12 to 24 volt pallet jack charging system …€¦ · doc 1.01 inst068 . page i of 16 introduction...

12 TO 24 VOLT PALLET JACK CHARGING SYSTEM

INSTALLATION GUIDE

Doc 1.01 INST068

Page i of 16

INTRODUCTION

General Information

The purpose of the Purkeys TAPS-100 kit is to provide 24 volt power inside the trailer so

that the electric pallet jack's batteries can be recharging in the trailer when it is not being

used. The TAPS-100 kit is an automatic system that works in conjunction with the Carrier

External Vector charging system. The TAPS-100 kit keeps the pallet jack at or near 100%

state of charge and eliminates in most cases the need for daily removal from the trailer.

Daily recharge in either the warehouse or plant's special recharging area is no longer

required.

The TAPS-100 kit is controlled by a microprocessor control module that senses when the

Vector system is operating and charging the lift gate batteries. When the charging voltage

reaches a safe voltage the control module of the TAPS-100 kit turns on a solid state voltage

equalizer. This equalizer converts 12 volt charging (14 Volts during charging) to 24 volts (28

volts during charging) to charge the electric pallet jack's batteries. The charging current is

limited to (10) amps on the 24 volt side during charging so that the lift gate batteries can still

be charged. When the Vector system turns off or the liftgate batteries voltage drops, the

control module in the TAPS-100 kit turns off the equalizer. This system is fully automatic

and requires no interface with the driver other than he must keep the pallet jack plugged in

when it is not in use.

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TOOLS:

/ TOOLS:

1 1/4-inch hole saw (1)

1 1/2-inch hole saw (1)

1 1/2-inch Auger bit (1)

7/ 16 hex x 18 inches long Extension (2)

7/ 16 hex X 12 inches long Extension (2)

90 degree right angle drill (1)

Sawzall (1)

1/2-inch cordless drill (1)

Clip on amp meter (1)

7/ 16-inch wrench (1)

9/ 16-inch wrench (1)

9/ 16-inch socket and ratchet (1)

Rivet gun (1)

Cable lug crimpers (1)

3/ 16-inch drill bit (1)

Disposable rags (1)

Fish tape (1)

Cable cutters (1)

1/4-inch drill bit (1)

Razor knife (1)

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TAPS-101 CElfflll MOUNT UGKIT

Step 1- ***lf you are installing kit part# TAPS-101and TAPS-102 then verify that all parts are accounted for before installation process begins.***

• Qty 1 of the Charger Control Box

• Qty 1 of the Anderson Plug Pan assembly. There will be two type of Pan assemblies. One

for Center mount which the cables are 30ft long and one for rear mount which the cables

are 48ft long.

• Qty 1 of the hardware bag kit

Step 2

• Qty 2 pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe 4 foot long.

• 1/2-inch black split loom

• 1/2-inch red split loom

• Each shipment will also come with an accessory package that will include

spray foam and black undercoating spray for the cut out in the trailer wall.

Once accessory kit will do 3 trailers.

• If Trailer is not already prepped for the Pallet Jack Charging system, then

start at step 3 for Retro installation instruction.

-

TAPS-101CENTER MOUNT TAPS-102 IIEAlt MOUNT

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Step 3 - 111Marking the cut out on the mud flap for mounting the Charger Control box on the Cargo box'••

• Cut a rectangle hole in the mud flap that is to the right of the liftgate battery box. This will

be the location where the charger control box will be mounted.

• The location of the cut out in the mud flap is 7 and 3/4 inches from the right side edge of

the flap over and then 20 inches from the right side edge. The height of the cut out needs

to be 14 inches.

• Using a razor knife, start cutting out the rectangle in the mud flap to allow for the charger

control box to mount to the cargo box.

Step 4 -"'Mounting the Charger Control Box to the Cargo Box"'

• Hold the charger control box up to the cargo box through the rectangle hole in the mud

flap. Rivet the control box to the cargo box using the supplied 1 inch structural rivets.

The mounting holes in the charger control box are already pre drilled.

• Mounting of the Charger Control box is c o m p l e t e

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Step 5 - Determine location for the Anderson Connector Pan assembly that will be installed inside the trailer.

