10214.07D - July 2014 Emerging Issues

INTRODUCTION

Hello, I’m Mike Sculthorpe. I’m your host for the July 2014 Emerging Issues Seminar.

Every month, the Emerging Issues team works with Brand Quality and Engineering to identify the latest

service topics.

Our goal is to give you and your team a “heads up” as issues are identified that you’ll be dealing with at

your facility.

To get credit for this course, make sure you take the test. I’ll give you instructions for taking the test at

the end of the seminar.

Keep in mind that we’re always interested in your feedback and ideas for topics you’d like us to cover in

the show.

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If you are interested in participating, send us an email.

You can use the EI@Raytheon.com address to let us know if you have questions about anything you’ve

seen on the seminar, and we’ll do our best to let you know what’s coming up.

We’ve also been getting some great topic suggestions and tips via email, which we really appreciate.

MIKE

Remember, the SC symbol in the lower right corner of the screen identifies topics that should interest

Service Consultants.

Please be sure to let your Service Consultants know when you find content for them in the program.

First up … Top Stories.

TOP STORIES

MIKE

In the mail bag this month we have one question. It’s from Todd Norman a Quick Service Technician at

Red River Chevrolet in Bossier City, LA. Todd wrote:

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My question concerns the carpeting on the 2014 Silverado. When I am vacuuming the interior of the

vehicle during service, the carpet on the driver’s side will pull out from underneath the door molding

when I lift the floor mat. Is this normal operation or is the carpeting not properly attached? I can use a

trim stick to re-insert the carpet underneath the molding.

MIKE

Well Todd, I checked with Peter Joslyn, the Brand Quality Manager for the light duty pick up. Here is

what he told me:

SLIDE

Yes, we have heard of this. The plant has been working to get the carpet centered better in the truck. If

this does not happen correctly, then the carpet could pop out from under the molding. This is not a

problem with the part or attachment, just positioning in the vehicle.

MIKE

Thanks for the question Todd.

Our next Top Story concerns door lock cylinders on the new pick-ups and utilities. These same design

lock cylinders are used on the ATS, CTS, XTS and Impala but the lock cylinder is covered on these

vehicles. We have a couple of very short videos to show you what is different about these cylinders.

SLIDE

If an incorrect key is inserted into the lock and some pressure is applied to rotate that key, the lock will

free wheel approximately 180 degrees. This is an anti-theft design that helps prevent the lock cylinder

from being forced. Although the cylinder rotates, the door will not unlock.

Once the key is removed and the correct key is inserted, the lock will work properly. Just insert the

correct key fully into the lock and rotate it to the vertical position. Then remove the key and insert it

again. It should now unlock the door.

MIKE

If you didn’t know about this design, it would make you think that the cylinder was damaged, when in

fact it is simply the wrong key or the key is not fully inserted into the lock.

SLIDE

Here is what we found concerning this in the Owner Manual:

The door lock cylinder turns freely when either the wrong key is used, or the correct key is not fully

inserted. The free turning door lock feature prevents the lock from being forced open. To reset the lock,

turn it to the vertical position with the correct key fully inserted. Remove the key and insert it again. If

this does not reset the lock, turn the key halfway around in the cylinder and repeat the reset procedure.

MIKE

Next in Top Stories, we wanted to be sure you are aware of a newer feature on the Center of Learning

web site. It’s called Tech Tube. There are a series of short informative videos in this area that allow you

to find, view and get back to the job quickly with the information you needed.

Here is the path to follow after logging into the web site.

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Click on the Tech Tube link on the main page.

Pick one of the 16 categories, like Tools and Equipment and then select an individual video like the Fluke

87 Min Max feature.

MIKE

This area will be growing rapidly. We plan on adding most of the videos from EI going forward along with

many other videos in the near future. If you have topic ideas for Tech Tube, feel free to send them to us

using the EI@raytheon.com address. We will do our best to add them to the site.

There are about 70 videos available now and that number should top 100 in the very near future. These

can also be viewed using your mobile devices using either the Android or Apple platforms.

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Another new feature on the Center of Learning web site is Diagnostic Exercises. This is a new form of

web based training and replaces the simulations. We feel they offer a more intuitive interface and better

functionality. The diagnostic exercises or DE enables you to safely practice multiple procedures in a

virtual environment.

The DEs made available in June include:

13044.18W Tire Pressure Monitoring System

13044.20W3 GM Chassis Control System

15045.18W5 Braking System

And 22048.43W Active Safety Systems and SRS

The DEs can be viewed on Tablets as well as laptop and desktop computers.

