2 stitchology - woven nxpowerlite nxpowerlite
TRANSCRIPT
How To Overcome Common SeamQuality Issues
How To Overcome Common SeamQuality Issues
Better understanding of common stitch types and where they are typically used.
How to better communicate with vendors so mistakes are eliminated
Single Needle Three Thread Overedge
LOCKSTITCH
COVERSTITCH
OVEREDGE
CHAINSTITCH
LOCKSTITCH BARTACK
BLINDSTITCH
ISO Std. 4915
From Fed. Std. 751aNew ASTM Std. D-6193
A global numbering system designed for improving communications
406 Stitch Type
406 is a two needle, three thread bottom coverstitch
What Kind of Stitchis This?
Every Stitch is formed with at least One
Needle Thread and up to Four Needle
Threads All stitch types are formed with a Stitch
Forming DeviceIs there morethan one type of Stitch Forming
Device?
Spreader
A Stitch forming device
that carries someone else's
thread
Hook
A Stitch forming device that
interlocks the needle thread with a bobbin
thread.
Looper
A Stitch forming device that interloops its thread with another thread.
751a Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number
Single Thread Chainstitch 101
Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch BS, BH or Bartack
* 304 Lockstitch is preferred when stitch security is a Must.
101
or
304
Single Thread Blindstitch
No stitch visible on the Bottom or Outside of Sewn Product 103
Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom 301
Twin Needle Lockstitch 301
Zig Zag Lockstitch 304
Chainstitch Looper Thread on Bottom 401
Twin Needle Chainstitch 401
2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406
3 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 407
Stitch Drawing
Multi-Thread Chainstitchwith Looper
Lockstitchwith Hook & Bobbin
ISO4915
Single Thread Chainstitchwith spreader
Spreader
Hook
Looper
2 Thread Overedge Single "purl" on Edge 503
3 Thread Overedge Most Common Overedge Stitch 504
3 Thread Overedge Double "purl" on Edge 505
Mock Safety Stitch 2 Ndl. Overedge 512
2 Ndl. 4 Thrd. Overedge 2 Ndl. Overedge 514
5 Thrd. Safety Stitch 516
2 Ndl. 4 Thrd. Coverstitch 602
3 Ndl. 5 Thrd. Coverstitch 605
4 Ndl. 6 Thrd. Coverstitch Flatseamer / Flatlock 607
Coverstitchwith 2, 3, or 4 needles &
looper & top spreader
Single Needle Overedge
with 1 needle & Loopers
and/or spreader
Twin Needle Overedgewith 2 needles & 2 Loopers
Safetystitch(401 chainstitch & 504
Overedge stitch)
Stitch Drawing -Top and bottom view as sewn on the
sewing machine.
ISO Stitch # - The ISO 4915 Stitch Type.
Common Applications - Common applications where
this stitch is used.
406Attaching
Elastic
4062 Needle
Hem
406Coverseaming
406Making
Belt Loops
Requirements - Requirements like needle spacing,
width bite, SPI, etc.
1/4”
1/8”
1/4”
1/4”
ISO CommonTop View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirements Stitch Description
Single Thread Chainstitch 101
Basting Stitch for Tailored Clothing;
Bag Closing 1) Specify SPI
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlooping with itself on the underside of the seam with the assistance of a spreader.
Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch BS, BH or Bartack
* 304 Lockstitch is preferred when stitch security is a Must.
101
or
304
Buttonsew, Buttonhole or
Bartack
1) Buttonsew - specify stitches per cycle, ex.16 ; 2) BH - specify length &
width; 3) Bartack - specify length & width of
Tack
Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches. Note: Sometimes buttonhole machine set for approximately 40- 45 stitches per buttonhole, and then run two cycles on the same buttonhole. This
Single Thread Blindstitch
No stitch visible on the Bottom or Outside of Sewn Product 103
Blindstitch Hemming, Felling, Belt Loops
1) Specify SPI - typically 3 - 5 spi; 2) Non-Skipped Stitch or 2 to 1 Skipped Stitch on sheer fabrics
Stitch is formed with one needle thread that is interlooped with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread passes through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without completely penetrating it the full depth.
Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom 301
Topstitching, Single Needle Stitching, Straight Stitching 1) Specify SPI
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom.
Twin Needle Lockstitch 301 Twin Needle
1) Specify Needle Spacing; and 2) Specify
SPISame as 301 except two rows of stitch are formed. Typical Needle Spacing is 1/4" but machines are available from 3/16" up to 1"
Zig Zag Lockstitch
Chainstitch Looper Thread on Bottom 401
Single Ndl Chainstitch - Mainseams on
Wovens 1) Specify SPIStitch formed by 1 needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1 looper thread and pulled up to the underside of the seam.
Twin Needle Chainstitch 401
Twin Needle Chainstitch for Felled
Seams on Jeans, Shirts, etc.
1) Specify Needle Spacing; and 2) Specify
SPI
Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooped with 2 looper threads forming 2 independent rows of stitch set on the underside of the seam.
2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406
2 Ndl Hemming, Binding,
Coverseaming, Elastic to Panties,
Belt Loops
1) Specify Needle Spacing (1/4", 3/16", 1/8"); and 2) Specify
SPI
Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverage on the bottom side only.
3 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 407
Attaching Elastic to Men's & Boys Knit
Underwear
1) Specify Needle Spacing (1/4"); and 2)
Specify SPI
Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread is interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverage on the bottom side only.
Stitch Drawing
Stitch Description - explanation of how the stitch is formed.
• Identification• Application• Advantages & Disadvantages• Proper Stitch Formation
Common Woven Garments
• Shirts & Blouses• Slacks / Trousers• Dresses & Skirts• Chinos & Jeans• Suits / Blazers / Sport Coats• Pajamas / Robes• Rain Coats / Overcoats /Parkas• Vests• Uniforms
Cutting Room
This is the cutting table where layers of fabric are spread out and garment components are cut. Here we see pants panels being cut. Usually fabric for pants is spread face-to-face so you end up with pairs of fronts, backs, pockets, etc.
In a GarmentFactory, what happens in theCutting Room?
The length direction of the fabric on the cutting table is called the Warp direction; perpendicular across the table is called the Weft or Fill direction; and at an angle across the piece goods is referred to as the bias. Most woven fabrics have a selvedge edges.
Weaving Machine
Creel of Yarn feeding in to Weaving Machine
Most Common Stitches Used &
Why
Common Stitch Types
• 301 Lockstitch• 401 Chainstitch• 503 or 504 Overedge• 515 or 516 Safetystitch• 304 Bartacking• 101 or 304 Buttonsew or BH• 103 Blindstitch
301301401401
516516304
101101
504504
406
401401What are
common Stitchesused to sew
Wovens?
Common Stitches Used in ShirtsAmerican & Efird, Inc.
Runstitch & Topstitch Collar
Hem Bottom
Pocket Hem &
Set Pocket
Set-on Center Plait
301 Lockstitch
401 Chainstitch
301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
Close Sleeve & Sideseams401 Chainstitch
or516 Safety Stitch
Buttonsew101 Chainstitch B.S.
or 304 Lockstitch B.S.
(Reversible & Turning Corners)
( Turning Corners)
( Reversible)
( No Bobbin Changes &Less Seam Puckering)
( No Bobbin Changes &Less Seam Puckering)
American & Efird, Inc.
Common Stitches Used in Denim
Waistbanding
Sideseam Felling Riser, Seat
Seam & Inseam
Hanging Front Pkts.,“J” Stitch Fly, Crotch
Seam401 Chainstitch -2 Rows
301 Lockstitch - Twin Ndl.
401 Chainstitch -2 or 3 Rows
516 Safetystitch
( Reversible)( No Bobbin Changes)
( No Bobbin Changes & Cover Fabric Edge)
( No Bobbin Changes & Clean Finish Top & Bottom)
Uses a Hook & Bobbin
American & Efird, Inc.