• In order to determine the location of where the Anderson Connector Pan assembly will

mount you must first determine the location where you will be drilling the hole up through

the trailer wall to route the output cables through.

• The pictures shown are the prime locations for center mounted and rear mounted

Pan assemblies.

• Note: The pictures provided are suggested locations. All trailers will vary

so please consult with supervisor before determining an exact location for

drilling the hole up through the trailer wall.

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Step 6 - "'Cutting the hole in trailer wall for the Anderson Connector Pan assembly.""

• Mark the rectangle cut out for the Anderson Connector Pan assembly.

• Note: The location for the cut out is in direct relation to the location of the

hole up through the trailer wall that was determined in step 5. You will notice

the flexible conduit connected to the Pan assembly. The hole that is drilled up

through the trailer wall must line up with the flexible conduit and conduit fitting. • Use a sawzall to cut the hole in the trailer wall. Be sure to place an empty box directly

below the cut out to catch all the foam that will be taken out of the trailer wall.

• Dig out 2 1/2 inches of foam using a putty knife to allow for the Anderson Connector Pan

assembly to sit flush inside the cut out.

Step 7 - '"Drilling the first initial hole in the floor of the trailer using 11/2-inch hole saw for the flexible conduit and output cable routing."'

• Drill a hole through the aluminum in the trailer floor using a 1 1/2-inch hole saw, a 7/17-inch x

12-inch hex extension and a cordless drill.

• Note: The 1 112-inch hole saw will only be needed to get through the aluminum

metal on the underside of the trailer.

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Step 8 -'"Drilling the hole up through the foam inside the trailer wall."'

• Drill up through the foam using a 1 1/2-inch auger bit, 2 of the 18-inch-long 7/16 inch hex

extensions and 1 of the 12-inch-long 7/ 16 inch hex extensions. To avoid a big mess to

clean up at the end then place a box directly below you before you begin to drill out the

foam.

• Ensure that the hole drilled up through the foam in the trailer wall is in the correct location

according to where the flexible tubing and tubing connector will route.

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Step 9 -"' Prepping the cut out for the Anderson Connector Pan assembly.• • •

• Using the aluminum straps provided in this kit, place them around the edges of the cut out

just behind the kemlite trailer wall. This will be used in later steps to rivet the pan

assembly to the trailer wall.

• Mask off around the cut out in the trailer wall to avoid overspray from the undercoating. • Spray the inside of the cut out with undercoating to protect the inside of the trailer wall

from moisture.

Step 10

• Routing the Output cables of the Anderson Connector Pan assembly down the trailer

wall.

• Route the positive and negative 24 volt output cables down the trailer wall and out the

bottom of the trailer.

• Push the flexible 1-inch conduit that is attached to the Pan assembly down through the

trailer wall and out the bottom of the trailer.

• You may then remove all masking from the trailer wall.

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Step 11- "'Prepping the Anderson Connector Pan assembly for insertion into trailer wall.111

• Place a bead of Kwik Seal

silicone that is provided in this kit

around the edges of the

Anderson Connector Pan

assembly. This will help prevent

water from entering the trailer

wall.

Step 12 -'"Insert Anderson Connector Pan assembly and secure to the trailer wall.'11

• Insert the Anderson Connector Pan assembly with the bottom flange of the pan behind the

E track. You will have to remove a couple E track mounting screws to allow for the for the

E track to pull away from the trailer wall.

• Once the Anderson Connector Pan assembly is in place then proceed to drill 1/4 inch

holes in through the pre drilled holes of the pan assembly, into the trailer wall and then into

the aluminum plates that were installed in step 9.

• Drill 2 more 1/4 inch holes through the E track, into the trailer wall and into the aluminum

plates.

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Step 13 -'''Insert Anderson Connector Pan assembly and secure to the trailer wall continued."'

• Using a rivet gun and the supplied 1 inch structural rivets proceed to rivet the Anderson

Connector Pan assembly to the trailer wall.

• Drill a 1/4-inch hole approximately where the flexible conduit runs to allow you to spray in

the spray foam. This will help prevent water intrusion and insulate where all the foam was

cut out.

