120424 textiles midterm
TRANSCRIPT
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textile - any filament, fibre, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth,and the resulting material itself.
The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning toweave, and it originally referred only to woven fabrics. It has, however,come to include fabrics produced by other methods. Thus, threads, cords,ropes, braids, lace, embroidery, nets, and fabrics made by weaving, knitting,bonding, felting, or tufting are textiles. Some definitions of the term tex-tile would also include those products obtained by the papermaking principlethat have many of the properties associated with conventional fabrics.
source: http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/589392/textile
1.0_DEFINE_[TEXTILES]
Justin Baatjes_&_Tim de BeerAdvanced Design 1Supervisors: Camia Young &Jordan Saunders
1
Images 1-5 furore by lamaconcept.nl
Sequential diagram of framework for textilesresearch
2 3 4 5
1.0 define [textiles]
2.0 global trade
3.0 supply chain
4.0 raw materials
5.0 compositional process
6.0 manufacturing processes
7.0 applications
9.0 innovation
8.0 geotextiles
10.0 glossary
what is it?
what is its economicrole in society?
where does it come from& how is it made?
what & where are itsuses?
research & development?
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3.0_SUPPLY CHAIN
CustomersRetailstores
Distrib.centres
Apparel
plants
Spinning
Weaving
Dying
Printing
Rawmaterials
Textileplants
Accessories
The supply chain in the textile & clothing sector
After clothing is produced & manufactured it reaches the consumerthrough retail stores. If the clothing is used & returned to theretailer, it can re-enter the chain dependent on the condition orproperties of the textile.
E.g. If the item of clothing has a defect the retailer would sendit to the distribution centre.
If the clothing is damaged it would get sent to the textile plantto get broken down & recycled for its fibers where the processthen begins at that point.
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Raw materials and some of theirapplications for textiles
grass ropesisalhemprush
hemp pinajutec ot t on f l ax bamboo
bamboo
Ramie clothing
paperhemp pulpwoodnet tle cot tonrice
coir (coconut fibre) floor tiles twinebrushes doormats matresses
straw
si lk wo rm m ul ber ry s il k wi ld si lk
hats
4.0_RAW_MATERIALS_ANIMAL
SHEEP
GOAT
ALPACA
LLAMA
CAMEL
RABBIT
GRASS
RUSH
HEMP
COIR
STRAW
BAMBOO
COTTON
PINA
LYOCELL
POLYESTER
POLYPROLPYLENE
ARAMID
ACRYLIC
NYLON
SPANDEX
OLENFIN
INEGO
LUREX
CARBON FIBRE
ASBESTOS[FIBRE]
BASALT [FIBRE]
GLASS[FIBRE]
METAL [FIBRE]
A NI MA L PL AN T SY NT HET IC M IN ERA L
raw material textile application
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5.0_COMPOSITIONAL PROCESSES
two yarns interlaced atright angles to produce orfabric or cloth
longitudinal threads arecalled the warp and lateralthreads are called the weft
the method of how the warpand weft are woven togetheraffects the characteristicof the fabric produced
a loom is used to hold thewarp threads in place whilethe weft threads are weavedthrough
there are three differenttypes of weave
- plain weave- satin weave- twill
knitted fabric is createdby consecutive rows ofloops. Each stich is heldon a needle until anotherloop is passed through it
knitting has much moreelasticity than wovenfabrics due to themeandering loops
knitting variations- courses and
wales- weft and warp- knit and pearl
fastening materialtogether by tying orinterweaving, often withrope
other materials usedinclude
- sting- twine- strap- chain
knots weaken the materialthat they are created inat the place where thebend occurs
a knot works by creatingtension on itself in thedirection of the load thatis exerted on the rope
similar to knitting, theprocess involves rows ofloops however the materialis pulled and twisted by ahook
only one stitch is activeactive a time and it ispulled through the nextand can then be repeateduntil a chain is formed
most common materialsinclude yarn or string
unlike knitting each loopis only linked to theloops on either side of itso if one link was tobreak, the structure wouldstay intact and notunravel
weaving knitting knotting crocheting
non-woven cloth that iscreated by matting,condensing and pressingwoollen fibres
different strengths andtoughnesss can be createdfor different functionssuch as clothing orconstruction
differernt processes ofmanufacturing felt createdifferent products
- wet felting- needle felting- carroting
wet felting is where woolfibres are put through aprocess of constantfriction whilst beinglubricated by moisturethus building up a cloth
needle felting is an artscraft where multipleneedles
felting
plain
satin
twill
courses andwales
knit and pearl
weft and warp
loop
elbow
working end
starting end
bight
knot components crochet components
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7.0_APPLICATIONSWhy use architectural textiles?The use of architectural textiles offers a number of advantages over more traditional materials in both practical design and environmental terms.
Architectural textilesoffer an almostunlimited range of formsand shapes that can beachieved through design.A key driver of textilearchitecture is theability to createspectacular, inorganic,curvilinear forms.
In comparison totraditional buildingmaterials, textilesare more energyefficient in terms of:
- The textileproduction process- Fabrication andinstallation ofmembrane systems- The ability to usenatural lightinginstead of artificial
lighting, with the useof translucent fabrics
slope
Clean and Repack
Manufactured from XR5fabric because conditionsrequire an extremelytough, chemical and UVresistant material.