MIKE

Our last Top Story is one we have covered in the past, but calls are still coming in. PI1187 is a reminder

concerning the inside rear view mirror bracket on any of these vehicles:

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2014 or 2015 LaCrosse, Regal, ATS, CTS (VIN A), XTS, Impala (VIN 1)

2013 through 2015 SRX

2014 or 2015Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Sierra, Yukon or Yukon XL.

Here is a picture of the bracket taken through the glass. If the mirror mounting bracket is loose or has

fallen off, do NOT attempt to reinstall it. There is no acceptable adhesive available to perform this repair

and if attempted the bracket will fall off again.

MIKE

The windshield must be replaced. All new windshields have the bracket already installed.

That’s it for our Top Stories. Our Featured Topic is next.

Featured Topic

MIKE

This month’s featured topic is the Electric steering assist campaign that will be released around the

same time as this seminar.

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The campaign covers the following vehicles: Chevrolet Malibu & Malibu Max: 2004 - 2005, and some

2006 and 2008 & 2009 vehicles

Saturn Aura: Some 2008 - 2009 vehicles

Pontiac G6: All 2005, some 2006 and 2008 - 2009 vehicles

The subject vehicles equipped with electric power steering or EPS may experience a sudden loss of

power steering assist that could occur at any time while driving. If the power steering assist is lost, a

message is displayed on the Driver Information Center and a chime sounds to inform the driver.

MIKE

Because this repair will require disassembly of the steering column and replacement of the torque

sensor, which has not been an available repair until now, we put together a video to show the steps.

Let’s take a look at how to disassemble the column and remove the torque sensor.

VIDEO (Part 1)

All of the Cautions in the Bulletin must be closely followed to avoid damage to the steering

column and its components. Once the steering column, intermediate shaft, and the steering gear

have been disconnected, do not rotate the steering wheel or the vehicle’s front wheels. If they

are moved, the SIR coil could become un-centered.

Disable the SIR System.

Remove the driver knee bolster and its bracket.

Install enough masking tape around the right steering wheel spoke and wiper stalk, and around

the left steering wheel spoke and turn signal stalk to prevent the steering wheel from turning.

This will protect the SIR coil and help with the reassembly of the upper and lower jackets.

Carefully separate the Steering Column Upper Trim Cover from the lower trim cover and remove

it. This procedure will vary between vehicle lines. Use care to avoid breaking any retainers.

If necessary, lower the steering wheel for access to the electrical connectors on top of the

column. Disconnect the electrical connectors as needed to remove the Steering Column Upper

Jacket from the vehicle.

Remove the two Upper Steering Column Mounting Bolts.

To help with aligning the steering column’s splined shafts during reassembly, mark the

relationship between the upper and lower Steering Column Jacket Assemblies… and between the

lower jacket and the Steering Column Housing.

With the steering column still fully assembled, pull the Steering Column Upper Jacket from the

Steering Column Lower Jacket.

Disconnect the Intermediate Steering Shaft.

Remove the electrical connectors from the Power Steering Control Module.

Remove the Lower Steering Column Pivot Bolt.

The Steering Column Lower Jacket And Motor Assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.

Using the housing, carefully secure the Steering Column Lower Jacket And Motor Assembly in a

vise. DO NOT clamp the steering shaft in the vise. Clamp the vise on the housing with only

enough pressure to keep it from moving. Too much clamping force will damage the aluminum

housing.

The assembly should be secured with the gap in the snap ring facing the technician.

Use the Snap Ring Pliers and adapter, specified in the bulletin, to carefully remove the snap ring

from the Steering Column Housing.

Remove the lower jacket from the Steering Column Lower Shaft.

If it has one, remove the washer from the Steering Column Shaft.

After releasing the tab, disconnect the Steering Column Torque Sensor Harness Connector from

the Steering Column Module.

Disconnect the Steering Column Torque Sensor Harness Clip from the Steering Column Module

Bracket and remove the wiring harness seal, or grommet.

Lift up on the tab of the Steering Column Torque Sensor with a flat-bladed screwdriver while

using a pick on the opposite side to carefully remove the sensor. Use care to avoid damaging the

housing.

Do not wipe away any grease from the housing. Adding additional grease is not required.

Carefully inspect the torque sensor cavity in the steering column housing for debris. If any is

found, carefully remove it with a pick tool or needle nose pliers.

