleats to sizeand drilled stopped pilot holes for
the lag screws that serve as wheeaxles. At this point, you can attachthe two cleats to the base with
glue and screws.
Wheel Blocking. The two
pieces of wheel blocking comenext. Theyre shown in Figure2 and look like the fenders on
an automobile. I cut the roughblanks to size and then drilled the
holes for the levelers. A hole sawmakes it easy to rough out the
cutout around the wheels. Theband saw makes quick work ocompleting the shape.
After a little sanding, apply glueand clamp the wheel blocking to
the base and cleats. Youll wanto make sure the top edges are
flush with the cleats as you applyclamping pressure.
Final Details. The last few
details involve rounding over
the top corners and then installing the hardware. To round overthe corners, I turned to the routertable. Flip the base upside down
to rout the 12" roundover illus
trated in Figure 2a.Figures 1 and 2 show you
how the wheels and levelers areinstalled. After applying a cleafinish, you can attach the base to
your drill press. I used a pair of lagscrews to do this.
{ Stability. Moving a top-heavy drill press can be a chore. This
mobile base not only makes the task easier, but once it's in place, the
levelers lock it in position and add stability.
mobile
Base
A
#8 x 1!/2" FhWOODSCREW
BASE(15!/2" x 20!/2" - #/4" Ply.)
B
CLEAT(1!/4" x 3" - 20!/2")
3"-DIA.WHEEL
#/8" x 2"LAG SCREWw/ WASHERS
1!/2
!/2"-RAD.
!/4
NOTE: ENLARGEAXLE BORE INWHEELS TO #/8"-Dia.
FRONT VIEW
CLEAT
BASE
NOTE:GLUE AND
SCREWTHE CLEAT
IN PLACE
a.
SIDE VIEW
1
2#/4
1#/4"-RAD.
#/4"-RAD.
5!/4
!/2"-RAD.
3!/4
4
a.
C
WHEEL BLOCKING(1!/4" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")
C
!/4"-20STAR KNOB
!/4"-20 x 4!/2"THREADED ROD
!/4"-20 T-NUT
!/4"-20 LEVELER
!/2"ROUNDOVER
%/16"-DIA.HOLE
2 FIGURE
1 FIGURE
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Building the storage cabinet foryour drill press starts with the
base. Youll find the constructionpretty similar to the mobile baseon the previous page. Its basically
a box with wheels that fits like aglove over the mobile base.
The details of the construc-tion are shown in Figure 3 above.
A three-sided box is built with abase top, two sides, and a front.The wheels and blocking are sand-
wiched between outer skirts andthe sides of the base. The wheels
are attached with steel pins thatserve as axles.
Base Top. Begin by cutting thetop to size. The U-shaped notchthat wraps around the column
can be cut with a jig saw andsanded smooth.
Side Assemblies. In order todrill the holes for the steel axles eas-
ily and more accurately, I workedon the side assemblies next. Thisinvolves cutting the sides to size
and rabbeting the top edge forattaching the base.
To make the wheel blocking, Iused a hole saw to make the cut-out that surrounds the wheels.
With that done, you can cut the
skirts to final sizeand glue them to thewheel blocking (Fig-
ure 3). After the glue dries, head tothe router table to round over the
edges with a 12" radius, as shownin Figures 3 and 3a.
Glue this sub-assembly to thesides then drill the axle holes.
The last piece to cut is the front.Its rabbeted along the top andends to join with the top of the
base and sides.After assembling the base, you
can install the wheels with steelpins epoxied in place.
BASE TOP(19!/4" x 21" - #/4" Ply.)
HG F
D
!/4" x 2"STEEL PIN
SIDE(#/4" x 5#/4" - 21")
E
FRONT(#/4" x 5#/4" - 19#/4")
WHEEL BLOCKING(1" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")
SKIRT(!/2" x 3#/4" - 20!/2")
3"-DIA.WHEEL
!/2"ROUNDOVER
!/2"-RAD.
