2013 wood river valley guide

2 | 2013 WOOD RIVER VALLEY GUIDE | BOISEweekly WWW.BOISEWEEKLY.COM

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WWW.BOISEWEEKLY.COM BOISEweekly | 2013 WOOD RIVER VALLEY GUIDE | 3

A strange thing happens somewhere between the first leaves of spring and winter’s first snows: Time actually speeds up, turning those “lazy” days of summer into a whirlwind of com-mitments and intentions. If you don’t watch it, summer will slip away before you get the chance to get out of town and enjoy the season.

If it has just dawned on you that it’s already August and you’ve somehow misplaced nearly three months, don’t fear. Not only is there still plenty of time to get away, it doesn’t have to be a major commitment.

Thankfully, the Wood River Valley is just a few hours drive from the Treasure Valley, offering a mountain escape from our work-a-day lives. As always, Boise Weekly is dedicated to helping readers get the most out of their all-too-brief vacation time by offering some of the best bets, locals tips and insider knowledge of the Wood River Valley.

In this, our fourth annual Wood River Valley Guide, we once again offer inspiration for getting out of town. If you’re a literature lover, check out our guide for exploring the haunts of some of Sun Valley’s most famous writers. If you’re more into food, we offer some of the best options for dining with an eye (and tastebud) on local and seasonal ingredients.

While a summer escape is always fun, fall can be an amazing time to head to Central Idaho, not only for the weather and the slate of must-attend festivals, but because the shoulder season means there are some fantastic deals to be had.

Check out the calendar of events in the center of the section to help plan your trip. Most importantly, remember that it isn’t too late to slow down the clock—at least for a little while.

—Deanna Darr

4 ....................................................Literature in the mountains

5 .............................................................................. Going nordic

8 ................................................................... Calendar of Events

10 ..............................................................................eating right

12 ......................................................in the belly of the dragon

14 ...........................................................shoulder season deals


Everyone knows you can ski, hike and hunt big game in the Wood River Valley, but what if you’d rather explore the literary leg-acies that also exist around Bald Mountain? The valley has produced two of the most prominent figures in 20th century literature: Ernest Hemingway and Ezra Pound. Thanks to the Sun Valley Writer’s Conference, a new crop of literary stars is being celebrated and fostered for the future. You can’t hang with Hem, of course, but the young guns have their favorite local haunts, too.

A good place to start your literary ramblings is the Community Library in Ketchum, where Regional History Librarian Sandra Hofferber has compiled a walk-ing tour for the Hemingway-curious. She says Hemingway spent a total of 708 days in the area—not too many more than his third wife, novelist and journalist Martha Gellhorn.

The brown Ketchum Korral cabins at the south entrance to Ketchum on Highway 75 are where Ernest and Mary Hemingway (wife No. 4) stayed with their three boys for two hunting seasons—though back then, in the late ’40s, they were known as the MacDonald Cabins. The Sun Valley Lodge, about two miles east of Ketchum, is where Papa holed up, in Room 206, to work on For Whom the Bell Tolls in 1939. The Hemingway House off Warm Springs Road in north Ketchum—where the writer committed suicide in 1961—is off-limits to the public, and fans are not encouraged to visit his gravesite at the Ketchum Cemetery, just east of Highway 75 a half-mile north of town. Instead, go 1.6 miles east, past the Sun Valley Lodge to the Hemingway Memo-rial, where a bronze bust of the writer is positioned at a picturesque section of an ir-rigation canal. This is a great place to relax and read a short story.

Feeling thirsty and want a drink at one of Hemingway’s favorite watering holes? Try Whiskey Jacques (the Alpine Club in Hem’s day), in downtown Ketchum. For eats, check out Michel’s Christiania and Olympic Bar, where Papa had a regular table.

The Wood River Valley was home to an-other literary icon before Hemingway, though. The first to emerge from the Wood River Valley was born in Hailey long before Count Felix Schaffgotsch and Averell Harri-man conspired to create America’s first destination ski resort near Ketchum. Poet Ezra Pound’s birthplace was nearly forgot-ten by history, and would have been lost had an Irish playwright working for the Sun Valley Center for the Arts not “discovered” it in 1972.

The locals, in-cluding community leader and colum-nist Roberta McK-ercher, who owned and lived in the house where Pound was born, seemed willing to allow the legacy of his origins to drift into obscurity. Probably because this towering modernist poet and friend of writers (he edited T.S. Eliot’s The Wasteland, helped discover James Joyce, and was a longtime friend of Hemingway,

going back to their ex-pat days in Europe in the ’20s) was also a notorious anti-Semite and branded a traitor to the United States for his hysterical pro-fascist rants during World War II.

