17024922 plumbing projects basic how to

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do-it-yourself project helpPlumbing

How-to Information Basics Kitchens

Fitting Plastic Pipe Repairing Toilets

Sweating Copper Water Lines Repairing Faucets

Installing Shut-off Valves Unclogging Drains

Bathrooms Plumbing Glossary

Additional Resources books

Bathrooms Kitchens

Code Books Plumbing

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Bathrooms Plumbing

Kitchens

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PlumbingBasics

A plumbing systemperforms the simple job of

supplying water to the house and removing its wastewater.

Because a plumbing system ties into a sewer/septicsource, it must prevent the possible danger of sewergases seeping back into the waste pipes. So, we'll talkabout how vents and drain traps handle that problem.

q Drain-Waste-Vent System

q Water Supply System

For definitions of terms used throughout this project see Plumbing Glossary.

Drain-Waste-Vent (DWV) System

The drain-waste-vent system transports all the usedwater and waste from the house to the septic/sewersystem. It's a network of drain pipes that runs to allthe sinks, toilets, baths, showers, and washer.

Most newer waste systems use rigid plastic PVC(polyvinyl chloride) or ABS (acrylonitrile butadienestyrene) pipe that are sealed with glue. Older homes

generally have had cast iron pipe sealed with leadsolder.

However, today's homes may utilize cast iron pipe sealed with neoprene in someplaces as a way to avoid the noise plastic creates when water is draining through

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it.

The soil stack is the main component of the waste drain. It's a vertical "stack" of pipes that starts in the basement/crawlspace floor or wall where it's connected tothe outbound sewer/septic line.

The top end of the stack acts as a vent. It extends vertically out through the roof,allowing gases to escape outside and also helps promote drain flow by drawing airinward.

A plugged vent can trap dangerous gases and inhibits drainage; similar to plugginga drinking straw with your thumb to hold liquid.

Make sure the vent doesn't terminate in the attic. Trappedsewer gases can be dangerous, stink and cause seriousstructural problems. And a system without a vent may actuallysuck water out a sink's trap, or do the reverse and fill the sinkwith water when another fixture drains.

A trap blocks sewer/septic gases. Without one, sewer gasescan flow up the stack, drain pipes and come out whereverthere's a drain. A trap looks like an "U" and is installed belowthe drain.

When water drains, the trap's shape causes a small amount of water to remain inthe bend. That water blocks any gases from moving up the pipe and entering theroom.

NOTE: Traps are needed on all drains. That is, sinks, tubs, showers,washers, floor drains all need to have a trap in their drain lines. In

most cases, a toilet has a built-in trap and doesn't require a trap in thedrain line.

Water Supply System A house's water supply may come from a private well or aservice pipe that connects to a city water main. In mostcases, either water source is located in the basement/crawlspace.

A house with a private well utilizes a pump to push water upinto a pressure tank where it is stored for use. When the tankempties, the pump is reactivated to fill the tank.

A house with city water has a "live" water supply line that'sconnected to a water main and a water meter. The meter isusually the dividing point between the city-owned lines andthe homeowner's lines.

Both systems usually have a 1/2" or larger copper pipe that



enters through the basement floor or wall. The line has ashut-off valve located near the beginning of the incomingline so the water supply can be stopped in case of repairs oran emergency.

Water supply lines are made of copper, CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride)plastic, or in older homes possibly galvanized steel. Cold water lines branch outfrom the main pipe, while hot water lines originate from the hot water heater.

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Pg 2

PlumbingFitting Plastic Pipe

To safeguard againsthealth hazards, most

areas of the country require your plumbing project tocomply with local regulations; however small the job.

Codes vary and certain areas may not allow plasticpipe to be used. Check with your local buildingauthority to find out about codes, permits andinspections.

q Types of Pipe

q Cutting & Fitting

q Gluing Pipe

For definitions of terms used throughout this project see Plumbing Glossary.

WARNING: DOING WORK WITHOUT A PERMIT IS NOT ONLY ILLEGAL, BUTMAY ALSO INVALIDATE YOUR HOMEOWNER'S INSURANCE.

Types Of Pipe

Rigid plastic PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and ABS (acrylonitrilebutadiene styrene) are the most popular types of plasticplumbing pipe.

PVC is usually white or cream colored and ABS is black. Bothare typically used only for vents and drains and aren't madeto fit directly together.

