101 bracelets, necklaces, and earrings

Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings

Issue No. 10 / July 2013

Misty A. Marquis

Melanie Stafford

Jamie Hogsett, Denise Peck

Nancy Arndt

Kristal Wick

Lisa Monsen, Chelsea Carr

Art and Jewelry Daivd Pyle

Jim McIntosh

Marylin C. Koponen

Dana Groves

Monica Turner

Mellissa Marie Brown, Tina Rolf

Jennifer Samsell

Barbara Naslund

James B. Bogner III

Ashley Millhouse

Trish Faubion

Chad Blichfeldt, Lee Ann Short

Nancy Arndt

Misty Marquis

Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings

101 Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings | 20132

Editorial Director Editor In Chief

Technical EditorsProofreader

Editor, Beadingdaily.comEditorial Intern

Group PublisherAdvertising Media Sales Director

Senior Advertising ManagerAdvertising ManagersClassified Advertising

Ad TraffickersAd Coordinator

Circulation Manager

Art Director Associate Art Director

Production DirectorProduction

Production EditorPhotography

ContentsTools for the Trade.......6

Techniques..................12

Bracelets 101Elegant Poochby Marlene Blessing...................18

Charmby Danielle Fox..........................20 Sweet Honeyby Melinda Barta........................22

Mademoiselle Pearlby Denise peck........................... 24

Sweet Swallowby Gaea Cannaday.......................26

Necklaces 101Love Birdby Jean Campbell........................28

Elisha’s Coralsby Maria Dao............................. 30

Blissby Rebecca Campbell...................32

Seaweed and Secret Beadsby Jaime Hogsett............................34

Flower Bouquetby Derya Aksoy................................36

Earrings 101Island Discothequeby Jamie Hogsett............................38

Pleasure Dropsby Leslie Rogalski...........................40

Black Lilyby Jess Itallia Lincoln......................42

Midnight Deco Dropsby Jane Dickerson...........................44

Project Contributors.......46

Resources..........................48

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2013 | 101 Bracelets, Necklaces, and Earrings 3

forthe trade

Beads are the oldest and most widespread art form, having been used in virtually every culture since the ancient times. Originally beads were worn to give an indication of social status or religious beliefs and were widely used as a currency, talisman or a healing token. These early beads, made from wood and various plants or insect resins, are still popular today.

by Alison Sly


narrow down your choice to make the task less daunting. As different beading techniques often use specific types of beads, once you decide what you are going to bead then the task becomes much easier. Seed beads are ideal for techniques such as bead loom weaving, off-loom weaving or ropes and cords, whereas larger beads are more suitable for threading and stringing, and wire-work. Learning a little about the different types of beads, how they are measured and different

Beginning bead work It is quite possible to make lots of beautiful

beaded items without buying any specialist tools. But, to begin, basic equipment from your work-box will be fine and then as you progress you can invest in one or two particular tools as required. Bead work tools are readily available from craft and bead shops or from one of the many on-line suppliers, some of which are listed on page 48.

With such a variety of beads it can be over-whelming deciding what to buy but it is easy to


Millimeter Bead Size Chart

2348 7 6 5

9

18 16 14 12 10

finishes will help you make an informed choice next time you visit the bead shop. Although it is always a pleasure actually handpicking your beads, internet shopping is becoming increasingly popu-lar and you will be able to find any bead you need online. The internet makes it easy to buy beads from around the world and these will be delivered to your door in a few days. Although postage is added, it is often still more economical.

Bead Pots and ContainersIt is important to store beads carefully so that they are easy to access, don’t spill out and can be returned to the container quickly once the work is done.

Beads are sold in a variety of containers, from plastic bags to tubes and boxes. In general, these are adequate for point of sale but once opened it is often better to transfer the beads to stronger containers. Beads sold in tubes should be fine so long as the lid is a good fit. Once the beads are finished, hold on to empty tubes to store other beads.

You can buy a variety of containers with secure screw tops that ideal for seed beads. Lager beads can be stored in small polythene boxes. Look for inexpensive storage boxes sold at bead and craft fairs. Boxes with a lid the same size are particularly useful as you can tip half the beads into the lid to make if easier to handpick a few.

Tip: Remember to label beads carefully when transferring to

a new container, as well as where you bought them, is essential information.


As you design your pieces, this chart will help you measure the size of the beads you will be working with.


The Essential Tools

ScissorsExcellent for cutting string

(not wire).Wire CuttersAlmost known as flush cutters, this tool has a flat side so that you can cut wire with a straight end. Use a small pair with fine tips to get in close when making jewelry. (Top and bottom images.)

Round-Nose PliersThese pliers have tubular tapered jaws and are used for coiling, bending wire and making jump rings. Work near the tip of the jaws for tiny loops and further towards the base for larger rings.

Flat-Nose PliersJewelry pliers, both round and flat-nose, are used to attach findings and fastenings. Some flat-nose pliers, also called snipe-or chain- nose pliers, taper towards the tip and others have a blunt end (blunt nose). Flat-nose pliers have flat jaws with a slightly rough surface to grip wire or findings.

Crimping PliersIf you plan to use crimps regularly for spacing beads and fastening threads, crimping pliers will produce a more professional finish than flat-nose pliers. The pliers come in three sizes of crimps.


