2020 05 09 cmyk na 04 · 2020-05-12 · style & fashion whywe’reobsessed daniella...
TRANSCRIPT
D2 | Saturday/Sunday, May 9 - 10, 2020 * * * * THEWALL STREET JOURNAL.
STYLE & FASHION
Why We’re ObsessedDaniella Kallmeyer’s namesake brandexudes a polished calm a la the Rowbut without the ungodly price tag. Herwell-edited collections, suitable for lazyladies and type-A strivers alike, com-prise pieces like pink pantsuits andlight knits—all made in the U.S. “I liketo say that you should look like you’rein a suit and feel like you’re in paja-mas,” said the designer (above).
For Fans OfKatharine Hepburn’s brazen, menswear-inspired style; rewiring 1960s ceramiclamps; hopping upstate with a singlesatchel; calling olives and wine “dinner.”
Origin StoryBorn in Johannesburg and raised nearWashington, D.C., Ms. Kallmeyer creditsher devastatingly chic, New York-basedgranny with introducing her to fashion.“She was so elegant…we would do littlesewing projects,” she recalled. Aftergraduating from the London College ofFashion, Ms. Kallmeyer worked for darkgenius Alexander McQueen and a fewindie New York brands before launchinghers in 2012.
Starter PieceThe $575 double-breasted blazer, whichMs. Kallmeyer says is “easy and un-pre-cious,” and we firmly agree. Start withthe black before nabbing the emerald.
Street VendorLast year, Ms. Kallmeyer opened a pop-up shop on New York’s Orchard Street,which she likes for its “magical” neigh-borhood charm. Inspired by the cementfactory near Barcelona that Spanish ar-chitect Ricardo Bofill converted into hisEscher-esque headquarters, it will even-tually reopen as a permanent location.
Occasional CarpenterMs. Kallmeyer worships midcenturyfurniture. Using found wood and ob-jects, she crafts her own pieces, like abeloved cherry-wood bench that sits inher store. Clients have tried convincingher to sell the bench to no avail (yet).
Find it at kallmeyer.nyc
A female designer whomakes not-insanely priced,Kate Hepburn-ish suiting andluxe dresses? Yes, please.
BY LAURA NEILSON
INSIDER SECRET
SAMIS
ARA
MÄKI
Facialists offer virtual consultations to help clientsprune their skincare products. Lessons abound.
Beauty’s Next Big Thing Is...Less
Kallmeyer’sCool Confidence
EFIC
HALIKO
POULO
U(PORT
RAIT;):G
ETTY
IMAGES
(HEP
BURN
,BOFILL)
Clockwise from top: Katharine Hepburnin 1952; Kallmeyer’s bestselling BelleGown; Ricardo Bofill’s cement factory;a bench by Ms. Kallmeyer; a tuxedoedtake on the brand’s boxy blazer
own extractions at home,” she said.She also warns against “over-exfoliat-ing” with scrubs, toners and serumsthat contain AHAs and BHAs, whichdisrupt the skin’s barrier, allowingaggressors to penetrate and irritate.Combining ingredients that don’tplay well together triggers further ir-ritation. This is a very important
consideration, said New Yorkfacialist Sofie Pavitt, whenthinning out your productpile, a process she hasdubbed a “skin diet.” As sheexplained, “the issues usu-ally lie with too many activeingredients throughout peo-ple’s routines.”
So, what does our skin ac-tually need? Far less thanwe might think, it seems.Just as our medicine cabi-nets look better if we don’toverwhelm them with prod-ucts, so does our skin. Ex-perts agree that many skintypes will thrive on a combi-nation of the following: atreatment product to spurcellular turnover and exfoli-ate (like one rich in VitaminA or retinol, AHA or BHA),an antioxidant like vitaminC, a solid moisturizer, a sim-ple cleanser, and a sunscreenof at least SPF 30.
While that formula worksfor many, it doesn’t work forall. “Everyone wants to try‘cult’ products like P50 [Bi-ologique Recherche’s best-selling acid-based toner] and[topical] vitamin C, butsometimes they aren’t theright ingredients for them,”Ms. Pavitt emphasized. If theformula fails you, you can gowith an even simpler rou-tine. “I think a foundation ofcleansing the skin well,moisturizing at least once aday, and exfoliating two tothree times a week is a re-ally great start to getting aconsistent and non-over-whelming routine in place,”she added. And pay close at-tention to what works foryour skin. “Be intuitiveabout it… your skin knowswhat it likes and doesn’tlike,” said the Brooklyn-based aesthetician CarrieLindsey.
I tried to listen to my skinand my virtual expert’s ad-vice. What I didn’t need
were five serums, four cleansers, plusa motley assortment of creams, oilsand toners. While I don’t buy MarieKondo’s notion that things mustspark joy to earn their keep, stream-lining my routine down to the essen-tials feels good.
“YOU DON’T NEED that serum.” Fivewords that I was, frankly, delightedto hear during a virtual skin consul-tation with Manhattan facialist Geor-gia Louise. I say “delighted” becausean opposing principle has oftenfueled the beauty industry (and, ad-mittedly, my own skin-care routine): the beliefthat women need a sur-plus of products, a more-is-more approach, toachieve “perfect” skin.
But it’s time to call it.Over are the days of thestuffed skin-care#shelfie—social-mediaphotos of bathroom cabi-nets crammed with prod-ucts—that websites likeInto the Gloss and the Filehave popularized. Follow-ing the current crisis, Ipredict we’ll re-evaluateour collective consump-tion and commit to usingless, certainly in ourbeauty routines. Facialists,many of whom are nowdoling out wisdom in pri-vate video consultations,will help fuel this MarieKondo-ing of our skin-carestashes.
“A lot of people havebeen reaching out askingfor help prioritizing theirproducts,” said Berkeley,Calif., facialist KristinaHoley, who has performedvirtual consultations forthree years now. “BeforeCovid I was doing one aday, and now I’m doingfour,” added Ms. Holey,who offers a sliding scalefor those who have losttheir primary source of in-come. To help people paredown their products, shefirst analyzes the state oftheir skin. “I’m getting alot of new inquiries frompeople who are just get-ting over Covid and expe-riencing systemic rashes,eczema, and acne...andalso an influx of clientswith [the rash around themouth] perioral dermati-tis,” said the facialist, whochalks much of it up tothe drastic increase instress.
Rhea Souhleris Grous,owner of La Suite Skincare and headaesthetician at Union Square LaserDermatology in New York City, saysthe most common mistake she’s beenseeing clients make is responding tothese sudden skin flare-ups too ag-gressively. “They’re trying to do their
BY FIORELLA VALDESOLO
U BeautyResurfacingCompound,from $148,saks.com
BiologiqueRecherche
Cleansing Milk,from $34,
daphne.studio
EnvironAntioxidantDefence
Crème, $108,650-409-1200
Few and FarBetweenA trio of
products idealfor a less-is-more skin-careapproach.
You’re two feet awayfrom the perfect fit.
We have your shoe size...in a sock.
kane11.com
Get 25% off your first order
use code WS25
Free shipping – Made in the USA
P2JW130000-4-D00200-1--------XA