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CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) is another rigid plasticused for hot and cold water supply lines because it can handle

normal water pressure loads.

Compared to copper lines, CPVC is lightweight, easy to work with, doesn't corrodeand may be priced about 3/4ths less.

Cutting & Fitting

Cut plastic pipe to length with a hacksaw, or abrasive disk of a miter saw/chop saw. After each cut, clean out the smallburrs/shavings that remain inside the pipe with a knife, ragor emery cloth.

Dry fit the entire run of pipe you're installing before gluingpipe and fittings together.

Check small pipes and fittings for plumb/level with atorpedo level. Also, double check the drain flow;about 1/4" per 1' as a general guide.

A fitting that's glued crooked can sometimes throwoff the whole run and/or won't fit properly with thenext piece. Discover these problems during the dryfit rather than after the pipe is glued.

Gluing Pipe Plastic pipe joints are connected with glue that actually meltsthe pieces together. The joints for both PVC and ABS areglued the same way, but the types aren't interchangeableand only a special fitting can connect them together.

To glue ABS pipe, check that any cut ends are fairly straight.Remove any burrs with a knife or emery cloth and clean both

pieces with a rag. Apply ABS glue to both the pipe andfitting.

Push the joints together with a twisting motion to spread theglue. Hold the joints together for a few seconds so theywon't push apart while the fast-drying glue sets.

Gluing PVC pipe is a similar process, but a cleaning chemical(primer) that prepares the plastic goes on before the glue.CPVC pipe also has its own type of glue so be sure to

purchase the glue that matches the plastic you're workingwith.



Once the joint is primed, apply the glue, push and twist the pipe or fitting and holdthem in place for a few seconds.

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Pg 3

PlumbingSweating Copper Water Lines

Copper is a popular materialfor water supply line. It's

durable pipe that handles high water pressure loads andis relatively easy to work with.

However, copper is expensive and may cost up to threetimes more than plastic CPVC (chlorinated polyvinylchloride) pipe.

Copper lines fit together with lead-free, solid-core solder. The soldering processinvolves heating the pipe and is commonly called "sweating."

For definitions of terms see Plumbing Glossary.

Prepping & Soldering Lines

Before cutting any "live" water lines, make sure thewater supply valve is off. Open the house's highest andlowest faucets to drain the water lines.

NOTE: Even a small amount of water in a copper line can prevent the joint from heating up enough to accept solder.

Cut the pipe with a hacksaw or a tube cutter by gradually tightening it to score andcut the pipe. Some cutters also have a triangular reamer that can be used toremove burrs.

Sand both the fitting and pipe surfaces to be soldered with a wire brush or emery

cloth and wipe clean with a rag. Then apply flux on both pieces. Flux prevents the joint from oxidizing and helps solder flow and bond to the copper.
















Fit the pieces together and heat the joint with a propanetorch. It should only take up to 30 seconds to get thetemperature hot enough to melt solder.

Pull the solder across the heated joint. The solder shouldvirtually suck up in and around the joint. If the joint stilldoesn't melt solder, there may be water in the line.

Quickly wipe away any excess solder with a rag and allow

the joint to cool and set up.

Once you're done soldering the run, brace the pipe between joists with brackets/braces to prevent them from banging and stuff insulation in any holes in joists thatthe pipes go through.

Prevent fasteners from puncturing water lines, nail up protective plates acrossframing members.

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Pg 4

PlumbingInstalling Shut-off Valves

A basic, but most importantinstallation is including shut-off

valves on hot and/or cold water lines and plumbing fixtures.

Strategically placed shut-offs are nice features to havewhen working on plumbing fixtures, a washer or hot waterheater.

For example, anytime a fixture needs repair (or installationin new construction situations) its individual shut-off allows

the rest of the house to remain "live."


In-Line Shut-Offs In-line lever or "wheel" shut-offs are popular types of primary shut-off fittings. They're usually made of brass withcopper fittings for soldering.

Install an in-line shut-off -- copper to copper -- by markingthe center of its location on the existing water line.

Shut off the water supply and cut the line. Sometimes, thepipe will spread enough to accomodate the shut-off. If not, cut back the pipe sothe valve sets in-line.

Clean both ends of the fitting and both pieces of pipe. Open the valve beforeheating it to protect the rubber seal from being damaged.