MIKE

After the trim pieces are removed, disassembly of the column is quick and easy. There will be slight

differences in the disassembly depending on what vehicle you are working on.

SLIDE

We used a 2009 G6 and as you saw, the upper column and IP bezel are attached. I removed them as one

piece but you could tape the column trim to the top of the IP without removing the bezel to keep it out

of your way.

On the Malibu, the upper trim uses a pivot on the side closest to the IP. Be sure to release the trim near

the steering wheel first then rotate it up and out to avoid damaging the trim. There are also some trim

differences that affect how the knee bolster is removed

MIKE

Now that the column is disassembled, let’s take a look at how the new sensor is installed. Alignment of

the sensor is critical as you are about to see!

VIDEO (Part 2)

Reassembly begins with the installation of the supplied Alignment Tool over the Steering Column

Shaft and into the Steering Column Housing with the flat side facing up.

The tool’s spline, or “key”, MUST be centered in the slot, or keyway, in the Steering Column

Shaft. You can adjust the shaft by hand if necessary, until the tool drops into the housing. When

the tool’s tab is aligned with the opening in the Steering Column Housing, the tool will be fully

seated in the housing. The tool should move freely and not bind against the shaft or housing. The

shaft and housing are now properly aligned for the installation of the new Torque Sensor.

With the alignment complete, the tool can be removed.

Record the Torque Sensor serial number in the repair order.

Do not remove the alignment pin prior to sensor installation and alignment.

Danger! The spline of the new Steering Column Torque Sensor must not be damaged during the

installation, or injury may result. If a sensor is damaged, discard it and replace it with a new

sensor.

If a damaged sensor spline, or key, allows the sensor and steering column shaft to come out of

alignment with each other, the Power Steering System may move the steering wheel to an end

stop without any driver input when the vehicle is started or when it is manually turned to an end

stop. Some steering wheel oscillation is also possible with a damaged sensor.

The spline of the Steering Column Torque Sensor is identified with a paint dot and an arrow. The

sensor’s label and steel alignment pin must face up when the sensor is installed.

During installation, make sure the sensor spline is properly aligned to the Steering Column Shaft

Keyway. The sensor’s tab must also fit in the opening in the housing before the sensor is seated.

To seat the new sensor on the Steering Column Shaft and into the Steering Column Housing, put

your thumbs on each side and gently push down. The sensor should be recessed into the housing

about 3 millimeters, or 1/8th inch at this point.

The alignment tool is used to ensure that the new sensor is properly aligned and seated. With the

tool aligned as before, press down firmly on both sides.

Place a ruler or straightedge across the housing over the alignment tool. The ruler should be

stable, showing that the tool is flush with, or slightly below the housing.

Look through the hole in the alignment tool to confirm that the Sensor Alignment Pin is centered

in the slot in the sensor. If not, rotate the Steering Column Shaft slightly to adjust the pin location

to the center.

While holding the alignment tool down, remove the sensor alignment pin.

The alignment tool can now be removed.

Make sure that the Steering Column Torque Sensor Spline is present, not damaged, and is

centered in the keyway. If it is missing or damaged, the sensor MUST be replaced.

Install the new wiring harness seal, or grommet, in the housing.

Clip the sensor wiring harness to the Steering Column Module Bracket.

Connect the Steering Column Torque Sensor Harness Connector to the Steering Column Module.

Be sure the connector’s locking tab is seated.

Carefully clean the Steering Column Shaft. It should be dry and free of oil or other contaminants.

Install the supplied felt washer and push it to the bottom of the Steering Column Shaft.

The Steering Column Lower Jacket can now be installed on the Steering Column Shaft. Align the

marks that were made earlier.

The snap ring must be installed with the beveled edge facing up. If the snap ring is installed with

the beveled edge facing down, it may not seat and could fly out at any time.

With the beveled edge facing up, use the J-45126 Snap Ring Pliers and the GE-45126-5 adapter

to carefully install the snap ring to the Steering Column Housing.

When installed, the snap ring’s gap must be 20 millimeters or wider. The gap must be positioned

approximately 90 degrees from the sensor grommet.

Extend and collapse the intermediate shaft several times to evenly distribute the grease.

The Steering Column Lower Jacket And Motor Assembly can now be positioned in the vehicle.

Heed the Warning and Notes in the bulletin before loosely installing the Lower Steering Column

Pivot Bolt.

Reconnect the electrical connectors to the Power Steering Control Module.

Reconnect the Intermediate Steering Shaft to the Steering Column with the supplied new bolt

and torque to specifications..