Floating covers are ideal
or other Waste Treatmentponds
Thermally bonded wooland polyesterinsulation for use inthe building industry.
Products designed forceilings, wallsand floors ofresidential andcommercial buildingsto assist in energyefficiency
Webbing is a strongfabric woven as a flatstrip or tube of varyingwidth and fibres oftenused in place of rope.
Originally made ofcotton or flax, mostmodern webbing is madeof synthetic fibers suchas nylon, polypropyleneor polyester
Fabric structures offera number of costefficiencies in termsof:
of materials used- Speed of installation- Re-deployability offabric structures
Architecturaltextiles range fromnon-combustible
combustible
Some textiles offer a
protection options.Fabrics are now widelyused for shadeprotection againstdirect exposure to UV
recognising thebenefits of shadingbuildings to reduce thesolar gain and heatloads on occupiedenvironments.
These are designed forcontaining diesel, oilor waste from vehiclesor motorisedequipment both in useand when being cleanedor serviced.
Construction
Resistant Polyurethane
Most canopies are madefrom acrylic-coated,polyester reinforcedP.V.C.fire-retardant fabricspecially treated toprevent moisturewicking.
Curtainsiders offersuperior durability andcargo protection foreasy,convenient and safehandling of goods. Theyare long-wearingand easy to clean andmaintain.
PVC textiles are nowfully recyclable withmajor textilemanufacturers runningtheir own recycling
Texiloop Recycle Program.At the end of a fabricstructures life,deconstruction is farsimpler than moretraditional structures.The deconstructionprocess is also much
of building components.
With the development of
textiles, the servicelife of fabric membranestructures now range
greater in somecircumstances.
Architectural textileshave a number of keyproperties thatinfluence itsuseability, including:
- Strength to weightratio- Light translucency- Solar performance- Fabric UV resistance- Flame retardancy- Surface finish
mooBdetalfnIriAseiponaCsredisniatruCWaste ContainmentBunds Flexidams Floating Covers Insulation Seatbelt Webbing
Fire Safety RecyclabilitySustainabilityMaterialProperties Solar Protection
architectural
textileproperties
technical
textiles
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digitaldawn
Electroluminescentwindow covering
felt rocks Recycled-wool sculpturalrocks
Vy & Elle Recycled-vinyl-billboard bags &accessories
RPET Bag Recycled PETandvinyl textiles
Silk,electroluminescence,
100%wool felt
Light,windowblind
Sculptures,toys,centrepiece,imagina-tion,instigtor
Recycled billboardvinyl(shell),nylon (trim &lining)
Bags &accesso-ries,optionalwallcover-ingortemporaryshelters
Recycledvinyl, recycledpolyethylene,terephthalate (PET)
Fashionaccesso-ries,architec-turalelements
Ultratouch Natural cotton-fibre insulation
BrushModular decorativetiles utilizingbrush-makingtechnology
Eclipsecollection
Olefin-basedoutdoor upholstery
Inego PLA Textiles
Recycledleather
Upholstery &tile materialmadeofrecycled leather
SonicFabric
Audible upholsterywoven ofrecycled cassette tape
Ecoleathertile
Leather flooringtiles
Recycled cotton/denimfibres(85%post-industrial content)
Natural hairor syntheticbristles,wood or acrylicsubstrate
100%Olefin
Interior&exteriorwall,ceiling,&floorinsulation
Repurposedwastermaterial,nontoxicmanufac-turingprocess,recyclable( u p t o t e ntimes)
100%Polylactic acid(PLA)
Drapery
100%post-industrial& 100%post-consumerrecycled leather
Upholstery&verticalspecifica-tions
49% recycledaudiotape(post-industrialrecycledpolyester),51% polyester
Residentialupholstery,drapery
Leather, rubber,acaciatree bark
Flooring&wallapplica-tionsinallcommercialenviron-ments
Windochine Hand-loomed natural grass-fibertextiles
WovenHorsehair
Textiles from horsehairweavings
Abaca,raffia, jute,buntalpalm,pinapplefiber,rattanskin,bamboosilk
Windowtreatments,tailoredupholstery&bedding,wallcoverings
Horsehair; cotton,silk, or wool
Screens, wall
& windowpanels,room
dividers,
lighting,installa-
tions,acoustic
treatments
Profil Double-faced felt
Bump Compositetextured textile
50% wool,50% polyester
Closed-cellular foam,fabric
Decorativefabric,
upholstery,
clothing
Handbags,cases,
furnishings
circulation
cityscape
Multi-dimensional wool rug&surface
Topographicwool rug & wallcovering
Facett Foam-encapsulated furniture withdimensionalfabric
Softshelf Flexible shelfmade fromindustrial-gradefelt
