WARNING

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12.1 IN GENERAL

12. ROOFING WORK

The following matters must be in order before starting roofing work:

- Materials have been delivered to site on time.- There are enough loose covers to protect roof while under construction.- If building will have electricity and HVAC equipment installed, the contractors in question are able to install any built-in pipes, etc. so that work is not interrupted.- The person performing the work has accessories, construction manual and any necessary working drawings.- Uppermost level and roofing work should be planned so that insulation material can be laid from above before roof boarding is nailed. Done in this way, insulating the eaves and laying of insulation in general will be easier.- If weather conditions are bad or otherwise, e.g. above method cannot be followed due to unavailability of product, then roof boarding, built-up roofing, and roofing material can be applied before insulation material. In this case, it is important to ensure that ventilation gap over insulation layer remains clear, and that insulation is laid with care.- Elements that cut through roof structure (e.g. chimney stack, skylight, ventilation stacks, etc.) should be taken into account as construction proceeds.- Check alignment of log frame.- If structural drawings or directions from factory differ from construction manual, follow structural drawings and blueprints from the architect.- Roofing solutions described in the construction manual offer alternative ways of building a felt roof.- If building will have some other roof type, then manufacturer's instructions and roof drawings should be followed where they differ from felt roof alternative.- See other roof material alternatives in Appendix 3.

- Verandah and terrace decks can be done before roofing begins, so as to facilitate work (Remember to protect deck on verandah and terraces).- Ensure that damp-proof membranes are made waterproof by overlapping edges and sealing them with tape.- If additional 2" x 2 3/4" ceiling battens are added to roof structure, it will be possible to install electrical conduits in this space without piercing the damp-proof membrane (damp-proofing membrane can be laid above conduits)- Gangnailed trusses and frames (with attached dimensioned drawings) are usually supplied seperately.- Joint of eaves board at corner is done so that joint is in line with longer eaves.

- Manufacturer's instructions should be followed when building up roof and laying roofing material.- Ensure that enough ventilation occurs between roof structure and insulation.- Ensure that danp-proof membrane is effectively sealed around elements that penetrate roof, electrical conduit etc. Do not place pierce damp-proof membrane.

It is of vital importance to roof performance that air passes through ventilation gap overinsulation.

the structure is designed so that external air is conducted from eaves to ridge and thenthrough gable pediments and/or through negative pressure fans which can be installed atridge level.

12.2 VENTILATION OF ROOF STRUCTURE

HERE'S HOW

12.2.1 VENTILATION THROUGH VENTILATION CASING AT RIDGE LEVEL

Figure 12.2 a 1

Ventilation casing1 3/4" x 1 5/8"(132)

Cant strip (153)

Roof boarding (201) indirection of pitch

Ventilation space

- Nail roof boarding (140) to roof substructure as far as foot of ventilation casing. Casing dimensions are given in structural drawings.- Attach battens (132) 1 3/4" x 1 5/8" to foot of casing parallel to ridge.- Nail battens (132) 1 3/4" x 1 5/8" to both sides of ridge over rafters.- Nail roof boarding (201) of casing to battens in direction of pitch.- Attach cant strip (153) to lower face of casing parallel to ridge.- Cover gable face of ventilation casing with single perforated grille (761). Attach to rafters that lie beyond line of gable. - Lay roofing felt and sheet metal flashing as shown in instructions supplied with seperate delivery.

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Figure 12.2 b 1Log beam at ridgelevel

Ventilation grille(760)

ventilation grille(760)

Ventilation grille(760)

Figure 12.2 b 2Planed laminatedbeam at ridge level

12.2.2 VENTILATION THROUGH GABLES

- Ventilation slots are provided at both ends of building.- Check structural drawings for location and size of gable ventilation slots.- Louvered wooden ventilation grilles (70) are attached to ventilation slots.- Attach grille to logs, or to logs and laminated rectangular beam, shaping grille to roof line if necessary.- Attach grille so that external face is in same place as log wall, with insect mesh facing inwards.

Figure 12.2 b 3No beam atridge level

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- Before laying rafters (or trusses) spread rolls of damp-proof membrane about 24" wide over internal log walls and log bearer beams.- Attach rafters/roof trusses (101-109) as shown in structural drawings, either by using settlement stirrups or nailing into load-bearing elements at 2' or 3' centers as shown on Rafter Schedules. - Attach spacing boards (135) between rafters.

Attachment ofrafter with nails

12.3 ROOF STRUCTURE CARRIED ON LOG BEAMS

Settlementstirrup (757)

Rafter gusset of board(752) or plywood(753)

Figure 12.3 a 3Figure 12.3 a 2

Figure 12.3 a 4

Nail fixing tolog beamsRoof truss ties (120-124)

Stirrups

In log buildings in which the roof structure is carried on log beams, and gables etc. are builtof logs, loads of varying degrees are extended on the roof structure, depending on theheight of log walls. these loads as well as changes in the roof shape are taken into accountduring construction.

Figure 12.3 a 1

Ventilation slot batten (133)

Eaves fascia board (152)

Settlement stirrups (757) ornailed fixing)

Insulation

Spacing boardbetween raftersand trusses (135)

Nailing

Attachment of rafterwith settlement stirrups

- Join rafters/roof trusses to each other using gusset of board (752) or plywood (753) nailed to both sides.- Attach roof ties (120-124) to bearer beams only as shown in Fig. 12.3 a 4 (do not attach to rafters).

