8/13/2019 122jan Savoie

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F E B R U A R Y , 2 0 1 4 - S A V O I E

FRENCH QUARTERSW H A T T O E A T & D R I N K I N F R A N C E R I G H T N O W , E V E R Y M O N D A Y N I G H T A T L A F A Y E T T E

  NEW YORK , NY

Périgord Truffle & Raclette

Croque Monsieur

~

Chestnut Velouté, Foie Gras

~

Milk-Fed Porcelet,

jerusalem artichoke gratin

~

Gâteau de Savoie,

poached lady apples,

chocolate chantilly 

$65

SOM M E L I E R P A I R IN GS

2011 Domaine de la Tournelle

'Fleur de Savagnin'

~

2011 Celliers des Cray 

Chignin-Bergeron

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2011 Domaine de la Renardière

 Arbois-Pupillin Trousseau

~Patrick Bottex Bugey-Cerdon

'La Cueille' Mèthode Ancestrale

$45

 Every Monday Night in February

Q : W H A T I S F R E N C HQ U A R T E R S ?

A : F R A N C E  is divided into 101

départements. Each month, we

look at one and tell you the things

we like about it the most i.e.  the

food and the wine. Every Mondaynight at Lafayette, we offer a

menu of our findings.

T H I S M O N T H :   S A V O I EN E X T M O N T H :   G E R S

 We love Savoie for its grassy

raclette cheese, weird vin juane and

the mirepoix of French luxury Alpine

skiing: Chamonix, Courchevel and

 Val d'Isère.

It’s the dead of a cold, snowy winter

in New York City and we’re thinkingabout chalets and fresh powder.

 We’re also enjoying higher than

usual doses of everything you’d find

on a true Savoyard’s dinner table;

grassy cheeses, forest chestnuts,

root vegetables, wild game, moun-

tain berries and porcelet.

 We have always admired how the

French cook for the cold. It’s done

with fortifying braises, layered on

richness and deep, rooty flavors.

For February’s menu we are start-

ing with an American raclette from

Spring Brook Farm, our housemade

S A V O I Ebrioche and a traditional croque

monsieur laced with a little Périgord

truffle. Next up, roasted chestnut

velouté (recipe follows) poured

table-side over a foie gras torchon

and garnished with wintry bits like

grapes and brussels sprout petals. We’ve parceled out a milk-fed pig

from Québec to compose the

entrée. The pork shoulder has been

braised and confited in duck fat,

and the rotisserie porchetta was

fashioned from the belly, rack and

our own pork sausage. This is

accompanied by glazy, pork-roast-

ed apples, whole grain mustard

and a crock of creamy sunchoke

gratin. To finish up, a traditional

Gâteau de Savoie  with poached

lady apples and boozy chantilly.

L E V I N D E S A V O I E

 We think the wines of Savoie (and

the Jura, directly north) are among

the most exciting and unexplored of

France. These alpine regions along

the Swiss border run colder than

most wine producing regions,

nurturing vines and wines that are

comfortable alongside our wintry

menu.

Here are some of our favorite

grapes and wines from the Savoie:

 Savagnin usually finds its way intothe local specialty Vin Jaune, which

is deliberately oxidized (and

requires an appetite for discovery).

This unusual, savory example is

vinified in the ways of traditional

table wine. The dry whites of the

Jura are usually 100% Chardon-

nay, and provide an excellent alter-

native to whatever other Chardon-

nay you’re drinking.

 Vintners of Chignin-Bergeron   grow

only Roussanne  grapes, and

produce regrettably small quantities

of luscious, medium and full-bod-

ied whites.

Trousseau  and Poulsard  yield

light-bodied red wines with delicate

fruit, astonishing complexity and

incredible versatility with food.

These grapes are grown almost

nowhere else, and have the added

benefit of the Jura’s cool climatewhich guards against over-ripe-

ness.

 We love to finish with the sparkling,

sweet rosé of Bugey-Cerdon, a wine

which undergoes only a single

fermentation, rather than the two

rounds of Champagne and other

 Méthode Champenoise.

Toujours soif!

C H E S T N U T V E L O U T ÉI N G R E D I E N T S :  Serves 6

1 lbs. peeled, roasted chestnuts

Herb sachet of fresh parsley, sage,

rosemary, bay leaf, black pepper-

corns, thyme, fennel seeds & clove

4 Tb. butter

2 leeks, whites only, rinsed & sliced

½ celery root, peeled and diced

1 carrot, peeled and diced

2 Tb. Armagnac

6 cups chicken stock

2 cups heavy cream

C O O K I N G M E T H O D :Make a sachet with your favorite herbs and spices. Sweat the leeks, celery

root and carrot in a pot with butter over medium-low heat. Add the chestnuts,

stir well, and deglaze with Armagnac. Add the stock and ½ of the cream.

Simmer over low heat until the vegetables and chestnuts are tender. Remove

the sachet and purée the mixture in a blender, adding the remaining cream

slowly until you achieve the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper

and strain through a mesh sieve for best results.

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