Reference the lines made earlier to align the Upper and Lower Steering Column Jackets.

With the spline shaft of the Steering Column Lower Jacket aligned with the spline of the Steering

Column Upper Jacket, install the upper jacket.

Raise the steering column.

Align the Steering Column Energy Absorbing Straps with the bolt holes in the steering column.

Loosely install the Upper Steering Column Bolts.

Warning: In order to ensure the intended function of the steering column in a vehicle during a

crash and in order to avoid personal injury to the driver,

tighten the steering column lower fasteners before you tighten the steering column upper

fasteners. Failure to do this can damage the steering column.

Tighten the steering column fasteners to the specified torque. Over tightening the upper steering

column fasteners could affect the way the steering column collapses.

Tighten the Steering Column Bolts, in sequence to the specifications in the bulletin.

Reconnect the electrical connectors.

Install the Steering Column Upper Trim Cover.

Remove the masking tape from around the steering wheel and steering column switches.

Reinstall the knee bolster bracket and the remaining interior trim.

Re-enable the SIR System.

With the key on, engine off, perform the Torque Sensor Calibration, under Module Setup.

Keep hands away from the steering wheel to avoid injury when starting the vehicle for the first

time after the repair. If the Steering Column Torque Sensor was incorrectly installed, or its spline

was damaged, the steering wheel may move to an end stop without any input.

Rotate the steering wheel hard until an end stop is reached and let go. Rotate the wheel hard in

the opposite direction until the other end stop is reached, and let go. If the steering wheel

remains stationary each time it is released, the repair is complete. If the wheel rotates to an end

stop without input, the Torque Sensor is damaged and must be replaced.

MIKE

Having the lower column mounted in the vice helped make sensor replacement and alignment straight

forward. Don’t forget to look for the tab before installing the lower jacket and snap ring. Also, the

alignment marks on the upper and lower column sections help in reassembling the two sections.

Once I completed reassembly of the column, the vehicle had to be moved. The steering on this vehicle

was difficult to turn left and very easy to turn right which made me think I had got the sensor in wrong

but as soon as I performed the torque sensor learn procedure steering started functioning normally in

both directions. It just shows how important it is to complete these learn procedures.

There are approximately 700,000 vehicles that are involved in this campaign so it is very likely that you

will be performing this repair multiple times. I hope this video provides you with a better idea of how to

perform the steps of the bulletin.

Well, that’s all we have for the Featured Topic. What’s Hot for Cars is next.

What’s Hot for Cars

MIKE

To start cars this month, I found a short article from GM concerning the Chevrolet Volt.

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Since its launch in 2010, GM estimates Volt owners have driven more than a half billion all-electric miles.

A GM study of more than 300 Volt owners in California over 30 months showed that many are exceeding

the EPA rated label of 35 miles of EV range on a full charge and about 15% reported surpassing 40 miles

of EV range. Very interesting numbers!

MIKE

Next is PIC6009 which is a heads up concerning the 2014 Corvette.

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Multiple dealers have asked if a rear sway bar can be added to a vehicle that was not originally equipped

with one. The rear sway bar is part of the Z51 Performance Package. GM does NOT recommend or

support this modification.

Do NOT offer to install a rear sway bar on a vehicle not originally equipped with the Z51 Performance

Package. The FE1, 4-Wheel Independent Suspension system was designed and tested without a rear

sway bar. Installing a sway bar on a FE1 vehicle may cause concerns with vehicle control, ride and

handling.

Next up on the Corvette, if a customer has a concern with the defrost grill being wavy, engineering is

aware and is working on a fix. Please do not attempt any repairs at this time. When the repair is

finalized, a PI will be released.

PI1258 covers the 2014 Corvette with a customer comment of a squeal or squeak noise from the front

brakes. This condition normally only occurs on initial brake applications after the vehicle has been sitting

overnight or longer. The noise typically occurs during light braking, at speeds less than 10 mph. The

noise will go away after 1-6 brake applies, or after braking at higher speeds. It typically occurs more

often in high humidity conditions.

New front disc brake pads have been released with a revised noise dampening weight to correct this

concern. Replace the front disc brake pads, pad springs and caliper pins. The part numbers are listed in

the PI.

Also, it is very important that you apply anti-seize lubricant, part number 19303311 to each end of the

disc brake pad abutments as shown in this graphic. Refer to the Front Disc Brake Pad Replacement

procedure in SI for further details.