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- Attach spacing battens (if needed) to underside of rafters, ceiling paneling and cornice strip, the latter in a way that allows settlement to take place.- Carefully insulate joint between roof structure and logs.- Use alignment wire when laying rafters.- While laying rafters, attach spacing boards (135) and gable verge board (145).- After laying insulation, attach insulation layer retaining boards (See Sheet 12-5).

- If needed, extra battens (130 or 131) are attached above or below rafters.- Attach damp-proofing membrane, joining it to damp-proof membrane laid earlier. Overlap strips 6" and tape all joints.- Attach ventilation gap battens (133) and eaves fascia board (152) to the extent that eaves project over log walls.- Attach roof boarding (140) to extend horizontal eaves project over log walls as shown in Pages 12-5 and 12-6.- Attach ceiling paneling (201-207).- Lay insulation material.- Attach wind baffle paper between rafters (101 -109) and ventilation gap batten (133), or attach to sides of rafters using paper strip (128).- Nail gable eaves and verge board as shown in structural drawings, and remainder of roof boarding as shown in Pages 12-6.- Finally, lay roofing material according to manufacturer's instructions.

- Seal horizontal eaves and gable eaves carefully.- Ensure that there is a ventilation gap above isulation.- Settlement gaps must be left at joints between log bearer beams and wall paneling and at joints with elements that cut through roof structure (i,e. chimney).- Attach horizontal cornice strip to log wall or ceiling paneling (not to both) and attach gable cornice strip to ceiling paneling, allowing for movement.

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Figure 12.4.1

12.4 ATTACHMENT OF GABLE EAVES (Roof carried on log beams)

Ceilingpanelingbatten (127)

Plastic strip

Groove

Eaves fascia board (145)Insulation

Hardboard strip(not supplied)

(In Houses Heated Year Round)

Windbaffle

Damp-proofmembranes

- Lay insulation from exterior, and protect from weather if work is stopped.

- Use power saw or electric saw to cut 2" - 3" deep groove in center of log end at verge.- Cover groove with plastic sheet about 2'. Press a number of hardboard strips about 2" x 8" into groove at 1 ft 8 in (500 mm) centers.- Nail hardboard strips with a single nail to center of log.- Attach ceiling paneling battens (127) in one piece to inner face of gable, supporting it at the same points as rafters.- Join damp-proof membrane below roof construction to plastic strip by overlapping about 8" and taping with care.- Fill remaining gaps in verge carefully with soft insulation material.- Nail verge board (145) to face of rafters beyond line of gable wall.- Lay insulation and continue roof construction above eaves.

- Do not nail rafters or ceiling paneling batten to gable logs.- Take into account roof movement and log settlement.- Seal and insulate joint between gable logs and roof structure with care.- Attach cornice to ceiling paneling, not to gable logs.

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- Extend damp-proof membrane to inner face of log.- Lay insulation from exterior, and protect from weather if work is stopped.

Figure 12.5.1

12.5 ATTACHMENT OF HORIZONTAL EAVES

Figure 12.5.2

Ventilation grille

Spacing boardbetween rafters (135)

Board to retaininsulatio (136) Insulation fillet

Rafter

Joint allowingmovementbetween ceilingpaneling and log

Movement strip

Insulation fillet

Frieze to beattached tolog

- Attach rafter spacing boards (135) to rafters.- Attach damp-proof membrane below roof structure and ceiling paneling or battens.- Insulate joint between log and roof structure with extra insulation fillet.- Attach ventilation grille to spacing board between rafters e.g. by stapling.- Lay insulation material and wind baffle paper.- Press insulation into close contact with logs, using insulation fillet and insulation retainer board (136). Attach insulation retainer board to rafter.- Add remaining roof structure.

- Take movement of roof structure into account, check structural drawings for correct dimension of movement gap between log and ceiling paneling.- Attach horizontal cornice to log wall or ceiling boards, not to both!

HERE'S HOW

12.7 ROOF TRUSS STRUCTURE(Mineral Wool Insulation)

In houses in which the perimeter wall height is uniform, roof structures can be carriedon gang nailed roof trusses, or "vertical frames". In this case, gables are also framed(so they do not settle). Roof trusses are usually purchased from a seperate supplier.

Gangnailed roof truss

Figure 12.7 a 1

- Stow gangnailed roof trusses on level and rigid enough base, and protect them from rain, snow and ground moisture (use timber supports).- Prepare any bearing surfaces for roof trusses as shown in structural drawing details.- Place roof trusses on load-bearing elements as shown in structural drawings, taking ventilation ducts, etc. into account.- Attach roof trusses to load-bearing elements as shown in structural drawing details.- Brace roof trusses diagonally as shown in structural drawings according to dimensions in roof truss manufacturer's drawings.

HERE'S HOW

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WARNING

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HERE'S HOW

- Use alignment wire when placing rafters.- You can lay insulation materials after constructing roof roof, if internal height of roof trusses will allow this to be done.- If it is intended to heat roof heaters, take heater manufacturer's instructions into account.- Install HVAC equipment in good time.- If height of roof truss load-bearing surfaces needs raising, it will be shown in structural details.

- After attaching roof trusses, begin gable framework and construction of eaves as shown in structural drawings.- Attach any ceiling battens needed (130) and damp-proof membrane to underside of roof trusses as with roof structure carried on log beams.- Lay insulation material.- Attach wind baffle paper and board (if included) above insulation layer.- Nail roof substructure and horizontal eaves fascia board (152) and gable verge boards (150, 151).- Lay roofing material according to manufacturer's instructions.- Attach external siding to gable and ceiling paneling to underside of roof trusses.