Today, the restored Ezra Pound House at the corner of Second Avenue and Pine

Street in Hailey is managed by the Sun Valley Center for the Arts, offering writing workshops, gallery shows and concerts throughout the year.

Pound was born in Hailey during the mining boom of the 1880s, but moved as a child to Philadelphia and later Europe. Despite his con-troversial reputa-tion—no consensus has been reached as to whether he was unbalanced or just despicable—many poets and writers after him, from Allen Ginsberg, Naomi Shihab Nye and recent poet laureate William S. Merwin, have made

the pilgrimage to his birthplace. Hemingway, who would help put Sun

Valley on the map when he was invited to the opening of the resort by Harriman in 1936, helped Pound escape execution after World War II and later came to his aid, along with poets Robert Frost and

Archibald MacLeish, to free him from St. Elizabeth’s Hospital, a Washington, D.C., asylum where he was confined from 1946-1958 after pleading insanity to accusations of treason in 1945.

The literary esprit de corps that existed among writers in Paris during Hemingway’s generation has been re-created since 1995 at the Sun Valley Writer’s Conference, which takes place each year over the last weekend in August. During the early years of the conference, major writers such as William Styron, Peter Matthiessen, Margaret At-wood and Michael Ondaatje told stories at the Community School campus in Sun Val-ley, joined by a host of leading journalists and TV news executives. Legendary editor James Bellows read and edited manuscripts for a lucky few.

Over the years, the list of SVWC writers, poets, filmmakers, journalists and news makers has multiplied to include Abraham Verghese, former Supreme Court Justice Sandra Day O’Connor, Tracy Kidder, Alex-andra Fuller and many others. Several of the presenters return year after year, and have seen one another’s work evolve.

The SVWC has become expensive and exclusive. Journalists are forbidden to interview participants, and $900 tickets for the next year sell out immediately after the conference ends, leading to speculation in literary circles: What might former poet laureate Billy Collins learn from National Geographic explorer-in-residence Wade Davis? Have either of them read Mona Simpson’s summer phenom, Gone Girl, which will soon be made into a feature film? What might Harvard creative writing pro-fessor Bret Anthony Johnston, who just finished a documentary about the world’s best skateboarder, have to share with retired Gen. Stanley

6

Ernest Hemingway is buried in Sun Valley, but his life's work lives on in the Wood River Valley.


Freshly groomed Nordic ski trails are becoming a huge draw to the Wood River Valley for professionals and weekend war-riors alike.

Thanks to the diligent efforts of some dedicated fans, the Sun Valley area is now a designated Olympic training destination for the U.S. Nordic ski team, meaning anyone who has aspirations of competing in the Big Games—or at least catching a glimpse of some who may be headed for Sochi, Russia, in 2014—the key is to find a couch to surf in Blaine County and show up.

Those serious about training will find avid and skilled coaching through the Sun Valley Ski Educa-tion Foundation and VAMPS, run by Nordic powerhouse Muffy Ritz, among other opportunities. Thrift stores, ski swaps and seasonal work can fill in the gaps on the way to Nordic greatness. Phil Liggett may even announce your name in prime time with his silky announc-er’s voice. Don Wiseman, one of the key people behind getting the Olympic designa-tion, is not only an enthusiast and one of the sport’s greatest supporters, he also looks at the expertly groomed ski trails as a gateway

to other challenging mountain sports like mountain biking and even backcountry ski-ing—sports that require elevated experience and skills, and add to the enjoyment of the vast public lands surrounding the Wood River Valley.

A quick way to learn the Nordic terrain is to print the 200K challenge card for the

Sun Valley Nordic Festival—which runs Jan. 25-Feb. 2, 2014—at svnordic-festival.com. The sheet is a one-stop shop for informa-tion, including a guide to and passes for the trails, which are mostly man-aged by the Blaine County Recreation District.

Sun Valley Resort also has 40 kilometers of skiing on terrain sur-rounding the Sun Valley Clubhouse on Trail Creek Road. Mat Ger-shater can be your online guide with his Sun Valley Nor-dic skiing video.

Finally, anyone looking to test their skills can head to

Galena Lodge, where food and rejuvenating beverages await all levels of skiers—from those who tackle trails like Psycho to casual visitors who come for a wee bit of saucer sledding with the kids and the dog.

With Olympic Training status, the Wood River Valley's Nordic trails are gaining notoriety.