Top View Bottom View Application
301 Lockstitch- Plainsewer- Topstitching- Seaming301 Lockstitch looks the same
on both the top and bottom.
A 301 Lockstitch is the most
common type ofStitch!
301 Lockstitch Advantages• Reversible
Clean-edge Hemming Folder
301 Lockstitch is Reversible
Outside of garment
•Recommended when turning corners
•Tightest Seam Construction minimizing “Seam Grinning”
•Low Seam Profile/Better Hand
•Will not unravel
•Capable of Back Tacking
A 301 Lockstitch has many advantages
and that is why itis so common!
Backtacking is usedto prevent a seam fromunraveling!
Automatic Pocket Setter
301 Lockstitch Advantages• Capable of Multi-direction sewing
The most common pattern for a bartack includes 3 rows of line stitches and then numerous cross-over or zig-zag stitches - a total of 28 stitches per tack.
Bartacks are generally used to reinforce seams to prevent the seam from degrading. Typical locations for bartacks include: corners of pockets, at edge of seam to prevent the chain from unraveling, etc.
Bobbin Winder
Bartackers are Cycle Machines
sewing a predetermined number of stitches
Bartacks - are used to reinforce seams at stress points or attach Belt Loops. Specify the length & width of the Tack. Most bartacks have 28 stitches per cycle. Bartacks should be the correct length and width.
301 Lockstitch Disadvantages
• Constant Bobbin Changes
• Not as Elastic as Chainstitch or Overedge
Changing bobbinsall day must
take away a lot oftime from
production!
Looper
American & Efird, Inc.
A chainstitch will only unravelfrom the underside of the seam … and fromthe last stitch formed.
Top View Bottom View Application
401 Stitch- Main Seams One of the Most Common stitches
ONE LOOPER THREADONE NEEDLE THREAD
Chainstitch - generallyused for mainseamson woven apparel!
Looper
Advantages• No Bobbin Changes - fewer restitched
seams
• Greater Seam Strength - fewer opened
seams
• Greater Seam Elasticity - fewer opened
seams
• Higher Machine Speeds - higher
productivity
• Multi-Rows of Stitch - for special
applicationsLooper
Both the needle and looperthreads come right off the
cone?
This machine hasfour needles and
four loopers producing four
rows of chainstitch
This Machine has four needles and four loopers making four independent rows of 401 chainstitch. It is equipped with a metering device to stretch the elastic
and a folder for folding the fabric.
Close-CoupledPuller
Metering Device
Disadvantages
• Can unravel easily from last stitch
formed• Can unravel if a skipped stitch
occurs• Can unravel if the stitch is broken• Not recommended when turning
corners
Serging - generally refers to the covering of the edge to prevent the edge from unraveling. All three stitches can be used for serging but a 503 stitch uses the least amount of thread.
Serging - was one of the ways to
prevent the edge of wovens fromunraveling
Top View Bottom View Application
503 Stitch- Serging (single purl -
less thread consumption)
504 Stitch- Seaming and / or
Serging
505 Stitch- Serging (double purl -
best coverage of edge)
American & Efird, Inc.
Two threads - needle & looper
Three threads - needle & 2 loopers
Three threads - needle & 2 loopers
Safetystitch - amachine that produces
a chainstitch & overedgesimultaneously
516 Safety Stitch(401 & 504 stitches
simultaneously)
How many threadswould this machine
take?
Top View Bottom View Application
515 Stitch- Safety stitch Seaming
516 Stitch- Safety stitch Seaming
* Both 401 Chainstitch & Overedge stitches are sewn simultaneously.
Four threads - 401 & 503
Five threads - 401 & 504
American & Efird, Inc.
KEYS TO PROPER TRIMMING•Trimming Knives kept Sharp and set with the Proper Trim Angle.•Trimming Width Set Correctly with Needle Plate to achieve Proper Seam Margin
Poor
Qual
ity
Poor
Qual
ity
Overedge Machines have a Knife that Trims the Material prior to Forming the Stitch
Upper &Lower Knives
Stitch Tongue orChaining Finger
where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge. This often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slick surface. Also caused by loosely constructed fabrics.