• Insert the spray foam into the 1/4-inch hole you just drilled.

Step 14

• Wipe off any excess silicone.

• Anderson Connector Pan Assembly is complete.

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Step 15 - Routing the 24 volt output cable for center mounted applications. " (Skip to step 16 for rear mounted application)"

• With the 24 Volt positive and negative cables inside the flexible conduit start routing them

down the cross member closest to where the cables came out of the trailer floor.

• Using the supplied 1 inch PVC, slide it over the cables to give it protection from the

outside elements.

• Use the supplied clamps and hex tek screws and secure the PVC pipe to the cross

member.

Step 16 -'''Routing the 24 volt output cables for rear mounted applications' 11

• Locate where you will run the 24

volt output cables down the trailer

and start drilling a 1 1/4-inch hole in

the cross members.

• Slide the supplied 1 inch PVC down

the trailer through the 1 1/4 inch

holes towards the Charger Control

Box mounted by the liftgate battery

box.

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Step 17 - Making the connections inside the charger control box.

• Pull the positive and negative 24 volt output cables through the dome nuts in the control

box marked Positive 24 volt output and negative 24 volt output.

• Ensure both positive and negative 24 volt output cables will reach the 24 volt output

junction studs and cut off the excess cable.

• Do not throw the excess cable away. It will be used later in the installation

process

Step 18

• Strip the insulation off the positive and negative 24 volt output cables.

• Slide on a 4 gauge 3/8 cable lug supplied in this kit onto both the positive and negative 24

volt output cables.

• Crimp on the cable lugs using a cable lug crimper.

• Solder and heat shrink all connections.

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Step 19 - Building the 12 volt input cables and routing into the liftgate battery box.

• Start by measuring how much 4 gauge red and black cable you will need to route from the

charger control box to the liftgate batteries. Cut the cables to length and proceed to build

the cables.

• 'Note: Before you cut the 4-gauge input cables to length make sure you have

planned out the routing of the cable to ensure you have plenty of cable. '

• Crimp on the supplied 4 gauge 3/8 cable lugs onto one end of both the red and black 4

gauge cables that you just recently cut to length.

• Use a torch and solder the connections. • Slide 1 piece of 3/4-inch red heat shrink over the cable lug on the red cable and 1 piece of

3/4 inch black over the cable lug on the black cable. Apply heat to shrink and seal.

• It is very important to solder and heat shrink all connections to

prevent corrosion to wire and connection.

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Step 20

• Route the red and black 4 gauge cables out of the charger control box. The cable lugs will

not fit through the dome nuts in the control box so you will have to route the bare end of

the cable out of the box.

• Install the black 4-gauge cable to the black junction stud marked 12 volt input negative.

• Install the red 4-gauge cable to the red junction stud marked 12 volt input positive.

• Once both the positive and negative 12 volt input cables are routed out of the charger

control box then insert the split loom on each of the cables.

Step 21

• Prep the liftgate battery box and cross member for routing the 12 volt input cables through.

• Using a 1/4-inch drill bit make a pilot hole into the liftgate battery box followed by using a

1/2-inch hole saw to make a 1/2-inch hole for the dome nuts. Do this for both the positive

and negative 12 volt input cables.

• Using a 1/4-inch drill bit make a pilot hole into the cross member followed by using a 1 1/4-

inch hole saw to insert the 1 1/4-inch plastic grommets.

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Step 22

• Insert the 1 1/4-inch plastic grommets into the 1 1/4inch holes drilled into the cross

member to protect the cable.

• Start routing the positive and negative 12 volt input cables through the cross members and

towards the liftgate battery box.

• Note: Routing of 12 volt input cables may differ from trailer to trailer. • It is very important that the 12 volt input cables do not rub on the cross

member. Over time the cables will eventually rub through and make contact

with the trailer frame. This will cause the system to fail by tripping the circuit

breaker inside the control box. Make sure you use the supplied silicone and

grommets.

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Step 23 -"'Connecting the 12 volt input cables inside the battery box."'

• Install the 1/2-inch dome nuts into the battery box and route the 12 volt input cables

through the dome nuts and into the battery box.

• Connect the 12 volt negative cable to the negative post on the battery furthest away.

