10 magazine august 2011

THE H A NOK

한옥Experiencing and Preserving Korea's Unique Architectural

Heritage

ART THEATER CONCERTS FILM COMMUNITY FITNESS DINE & DRINK NIGHTLIFE TRAVEL

Printed using 100% soy ink.

KOREA AWAITS! AUGUST 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 11 외국인의 한국생활 노하우

6 From the Editor / Shot of Korean

8 Contributors

10 Letters / Blog of the Month / Korea by the Numbers

11 Reader’s 10

12 10 Questions John Glionna

14 Expat Expertise Cycling in Korea

16 Taste of Korea Japchae

18 In the Kitchen Darren Vaughn at The Spice

20 Dine & Drink Korea’s Best Naengmyeon

30 Hotel & Resort News

32 Expat News

33 Newcomers

34 Gastronomic News

72 A Happy Ending

Seo

ul S

hake

spea

re C

ompa

ny

22Our double cover story this month gives you the full scoop on hanok, or Korean traditional houses. First, historian Robert Neff tells us about the expats who are working hard to preserve hanok in the face of urban redevelopment. Second, Bryce Weibley relates the awesome experiences to be had at Korea’s hanok villages.

HERE’S TO HANOK

Shot by Dylan Goldby

Nationwide Calendar 38 Movies Transformers: Dark of the Moon,

The Men Who Stare at Goats and Save the Green Planet!

39 TV The Knee-Drop Guru on MBC

40 Music Black Country Communion, Raphael Saddiq, and Secret

Books Canadian Fiction

41 Tech Do You Copy That?

Regional Calendar 37 Seoul Editor’s Pick The American Art

42 Seoul Restaurant Review Durim

44 Seoul Discovery Cycling Seoul

46 Seoul Editor’s Pick Sejong Belt

59 Gangwon Discovery Mureung Valley

62 Chungcheong Editor’s Pick Jecheon Film & Music Fest

66 Korean Destination Geoje Island

68 Jeolla Foodie Find Bamboo Feast

Sho

t by

Tayl

or S

loan

For information about performances by Linkin Park, Air Supply and K-pop bands 2NE1 and FT Island, see the Seoul calendar on page 50.

AUGUST 2011 VOL. 3 NO. 11

[Nol-leo wa.] : Come over to hang out. (Lit.: Come over to play.) There was a great movie that came out in 2003 called Singles, and the big song on the soundtrack was “놀러 와” by Loveholic. I highly recommend it at the 노래방 for those of you who would like to learn this expression (as well as watching the movie—it’s a classic about being young and single in Korea).“놀 다” (Nol-da) is the infinitive verb for “to play” while “러” is “in order to.” For example, “사러 가.” (Sa-reo ga.) “사다” is “to buy” and “가다” means “to go,” so it means “Go to buy (X)”. If you and your friends are lacking cigarettes, then you can tell the youngest in the group, “사러 가!”—“Go to buy (them)!”While we don’t normally talk about “playing” once we’ve broken the age of 12, Koreans often do. It’s kind of fun. It’s nice to think of hanging out with your friends as “playing” and there’s certainly a sense of freedom to be like a child inviting your friends out to play!

그냥 놀러 와! [Geu-nyang nol-leo wa!] - Just come out and play already!

O ne of my favorite TV shows is Kitchen Nightmares. In case you haven’t seen it before, I’ll give you a synopsis of just about every episode. A desperate restaurant owner calls Chef Gordon Ramsey because

he’s their last hope. Gordon shows up and finds a restaurant that is a shambles - bad food, unsanitary conditions and ignored customers. But the funny part is that the owners initially always think everything is all good. The food is fine - it’s the custom-ers’ poor palates that are at fault and the place is clean “enough”. Rancid food? Well, it’s a mistake anyone could make. Sorry, we really hope no one got sick but it’s just a little screw up.

But then Gordon comes in and sheds some much-needed objec-tivity on the situation. The consummate professional, he strides in and tells the owners point blank that their food is junk - and usually throws in a few other 4-letter adjectives for emphasis.

Initially the owners always balk. Change never comes easy. First Gordon has to break them, and he breaks them by forcing them to face the entire reality of their situation. He just keeps throwing the customer complaints; the disgusting, unsanitary conditions; and the gross food in their faces. And then in a moment of reflection and silence, he asks them how they’re doing financially. That’s usually when they finally break, crying and asking for his help.

Finally, Gordon can be a nice guy. He usually goes back and tries to show them that he sees how they could get to where they are, but that now it’s time to change. Then he proceeds to build them back up again, with the occasional 4-letter word thrown in for emphasis and inspiration. By the end of most episodes, the owners think Gordon is a hero, and he has put them on track to running a successful restaurant.

I’m very excited about this month’s cover story. I personally love the old neighborhoods and architecture that exist in Korea, and I hope that what is left will be preserved for a long, long

time. I’m very grateful to Bryce Weibley for having worked so hard to give you plenty of ways that you can enjoy the tradi-tional Korean hanok yourself. There are many places to stay where you can get a feeling of how people used to live in a simpler time. Check out the f irst half of our cover story on p. 22 for more details. I’m also ecstatic that historian Robert Neff (the man who taught me what 피맛골 meant, back before the “alley for avoiding horses” was destroyed to build office build-ings) has done us the honor of interviewing some people who I have respected immensely for many years. The subjects of his interview are out there trying to tell Koreans that their focus on development that brought this country from third-world status to the G-20 in only 40 years has been amazing, but it has come at a cost. Maybe it’s time to reflect a little before tearing down the next hanok as it’s not too late to preserve some of the great his-tory that is left - now and for future generations of Koreans and tourists to this great country.

In his article, Mr. Neff refers to a meeting with a Korean official in the tourism industry who, during a discussion on traditional Korean housing and structures, said something along the lines of “You Westerners worry too much about preserving old buildings.” Reading that immediately brought to mind my favorite TV show, those many restaurant owners and their exasperated customers - as well as Gordon’s elaborate 4-letter vocabulary used for emphasis.

ST E PH E N R E V E R E M A NAGI NG E DI T OR

A Shot of Korean by Stephen Revere

Check out Survival Korean and Survival Korean: Basic Grammar Skills for more Korean lessons from 10’s Managing Editor, Stephen Revere.

6 | 10 Magazine August 2011

놀러 와.

Culture Nightmares

We Don't Claim To

Be The Only Italian,

Just The Best !

Cucina Italiana Pizzeria & BarTel 02-797-0488~9

Ristorante & LoungeTel 02-553-9000

Italian PastryDeli & Wine BarTel 02-790-5907

www.sortinos-seoul.comSortino's 2nd Generation

Santino SortinoSortino's 1st GenerationCarmelo Sortino

Bryce Weibley (p. 22) is an American expat with an itch for experiencing new cultures. He’s gnawed at chicken feet in the highlands of Laos, prayed to Allah in Kashmir, and shot vodka for breakfast in Ukraine. These days Bryce is enjoying Korean culture with his lovely Canadian girlfriend Sandra. Please check out more of his photos at bryceweibley.smugmug.com.

Jason Strother (p. 20) is an American freelance radio journalist who first came to Korea as an exchange student in 2002. Four years later he returned and has since reported from around the country as well as from Pyongyang. Jason has covered everything from presidential elections to mud festivals and was even evacuated into a bomb shelter while reporting from Yeonpyeong Island.

Nick Budniewski (p. 66) comes from Buffalo, New York and has enjoyed writing, teaching and noraebanging in Korea for the last 3 years. When not taking pictures or traveling anywhere he can, he has a tendency to get lost and overindulge in the great tastes of the world.

Barun Sarkar (p. 68) is a social animal cut from the cloth of diversity, escaping from a life of the ordinary while living in Korea. He claims to be a frequenter of healthy eating and fitness, although weekend sightings by third parties prove otherwise. Teaching, random traveling, socializing and writing as associate editor of The Jeonju Hub (thejeonjuhub.com) are what keep him ticking.

10 STAFF SPOTLIGHTSeulki Lee usually can be found in her favorite café in Jongno, listening to music or chatting for hours with her friends. Seulki loves to travel around and rejuvenate herself, and she’s looking forward to studying in Germany. For now, she’s happy to be working with her awesome colleagues at 10 Magazine.

Cover model Elaine Ahn has been helping out at 10 Magazine for a couple of months now. As a design intern, she’s been creating beautiful ads and features for our magazine since June. When we went looking for a model, despite some initial reluctance she of course came through, helping our

photographer Dylan Goldby and his assistant Ian Phillips in creating a beautiful image welcoming you to a hanok for our August issue.

The views expressed in these articles do not necessarily represent the views of 10 Magazine.

10 Magazine August Vol. 3 No. 11

등록번호: 용산 라 00184 (Registration: Yongsan Ra 00184)

Address 서울시 용산구 이태원로 211 한남빌딩 10층 10th floor Hannam Buildling 211 Itaewon-ro, Seoul 140-893

Phone 02-3447-1610

www.10mag.com

10 Magazine is published monthly by 10 Media Inc. © All Rights Reserved.

Please Recycle This Magazine


CONTRIBUTE TO 10 MAGAZINE

10 Magazine is currently looking for contributors all over Korea to assist with the directory and to provide articles. If you’re interested in gaining valuable writing experience and sharing your experience here with readers all across Korea, contact us at [email protected].

Executive Editor

Managing Editor

Assistant Editor

Edit Contributors

Art Director

Photographer

Design Contributors

Jai-yoon Kim [email protected] Revere [email protected] [email protected]

Michael Berry, Nicholas BudniewskiEun-kyu Choi, A-ran Choi, Chris Chou, Judith Ann Clancy, Andy Clay, Paul Eagle, Carlos Escamilla, Curtis File, Lauren Flenniken,Josh Hamlet, Ciaran Hickey, Young-rae Kim, Angela Lee, Seul-ki Lee, Stafford Lumsden, Jo-Anna Lynch, Russ Martin, Paul Matthews, Joe McPherson, Julia Mellor, John Mensing, Charles Montgomery, Ji-sun Moon, Robert Neff, Anna Orzel, David Oxenbridge, Jessica Perlaza, Alyssa Perry, Barun Sarkar, Jason Strother, Bryce Weibley, Ju-yeong Yeon, Soyeon Kimberly Yoon

[email protected]@[email protected]@[email protected]

Tara TPS. Co., Ltd

Sang-tae Kim [email protected] Lim [email protected] [email protected]

Hugh Lee [email protected] Goldby [email protected] Ahn, Grace Lee,Lillian Rihela

Marketing InquiriesCalendar EventsContributeCommentsSubscriptions

Printer

CEO

General Manager

Director of Finance/HR

Dongbu Rent a Car

Roll in style with Dongbu Rent a Car! We provide you with a range of vehicles from compact cars to luxurious cars, SUVs and VANs, etc.Daily rental is available with all types of cars. Make a reservation for your journey today!The Longer You Rent, The More You Save.

Maybe you’re taking the summer off or heading to a military base for your business trip. Whatever your long-term rental needs, choose our long-term lease plan and enjoy major discounts on great cars, suvs and vans.

The Savings Are Just The Beginning. Enjoy The Full Benefits Of Dongbu Rent a Car:

It’s Easy to Get the Savings StartedOur long-term lease plan specialists are standing by to answer all your questions and to help make all your arrangements. We are open every day 8 am - 6 pm to make your trip more enjoyable!

Call 02-793-6665(COM) / 723-5792(DSN) or email us at [email protected] / [email protected]’ll get right back to you. Thanks!

A student of taekwondo is in mid air, leg outstretched with his foot smashing through a board. Two Buddhist monks are whisper-ing together in the shade of an open door-way. A huge taegeukki (Korean flag) hangs from the dour red brick walls of Seodaemun Prison. These are just a few of the stunning images found on Gregory Curley’s blog pho-tography blog Hermit Hideaways.

Since Greg began the blog in 2007, it has primarily served as a showcase for his pho-tography. He posts regular shots from his travels in Seoul, where he lives and works, and throughout Korea. Some recent post-ings include shots taken at Gyeongbokgung Palace, Yonggungsa Temple in Busan, Heyri Art Village, and Haegeumgang near Geoje Island.

In addition to his photos, the blog is a clearinghouse for Greg’s work as a free-lance writer with CNNGo, Yonhap News, and other publishers. One standout article is a feature on Seochon, the little-known and well-preserved neighborhood between Gyeongbok Palace and Inwang Mountain.

Greg also puts up posts alerting his read-ers to upcoming events that are of particular interest to him, including a concert by Rufus Wainwright, the Seoul Jazz Festival, and the R-16 World B-Boy Championships. Other useful features for those who want to learn more about photography are the “Weekly Snapshots” posts, in which Greg links to some of his favorite recent photographs (often by expats in Korea), and his blogroll featuring the websites of photographers he draws inspiration from on.

But it’s Greg’s knack for taking memo-rable shots of life in Korea that keeps most visitors coming back for more.

Hi, I’ve recently read an article that is both on your website and in the June issue of 10 Magazine. There is one specific arti-cle that caught my attention and would like to ask for your help. I was wondering if you could put me in touch with Lisa Xing the writer of the article “Korean Destination - Jeju on the Flip Side.” The reason I want to get in touch with her is because her story and experience intrigued me. I was planning on going to Jeju Island during Chuseok. I would also like to experience the island for what it really is and explore by myself rather than doing and going to the main tour sites. If you could put me in touch with this Canadian native I’d greatly appreciate it as I am a Chinese Canadian as well. I’m looking for an adventure and experience

off the well-trodden path. Thanks, I’ll hear from you soon.

Vincent Tran, Suseong-gu, Daegu* * *

10’s ReplyThanks for your kind letter. We’ll be let-ting Lisa know that you are hoping to get in touch with her.Best wishes on your upcoming visit to Jeju. 10

* * *

Lisa and I have already started e-mail-ing each other. Thanks for linking us up. You’re very kind and helpful.Please let me know if you need anything else. The latest issue of 10 Magazine gave me lots and lots of info about dif-ferent places and events in S. Korea. I find it VERY helpful. The same goes for your website as well. I’ll be sure to pass on this info to my fellow English teach-ers. Vincent

LETTERS

BLOG OF THE MONTH

Hermit Hideawayshermithideaways.com

Korea by the Numbers

Annual cups of coffee consumed per person in Korea last year. This is up from 283 in 2009.

Korea National Statistical Office

Tons of coffee beans imported to Korea in 2010. This increased from 105,000 tons in 2009.

Korea National Statistical Office

The import price in won of 10 grams of ground coffee, the amount of coffee that goes into one Americano. The cost of an equivalent amount of unroasted raw coffee beans is about 60 won.

Korea Customs Office

The number of coffee shops in Hongdae, Seoul, the neighborhood in Korea with the most cafés. Jongno (99), Gangnam (88), and Chungjangno in Gwangju (84) came in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th.

Hankyung Business Magazine, June 22nd, 2011

312


Subscribe today for 45% off the cover price!

W29,000 for a year / W15,000 for 6 [email protected], 02-3447-1610

www.10mag.com

100

123

117,000

You’ve had your say about the expat bands and Korean groups that satisfy your desire for good tunes. For next month’s poll, though, we’re not so interested in your taste in music as in your taste buds. Recently, expats in Korea have seen a surge in foreign restaurants making inroads into the Korean market, from the long-awaited arrival of Taco Bell to the less expected appearance of Johnny Rockets. So lay it on us:

What Is Your Favorite Foreign Restaurant Chain in Korea?

Head on over to our website (10mag.com/readers10) to add your nominations for what should be included in the poll to our open thread through August 2nd and then vote in the poll between August 3rd and 14th. And of course don’t miss our Sep-

J essica, Tiffany, and the other seven members of Girls’ Generation whose names aren’t coming to mind right

And it’s not just the nine-member ensemble that didn’t make it into the top 10 of this month’s Reader’s 10 poll. Neither did JYP’s protégés The Wonder Girls, who have been touring America for the past few years. What we do have is a mix of rock bands, R&B vocalists, and girl and boy groups. Of course, this is Korea we’re talking about, and no one is going to be surprised to hear that six of the ten spots, including the winner, are K-pop groups that are more known for their dance moves than their vocals.