Possible Solutions Increase the Seam Margin Optimize the Stitches Per Inch Change to a different Seam Construction
• Stitch & restitched seam• French Seam
Inside of Seam
Inside of Seam
UNRAVELING BUTTONS - generally where a tail of thread is visible on the topside of the button and when pulled, the button falls off.
Automatic Buttonsew Machine
Bobbin Winder
Generally a button sewn
on with a lockstitch
buttonsewer will not
unravel giving a more secure
button attachment.
BH
Purl Stitch - where the purl is
pulled to the top of the buttonhole
edge.
Whip Stitch - where the purl is
pulled to the center or bottom of
the buttonhole edge.
Dress/ Casual Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed vertically, with approximately 85-90 stitches, and is usually done with a lockstitch buttonhole machine.
Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches, and is usually done with a lockstitch buttonhole machine. Note: Knit plants have a tendency to use a buttonhole machine set for approximately 40- 45 stitches per buttonhole, and then run two cycles on the same buttonhole. This gives better coverage on the knit fabric so there are less fibers protruding from under the thread.
American & Efird, Inc.
Common Stitches Used in Slacks or Trousers
Serge Pants Panels
Make Back Darts
Hem Bottoms
503 - 2 Thd. Overedge
103 Blindstitch 301 Lockstitch
301 Lockstitch
Set Front Pockets & J Stitch Fly
Sideseam, Inseam, Seat Seam401 Chainstitch
( Reversible & LowSeam Profile)
( No Bobbin Changes &Higher Machine Speeds)
( Cover Raw Edge & Less Thread Consumption than 3 Thread Stitch)
( Tightest stitch minimizingSeam Grinning)
Top View Bottom View Application
103 Stitch- Blindstitch - Hemming - Belt Loops - Felling
American & Efird, Inc.
Blindstitch machines have a penetration adjustment that determines the amount of thread or “dimple” seen on the outside of the garment. Generally it is desirable to see no thread on the outside of the garment.
Improper Needle Penetration - The thread should not show on the outside of the garment. Too much needle penetration.
Ridge FormerUsed to determine penetration
Spreader
Fabric
CurvedNeedle
Feed Platen
PenetrationAdjustment
SkippedStitch Setting
What is meant by 1 to 1 non-skip or 2 to 1 skip stitch?
•Restitched Seams•Broken Stitches•Improper Stitch Formation•Seam Puckering
RESTITCHED SEAMS - where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. Caused by thread breakage during sewing or broken stitches during laundry that have been repaired.
If this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise.
MINIMIZING THREAD BREAKAGE - 1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions. (see A&E "Thread Selection Guide" and/or A&E's Technical Bulletin "Minimizing Thread Breakage & Skipped Stitches"); 2) Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments; 3) Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation; (see A&E's Technical Bulletin - "Machine Maintenance Checklist". 4) Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.
IMPROPER STITCH BALANCE - 301 LOCKSTITCH - where loops are seen either on the bottomside or topside of the seam. This is particularly evident with different colored needle and bobbin threads. Also where the stitch is too loose.
Malformed Stitches
Loose Stitches
Needle & Bobbin threads meet in Center of Seam
Top Bottom
Always Check Bobbin Case Thread Tension 1st! Use the “yo-yo” method to check the Bobbin Tension,
if possible.
Adjusting Bobbin Tension
Checking the Bobbin tensionon a flat surface will let you
know if the bobbin has been damaged.
Next, pull thread up through Needle Plate needle hole & check Bobbin Tension
Sometimes thread gets wrapped around the spindle in the basket which will apply tension against the bobbin.
Sewing with light thread tension will minimize: Skips Thread Breaks Seam Failures Seam Cracking Seam Puckering
Why is sewing with lightNeedle Thread Tension
Important?