• Connect the 12 volt positive input cable to the output side of the circuit b r e a k e r .

• Use extra precaution as this cable is hot.

• Once all connections in the battery box are tightened then put the cover over the battery

box.

• Job Complete

This document was last generated on 2013-09-13 12:47:15 PM.

Troubleshooting Guide With the carrier reefer operating make the

following test:

Measure the voltage at the output side of the circuit breaker in the pump box and to a good ground. (See figure Vl) Should measure more than 13.3 volts or higher. If yes continue to step #2. If no, either the liftgate batteries are discharged of the Vector charger is not operating.

Vl

2. Measure the voltage at the 12 volt (+) insulated red stud (A) and to the black insulated stud (B). (See figure V2) Should measure 13.3 volts or higher. If yes, continue to step 3. If no, the problem is the cable from the pump circuit breaker to the red insulated stud (A). Repair or replace the cable as necessary.

3. The green LED light on the control module should be illuminated. If yes, continue to step 5. If no, continue to step 4.

Troubleshooting Guide

Make sure the black 16-gauge lead from the module to

4. the insulated ground stud (B) is connected and tight. If it's not make sure this ground wire is connected and tight. Then make sure the red 16-gauge wire from the control module to the red insulated stud (A) is connected and tight. If the green LED light on the module still does not illuminate the module is defective and needs to be replaced.

5. Remove the six pin Duetsch connector from the equalizer. Measure the voltage from pin #2 (Orange wire) and to the black insulated ground stud (B). (See figure V3) Should read more that 12 + volts. If yes continue to step 6. If no, the control module is defective and needs to be replaced.

6. The green LED light on the outside of the box should be illumined. If yes, continue to step 8. If no, continue to #7.


Measure the voltage from red insulated stud (C) to the

7. black insulated stud (B). (See figure V4) Should read more than 12 volts +. If yes, the green LED light is defective and needs to be replaced.

8. With an ohmmeter measure from the pin #3 (Black wire) to the black insulated ground stud (B). (See figure Ohm #1) Should read zero. If yes continue to step 9. If no, replace or repair the wire from the pin # 3 to the black insulated ground stud (B).

9. With an ohmmeter measure from the pin #6 (black wire) to the black insulated ground stud (B). (See figure Ohm #2) Should read zero. If yes continue to step 10. If no, replace or repair the wire from the pin # 6 to the black insulated ground stud (B).


With a voltmeter measure the voltage from pin #1(Red 10. wire) to the black insulated ground stud (8). (See figure

VS) Should read more than 13.3 volts. If yes, continue to step 9. If no, repair or replace the red wire from pin #1to the red insulated stud (A).

11. With a voltmeter measure the voltage from pin #5 to the black insulated ground stud (8). (See figure V6) Should read more than 13.3 volts. If yes, continue to step 10. If no, repair or replace the red wire from pin #5 to the red insulated stud (A).

Plug in the six connector into the equalizer. The green LED light on the equalizer should illuminate. If yes, the equalizer is receiving power and is on. If no, the equalizer is defective and should be replaced.

Troubleshooting Guide Checking the output of the equalizer

With a voltmeter measure the voltage at the circuit 13. breaker (E) and to the black insulated ground stud (B).

(See figure V7) Should read more than 24 volts. If yes continue to step 15. If no, continue to the next step.

14. Measure the voltage from pin #4 (Yellow wire) (back

probe) to the black insulated ground stud (B). (See figure V8) Should measure more than 24 + volts. Yes, the issue is the yellow wire from pin #4 to the circuit breaker. Repair or replace the yellow wire as necessary. If no, the equalizer has no output and is defective and needs replaced.

15. With a voltmeter measure the voltage at the circuit breaker (F) and to the black insulated ground stud (B). (See figure V9) Should read more than 24 + volts. If yes continue to step 16. If no make sure the circuit breaker is reset (push in yellow bar) If it is reset, the circuit breaker is defective and needs to be replaced.


With a voltmeter measure the voltage at the red insulated

16. stud (D) and to the black insulated ground stud (B). (See figure VlO) Should read more than 24+ voltages. If yes, more to step 17. If no, the problem is the two red wires from the circuit breaker (F) to the red insulated stud (D). Repair or replace as needed.