THE READER'S 10

What Is Your Favorite Korean Band, Group or Singer?

10 Magazine August 2011 | 11

10 Yoon Do Hyun Band (YB)9 Shinee8 Lena Park 박정현7 2PM6 2NE15 f(x)4 10cm3 Kim Yeon Woo 김연우2 Big Bang

2NE1

1. 2AM

1. What is the LA Times’ interest in South Korea and Koreans?It’s predominantly geopolitical. If there weren’t a North

Korea, we probably wouldn’t be in South Korea. Historically we’ve distilled the story between South and North Korea and it’s an extra that we get Korean softer culture. LA has the largest population of South Koreans outside of Seoul in Koreatown and I love the little cross-cultural stories that are part of the fabric of Los Angeles, like the Korean markets leaving Los Angeles. 2. Can you tell us about your job?

This has been pretty much a parachute beat. I cover South and North Korea. I travel to Japan, I go to Manila, I’ll probably be going to Jakarta. I joke with my wife that I cover about one-quarter of the world’s landmass. I try to take big-picture sto-ries. Rather than doing a bunch of stories that get on the inside of the paper I’d rather spend my time finding that good engag-

ing yarn to tell and get on page one. Unfor-tunately, Americans couldn’t find Korea on a map. And that’s not Korea’s fault. Most Californian kids couldn’t find Sacramento on the map (laughs).

3. What’s the biggest story here?When I got the job I sat down with my boss and we said that

some day, and I hope in our lifetime, the DMZ was going to be rolled up and tossed in the closet. And there’s going to be 19 to 22 million walking wounded who come down and all their stories are going to have to be told and people are going to say, “My god, this is terrible. Where was the Western press when this hap-pened?” The day-to-day stare down doesn’t interest me. I’d like to write stories about what it’s like to live in North Korea. 4. What were your first impressions when you got to Korea?

My first impression was that Koreans were not friendly in public. We say hello to strangers and Koreans don’t. But when I went back to the States, I told a friend, “I’m beginning to under-stand, I don’t have to walk through the world saying ‘hello’ to every person I meet,” and now when I go back to the States I give people more space than I did before. I think it’s a lesson to bring back to the States, that you don’t have to glad-hand. 5. What impresses you about Korea?

It’s one of the great success stories. They’ve gone from a lunar landscape after the war to a player. Technology, culture, democ-

I n 2008, when the LA Times gave John Glionna the northeast Asia beat, he was certain that he would be stationed in Beijing. He was surprised to discover that he would be stationed in Seoul, which he knew little about. Now, three years later, he is an old Seoul hand. 10 Magazine met Mr. Glionna in a coffee shop near

Namsan-gol. We quickly adjourned to his apartment, spacious and full of books and nick-nacks, to talk about the LA Times’ coverage of Korea and Mr. Glionna’s experiences and opinions of the region.

10 Magazine August 2011

N O R T H E A S T A S I A C O R R E S P O N D E N T F O R T H E L O S A N G E L E S T I M E S

12

10 QUESTIONS

John GlionnaINTERVIEW BY CHARLES MONTGOMERY, SHOTS BY DYL AN GOLDBY

racy—you can name all these ways that they’ve kind of leaped and bounded over other countries.6. I hear you’ve played golf on the “most dangerous course in the world” at Camp Bonifas. How was that?

It’s a one-hole, par-three course. As it turns out, that was a throwaway line that Sports Illustrated had given it in 1988 because there were thought to be mines out there. The whole idea of my story is that Camp Bonifas is a pretty isolated place and there are a lot of guys up there with time on their hands. So it was one of those things where it was an anomaly. It’s like a clown, a parade, in the middle of a war zone. The people who understand what I do and do it better than I do, writers and editors were say-ing that they liked the story for that reason: it lifted up a rock.7. Besides golf, what do you do for fun in Korea?

Drink. My wife is in and out of the country. I’m much happier when she’s here. She’s my weight, my bearing, my voice of reason. I work really hard, so on weekends I chill. I try to do a lot of read-ing. I go to the French neighborhood—I love that kind of village feel. A perfect afternoon for me is to go to my local coffeehouse with the papers, and get caught up on the world, take a walk in a nice neighborhood, go out to dinner, and do it again on Sunday!8. Do you have any specific issues related to reporting?

Officials don’t talk to the press. I’ve done a handful of inter-views in the three years I’ve been here. Either they’re afraid of the foreign press or they don’t respect us. I was at a dinner with a Korean official who didn’t like a story I did about how the Korean maritime borders may have been misdrawn after the Korean War. First the official took my boss to dinner with the red-penciled article, and he had talking points, an assistant and a stenographer. Then he chastised me. And I asked him, “If I had called you and asked you a question would you have talked to me?” He just said, “Probably not.”9. What is your favorite place in Korea. And don’t say Itaewon!

No, it’s not Itaewon (laughs). I’ve always told people there’s one beautiful spot and it’s in Gwanghwamun. If you’re looking north from the Press Club, the admiral is there. You look down the wide boulevards and the Blue House is in the background. Everything is there, the past, your democracy, the blue roof is right there, and you have this natural setting. It’s like the Mall in Washington. The other areas are posh and nice, and they have something to say for themselves, but Gwanghwamun is symbolic of the nation.10. What will you take back with you from Korea?

Makgeolli. I’ve told friends of mine that I could give up beer for makgeolli. It’s got that effervescent finish and it’s inexpensive. Good makgeolli, though. It really is like hard liquors—you’ve got to get top-shelf. Makgeolli, to me its Korea’s Academy Award-winner culturally and gastronomically. And no other country has anything like it. The other thing I’d take back, and I always say this when I talk to school kids, “You live in a safe country.” It is such an enlightening experience to live in a safe culture.



Learn the rules of the Korean road and join the other cyclists donning spandex and slicing through the wind at 40-plus kilometers an hour.

S o what makes cycling in Korea so special? As a foreigner, it can be a challenge to find the right equipment. If your Korean is limited, bet on getting lost. Races are difficult

to find too. So why are more and more people cycling in Korea? Let’s run down a list of why Korea is an amazing place to cycle.

FRIENDLY FACESCyclists in Korea are a growing group that search out newbies,

cradle them, wean them, and nurture them, until they are com-fortable to ride out on their own two wheels. They are a tightly-knit group that is always willing to help anyone out.

If you’re looking for a local group most major cities in Korea already have them. If your town has a scarcity of spandex clad cyclists, what better way to get more roadies out there than convince a friend to start cycling! If that isn’t an option visit your local community center or ask a Korean-speaking friend (if you can’t yourself) to look up groups on Naver in your town.

On top of the amazing groups, let us not forget the endless stories of friendly strangers helping cyclists; A warm smile, free water or fruit, a hot meal, help with directions - the list goes on. The unrelenting

support alone, makes cycling in Korea worth it.

ROAMING THE ROADSLuckily most major road signs in Korea are written in English

and Hangul. If you’ve left your map at home (the Korean Tour-ist Organization usually stocks them in English), make sure you try and stick to the Korean national routes (blue ovals with white numbers), and the Korean local routes (yellow rectangle, black numbers). The former roads run through nearly all-major cities and are generally cyclist friendly, but always have a good reflec-tor, a flashing light and stay on the right hand side. The Korean local routes are a little harder to navigate, but are great for scen-ery. If you’re ambitious (or have a GPS) try some of the farmer fields outside the cities. They are virtually abandoned, and most are paved.

The best times to plan your cycling trips around Korea are the spring or the fall. Winter = ice + freezing wind burn and summer = monsoons + exhaustingly hot. Avoid them if you can, but if you absolutely must get your two-wheel riding fix, make sure you’re geared up before setting off.

If you’re coming to Korea with your bike, check your airline for baggage allowance. Once here, transporting your bike on intercity buses is no problem. It’s best to avoid the subway with your bike, as you can be ticketed. If you take the risk,

A QUICK FIXEssentials for any ride according to some Han River Riders:

Multi tool Tire levers Tubes and a CO2 inflator Patches and a pump Cash or card A small rain coat Chocolate bar/cookies Water/athletic drink

14

EXPAT EXPERTISE

Pedal to the MetalWORDS AND SHOTS BY JUDITH ANN CLANCY


take the first or last cars, avoid rush hour, and keep your bike close to the walls. As for city buses, why bother? You can pedal faster!

SIGHTS TO SEEThe proximity of cities to rivers, lakes, and mountains make

Korea a mecca for beautiful scenery and challenging routes. Paths are abundant around rivers and lakes, or check out the Korean local routes around your town or city. Big or small, cities have sights and temples just beyond their limits. Or plan a route into your neighboring province; it’s closer than you think!

Stay at a lovely minbak (a cheap version of a B&B), yeogwan (motel) or a jjimjilbang (sauna) and make it a mini “cyclation”. Climbing your thing? Korea stocks plenty of climbs throughout its mountainous land. Head to Gangwon-do for the big mountains and the best autumn scenery. No need to worry about refueling on your way either, as the amount of convenience stores throughout the country is baffling.

Although the infrastructure for cycling in Korea isn’t up to par with, say, the Netherlands, it is growing and for the scenery alone it’s worth creating that eight-car trail behind you. Who knows, it might just make a driver slow down and enjoy the view enough to pick up cycling as well!

READY TO RACEThere are expat-organized tours that are regularly posted on

Facebook groups like Han River Riders and Cycling in Korea, but Korean organized races seem to be scarce for foreigners. One massive ride coming up is the Korea Randonneurs’ event, a 1000 km Seoul-Busan-Seoul tour in October (korea-randonneurs.blog-spot.com).

Korea’s cycling community is always welcoming (and excep-tionally helpful), so gear up, clip in, and get pedalling!

Cycling Resources Online

Han River RidersSeoul Synergy - Multisports TalkCycling in Korea

If you’re starting out: adventurecycling.org/features/buyersguide.cfmTo improve your riding: road-bike.co.ukA great place to post cycling questions: bikeforums.net/forum.php

user.chollian.net/~boonstrabrakingboundaries.org

downtheroad.org

Jessica Perlaza

T. 02. 792. 2296Of!ce Hour

M-F: 8a~9p Sat: 8a~5pwww.nywc.co.kr

International Health Insurance Bene!t.

Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care

Live without PAIN

Facial Treatment Conscious Care e-Iridology Yoga

Chiropractic

Medical Pilates (Rehabilitation) Therapeutic Massage

Save up to 25% when you sign up for Group Pilates Classes (Thru Aug 31)


Let us lead the way...we invite you toexperience the Millennium Seoul Hilton

Book the experience of a lifetime at millenniumseoulhilton.co.kr

Meat, heat, and noodles are all optional with this flexible dish, making it ideal for the picky cook.

O f all the Korean dishes I have tried, I really thought this would be the one to go global. With its simple prepara-tion, unique noodles and flexibility of ingredients, jap-

chae makes a great “Asian” dish for Westerners. The famous Chi-nese Chef Ken Hom did an almost identical dish while visiting us here last year on his Noodle Road odyssey.

Japchae, meaning mixed vegetables, is basically a dish of glass noodles or dangmyeon (당면) mixed with shiitake mushrooms, wood ear mushrooms, finely chopped beef, assorted thinly sliced vegetables and yangnyeomjang sauce (a seasoned and sweetened soy sauce). The chopped beef can also be left out to keep it vege-tarian. What sets it apart from similar dishes is that it’s not all stir-fried together as you would expect but rather tossed together once all the ingredients have been cooked and seasoned separately. Both fresh and dried mushrooms are used for japchae, though I find that the rehydrated dried variety have a much stronger flavor overall. I like to sneak a sliced red chili into the proceedings as I enjoy the slight burn it adds.

The noodles that are used for this dish are slightly different in

that they are made from sweet potato starch. They only need to be soaked for about 20 minutes before use rather than traditional boiling. A drop of vinegar may be added to the water to stop the strands from sticking to each other. There is another camp that advocates boiling or quickly stir-frying the noodles, but I have found that this is purely a personal choice.

The sauce that’s generally used on japchae is one of my favor-ite multi-purpose sauces here in Korea. It’s made by mixing soy sauce, sesame oil, minced ginger, chopped spring onions, minced garlic, salt, pepper and toasted sesame seeds. Some people add rice wine which gives it a nice tangy taste. In addition to japchae, this sauce is great with tofu and seared tuna.

Japchae prepared without the added noodles, as it was origi-nally made, is a common namul banchan or side dish and crops up everywhere, generally served cold. Japchae-bap is another common variation and is essentially the japchae served over or with steamed white rice. As I find the mix of noodles and rice a little odd I would recommend this with just the beef and vegeta-bles, but then again dining is all about personal preferences.

So if you like the sound of japchae and believe the stories claim-ing that eating noodles makes you live longer, what other motiva-tion do you need to give this gem of Korean cuisine a try?

Glass Noodles and Mixed Veggies

WORDS BY CIAR AN HICKEY, E XECUTIVE CHEF OF THE W SEOUL WALKERHILL

N E T I Z E N ’ S P I C K SJIMIWON 지미원People still remember this restaurant for the chef’s preparation of royal cuisine on the 2003 Korean TV series Dae Jang Geum. Guests are served japchae in the middle of a full-course Korean meal once reserved for the kings of the Joseon Dynasty. You’ll need to look majestic to enjoy the delicacies dished out onto traditional brass

Gunsan, Jeollabuk-do. 063-463-3900

SURYEON 수련Come here to experience veggie-enriched japchae on big dark ceramic plates decorated with red flowers. Your pleasure is doubled by the classy atmosphere of this

1086 Jung 3-dong, Bucheon-si, Gyeonggi-do. 032-329-9100

JIJIMI 지짐이This popular franchise is the ideal place for those in search of an inexpensive serving of japchae. Sprinkled with sesame seeds, this stir-fried favorite practically begs you to send down some soju after every mouthful. Find it all over

ggmi.co.kr

Japchae 잡채

A TASTE OF KOREA

Let us lead the way...we invite you toexperience the Millennium Seoul Hilton

Book the experience of a lifetime at millenniumseoulhilton.co.kr


Some gourmet restaurants in Seoul charge an arm and a leg for dinner, but Executive Chef Darren Vaughan insists that you don’t need a mortgage to eat at The Spice.

S ince May last year Executive Chef Darren Vaughan has been bring-ing his own touch of magic to The

Spice restaurant near Hangangjin Station in Hannam-dong. He started out in Melbourne, Australia, finished his chef’s apprenticeship and then f lew to London where he stayed for five years. It was in the kitchens of Jean-Christophe Novelli, Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsey that he honed his craft, learning how to run a kitchen. He remem-bers Ramsey being able to spot any mistakes the staff would try to hide: he’d pick up on them every time.

After London, it was back to Australia, with stints at Lucio’s in Sydney and the award-winning Water’s Edge in Canberra, before heading to Dubai where he met Korea’s own Edward Kwon. They arrived at the same time at the same hotel, battled through the work together and developed a good relationship in and out of the kitchen. Last year while relaxing on Bondai Beach, Vaughan got a call from Kwon asking him to come to Korea; he was expecting something like Malaysia, Thailand or China, but found himself in a very different country with its own distinctive cuisine.

Vaughan admits he was surprised at first by so much spice and sourness in Korean food, but after a couple of months he learned to love it and now when he goes out to eat he often heads to Korean restaurants, where the portions are generous and the prices are affordable. Chef Vaughan admits that some-times he’d steal off his friend’s plate in Aus-tralia to get a taste, so the Korean style of sharing dishes is fantastic for him.

He has recently discovered North Korean dumplings and also has a love of naengmyeon (냉면, cold noodles). His passion for Korean food has led him to discover some interesting regional produce which he wants to incor-porate into The Spice’s menu. He scours the markets every month for seasonal supplies and takes hundreds of photos for his records.

While the produce is Korean, Vaughan wants to introduce more Western cooking techniques to his diners, for example slow braising, sous-vide, confit and butter poach-ing. He allows visitors to create their own three-course set menus at The Spice with a price that won’t break the bank. You can bring a large appetite with you, but you still won’t need to take out a mortgage to eat at The Spice.