Clouds Interlockingfabric tile assembly
Dream71 Knittedstainless-steel fabric
Liminal Air Interior cloudscape
Parametre 3DNonwoven polyestertextile
PublicReceptors
Urbanbody architecture
Raum(zeit)Kleider
Spatialtextile system
100%woolfelt
100%woolfelt
Woodstructure,flexible foamABSarmrests,fabric
Floor rug orwall
covering; may
beused as anacoustic
treatment for
interiors
Floor rug or
wallcovering; may
beused as an
acoustictreatment for
interiors
Furniture
Industrial woolfelt,nylonstitching, Velcrohook& loopfasteners,aluminiumeyelets
Flexiblestorage
Fabric,rubber
Residentialinteiors,
wall hanging,
ceilingtreatment,
spacedivider
100%AISI316Lstainlesssteel
Residential,commercial,
and
institutionalinteriors;
exhibitions
Nylonstring,fluorescentlamp,acrylicmirror
Art
installation,ceiling
100%nonwovenpolyester
Partitions,celilings,
windowtreatments,
dividers,
screens,wallhangings/cove
rings,
decorativepanels, light
diffusion
A setof textilestructures made ofdifferenttypes ofwoolfelt [Karakulfelt,SA Felt,BNfelt), zipper,&fasteningdevies[ribbons,elasticstraps]
Urbantextile
installation,
clothing,urban
furniture,
shelter,fabric
structures
Wool, felt,zippers,pushbuttons
Textile
installation,
bodyarchitecture,
transforma-tiveobject,
clothing,
furniture,shelter,body
extension,
secondskin
Cell Pressedwool-felt carpet
Fiberwall Biodegradable-fibre space divider
Furore Flexible synthetic-fur fabric
Les Tuiles Textiles bricks
SoftHouse Digitallyfabricated housingwithenergy-harvesting& lightdistributing curtains
Zip Zippable modularcarpet system
Woolfelt, PVC-coatedwovenpolyester fabricbacking
Sissalfibre,linentextil,soy-proteinresin,aluminiumrivets
70% acrylic,30%cotton(top);100%wool(backing)
Flooring,
wall
cladding,acoustic
noise
reduction,aesthetic
applications
Space
divider,
luminouswall
Bedspreads,plaids,
cushions,acoustic
noise
reduction,apparel,
aesthetic
applications
Compressed fabricfoam
Flexiblewall
system, soundabsorption,
feature wall
3Dknit FR-coated polymer,Svennson fabric with wovenaluminiuminserts,integrated printedphotovoltaiccells & smartswitchingnetwork, Li-ionrechargeable batteries
Climate
control,energy
harvesting &
distribution;space
division&
privacy
Woolfelt, zipfastener
Flooring
Holofiber
Stomatex
Responsive polyester-basedtexti le
Breathable neoprene fabric
LoopBy theYard
Do-it-yourselftextile material
Morphotex ChromogenicFiber
100%polyesterorblendswithothernatural andsynthetictextiles includingcotton, wool, rayon,nylon,acrylic,spandex, etc.
Neoprene,nylon,polyester, othermaterials
Apparel,
hoisery,medical &
performance
wraps,gloves,
equestrian
products,footwear,
sleep pads
Thermalinsulation
with
moistureremoval
capabilities
Tyvek
Architec-
tural,interior
design, &
fashionapplica-
tions;curtains,
clothing,
bags, windowdisplays
Polyester, nylon
Textiles,clothing,upholstery,automotive,sportinggoods,householdappliances,portableelectronics,cosmetics,opticalinstruments
airtecture Air-inflatedfabric structures
slinky stool Adjustable stoolconstructed ofcompressive knitted fabric
Vitroflex[natural rubber& integratedglass fiberfabric], Polyester,Polyamid,Hostaflon,Pnuematicmuscles, Steelrails
Lightweightstructures
Wool, elasticizedpolyester&polypropylene,shimsteel,foam
Seating
carbon fibrefabric
jelara
High-strength cloth wovenfromcarbonfibre.
Bi-elastic fabric knitted withteflon& polyester
65% carbon fire PTFETenara, 35% polyester
100%carbon fibreStrong,
lightweight
structures
Fabricsculptures&
installa-tions, mobile
fabric
lightweightconstruc-
tions,
textiledesign
objects
Flat window
panels,roomdividers,
decorative
screens,theatrical
back drops
krystalweave
Translucet polymerfabric 85% polymer,10%nylon,5%polyester
3Dfabricsolutionsforoutdooruse,fabricsculptures&installa-tions,lightweightfabricconstruc-tions, fabricdesignobjects
Gore TenaraKT
3DMoldable PTFEFabric
TexaaPanels High-performanceacoust ical panel&wallcovering
DelightCloth
Luminous textilemade withopticalcloth
Freek Ruggedcarpet
TeXtreme Spreadtow carbon fabric
Trasta Knitted electromagneticsheild ingfabric
Zetix Blast-mitigation&ballistic-protection textiles
100%polytetrafluroethlene
Soundabsorptionin
walls&ceilings
Polyvinylfabric,urethane foams
Wallhangings,
ceilingtreatments,
signage,
clothing
Plastic optical fiber
Exteriorrooms,
terraces,
blaconies,kitchens,
bathrooms
Polyethylene& nylonyarns
Sports,aerospace,
marine,
automotive,racing,
design
CarbonFiber
EMI