IMPROPER STITCH BALANCE - 401 CHAINSTITCH - where the loops on the bottom-side of the seam are inconsistent and do not
appear uniform.
NeedleThread
LooperThread
How do you check thestitch balance on a
chainstitch?
Needle Thread lays over half way to next Needle penetration on the underside of the seam
Unbalanced Stitches
Too much Needle Thread
Needle Thread too tight!Poor Quality
Poor Quality
SKIPPED STITCHES - where the stitch length is inconsistent, possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length; or where you can see that the threads in the stitch are not properly connected together. Caused by the stitch forming device in the sewing machine missing the thread loop during stitch formation causing a defective stitch. On looper type stitches, this will allow the stitch to unravel causing seam failure.
Skips on Chainstitch
Skips on Lockstitch
Skips on Overedge
Crossing Seams
Yarn Displacement (Structural Jamming)
Tension Puckering (Excessive Thread Tension)
Machine Puckering (Uneven ply feeding)
What are the Major Causesof Seam Puckering on
Wovens?
EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING - WOVENS - where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitch line. Caused by one of the following:
1) Yarn Displacement or Structural Jamming - caused by sewing tightly constructed fabrics with too large of thread that causes the yarns in the seam to be displaced, giving a puckered appearance
2) Tension Puckering - where the thread has been stretched and sewn into the seam. The thread then causes the seam to draw back and pucker
3) Feed Puckering - where the plies of fabric in the seam are not being aligned properly during sewing
Filling
Warp
Bias
Where the thread is displacing theyarns in the fabric causing the seamto pucker. This occurs mostoften in the Warp direction.
Carefully clip the thread between adjacent needle penetrations along the seam and observe if the puckering remains in the fabric or goes away. If the puckering is still in the seam after the threads are clipped, then yarn displace-ment is the probable cause.
A&E Size & Strength Comparison
Tex Size Perma Core D-Core Perma SpunEx-Light Weight T-18 2.0 1.4
T-21 1.6
Light Weight T-24 2.8 2.3
T-27 2.1
T-30 3.8 3.2
T-35
Medium Weight T-40 4.5 4.1 3.3
T-45 3.6
T-50 6.7 4.7
Heavy Weight T-60 8.7 7.3 5.0
T-70 6.3
T-80 9.6 7.7
T-90 7.6
T-105 11.5 8.2 9.7
Ex-Heavy Weight T-120 14.6 11.4 10.6
* Strength in lbs. And is based on current averages.
Use the smallest thread size available that will maintain adequate seam strength and sewing performance. In some cases it may be necessary to go to a different thread type and take advantage of its higher tenacity (example: going from a T-30 spun polyester to a T-18 or T-24 Perma Core).
Regular Point Long Point
The length from the butt to the
top of the eye is the same. Only
the point is longer.
Use smallest needle size possible that will not cause excessive sewing problems. We recommend a needle with a longer needle point so that it will have less resistance as it penetrates the seam.
On left, seam placed parallel to the warp yarns. On the right, seam placed at angle of 15°.
When possible, cut the garment pieces so they can be sewn on the bias or in a direction that allows the different yarns in the construction of the fabric to be displaced.
100
200
300
400
500
4 8 12 16 20
Ten
sio
n (
Gra
ms
)
Elongation %24
600
700
800
Higher Initial ModulusLow Initial Modulus
Spun PolyesterPW or CW Core
Caused By Thread Tensionsbeing too Tight!
Identification:
Carefully clip the thread between adjacent needle penetrations along the seam and observe if the puckering is reduced in the fabric. If it is, then excessive thread tension is the probable cause of the seam puckering.
Use very light machine thread tensions. Begin by setting the bottom thread tension (bobbin or looper) as light as possible but still maintain the proper thread control. Next adjust the needle thread tension to a minimum level necessary to maintain a closed seam and a balanced stitch. This not only reduces the elongation of the thread in the seam, but also improves loop formation and sewability.