IN THE KITCHEN

The Spice TradeChef Darren Vaughan’s Warm Scallop Salad with Chorizo, Cauliflower, Eggplant and Tomato Sauce

DIRECTIONS

1 Turn oven on to 150 deg. Wash eggplants and cut into 2cm rounds, dress with olive oil, salt/pepper and mixed herbs and bake for 20 min until soft and tender. Reserve.

2 Cut chorizo into thin rounds and pan fry on low heat with a little olive oil till slightly crisp. 4 slices per person will be enough.

3 Cut cauliflower into small flowerets and sauté in a pan with some butter until golden and tender. Reserve.

4 Crush the cherry tomatoes with a blender and pass through a strainer, reduce the liquid by half, add balsamic vinegar, butter and season. Keep warm.

5 Wash scallops in cold water removing any excess skirt, cut away the scallop muscle in the curl of the scallop, and slice the scallop into 2 pieces. 3 slices should be enough per person.

6 Season scallops with salt and pepper and sear scallops in a hot pan. Be careful not to overcook: 1 minute should be enough.

7 Place eggplant on the plate first. Lean scallops against the eggplant and dress with tomato sauce, add 1 piece of chorizo per scallop, and sprinkle the plate with the cauliflower. Arrange mixed leaves on the plate and serve.

INGREDIENTS

Eggplants 4 Butter 50g Salt/pepper Chorizo sausage Mixed herbs 5g Cauliflower, 1/2 head Korean scallops, 1 per person Cherry tomatoes 200g

Mixed salad leaves 100g Balsamic vinegar 5 ml

WORDS AND SHOTS BY PAUL MAT THEWS

There are an estimated 20,000 to 200,000 North Korean refugees currently hiding in China. If they are found by the Chinese government they are sent back to North Korea, where they face torture, inhumane labor camps, forced abortions and sometimes execution. Justice for North Korea tries to help these refugees by providing funding for shelters and missions to help them reach safety. A typical journey is over 2000 miles and starts at around a thousand dollars. We need your help to continue our work. Your ten dollars can help a refugee get 20 miles closer to freedom.

Give her the gift of freedom

www.justice4nk.org/en/help

Ad space donated by 10 Magazine

DINE & DRINK


10 OJANG-DONG HAMHEUNG NAENGMYEON 오장동 함흥냉면The Ojang-dong neighborhood is known for two things: cheap furniture and naengmyeon. So after you are done picking up new kitchen chairs, drop in for a hearty bowl of Hamheung-style noodles. It’s my rule of thumb that the more old people you see in a restaurant, the better the naengmyeon. This place is no exception. The yuksu, meat broth tea, is also very nice here. The difference between a mediocre nyaengmyeon and a great nyaengmyeon lies in the yuksu. W8,000. Euljiro 4-ga Stn. (line 2 & 5, ex. 8). 90-10 Ojang-dong Jung-gu, Seoul. 02-2267-9500

9 HWAPYEONGDONG NOODLE KING 화평동 왕냉면

Contributed by Jeonju Editor Andy ClayThis tiny restaurant about five minutes from Jeonju’s bus ter-minals may not look like much, but the owner sure knows her naengmyeon. W6,000 gets you a huge bowl overflowing with firm buckwheat noodles, half an egg, fresh cucumber and thinly sliced radish kimchi, all soaked in a perfectly tangy, slightly salty iced broth. Add a spoonful of piquant gochujang, and you have noodle perfection, Jeolla-style. 470-9 Geumam-dong, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do. 063-271-4799

8 MAPO EULMILDAE 마포 을밀대The night I dropped by here there were a surprisingly large number of young people digging into their bowls of naengmyeon. Fortu-nately, I brought along my friend’s 70-year old mother for the senior citizen perspective. Mamma Kim liked the extra thick Pyongyang-style noodles. The broth is a bit bland, but presumably healthy thanks to its mixture of ten vegetables and won’t leave you feeling like you just drank a steak. This lets you get creative with the condiments. I added globs of spicy mustard, Mamma Kim added sugar. To each their own. W9,000. Daeheung Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). 147-6 Yeomni-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. 02-717-1922

7 HAMGYEONG MYEONOK 함경면옥

Contributed by Busan Editor Bryce WeibleyThe Dongnae area of Busan has a reputation for delicious, unadulterated Korean food, and this popular noodle house is no exception. A refreshing bowl of mul naengmyeon or bibim naengmyeon runs at W7,000 and comes with all the condi-ments to spice things up. Com-plimentary beef broth served in a teapot is a nice touch. Bring some company because the spacious interior and balcony can accommodate nearly 200 noodle-slurping patrons. Suan Stn. (line 4, ex. 1). 433-10 Myeongryun-dong, Dongnae-gu, Busan. 051-556-2020

A Dish Best Served Cold The Top 10 Bowls of Naengmyeon

T here are two dishes that are best served cold. One is revenge and the other is naengmyeon. But while the former could land you in jail, the latter will just set you back several bucks. Mul, or water, naengmyeon is a North Korean style of noodles submerged in an icy broth. There’s also

bibim, or mixed, naengmyeon, which substitutes a dollop of red pepper sauce for broth. There are two main variations on the noodles. Pyongyang-style naengmyeon is made from buckwheat, while Hamheung-style is made from potato or sweet potato starch.

The restaurants in Seoul were selected from foodie blogs, the recommendations of trusted friends and from my own previous dining experiences, while the out-of-town reviews were provided by guest contributors.

WORDS BY JASON STROTHER

Shots by Julia Mellor

20


6 HAMHEUNG NAENGMYEON (Mapo) 함흥냉면A lot of naengmyeon places aren’t too creative with their names, but at least you know what you’re getting. Hidden amongst the high-rise apart-ments is this tiny restaurant about a 15-minute walk from the station. It serves a very satisfying bowl of noodles and is quite popular with the locals. You might enjoy the large hard-boiled egg too, unless you’re ovaphobic like me and always give it away to a friend. W7,000. Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 4). 127-2 Wonhono 4-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. 02-719-1290

5 OJANG-DONG HEUNGNAMJIP 오장동 흥남집The first time I tried out their Hamheung naengmyeon it was the dead of winter. Despite the icy cold broth this dish warmed me up. I later learned that was due to a process called homeostasis. Don’t know what that means? Then look it up. Anyway, lots of ajumma perms and shoe polish-black hair here. After your meal, head back out to the furniture market to pick up a bookshelf for your archive of old issues of 10 Magazine. W8,000. Euljiro 4-ga Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex. 8). 101-7 Ojang-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul. 02-2266-0735

4 PYEONGNAEOK 평래옥If you come here during lunch or dinner time, you can expect to stand in line outside for up to 10 minutes like I did. For three generations this place has served Pyongyang-style naengmyeon since 1950 after its originators fled to Seoul from North Korea. The entire menu here in fact features cuisine from above the 38th parallel. But what makes this restaurant stand out is actually their chicken, which is served as a refillable side dish. W8,000. Euljiro 3-ga Stn. (lines 2 & 3, ex. 11). 18-1 Jeo-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul. 02-2267-5892

3 JINGOGAE 진고개If you find yourself in the Chun-gmuro area and in the need for naengmyeon, you should go straight for Jin Go Gae. According to the placemats, it’s been around since 1963 and I doubt very much has changed, including the interior, since then. But forget your scis-sors: you’ll need a katana to slice through these noodles. That’s because they’re made from a com-bination of buckwheat and potato starch, giving them an extra chewy texture. And a generous portion of diced pear gives the broth a refreshingly sweet taste. W8,000. Chungmuro Station (lines 3 & 4, ex. 6). 30-16 Chungmuro 3-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul. 02-2267-0955

2 HAMHEUNG NAENGMYEON (Yeondeungpo) 함흥냉면I had always considered myself as a Pyongyang-style type of guy. But after eating here, I began to question everything I knew about naengmyeon. The fantastic Hamheung noodles in a spicy broth made me go back for more yuksu. This restaurant prides itself on its hoe naengmyeon, which includes raw skate. And while you’re there, order a side of kimchi mandu, which are the size of tennis balls. You will not be disappointed. W8,000. Yeongdeungpo Stn. (line 1, ex. 5). 7-32 Yeongdeungpo-dong 3-ga, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul. 02-2678-2722

1 URAEOK 우래옥This Pyongyang-style naeng-myeon would make Kim Jong-il consider defecting. The Jang family has run Uraeok since the late 1940s and is perhaps the granddaddy of all naengmyeon restaurants in Seoul. The décor was probably considered opulent a few decades ago, but today just looks retro, which I think benefits the overall atmosphere here. It’s no coincidence that places that double as barbecue houses tend to serve the best naengmyeon. The savory broth, a mouthwatering cut of meat and the chewy buckwheat noodles all add up to make this a true gustatory delight. W10,000. Euljiro 4-ga Stn. (lines 2 & 5, ex. 4). 118-1 Jugyo-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul. 02-2265-0151


From top: Bird and Hanok, Hanji (Traditional Korean paper) for sale, Next page: Jeonju Hanok Village Rock

THERE’S NO PLACELIKE HANOKExperiencing Traditional Culture in Korea’s Historic Hanok Villages

Try to picture Korea with no high-rise buildings. Close your eyes and imagine what it might have been like in a time before Lotte and K-pop. It’s not so easy, is it? In the past half-century, a roaring economy has thoroughly transformed this country. Young Koreans now enjoy a standard of living

their grandparents would never have dreamed of. And yet, despite the myriad advances brought through modernization, there remains a sentimental longing to know about the old way of life. We can’t visit the past, but we can experience Korea’s living history in the handful of traditional hanok villages around the country.

Decades of rapid development have seen many hanok torn down to make way for modern structures. Although hanok remain scattered around the countryside, only a few entire villages remain. Preserved for cultural and historical reasons, these villages now provide a space for all things traditional. Any hanok visit would be worthwhile, though in this article we’ll delve a little deeper into my two personal favorites: the Jeonju Hanok Village and the Hahoe Folk Village in Andong.

WORDS AND SHOTS BY BRYCE WEIBLEY

22

JEONJU HANOK VILLAGEJeonju, the capital of North Jeolla province, likes to bill itself

as “the most Korean city in Korea,” and I wouldn’t argue with that claim. Situated at the juncture of the fertile Honam plain and the Sobaek mountain range, this mid-sized city is known as the origin of the Joseon Dynasty, as it is the ancestral home of the Yi royal family. Jeonju is also regarded as the culinary capital of Korea and the home of pansori folk music.

The Jeonju Hanok Village is nestled between mountains, river, and the city center. With over 800 hanok buildings, Jeonju’s is the largest of the hanok villages. Hanok guesthouses, cultural muse-ums, tea houses, cutesy cafes, artisan workshops, and art gal-leries all constitute the fabric of this urban hanok village. At its center lies Gyeonggijeon, the royal Joseon residence which can be entered freely. In the king’s quarters, one can learn about the Jeonju Yi royal clan, whose famous lineage includes King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, as well as King Sejong, who is credited with introducing the Korean alphabet hangul.

While exploring the hanok village, you can enjoy the best food that Jeonju has to offer. The local cuisine is fresh and delicious, and nothing beats the signature dish Jeonju bibimbap, which con-sists of various sautéed vegetables, meat, an egg, and gochujang (red pepper paste) served in a bowl over rice. Groups can expe-rience cooking the famed dish at the Jeonju Traditional Culture Center (advanced booking required, 052-280-7030).

Another highlight of the Jeonju Hanok Village is enjoying the sounds of traditional instruments. Performances of all kinds take place during festivals and many weekends during the warm sea-sons. The local specialty is pansori, or traditional folk songs. The last time I visited, I found myself drinking free makgeolli with jolly pensioners until 3 am at an outdoor pansori concert. For something a little more contemporary, check out local daegum (wooden flute) musician Lee Chang-Seon whose band blends tra-ditional styles with flowing jazz.

Jeonju is also the perfect place for the ultimate hanok village experience, a hanok stay. As they are quite popular, making a reservation weeks in advance is highly recommended. The most foreigner-friendly hanok guesthouse is the Jeonju Traditional Life Center, which has English-speaking employees and can be reserved online in English. Here, you can enjoy the traditional musical performances held on Saturday evenings, chop your own firewood for real ondol heating in winter, or just relax in the quiet courtyard. Other notable hanok guesthouses in the village include Hankindang, reputed to be the oldest hanok in Jeonju, and Seung-gwangjae, owned by Yi Seok, a descendant of the Jeonju Yi clan.

GETTING THERE Take a taxi from the Jeonju train station or bus terminal to “Jeonju Hanok Maeul” (전주한옥마을) or “Gyeonggijeon” (경기전).


24

HANOK STAYS

From left: Hahoe hanok porch, Hahoe mask performance Bull’s Balls, stamping clay at Beonnam House, Next page: Hahoe Village thatched-roof hanok

HAHOE FOLK VILLAGEThe Hahoe Folk Village is an exceptionally well-preserved

hanok village located along a curve in the Nakdong River in rural North Gyeongsang Province outside the city of Andong. Many of the hanok are still homes to descendants of the original fami-lies. Handsome giwajip (tiled houses of nobles) coexist with the chogajip (thatched-roof houses of commoners). Andong itself is well-known as a traditional city as well as the venue of the annual Andong International Mask Dance Festival in September, but Hahoe is the real gem. High profile visitors here including Queen Elizabeth II and George W. Bush and its addition to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2010 reflect Hahoe’s importance.

The village is famous for the Byeolsingut Mask Dance Play. For hundreds of years, local performers have exhibited these iconic masks and acted out humorous stories about village life. Free performances are held in the village at 3 pm every Sunday (March through December) as well as Saturdays and Wednesdays (May through December).

The folk play yard offers visitors a chance to try their skills at folk games like tuho, which involves throwing bamboo sticks into a narrow can. Also look for geune (riding on a super-sized swing set), jegichagi (similar to hackeysack) and neolttwigi (a form of see-saw on which the players try to jump and launch each other in the air). Be forewarned: Korean folk games are surprisingly addictive.

Come meal time, savor the mouthwatering local delight, Andong jjimdalk. This dynamic dish of chicken, vegetables, and

SEOULBukchon Guesthouse W60,000 - W70,000.

bukchon72.com (English) 02-743-8530 (English)

Manaedang W70,000 - W80,000. manaedang.com (English) 010-5334-4857 (English)

Seoul Hanok Guesthouse W60,000 - W220,000. seoul110.com (English) 02-745-0057 (English)

Tea Guesthouse W90,000 - W100,000. teaguesthouse.com (English) 02-3675-9877 (English)

JEOLL A PROV INCEGokjeonje Gurye-gun W120,000 -

W150,000. gokjeonjae.com (Korean) 019-625-8444 (English)

Sssangsanje Gurye-gun W60,000 - W150,000. ssangsanje.com (Korean) 011-635-7115 (English)

Baek-yeonjae Haenam-gun W70,000. brj.kr (English) 010-4933-8686 (English)

Hakindang Jeonju W60,000 - W400,000. cafe.naver.com/hakindang (Korean) 063-284-9929 (English)

Jeonju Hanok Living Experience Center Jeonju W70,000 - W130,000. jjhanok.com (Korean) 063-287-6300 (English)

Seunggwangjae Jeonju W50,000. 063-283-0071 (Korean)

Yangsajae Jeonju W50,000. jeonjutour.co.kr (Korean) 063-282-4959 (English)

NORTH GY EONGSA NG PROV INCEBeonnam House Andong W50,000 -

W100,000. home.invil.org/bunnam (Korean) 054-852-8550 (Korean)

Bukchon House Andong W200,000. [email protected] (English) 054-853-2110 (English)

Gohyang-ui-poom Andong W50,000 - W100,000. hahoe1.kr (Korean) 054-853-8891 (English)

Jirye Art Village Andong W50,000. jirye.com (English) 054-852-1913 (English)

Suaedang Andong W70,000. http://suaedang.co.kr (Korean) 054-822-6661 (English)

Sarangchae (Hanok-Hostel fusion) Gyeongju W40,000 - W50,000. kjstay.com (English) 054-773-4868 (English)


noodles simmered in a tangy soy-based sauce seems to only come in family size (around W25,000) so bring some friends and an appetite! It normally has a kick but can be made non-spicy by asking, “An maep-ge hae juseyo” (안 맵게 해주세요).