Flux all four ends and fit the shut-off onto the pipe. Position the valve straight andheat and solder each joint. Wipe away any excess solder with a rag.
















Compression Fittings

Shut-offs to toilets and sinks are generally chrome-plated,oval handled compression fittings.

Turn off the main water supply and cut off the end cap of

the copper water line, leaving enough pipe exposed so theshut-off will fit properly.

Fit any decorative cover (escutcheon)over the line, followed by the compression nut andcompression ring (ferrule). Test fit the valve over the lineand position the ring to meet the threads.

Screw on the compression nut by hand. Then tighten itdown firmly with an adjustable wrench while holding the

valve in place with another wrench.

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Pg 5

PlumbingBathrooms

Plumbing an entire bathroom mayseem like a big project and in

some cases it is. Running all the waste and water linesthrough floor joists and walls can take some planning and trialand error.

That's the hard part of plumbing a bathroom and it's differentfor each project. Take some extra time to draw out your plansto make sure you'll be running lines the best way possible.

Once you've run the waste and water lines, the rest of the job involves getting allthe fixtures in place and hooking them up.


q Setting Toilets

q Installing Pedestal Sinks

q Installing Vanity Sinks

q Connecting Vanity Sinks

q Hooking Up A Tub/Shower

q Connecting Tub/Shower Water Lines

Setting Toilets

Most toilets are assembled in two pieces: a bowl and atank. Setting both pieces as one unit can be awkwardand heavy. If possible, install the bowl first, then the

tank.

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The fitting that connects the toilet to the waste pipe isthe closet flange. In new construction, this piece isprobably already roughed-in.

To install a closet flange, dry fit it into the waste pipe so it sets level on the floor.Glue it into place so the slots will line up with the toilet bolt holes.

NOTE: The closet flange may be plugged with a rag. Or the flangemay have a plastic "seal" in its center. It's made that way to block sewer gases until the toilet is set. Knock out the piece or remove the

rag when you're ready to set the toilet.

Position the closet bolts in their slots. Turn the toilet upside down and fit a waxring gasket onto the toilet's outlet (horn).

Set the toilet over the bolts and onto the flange. An easyway to seat the ring is to literally sit on the toilet and rock ita bit.

Then put a level on the rim of the bowl and shim the base if

needed. Snug, but don't overtighten, the nuts and washersonto the closet bolts and again check the bowl for level.

Attach the tank bolts/nuts to the bowl (with the nuts outsideso they don't rust). Hook up the water line, fill the tank, andadjust the float as needed. Finally, caulk around the base.

Installing Pedestal Sinks A pedestal sink can provide "openess" to a bathroom --even a small one. It doesn't provide any storage orcounter surface like a vanity, but uses less floor space.And they look nice, too.

Consider using white PVC pipe (not black ABS) if you'reinstalling a light-colored sink. It will likely blend betteralthough that area of the sink is hardly seen.

A pedestal sink is usually a two-piece unit: a stand (base) and a sink. The sinkmounts to a bracket on the wall and also sets on the stand.

Let's assume the water supply lines, shut-off valves, anddrain pipe are roughed-in. Mount the wall bracket for thesink and check that it's level.

Position the stand and test fit the sink on both the bracketand stand, adjusting the stand if necessary.

Remove the sink and mark where the floor bolt goes that



fastens to the stand. Drill a hole and fasten the bolt with anut under the sublfoor or mortar it in, then secure the stand.

Connect the sink's water valves, handles, supply lines, stopper, and drain piece.Set the sink on the bracket and stand. Glue an adaptor coupling with threads tothe drain stub pipe.

Fit the plastic trap piece to the sink drain and adapter. If needed, add a short pieceof PVC pipe to extend through the adapter. Finally, tighten the trap's compressionnuts to the adapter and drain threads.

Installing Vanity Sinks Installing a vanity cabinet and sink is an excellent wayto get more storage and countertop space out of yourbathroom.

Keep in mind your storage needs, size requirements/limitations, and personal tastes when selecting avanity.

The roughed-in stub may already have a threaded adapter glued on and the lineshould be plugged with a rag to stop sewer gases.

The water lines should have caps soldered or glued and you'll need to cut them off once the vanity is set.

Measure the water and drain line locations on the wall. Transpose them to the backof the vanity and cut holes out for them.

Cut the vanity's sink opening if it isn't already. Set the vanity over the lines andagainst the wall. Check that the cabinet is setting level/square and secure it inplace.