5
7!/8
8!/2
2!/2"-RAD.
NOTE: SEEPHOTO PAGE 2
FRONT VIEW
BASE
TOPWHEEL
BLOCKING
SKIRT
STEEL
PIN
SIDE
!/2
#/4
a.
SIDE VIEW
BASE TOP
SIDEWHEELBLOCKING
WHEEL
FRONT
3!/2
2#/4
!/2
#/4
1
1#/4"-RAD.
c.
TOP
VIEW
WHEEL
BLOCKING
SKIRT
FRONT
SIDE
WHEEL
STEEL
PIN
!/4!/2
!/4
b.
Materials & HardwareMOBILE BASE
A Base (1) 1512 x 2012- 34Ply.
B Cleat (2) 114x 3- 2012C Wheel Blocking (2) 114x 334- 2012
STORAGE CABINET
D Base Top (1) 191
4x 21 -3
4Ply.E Sides (2) 34x 534- 21
F Front (1) 34x 534- 1934G Wheel Blocking (2) 1x 334- 2012H Skirts (2) 12 x 334- 2012I Top/Bottom (2) 1234 x 1914- 34Ply.
J Sides (2) 1234 x 21 - 34Ply.
K Back (1) 1914 x 2012- 34Ply.
L Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 12x 214- 11
M Sm. Drawer Frts./Backs (4) 12x 214- 1634N Sm. False Fronts (2) 1818x 21516- 34 Ply.
O Med. Drawer Sides (2) 12x 478- 11
P Med. Drawer Frts./Backs (2) 12x 478- 1634
Q Med. False Front (1) 1818x 5716- 34 Ply.
R Large Drawer Sides (2) 12x 714- 11
S Lg. Drawer Fronts/Backs (2) 12x 714- 1634T Large False Front (1) 1818x 778- 34 Ply.
U Drawer Bottoms (4) 1012 x 1634- 14Hdbd.
V Tops/Bottoms (4) 738 x 8 - 34Ply.
W Sides (4) 73
8 x 21 -3
4Ply.X Backs (2) 8 x 2012- 34Ply.
Y Shelves (4) 718 x 8 - 34Ply.
Z Shelf Rails (4) 38 x 114- 7
AA Cabinet Top (1) 2014x 2134- 34Ply.
TABLE & FENCE
BB Base (1) 12 x 30 - 34Ply.
CC Top (2) 12 x 13116- 14Hdbd.
DD Insert (1) 5 x 12 - 14Hdbd.
EE Fence (1) 212x 30 - 112Ply.
FF Fence Face (1) 212x 30 - 14Hdbd.
(8) 3" Wheels
(4) 38" x 2" Lag Screws
(10) 14" Washers
(6) 14"-20 Star Knobs
(4) 14"-20 x 1"-dia. Levelers
(4) 14"-20 x 412" Threaded Rod
(4)1
4"-20 T-Nuts (10) #8 x 112" Fh Woodscrews
(4) 14" x 214" Steel Rod
(4 pr.) 10" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides w/Screws
(16) #6 x 34" Fh Woodscrews
(22) #8 x 114" Fh Woodscrews
(4) Sash Pulls
(2) 14"-20 x 314" Flange Bolts
(4) 516"-18 T-Nuts
(4) 516" Washers
(4) 516"-18 Hex Bolts (to attach table)
3FIGUREstorage cabinet
Base
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DRAWER BOTTOM(10!/2" x 16#/4" - !/4" Hdbd.)
4&/8
M
L
T
S
R
Q
P
O
N
O
#6 x #/4" FhWOODSCREW
U
NOTE: DRAWER FRONTS, BACKS, AND SIDESMADE FROM !/2"-THICK HARDWOOD.DRAWER FALSE FRONTS MADE FROM #/4" PLYWOOD.DRAWER BOTTOMS MADE FROM !/4" HARDBOARD.
10" FULL-EXTENSIONDRAWER SLIDE
N
S
LARGE DRAWER
FALSE FRONT(18!/8" x 7&/8" - #/4" Ply.)