There is an abundance of hanok guesthouses in the Hahoe Folk Village, though they’re commonly referred to as minbak. For a splurge, try Bukchon House, whose owner offers an English tour of the historic property to guests (double rooms W200,000). Alternatively, Beonnam House offers reasonable room rates and several ceramic-making courses (double rooms W50,000; ceramic courses W10,000-W100,000). A reservation is always a good idea but, barring festival times, guest rooms are usually available.

GETTING THERE You can reach Hahoe Folk Village by bus 46 (40 minutes, 8 times a day), available across the street from the Andong Train Station. A taxi from the Intercity Bus Terminal takes 30 minutes.

10 AWESOME HANOK EXPERIENCESAside from looking at the pretty buildings, what exactly can you do at a hanok village? Plenty, it turns out. 10 Appreciate the Architecture You’ve got to start by taking in the

beauty of the iconic hanok architecture.9 Play Folk Games Try your skills at folk games that amused

Koreans for centuries before video games arrived.8 Get Crafty From pottery to bibimbap, all sorts of hands-on

programs exist to initiate visitors to various aspects of traditional culture.

7 Shop for Handicrafts The lovely products made by local artisans make for some of the best shopping in Korea.

6 Dine on Traditional Cuisine Try dishes the locals have perfected over the generations like Jeonju bibimbap and Andong jjimdalk as well as numerous wines and liquors.

5 Watch Artistic Performances In addition to some of the best traditional Korean performances around, keep an eye out for jazz, world music, dance troupes, and street buskers.

4 Meet the Locals While their English proficiency can be hit-or-miss, locals will be honored that you’re interested in their traditional culture.

3 Learn the History Becoming familiar with the history of the hanok village will make your visit more meaningful.

2 Take a Stroll Meander the quiet alleys and take pleasure in forgetting what century you’re in.

1 Stay in a Hanok The ultimate hanok experience. The ambience more than makes up for the lack of Western-style beds. See the listings on the previous page for available hanok stays.


From left, Robert Fouser, Philippe Tirault and Peter Bartholomew.

Shot by Dylan Goldby

THE HANOK DEFENDERS

Surprisingly, some of the most vocal advocates of preserving Korea’s traditional buildings are not Koreans but foreigners living in Korean.

WORDS BY ROBERT NEFF

26


S eoul, which has been the capital of Korea since 1394, is an ancient city. It is also a vibrant city of constant change, and much of the old city has been lost through

wars, disasters, arson, neglect and modernization. It is no longer a city of tens of thousands of small thatched and tiled hanok (traditional homes) surrounding magnificent palaces, but a city

remnants of Korea’s past.Palaces, gates, important personalities’ homes and temples

have been preserved while other landmarks, such as the city walls are being repaired or rebuilt. Even an entire stream (the Cheon-gyecheon downtown) has been resurrected. But some people feel not enough is being saved; they argue that the hanok should also be preserved as part of Korea’s heritage.

Up until the 1970s there were about 800,000 hanok in Seoul; today there are less than 5,000 and that number is rapidly decreasing. It may surprise many people to know that four of the most vocal and passionate advocates for the preservation of the hanok are long-term foreign residents. Peter Bartholomew, Rob-ert Fouser, David Kilburn and Philippe Tirault all own hanok and have played a key role in raising awareness about the rapid disap-pearance of Seoul’s hanok.

Understandably, their actions have been met with mixed responses. Bartholomew feels that his efforts have been taken seriously not only by government officials but by the general public as well. “The overwhelming reaction [has been] positive/supportive,” declared Bartholomew.

Kilburn, on the other hand, insists that “officialdom sees these efforts simply as an annoyance by misguided foolish people” and that “there is no interest whatsoever in discussing or recognizing the issues raised.” Kilburn’s comments echo a comment made by a senior city official who declared that foreigners were too con-cerned with protecting old Korean buildings and should instead concentrate on the many modern improvements made in the city such as the efficient subway system, conference halls and, strangely enough, the fine French and Italian restaurants.

City officials are not the only ones perplexed and sometimes agitated by these hanok defenders’ actions. Some of Kilburn’s neighbors see him as a self-righteous interloper and Kilburn claims to have been physically assaulted a couple of years ago for his convictions. Despite the scorn that Kilburn and his wife have endured from some of their neighbors, others see them as heroes. Some have gone so far as to describe Kilburn as more Korean than native Koreans. “From time to time, ordinary Koreans stop me in the streets to thank me for my efforts, and to wish me well,” relates Kilburn. “Some also travel from elsewhere in Korea and visit us to do the same.”

Kilburn even made 50 videos of interviews he did with ordi-nary people asking them their views on whether or not the hanok should be preserved. “The people voted for preservation.”

Dav

id K

ilbur

n an

d hi

s ha

nok

Sho

t by

An

Hye

ong-

jun

WHY ARE SO MANY HANOK DISAPPEARING?

But with so many people voting for preservation, why are the hanok disappearing? Many associate the loss of Seoul’s hanok with former President Park Chung-hee and his drive to modern-ize Korea. Bartholomew attributes it to “developing country syndrome” and feels that many “Koreans view old buildings as negative assets, wasting land and inappropriate for a country that is trying to develop into a modern nation.”

But it isn’t that simple. David Kilburn agrees that “Park Chung-hee’s revulsion at thatched roofs played a part,” but explains that more detrimental was “the need to house thousands of home-less people as quickly as possible” following the Korean War when so many buildings were severely damaged.

Phillipe Tirault points out that most of the hanok were built after the 1920s so “they are not regarded as very old” and they “remind Koreans of a time when Korea was poor.” In an interview with the Christian Science Monitor, Kilburn echoed that sentiment: “The problem in Korea is that so many people no longer feel a strong relationship with their heritage or value it highly. This, in turn, leads to neglect, which inevitably becomes a pathway to decay and destruction.” 1

Viewed as unsightly or dilapidated, they are torn down and, in the best-case scenario, are rebuilt as two- or three-story buildings that retain some of the flavor of the original hanok but are essen-tially modern buildings. More often than not, they are replaced with high-rises.

THE ECONOMICS OF REBUILDING AND RENOVATING

Economics also play a key role in the increasing loss of the hanok. Undoubtedly, a lot of people living in apartments, swayed by emotional sentiment and nostalgia, argue that preserving hanok is a good idea, but would they feel this way if they owned one?

There is very little incentive to renovate. According to Bartho-lomew, once a low-rise or medium-rise building is built, it begins depreciating so that after twenty years it has no financial value—only the land does. Therefore, it does not pay to remodel or main-tain old homes, and so hanok are often knocked down and then

rebuilt into hanok-like homes, sometimes two- or three-stories tall. Obviously, multi-story buildings bring in a much greater income than a small single-story building.

As architect and hanok owner Hwang Doo-jin told the New York Times, “people here would willingly destroy these houses to build up, higher and higher, to increase their floor space and get higher rents.” 2

Economic reasons are not the only threat to hanok. Plagued with the reputation of being uncomfortable due to their draftiness and lack of modern conveniences, many people cannot imagine living in a hanok. To a degree, these are legitimate problems, but ones that can be solved. In fact, most people end up modernizing their hanok by renovating their kitchens, bathrooms, laundry and

heating facilities in order to provide “creature comforts.”

Bartholomew suggests that a lot of foreigners might welcome the opportu-nity of living in renovated hanok. “Once you modernize the heating, bathroom, kitchen and laundry facilities there is no real discomfort. It is a different style of living from a concrete apartment, but

not necessarily less ‘comfortable.’ A lot of the so-called inconve-niences are exactly the same for any single-family residence, be it hanok, brick, concrete or wooden Western-style.” Along with Bartholomew, Kilburn, Fouser and Tirault all live in renovated hanok with modern amenities such as central heating, satellite TV and broadband internet.

Part of the controversy, however, centers on how much renova-tion is too much. Some people advocate that the building should be left in its original state but Tirault disagrees. “Keeping hanok the way they were in the past is condemning them as nobody wants to live without what is considered normal comforts.” Hwang, the architect, also insists that sacrifices have to be made: “You can’t preserve everything on every level. That kind of sym-bolism doesn’t work for us anymore in Korea.” 3

WHAT IS IT LIKE TO LIVE IN A HANOK?Tirault describes his hanok as “a very private and discrete

place… completely insulated from the noises and disturbances of the modern city.” Fouser says that “the natural materials create a nicer, healthier feeling environment compared to apartments” and adds that his “courtyard gives a sense of openness—light and air flowing into the living space—that few apartments can match.”

Above: New apartments under construction in Seoul.

Right: Robert Fouser’s hanok in Hyehwa-dong

Up until the 1970s there were about 800,000 hanok in Seoul; today there are less than 5,000 and that number is rapidly decreasing.


28

Valid through August 31st, 2011

Kilburn’s hanok was built in 1929 on land once owned by the family of Queen Min. It is a place with a strong sense of history and it seems somewhat fitting that his answer is poetic:

“I particularly enjoy listening to the wind in the leaves of our maple tree, the tinkling of the wind chimes in the garden, the sight and sound of the magpie that flies down from the roof to drink from the fish tank. I like stepping directly out of my study to prune the roses, and trim the vines. In the evening, I enjoy the shadows fading into twilight while the candles in the garden come to life. The constant interplay of light and shadow on the woodwork and paper windows is an endless source of fascination. The proximity to a natural world and the surrounding of natural materials, mainly wood and paper bring a sense of peace that concrete cannot create. To an apartment dweller, all these experi-ences may represent inconvenience or discomfort, but to me they do not.”

Despite the positive responses, Tirault cautions that living in a hanok is not for everyone. While there “is good harmony in the size of the rooms” they are, nonetheless, small, and hanok gener-ally do not have parking or garages. “It should fit your life style,” he cautions.

NO EASY ANSWERSThe hanok issue is a complicated one filled with contradictions

and ironies. Several years ago, I had a conversation with Bartho-lomew concerning the destruction of Japanese-built buildings in Seoul. When I pointed out that it seemed a paradox to destroy a historical remnant, regardless of who built it, in order to restore a more cherished past, he merely shook his head and reminded me that all things change and not everything can be saved.

Kilburn deplores the Korean government for pursuing “policies that are leading to the disappearance of hanok in Korea while simultaneously promoting their merits overseas as part of a new Hallyu [Korean wave].”

But what about the owners of these hanok? Don’t they have the right to sell or modify their property however they like—even if it does mean that a part of history is lost forever?

What You Can Do to Protect the HanokSome readers may be convinced that hanok are worth preserving but aren’t quite sure exactly how they can get involved. The people we interviewed provide some concrete advice for those interested in the issue. Bartholomew is convinced that more articles (in Korean) have to be published in order to inform the Korean public of the importance of preserving this aspect of Korea’s past. Kilburn also emphasizes informing the public and encourages people to directly contact him at his site, kahoidong.com. Fouser suggests that people “buy or rent a hanok to help show that they are appreciated and, if you buy, to prevent them from being destroyed.”

1 “The fading remnants of South Korea’s traditional buildings,” Christian Science Monitor, February 15, 2011.

2,3 Mark McDonald “Saving a Korean District,” New York Times, December 13, 2010.


Live Canadian Lobsters Check In to Courtyard MarriottCourtyard by Marriott SeoulThe MoMo Café has flown in fresh, live lobsters for a tribute to the “king of seafood.” Deliciously suc-culent, high in protein, and low in fat, lobsters make a great meal for any diet. There are two sets offered: set A starts with a lobster spring roll and then sweet corn and lobster, followed by a roasted lobster with truffle butter entrée (90,000++) and set B kicks off with lobster salad followed by a spicy lobster bisque (W110,000++). The menu runs through August 31st. courtyardseoul.com 02-2638-3001

Chill Out with Red Bean Ice SherbetFraser Place Central SeoulThe 2nd floor Resident’s Lounge has a new summer special to help you escape the sweltering heat! This new red bean ice sherbet is good for boosting your energy after a tiring day. It offers the fantastic taste of chilled red beans you’ve been crav-ing. Imagine the harmony of red beans, green tea ice cream, milk and rice cake with shaved ice. This special offer is avail-able until the end of August. W8,000. fraserplace.co.kr 02-2220-8888

When Convenience Store Ice Cream Just Doesn’t Cut ItOakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul

For those who desire to stay away from the scorching hot weather and enjoy a special treat, The Residents’ Lounge at the Oak-wood Premier Coex Center Seoul is offering an ice cream promotion through the end of August. Various types of specially made ice cream will be served, including a banana split with four different flavors of ice cream, ice cream with seasonal fresh fruits com-bined with lime juice, an ice cream pancake complemented by maple syrup, and much more. W12,000++ - W17,000++. oakwoodpremier.co.kr 02-3466-7000

French-Style Weekend BrunchGrand InterContinental Seoul ParnasThe contemporary French restaurant Table 34 at the Grand InterContinen-tal Seoul Parnas is presenting the French-style weekend brunch “Ô Brunch” from 11 am to 2:30 pm on weekends and national holidays. Ô Brunch will be featured on the highest floor of the hotel using only the finest ingredients to provide the ultimate brunch experience. It will be served by the chef right at the table with an explanation of the three main courses. W70,000++ - W75,000++. seoul.intercontinental.com 02-559-7777

Hot Summer Package Attracts VacationersNovotel Ambassador BusanThe Novotel Ambassador Busan is offering the Hot Summer Package through the end of August for Haeundae holidaymakers. The package not only provides various products such as a Clinique travel kit and an Instyle Summer Book with Hanskin BB sample kit, but also access to the hotel’s facilities including the fitness center and swimming pool. W180,000++. novotelbusan.com 051-743-1234

Staying Cool Amid the Urban Jungle W Seoul - WalkerhillFor those who wish to get away from the extremely hot weather, W Seoul – Walkerhill offers several summer pack-ages that will allow you to enjoy a cool night out. With the Stay Cool package, take advantage of a night’s stay in a Wonderful Botanical Room, breakfast tickets for 2 people, manicure, 2 cocktails at the WooBar and access to the Water Zone. You can also get discounts at Away Spa, Style Lab, Kitchen and Namu. W323,000++. walkerhill.com 02-465-2222


New Lunch Box Delight at AkasakaGrand Hyatt SeoulKnown for its premium quality, authen-tic taste and fresh ingredients, Akasaka will be preparing lunch boxes filled with seasonal delicacies certain to restore your summer appetite. Skillfully prepared by Chef Keiichi Watanabe, it starts off with various appetizers and then moves on to fresh tuna, raw fish, and assorted tempura, followed by broiled fish and braised beef with Japanese potatoes. Experience the del-icate world of an authentic Japanese lunch box. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-799-8888

EDIT ED BY DAV I D CA R RU T H A N D SU N K Y U NG LEE

Trevi Lounge Summer Drink Special Renaissance Seoul Hotel The Renaissance Seoul Hotel’s Trevi Lounge offers a selection of delightfully cool summer fruit smoothies and cocktails for you to enjoy during the hot summer season (through August 31st). Using fresh sea-sonal fruits, they offer delight-ful drinks such as the cool and smooth mango smoothie, the sweet and tart wild berry smoothie and the divine vanilla and pineapple smoothie for those with a sweet tooth. W17,500++ - W19,000++. renaissanceseoul.com 02-2222-8627

Library Stocked with Mojito Fans’ Favorite SubjectYeouido Marriott Executive ApartmentsCaptain Rupina at the Park Cafe has studied up on the mojito and is now an expert in three seriously good varieties. Throughout August, guests can enjoy her Bacardi-based mas-terpieces in the hotel’s stylish library. Colorful mojitos mixed with crushed ice are the perfect drink for muggy summer days and nights, and the Library’s comfortable seating provides a great place to sit back and chill out with friends or that special someone. W12,000++. measeoul.com 02-2090-8050


+ = subject to 10% VAT, ++ = subject to 10% VAT and 10% service charge

Looking for something special this summer?More than 6 million people have chosen NANTA!Thrills, explosive sound, powerful performancesEnjoyment and laughter beyond your wildest dreams!We offer 20% massive discount this summer!