shielding,Faradaycages
100%tincopperalloy
EMIshielding,
Faradaycages
Monofilamentpolyesterelastomers wrappedwithultrahighmolecular-weightpolyethlene (UHMWPE) &woven togetherwithballisticnylon
ultra_performing multi-dimensional intelligentrepurposed
9.0_INNOVATION
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digitaldawn
Electroluminescent window covering
felt rocks Recycled-wool sculptural rocks
Vy & Elle Recycled-vinyl-billboard bags &accessories
RPET Bag Recycled PET and vinyl textiles
Silk, electrolumines-cence, electronics
100% wool felt
Light,windowblind
Sculptures,toys,centrepiece,imagina-tion,instigtor
Recycled billboard vinyl(shell), nylon (trim &lining)
Bags &accesso-ries,optionalwallcover-ing ortemporaryshelters
Recycled vinyl, recycledpolyethylene, terephtha-late (PET)
Fashionaccesso-ries,architec-turalelements
Ultratouch Natural cotton-fibre insulation
BrushModular decorative tiles utilizingbrush-makingtechnology
Eclipsecollection
Olefin-based outdoor upholstery
Inego PLA Textiles
Recycledleather
Upholstery & tile material madeof recycled leather
SonicFabric
Audible upholstery woven ofrecycled cassette tape
Eco leathertile
Leather flooring tiles
Recycled cotton/denimfibres (85%post-industrial content)
Natural hair or syntheticbristles, wood or acrylicsubstrate
100% Olefin
Interior &exteriorwall,ceiling, &floorinsulation
Interior
Repurposedwastermaterial,nontoxicmanufac-turingprocess,recyclable(up to tentimes)
100% Polylactic acid(PLA)
Drapery
100% post-industrial& 100% post-consumerrecycled leather
Upholstery& verticalspecifica-tions
49% recycled audiotape(post-industrialrecycled polyester),51% polyester
Residentialupholstery,drapery
Leather, rubber,acacia tree bark
Flooring &wallapplica-tions inallcommercialenviron-ments
Windochine Hand-loomed natural grass-fibertextiles
WovenHorsehair
Textiles from horsehair weavings
Abaca, raffia, jute,buntal palm,pinapple fiber,rattan skin, bamboosilk
Windowtreatments,tailoredupholstery& bedding,wallcoverings
Horsehair; cotton,silk, or wool
Screens,wall&windowpanels, roomdividers,lighting,installa-tions,acoustictreatments
airtecture Air-inflated fabric structures
slinky stool Adjustable stool constructed ofcompressive knitted fabric
Vitroflex [natural rubber& integrated glass fiberfabric], Polyester,Polyamid, Hostaflon,Pnuematic muscles, Steelrails
Lightweightstructures
Wool, elasticizedpolyester & polypropyl-ene, shim steel, foam
Seating
carbon fibrefabric
jelara
High-strength cloth woven fromcarbon fibre.
Bi-elastic fabric knitted withteflon & polyester
65% carbon fire PTFETenara, 35% polyester
100% carbon fibreStrong,lightweightstructures
Fabricsculptures&installa-tions, mobilefabriclightweightconstruc-tions,textiledesignobjects
Flatwindowpanels,roomdividers,decorativescreens,theatricalbackdrops
krystalweave
T r an s lu c et p o ly m er f a br i c 8 5 % po l ym e r, 1 0 % ny l on ,5% polyester
3Dfabricsolutionsforoutdooruse,fabricsculptures&installa-tions,lightweightfabricconstruc-tions, fabricdesignobjects
Gore TenaraKT
3D Moldable PTFE Fabric
Texaa Panels High-performance acoustical panel &wallcovering
DelightCloth
Luminous textile made with opticalcloth
Freek Rugged carpet
TeXtreme Spread tow carbon fabric
Trasta Knitted electromagnetic sheildingfabric
Zetix Blast-mitigation & ballistic-protection textiles
100% polytetrafluroeth-lene
Soundabsorptioninwalls&ceilings
Polyvinyl fabric,urethane foams
Wallhangings,ceilingtreatments,signage,clothing
Plastic optical fiber
Exteriorrooms,terraces,blaconies,kitchens,bathrooms
Polyethylene & nylonyarns
Sports,aerospace,marine,automotive,racing,design
Carbon Fiber
EMIshielding,Faradaycages
100% tincopper alloy
EMIshielding,Faradaycages
Monofilament polyesterelastomers wrapped withultrahigh molecular-weight polyethlene(UHMWPE) & woventogether with ballisticnylon
ultra_performingrepurposedDefined as surrogates or materials that are used in place of materialsconventionally used in an application.
Repurposed materials provide several benefits, such as replacing preciousraw materials with less-endagered, more plentiful ones; divertingproducts from the waste stream; implimenting less-toxic manufacturing;
and defying convention.
Ultra-performing materials are stronger, lighter, more durable, & moreflexible than their conventional counterparts. They shatter knownboundaries and necessitate new thinking about shaping our physicalenvironment.