Additional Tools

Tip: Good lighting is es-sential for most bead work,

especially if you are working with small beads. Even if you do not need to wear spectacles poor light makes it difficult to see the small holes in the beads, making it harder to pass the needles under threads when off-loom weaving and working on a loom.

TweezersFine pointed tweezers are useful if you need to untie knots and also for picking up individual small beads from the bead mat or a dish of beads.

Measuring ToolsWhen beginning any project or design, it is always important to measure out the piece. Use a combination of the bead size chart on page 8 and a ruler to measure the length of the necklace or bracelet you are wanting to make.

NeedlesThere are a wide variety of different types of bead work and each form requires a different type of needle. But this is a beginners manual so any small needle will work for any of the project designs.

Here are an assortment of the essential tools that will be used throughout the magazine for you to create your designs.


by Lyn Kehoe

PearlTechniques:

Knotting


Stringing PearlsWhen you string pearls on a silk cord is an

age-old process. With valuable pearls, the choice of “to knot, or not to knot“ between the pearls

could mean the difference between losing just a few or losing or damaging all of them if the strand were to break. Pearls should be restrung every one or two years, depending on the amount of wear and the exposure to hair spray, perfume, body oils, lotions, moisture, and perspiration they receive.

These elements can wear and soil the silk and cause a potential break point for the strand. The real challenge in pearl stringing is being patient with yourself as you learn and practice stringing and tying techniques. All that’s required is practice for professionals results. With practice, the process will become easier and more satisfying!

Silk is a natural fiber. Because it absorbs anything that comes into contact with it, keep your hands clean and dry as you string. Clean and dry them often during your stringing to keep the silk as pristine as possible while you work. This results in a cleaner, more professional finished product for your customers or yourself. Cleanliness at your work space is a priority.

Put things away after you use them; keep your work surface as free and clear of unneeded items as possible. Your strand can easily get tangled in extra materials or snagged on a sharp tool. If you’re restringing a strand of pearls, keep the pearls in the same order as they were originally strung and restring in the same order.

Be useful for very close work and is indispensable when working tubular crochet or brick stitch with tiny seed beads. Typically, the biggest or best-quality pearls have been positioned in the middle (the front) of the


necklace, and lesser-quality pearls are relegated to the back, nearer the clasp. Changing this order could adversely affect the beauty of the finished piece. This is also true in restringing graduated strands or necklaces where a small variance of pearl sizes is used.

If you’re restringing a strand of pearls, keep the pearls in the same order as they were originally strung and restring in the same order. Typically, the biggest or best-quality pearls have been positioned in the middle (the front) of the necklace, and lesser-quality pearls are relegated to the back, nearer the clasp. Changing this order could adversely affect the beauty of the finished piece.

This is also true in restringing graduated strands or necklaces where a small variance of pearl sizes is used. If the strand seems a tight after restringing, take note and don’t pull quite so hard when knotting the next strand. The silk cord will ease out a bit with the weight of the pearls as it’s worn. Avoid stretching the strand when it’s complete.

What You NeedPearls or pearl beads: the number depends

on the length of strands desired and size of pearls; typically temporary strands are about 16” long, and once strung and knotted, the strand with the clasp will measure about 18”.6’ silk cord on card needle attached; cord size depends on pearl size and pearl hole size. Choose white

silk for white, off-white, peach, pink or light gray tinted pearls. Choose black or gray silk for black pearls. You may want to consider colored silks for stringing gem beads for a striking and wondrously beautiful presentation.

Bead-reamer tool (hand-operated for reaming a few pearls; motorized for extra fast work or when you have a lot of pearls to drill).

French wire or bullion (sized large enough to exceed silk cord diameter; color to match clasp metal). Pearl clasp or other safety clasp. Awl, tweezers, or knotting tool. Jeweler’s crystal

cement Jeweler’s cement will not make the cord brittle; it also soaks into the cord. Do not use cyanoacrylate to glue the beginning and ending knots.

Hand wipes (baby wipes), antibacterial hand cleanser, or access to soap and water. Beading board, rubberized mat surface, or light-

colored towel. Squizzers or cutters. Optivisor or other magnifying glasses. Good light source.

If the strand seems a little bit tight after stringing, take note

and don’t pull quite as hard when knotting the

next strand.


Open the carded silk to its full length. Because silk is made of long fibers it’s extremely strong. Be careful not to let it cut into your fingers.

1Tie one basic overhand knot in the end. This will cut off later; it simply keeps the first pearls from sliding off the silk.

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String the French wire, try getting the piece onto your strand by picking it up with the needle. Help ease the French wire over the meet-point of the cord and needle; this is where the french wire commonly comes uncoiled.

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Technique:the

Choosing the proper cord size is important. If you use a silk cord that’s thin for the pearls you’re stringing, the pearls will move around on the cord. In addition knots tied into a small cord will be too small and the pearls will slip over them, defeating your purpose for knotting the strand.


Add the non-hook half of the clasp. Never attach the fishhook half of the clasp to the beginning of your strand.

Tie and overhand knot next to the pearl. Pull down and string through the second pearl. Then tie another overhand knot. Pull down and string through the third pearl and continue.

Carefully snip the excess cord close on that end and on the other end. Lightly touch a bead of Jeweler’s cement on each of the first and last three knots.

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Conversely, if the cord size you choose is too thick, it can make the stringing project a very frustrating one, and continual tugging and untwisting of the silk can abrade it, compromising the overall look and security of the strand.

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