DAV

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McChrystal, former leader of U.S. military operations in Afghanistan and author of My Share of the Task?

Many other writers have emerged from the Sun Valley area. They in-

clude Ridley Pearson, who formed the Rock Bottom Remainders band with Steven King, Dave Barry and Amy Tan. Judith Freeman taught skiing in Sun Valley in the 1970s and wrote for the Idaho Statesman before going to Los Angeles to write The Chin-chilla Farm.

Freeman, who is now at work on a memoir, said she attended the first Sun Valley Writer’s Conference 18 years ago. She recalled in an inter-view that she joined poet W.S. Merwin; his wife, Paula; and a 22-year local kid named Alexander Maksik on an outing to Silver Creek Preserve that summer. Maksik’s father was headmaster at the Community School in Ketchum in those days, and one of the original founders of the Sun Valley Writer’s Conference.

“Xander said he wanted to become a writer, and he did,” said Freeman. “A lot of people say they want to, but few actually do.”

Today, after many years teaching and writing, Maksik is a rising international literary star. His first novel, You Deserve Nothing, has been translated into six lan-guages, including Russian and Korean. In a recent interview with the Idaho Mountain Express in Ketchum, Maksik said his fa-vorite local hangout is Iconoclast Books on Sun Valley Road. Proprietor Sara Hedrick keeps her shop supplied with many books

of regional interest, and collections of work by Sun Valley Writers Conference attendees.

Also worth noting in the Sun Valley area are a number of lesser known writers, in-cluding Mary Clare Griffin, author of Language Lessons, and Rick Slone, author of Brown Shoe. There is also Mike Medberry’s recent memoir On the Dark Side of the Moon, and a collection of col-umns by Michael Hofferber called Rural Delivery.

Sandra Hof-ferber has collected many more that most have never heard of. Get her started and she can also dish out some local gossip and enchanting lore about the valley that may never make it into print.

Ketchum Community Library415 Spruce Ave., Ketchum,thecommunitylibrary.org

Sun Valley Lodge2 Sun Valley Road,

sunvalley.com

Hemingway MemorialSun Valley Road, 1.6 miles east of

Sun Valley Lodge

Ezra Pounds birthplace/ Sun Valley Center for the Arts

314 Second Ave. S., Hailey,sunvalleycenter.org

Iconoclast Books671 Sun Valley Road, Ketchum,

iconoclastbooks.com

4

The house where Ezra Pound was born in Hailey is now managed by the Sun Valley Center for the Arts and hosts events throughout the year.


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DAVID WHEELOCK


13

The Wood River Valley is packed with dining options for all tastes, but a growing number of eateries are putting the focus on sustainable and seasonal menus—so many so that it's hard to choose. Here are some of our best bets for dining in the Sun Valley area.

Rickshaw:460 N. Washington Ave., Ketchum, 208-726-8481, eat-at-rickshaw.com

In unskilled hands, bok choy can be a shruggable, watery green. But Ketchum’s Asian street-food hot spot, Rickshaw, does something magical to those little limp, leafy bulbs, bathing them in sesame oil and pairing them with tender shiitake sliv-ers and deep, warming hints of garlic and ginger. It’s the same thoughtful treat-ment the rest of Rickshaw’s fare gets in the itty bitty restaurant’s open, sizzling kitchen. From spicy, hot and sour soup flecked with Monterey Bay Aquarium-approved seafood to free-range Korean fried chicken to the least boring pad Thai in Idaho—with wild U.S. shrimp, organic tofu, lots of heat and a big hit of lime—Rickshaw serves up simple, sustainable eats and keeps its seats perpetually packed.

Della Mano: 260 N. Main St., Ketchum, 208-721-7351, dellamanorestaurant.com

Though locals know Chef Taite Pearson from his turn at Sun Valley’s shuttered Sego, the James Beard-nominated chef sharpened his knives working for bigwigs like Wolf-gang Puck and Joel Robuchon. But don’t let his resume intimidate you, Pearson and Sarah Lipton’s latest communal seating concept, Della Mano, is a shrine to simple small plates and comforting handmade pastas. Local, seasonal ingredients make a big show-ing on the ever-changing menu—the chicken liver terrine is served with pickled rhubarb and saba, a syrup made from grape must, while the agnolotti pasta is filled with fresh peas, local ricotta and topped with delicate, yellow pea shoots. But beware: The joint is only open from 6-9 p.m.-ish, Wednesday-Sunday.