9.0_INNOVATION
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digitaldawn
felt rocks
Vy & Elle
RPET Bag
Ultratouch
Brush
Eclipsecollection
Inego
Recycledleather
SonicFabric
Eco leathertile
Leather flooring tiles
Windochine
WovenHorsehair
Recycledleather
SonicFabric
Eco leathertile
eather flooring tiles
Windochine
Veritex High-strain-fabricshape-memory composite
High strain fabric,shape-memory polystyrenematrix
Cork fabric Woven cork-based fabric
Doubleface Knitted stainless-steel&polyester fabric
PlainsCollection
Metal-enhanced solar textile
Tarrot Knitted metal fabric
Cork composite, elastane
Deployabletemporaryhousing,dynamicstructures&habitats,automotivecomponents,adaptivereinforce-ment,trappedtooling
Upholstery,wallcover-ing,acousticwall panels
61% AISI 316L stainlesssteel, 39% polyester
Residential,commercial,institu-tionalinteriors;exhibitions
60% vinyl on polyster,30% polyester, 9%aluminum, 1% nylon
Shades,paneltracksystems,roomdividers,decorativescreens,theatricalbackdrops,fabrics forencapsula-tion in PETGresin
57% enameled copper,22% brass, 21% AISI316Lstainless steel
Interiordesign
Casula Ritual garment with laser-cut &metallic fabric
Wave Textile & aluminum acoustic wallpanels
YaZa
Collection
Hybrid interlace solar textile
Fabric Liturgicalceremonies
Fire-retardent foam,opn-structure textiles,aluminum frame
Wallcladding,acousticnoisereduction,aestheticapplications
60% vinyl on polyester,30% polyester, 9%aluminum, 1% nylon
Rollershades, romanshades, paneltracksystems,roomdividers,decorativescreens,theatricalbackdrops,fabrics forencapsulationin PETG resin
digitaldawn
felt rocks
Vy & Elle
RPET Ba
WovenHorsehair
Fuzzy LightSwitch
Fuzzy capacitive light sensor
Mute room Memory foam-based environment
Fibre optic
rug
Hand-tufted wool rug with fiberoptics
Hammock
Chair
Folding fabric vessel and suspendedknitted seat
Shutters Electronically controlled textile
Polyester, wool, nylonfabric, rayon yarns,conductive yarns
Memory foam, polyesterfoam
Wool yarns; fibre-optic,latex-backed cotton
Recycled paper-pulp cord,polypropylene, aluminiumhoop
Interiorlightingcontrol
Mattresses,chairs,bicycle seats
Residentialandhospitalityflooring
Vesselforstorage,chair
Shape-memory alloy, woolfelt, conductive fibers
Precisecontrol ofventilation,daylightincidence, &informationdisplay
Fabriled
ActiveProtectionSystem
LED signage woven into flexiblefabric
Smart impact-protection textile
Litmuscreen PH-sensitive exterior textilesurface
Cotton, electroniccircuit board
Spacer fabric treatedwith a dilatant siliconecoating
Point-of-purchasedisplays,signage,messageboards
Blastprotection,sounddamping,industrialandgeo-fabrics,protectivegarments,sportsapparel &accessories
Lichen-based chemicallyimbibed, UV-resistanttextile
Awnings,canopies,tents,umbrellas
Give back
curtain
Fabric woven with luminousphosphors
Cotton, polymer withoptical treatments
Energyharvestingcurtains,luminousprivacyenclosures
transformational recombinant
Transformational materials undergo a physical metamorphis based onenvironmental stimuli. This change may occur automatically based oninherent properties of the material, or it may be user driven. Transfor-mational materials provide a variety of benefits, including waster
reduction, enhanced ergonomics, solar control, illumination, as well asunique phenomenologyical effects. Transformational products offermutliple functions where one would be expected, provide benefits that fewmight have imagined, and help us understand the world differetly.
Recombinant materials consist of two or more different materials that actin harmony to create a product that performs greater than the sum of itstwo parts. Such hybrids are created when when inexpensive or recyclableproducts are used as filler, when a combination allows for the acheive-
ment of mutliple functions, when a precious resource may be emulated bycombining less-precious materials, or when different materials act insymbiosis to exhibit high-performance characteristics.
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10.0_GLOSSARY
AbsorbencyA measure of how much amount of water a fabric can absorb.
AcetateAcetate is a synthetic fiber.
AcrylicAcrylic fiber is a synthetic polymer fiber th at contains at least 85%acrylonitrile.
Aida clothAida cloth is a coarse open-weave fabric traditionally used for cross-stitch.
AlnageAlnage is the official supervision of the sha pe and quality of manufacturedwoolen cloth.
AlpacaThe wool of the Peruvian alpaca.
AngoraAngora refers to the hair of the Angora rabbit, or the fabri c made from Angorarabbit fur. (Fabric made from angora goat is moha ir.)
AppliquAppliqu is a sewing technique in which fabri c shapes, lace or trim, are sewnonto a foundation fabric to create designs.
AramidAramid fiber is a fire-resistant and strong synthetic fiber
ArgyleAn argyle pattern is one containing diamon ds in a sort of diagonal checker-board pattern.
BaizeBaize is a coarse woollen or cotton cloth, often colo ured red or green.
Ballistic nylonBallistic nylon is a thick, tough syntheti c fabric used for a variety ofapplications.
Barathea
Barathea is an indistinct twill or broken rib - usual ly a twilled hopsackweave - with a fine textured, slightly pebbled su rface.
BatikBatik is an Indonesian traditional wor d and refers to a generic wax-resistdyeing technique used on fabric.
Bedford-CordCombination of two kinds of Weave, Namely Pla in and Drill.
BiasThe bias direction of a piece of woven fabric, usuall y referred to simply as"the bias", is at 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads.
BindingIn sewing, binding is used as both a noun and a verb to refer to finishing aseam or hem of a garment, usually by rolling or pressing the n stitching on anedging or trim.
BlendA Blend is a fabric or yarn made up of more than one type of fiber.
Bobbin laceBobbin lace is a delicate lace that uses wound spools of thr ead (the bobbins)to weave together the shapes in the lace.
BobbinetBobbinet is a tulle netting with hexagonal shaped holes, traditionally used asa base for embroidery and lingerie.