HONG DAE NANTA THEATREMon.-Sun. & Holidays 17:00, 20:00MYEONG DONG NANTA THEATREMon.-Sun. & Holidays 14:00, 17:00, 20:00GANGBUK JEONG DONG NANTA THEATREMon.-Sun. & Holidays 17:00, 20:00

*To qualify, reserve your tickets online. On the booking page, go to the “ticket type” section& click “Cool Summer Festival.” Proceed with your reservation and payment.*This discount applies for reservations of more than 2 tickets.

2011 NANTA THEATRESUPER SAVE FESTIVAL

1ST JULY – 31ST AUG

COOLS U M M E R

FESTIVAL

Booking & Info 02-739-8288 www.nanta.co.kr become a member for free and get a 10% discount every day

www.facebook.com/cookinnanta

New Bountiful Sunday Brunch Menu at JW’s GrillJW Marriott Seoul

JW’s Grill is offering a new brunch that is a smorgasbord of delight-ful choices from well-stocked counters and a rich selection of entrees. There are five counters: the Healthy Counter, which has fresh-squeezed juices and various salad options, the Seafood Coun-ter, which has sea bream, tuna and other sashimi, the Carving Coun-ter, which mainly serves sea bass and roasted tomahawk rib eye, the Dessert Counter and the Fruit Counter. 11 am - 1 pm, 1:30 pm - 3 pm, W69,000++ - W89,000++. jw-marriott.co.kr 02-6282-6282

AUGUST 2011

Citibank Korea Offers Special Summer Promotion at Novotel Ambassador Gangnam

The 12-Week Transformation Challenge

Budding Bards Reborn as Seoul Shakespeare Company

Daily Prizes for Visitors to Seoul Convention Bureau’s Website

Get the Cut of Your Dreams —For Free

If you’re a foodie, this summer is a good time to have a Citi Card. Through August 31st, Citibank Korea will be providing all Citi Card holders with discounts and special benefits at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. An additional 5% discount will be added to the exist-ing 10% offered during weekdays for all items at The Square, where you can enjoy a variety of world cuisine, and Shunmi, which serves traditional Japanese food with a dash of modernity. Plus, customers opting for the Summer Night in Orsay Package with Citi Cards will receive a free breakfast coupon for one at The Square. Three customers will also be drawn from those who use Citi Cards at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam during the event period to receive a meal coupon for two at The Square.For more details, please contact the Novotel Ambassa-dor Gangnam (02-531-6521).

Studio X Fitness in Seoul’s Itaewon-dong recently threw down the gauntlet to its members: be the biggest loser in the next 12 weeks and win an iPad. There were plenty of takers on the challenge, but the one who walked away with the iPad was Mark Savoie, who lost 18.7kg of fat and 13.3% body fat in 12 weeks. His stunning transformation is pictured here along with fellow contestant Becky Martin. Looking for your own transformation? Visit studio-x-fitness.com, or check out Studio X Fitness Seoul on Facebook.

Since the spring of 2010, Actors Without Barders has been bringing the work of William Shakespeare to Korea. With the recent production of Macbeth in the historic Changgo Theatre, they became the first expat theatre company to produce a full-length Shakespeare play in Seoul. Now, with a fresh team of board members and unconventional projects on the horizon, the troupe returns as the Seoul Shakespeare Company. SSC will be holding a launch party at Berlin in Itaewon on August 6th in sup-port of their next production, to be held on August 27th – 28th. For more information on SSC, find them on Face-book or email [email protected] and after (above)

This August, Seoul is showcasing its many attractions with the Seoul Sizzling Sweep-stakes, a promotion designed to give visitors a taste of what makes the Korean capital a complete convention city. The Seoul Convention Bureau’s official website will feature daily giveaways for different tourist attractions such as Lotte World. Two winners will each receive a prize for two

from the venue of the day. Busi-ness tourists and international visitors are eligible to participate in the promotion. miceseoul.com

Looking for a unique hair style? How about getting it done gratis? Give hair salon Marie & M three hours of your Sunday afternoon and it could happen to you. After a chat with the hair designer about what kind of cut would look best on you, your transformation begins. Since the process involves instruc-tion and a photo shoot, it may take some time. While you wait, just think about the chic style you can show off when you leave the salon. 02-512-3798

Expat News


32

AUGUST 2011 EDITED BY ANGELA LEE AND DAVID CAR RUTH

Oriental Doctor Raimund Royer Named Honorary Ambassador of KTO

Until recently, the Korea Tourism Organization primarily supported Western medical tourism. But now, the KTO plans to promote the integration of Western and Korean medicine. To represent this new transition, Dr. Raimund Royer, head of the international clinic at the Jaseng Center for Alternative Medicine and the first West-ern-Korean Oriental doctor, has been appointed as the honorary ambassador of the KTO. As a native of Austria, he is seen as the ideal representative through his active involvement as an Interna-tional Committee Board Member of the Association of Korean Ori-ental Medicine and the Korean Pharmacopuncture Institute.

N E W C O M E R SWhether you’re new here or a veteran of years, you can relate to these new arrivals to the peninsula.

With a big family of five (a wife and three daughters),

moved from the USA to Korea to take on his new position as the Pro-gram Manager at Motoro-la Solutions. This Ameri-can has previously resided in Kuwait and Alaska and is accustomed to adjusting to different environments. He has already taken a liking to the popular Korean dish— bibimbap. He looks for-ward to experiencing Korea by touring and taking sce-nic photographs of his new surroundings.

Sunil Veetil, Executive Vice President at HSBC Bank, is a jjigae- and galbi-eating Indi-an who has had no trouble assimilating to life in Korea. He admits that he doesn’t “miss Indian [food] at all.” Besides plunging into the world of Korean cuisine, he loves to drive—“both on the road and on the golf course.” With his love of the outdoors and open space, he hopes to drive across Korea, do a tem-ple stay, and simply immerse himself in the local culture with his lovely wife and two beautiful daughters.


AUGUST 2011 EDITED BY KYOUNG -HEE LIM AND DAVID CAR RUTH


Chicken Carnage Continues at RMT

Happy Hour and Mediterranean Menu at The Spice

Eat Hanmiri’s Rice Cake to Up Your IQ

Lunch for Less at On the Border

Much has been said about Rocky Moun-tain Tavern’s Tuesday night special on Buf-falo wings, which sell for W300 a piece. But what’s less well-known is just how many wings get consumed at the Canadian-owned-and-operated Itaewon pub. They’ve set the record for the most wings sold in Korea annually, and each Tuesday around 4,500 wings are cooked, sold, and eaten. Poor chickens! rockymountaintavern.com 010-3643-5392

Between, Itaewon’s trendy spot for people-watching, has come up with a new cocktail concept that may soon rival classics like the Old Fashioned and Manhat-tan. Unlike ordinary cocktails, the Molecular Cocktail is an entirely different drink that is concocted from a scientific combination of diverse types of alcohol. Make sure that you don’t split any atoms while you’re sipping on this drink.betweenitaewon.com 02-795-6164

Gourmet restaurant The Spice now has a happy hour on Thursday, Friday, and Sat-urday starting at 8 pm. Choose two dishes from the à la carte menu and enjoy a pour of selected sparkling, white or red wines (W55,000). The Hannam-dong restau-rant will also offer a special Mediterranean menu from August 15th to 21st, showcasing a selection of summer dishes from France, Italy and Spain for lunch (W40,000) and din-ner (W55,000). 02-749-2596

Since Korean fine-dining establishment Hanmiri was founded in 1992, smart customers have had an eye out for the “Emperor’s Duteoptteok.” Or perhaps they’re smart because they eat this deli-cious rice cake, made of white adzuki

jam, walnuts, sunflower seeds, pine nuts, and a dash of honey and citron jam. In years past, the dish was prepared for the emperor. To give him an edge in governing the country, they loaded it with nutrients that make the brain work better. Today, it’s still a great, tasty choice for stu-dents or anyone who could use an intellectual improvement. hanmiri.co.kr 02-569-7165

Between’s Molecular Cocktail Not Just for Rocket Scientists

The Sinchon branch of Mexican restaurant chain On the Border is now celebrating its fourth year in business with a lunch special that will drop a few jaws. If the premium prices at On the Border have been an issue for you, this special may be just what el médico ordered. Through the end of August, W9,900 will get you one menu item, chips and salsa, a fruit drink, and coffee, along with one order of chips to go per table. Only available at the Sinchon branch. www.ontheborder.co.kr 02-324-0682

Gastronomic News

34

EDITED BY KYOUNG -HEE LIM AND DAVID CAR RUTH

Bennigan’s Summer Drink Menu Goes Down Smooth

Pour Some Italian Beer in La Bocca

Tony Roma’s Encourages Your Drinking Habit

Summer customers can stay cool while staying healthy with the five new smoothies recently launched by family restaurant Bennigan’s. Only the finest - and freshest - fruit is thrown in the blender, resulting in outstand-ing taste and loads of nutri-ents. Among the five smoothies, Berry Berry Berry mixes up raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries, three super foods that can improve your skin and figure. Don’t forget about Red Monkey, which adds blended bananas and coconuts to tart cranberry juice to make the per-fect drink when you’re all worn out. bennigans.co.kr

The Korean Olympic delega-tion won its bid to hold the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeo-ngchang, but it appears that Tony Roma’s customers may be the real winners. Through the end of August, the rib restau-rant is offering a beer promo-tion to celebrate the occasion. For W9,800+ per person, you can enjoy as much beer as you want along with a complimen-tary side dish, your choice of nachos with artichoke dip, buf-falo wings, and brisket potato skins. And if you bring along three or more friends, you get two side dishes. tonyromas.co.kr

How many Italian beers do you know? Get acquainted with one of this Mediterranean country’s classic beers at Itaewon restaurant La Bocca. The brew is a pale lager produced by Birra Menabrea, in operation since 1846. On weekdays, you can enjoy even more of the foamy stuff as La Bocca throws in a free bottle with each one that you purchase. W9,000+. 02-790-5907


NATIONWIDE 38

SEOUL 42

GANGWON PROVINCE 59

GYEONGGI PROVINCE 60

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE 62

GYEONGSANG PROVINCE 63

JEOLLA PROVINCE 68

JEJU ISLAND 70

NETWORKING CALENDAR 71

Through September 25th If you’re unsure about the ins and outs of 20th century American art, this exhibit is a good place to begin. The 87 representative pieces by Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Man Ray, Jasper Johns, Roy Lichtenstein, and other key American artists on display allow visitors to delve into the worlds of neo-dada, pop art, conceptual art, hyperrealism, and postmodernism. [Continued on page 47]

The American Art: Masterpieces of Everyday Life

Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, 1976-2009, Soft Viola, 2002. Canvas, resin, rope and metal painted with latex. 264.2 x 152.4 x 55.9cm.Whitney Museum of American Art, New York; gift of The American Contemporary Art Foundation, Inc., Leonard A. Lauder, President 2002.257 © Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen. Photography by Ellen Page Wilson


Directed by Michael BayTransformers 1 made my ears bleed and

Transformers 2 made me bored to tears, so I went into the latest addition to the toy-based franchise with low expectations and a set of emergency earplugs.

You don’t need to k now the stor y, because there really isn’t one. There’s a bunch of good robots, a bunch of bad robots, the charmless Shia LaBeouf and the pointless Rosie Huntington-Whitely. Plus there’s a smattering of A- and B-list actors all managing to give career worst perfor-mances. The film lasts 157 minutes and lots of things are smashed, bashed and blown to pieces. Thanks to the uninspired script and Michael Bay’s insistence on action over plot, I had little to no attachment to any of the characters, so the consequences of everyone’s actions meant nothing to me. Action scenes that may have worked in a different film became utterly redundant and incredibly tedious.

Michael Bay needs to stop systemati-cally destroying any shred of respect I ever had for him and his horde of metal mon-sters, and should shut himself away in a small cupboard where he can spend the rest of his days considering how terrible his lat-

the way. Kevin Spacey and Jeff Bridges co-star, bringing their usual charm and talent to the roles.

Director Grant Heslov manages to spin Ronson’s book into an enjoyable tale that entertains but stumbles slightly in the last half hour. George Clooney plays the wild-eyed psychic soldier with aplomb and the film is a pleasurable failure if you can for-give the out-of-place Hollywood ending. Imperfect, rather silly and mostly true, The Men Who Stare at Goats should keep bud-ding conspiracy theorists pleasantly divert-ed, though Jon Ronson’s book is ultimate-ly the more informative and entertaining option.

est films are, whilst writing letters of apol-ogy to every single person who had to pay money to watch this abysmal waste of time. If you fancy watching a pornographically violent, overlong, overloud, poorly written, creatively moribund piece of cinema then Transformers: Dark of the Moon is right up your street.

* * *

The Men Who Stare at GoatsDirected by Grant Heslov

This 2009 f ilm is making a belated appearance in Korea this summer, but for fans of Jon Ronson and his particular style of journalism this may be worth the wait.

Based on Ronson’s non-fiction book of the same name, the film stars Ewan McGregor as Bob Wilton, an American journal-ist trying to get into Iraq, who meets Lyn Cassady (played by George Clooney), a retired sol-dier who claims he was trained to be a Jedi warrior by the U.S. Army. They find themselves on a rather odd road trip through the Middle East, encountering old friends and enemies along

Movies BY PAUL MAT THEWS

Transformers: Dark of the Moon

Directed by Jang Jun-hwanThis 2003 sci-fi horror/comedy holds a special place in my

heart. When I first saw it eight years ago, I fell in love with this twisted tale of aliens, torture and tight-rope walkers.

Shin Ha-gyun stars as Byeong-gu a rather disturbed young man who believes that wealthy businessman Kang Man-shik (played by Baek Yun-shik) is an alien from Andromeda who threatens the whole world. With the help of his girlfriend Sun-i (fantastic theatre performer Hwang Jeong-min), Byeong-gu kid-naps Man-shik and with some scrubbing pads and a couple of bottles of Mentholatum rub, he sets out to torture his alien cap-tive until he admits the truth.

Save the Green Planet! treads a fine line between humor and horror. You’re never quite sure whether you should laugh or wince, but this intelligent exploration of insanity and aliens will

keep you riveted to the screen. This won’t appeal to everyone, but if you like your horror spiced with comedy, then this prom-ises to be a film you’ll treasure. Plus it has the cutest flesh-eating dog you’ll ever see.

Save the Green Planet! 지구를 지켜라!

CLASSICS OF KOREAN

CINEMA


Television BY SOYEON KIMBERLY YOON

NATIONWIDE

NATIONWIDE CALENDAR

NEW THIS MONTH

August 4th Detective Conan: Quarter of Silence 명탐정 코난: 침묵의 15분 Japan Animation. Minami Takayama; dir. Kobun Shizuno.

August 4th Gisaeng Spirit 기생령 Korea Horror. Han Eun-jeong, Hyomin; dir. Ko Seok-jin.

August 4th Sector 7 제 7광구 Korea SF/Action/Adventure. Ha Ji-won, An Seong-gi; dir. Kim Ji-hun.

August 4th Super Hybrid USA Horror/Action. Shannon Beckner, Oded Fehr; dir. Eric Valette.

August 11th Children Who Chase .

Japan Animation/Adventure/Fantasy; dir. Makoto Shinkai.

August 11th Unidentified Video 미확인 동영상 Korea Horror/Thriller. Park Bo-yeong, Ju Won; dir. Kim Tae-gyeong.

August 11th 블라인드 Korea Thriller Kim Ha-neul, Yu Seung-ho; dir. An Sang-hun.

August 11th Gantz: Perfect Answer Japan Action. Kazunari Ninomiya; dir. Shinsuke Sato.

August 11th The Smurfs USA/Belgium Animation/Family/Fantasy. Dubbed by Neil Patrick Harris, So!a Vergara; dir. Raja Gosnell.