Move to inside the trailer, with a voltmeter measure from the negative side of the Anderson connector and to a good ground in the trailer. (See figure Vll) Should read zero. If yes continue to step 18. If no, the ground cable from black insulated ground stud (B) in the box to the negative side of the Anderson connector is the issue and needs to be repaired or replaced.

With a voltmeter measure the voltage from the positive side of the Anderson connector to the ground side of the Anderson connector. (See figure V12) Should read more than 24 volts+. If yes, the system is working and no more testing is needed. If no, go to the next step.


Cut the clear insulation off the in-line fuse. If the fuse is blown replace the fuse. Replace the clear heat shrink. If the fuse is not blown the problem is in the red cable from the red insulated stud (D) to the in-line fuse. Repair or replace as needed.

20.

12 Volt Negative Cable 24 Volt Negative Cable

Common Ground Stud

24 Volt Output Stud

Equalizer

6 Pin Deutsch Plug Ignition Input Stud

12 Volt Positive Cable 24 Volt Positive Cable

Control Module

12 Volt Input Stud

Green Indicator Light

2 Amp Fuse

30 Amp Circuit Breaker

LIMITED COMMERCIAL WARRANTY POLICY Purkeys Fleet Electric, Inc. (hereafter “Purkeys”), warrants each product to be free of defects in material or workmanship under normal use and service. This warranty is for the benefit of Original Equipment Manufacturers, Dealers, Warehouse Distributors, Fleets, or other End Users (hereafter “Customers”) and covers products manufactured by Purkeys and sold new to Customers either directly by Purkeys or by its authorized dealers, distributors, or agents. The length of the Warranty Period is 24 months. The warranty period commences on the in-service or install date and is not transferable. Failure to provide the in-service or install date on the warranty claim form will cause the warranty period to begin on the date the part was manufactured or date of sale recorded on the original sales invoice, whichever is earlier. A completed warranty claim form should accompany all parts submitted to Purkeys for consideration for repair or replacement under warranty. The submitted claim form should contain all of the information required. Lack of a properly or fully completed claim form will result in delay or denial of warranty claim. Claims must be submitted no later than 30 days after part is removed. This warranty does not apply if, in sole judgement of Purkeys, the product has been damaged or subjected to accident, faulty repair, improper adjustment, improper installation or wiring, neglect, misuse, or alteration or if the product failure is caused by defects in peripheral vehicle components or components attached to the Product or failure of a part not manufactured by Purkeys. This warranty shall not apply if any Purkeys product is used for a purpose for which it is not designed or is in any way altered without the specific prior written consent of Purkeys. ANY Product alleged by a Customer to be defective must be inspected by Purkeys as a part of the warranty claims process in order to confirm that the part has failed as a result of a defect in material or workmanship. Transportation for products and parts submitted to Purkeys for warranty consideration must be prepaid by Customer. Repaired or replaced products and or components will be returned to Customer pre-paid by Customer or “freight collect” to the address provided by Customer in the warranty claim form. No charge will be made for labor or material in effecting such repairs. The Warranty provided by Purkeys hereunder is specifically limited to repair or replacement of the Product as Purkeys deems most appropriate in its sole discretion. Purkeys neither assumes nor authorizes any other person to assume on its behalf any other warranty or liabilities in connection with Purkeys products. The Warranty does not apply to fuses or other “consumable” or maintenance items which are or may be a part of any Purkeys product. THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT APPLY TO LOSS OF VEHICLE OR EQUIPMENT, LOSS OF TIME, INCONVENIENCE, OR OTHER INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. PURKEYS SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS AND SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES arising out of or from the use of Purkeys products by the Customer.

THIS LIMITED WARRANTY IS IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, INCLUDING COMMON LAW WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, MERCHANTABILITY, AND ANY OTHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES. ALL OTHER SUCH WARRANTIES ARE SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMED. This Limited Commercial Warranty supersedes all previous Warranty Policies issued by Purkeys and any of its suppliers.

12 to 24 volt pallet jack charging system …€¦ · doc 1.01 inst068 . page i of 16 introduction...

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