The ambitious curators of the Sun Valley Center for the Arts have dropped a prism into one ungainly topic this fall, that U.S. frenemy of titanic proportions: China. Tourists, locals and second homeowners will have about three months to watch the many bright colors flash around town, from The Center gallery space in Ketchum to the newly partnered Liberty Theatre in Hailey.

Leading scholars will dis-cuss Chinese art history and Beijing-style capitalism, kids will make traditional Chinese lanterns while their parents can choose from Mandarin cooking classes, a tour of site-specific installations or a documentary about renowned artist Ai Weiwei, who was detained for three months for criticizing the government and is still not allowed to travel outside the country.

Stories of a Changing China kicks off on Friday, Aug. 30, from 5-7 p.m. at The Center, where artist Ying Zhu will speak about her installation at 6 p.m.

“It is like living in a fog; everything is under a gentle haze. It seems to be within reach, but very difficult to get a firm grasp,” Zhu said.

During the course of 12 weeks, the SVC will navigate through the mist. The Luo Broth-ers, Ren Sihong and Suo Tan make wry sculptures and collages using China’s tradition of socialist-realist propaganda to comment on the

invasion of Western brands into China’s market. Chen Qiulin films and photographs consider the speed with which China’s past is being erased. Yun-Fei Ji tackles this same issue in “Three Gorges Dam Migration,” employing a scroll that uses traditional Chinese landscape painting techniques.

Hai Bo’s photographs consider

how the lives of those who lived through China’s Cultural Revolu-tion have changed, and Xu Bing cre-ates work exploring the collision of East and West through an invented

calligraphy style that reimagines the English language through Chinese-inspired characters. The exhibition also features work by Western artists reflecting on contemporary China.

Rachel Davis’ experiences in China inspired a series of watercolor paintings that are meditations on the collision between cultural history

and rapid development. Bovey Lee, born and raised in Hong Kong and based in the United States, uses the Chinese tradition of paper cutting (jianzhi) to comment on the human

relationship to the natural environ-ment.

On Wednesday, Sept. 18, at 6:30 p.m., writer Jeff Kelley deliv-ers “Half Life of a Dream,” a talk on the haunted and iconoclastic works of Chinese artists, from the New Wave of the late 1980s to the market boom on the mid-2000s. Kelley will also speak at the Sept. 16

screening of Ai Weiwei: Never Sorry.

Beijing Flickers, by Chinese filmmaker Zhang Yuan, will show on Thurs-

day, Nov. 7, at 7 p.m. at the Liberty Theatre in Hai-ley, featuring worn-down characters against the dazzling lights of China’s teeming capital.

China expert and author Orville Schell will

give a talk on Thursday, Oct. 10, at 6:30 p.m. at the Church of the Big Wood, titled “How Did the Sick Man of Asia End Up As the Most Dynamic Economic Force in the

World Today?” Schell is the director of the Asia Society’s Center on U.S.-China Relations and is a regular contributor on China for PBS, NBC and CBS.

On Thursday, Oct. 17, at 6:30 p.m., playwright David Henry Hwang will speak at the Church of the Big Wood, Ketchum. Hwang was a Pulitzer Prize finalist and Tony Award-winner for his now-iconic play M. Butterfly.

Kim Frank Kirk will host “Lost and Found in Translation,” a book discussion series at the Liberty The-

atre on Wednesdays, Oct. 16–30, 5:30-7 p.m. Registration deadline is Wednes-day, Oct 2. Kirk will explore the works of Hwang, Nobel laure-ate Mo Yan and redis-covered, celebrated pre-war author Eileen Chang.

There will also be seminars and classes for those interested in further exploring the

themes of the show, led by Wharton School Professor Marshall Meyer.

Registration deadline is Friday, Sept. 6.

The shows are extensive and wide-ranging, and those interested in making the most of it should consider buying a Sun Valley Center Symposium for the Curious: China Today pass, on sale for $130 for members, $240 for nonmembers. The gallery shows at the center, including regular tours, are free.

left: Chen Qiulin, Garden No. 1, 2007, digital photograph, collection of Max Protetch, right: Rachel Davis, Parallel Uni-verse, 2012, watercolor on paper, courtesy the artist and Traywick Contemporary, Berkeley, Calif.