Connecting Vanity Sink

Following manufacturer instructions, connect the spout,water valves and handles to the sink. Link the supply teeand hose assembly to the spout.

Our sink had braided steel lines that we looped to thevalves and fastened them with coupling nuts.

Attach the water supply lines to the valves if possible, to avoid reaching up underthe sink later.

Apply plumber's putty around the drain fitting to form a seal and seat the fitting in



the drain hole. Add a washer and slip nut on the bottom and tighten the fitting.

Screw on the drain stopper coupling and its gasket so it lines up with the back of the sink. Feed the stopper's slip arm through the faucet and connect it to thestopper coupling. Push the stopper fully open and tighten the arm down.

Flip the sink upright and set it in the cabinet. Removeany rag or cap plugging the drain stub. Glue a threadedadapter coupling onto the drain stub. Fit the trap andscrew it to the adapter and sink drain.

Tighten the sink water lines to their shut-off valves.Slowly open a shut-off, check for leaks, then check theother line.

Fill the sink, check for leaks around the drain, then drain the water and check thewaste line joints. This will also put water in the trap to stop sewer gases.

Caulk around the rim of the sink to seal out water and to finish off the sinkinstallation.

Hooking Up A Tub/Shower A combination tub/shower unit is an affordable,practical way to save bathroom space.

The following section describes the basics of plumbing

in a tub & shower unit, but free-standing bathtubs areplumbed the same way.

CAUTION: A filled tub can put a lot of weight on floor joists and additional bracing may be needed. Also, a new tub may not fit throughsome doors.

Measure and mark the tub outline on the floor to estimate where the drain will be.

A tub unit may already have its drain and overflow drain installed. Otherwise,connect them before setting the tub.

If possible, lay out the drain pipe to run with joists, instead of across them. If not,you'll have to notch or drill holes in the joists for proper flow. You may also need todouble the notched joists to strengthen the floor.

Run a drain line to the soil stack. Dry fit, then glue a teein the waste line to connect the tub drain and overflow.Add a trap below the tee and try to locate it between joists to avoid notching.



"Dry fit" the tub and double-check that the drainconnections will line up. Set the tub and check that it'slevel.

Shim between the tub and support boards if necessary. Nail the tub flange to thesupports, secure it in place and connect the drains to the tee.

Connecting Tub & Shower Water Lines

Measure the distance across the tub riser's hot and coldinlet fittings. Check that the incoming water lines are thatsame distance apart as the riser fittings.

Shut off the water supply, cut off the water line caps andsolder the riser to the water lines.

Nail a support block about 6' off the floor between two wall

studs and secure the riser to it. Set the tub so the riser fittings extend throughtheir holes.

Check the tub for level and secure it in place. Wrap Teflon® tape (clockwise) onthe riser threads (unless instructions say otherwise).

Screw on the valves with an adjustable wrench and put on the knobs. Hand-tightenthe faucet and shower head. Then tighten them a bit more with a belt-like toolcalled a strap wrench.

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Pg 6

PlumbingKitchens

Plumbing a kitchen isusually one of the last steps

of a remodeling project ornew construction. Thissection covers the majorkitchen plumbing jobs.

q Installing

Kitchen Sinks

q Hanging Garbage Disposers

q Hooking Up Dishwashers


Installing Kitchen Sinks Most of the time a sink will fit perfectly in a precut

countertop opening, but test fit the sink and check that itsets level.

Apply plumber's putty around the sink's drain hole andseat the strainer assembly. Flip the sink upside down,tighten the drain nut and "tailpipe" piece.

Flip the sink upright and install the faucet, valves, andhandles. Tighten down these items and hook up the water

lines to a tee fitting.

You can also hook up the water lines coming into the valves and avoid doing that
















once the sink is set. Set a "self-rimming" sink in the hole and fasten any includedmounting clamps underneath it. Run a bead of clear-drying caulk around the rim.

If the sink isn't self-rimming, run a bead of plumber's putty on the bottom of thelip and caulk the opening to keep water out. Seat the sink and tighten any clamps.

Remove any rags or cap blocking the drain stub and glueon a threaded adapter to the stub. Screw on a trap tothe adapter threads and sink drain.

Screw on water supply lines (if you haven't already) andattach them to the shut-offs. Use a "two-headed" shut-off if you're also going to connect to a dishwasher.