LARGE DRAWERSIDE
(!/2" x 7!/4" - 11")
R
MEDIUM DRAWERFALSE FRONT
(18!/8" x 5&/16" - #/4" Ply.)
SMALL DRAWERFALSE FRONT
(18!/8" x 2!%/16" - #/4" Ply.)
LARGE DRAWERFRONT/BACK
(!/2" x 7!/4" - 16#/4")
2!/4
MEDIUM
DRAWERSIDE
(!/2" x 4&/8" - 11")
SMALLDRAWER SIDE
(!/2" x 2!/4"- 11")L
5 FIGURE
K
J
I
BACK(19!/4" x 20!/2")
J
I
TOP/
BOTTOM(12#/4" x 19!/4")
SIDE(12#/4" x 21")
NOTE: ALLPARTS MADE
FROM #/4"PLYWOOD
NOTE: ATTACH CASE TOBASE WITH #8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREWS
#8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREW
adding
Storage 4
FIGURE
SIDEVIEW
DRILLPRESS
POST
COLUMN
!/4
BASE
BACKa.
FRONTVIEW!/2
BASE
SIDE b.
TOPVIEW
!/2
!/4
!/2
!/8
!/16 b.
SIDEVIEW
!/4
!/4!/4
a.
The storage cabinet features ahandy bank of drawers. How-
ever, the depth of the drawers is
limited by the drill press column.So that the space on either side ofthe column isnt wasted, I addeda pair of cubbies to provide use-
ful, additional storage.
Drawer Case. Construction
starts with the drawer case. Fig-ure 4 shows how it goes together.I started by cutting all five parts
to size. The back edges of the topand bottom are rabbeted to join
with the back panel. Three edgesof the side panels are rabbeted, as
well. You can see what I mean inFigures 4a and 4b.
The assembly of the case is
pretty straightforward. A little glueand clamps get the job done. Once
the glue dries, you can attach thecase to the base.
Drawers. As you can see inFigure 5, there are four drawersto build in three different heights.
The joinery is all the same andthe part sizes are identical
except for the width.
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The drawers are assembled with
strong tongue and dado joinery. Soonce all the sides, fronts and backs
are cut to size, you can set up anassembly line to cut all the parts.
It all starts with dadoes in the
drawer sides. After switching toa 14" dado blade, you can cut the
grooves for the drawer bottoms
before moving on.Next, bury a dado blade in an
auxiliary rip fence to cut the rabbets on the ends of the drawerfronts and backs. These rabbets
form the tongues that fit into thedadoes in the drawer sides.
After cutting the bottoms to sizeand gluing up all the drawers, you
can mount them on full-extension slides, as shown in Figure 5
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Then cut and fit the false fronts andinstall the pulls.
Storage Cubbies. The storagecubbies are next. They fit behindthe case flush with the sides.
The construction of the cubbiesis similar to the drawer case. The
details are illustrated in Figure 6.
The only difference in the construc-tion is a dado cut in the sides and
back to house a fixed shelf.After cutting the shelf to size,
you can assemble the case. Onemore detail to add is the pair of
shelf rails. These are simply gluedin place before you attach the cub-
bies to the cabinet.
Finally, a Top. The last pieceof the puzzle is the large cabinet
top you see in Figure 7. Like thebase, it wraps around the drill
press column and provides addi-tional worksurface. Two recesseson either side keep drill bits and
other small items from rolling offonto the floor.
As with the base of the cabinet,youll cut the top to size and cutout the U-shaped notch with a jig
saw. After a little sanding, you canround over all the edges and get
set up to rout the recesses.