BombazineBombazine is a fabric originally made of silk or silk an d wool, and now alsomade of cotton and wool or of wool alone. It is twilled or corded and used fo rdress-material.
BraidTo braid is to interweave or twine three or more separat e strands of one ormore materials in a diagonally overlapping pattern.
BroadclothBroadcloth -material of superior quality
BrocadeBrocade is the term for forming patterns in cloth wi th a supplementary weft.
BuckramBuckram is a stiff cloth, made of cotton or linen, which is use d to cover, andprotect a book.
BurlapBurlap is a type of cloth often used for sacks.
CalicoCalico is a type of fabric made from unbleached, and oft en not fullyprocessed, cotton. Also referre d to a type of Printing.
CambricCambric is a lightweight cotton cloth used as fab ric for lace and needlework.
DamaskDamask is a fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synt hetic fibers, with apattern formed by weaving.
Darning mushroomA darning mushroom is a tool which can be used for darning clot hes, particu-larly socks. The sock can be stretched over the top of the (cur ved) mushroom,and gathered-tightly-around the stalk.
DenimDenim denotes a rugged cotton twill textile.
DimityDimity is a lightweight, sheer cotton fabr ic having at least two warp threadsthrown into relief to form fine cords.
Dobby loomDobby loom is a loom in which each harness can be manipulat ed individually.
Double weaveDouble weave is a type of advanced weave. It is done by interla cing two ormore sets of warps with two or more sets of filling yarns.
DowlasDowlas is the name given to a plain cloth, similar to sheeting, but usuallycoarser.
DyesDye is used to color fabric. There are two main types: Natu ral dyes andsynthetic dyes. The process is called dyeing.
EmbroideryEmbroidery is an ancient variety of decorative needlework in which designs andpictures are created by stitching stra nds of some material on to a layer ofanother material.
Epingl fabricA type of velvet fabric woven on a wire loom or pingl loom. The ping lvelvet is specific by the fact that both loop pile and cut pile can beintegrated into the same fabric.
Even-weaveEven-weave or evenweave fabric is used in counted-thread embroidery and ischaracterized by Warp and weft threads of the sa me size.
EyeletGrommets and eyelets are metal, plasti c, or rubber rings that are insertedinto a hole made through another material . They may be used to reinforce thehole, to shield something from the sharp edges of the ho le, or both.
FeltFelt is a non-woven cloth that is produced by mattin g, condensing and pressingfibers. The fibers form the structure of the fabr ic.
FeltingThe process of making felt is called felting.
Fiber
Fiber or fibre is a class of materials that are continuo us filaments or are indiscrete elongated pieces, simi lar to pieces of thread. Fibers are often usedin the manufacture of other materials.
FilamentA filament is a fine, thinly spun thread, fiber, or wire .
FinishingFinishing refers to any process perfor med on yarn or fabric after weaving toimprove the look or performanceof the finished textile.
FishnetFishnet is a material with an open, diamond shap ed knit.
FlannelFlannel is a cloth that is commonly used to make clothin g and bedsheets. It isusually made from either wool, wool and cotto n, or wool and synthetic fabric.
FlaxFlax fiber is soft, lustrous and flexible . It is stronger than cotton fiberbut less elastic. The best grades are used for linen fab rics such as damasks,lace and sheeting. Coarser grades are use d for the manufacturing of twine andrope.
FriezeFrieze is a coarse woollen cloth with a nap on one side, that was rais ed byscrubbing it to raise curls of fibre.
FullingFulling is a step in clothmaking which involv es the cleansing of cloth(particularly wool) to get rid of oils, dirt, an d other impurities.
GabardineGabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabri c often used to make suits,overcoats and trousers.
GaugeA gauge is a set number of rows per inch (in knitting) or the thread-c ountof a woven fabric that helps the knitter determi ne whether they have theright size knitting needles or a weaver if the cloth is tig ht enough.
GanteGante is a cloth made from cotton or tow warp and jute weft. It is largel yused for bags for sugar and similar material, an d has the appearance of afine hessian cloth.
GauzeA very light, sheer, fine woven fabric.
GeotextileA geotextile is a synthetic permeable textile.
GinghamGingham is a fabric made from dyed cotton yarn.
Glass fiber (fibre)Fiberglass is material made from extre mely fine fibers of glass. It iswidely used in the manufacture of insulation and textiles.
HeddleCommon component of a loom used to separate warp thre ads for passage of theweft. Commonly made of cord or wire.
HemTo hem a piece of cloth (in sewing), a garment worker folds up a cut edge,folds it up again, and then sews it down.
HempThe main uses of hemp fibre are rope, sacking, carpet , nets and webbing.Hemp is also being used in increasing quantities in paper manufacturing.
HuckabackHuckaback is a type of coarse absorbent cotton or lin en fabric used formaking towels.
IntarsiaIntarsia is a knitting technique used to creat e patterns with multiplecolours.
InterfacingInterfacing is a common term for a variety of materia ls used on the unseenor "wrong" side of fabrics in sewing.
Jacquard loomThe Jacquard loom was the first machine to use punched ca rds. It usespunched cards to control the pattern being wove n. It is a form of dobbyloom, where individual harnesses can be raised and lowered independently.
JuteJute is a long, soft, shiny plant fibre that can be spun into coarse , strongthreads.
KnitTo make (a fabric or garment) by intertwining yarn or thr ead in a series ofconnected loops either by hand, with knitti ng needles, or on a machine.