- If roof trusses are carelessly stowed, they will warp and bend out of line.- Check overall dimensions, location of supports, necessary load-bearing surfaces and possible buckling restraints to be attached to members.- Check that roof trusses do not require support points other than those shown in dimensioned drawings of roof trusses.- Do not make saw cuts in, or alter, trusses unless indicated in roof truss drawings or structural drawings.- If insulation other than mineral wool is used, follow the manufacturer's instructions.- If structural drawings differ from Construction Manual, follow structural drawings.

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HERE'S HOW

Gangnailedframe

12.8 FRAMED ROOF STRUCTURE (Mineral Wool Insulation)

In houses in which the perimeter wall height is uniform, upper level floor and roofstructures can be carried on gangnail frames, or "vertical frames". In this case, gablepediments are also framed (so they do not settle). Gangnailed are usually purchased from aseperate supplier.

Figure 12.8 a 1

- Stow gangnailed frames on a level rigid enough base, and protect them from rain, snow and ground moisture (use base of rough timbers).- Prepare any bearing surfaces for frames as shown in structural drawing details.- Place gangnailed frames on load-bearing elements as shown in structural drawings, taking into account openings for any ventilation duct, skylight, stairwell openings, etc.- Attach frames to load-bearing elements as shown in structural details.- Brace frames with diagonal supports following dimensions shown in structural details and frame manufacturer's measured drawings.

WARNING

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HERE'S HOW

- Attach upper floor joists, trimmed joists (such as stairwell supports) etc. between frames (also taking into account any skylight locations).- After attaching frames, begin gable framework and construction of eaves as shown instructural drawings.- Attach extra spacing battens as required to topside of framing members and damp-proof membrane as in roof structures carried on log beams.- Lay insulation material as shown in sectional drawings.- Attach wind baffle paper or panel to upper face of insulation.- Nail roof boarding, eaves fascia board (152) and gable verge (150, 151) boards.- Lay roofing material, as shown in roofing manufacturer's instructions.- Attach wind baffle or panel, ventilation slot battens, external siding, and also ventilation louvers to upper part of gables to ventilate sub-floor structuer (See structural details).- Insulate gables and seal damp-proof membrane.- After installing external door and window frames, attach paneling to gable wall and ceiling.

- Use alignment wire when placing frames.- If it is intended to heat roof with roof heaters, take heater manufacturer's instructions into account.- Install HVAC equipment in good time.- If height of roof truss load-bearing surfaces needs to be raised, it will be shown in structural details.- Dimensions of stairwell must be checked from manufacturer's measured drawings, which are supplied with stairs.

- If roof trusses are carelessly stowed, they will warp and bend out of line.- Check overall dimensions, location of supports, necessary load-bearing surfaces and possible buckling restraints.- Check that roof trusses do not require support points other than those shown in dimensioned drawings of roof trusses.- Do not make saw cuts in, or alter, trusses unless indicated in roof truss drawings or structural drawings.- If insulation other than mineral wol is used, follow that manufacturer's instructions.- If structural drawings differ from this Construction Manual, the structural drawings should be followed.

HERE'S HOW

12.9 LOG TRUSS ROOF STRUCTURE (Mineral Wool Insulation)

Figure 12.9 a 1

Nailing fillets Roof joists

In one or two story homes in which the perimeter wall height is uniform, upper level floorand roof structures can be carried on log trusses (280). In this case, gables are also framed(so that they do not settle). Log trusses are delivered unassembled. Assembly of log trussesis on site as shown in assembly instructions supplied with roof structural drawings.

Rafters Trussed logbeams

- Assemble log trusses (280) as shown in instructions supplied with structural drawings.- Erect trusses as shown in structural drawings on load-bearing structures, taking into account the size and location of ventilation ducts, skylights, stairwell openings, etc.- Nail ceiling joists (116) parallel to ridge using nailing fillets (754).- Nail roofing joists (106-109) to ceiling joists, at right angles to ridge.- Build gable framework and verge overhang as shown in structural drawings.

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- Do not confuse the different components of the roof log truss.- If roof trusses are carelessly stowed, they will warp and bend out of line.- Check structural details for possible extra height needed at load-bearing points.- Check that roof trusses do not require support points other than those shown in dimensioned drawings of roof trusses.- If insulation other than mineral wool is used, follow that manufacturer's instructions.- If structural drawings differ from this Construction Manual, the structural drawings should be followed.

12.9 LOG TRUSS ROOF STRUCTURE CONTINUED (Mineral Wool Insulation)

- Attach upper floor joists (501-508 ) between lower chords of log trusses (if applicable) and other upper floor supports e.g. stairwell supports.- Attach damp-proof membrane and additional battens (130) to underside of ceiling joists (if necessary) as shown in section drawings.- Lay insulation.- Attach wind baffle paper or panel to upper face of insulation.- If necessary, nail additional battens (131, 133) to roof truss.- Attach sub-floor structure and eaves fascia (152) and gable verge boards (150-151).- Lay roofing material as shown in roofing manufacturer's instructions.- Attach wind baffle panel or paper, ventilation slot battens, external siding, and also ventilation louvers to upper part of gable pediments to ventilate sub-floor structure (See structural details).- Insulate gables and seal damp-proof membrane.- After installing external door and window frames, attach interior finish to gable walls and ceiling.