Routing the Recesses. To cre-
ate the recesses on the top, I useda technique detailed in the lower
right box. I made a template with
an opening sized for the recess.To rout the recess, I used a bowl
and tray bit in a router with a large
auxiliary base. The bit createsrounded inside corners while leav-
ing a flat bottom.Youll want to rout in a clock-
wise direction with the bearing ofthe bit in contact with the inside
edge of the template. This createsthe outline of the recess. Then its
NOTE: ALL PARTSEXCEPT SHELF
RAILS MADE FROM#/4" PLYWOOD
ASSEMBLEDCUBBY
TOP/BOTTOM(7#/8" x 8")
Z
Y
X
W
V
W
SIDE(7#/8" x 21")
BACK(8" x 20!/2")
SHELF(7!/8" x 8")
Z
SHELF RAIL
(#/8" x 1!/4" - 7")
V
#8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREW
CL
6 FIGURE
SIDEVIEW !/4
!/4
BASE
DRAWER
CASE
BACK
CUBBIE
SIDE
#8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREW
b.
#8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREW
CABINET TOP(20!/4" x 21#/4" - #/4" Ply.)
AA
ROUTERRECESS (SEETINT BOX AT
RIGHT)
CENTER TOPOVER CABINET
!/2"-RAD.
1
7Router Template
FRONT VIEW
!/4
1!/4
a.
5!/8
BOWL ANDTRAY BIT
WASTE
ATTACH TEMPLATETO TOP WITH
DOUBLE-SIDEDTAPE
TEMPLATE6!/2
1!/4
1!/4
#/4"Ply.
CABINETTOP
You can make a template like theone shown below by assemblingthe four sides with pocket hole join-
ery. This technique allows you to sizethe opening perfectly for the task.
Then, rout out the waste.SIDE VIEW
#/8
a.
a simple mat-ter of removingthe remaining
waste with several passes of therouter across the recess.
Finish Up. Now youre readyto attach the top with screws from
inside the drawer cabinet andcubbies, as shown in Figure 7.Apply a clear finish before rolling
the cabinet into place and puttingit to good use.
TOP VIEW
5!/2
2!/2"-RAD.
CL
b.
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An auxiliary table and an adjust-
able fence are the two bestimprovements you can make to abare bones drill press. I thought
the combo shown above was aperfect complement to the mobile
base and storage cabinet. The tableshown here has been in use for a
lot of years in my shop and is oneof my favorites.
Lets start with the table. Its
much larger than the metal drillpress table its attached to. So it
offers plenty of support whenworking with long pieces.
The table also lays the ground-work for an adjustable fence. To
allow positioning of the fencequickly and accurately, it slides
along two T-shaped slots in thetable. And a pair of flange boltsand knobs lock it in place.
TABLE
The table is made up of two lay-ers. For rigidity, theres a layer of
34"-thick plywood on the bottom
And a top layer of 14" hardboard creates a smooth, durable worksurface
Theres also another advantage
to this double-layered assemblyThe top layer has a removable
insert, as shown in Figure 8. Whenthis insert gets chewed up with use
simply slide it in or out to expose afresh drilling surface. Or replace iwith a new insert.
Base. I started on the table bymaking the plywood base (Figure
8). To form the wide portion othe T-slots, youll need to cut twodadoes in the base, as in Figure
8a. Later, each of these dadoes wilaccept the head of a flange bolt tha
guides the fence in the T-slot.
Install T-Nuts. The next step i
to install T-nuts that are used toattach the base to the metal drilpress table. To locate the hole
for these T-nuts, start by setting
the base on the drill press tableThen, after marking the locationof the holes from underneath the
BB
CC
NOTE: LOCATION OFT-NUTS VARIES WITHDRILL PRESS
TABLE TOP(12" x 13!/16" - !/4" Hdbd.)
TABLE BASE(12" x 30" - #/4" Ply.)
DD
INSERT(12" x 5" - !/4" Hdbd.)