Sun Valley Center for the Arts191 Fifth St. E., Ketchum,

sunvalleycenter.org

Church of the Big Wood100 Saddle Road, Ketchum,

pcbw.org

Liberty Theater110 N Main St., Hailey


Dashi:220 East Ave., Ketchum, 208-928-7703, dashisunvalley.com

Dashi’s beef short ribs are a warming winter miracle. Tender shreds of fatty Niman Ranch beef are slid off the bone, formed into hunks, lightly fried in a panko batter and served on a bed of kimchi that has been reduced into a hearty, lightly pungent stew. Chef Tyler Stokes’ contemporary-yet-casual tribute to pan Asian flavors also offers less weighty menu options like hamachi sashimi with blood orange sorbet, Thai chili and coconut gel, and seasonal summer plates like roasted halibut with sweet corn nage, snap peas, lemon-grass and a basil crust.

Enoteca:300 N. Main St., Ketchum, 208-928-6280, ketchum-enoteca.com

If you’re looking for a bite of local fare in the late afternoon in Ketchum, you’re largely out of luck. But thankfully, Ketchum Grill’s new wine bar, Enoteca, opens its doors at 4 p.m., serving seasonal small plates, house-cured meats and bubbly, Neapolitan-style pizza. Snag a seat in the warm wooden window nook overlooking Main Street and tear into the Pizza Diavola with spicy coppa, fennel and manchego, or the marsala-glazed duck confit with risotto.

CK’s Real Food:320 S. Main St., Hailey, 208-788-1223, cksrealfood.com

It’s easy to motor past CK’s Real Food, a flower- and foliage-shaded shack on Hailey’s Main Street, but the temple to local, seasonal eats is well worth making a U-turn. Dinner options at CK’s include orecchiette with quattro formaggi, lacinato kale, CK’s pancetta, wild mushrooms and a poached local egg, or a king crab salad with shaved fennel, delicata squash, almonds, curry vinaigrette and buttermilk dressing. CK’s also offers more laid-back lunch options Monday-Friday, like a reuben sandwich with housemade corned beef and organic sourdough or a brown rice bowl with steamed veggies, pistachio aioli and a Moroccan spice pesto.

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CK's Real Food has been a local favorite for years.

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tickets avaiable at the gate day of shows or online at

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Don’t fret when you see the end of summer looming on your calendar. The shoulder season in the Wood River Valley is a stu-pendous time of year.

The Smoky, Pioneer and Boulder mountains are a free place to wander and it doesn’t take much to get oriented, with new guideposts around Ketchum making it easy to look up from wireless devices to figure out where things are.

Consider following your nose—or at least asking a local—about where to find the day’s best shoulder season drink and food specials. From CK’s Real Foods in Hailey to Galena Lodge, two-for-one and end-of-season discounts abound once Labor Day rolls around. A trip on the Baldy Gon-dola to the Round House earns you a free ice cream back in Ketchum if you keep your ticket.

For those who like at least a little direction to begin the journey, consider printing out a map of Ketchum art galleries, provided by the Sun Valley Gallery Association. Even if you find yourself spinning your wheels in the woods (preferably on a mountain bike) or unsure where next to turn at the end of a hike, just stop and look around.

For example, the U.S. Forest Service road for the East Fork of Baker Creek—north of the Sawtooth National Recreation Area headquarters—is closed to motor vehicles to help migrating elk find their bugle, but the way is open to hikers and

mountain bikers seeking a backcountry respite, which can include a bed in the famous Coyote Yurt operated by Sun Valley Trekking.

Returning visitors to the Wood River Valley know they can plan well-rounded shorts-weather adventures in the wilds of Idaho, which are uniquely steeped in a cosmopolitan brew of fine arts encounters. (Some have been known to wear shorts long after the first snow flies.)

One of the best deals going is the Sun Valley Summer Sym-phony. Patrons can lounge on the lawn of the Sun Valley Pa-vilion for free evening con-certs through Tuesday, Aug. 20.

The famous Sun Valley Resort is also a frequent purveyor of shoulder season

deals. Golfers can take advantage of numerous golf-and-stay packages through the fall, offering the chance to play the resort’s courses while claiming a room at the historic lodge. Check out the resort’s website for specific details.

You can also get a glimpse of the Wood River Valley experience via the definitive Visit Sun Valley website—maintained by the Sun Valley/Ketchum Chamber and Visitors Bureau—where visitors can find special deals and discounts.

Sun Valley Resortsunvalley.com

Sun Valley Gallery Associationsvgalleries.org

Sun Valley Summer Symphonysvsummersymphony.org

Sun Valley/Ketchum Chamber and Visitors Bureau

visitsunvalley.com

Tee Time in Sun Valley just got sweeter thanks to shoulder season deals at Sun Valley Resort.

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2013 wood river valley guide

Documents

annual wood river valley

treasure valley

summer escape

amazing time

mountain escape

shoulder season

brief vacation time

shoul season deals4