Reduce the thread size Use a needle with a ball eye needle Use a larger needle size
• On 401 Chainstitch machines, adjust the stitch balance so the needle loops on the bottom side of the seam lay over at least half way to the next needle penetration when the looper thread is unraveled out of the seam. The looper thread must also be as loose as possible.
Feed puckering occurs when one of the fabric plies is fed into the seam at a different rate than the other ply or plies.
Puckeringon one side
of seam
Puckeringon one side
of seam
Feed Pucker is identifiedwhen the puckering isprimarily on one side
of the seam!
•Use the minimum presser foot pressure
Too much Pressure will cause excessive Feed Puckering. It is desirable to have just enough pressure to feed without stalling.
IDENTIFICATION:
Make two perpendicular cuts across a sewn seam where the puckered condition is the greatest - see Figure 4. Remove the thread in the seam and see if the two plies are of equal length.
•The feed dog should have the optimum teeth per inch and number of rows of teeth for the operation and fabric being sewn.
•Light weight wrinkle resistant fabrics 20 - 24 teeth per inch.
•Medium weight fabrics 14 - 18 teeth per inch.
•Heavy weight fabrics 8 - 12 teeth per inch.
•Use a low friction presser foot: Teflon coated, roller bearing, “feeding foot”, etc. Use an “anti-puckering” needle plate with a retaining spring that holds back on the bottom ply to match the top ply.
•Use machines equipped with a needle feed or compound feed mechanism where the needle moves with the feed as the fabric is being sewn. This “pinning” of the plies as they are being fed helps reduce feed puckering.
Feeding Foot - A special presser foot designed to help feed the top ply in with the bottom feed.
Puller Feed - A feed system that includes a close-coupled Puller to help pull the top ply in at the same rate as the bottom ply. Used only for straight seams.
• Dress Shirt or blouse ????– Light Weight tightly woven fabric– Fabric susceptible to seam puckering– You have determined that the cause of the
puckering is Structural Jamming
• Which of the following would help minimize Structural Jamming Puckering?
A) Using more stitches per inch and making sure the stitch is balance properly.
B) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for back-feeding.
C) Use the smallest needle and thread possible. Decrease the number of spi, if possible.
D) None of the above.
• Microfiber Jacket ????– Medium Weight tightly woven fabric– Fabric susceptible to seam puckering– You have determined that the cause of the
puckering is Tension Puckering
• Which of the following would help minimize Tension Puckering?A) Use fewer stitches per inch and making sure the
stitch is pulled up tight to minimize seam grinning.B) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for
back-feeding.C) Use the smallest needle and thread possible.
Decrease the number of spi, if possible.D) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first
and then adjust the needle thread tension.
• Casual Pants or Shorts ????– Medium weight woven fabric– You have determined that the cause of the
puckering is Feed Puckering
• Which of the following would help minimize Feed Puckering?
A) Use the smallest needle and thread possible. Decrease the number of spi, if possible.
B) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for proper Operator handling.
C) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first and then adjust the needle thread tension.
D) None of the above.
• Stretch Denim Jean ????– You are experiencing excessive puckering on the seams– You have determined that the cause of the puckering is Feed Puckering
• Which of the following would help minimize Feed Puckering?A) Use fewer stitches per inch and making sure the
stitch is pulled up tight to minimize seam grinning.B) Use minimum pressure on the Foot and check for
back-feeding. Observe operator for correct handling.C) Use the smallest needle and thread possible.
Decrease the number of spi, if possible.D) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first
and then adjust the needle thread tension.
• Woven Dress - Hem Sleeve ????– Light weight tightly woven fabric– Seam OK immediately after sewing
but then puckers after sitting for 20 minutes– You have determined that the cause of the
puckering is Tension Puckering
• Which of the following would help minimize Tension Puckering?A) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for back-
feeding.B) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first and
then adjust the needle thread tension. C) Use a fine size corespun thread (T-18 or M180) that resists
stretching during sewingD) Use the smallest needle possible. Make sure the needle
hole in the needle plate is as small as possible minimizing flagging.