FIRST:CUT DADOES
THIRD:GLUETOP PIECES
TO BASE
SECOND:COUNTERBORE T-NUTS
FLUSH WITH BASE
FOURTH:CUT T-SLOTS
8 FIGURE
TOP INSERT
BASE
15 BEVEL
%/16"- 18 T-NUT
COUNTERBORED
HOLE FITS T-NUT
FRONTVIEW
b.!/8
1!!/16
%/16
%/8
TOP
BASE
NOTE: T-SLOT IN TOP ISCENTERED OVER DADO IN BASE
FRONTVIEW
a.
drill press
Table & Fence
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!/4"-20THREADED
KNOB
!/4"WASHER
!/4"-20 x 3 !/4"FLANGE BOLT
!/8" CHAMFERPROVIDES
DUST RELIEF
%/16"-18HEX BOLT
W/WASHER
10
table, drill counterbored throughholes and install the T-nuts.
Top. Now you can concentrateon the top of the table. It consistsof two top pieces and the insert, as
illustrated in Figure 8 on the pre-vious page and Figure 10 below.
Note: Its best to cut oversize top
pieces and trim them flush later.The insert is captured in a
dovetail-shaped opening in the topof the table. This opening is formed
by cutting a bevel on the insideedge of the top pieces, as shown
in Figure 8b on the previous page.To prevent the insert from binding,the beveled edges of the top pieces
need to be parallel to each other. Asimple solution is to use a spacer
between them when gluing on thepair of top pieces.
After trimming the edges flush,you can complete the second halfof the T-slots. This is just a matter
of cutting dadoes in the top pieces(Figure 8a, page 7).
Now all thats left is to cut aninsert to fit the opening in thetable. To do this, youll need to
bevel both edges of the insert.While youre at it, its a good idea
to make several extra inserts soyoull have a few spares.
FENCE
After attaching the drill press tablewith bolts, the next step is to add
the fence. The thing I like best
about this fence is you can adjust
it without having to coax first oneend and then the other. The reasonhas to do with a narrow slot in each
end of the fence. These slots formopenings for the flange bolts that
guide the fence.Why not just drill holes for
the bolts? After all, it would bequicker. The only problem is ifyou dont move both ends of the
fence the same amount whenmaking an adjustment, the bolts
would jam in the holes and causethe fence to bind. But the slotsprovide clearance for the bolts.
So even if both ends of the fencearent perfectly aligned, it still
slides nice and smooth.Fence Pieces. To make the fence,
start by cutting the two plywoodfence pieces, as illustrated in Fig-ure 9. The slot for the flange bolts
is formed by first cutting a pairof shallow dadoes in each piece,
then assembling these so thedadoes align and form a slot for
the bolt. The margin photo showshow to do this using a waxed key.
After this assembly dries, you canadd the hardboard face.
Notch. Before installing the
fence, I cut a semicircular notch inthe top edge. The details are shown
in Figure 9. This notch providesclearance for the chuck when usingshorter drill bits. I used a Forst-
ner bit to drill the notch and thensanded it smooth.
Attach Fence. Now all thatsleft is to attach the fence to the
table. After slipping the flangebolts in place, set the fence downover them. Tightening knobs on
the ends of the bolts locks thefence in place.
FRONT VIEW
FENCE
TOP
BASE
a.
EE
F F
30
2!/2
FIRST:CUT DADOESIN BOTH HALVESOF FENCE
SECOND:GLUE THETWO PIECES TOGETHER
FENCE(2!/2"x 30" - 1!/2" Ply.)
FENCE FACE(2!/2"x 30" - !/4" Hdbd.)
THIRD:ADD THEHARDBOARD FACE
FOURTH:CUTA SEMICIRCULAR
NOTCH IN THE TOP EDGE
CL
2!/4"-Dia.EE
9 FIGURE
TOP VIEW
!/8
1!/2 1
{Glueup Tip.
A waxed key
ensures prope
alignment whe
gluing up the
fence pieces.
SIDE VIEW
BASE
b.
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Materials List
3-in-1
Drill Press Upgrade
Cutting Diagram
EEF
!/2" x 7!/2" - 96" MAPLE (5.0 Bd. Ft.)
!/2" x 7!/2" - 96" MAPLE (5.0 Bd. Ft.)
#/4" x 8" - 96" MAPLE (5.3 Bd. Ft.)