- When assembling log trusses, check that all washers are in line and face the same way.- Use alignment wire when placing trusses.- If it is intended to heat the roof with roof heaters, take heater manufacturer's instructions into account.- Install HVAC equipment in good time.- In houses with log truss roof construction, it is necessary to cut notches in uppermost round log of wall to have a minimum bearing surface for roof log truss (See structural drawing).- Dimensions of stairwell to be checked from manufacturer's dimensioned drawings supplied with stairs.

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13. DOORS AND WINDOWS

13.1. Door and Window Installation

HERE'S HOW

Doors and windows are non-settling building elements and must be installed so thatadjacent log walls can settle. The dimensions of doors and windows in drawings areouter frame dimensions. Allow for 5/8" gap on each side between sub-frame and framefor shims and draft sealant. Window frame horizontal height follows from height ofupper member of door frame. Height of door frame's lower member in turn follows fromfinished floor level, unless drawings show otherwise.

frame screws

Door or windowframe

Soft insulation

Sub-frame

Settlement gap

Figure 13.1 a 1

- Check that the sub-frame (T-frame) is properly installed.- Check all openings and item numbers from blueprints.- Remove glass from window fram prior to installation, pull the metal pin off the hinges. (See also window frame assembly instructions prior to removing the hinge)- Attach extension jam to door and window frames prior to positioning door and window in place.- When extension jam frame and window/door frame is screwed together, the width of the frame is approximately 1/4" wider than the log wall surface. Split the difference between both sides of the wall.- Position frame using back-to-back shims, so lower member is horizontal and frame is perpendicular in both directions. Remember to check for accuracy with level.- Check that gap around frame is sufficient for draft sealant and settlement of logs.- Check that diagonal dimensions of frames are equal.- Attach hinge-side of frame with self-tapping frame screws directly next to back-to-back shims. Heads of screws should be flush with frame.- Using screws, secure frame to sub-frame NOT TO LOGS. Always check that screws DO NOT penetrate through sub-frame into logs.- Back-to-back shims must be used when securing frame screws. (They need to be left in place)- Position door and window glass. Check that it fits properly and will function. If not see also Window Assembly Instructions.- Attach plastic blocks to heads of screws.

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WINDOW FRAME ASSEMBLY & SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS

WARNING!Pay close attention when working with Honka windows and always handlewith extreme care. Keep track of your inventory and stay organized, thisshould prevent pieces from getting lost. Also, make sure that all Honkainstructions have been read prior to installation.

- Check the item code using the blueprints and window scale to locate the placement of each window.- The item number is stamped on the outside of each window frame (Look for blue stamp)- In order to make sure that windows are not installed upside down look for groove at base of window. The groove should be on the bottom to accomodate window flashing. Groove is also located on the base of all fixed windows.- Remove window glass from the frame for installation of the extension jam, this also applies to the installation of the window frame to the wall.- Be careful not to loose the metal pins from the hinges when you remove the glass.- Window hinges are adjustable, no special tools are required for the adjustment task.- Honka provides screws for the window installation.- Distribute all screws evenly spaced along the window frame for installation.- Window frames less than 3' 11" high are secured by two screws on each side. Window frames larger than 3' 11" are secured by three screws on each side.- Do not use polyurethane filling when attaching doors and windows to log walls, as it impedes adjustment at a later date of the window unit.- A wrench for tightening the frame screws is supplied with your delivery package.- Honka windows can be assembled together without a frame between them if it is indicated on the blueprints.- When window frames are screwed together, place insulation strip between frames.- Always make sure that a settling margin of at least 3" is always present above window frame.

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Window ordoor frame

Figure 13.2.1

Fixing screw

Groove for flashing

13.2 DOOR AND WINDOW EXTENSION JAM INSTALLATION

Extensionjam

- These pieces are pre-cut at the factory for most log sizes.- To locate the right piece, it is best to create an inventory before beginning.- Attach extension jam to window and door frames prior to positioning door and window in place.- When extension jam frame and window/door frame is screwed together, the width of the frame is approximately 1/4" wider than the log wall surface.- It is better to use screws when connecting extension jams.- Attach reveals to door and window frames before positioning doors and windows in place.- Attach sill flashing to reveals also accordingly to guidelines supplied with delivery before installing window in place.- Position door or window and reveal unit so that it is evenly overlapped by thickness of log wall.

- Position groove for metal flashing on the bottom part of the window.- Cut metal sill for windows and adjust plastic blocks for each end.- The correct length of the metal should be the same length of the groove at base of window.- When the window is positioned the metal flashing is angled dowm.- Where the extension jam and the metal meet, it is recommended that silicon be applied in the joint.- Extension jams are pre-cut for the following log sizes: 7 1/2" and higher- For smaller sizes extension jams must be cut at the building site.

INSTRUCTIONS FORWINDOWS

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DETAILS FOR DOORS

Depending on wall width youmay rotate this piece any wayneeded to in order to fit.

Interior doors for partition walls

Interior & exterior trim can benailed to the door frame only.

Log

Sub-frameDoor

Exterior trim

Door jam

Screw

Extension jam

Interior trim

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DETAILS FOR WINDOWS

Window frame connected to log wall.Do not nail window trims to the log wall.

You can notchthe log if needed.

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Figure 13.3.1

Interior corner decorativepiece (342)

Exteriordecorative pieces

(340, 341)

Architrave(310)

- Saw horizontal architrave boards (311, 313, 321, 323) to correct length on site.- Nail cut-to-size door and window interior and exterior architrave boards to frame or sub-frame (they are to be attached to logs only along bottom.- Attach interior and exterior decorative pieces (340, 342) to architraves as shown in Fig. 13.3.2.- Nail exterior runoff board (330-335) to upper architrave board and decorative pieces.