August 11th Arrow, the Ultimate Weapon 최종병기 활 Korea Action/War. Park Hae-il, Ryu Seung-ryong; dir. Kim Han-min.

August 18th Rise of the Planets of Apes USA Action/Adventure/SF. James Franco, Freida Pinto; dir. Rupert Wyatt.

August 18th 3 Idiots India Comedy/Drama. Aamir Khan, R. Madhavan; dir. Rajkumar Hirani.

August 18th Larry Crowne USA Romantic Comedy. Tom Hanks, Julia Roberts; dir. Tom Hanks.

August 18th One Life. UK Documentary. Narrated by Daniel Craig; dir. Michael Gunton, Martha Holmes.

August 25th USA Comedy. Kristen Wiig, Jessica St. Clair; dir. Paul Feig.

August 25th Shaolin China/HK Action/Drama. Andy Lau, Jackie Chan; dir. Benny Chan.

August 25th Dark USA/Australia Horror/Thriller. Katie Holmes; dir. Troy Nixey.

Dates are subject to change.

‘Where you’re morethan just a guest’

WELCOME HOME TOFRASER PLACE CENTRAL, SEOUL

Experience the wealth of opportunities, wondrous sights and cultural sounds that Seoul has to offer, while enjoying the luxury and comforts of a Gold Standard

serviced residence and knowing that every need is well taken care of. Fraser Place Central Seoul. The retreat within a city, your home away from home.

FRASER PLACE CENTRAL - SEOUL #202, UIJURO 1-GA, JUNG-GU, SEOUL, KOREA 100-130Reservations: +82-2-2220-8000,8333

Website: www.fraserplace.co.kr

Top celebrities volunteer to chat with the Knee-Drop Guru in order to deal with vicious rumors.

the most honest side of all guests, which al-lows the audience to sympathize with them while listening to their personal stories. Sometimes the topics are rather scandal-ous, at least compared to how conservative talk shows had been in the past. Guests talk about the rumors going around about them and clarify which parts are true and which are not. Top idol star Kim Hyun-joong came clean about his nose job, stating how his looks were both God-given and man-made. One of the most popular Korean female singers, Baek Ji-young, touched many peo-ple’s hearts by candidly sharing about the scandal she was involved in at the begin-ning of her singing career.

The Knee-Drop Guru is a show that you can watch to learn not just about celebri-ties’ careers but also about the more person-al stories they seldom share. By allowing celebrities to talk openly about their own problems, this variety show has been able to survive and compete with newer shows. Find out why the Knee-Drop Guru gets re-spect and listen to his guests’ untold stories every Wednesday at 11:05 PM on MBC.

If you’re looking for a heartwarming and entertaining talk show that brings out guests’ honest confessions, MBC’s Goldfish is the right choice for you.

(무릎팍 도사), part of Goldfish (황금어장), is a late-night talk show with an original prem-ise. Since its first broadcast on January 2007, it has been respected by a wide range of viewers for providing both in-spiration and laughter.

The Knee-Drop Guru is famous MC and comedian Kang Ho-dong, who dresses up like a possessed guru and listens to his guests’ problems. Because of his appear-ances in this show, he says a lot of foreign viewers mistake him for a real fortune tell-er. The Knee-Drop Guru is joined by two assistants: the Rude Guru, who reads out guests’ profiles and makes impish jokes throughout the show, and the Band Boy, who plays the guitar at the beginning of the show. Although the Band Boy seems like a

minor character in the show, his hilarious comments from time to time make the show more dynamic.

What’s unique about this show is that a lot of the guests call up the production crew first to volunteer to be on the show in order to dispel nasty rumors about themselves. Goldfish is famous for featuring notable figures from all fields, including acting, sports, arts, and politics.

The three-guru team work to bring out

The Knee-Drop Guru Gives Advice to Top Celebrities

Black Country Communion 2 J&R Adventures

T h e r e a r e f e w r o ck bands that deserve the a p p e l l a t io n “ s u p e r-group.” Black Country Communion, however, is one that does, given the

salient fact that blues god Joe Bonamassa, Deep Purple alumnus Glenn Hughes, and Jason Bonham, heir to his father John’s leg-acy are three of the quartet. Even though their second album is not quite the tour-de-force that the first was, there is enough bone-crunching heavy blues rock for 1970s nostalgia buffs to get their teeth into, as well as more reflective odes honed in the forges of melodic tunesmithing. The al-bum storms out of the starting gate with crunchers like “The Outsider” and “Man in The Middle,” segues through the Zep-pelin-esque “Battle For Hadrian’s Wall,” and emerges into the land of the mellow, comparatively speaking. Most other tunes, well-written and performed though they

As a past-the-point-of-no-return expat, I don’t normally get homesick for the US, but Vancouverite Douglas Coup-land can take me there. Cou-pland makes me homesick in a strange way, because he himself seems to be sick of home. His pessimistic futur-ism is brought to the fore in

his most recent novel, Player One: What Is to Become of Us (2010, $15.95, 246 pages).

In succeeding chapters, each of the five characters in this novel alternately provide their narrative viewpoints. Our sense of who the characters are thus evolves as the plot gets rehearsed and advanced from dif-ferent perspectives, simultaneously provid-ing intrinsic and extrinsic dramatic tension. None of the characters are particularly sym-pathetic; each in his or her own way is an archetypal loser. The whole is more than the sum of the parts, however, as Coupland’s

technique manifests the tenderness which occurs when shortcomings serendipitously interact.

Coupland’s next most recent novel, Genera-tion A (2009, $24, 320 pages), has the same narrative structure, and the same empathet ic concern for bruised, damaged and geneti-c a l ly id io s y n c r a t i c individuals (several of his characters have limited autisms, quirky perceptual and behavioral patternings which are given broad resonance but aren’t served well by the overly reductionist term “disabilities”). Generation A is set in the near future, when bees have become extinct. This science fic-tion conceit allows Coupland a Heideggerian vantage point where bee-ness, something we’ve inured ourselves to regard as mun-dane, is suddenly presenced. Coupland’s characters are excessively witty, which, when coupled with his sardonic plot twists, makes for some very humorous moments in

front of the page. The relationship between

the two main characters in his 2007 novel The Gum Thief (W18,000, 275 pages) is strongly reminiscent of the relationship between Mick Kelly and John Singer in Carson McCullers’ novel The Heart Is a Lonely Hunter. Roger is a divorced, middle-aged alcoholic and Bethany is an overweight Goth who hasn’t decided yet if she’s going to college. Both are working in an office supply store in suburbia, the nadir of nowhere. Their rela-tionship develops over Roger’s attempt at a seriocomic novel (a novel within a novel) which gets passed around in the staff room cafeteria. The setting works wonders for finding some profound resonance within a strip-mall culture that would otherwise seem to be stripped of meaning.

For an overview of the rest of Coupland’s oeuvre, visit us online at 10mag.com/books. The 10th anniversary of the WTC’s immo-lation next month will find us reckoning with The Cultures of War by John Dower.

are, lack the verve that drives the harder tunes. Older rockers will love the Zeppelin-meets-Purple vibe, but new listeners might be left a little deflated.

* * *

Raphael SaddiqStone Rollin’ Columbia Records

Raphael Saddiq’s pre-vious solo release The Way I See It showcased his dynamic vocal rein-terpretations of 1960s American soul to per-

fection. His new album Stone Rollin’ takes Saddiq a step further along the same basic path, only this time he’s focusing squarely on the more bluesy R&B side of the 60s equation. Saddiq is in top form here; listen-ers could be forgiven for thinking they’ve entered some musical time warp as that decade fairly springs forth. All sorts of artists from that golden era resonate: Bo Diddley (“Day Dreams”), Ray Charles/Ste-vie Wonder (“Movin’ Down The Line”), Irma Thomas (“Just Don’t”), and Sly & The Family Stone (“Heart Attack”) are but some of the soul pantheon resurrected here, and Saddiq’s respectful treatment shines through. This album is an obvious labor of love that stays true to its inspiration. BY M ICH A EL BER RY

Secret Starlight Moonlight TS Entertainment

A l r e a d y a n a n o m a l y f o r s c o r i n g s u c -cess with retro t h r o w b a c k “Shy Boy” off a minor record label, Secret are

back with their second mini album, a triumphant trio of feel-good songs about puppy love inspired by 60s and 70s girl pop and an enthusiastic mix and match of nostalgia. Bordering on the bubble-gum, lead song “Oh! Honey” combines precise vocal harmonies with a mélange of whimsical guitars. “Starlight Moon-light” shoulders the album with a more mature quasi-ballad as the four members croon a paean to a hesitant first love. The final track lays to rest any doubts about the album’s success with “Melodrama,” a song that spins a unique homage to period pop while maintaining its roots in 21st-century musical production. The group seems to have finally found their special niche among South Korea’s greatest, and if this collection is any indication, their future will be as bright and full as that glowing orb on the cover. BY A N NA OR Z EL


Canadian FictionBooks BY JOHN MENSING

NATIONWIDE

HotlinesEmergency 119Police 112Directory Assistance 114Medical Information Center 1339

This is a 24-hour, nationwide hospital information service available in English,

Korean, Chinese and Japanese.

Foreigner Assistance/Translation

Assistance 1588-5644 1330

Korea Immigration immigration.go.kr 1345

Korean Customs customs.go.kr 1577-8577

Seoul Dasan (city info) 02-120

Investment AssistanceKOTRA kotra.or.kr 02-3460-7114Invest Korea investkorea.org 02-3460-7545

Korean Banks

1st Floor, Seoul Finance Center 84 Taepyungro 1-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 02-773-3131

(KEB 외환은행) keb.co.kr 02-729-0114

(SC 제일은행) scfirstbank.com 02-3702-3114

Major Foreign BanksAmerican Express americanexpress.co.kr 02-2000-8100

Australia & New Zealand 02-3700-3100

ccbseoul.com 02-6730-1718

Citibank citibank.co.kr 02-3455-2114 02-724-4500

02-2202-4500 02-399-0368

bnpparibas.co.kr 02-317-1700

02-311-0060

Overseas Accommodation

BaliVilla Orchid

Available for short or long term rental. Check website and then e-mail or call for exclusive Korea-only low rates. villaorchidbali.com email: [email protected] 010-7307-6555

You can’t deny it. Attitudes to copyright here in Korea are—what’s a nice way to put this?—pretty casual. Perhaps the most visible example is the sale of bootleg DVDs in subway stations, on the street and in a particular part of the Yongsan Electronics Market in Seoul.

Such is the attitude towards the sale of DVDs that local government has even provided standardized, semi-permanent structures for vendors to sell their wares in. Wander through the rows and rows of

DVDs to find everything from The Simp-sons to The Sopranos. The complete six seasons of your favorite mobster drama sell for W40,000—a third of the price on Amazon!

But how has this situation come about? The Korean film industry is highly pro-tected, with cinemas forced to show a quota of Korean films versus foreign films. This leaves a segment of the market, and not just foreigners, longing for overseas content. With a good Internet connection and a

cheap DVD writer, anyone can become an entrepreneur and help fill this gap!

Of course, ripped films aren’t the only sort of piracy. How many times have you been at work and tried to update some soft-ware only to be told by the computer that “this is not a genuine copy of Windows”? And need I remind you of the availability of knock-off versions of Louis Vuitton?

Will this situation change? With vari-ous avenues already available for people to download films at home (both legal and not so legal), not to mention the slow death of DVDs in favor of movie files to play on your iPad or Galaxy Tab, there will soon come a time when going to Yongsan to pick up a DVD might become an anachronism.

The final nail in the coffin will come in the form of a Korean version of something like Netf lix, allowing affordable, high-quality movie downloads on demand. In addition, sections of the Korea-USA free trade agreement specifically call on Korea to curb the intellectual property theft (espe-cially of films) that usually goes unchecked.

But until that time, I expect the DVD vendors in the Yongsan Electronics Market will keep doing a brisk business.


Shot by Taylor Sloan

Call to make an appointment 070-4227-6158 / 010-3172-3177

Open 10 am — 8 pmEnglish service available

Trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK

Our mission is to help you achieve beauty and harmony in your lifestyle. Our stylists are carefully trained in advanced techniques to bring out the best in your hair. We guarantee that you will receive professional service.

Do You Copy That?

Tech BY STAFFORD LUMSDEN

T he restaurants we feature in this section have usually been foreign. But really, when there is a trea-

sure of Korean food, we should applaud and support it wholeheartedly. As recent-ly as half a decade ago, it was difficult to find many non-Korean dining outlets, so that only amplified the expat craving for food not covered in red. Now the scene has shifted enough that expats, having got-ten their fill of the foods they missed from home, want to find where the truly excep-tional Korean places are.

These finds are usually tucked away in back alleys. It’s not because the alley-ways thrive with great cuisine. It’s that the real estate prices have already killed the good ones in busy thoroughfares. Durim (豆林) is one of these. It’s near Jonggak Station on the side that hasn’t (yet) been touched by the wrecking ball. This hanok hideaway specializes in making its own tofu.

No, seriously, you gotta try this tofu.It’s rustic and country-tasting, and it’s

used as the enhancement for the other dishes they serve in this historic house-hold. The galbi jjim (갈비찜) is stout and hardy—ribs braised in soy and garlic. The

tofu stands up to them and even comple-ments. The duruchigi (두루치기) is pork and bean sprouts stir-fried with chili oil. The sprouts come out nutty with just enough heat to make them interesting. Again, the tofu works as a slightly sweet and cool counterweight to the punchy pork and chili oil.

Those are some of the mains, but the charm comes on the side. Each table starts out with a bowl of fresh soft tofu. It’s slightly salted and so simple. It’s like cot-tage cheese with the added effect of mak-ing you continue dipping your spoon in for one more bite.

The other must-try is the nurungji dong-dongju (누룽지 동동주). This is rice beer made with burnt rice, like you’d find at the bottom of a sizzling stone bowl bibimbap. The result is a rich brew with strong cara-mel overtones.

Between the dongdongju, the housemade tofu and the dishes that come out just right, Durim gives that Korean experience you came to Korea for. Places like this are dis-appearing quickly to make way for soulless corporate coffee shops and convenience stores. Get there before the wrecking ball finds it first.

No English on menu, but there are pictures of their best dishes

Smoking not allowed

Quite friendly to vegetarians

There are some steps in various places

Yes, but usually not necessary

A real classic Korean experience with great tofu

Not for people who prefer sterile franchises

W6,000 to W80,000

02-720-0714

35 Cheongjin-dong, Jongno-gu. Head out exit 2 of Jonggak Station (line 1). Take a left down the first street and then left into a maze of alleyways.

Lunch: 12 – 2 pm, dinner: 5 – 10 pm. Closed Sunday.

Duruchigi

Galbi jjim

10 Magazine reimburses reviewers for their meals and never notifies restaurants that they will be reviewed.


DurimTofu’s Last Night in TownThe humble soybean gets treated right at this back-alley find —or at least until the bulldozers show up.

SEOUL

FOOD REVIEW BY JOE MCPHERSON

Soft tofu

!e beautiful Korean cuisine

B1, GFC (Star Tower) 737 Yeoksam-dong,Gangnam-gu

96 Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu

SUBWAY Yeoksam Stn, Line 2

Gwanghwamun Stn, Line 5 Jongno

Cheonggyecheonro

GangnamFinance Center

Premium Place 2nd floor

TEL: 02.569.7165~6 (Yeoksam)TEL: 02.757.5707~8 (Gwnaghwamun)[email protected], www.hanmiri.co.krHOURS: 11:30-3:00 and 5:30-10:00

Chef’s Seasonal Menu Item Free!Hanmiri provides an item from the chef’s seasonal menu with purchase.