Knit fabricsKnit fabrics are fabrics that were produced th rough the process of knitting.
Knitting needle gaugeA knitting needle gauge makes is used to determin e the size of a knittingneedle.
LaceA lace fabric is lightweight openwork fabr ic, patterned, either by machine orby hand, with open holes in the work.
LamLam is a type of brocaded clothing fabric with inwov en metal threads,typically of gold or silver, giving it a metallic she en.
LawnLawn is a fine linen or cotton cloth.
LinenLinen is a material made from the fibers of the flax plant.
LodenLoden is water-resistant material for clothing made from sheep wool.
LoomThe Loom is a machine used for weaving fabric.
LucetLucet is a method of cordmaking or braiding. Luce t cord is square, strong, andslightly springy.
MerinoMerino is the Spanish name for a breed of sheep, and hence appli ed to a woolenfabric.
MeshA mesh is similar to fabric or a web in that it has many connected or weavedpieces.
Metallic fiber (fibre)Metallic fibers are fibers used in textile s which are either composed ofmetal, or fibers of other materials with a metal coat ing.
Microfibre (fiber)Microfibre is a term for fibres with strands thin ner than one denier. Fabricsmade with microfibres are exception ally soft and hold their shape well.
MocadoMockado is a woollen pile fabric made in imitatio n of silk velvet.[4][5][6]
ModalModal is a cellulose fiber made by spinning recon stituted cellulose from beechtrees.
MohairMohair is a silk-like fabric made from the hair of the Angor a goat. It isdurable, light and warm, although some people find it uncomfortably itchy.
Camel's HairCamel's Hair is a natural fiber from the camel. Came l hair can produce avariety of different coarseness of yar n. This fiber is a novelty fiber spun byhand-spinners.
CanvasCanvas is an extremely heavy-duty fabr ic used for making sails, tents,marquees, and other functions where sturdiness is required
Canvas workCanvas work is embroidery on canvas.
CardingCarding is the processing of brushing raw or wash ed fibers to prepare them astextiles.
CarpetA carpet' is any loom-woven, felted textil e or grass floor covering.
CashmereCashmere is wool from the Cashmere goat.
CelluloseCellulose; this fiber processed to mak e cellophane and rayon, and morerecently Modal, a textile derived from beechwood cellulose.
CheeseclothCheesecloth is a loosewoven cotton clo th, such as is used in pressing cheesecurds.
ChiffonChiffon is a sheer fabric made of silk or rayon.
Chino clothChino cloth is a kind of twill fabric, usually made prima rily from cotton.
ChintzChintz is calico cloth printed with flower s and other devices in differentcolors. It was originally of Eastern manufacture.
CoirCoir is a coarse fibre extracted from the fibrous out er shell of a coconut.
Colorfast (Colourfast)A term used to describe whether the colors bleed or not in wash ing.
CordCord is twisted fibre, usually interme diate between rope and string. It isalso used as a shortened form of corduroy.
CorduroyCorduroy is a durable cloth.
CottonCotton is a soft fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotto n plant, ashrub native to the tropical and subtropic al regions of both the Old World andthe New World. The fibre is most often spun into thread and use d to make asoft, breathable textile.
CrashCrash is a rough fabric made from yarns that are usually un dyed. The coarsesttype is called Russian crash. Linen is genera lly used for the warp yarn, whilelinen and jute are used for the filler.
CrepeCrepe is a silk fabric of a gauzy texture, having a peculia r crisp or crimpyappearance.
CrinolineCrinoline was originally a stiff fabri c with a weft of horse-hair and a warpof cotton or linen thread. The fabric first appea red around 1830.
Cross-stitchCross-stitch is a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shapedstitches are used to form a picture.
CrochetThe word crochet describes the process of cre ating fabric from a length ofcord, yarn, or thread with a hooked tool.
Crochet hookA crochet hook is a type of needle, usually with a hook at one end, used todraw thread through knotted loops.
A
E
H
I
J
K
L
M
F
G
B
D
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FORMAL INVESTIGATION
TIM DE BEER
SPINNING
Research
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By spinningaround this vertical axis,a symmertical surfaceis created.This isproduced by an array ofa single component repeated until the form is complete.