13.3 DOOR AND WINDOW ARCHITRAVES AND DECORATIVE DETAILS

Runoff board(330-335)

Decorativestrip (240)

Sill flashing(825)

Figure 13.3.2

- If you attach the interior corner piece decorative pieces with copper nails drill the hole in the decorative piece before nailing.- The interior decorative pieces are installed so that the raised edge on the decorative strip is attached to face of the opening.

- Attach architraves and decorative pieces so that log wall can settle.

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTION FOR DOOR JAM

Before assembling door jam, always check the door size and opening from the blueprints. The door jampackage may be used for either left hand opening or right hand opening door. The width for all exteriordoors jams is 5 3/16" and hinge(s) are heavier. The interior door jam width can be 5 3/16" or smaller.

STEP BY STEPINSTRUCTIONS

INSTALLATION OFDOOR JAM

- Assemble the side, bottom and top pieces on smooth, flat surface.- Remember to double check the opening and that the groove is on the correct side.- Knock finger joints together.- You may nail finger joints together, but no glue is required or needed. Make sure that when installation of door jam the finger joints remain tight.

- Check that sub-frame is properly installed.- Check openings from blueprints.- Check for the type of flooring material that will be installed for each room, and that final floor height will permit the installation of the door frame.- The bottom of the door jam can only be 1/4" lower than the final floor height.- Position frame using back-to-back shims, so that lower member is horizontal and frame is perpendicular in both directions. Check for accuracy with level.- Check that diagonal dimension of frame are equal.- Attach hinge side of frame with self-tapping frame screws directly next to back-to-back shims. Head of screws should be flush with door frame.- Door frames are secured with four screws on each side.- Back-to-back shims must be used when securing frame screws. Shims must be left in place.- Check the cross measurement and if you need to move the door frame, do it using frame screws by rotating them in and out.- Position door to the place and check to ensure that it fits correctly and works. (If not, see door hinge adjusting instructions)- Attach plastic plugs to the heads of the screws.

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TROUBLE SHOOTING FOR WINDOWS

- Remove the glass off the frame, taking the metal pins off the hinges.- Spin the lower female hinge counter clockwise in the window frame. This should align the window at the bottom. If you have three vertical hinges then split the difference in the middle.- You may also get more space if you spin the male hinge at the top of the glass frame clockwise.

- Remove the glass off the frame, taking the metal pins off the hinges.- Spin the upper male hinge counter clockwise in the window frame. This should align the window at the top. If you have three vertical hinges then split the difference in the middle.- You may also get more space if you spin the male hinge at the bottom of the glass frame clockwise.

- Usually then the glass frame is too close to the window frame. To get more space you will need to spin the male hinges clockwise.

- Usually the trim is nailed to the log wall (which is a moving element). Make sure that the window frim is nailed to the window frame and NOT THE LOG WALL.- Also make sure that when decorative pieces are nailed to the window frame and NOT THE LOG WALL.

If you cannot adjust the windows using adjustment capacity, then you must go back to thewindow frame installation and check the cross measurement for accuracy.

Complete drying and settling process for building may take approximately 1 to 2 years.During this time, it is not a good idea to make major adjustments for windows (such asplaning). The final adjustment may be made after all moisture to the construction andnatural drying process of logs is gone. However, if you see that the log frame is notsettling properly around the windows, then something is preventing settlement in thewindow openings. It can be a nail from sub-frame to the logs, or the window trims arenailed to the log walls.

BOTTOM OF THEWINDOW IS TOUCHINGFRAME

TOP OF WINDOW ISTOUCHING FRAME

WHEN THE WINDOWOPENS, THE GLASSFRAME HITS THE FRAMEON THE HINGE SIDE OFTHE WINDOW

WINDOW TRIM ISPULLING OUT

GENERAL INFORMATION

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DOOR HINGE ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS

Door hinges are pre-adjusted, but if more adjustment is required you may make the following changes.

ADJUSTING HEIGHTOF THE DOOR

- At the bottom of the hinge, there is a hexegon screw that may be turned in or out.- In the screw package, there is hexegon wrench for this task.- When the door is at the right height, make sure that the load is against each hinge is about the same.

- Loosen hinge screws to the door.- Turn the adjustment hexegon screws counter clockwise till you see that the screws are moving the hinge out.- Make sure that all adjustment screws are at the same level behind the hinge.- When the hinge is in the right spot, tighten the hinge screws back again.- If you need to move the hinge inside further, it is recommended to take hinge off and make the groove for hinge(s) deeper.- Honka provides adjustment hexegon wrench for this task.

These adjustment systems will not work if door frame has not been properly installed.If this is the case, fix the cross measurement for the door frame.

LEVELING THE DOOR

GENERALINFORMATION

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Floor joist(438)

14.3 VERANDAH FLOORS, TERRACES: PILE AND VENTILATED PLINTH FOUNDATIONS

- Nail floor joist trimmer (418) to side of log.- Secure floor joists (438) at 2' centers to trimmer, logs, and bearer beam (where applicable).- Nail verandah boards (470) to each floor joist, leaving about 3/8" between boards.

- Protect the finished floors during the construction phase.

Figure 14.3.1

Verandah board (470)

Floor joist trimmer(418)

- Verandah and terrace floors are usually at lower level than interior floors.- Terrace and balcony floors can be laid immediately after log frame has been erected and used as a level work area.- Use a handy spacer when laying terrace boards (e.g. carpenters pencil)

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Figure 14.4.1

Damp proof strip

- Protect finished floors during construction phase.