Not valid with any other discount or promotion

Hanmiri


Finding somewhere with a little romantic privacy in Seoul is not the easiest task. But off the beaten path in Sinsa-dong, the candle lights and low music at Hello Bar provide the perfect setting for couples looking to escape the huge crowds and friends in need of relaxing conversation. Wine by the glass is only W8,000 (a steal compared to some of the other wine bars in the area) and the menu features an excellent cheese and cracker platter for only W10,000. For larger groups, there are tables and chairs or, if you’re with that special someone, cuddle up on a pile of pillows on the floor. B1 Hogyeong Building, 541-2 Sinsa-dong, Gang-nam-gu. 02-541-4427 WOR DS A N D SHOT BY CU RTIS FI LE

August is the cruelest month, temperature-wise. In Korea, you can deal with it like normal people do, by heading into the AC and trying some icy treats. Or you can opt for the iyeolchiyeol (이열치열) principle—literally, “cure heat with heat”—and slurp on some steaming samgyetang. Whichever way you go, the re-views below give you a good option.

TOP PATBINGSUIt’s hot! The popular way to cool down in Korea is patbingsu (팥빙수). And the popular place to enjoy this shaved ice treat is at Meal Top. Located in the upstairs food court at the Apgujeong Hyundai department store, Meal Top is a café with a Mediter-ranean theme. The bingsu comes in a variety of flavors, includ-ing the classic red bean (pat), coffee and the fruity strawberry. Each order comes in an easily manageable size, so you and your friends can try a variety. One of the quirks of Meal Top is that even though they have tableside service, you must pay first when

Gangnam-gu. 02-547-6800

A CHICKEN IN EVERY BOWLThe traditional dish to eat on the hottest days of summer is Sam-gyetang, that ginseng chicken soup with a whole stuffed chicken. Samgyetang joints are everywhere, but the classic must-try loca-tion is Tosokchon (토속촌), near Gyeongbokgung Palace. It’s at the top of the list of tourists, office workers and even presidents. The difference at this place, other than its hanok atmosphere, is in the broth. The chickens have been boiled so long that the soup is rich and creamy. They are also generous with the goodies stuffed inside and outside the bird. Gyeongbokgung Station (line 3, exit 2). Look for the line of Japanese tourists down a side street on the

WOR DS A N D SHOT BY JOE MCPH ER SON

Hello, Privacy

Two Tasty Ways to Deal with the Heat

FOODIE FINDS


While Seoul may not be as amenable to riding bikes as some other major cities, there are still plenty of opportunities for the adventurous cyclist.

E very day, Seoulites choose to pedal a bike in the second largest city in the world. Cycling is not only a

means of transportation, but also a popu-lar pastime for all ages, and Seoul is very accessible via bicycle. It should be noted that cycling here may be quite harrow-ing when compared to other international cities. As a former resident of New York City, I found the streets here to be in poorer condition generally, and the drivers to be more aggressive and pay less attention to pedestrians and cyclists alike. That said, hundreds of thousands of cyclists take to the streets every day, and if you’re feeling up to it, there are plenty of opportunities to get involved in cycling.

For the leisure cyclist, bicycle rentals are available all along the Han River path, and include everything from a 20” wheeled bike with training wheels for your tot to a multispeed cruiser that is the typical choice for a native Seoulite. Also readily available are tandems and some nicer geared hybrid-style bikes, although these will cost a bit more. Expect to be charged around W3,000 to W5,000 per hour, though typically the rental places seem to be pretty lax about return times. If the river path isn’t your thing, bike paths line many main roads (they are a part of the sidewalk, separate from the street and typically lined in green), but don’t expect pedestrians to give you a sec-ond or even first thought.

As with much of the rest of the world, many young people here have begun to pay attention to the fixed gear subculture of cycling. While many of the fixed gear rid-ers here focus on freestyle riding, there are several boutique shops that can service all your fixed gear needs, notably LSD (lsd-bikes.com 070-7581-4325) by Yaksu Stn. (lines 3 & 6,) and (02-322-2428) by Hapjeong station (lines 2 & 6) near Hongdae. Foreigners interested in fixed gear riding will find these shops staffed and patronized by people willing to go for rides and hang out, and they are great places to get involved with the growing Seoul fixed gear community.

While most of what a cyclist will need is available here, it should be noted that

much of it is significantly more expensive than the prices offered in shops in the US or Europe, where many of the brands and manufacturers are based. Surprisingly, I have found little in the way of “unique-to-Korea” items of any interest in the bike shops I have explored around the city. Cer-tainly there are a few Korean-based compa-nies, but their products are hardly inspired and much of the time are complete knock-offs of existing internationally marketed products. For your high-end needs, check out Bikeland (bikeland.co.kr 02-492-5501) near the Costco by Sangbong Stn. (line 7 and Jungang line), but expect to pay a hefty premium. Otherwise, almost every neigh-borhood has a bike shop that you just need

to get out and find. Don’t expect a big sign or anything except bikes in the window to tip you off.

Information regarding cycling for for-eigners is often hard to come by—most Korean cyclists ride bikes as a means of transportation, and fewer have the finances or the desire to engage in cycling as a pas-time. Don’t be discouraged! As a newcomer to Seoul, I found that social media was often the best source of information and specifics regarding where to go for cycling needs. As cycling increases in popularity, more and more people foreign and native alike are looking for the same information, and it’s out there. Ride safe, and keep the rubber side down!

SEOUL DISCOVERY

Cycling SeoulWORDS BY CHRIS CHOU, SHOTS BY LISA X ING

* S

hot b

y C

hris

Cho

u

*

SEOUL


August is the last month to see Korean Rhapsody, the Leeum ’s ambitious attempt to exhibit

change in Korean art over the last 120 years. The exhibit shows traditional art alongside modern and contemporary pieces.

The show’s intent is roughly the same as the mission of the museum at large. Samsung’s permanent collection houses both traditional and newer work, exhibited next to contemporary pieces by global art stars like Gilbert and George, Damien Hirst, and Jeff Koons.

On a trip to Korean Rhapsody, don’t miss out on Samsung’s permanent collection. Half the museum is dedicated to traditional art and objects, like its vast collection of celadon and porcelain pottery. Samsung also has a number of folding screens and calligraphy paintings that once decorated royal chambers and the homes of Korea’s elite.

Samsung’s modern art collection includes pieces by working Korean artists like Bae Young Whan, Jung Yeondoo, and Cho Duck-Hyun. The mix of realism, abstracts, and multimedia work shows how Korean artists have conformed to and reacted against international art movements.

Some of the best Korean works include a newsprint-covered cathedral caging twenty-five screens by seminal multimedia artist Nam June Paik and a futuristic sculpture of a monster by Lee Bul, which hangs on strings from the roof. Korean Rhapsody closes August 21st.

Another well-known Korean will debut a new set of images this month at the Arario Gallery in Seoul. Kim Chang-il is a businessman and president of the Arario gallery, which has outposts in Cheonan, New York, and Beijing.

Kim is best known for his personal collection of art, which includes work by Keith Haring, Tracey Emin, and Andy Warhol. But Kim is also an artist, who last exhibited a series of magazine covers splattered with rotting tomatoes. His new show, “Who Can Say What?” will debut in Cheonan and then come to Seoul on August 23rd. It closes September 21st.

WOR DS BY RUSS M A RTI N

Arario Seoul Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 1). 10 am – 9 pm. Closed Mon. Free. ararioseoul.com 02-723-6190

Leeum Samsung Muesum of Art Hangangjin Stn. (line 6, ex. 1). 10:30 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Permanent collection W10,000, Korean Rhapsody W7,000. leeum.org 02-2014-6900

Monthly Art Update

EDITOR’S PICKS

Kwaedae Lee, Haebang goji (Liberation Hill) 1948, Oil on canvas

SEOUL CALENDAR

[email protected], 02-711-9171

Wine The perfect gift for clients,

for friends…For all occasions: Chusok, Christmas,

Chinese New Year, Birthdays...

Pieroth Wines provides the perfect solution for all your gift giving needs - unique gift cases with your choice of our top quality wines from around the world.

Delivery available to offices and homes, from single cases to large corporate orders.

Contact us today for more details and a list of available cases and wines, or just to purchase some great wines at wholesale prices delivered to your home.

SEOUL

SEOUL

SEOUL CALENDAR

Design & Fashion

OngoingFree Market and Hope Market Weekend afternoons, stop by the playground at Hongdae for some fashionable finds. The Free Market, held on Saturday, focuses on fashion accessories, while the Hope Market on Sundays offers more in the way of arts and crafts. Located close to Hongik Univ. Stn. (line 2) and Sangsu Stn. (line 6). 1 - 6 pm. cafe.daum.net/artmarket, cafe.daum.net/hopemarket 1330

Traditional Crafts Connecting Past and Future You can take a look at Korea’s traditional crafts while learning how they were made. Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation near Seolleung Stn. (line 2, ex.8). 9 am - 6 pm. Closed Sun. chf.or.kr 02-3011-2176

August 31st - September 2nd2011 Preview in Seoul Organized by the Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), this expo focuses on highly functional, eco-friendly textiles. COEX 1F B Hall near Samseong Stn. (line 2, ex. 5 & 6). 9:30 am - 6 pm. previewinseoul.com 02-528-4016

Art

OngoingChinese Food, Clothing and Shelter Exhibition Exhibiting handicrafts from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It was during these periods that craftsmanship flourished the most in China. Hwajeong Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 3). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon & holidays. W4,000. hjmuseum.or.kr 02-2075-0114

Through August 7thFelicity and Caprice: The Complete Cycle Delia Brown’s first exhibit in Korea examines bourgeois power and wealth. Gallery Hyundai near Apgujeong Stn. (line 3, ex.2). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. galleryhyundai.com 02-519-0800

Masaya Chiba: An Infinitely Comfortable Lifestyle Meet young Japanese artist Masaya Chiba, who is known for his unique style of incorporating visual and psychological effects in the works. Gallery Hyundai 16 Bungee. 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. 16bungee.com 02-2287-3516

Through August 13th“Isabelle Huppert: Woman of Many Faces” Photo Exhibit Presenting portraits of this famous French actress by 70 photographers. Hanmi Museum of Photography near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am - 7 pm, weekends 11 am - 6:30 pm. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315

Through August 18thSpacing Exhibition Xavier Veilhan shows what remains after all unnecessary things have been deleted. 3F Gallery of Heungguksaengmyeong Building near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex.6). seonhwafoundation.org 02-2002-7777

Through August 21stA Brushstroke We can look into the attitude of artists through the brushstrokes of Seokdo, an artist of China’s Xing Dynasty. Hakgojae Gallery near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 9:30 am - 7 pm, Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. hakgojae.com 02-720-1524

Jung Kwang: The Way of Wandering Monks Called himself freak, idiot, and rubbish when he was alive, he poured his madness into his works. Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal St. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. W3,000 - W5,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Moving Art Museum 2 Especially designed for kids, this exhibition provides a variety of spaces for experience and play. Gumho Art Museum near Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. kumhomuseum.com 02-720-5114

Through August 24thArt and Play: Kinetic Art Tired of rigid, unmoving art exhibitions? Check out the kinetic art on display here. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center. 11 am - 8 pm. Closed July 25th. W4,000 - W8,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Through August 28thJoseph Beuys: The Multiples Displaying drawings, films, engravings, and objects by Joseph Beuys. Soma Museum near Mongchontoseong Stn. (line 8, ex.1). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 - W9,000. somamuseum.or.kr 02-425-1077

Princely Treasures This exhibition of European masterpieces from the 17th and 18th centuries is on loan from the Victoria and Albert Museum. Special Exhibition Gallery in the National Museum of Korea. Tue, Thu, Fri 9 am - 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am - 9 pm. Sun, holidays 9 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 - W10,000. baroque2011.com 02-323-0326

Seoul’s Soul Italian Omar Galliani’s first exhibit in Korea. Art Museum of Seoul University. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W3,000. snumoa.org 02-880-9504

The Song of Nature: Goryeo Celadon from Yucheon-ri By investigating the Goryeo Dynasty celadon kiln site in Yucheon-ri, we can learn more about the character and design of these beautiful pieces of pottery. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Thu, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9499

Through August 31stVisual Art Creative Festival Appreciate the sculptures made of various materials as you walk around the Dream Forest. Dream Forest Art Center near Miasamgeori Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401

Through September 4thGang Ik-jung’s Hangeul Installation Art The artist decorated his work with colorful hangeul which communicates the wisdom he has gained through his life. Sejong Story Exhibit Hall at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). Tue - Sun 10:30 am - 10:30 pm. Closed Mon. Free. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1153

Through September 8thJoyce in Art This exhibition includes some of the works shown at the Bloomsday 100th Anniversary Exhibition held in Dublin. Art Museum of Seoul University. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W3,000. snumoa.org 02-880-9504

Through September 25thMusée d’Orsay: Dream and RealityFeaturing pieces from the collection of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, including works by Van Gogh, Monet, and Gauguin. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center. 11 am - 8 pm. Closed August 29th. W5,000 - W12,000. orsay2011.co.kr 02-325-1077

The Art of Disney’s Classic Fairy Tales This exhibit features over 600 original artworks that express Walt Disney’s unique imagination and humanism. Hangaram Design Museum at Seoul Arts Center in Seocho. Weekdays 11 am - 8 pm, Sat & Sun 10 am - 8 pm. Closed August 29th. W10,000 - W14,000. dctexhibition.com 02-795-2011

Integrated Ticketing Info Centerat Gwanghwamun Square Haechi Garden

Sejong Belt and S-day

EDITOR’S PICKS

Kwaedae Lee, Haebang goji (Liberation Hill) 1948, Oil on canvas

July 26th - October 16th Art, Theater & DanceThe Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. Nanta Theater.

Jump Theater. The Seoul Metropolitan Museum of Art. Along with being major cultural centers, they’re all located downtown close to Sejong-ro, the major street that starts at the imposing gate of Gyeongbok Palace and runs south.

Another thing that these sites have in common is that they are all members of Sejong Belt. While this may sound like a Joseon dynasty fashion accessory, it’s actually an association of more than 40 different culture and arts organizations includ-ing theaters, art galleries, museums, and palaces, all located near Gwanghwamun.

By coordinating entertainment packages with these orga-nizations, Sejong Belt is able to offer serious savings from 20% to 50%. Browse through the program’s preset packages, which are organized by price, location, time, and theme to help you find the package that’s just right for you. For even bigger discounts, buy a “rush ticket” on the day of the performance for 50% off (inquire about which shows are available).

Among the packages recommended this summer are Enjoy-n, with which you can head up to the observatory at

N Seoul Tower, stroll through the Teddy Bear Museum, and get a meal at The Place, all for W55,000 for two (worth W72,000). Or if you’re in the mood for some theatre, go for Rhythmical “S” and get a ticket to both Nanta and Jump for W54,000 (W90,000 value). Another fun option is Gwanghwamun S-Day, the “S” standing for Seoul, Sunday, and Sejong Belt. Held on the final Sunday of each month from 10:30 am – 6 pm, this event features admission to select shows for only W10,000, a walking tour of Gwanghwamun, and other cultural events.