Run some water down the drain to block sewer gases,and check each line and drain joints for leaks.

Hanging Garbage Disposers

The garbage disposer is normally installed with the sink.However, connect the supply lines to the faucet first, so youdon't have to work around the disposer once it's in.

A special strainer and mounting assembly usually come withthe disposer or sink. Attach the assembly with a snap ringand secure it with its included fasteners.

Hang the disposer on the mounting assembly and lineup its drain hole to face the other sink's drain. Attachthe discharge tube to the disposer's housing.

Fit the drain tube into a tee that connects to the othersink drain and the trap. Tighten those connections.Then connect the sink trap to the waste pipe.

NOTE: Most disposers have an inlet that connects to the dishwasher drain. We'll cover that connection in the dishwasher section.

Hooking Up Dishwashers While positioning the dishwasher, feed its flexible drain hoseunder the sink. Get the unit it as level possible and securingit in place.

Fit a hose clamp over the pipe end and attach it to the

dishwasher's waste discharge outlet. Clamp an adapter fittingon the pipe's other end and attach it to the disposer's inlet.



This way, the dishwasher's waste water and debris will runthrough the disposer, then the drain system; which will prevent clogged lines.

Loop the drain hose high up under the sink so if there'sa clog in the sink drain, it won't immediately run downinto the dishwasher. Some local codes may requireadditional measures to prevent this.

Run a copper hot water line to the dishwasher's

connection (in our case, a threaded angle adapter).Run the other end to the two-headed water shut-off.Briefly run the dishwasher through its cycles and check the connections for leaks.

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Pg 7

PlumbingRepairing Toilets

Most methods of repairingtoilets are easy do-it-

yourself steps. The real challenge of fixing a toilet isusually finding the part causing the problem.

A household toilet should have its own shut-off valvelocated somewhere near the fixture. Usually, its achrome-plated compression fitting with an oval knob. Sofind that before making any repairs.

A tank's water level should fill to about 1/4" to 1/2" below the overflow pipe. Bend thefloat arm gently to adjust the water level; down to lower the level or up to raise it.

If the arm is hard to bend or needs to be bent a lot, unscrew it first to avoid damagingthe ball cock assembly. Also, some assemblies have an adjusting screw on the ballcock valve to regulate the water level.

Check that the flapper (or tank ball) seats properly. Flushthe toilet a few times and adjust the flapper until it seats.Adjust its chain connecting to the handle rod if needed.

If the flapper seats correctly, but doesn't stop water, cleanany rust or buildup around the seat opening. If the flappercontinues to leak, replace it.

A faulty ball cock valve (the assembly attached to the float arm) may fill the tank andcause water to run continuously down the overflow tube. Always shut off the watersupply before removing the valve.

Sometimes, the ball cock seals can be replaced and the leak willstop. But finding and fixing the problem may not be worthwhile.

It's often better to buy the whole assembly so you're sure the leakwill be fixed. Or upgrade to an in-line float which seems to operate
















and adjust a little easier than the arm-type float. WARNING: It's easy to crack porcelain when tightening lock nuts so be extra careful when using a wrench. A conditioncalled "back-flow" or "cross-connection" can suck tank water back into the water supply line; contaminating supply water if the ball cock valve is submersed.


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Pg 8

PlumbingRepairing Faucets

There are a few differenttypes and combinations of

faucets: single-handle or two-handled shut-offs thatare compression or washerless (cartridge, ball or discmechanism).

A compression faucet stops water by tightening down arubber washer to block water flow. A washerless faucetuses a rotating mechanism -- like a ball or valve -- to

open and shut water flow.

A compression faucet usually has threaded brass stems that open/close firmly. Acartridge faucet has brass or plastic valves with holes in them and operate moreeasily.

q Tips Before You Start

q Repairing Double-handled Faucets

q Fixing Ball-Type Faucets

q Repairing A Single-Handle Cartridge Faucet


Tips Before You Start

q Close the sink drain to avoid losing any parts.q After locating the leak, shut off both water supplies before

removing any parts.q Tape wrench jaws to avoid marring the faucet's finish.q Write down and/or lay out parts to remember their order.q Buy a repair kit that includes a special adjusting ring wrench,

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seals, springs and O-rings rather than one or two pieces. Washerassortment kits may also be better than more expensive singlewasher packaging.

q If the faucet still leaks after installing a kit, the outer housing isprobably cracked and buying a new faucet is probably the onlyway to fix the leak.