- Always place bituminized strip as damp proofing between concrete slab and wood contact points.- Place nailing runners (477-479) at 4-5' centers.- Nail floor joists (438) at 2' centers to nailing runners and to lowest log, using shims to make joists level.- Nail verandah boards (470) to each floor joist, leaving about 3/8" between boards.

14.4 VERANDAH FLOORS, TERRACES: SLAB FOUNDATION

Terrace floorboard (470)

Shim (826)

Nailing runner(477-479)

Floor joist (438)

- Verandah and terrace floors are usually at lower level than interior floors.- Terrace and balcony floors can be laid immediately after log frame has been erected and used as a level work area.- Use a handy spacer when laying terrace boards (e.g. a carpenter's pencil)- Attach 2-3 boards with screws to facilitate cleaning floor.

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HERE'S HOW

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Aluminum-backed paperVentilation gap (134)

15. INTERMEDIATE FLOORS

15.1 Intermediate Floor carried on exposed Logs

Figure 15.1.2 Figure 15.1.3Exposed Log Intermediate Floor over sauna

Exposed logcarrying loftfloor

Timmer tofloorboards(535)

Loftfloorboard(540-549)

Figure 15.1.1

Insulation layer

Ceiling panel (202-227)

- Take into account stairwell, flue and other elements in vertical space.- Electrical cable runs can be hidden in cover strip to underside of logs.

- Nail floorboard trimmer (535) to log wall at level of upper face of exposed carrier logs.- Secret nail tongued and grooved floorboards (540-549) through tongue to logs and to trimmer attached to side wall.- Log floor over sauna section will add insulation, aluminum-backed paper to underside of exposed logs, ventilation gap battens (134), and ceiling paneling (202-227).

- Leave gap between vertical ducts and floorboards, moldings.- Take into account surface finish to ductwork and its effect on settlement.

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WARNINGWARNING

15.2 INTERMEDIATE FLOOR CARRIED ON JOISTS AND FRAME MEMBERS

Figure 15.2.1Intermediatefloor carried onjoists

Intermediate floorjoist (501-508)

Ventilation slot(134)

Ceilingpaneling

(202-207)

Intermediatefloor carried onjoists over saunasection

Figure 15.2.2

Floorboards(Interior finish)(540-549)

Sound insulation

Ceiling finish(paneling)(202-227)

Floor joist trimmer(531-534)

Insulation

Aluminum paper

- Install floor joists or joist sections taking into account location of building elements (ducts, stairs) and dimensions as shown in structural drawings.- Attach ceiling finish (paneling, ceiling board) to underside of intermediate floor.- Attach sound insulation between intermediate floor joists (501-508).- Secret nail tongued and grooved floorboards (540-549) through tongue to each floor joist (501-508).

- Take into account e.g. space needed to apply finishes to face of stairwell.- Mineral wool is often used as sound insulation in this type of intermediate floor.- Install the necessary electrical conduit, water and drainage pipes together with the construction work.- You can use other floor finishes instead of floorboards.- Log floor over sauna section will add insulation, aluminum-backed paper, vetilation gap battens, and ceiling paneling.

- Leave a gap between vertical ducts and floorboards, moldings.- Take into account surface finish to ductwork and its effect on settlement.

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HERE'S HOW

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17. PARTITION WALLS

17.1 Studded Partition Walls: Horizontal Floor and Ceiling JointsFigure 17.1 a 1

Molding strip (862)

settlement gap

Top runner of partition wall (608-609)

Partition wall stud(601-607)

Molding strip tosettlement gap(860)

Sound insulation

Figure 17.1 a 2

Settlement gap

Bolt hole to allowsettlement of top runner

Bolt or lag bolt as needed(not supplied)

DO NOT NAIL THIS TRIM TO THE WALL. ITMUST PERMIT WALL TO MOVE IN.

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- Do not nail framing studs to log wall.- Do not nail internal panel or board finish to log wall.- Molding strip covering settement gap should not be nailed to partition wall.

Figure 17. 2 1

Groove forpartition wall

Partition wallstud (601-607)

Figure 17.2 2 Jointbetween partition walland log wall.

- Take into account any HVAC installations that may be needed.

17.2 PARTITION WALL CONNECTED TO LOG WALL

Framing stud

- Attach bottom runner (608-610) of partition wall to finished floor or concrete floor.- Nail runner (862) for molding strip to ceiling.- Secure vertical studs (601-607) at 2' centers to bottom runner, and at 1' 4" centers in wet areas.- secure top runner of partition wall by nailing, allowing enough settlement gap between this and runner for molding strip for ceiling.- Attach internal finish and any sound insulation that may be necessary.- Attach internal panel or board finish so that it beds firmly into groove for partition joint in log wall.

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Figure 17.3.1 Figure 17.3 2Partition wall dovetailed to log wall

17.3 STUDDED PARTITION WALLS: Partition Wall Dovetailed to Log wall

Jointing strip

framing stud

Dovetailed batten

- Remove jointing strip from joints in log wall at dovetail location.- Install dovetail batten in 3' lengths as log frame construction proceeds or as a single batten when all log courses have been laid.- Attach bottom runner (608-610) of partition wall to finished floor or concrete floor.- Nail runner (862) for molding strip (8600 to ceiling)- Attach framing stud (601-607) with lag bolts at 2' centers to dovetail batten, and inserting joining strip between stud and batten.- Secure vertical studs (601-607) at 2' centers to bottom runner at 1' 4"in centers in wet areas.- Secure top runner (608-609) of partition wall by nailing, allowing enough settlement gap between this and runner for molding strip to ceiling. (See 11.10 "Settlement Gaps")- Attach internal finish and any sound insulation that may be needed.