1!/4" x 5!/2" - 96" MAPLE (5.5 Bd. Ft.)
L L L L M M M
MO O P P H
ZZ
ZZH
SSRR
B B C C
G
G
NOTE: PLANE PARTS 'Z' TO #/8" THICK
MOBILE BASE
A Base (1) 1512 x 2012- 34Ply.
B Cleat (2) 114x 3- 2012C Wheel Blocking (2) 114x 334- 2012
STORAGE CABINET
D Base Top (1) 1914x 21 - 34Ply.
E Sides (2) 34x 534- 21
F Front (1) 34x 534- 1934G Wheel Blocking (2) 1x 334- 2012
H Skirts (2) 12 x 334- 2012I Top/Bottom (2) 1234 x 1914- 34Ply.
J Sides (2) 1234 x 21 - 34Ply.
K Back (1) 1914 x 2012- 34Ply.
L Sm. Drawer Sides (4) 12x 214- 11
M Sm. Drawer Frts./Backs (4) 12x 214- 1634N Sm. False Fronts (2) 1818x 21516- 34Ply.
O Med. Drawer Sides (2) 12x 478- 11
P Med. Drawer Frts./Backs (2) 12x 478- 1634
Q Med. False Front (1) 1818x 5716- 34Ply.
R Large Drawer Sides (2) 12x 714- 11
S Lg. Drawer Fronts/Backs (2) 12x 714- 1634T Large False Front (1) 1818x 778- 34Ply.
U Drawer Bottoms (4) 1012 x 1634- 14Hdbd.
V Tops/Bottoms (4) 738 x 8 - 34Ply.
W Sides (4) 738 x 21 - 34Ply.
X Backs (2) 8 x 2012- 34Ply.
Y Shelves (4) 718 x 8 - 34Ply.
Z Shelf Rails (4) 38 x 114- 7
AA Cabinet Top (1) 2014x 2134- 34Ply.
TABLE & FENCE
BB Base (1) 12 x 30 - 34Ply.
CC Top (2) 12 x 13116- 14Hdbd.
DD Insert (1) 5 x 12 - 14Hdbd.
EE Fence (1) 212x 30 - 112Ply.
FF Fence Face (1) 212x 30 - 14Hdbd.
8) 3" Wheels
(4) 38" x 2" Lag Screws
(10) 14" Washers
(6) 14"-20 Star Knobs
(4) 14"-20 x 1"-dia. Levelers
(4) 14"-20 x 412" Threaded Rod
(4) 14"-20 T-Nuts
(10) #8 x 112" Fh Woodscrews
(4) 14" x 214" Steel Rod
(4 pr.) 10" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides w/Scre
(16) #6 x 34" Fh Woodscrews
(22) #8 x 114" Fh Woodscrews
(4) Sash Pulls
(2) 14"-20 x 314" Flange Bolts
(4) 516"-18 T-Nuts
(4) 516" Washers
(4) 516"-18 Hex Bolts (to attach table)
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8/11/2019 3 in 1 Drill Press Upgrade
11/1210 WoodsmithPlans.com SN12818 2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved
Cutting Diagram cont.
Q
48" x 24" - #/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD 48" x 48" - !/4" HARDBOARD
AA
48" x 96" - #/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD
K
I
I
J
J
D
A
EE
CC CC
FF
DD
EE
X
X
W
W
WY
V
Y
V
Y
V
U U U U
Y
V W
BB
TN N Q
GRAIN DIRECTION
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8/11/2019 3 in 1 Drill Press Upgrade
12/12
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527
McMaster-Carr
630-833-0300
mcmaster.com
Rockler
800-279-4441
rockler.com
MAILORDER
SOURCES
Project SourcesFor the 3-in-1 drill press upgrade, you
can go online toMcMaster-Carrto pur-
chase the 1"-dia. levelers (6103K65)
and the 3"-dia. wheels (2781T72). You
can find the 10" full extension slides
(61440) at Rockler.