PI0917 covers 2013-2015 Regal GS, ATS with RPO J55, the XTS with RPO J64, the CTS with RPO J55 or

J56, and the 2014 SS for the same type of brake squeak.

On these vehicles apply the same lubricant, part number 19303311, to the backing plate abutments on

each end of each pad. You do not need replace the pads.

MIKE

Our next 2 stories concern the 2014 CTS sedan console. The first item is the small pop-out pocket at the

rear of the console. SI calls this the rear compartment. It contains a power outlet on one side and sits

just above the carpet. A number of rear panel assemblies have been returned to the WPC. When

inspected, the only concern was that the rear compartment was unseated and would not close properly.

So, we put a short video together to show how to inspect and reinstall the rear compartment, let’s take

a look.

VIDEO

The 2014 CTS Sedan has a compartment at the back of the center console. The door is opened by

pressing it in. There is a small tray and a power outlet contained inside. These compartments are

designed to release from the console if hit with enough force. This could happen if the door is left

open and a brief case or luggage is slid into the rear seat floor area. This door has been poped

out of place and the door no longer closes properly.

To repair, remove the rear panel from the console and then remove the rear compartment from

the panel by removing the 4 screws.

Typically the reason the door doesn’t close properly is that the arm is no longer inserted into the

spring loaded lever of the housing. This is what allows dampened opening of the compartment.

Gently remove the compartment from the housing and inspect for 2 metal pins on each side of

the assembly. Also check the arm on the back to ensure it is not broken. If the compartment

passes these inspections, it can be reused.

Next, inspect the spring loaded lever in the housing for damage. In this case both pieces are in

good shape.

Begin reassembly by using a medium sized screwdriver or trim stick to lower the spring loaded

lever in the housing from the back.

Insert the compartment into the housing using gentle pressure while lining up the arm with the

slot in the lever. Once all 4 pins are inserted into the slots, gently press the on door or the

compartment until it latches closed.

Check your work by inspecting the arm and lever at the back of the housing. If the pin on the arm

is inserted into the slot on the lever and the door closes properly, the door is assembled correctly.

Open and close the door several times to ensure proper operation.

If the face of the rear panel is damaged or the door assembly is missing one or more of the metal

pins, these parts must be replaced.

As you can see in the parts diagram, the rear console face, number 18, the compartment door,

number 21 and the rear compartment assembly, number 25 are all available seperatly. Only

order the parts that you need. Do NOT order the entire rear panel.

Once repairs to the compartment are complete, reattach it to the rear panel and reinstall the

panel to the console.

MIKE

Remember to only replace parts when necessary and then only replace the necessary parts. Don’t get

talked into installing an assembly when separate parts are available.

As you can see on this rear console panel, the assembly could have rear HVAC controls included. In this

case all that was needed was to reinstall the compartment as shown in the video. The rear compartment

still had all 4 pins and showed no other damage.

While we are discussing the console of the CTS, I also wanted to point out that power cup holder door

concerns may also lead to replacement of unnecessary parts.

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If the door is damaged, the motor does not operate or door does not open and close smoothly, the cup

holder door assembly is available separately.

If you take a look at the parts diagram, number 42 is the cup holder door assembly. It contains the door,

plate, track mechanism and motor. Do not order number 22 which is the Front Console Cup Holder Plate

assembly.

This item includes 8, 11, 16, 19 through 21, 23 through 25, and 35 through 42. You do not need all of

these parts.

Here is a look at some of the parts removed from the cup holder plate assembly that you do not need to

repair a door concern, and of course, the part you do need. Remember, replacement of unnecessary

parts may lead to a feedback.

MIKE

Next up is the AC compressor on the Caprice PPV

SLIDE

There is a fuse internal to the clutch. On some vehicles that fuse can open after the vehicle is idled for a

longer time. Up until now, the clutch was not available as a separate part, you had to replace the

compressor. Now a new clutch has been released that does not have the internal fuse so you only have

to replace the clutch. Replacement compressors may still have the integrated fuse until this fall, so it is

important to use the replacement clutch for this concern because replacing the entire compressor may

lead to a repeat concern.

We have covered bulletin 12-08-64-004 in the past but wanted to give you a reminder. It covers 2011

and 2012 Caprice PPV as well as 2008 and 2009 G8 with a concern that the door glass becomes jammed

and can’t be raised above half way.

The bulletin directs you to install 2 foam spacers, part number 92289653 along with a new window

regulator. The blocks will help prevent the concern from reoccurring. Don’t install the regulator without

the blocks. The bulletin provides details on how to install them in the correct position. The same foam

blocks should be installed in the regulator on the opposite side of the vehicle to prevent that regulator

from having the same concern.