- Take into account any HVAC installations that may be necessary.

- Allow for settlement gap at top of dovetailed batten.- Do not nail partition framing stud to log wall.- Do not nail internal panel or board finish to log wall.- Molding strip for settlement gap must not be nailed to the partition.- If partition wall is surmounted by a log beam or log wall in the same line as the partition wall, install dovetail batten before installing a log beam or log wall and make allowences for settlement gap.

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Joint sealant strip

Sub-frame (5)

Brick wall

Log wallFigure 18.1 a 3

Log wall/Firewall/Brick partition wall

Threaded wall platemount

Figure 18.1 a 1

Settlement gap and softinsulation

Sub-frame (5)

18.1 Joint beween brick wall and log wall

18. BRICKWORK

Figure 18.1 a 2

Settlement gap

Cover strip(328-329)

Cover strip(328-329)

cover strip (328-329)

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- Erect temporary support to carry overhead log construction.- Lay damp proof course (e.g. bituminized felt) beneath area of brick construction.- Install jointing strip between logs and firewall sub-frame to brick wall.- Install firewall sub-frame between logs and brick wall, nailing it to lowest log only.- Suspend threaded wall plate mount (if needed) e.g. nailing to overhead log before starting brickwork.- Attach jointing strip to firewall sub-frame before starting brickwork.- After completeing brickwork, fill settlement gap between brickwork and overhead log with soft mineral wool insulation.- Adjust threaded wall plate mount (if needed) to correct height after bickwork has set and hardened.- Remove temporary supports.- Attach cover strips and moldings to sub-frame and logs while allowing wall to settle.

- Hire only a professional bricklayer.- Brick wall can be tied to firewall sub-frame using 1-2 fixing nails for every fourth course of bricks.- Brick construction must not be attached rigidly to logs at any point.- Attach cover strips to firewall sub-frame.- Attach settlement gap molding to log, not to brickwork.- Location of threaded wall mount plate nut is mrked as KJ on plan drawings and wall schedules.- Adjust threaded wall mount plate nut e.g. with a wrench according as the log construction settles.

- Allow a sufficient settlement gap between brickwork and log construction above it (See 11.10 "Settlement Gaps").- Fixing nails securing brickwork to sub-frame must not penetrate to logs.- Take account of settlement at all joints and when attaching cover strips.

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Figure 18.2 a 1Fireproof heatinsulation

18.2 JOINT BETWEEN BRICK CHIMNEY AND INTERMEDIATE FLOOR/CEILING AND ROOF

Paster or bagging

Movementjoint abovechimneystack.Safety tolerance ≥ 4"

HERE'S HOW- Lay brickwork to chimney as shown in Building Regulations (RakMK E3).- Finish exposed face of chimney as desired up to level of roofing material (surfaces can be of fair-faced brickwork in living and working areas, etc.) with 1/8" - 1/4" brushed on plaster or 3/8" plaster finish.- Flammable construction must be not nearer than 4" to face of chimney (e.g. joists, roof trusses etc.) as shown in structural drawings.- Attach 4" thick fireproof insulation boards to chimney where it cuts through intermediate floor and roof.- Attach intermediate floor and roof finishes and cover strip.

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Figure 18.2.b.1Top flashing (Attach to stack)

(Flashing not supplied)

See structural drawings forconstruction around chimney

Overlap to flashing > 1'

>2" movement joint inlog gable houses.

Safety tolerances See 18 -2a

- Flash section of chimney stack which rises above roof.- Protect topmost part of chimney stack, e.g. with a reinforced concrete or metal cap which is sloped for runoff.

- Instead of mineral wool insulation, light aggregate, sand or other non-flammable material can be used where stack cuts through intermediate floor or roof, or the parts in question can be a thicker brick construction.- Edges of roof boarding, floorboards, wall finishes, intermediate floor and ceiling andlike flammable materials can abut a chimney stack if they are no thicker than 1' 3/16". Likewise, baseboards and cornices less than 6" high can be attached to a chimney stack.- Use solid or hollow burnt brick, firebrick or solid sandlime brick (bricks and mortar should be suitable for use in flue construction).- Chimney stack can be also built after roofwork is complete (take account of location of stack and safety tolerances)

- Do not attach any building elements to chimney stack (always remember to leave 3/8" settlement gap between stack and other elements.- Allow roof elements 2" movement gap on ridge side of stack.- See minimum heights of chimney stack from fire safety standpoint (Appendix V).

Bottom flashing (Attach to roof structure)

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- Stairs can be detached and strings shortened during annual maintenance.

- Assemble stairs as shown in accompanying instructions.- Attach slotted metal angles allowing settlement (820) to stair sting using ringlock nails or wood screws.- Position stairs in place and attach hexagonal bolts and washers to intermediate floor joists so that settlement gap is on lower side of bolt.- Attach lower end of stairs to floor e.g. with screw fixing.

19.1 Internal stairs Construction

Settlementgap

Figure 19.1.1

Intermediate floor joistHexagonal bolt + washer

Slotted metalangle allowingsettlement (820)

Ringlocknailing

- Take settlement of building into account when attaching stair rails and other stair elemnets.