Repairing Double-Handled Faucets If a faucet is leaking, a washer (for compression) or O-ring(for cartridge) probably needs to be replaced.

Pry off the handle's decorative cap to access the knobscrew. Unscrew and remove the knob to expose the stem.Make sure the water is turned off.

For a compression handle, loosen the "packing" nut holdingthe stem. Remove the stem, flip it over and check thecondition of the washer and O-ring. Replace the washer and

O-ring if they show any wear or fraying.

A cartridge handle is repaired about the same way. Liftout the cartridge, check the O-rings and replace them asneeded. As a last resort, replace the cartridge if the leakpersists.

Re-install the assembly, turn on the water and check fordrips. If a compression faucet still leaks, the seat wherethe valve seals may need to be cleaned, or re-cut with aseat cutter tool.

To stop a leak around the handle, add a packing washer over the stem. If an oldcompression type handle still leaks, remove the packing nut and wind packing (astring gauze) around the nut to seal the assembly.

Fixing Ball-Type Faucets

A ball faucet can leak in several places: around thehandle, spout, collar, base. Therefore, we'll describehow to repair the whole works. Yet, fixing your faucetmay only involve one of these steps.

Locating the leak and shut off the water. Remove theset screw holding the handle. Using the kit's wrench,snug down the adjusting ring if it's loose and slowly turnthe water back on to see if the leak has stopped.



If the ring is already tight or the leak persists, turn off the water and remove theadjusting ring.

Take off the plastic or ceramic cam piece and its sealthat sets on the ball valve. Replace the seal if needed.Make a note of how the ball valve slot lines up with itssmall alignment pin then remove the ball.

Most models have two rubber seals and springs that setunder the ball. Remove them, clean out any deposits

and replace with new seals and springs.

On the outside of the housing, cut off the rubber O-rings and roll on new ones andre-install the faucet.

Repairing A Single-Handle Cartridge Faucet After locating the leak and shutting off the water, pry off the faucet's top cap, remove the screw and lift off thehandle piece.

Remove the lock nut and retaining clip holding thecartridge in place. Lift out the cartridge and inspect itsseals. In most cases, the cartridge piece doesn't needreplacing, but any worn or frayed seals should be

replaced.

While the cartridge is out, inspect and replace the O-rings onthe outside of the housing. Just cut them off and roll on newones.

Re-insert the cartridge, align it as removed, and pop on theretaining clip. Fit the faucet back on and tighten down thelock nut. Re-position the handle, screw it down and put thecap back on.

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Pg 9

PlumbingUnclogging Drains

The following section shows howto unclog sink and toilet drains

using two basic tools: a plungerand a sewer snake.

q Unclogging Toilets

q Unclogging Sinks

q Using A Sewer

Snake


CAUTION: It's always a good idea to use gloves and goggles to avoid contact with bacteria and chemical drain cleaners. Cleaners can beharsh to the skin and damage eyes. Don't use a chemical drain cleaner before trying mechanical methods.

Unclogging A Toilet A clogged toilet can be an intimidating situation and attimes it take a hearty do-it-yourselfer to keep from callingin a plumber. Nonetheless, unclogging a toilet can beeasy, not fun, just easy.

Use a "fluted" or funnel plunger designed to seal inside atoilet bowl. Extend the fluted flap of the plunger, fit ittightly inside bowl drain to form a good seal.

Plunge up and down several time and quickly break the
















seal. Repeat this a few times to work the clog back and forth and eventually free it.

If the clog remains, insert a closet auger into the bowl.Position the bent end of the auger into the bowl's trapand fish the rod through until it hits the clog.

Crank the auger's handle clockwise and push it into theclog a bit more. Once the clog is "hooked" with the spiral tip (or ball) pull the augerback and forth. Repeat these steps until the clog is freed.

Avoid flushing the toilet. It may still be clogged and backup. Instead, fill the bowlwith a bucket. If the water level doesn't go down, the clog is still in the line.

Unclogging Sinks Hair can often clog a bathroom sink and potato peels andother food waste will plug up kitchen sinks. Regardless of

the obstruction, unclogging both sinks is done the sameway.

Place a plunger over the clogged drain. Add enoughwater to cover the plunger lip and form a seal. Plungestraight up and down several times and "pop" the

plunger away. Repeat this method a few times to free the clog.