MIKE

Next, we wanted to give you a heads up on a new feature on the 2015 ATS and CTS Sedan

SLIDE

Option code UHX is Lane Keep Assist or LKA. This option is part of the Active Safety System package

UGN, and is intended to help avoid unintended lane departures by gently turning the steering wheel to

correct drifting out of the lane. If the driver is actively steering the vehicle, LKA will not activate.

The system uses the front-view camera module that is mounted near the inside rear view mirror to

detect lane markings and the Electric Power Steering or EPS to correct the steering as the vehicle

approaches those markings unless the turn signal is activated. If the correction is not enough to keep the

vehicle in its lane, a chime or a haptic vibration is activated.

MIKE

If you are working on a vehicle with this option, be aware that the steering wheel and tires may move

without warning if the vehicle is lifted with the front wheels off the ground and the vehicle in gear.

That’s it for What’s Hot for Cars. What’s Hot for Trucks is next.

What’s Hot for Trucks

MIKE

To start Trucks, PIT5290 covers 2015 Escalades, Tahoes and Yukons for a customer concern of rear AC

inoperative. When you check the system, the front AC is blows cold air and is working normally.

SLIDE

If you check the rear AC lines at the TXV, both lines may be warm or the low side may only slightly cool.

This may be caused by the rear TXV being very restricted or plugged with debris.

To correct this concern, recover the system, replace the TXV and install a liquid line filter to stop any

additional debris from affecting the new TXV. The filter part number is 2591263 and slides inside the

liquid line at the TXV.

In some cased the ribs on the filter will need to be cut off with a razor blade to obtain proper fit.

Reassemble the system and evacuate for 1 hour before charging.

MIKE

PIT5294 covers a tinny rattle or buzz noise from the rear of 2015 Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon

models.

SLIDE

The noise may be caused by the muffler heat shield mounting stud coming loose from the body.

This view above the shield shows that the stud is not pulled tight to the body.

To correct this concern, replace the broken stud by installing a M6 rivet stud. Remember to use a drill

stop when drilling the hole for the M6 rivet stud. Otherwise you may drill up through the floor pan.

MIKE

Well, that’s it for Trucks. Powertrain is next.

Powertrain

MIKE

Our first Powertrain topic is PI1247 which covers the 2014 Spark equipped with the CVT, RPO M4M and

a customer concern that the RPM is too high and the trans will not shift cold or the trans is slipping cold.

SLIDE

One of the normal operating characteristics of this transmission is that the second gear upshift is

prevented until fluid temperature is greater than -4 degrees F. This allows the fluid to warm quicker and

improves vehicle emissions and heater performance.

Check the transmission fluid level and road test the vehicle. If the second gear ratio upshift occurs with

the fluid temp above -4 degrees F, do not attempt any repairs.

PI1217 covers 1997 through 2009 vehicles (pull the vehicle list from the PI?) equipped with a 4T65

transmission and a customer concern that fluid is leaking from under the vehicle after a remanufactured

transmission or valve body has been installed. A visual inspection may reveal that the fluid is leaking

from the trans vent. This may be caused by a worn, oversized pressure regulator valve bore that is

allowing excessive line pressure to leak into the exhausted port which is just under the transmission

vent.

Begin diagnosis with the basics:

Check fluid level

Check the fluid for water or coolant contamination

Ensure the correct fluid level indicator is being used

Check for a restricted or damaged vent

Check for case porosity around the vent

Check the case cover plate or channel plate for proper torque and gasket installation.

If you don’t find the cause of the leak with these inspections, replace the valve body.

Next, Bulletin 14-06-02-001 covers a Coolant Level Low message being displayed in the DIC after surge

tank replacement on the 2014 SRX. A check of the coolant level may show that it is at the correct level.

This can occur because a new surge tank was released with a float that works in an opposite manner

from the old tank. It will be necessary to reprogram the IPC with the latest service calibrations listed in

TIS2Web.

This was a running change in production and the bulletin lists the VIN breakpoint. Vehicles built after

that break will not need the software update if the tank is replaced.

A table in the bulletin lists the old and new surge tank part numbers along with the current calibration

numbers for each tank.

And the tank part number is embossed on the top of the tank so you can easily tell which tank is

installed in the vehicle.