19. STAIRS AND RAILS

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- Nail cut-to-size cleats (480) to strings (446).- Attach strings at 2' centers to lowest log of log frame at same height.- Nail terrace boards (471) to top and forward face of each cleat so that boards are equidistant from each other.

- Use a handy spacer when laying terrace boards (e.g. carpenter's pencil)- You can cut a notch for top tread inlowest log of log frame where steps join it (terrace boarding will continue as top tread of steps)

19.2 EXTERNAL STAIRS CONSTRUCTION

Stairs cleat(480)

Terraceboard (471)

String(446)

Figure 19.2.1

- If necessary, place concrete yard paving slab or level stone under foot of strings.

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- Attach upper and lower perforated boards (736) with holes in line.- Check lengths of perforated boards, shortening if needed, so that outermost holes in each board are equidistant from sides of log opening and board are the right length.- Check that rungs (732) are about 1" shorter than available height to allow for settlement.- Place perforated boards vertically in line.- Push top of rung into upper hole and put lower end in hole below.- Position handrail in place and attach upper and lower perforated boards to logs.

- Perforated boards are attached using screws or sprigs.

19.3 ATTACHMENT OF BALUSTRADE: HALF FILLET

Rung (132)

Figure 19.3.1

- Check finally that settlement gap over tops of rungs is sufficient.

Perforated boards(736)

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Figure 19.4.2Full filletbalustrade withdetached upperlog

19.4 ATTACHMENT OF BALUSTRADE: FULL FILLET

Upper rail(731)

Rung (733)

- Attach balustrades to log opening so that there is a settlement gap over the upper rail. Cover strip is nailed to log only.

Lower rail(731)

Figure 19.4.1Full fillet balustradein log wall opening

FULL FILLET BALUSTRADE WITH DETACHED UPPER LOG:- Nail rungs to upper and lower rails (731) so that rungs are max. 4" apart.- Attach upper log to balustrade from below using screws or nails.- Position balustrade in place and attach with screws to floor or to floor joist.

FULL FILLET BALUSTRADE IN LOG WALL OPENING:- Nail rungs to upper and lower rails (731) so that rungs are max. 4" apart. Check that 3/4" settlement gap is left between upper rail and log, shortening rungs if necessary.- Attach lower rail with screws to log.- Attach cover strips to both sides of log, not to upper rail.

- Check that rungs outermost rungs are equidistant from sides of log opening.

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Support rail (862)

Settlement gap

- You can also attach light railing to floor directly, each rung being attached with screws and a molding strip on both sides. Spacing pieces are placed between rungs.

Figure 19.5.1

Screw fixing

Handrail(735)

Rung(734)

Floorboard(540-549)

19.5 ATTACHMENT OF LIGHT RAILING

Figure 19.5.3Figure 19.5.2

Figure 19.5 .4

ATTACHMENT OF LIGHT RAILING TO SIDES OF OPENING:- Attach rungs (734) to side of floor joist/log beam with screws (2 screws/rung) with max. 2" between rungs.- Attach handrail (735) over rungs using screws or sprigs.

ATTACHMENT OF LIGHT RAILING TO SLOPING CEILING Fig. 19.5.4:- Nail support rail (862) to ceiling along line of railing.- Attach upper rail to upper ends of rungs using srews or sprigs. with max. 2" between rungs.- Attach rungs (734) to side of floor joist/log beam with screws (2 screws/rung)- Nail settlement gap cover strip (860) to both sides of support rail.

Settlement gapcover strip(860)

- Take into account settlement gap over railing when attaching it to ceiling.

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If kitchen units include a full-height cupboard next to anupper cupboard or if part ofthe wall is composed ofrigid construction such asbrick or studded partition, acontinuous sheeted wall canbe built behind units.

20. CABINETRY

Slotted angle(820)

Verticalstudding(601-612)

20.1 Fixing to Sheeted Wall

Horizontalstudding (601-612)

Figure 20.1.1

Figure 20.1.2

- Nail lower end of vertical studding (601-602) at 2' centers (1' 4" in wet areas) to log wall.- Secure vertical studding at center and top with slotted angle that allows settlement (Figs. 20.1.1.and 20.1.2).- Ensure sufficient settlement gap between overhead construction and tops of vertical studding 3-4".- Nail horizontal studding (601-612) to vertical studding taking into account fixing points for cabinetry.- Attach surface finish (board, paneling) to studding.- Attach units to vertical and horizontal studding members.

- Studding can be fixed permanently to brickwork.- Upper and lower runners are nailed to studding in sheeted walls.- Gaps in studding to external wall can also be insulated, provided a moisture barrier is also installed.

- Leave settlement gap above studding, surface finish and cabinets.- Do not attach units directly to log walls.- Check points where units will be attached before installing surface finish.- Nail horizontal studding only to vertical studding when backed by log wall.

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If it is not wished to stud and sheet log wall to which units will be attached, they can beattached directly to the log wall in a way that allows logs to settle.

Horizntalboards(601-612)

Buildingboard andtiledsurface

20.2 FIXING TO LOG WALL

Figure 20.2.1

- Take into account that upper units will settle as log wall settles (space between upper and lower units will lesson)- Backing board can be tiled, for instance.

- Attach lower units to each other e.g. using screws.- Attach building board to back of lower units (kitchen units only).- Set lower unit against log wall and attach through foot of unit to lowest log.- Nail horizontal board (601-602) to log wall where top and bottom edge of upper units will lie.- Attach upper units with screws to upper horizontal board only so that upper units will settle as log wall settles.

- Take into account settlement of upper units as log wall settles.- Install any lighting units beneath upper units with this in mind.