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a Bb DdCc Ee Ff
g hi
vertical axis
360symmetry
no edges
circular rotational axisnocomponentrotation
circular rotational axisnocomponentrotation
fro n l vaio n
circular rotational axisnocomponentrotation
vertical axis
two lineofsymmetry
no edges
vertical axis
two lineofsymmetry
twopoints
vertical axis
onelineof symmetry
twopointsheavy base
vertical axis
onelineof symmetry
open top
vertical axis
onelineof symmetry (wholesurfaces)
two lines of symmetry (individual surfaces)threesurfaces
2points/6points
o
vertical axis spinning
circular axis spinningoutcomevariables
perspectiveview
sideelevation
perspectiveview
front elevation
perspectiveview
symmetry
points
rotation2
component
density
rotation 1
spinningcomponent rotation 1 rotation 2 overlapmodeling
process
ensity
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research ->
textiles ->
formal investigation ->
weavingprogram & site ->
concept design ->
technical design ->
presentation ->
justin_baatjesuoa_school_of_architectureadvanced_design_1supervisors: Camia Young &Jordan Saunders
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Generating_Woven_Geometries_Grasshopper_Weaving_Definition
a: input_surface_weftb: input_surface_warpc: input_patternd: inherent_data_sete: F(x)=(x+x)-1conversion_into_valuesf: values
a
b
c
d
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Digital_Weave_Principles
Weft_Binary Warp_Binary Weft_&_Warp_Binary_Overlay
Digital_Weave_Weft_Amplitude_Field_
Digital_Weave_Warp_Amplitude_Field_
Digital_Weave_Weft_&_Warp_Amplitude_Field_
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0
0
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0
0
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0
0
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0
0
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0
0
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 10 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 00
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
0 0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 0
0
1 1 1
0 0 0 01 1 1 1 1 0 0 01 1 1
warp is the setof lengthwiseyarns that areheld in tensionon a frame orloom.weft is drawnthrough the warpto create wovengeometry
digital_weave_principles
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
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Patterns/Binary_Samples_Catalogue
_ 00 1. bm p _ 00 2. bm p _ 00 3.b mp _ 00 4.b mp _0 05 .b mp
_ 00 6. bm p _ 00 7. bm p _ 00 8.b mp _ 00 9.b mp _0 10 .b mp
_ 01 1. bm p _ 01 2. bm p _ 01 3.b mp _ 01 4.b mp _0 01 5. bmp
_ 01 6. bm p _ 01 7. bm p _ 01 8.b mp _ 01 9.b mp _0 20 .b mp
_ 02 1. bm p _ 02 2. bm p _ 02 3.b mp _ 02 4.b mp _0 25 .b mp
_ 02 6. bm p _ 02 7. bm p _ 02 8.b mp _ 02 9.b mp _0 30 .b mp
_ 03 1. bm p _ 03 2. bm p _ 03 3.b mp _ 03 4.b mp _0 35 .b mp
_0 36 .b mp _0 37 .b mp _0 38. bm p _0 39. bm p _ 04 0. bmp
_0 41 .b mp _0 42 .b mp _0 43. bm p _0 44. bm p _ 04 5. bmp
_0 46 .b mp _0 47 .b mp _0 48. bm p _0 49. bm p _ 05 0. bmp
_0 51 .b mp _0 52 .b mp _0 53. bm p _0 54. bm p _ 05 5. bmp
_0 56 .b mp _0 57 .b mp _0 58. bm p _0 59. bm p _ 06 0. bmp
_0 61 .b mp _0 62 .b mp _0 63. bm p _0 64. bm p _ 06 5. bmp
_0 66 .b mp _0 67 .b mp _0 68. bm p _0 69. bm p _ 07 0. bmp
Note: See Appendix 1
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Generating_Woven_Geometries
Selected_patterns
Note: See Appendix_1for larger renders
Generated_Woven_Geometries
_009.bmp
_Left _View
_Right_View
_Top_View
_010.bmp _063.bmp _068.bmp _091.bmp
S f T
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Surface_Types
Operations
corners of sur-face is raisedto a higherposition orlevel while thecentre of thesurface remainsfixed
surface madelonger or widerwithout tearingor breaking
surface endsturned while 45& 90 degreeswhile the restof the surfaceremains station-ary
drawing thecentre of thesurface downwardwhile the edgesremain fixed
lift stretch twist pull
planar pinched bifurcated rippled
Of, relatingto, or in theform of aplane
Grip tightlyand sharplyand pulledupward
Division intotwo branches orparts
A small wave orseries of waves
Operations Planar Surface
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Operations_Planar_Surface
lift stretch twist pull
Operations Rippled Surface
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Operations_Rippled_Surface
lift stretch twist pull
Operations Bifurcated Surface
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Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
Operations Bifurcated Surface
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Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
M
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
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p
z
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
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M
Operations_Bifurcated_Surface
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X
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Loom_Model_001
Warp - steelWeft - elasticbandsLoom - timber
Varied warpspacing
Gradual in-crease in weftspacing
1. 2.
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_009.bmp
1: graphical_pattern2: top_view_render_of_woven_geometry3: left_view_of_woven_geometry4: right_view_of_woven_geometry5: perspective_pf_woven_geometry
3.
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5.
1. 2.
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_063.bmp
1: graphical_pattern2: top_view_render_of_woven_geometry3: left_view_of_woven_geometry4: right_view_of_woven_geometry5: perspective_pf_woven_geometry
3.
4.
5.
1. 2.
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_091.bmp
1: graphical_pattern2: top_view_render_of_woven_geometry3: left_view_of_woven_geometry4: right_view_of_woven_geometry5: perspective_pf_woven_geometry
3.
4.
5.
1. 2.
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_129.bmp
1: graphical_pattern2: top_view_render_of_woven_geometry3: left_view_of_woven_geometry4: right_view_of_woven_geometry5: perspective_pf_woven_geometry
3.
4.
5.
1. 2.
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_145.bmp
1: graphical_pattern2: top_view_render_of_woven_geometry3: left_view_of_woven_geometry4: right_view_of_woven_geometry5: perspective_pf_woven_geometry
3.
4.
5.
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Program
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CBD
airport
Lyttletonport
95km
SOUTHERN ALPS
onstatehighway77
1hour 20minutes travel - 95km
site
plainsmountains
Christchurch
PuddingHill
40,000Hectares
4040,0,,,,0,0,,,, 00 Heeecccceectttaaarreeeess
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