Next is PIP5207 which covers 2013 Equinox and Terrain models. The concern is an extended crank or

hard start after a short trip and a short soak when at high altitude. GM released a calibration to correct

this concern. Reprogram the ECM with the calibration identified as “Service Calibration for Short Soak

Restart Improvements”.

MIKE

Next is an update to PI1203. It now provides a repair for the 2014 Impalas with a customer concern of

steam coming from the front grille at idle or seeing vapor coming from the radiator after car washes.

SLIDE

Rain or car wash run off water reaching the condenser or radiator can create the steam.

Remove the front sight shield and install 2 pieces of BRS tape 17 inches long along the front edge of the

shield at the areas marked. Also replace the radiator air upper baffle and deflector with a revised part.

The BRS tape can be obtained from Kent automotive.

MIKE

For our last story in Powertrain, we have a concern when servicing 6T30 series transmissions.

A number of replaced transmissions returned to the WPC have had the low and reverse or one-way

clutch installed incorrectly, sometimes with a lot of force.

So we have a short video showing the proper installation. After having done this procedure, I can see

that it would be easy to cock this part while sliding it into the case, so you do have to be careful and stop

as soon as it binds. Never attempt to force it.

At the start of the video we give you a short view inside the WPC Transmission tear down area. So let’s

take a look:

VIDEO

Today we are at the GM Warranty Parts Center in Auburn Hills Michigan. This is the transmission

tear down area. Here, all returned transmissions are disassembled and inspected

The technician documents his findings while performing the tear down. The technician’s report is

then compared to the report sent by the dealer. Each week, Brand Quality managers meet with

engineering and the technicians to review returned transmissions and determine root cause of

the failures. They also decide what actions need to be taken to help prevent future problems.

Some parts are returned to engineering, the transmission assembly plant or the supplier for

further analysis.

In this video we are going to review the proper assembly technique on the 6T30 low and reverse,

or one-way clutch. A number of these transmissions have been returned with the clutch

incorrectly installed which causes case damage.

The low and reverse clutch assembly on the 6T30 must be correctly orientated or clocked during

assembly. The outer diameter of the clutch is held stationary by the transmission case. There are

grooves cut in the case that line up with protrusions or lugs on the outer surface of the clutch.

If the clutch is not clocked correctly, it can quickly jam against the case preventing complete

installation and may be very difficult to remove. Applying additional force only compounds the

problem, cutting into the aluminum case. It appears that this clutch was beaten into the case

with a hammer.

If, during assembly, the clutch is incorrectly clocked, or wedges into the case, use a hook tool to

gently apply upward pressure around the outside diameter to release it from the case. Work

around the clutch gradually pulling it upward and freeing it from the case.

Before the clutch is installed, be sure the case is clean and free of debris.

The low and reverse clutch assembly has large flat areas along the outside circumference

without protrusions. These will be used for correct clocking during assembly.

With the transmission mounted to the holding fixture, stand with the valve body at the 6 O’clock

position. Rotate the flat area of the low and reverse clutch assembly so that it is positioned

between 2 and 5 O’clock.

Once the low and reverse clutch assembly is lowered into the case, gently rotate it back and forth

until it drops into a fully seated position.

MIKE

I’m not quite sure how these clutches are being clocked incorrectly. When I attempted to clock it wrong,

it wouldn’t even begin to fit. But there were 2 current examples at the WPC while we were there. I can

assure you, a hammer is not required to install this part.

I did find that when it went in cocked and caught on the case it was difficult to get back out. When I

tried to pull up on the low side, it would pull up too far and leave the opposite side too low again locking

it in place. Also, once it is back out of the case, wipe down the clutch and the case to remove any small

shavings created by the binding condition. The bottom corner of the clutch is sharp and can shave fine

pieces off of the case.

It is important to note that all transmissions sent to the WPC are torn down and inspected to determine

root cause. If a transmission is replaced because it was improperly serviced a tech at the WPC will notice

and they’ll record that finding.

As we were getting ready to film this video, GM announced a campaign on the 6T30 that involves

replacement of the Turbine shaft. MIKE Johnston, the Brand Quality Manager asked that we add

information on how to release the snap ring holding the shaft to the housing, which can be a bit tricky.

Clip removal will require a set of snap ring pliers or a couple of picks. We tried it both ways.

SLIDE

Here you can see the pliers being used. Notice that the snap ring will almost always be stretched out and

must be replaced as part of this repair.

Next we used a pick and a small screwdriver to release the clip on another transmission. Both methods

worked, so it is a matter of finding which works better for you. Installing the new snap ring can be done

with the pliers or picks. Just be careful to not stretch out the snap ring.

