2009-2013 cts-v header installation instr (1) (3).pdfheaders install from bottom, move interfering...

TEXAS SPEED & PERFORMANCE | TEXAS-SPEED.COM | 512.863.0900 1

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2009-2013 CTS-V Header Installation

Tools

▪ 18mm Socket ▪ 10mm Socket and Wrench

▪ 11mm Socket ▪ 13mm Socket and Wrench

▪ 5/8” Spark Plug Socket ▪ 3/8” Drive Ratchet, Torque Wrench, Extensions

▪ 5mm Allen Bit ▪ Reciprocating saw/Handheld Bandsaw/Hacksaw

▪ Zip Ties for secure wiring ▪ 7/8” or 22mm Oxygen Sensor Socket/Wrench


Disassembly Procedure

1. Remove negative battery cable from battery. – 10mm Socket and Wrench

Under the Hood

2. Remove left and right engine bay trim over strut tower bracing.

3. Remove strut tower brace. – 18mm

4. Remove brake booster vacuum from brake booster.

5. Remove all ignition coils, plug wires, and spark plugs. – 10mm on coils, ⅝” on

spark plugs.

6. Remove oil dipstick tube – 15mm

Under the Car

7. Pre-lubricate all exhaust/bolts/nuts/hangers/O2 sensors

8. Unplug O2 sensor wiring. (some are easier to access from the engine bay)

9. Remove O2 sensors – ⅞” or 22mm

10. Remove tunnel brace – 13mm

*Exhaust system can be modified on car if desired, but full removal is an

option, mark locations before removal.

11. Factory exhaust pipe will need to be cut approximately 2 ½” from rear axle half-

shaft center line. On the driver’s side, the differential center section has bolts at its

lowest point. Make the exhaust in line with the most forward bolt. On the

passenger side, it is in line with the third cast iron differential support rib. Mark this

location of the exhaust for cutting. Both cuts should be within ⅛” of each other.

This is where the TSP mid-pipe will connect to the factory axle-back. Use a

reciprocating saw, handheld band-saw, or hack-saw to make your cuts.

*If cut on the car, stock axle-back can remain in place after modifying. If cut

off the car, remove the entire system.

12. Clean up cutting burrs on exhaust with file or dremel to aid in pipe fitment.


Disassembly Procedure (cont.)

Reassembly Procedure

1. Remove steering shaft.

2. Remove furthest upper and lowest bolts (lower middle bolt is slide adjustment) – 11mm x3

3. Remove factory cats. – 15mm

4. Unbolt exhaust manifolds from engine bay side and remove under vehicle. – 13mm

5. Remove any interfering heat shields and starter as necessary for manifold removal.

6. All non-reused stock exhaust should be removed at this point.

1. Install front O2 sensor extensions – routing and securing away from heat.

2. Headers install from bottom, move interfering items such as starter (heat shield)

or steering shaft.

*Headers can be installed without moving engine or disrupting mounts.

Under the Car

3. Install headers from bottom being careful not to cut any wires or break anything.

4. Reinstall steering shaft and reinstall the removed bolts – torque to 25lb feet using

blue thread locker. – 11mm

Under the Hood

5. Bolt headers to cylinder head using stock gaskets and bolts. – 13mm

6. Torque header fasteners to 22lb feet. – 13mm

7. Install spark plugs. -- ⅝” spark plug socket

8. Dipstick tube will require spacers and a longer M10 bolt, or modifying by trimming

the mounting tab as required to bold to cylinder head.

9. Install modified dipstick tube and bolt. – 15mm


Reassembly Procedure (cont.)

3” X-Pipe Install

1. Install spark plug wires, ignition coils, vacuum lines, and any unplugged hoses or

wiring connections.

2. Reinstall strut tower brace and trim covers. – 18mm

Under the Car

3. Install front O2 sensors and connect to O2 extension harness – secure with cable

ties away from exhaust or moving parts -- ⅞” / 22mm

*Check and move any wiring harness, heat shield, or tubing is not near

exhaust; move and secure as necessary.

1. Starting from the front, install left front and right front slip-fit pipes over headers

with 3” band clamps – rotate band clamps for best clearance and access.

2. Leave approximately ¼” of the header collector visible on each side for now.

3. Adjust for optimal clearance to body and transmission and then snug clamps

enough to provide slight resistance, but do not fully torque down yet – the clamps

will be tightened after adjustments are made.

a. The ends of these front pipes will end in the tunnel behind the

transmission.

4. Install the X-pipe over the front pipes using 3” band clamps.

5. Fully install the X-pipe over the front pipes and snug down clamps but do not

torque. – 15mm


3” X-Pipe Install (cont.)

Adjustments

1. If axle-back is removed, install it into the exhaust hangers for the next steps.

2. Install both left and right axle-back connection pipes onto the axle-back with 3”

and 2 ½“ clamps. These will slide on further than their final position so that they

can slip forward onto the X-pipe when in position.

*The rear connection pipes are side-specific and follow the tunnel profile for best

clearance. If the exhaust hangs too low, it is likely that the pipes are interchanged

left to right.

*Deburr and clean the axle-back slip-fit so the exhaust can slide easier (WD40).

3. After the connection pipes are installed over the factory axle-back pipes, then you

can put the exhaust into position and slide the exhaust back forward and over the

rear of the X-pipe. Don’t forget the rear X-pipe clamps! Adjust these connection

pipes and axle-back for the best body, heat shield, and frame clearance and then

snug clamps. – 15mm

1. CTS-V has minimal room for exhaust variance, and he exhaust system will need

extra care to position properly. Please be patient with the adjustments, you

cannot expect the exhaust to fit right away without spending time to adjust it. The

front pipes and connection pipes are main adjustment points.

2. The header mounting holes are slightly oversized so that the collector of the

header can tilt upward or downward.


Adjustments (cont.)

3. Often the weight of the header will put it in the right location as you torque the

header bolts, but slight adjustments can be made at the header that makes about

a ¼“ difference at the header collector if needed.

4. Turn and just left and right front pipes to give best clearance on frame,

transmission pan, and cross-member.

*Holding the exhaust in position using a temporary spacer between the exhaust

and tighter areas helps if a 2nd set of hands are not available.

5. The X-pipe rarely needs adjustments itself, although as a point of reference, it

should be centered as best as possible in the tunnel.

6. Lastly, adjust the rear connection pipes and exhaust axle-back for best body

clearance.

7. Repeat all steps if needed to adjust full exhaust for best fitment.

a. This may need to be repeated several times as you work from front to

rear for best exhaust positioning.

8. Once exhaust is installed satisfactorily then you can securely torque all band

clamps to 40-44 lb feet.

9. Further minor adjustment may be required after road testing or heat cycle are

performed.

Finish installation by verifying nothing is against exhaust and reconnect battery to

start car. Initial startup will yield noxious exhaust fumes due to residual oil from

manufacturing. Startup the car in a well-ventilated area, allowing these odors to

burn off.

*Exhaust may need to be readjusted after warm up cycle or driving due to

expansion settling.


More Information & Help

Call: 512.863.0900 Monday – Friday. (9:30 AM – 6:00 PM CST)

E-mail: [email protected]

Address: Texas Speed & Performance

1621 Aviation Dr., Ste 105

Georgetown, TX 78628

mailto:[email protected]

2009-2013 cts-v header installation instr (1) (3).pdfheaders install from bottom, move interfering...

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