If the clog remains, position a bucket underneath the sink's trap. Unscrew eachend of the trap and drain the water into the bucket.

Clean out any debris in the trap and if a kitchen sink has adisposer, disconnect and drain its waste line and clean outany debris.

If no significant debris is found in the sink lines, the clogis located in the sink's drain line or main waste line.

A clog in the main line will also plug other drains above it,and that needs to be cleared with a sewer snake.

Using A Sewer Snake Another handy tool is a sewer "snake" or auger. It'sbasically a flexible metal rod with a spiral hook or ballon the end.

There are two basic snakes: 1) a closet auger with

bent tip made to fit in a toilet's built in trap, 2) a drainauger which is a coiled rod or flattened metal strip.



With both augers, when the rod meets an obstruction in the line, tighten thehandle and ram the snake into the clog -- sometimes that's all it takes to clear theline. Otherwise, crank the rod clockwise so the hook (or ball) snags the clog.

Back the snake off slightly, then steadily push inward again while turning thehandle clockwise until the debris is solidly hooked.

Firmly push the snake back and forth until theobstruction is freed. The clog may have moved a bit

further down the line just to get stuck again.

So, repeat the procedure while running water andfeeding out more line -- all the way to the septic tankor city sewer line connection if possible.

Once the clog is gone, reconnect the sink's trap and flush the line with water.Check the connections for leaks. Run more water down the drain and monitor it afew minutes to ensure the clog is gone.

If the blockage still remains (like tree roots), you may need to rent a commercial"power" auger with a rotor or blade bit that chops up whatever is in the line.

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PlumbingGlossary of Terms & Definitions

ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)Rigid black plastic pipe used only for drain lines.

Access PanelAn opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access forservicing the plumbing/electrical system.

Adaptor

A fitting that unites different types of pipe together, e.g. ABS to castiron pipe.

CleanoutA plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet AugerA flexible rod with a curved end used to access the toilet's built-in trapand remove clogs.

Closet BendA curved fitting that connects the closet flange to the toilet drain.

Closet FlangeAn anchoring ring secured to the floor. The base of the toilet is securedto this ring with bolts.

CouplingA fitting that joins two pieces of pipe.

CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride)
















Rigid plastic pipe used in water supply systems, where code permits.

DWVAbbreviation for drain, waste and vent.

ElbowA pipe fitting with two openings that changes the direction of the line.Also called an ell. It comes in a variety of angles, from 22 1/2° to 90°.

Fall/FlowThe proper slope or pitch of a pipe for adequate drainage.

FixtureIn plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or itsdisposal, e.g. sinks, tubs, toilets.

FluxThe paste that is used in soldering metal joints. Flux aids the processby preventing oxidation of the joint.

I.D.Abbreviation for inside diameter. All pipes are sized according to theirinside diameter.

O.D.Abbreviation for outside diameter.

PB (Polybutylene)Flexible plastic tubing used in water supply systems where allowed bycode.

Plumber's PuttyA pliable, popular putty used to seal joints between drain pieces andfixture surfaces.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)A rigid white or cream colored plastic pipe used in non pressuresystems, such as waste and vent systems.

ReducerA fitting that connects pipes of different sizes.

RiserA vertical assembly of fittings and pipes that distributes water upward.

Rough-InThe portion of a plumbing installation that includes running the watersupply lines and drain, waste & vent lines to the proposed location of each fixture.

RunA complete or secondary section(s) of pipe that extend from supply to



fixture or drain to stack.

Sanitary FittingFitting that joins the assorted pipes in a drain, waste and vent system;designed to allow solid material to pass through without clogging.

Soil StackLargest vertical drain line to which all branch waste lines connect;carries waste to the sewer line.

SolderA metal alloy that is melted to join or mend metal surfaces; also, theact of melting solder into the joint.

Stop ValveA valve that controls the flow of water to an individual fixture, allowingwater supply to be stopped to one fixture without affecting the watersupply to other fixtures.

TeeA T-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines.

TrapCurved section of a fixture drain line, designed to hold water thuspreventing sewer gases from entering the house.

UnionThree-piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them tobe disconnected without cutting the pipe. Used primarily with steelpipes, but never in a DWV system.

Vent StackThe upper portion of the soil stack above the topmost fixture throughwhich gases and odors escape.

WYEA Y-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines.

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