MIKE

That’s it for Powertrain. Back to Basics is next.

Back to Basics

MIKE

In back to basics this month, we have a follow up to an email sent to us by Josh Fhurong. He was asking

how the seat should be removed from an Acadia, Enclave or Traverse that has the seat harness

connector campaign performed. In the May 2014 EI we said that when necessary, the wires should be

cut as close to the splice clip as possible and then reattached when the repair is complete.

I went back to Brand Quality with a couple of questions concerning this repair. Can the heat shrink

tubing be removed from the wiring or do we have to cut it off?

And, when reassembling these wires, where do we get more of the heat shrink tubing that came in the

kit?

Well, turns out removing the heat shrink is pretty logical. We put a short video together to show how to

cut the wire and remove the heat shrink, let’s take a look.

VIDEO

Locate the splice clip by sliding your fingers along the heat shrink tubing. Cut through the tubing

and wiring as close to the clip as possible.

Repeat this on the other side of the clip. The wires are now separated and only a very short piece

has been cut from each side.

Using the torch, gently heat the tubing to liquefy the adhesive. Then use pliers to slide the tubing

off the wire. Remember, the heat shrink tubing will be hot. Don’t use your hands.

While the wire is still warm, use a towel to wipe off any remaining adhesive.

Repeat the removal procedure on the other piece of wire. The wiring is now ready for splicing.

MIKE

It’s just that easy! Heat it up and slide it off.

Now as far as the replacement tubing, you should be able to find it through your local vendors but it

must be the type with adhesive inside to provide a moisture tight seal. Also remember that the splice

clips are in the J38125 terminal repair kit.

The seat removal procedure in SI has been updated for vehicles that have already had the campaign

completed. As long as you cut as close to the splice clip as possible, there should be no problem with the

length of the harness.

That’s it for Back to Basics. Next up, Fix it Right the First Time.

Fix it Right the First Time

MIKE

Fix it Right the First Time is where we review two COMMONLY MIS-DIAGNOSED symptoms, one for Cars

and one for Trucks.

TURN

For cars this month, we have a noise concern on the 2013 and 2014 ATS.

SLIDE

PI1225 deals with a rattle and/or a squeak in the front passenger area that may sound like it’s coming

from the dash. What might actually be happening is the seat’s front finish panel is making noise on the

seat frame and the sound is just reflecting off of the dash.

What you SHOULD DO if you encounter this concern is follow the steps in the PI to apply Anti-Squeak

Film Tape to the seat frame in the three places that the panel attaches.

What you SHOULD NOT DO is remove the dash or replace the glove box door for this concern.

MIKE

Ok, our Fix it Right the First Time for trucks is a wind noise concern on the new 1500 pickups.

SLIDE

PI1221 points out two possible causes for excessive wind noise from the front door glass on 2014

Silverado and Sierra 1500s.

The first possibility is that the door is not fitting correctly, causing it to stand proud of the roof. The

other possibility is that the Front Door Glass Run Channel Weatherstrip in the Front Upper Corner is not

installed correctly near the mirror.

What you SHOULD DO if you run into this concern is to follow the instructions in the PI to either adjust

the door inward at the top, or adjust the weatherstrip so that it fits correctly.

What you SHOULD NOT DO is replace seals or weatherstrips without using the information in this PI to

help properly identify the cause of the concern.

Summary

MIKE

OK, that’s it for Fix it Right the First Time. I’d like to thank all of you for watching today.

SLIDE

And, as always, if you have any questions on what was covered today please send us an email at

EI@raytheon.com, and we’ll be sure to answer them as quickly as possible. You can also use this email

address to make suggestions.

We’re always interested in hearing about topics you’d like us to cover.

Now, I want to give you a heads-up on next month’s Emerging Issues.

The August Emerging Issues will be available on the training website by August 14th.

After logging on, select

- Resources

- then Video On Demand

- Select “10214.08D – August 2014 Emerging Issues”

- Or you can do a Catalog Search for this course number.

To get credit for watching this show, make sure you take the test on the Center of Learning website.

The test can be accessed in one of three ways:

First, you can click on Testing then Service Technical then Know-How Seminars…

Or second, from the Catalog “View Course” page, you can click on the “Test Out” link.

Or third, when the player reaches the end of this video, a “Take Test” link will appear. Click on the link

to take the test.

MIKE

That brings us to the end of this month’s Emerging Issues Seminar.

We’ll see you again next month.

Thanks again for viewing.