To buy tickets or get other advice about how to plan your cultural excursion, head to the integrated ticketing info center, located at Gwanghwamun Plaza near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 9). Open every day from 10:30 am – 8:30 pm, the facility also offers a place to relax and free performances on the week-end. Staff at the center provide assistance in four languages (Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and English). sejongbelt.com 02-399-1000 WOR DS BY DAV I D CA R RUTH



[Continued from page 37] The pieces are on loan from the permanent collection of the Whitney Museum, which along with the Guggenheim Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art is one of New York’s finest art galleries. This is the first time that artwork from the Whitney Museum, founded in 1931 to support American art and artists, will be on display in Korea.The American art presented in this exhibition is tied together by the common theme of “the object”: ordinary items and the artistic significance they were given by 20th century Ameri-can artists. Visitors to the exhibition can stroll through three main sections related to this theme along with a special show entitled American Modernism.Learn even more about the art on display with the English tour held each day at 3 pm. The exhibition is held at the National Art Museum, Deoksugung. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2). Tue-Thu 10am - 7pm, Fri-Sun 10am - 9pm. Closed Mon. W12,000. moca.go.kr/engN 02-2188-6114

WOR DS BY DAV I D CA R RUTH

The American Art: Masterpieces of Everyday Life

EDITOR’S PICKS

July 27th - August 29thWorld Press Photo Exhibit Featuring the winners of the World Press Photo Contest. V-gallery at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. W3,000 - W8,000. donga.com 02-580-1300

July 29th - August 27thDisappeared but RemainedA collaborative photo exhibition between the Hanmi Photograph Museum and Australian Centre for Photography. The Museum of Photography, Seoul. photomuseum.or.kr 02-418-1315

August 1st - 17thVillage Story & Memories of the Winter This photo exhibition expresses longing for the countryside through images of towns that have been eliminated by redevelopment. Hangaram Art Museum at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am - 8 pm. Free. sac.or.kr 02-3431-1996

August 11th - 15thKorea Art Summer FestivalBringing artists together to show the past, present and future of Korean contemporary art. Seoul Trade Exhibition & Convention (SETEC) near Hakyeoul Stn. (line 3, ex.1). 10:30 am - 7:30 pm. W5,000. kasf.co.kr 02-796-0567

August 19th - 21stAsia Top Gallery Hotel Art FairFeaturing more than 70 top Asian galleries from countries including China, Japan and Korea. Grand Hyatt Seoul. Fri

3 - 8 pm, weekends 12 - 8 pm. W20,000. hotelartfair.kr 02-741-6320

August 19th - September 4thTaomina Exhibition: TactophiliaGallery Golmok in Itaewon. [email protected]

August 28th - September 25thMy Motherland Work by prominent modernist artist Ju Myeong-deok. Daelim Contemporary Art Museum near Gyeongbokgung Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. daelimmuseum.org 02-720-0667

Theater & Dance

OngoingBattle B-Boy Romance at a dance tournament serves as the setting for this exhibition of awesome dance routines and soaring aerial moves. Nonverbal performance. B-Boy Theater Samjin B/D B1 in Hongdae. Wed - Fri 8 pm, Sat 6 pm, Sun and holidays 2 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon & Tue. W50,000. sjbboys.com 02-323-5233

Drawing Show: Hero Art exhibit or performance? The drawing show is as fun to watch as it is hard to classify. Drawing Show now presents a totally new show named “Hero” at a different location. Nonverbal performance. Myungbo Art Hall near Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 7, ex. 7). Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drawingtheater.com 02-766-7848 Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

SEOUL

Man

Ray

, 189

0-19

76, L

a Fo

rtun

e, 1

938

Oil

on c

anva

s. 2

4 x

29 in

.W

hitn

ey M

useu

m o

f Am

eric

an A

rt,

New

Yor

k; p

urch

ase,

with

fund

s fr

om

the

Sim

on F

ound

atio

n, In

c. 7

2.12

9©

Man

Ray

Tru

st /

AD

AG

P, P

aris

, 201

1

SEOUL CALENDAR


Drum Cat This prize-winning, all-female percussion ensemble works rock, jazz, techno, and Latin rhythms into their complex and powerful non-verbal performance. Myungbo Art Hall - Haram Hall (Jung-gu). Tues - Sat 4 & 8 pm. Sun & holidays 4 pm. 90 min. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. drumcat.co.kr 02-586-8489

Fanta-stick This slapstick nonverbal show mixed with Korean traditional music offers you lots of laughs. Nonverbal performance. Kyunghyang Newspaper Building near Seodaemun Stn. (line 5, ex. 5). Daily at 8 pm. 80 min. W40,000 - W50,000. fanta-stick.co.kr 02-6401-5959

Figaro, the Barber of Seville: Opera/Musical Presented by OTM (Originale Teatro Melodramma), this open-run production of Rossini’s famous opera buffa takes the bold step of featuring theatre actors and actresses in operatic roles. OTM Cheongdam Art Hall. Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. 100 min. W20,000 - W50,000. otm.or.kr 070-8157-8064

Jump Two would-be thieves break into a house full of martial arts masters! First performed in 2003, this non-verbal show combines a comic story with martial arts moves and impressive visuals. Downtown near Jonggak Stn. Mon 8 pm, Tue – Sat 4 & 8 pm, Sun 3 & 6 pm. W40,000 – W50,000. hijump.co.kr 02-722-3995

Korea House Performance Head over to the Korea House for daily performances based on traditional Korean culture. You can also sample Korean royal cuisine before the show. Nonverbal performance. Chungmuro Stn. (lines 3 & 4, ex. 3). Mon - Sat 7 pm, Sun 8 pm. Dinner price starts at W68,000. Performance is W50,000. kangkoku.or.kr Reserve at 02-2266-9101

Legend of Flower This romantic tale of two lovers is enhanced with stunning sound effects, tantalizing aromas, holographs, and more. Nonverbal performance. Walkerhill Theater at the Sheraton Grande Walkerhill. Mon – Sat 4:50 & 7:30 pm. 75 min. W60,000 and up. legendofflower.com 02-455-5000

Miso Chongdong Theater presents Miso, a story of one woman’s encounter with love told through traditional dance, percussion, and music. Nonverbal performance. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2). 4 & 8 pm. Closed Mon. W30,000 – W50,000. miso.mct.or.kr 02-751-1500

Music Theater Company “Gong”Experience the emotions of the Joseon dynasty through this modern take on gugak (traditional Korean music) and dance. Seong Kyun Small Theater near Hyewha Stn. (line 4, ex. 4). Every Wednesday at 8 pm. 60 min. W20,000. cafe.daum.net/danceparamita 1544-1555

Nanta This kitchen percussion extravaganza is the nonverbal stage show that nearly everyone sees at least once. Two Seoul locations and performances almost daily. Refer to website for more details. W50,000 – W60,000. nanta.co.kr 02-739-8288

Pan An exciting combination of Korean folk songs and percussion of all kinds. Nonverbal performance. Gwanghwamun Art Hall. Weekdays 7:30 pm. Weekends and holidays at 4 pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 90 min. W30,000 - W50,000.ghmarthall.co.kr 02-722-3416

Sa-Choom This non-verbal dance performance tells the story of three friends’ coming of age. Insadong near Jongno 3-ga Stn. (lines 1, 3, & 5, ex. 5). Tue – Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 4 pm. 80 min. W50,000. lovedance.co.kr 070-8249-3023

Seoul Nori Madang: Traditional Performance Korean dancers and singers present you with all the vivid colors and exotic sounds of a traditional performance. Sokchon Lake Park near Jamsil Stn. (line 2, ex. 3). Sun 3 pm. Free. culture.songpa.go.kr 02-414-1985

The Marionette: B-Boy Musical This nonverbal b-boy musical won the top prize in an international competition. Daehan Saengmyeong 63 Art Hall. 8 pm. Closed Mon & 2nd & 16th. 70 min. W30,000. 63.co.kr 1661-1063

Through October 16thNew Space, Search for the New Stage Follow changes in set design and stage production at the National Theatre from the 1950s to the present. The Performing Arts Museum of Korea. Tue - Sat 10 am - 7:30 pm. Sun 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. museum.ntok.go.kr 02-2280-5802

July 31st - August 7thGeorge Balanchine’s The Nutcracker The Oregon Ballet Theatre presents a powerful production of George Balanchine’s version of The Nutcracker. Opera Theater in Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Tue - Fri 7:30 pm, Weekends 4 & 7 pm. 110 min. W40,000 - W150,000 nutcrackerobt.com 070-7814-7330

August 5th - 7thSuspicious Paradise: The DanceAs a new work of Korea national contemporary dance company, it expresses the mood of Korea today: peace and tension. Towol Theater in Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). Fri 8 pm, Sat 5 pm, Sun 3 pm. W10,000 - W16,000. kncdc.kr 02-3472-1420

August 22nd - September 9th College Opera Festival Featuring students from Chugye, Gyeonghee, and Danguk universities. Opera Theater in Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

August 27th - 28thScenes and Monologues by Shakespeare The Seoul Shakespeare Company (formerly Actors without Barders) will be presenting some of your favorite scenes from the bard’s works at Club After in Itaewon. [email protected]

August 27thSamcheonggak Morning Performance Start the day by sipping a cup of seasonal tea and listening to the sound of Korean traditional musical instruments. Samcheonggak in Seongbuk-gu. Free shuttle bus available outside of Euljiro Stn. (line 2, ex. 1) at 9:10 am. Every final Saturday. 10 - 11 am. 60 min. W20,000. samcheonggak.or.kr 02-765-3700

Concerts

Ongoing1,000 Won Happiness Enjoy quality concerts for the price of W1,000. Sign up between the 5th and 7th of each

SEOUL


Taco / Burrito / Fajita / QuesadillaEnchiladas / Margarita & Beer

Everyday 11:30 am ~ 10:30 pm

02-324-068202-565-068202-2672-068202-0518-0682

www.ontheborder.co.kr blog.naver.com/4ontheborder

Fresh!New Taste!

Catering & DeliveryService Available

Over the past few years, Seoul’s music scene has opened its doors to a new world of genres and inter-national music, and expat indie rock band On Sparrow Hills has been there through it all.

Formed in early 2009, the band has seen members leave and new ones join due to the transient nature of the expat com-munity. But they haven’t let this hinder their musical growth and have matured into a full band consisting of Josh Shell and Adam Brennan (shared lead vocals and guitar), Michael Yurgil (bass), Brad Wheeler (drums), and Stephanie Bankston (rhythm, keyboard, and back up vocals). This band has definitely caught the ears of Seoul.

With their vigorous energy and hard work, On Sparrow Hills has been booking shows almost every weekend at some of the best venues in Hongdae such as Freebird. Also, they have had the opportunity to open for famed Canadian instrumental band Do Make Say Think. Since they’re an expat band, one would think that they would mostly have an expat following, but that is not true at all. By playing shows with other Seoul indie bands like WagWak, they have given both Koreans and expats the chance to experience their music.

In fact, their shows are anything but dull. If their recent per-formance at organizer SuperColorSuper’s SuperSketch is any-thing to go by, their combined musical tastes and experiences create a vintage homegrown sound over rocker percussions combined with complex lyrics (written by Shell and Brennan). Their convoluted, enthusiastic and melodic style along with their perfect chemistry on stage makes for a show worth check-ing out.

Don’t think that this band will fade away as many others have. They are currently plugging away in the studio recording individual singles for release and scheduling even more shows. You can see them play August 13th at Laughing Tree Lab near Noksapyeong Station (line 6). For more information on the band and upcoming shows, go to onsparrowhills.tumblr.com or write them at [email protected]. WOR DS BY A LYSSA PER RY A N D SHOT BY COU RTN EY CH EATH A M

Three Years and Going StrongOn Sparrow Hills

SEOUL

LI V E MUSIC

SEOUL

SEOUL CALENDAR


month to win a seat. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). sejongpac.or.kr/happy1000 1544-1887

Saturday Chamber Music Enjoy your Saturday afternoon sipping a cup of coffee as you listen to great classical pieces played by the chamber orchestra at KT Chamber Hall in Mokdong. This event occurs every other Saturday. This month: 8/6 & 8/20. 4 pm. W10,000. ktchamberhall.com 02-1577-4579

Smells Like Teen Spirit Once every two weeks, new band Yangwhajin will rock you at Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) or Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex 6). 8 pm. 8/3, 8/17, 8/31. W25,000. rollinghall.co.kr 02-326-1505

Through October 1stDream Garden Festival Every Saturday night at 7, enjoy high quality performances at the outdoor stage of Dream Forest. This month, enjoy performers by Drum Cat, Moo Moo, and Toxic. dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401

August 4th - 7thThomas Cook in Concert Celebrating the release of his 2nd album. Rolling Hall near Sangsu Stn. (line 6, ex. 1) or Hapjeong Stn. (line 2, ex. 6). 8 pm. Weekends 7 pm. W44,000. rollinghall.co.kr 02-325-6071

August 6th - 21stSAC Family Music Festival Many classics including Tchaikovsky’s Romeo and Juliet Fantasy Overture. Concert Hall at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 4 pm. Adults W15,000, youth W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

August 7thKoreana Chamber Music Society 46th Regular Concert With works by Schubert, Weber, and Beethoven. Recital Hall at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 2:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sac.or.kr 02-515-5123

August 8thKorean Symphony Orchestra Concerto Series Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000. sac.or.kr 02-523-6528

August 9thA Journey Through Sound and History Young people are invited to attend this performance of gugak (traditional Korean music) by the Seoul Gugak String Ensemble. Grand Theatre at Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W10,000 - W30,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114

Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Regular Concert Performing works by Tchaikovsky and Mussorgsky. Concert Hall at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W10,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-3700-6333

August 9th - 10thThe Song of Spear and SwordThe performers wield a spear and sword in this demonstration of Korean martial arts. Grand Theatre at the Nowon Art Center. Tue 7:30 pm, Wed 5 pm. W10,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355

August 10th - 14thBeethoven Symphony Cycle with the West Eastern Divan OrchestraIf you have the time (and money), you can hear all of Beethoven’s symphonies performed during these four concerts by the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra, conducted by Daniel Barenboim. Concert Hall at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W50,000 - W150,000. sac.or.kr 02-318-4301

August 11thSAC 11 am Concert Sibelius’ Violin Concerto, 1st movement, Grieg’s Piano

Concert, 1st movement, and other pieces performed by the Korean Symphony Orchestra. Concert Hall at Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 11 am. W15,000 - W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

August 12thSymphony Series: MozartThe W Philharmonic Orchestra will perform Mozart’s Symphony No. 40, Piano Concerto No. 21 and Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto in D Major. Grand Theatre of Nowon Arts Center. 7:30 pm. W20,000 - W30,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355

August 13thJake Shimabukuro Super Concert Hawaiian ukulele virtuoso Jake Shimabukuro will be performing as part of the 6th Annual Bambell Music Ukulele Festival. Yonsei University Centennial Hall. 7:30 pm. 120 min. W50,000 - W100,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

Sang-jin Shin Piano Recital Performing sonatas by Beethoven, Rachmaninoff, and Liszt. Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W20,000. sac.or.kr 02-2265-9235

August 16th

Air Supply Live in Seoul Australian soft rock duo Air Supply returns to Korea for another fantastic concert. Olympic Park, Olympic Hall. 8 pm. W77,000 – W132,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-3143-5155

Opera M’s Cinema ConcertFeaturing songs from the soundtracks to movies like The Mission, Good Morning Vietnam, and others. Grand Theatre of Nowon Art Center. 7:30 pm. W15,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355

August 19th - 20thKata: “Smart in Music” ConcertMixing art and technology together, IT/gugak band Kata will show you a totally new kind of music. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 5 pm. W15,000. nowonart.kr 02-951-3355

August 20thMen in MBLAQ This will be the first concert ever given by Korean idol group MBLAQ. Jamsil Arena. 5 pm. W55,000 - W99,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-1544-1555

August 20th - 21stFT Island: “Play” Concert Relive the hits of this famous band at AX Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). Standing room only. Sat 7 pm, Sun 5 pm. W88,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-501-7888

August 20th – September 18thChoi Hyun Woo Magic ConcertThe theme of magician Choi Hyun Woo’s latest show is Sherlock Holmes. Can you figure out the mystery? Yongsan Art Center near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 3). Tue - Fri 8 pm. Sat 3 & 6 pm. Sun 2 & 5 pm. 120 min. W33,000 – W66,000. wsmi.co.kr 02-1566-5490

August 25thA Cappella Group “B Vocal” in Concert Famous a cappella group B Vocal will be singing famous songs like “Dancing Queen.” Seoul Arts Center near Nambu Terminal Stn. (line 3, ex. 5). 8 pm. W30,000 - W100,000. sac.or.kr 02-597-9870

SEOUL


August 26thPiano Da Camera Three pianists present works by Bach, Mendelssohn, and Mozart. Sejong Center near Gwanghwamun Stn. (line 5, ex. 8). 7:30 pm. W20,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-391-9631

August 27thSound Horizon Tour 2011 This Japanese prog rock band will be performing at AX-Korea near Gwangnaru Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). 6 pm. 105 min. W88,000. ax-korea.co.kr 02-3445-9697

August 27th – 28th2ne1’s First Concert: “Let’s Hang Out” Idol group 2ne1 will be giving their fans their first chance to see them perform in concert. Olympic Park, Olympic Hall. Sat 6 pm. Sun 7 pm. W88,000 - W100,000. nolza.yg-2ne1.com 02-1566-5702

September 8thLinkin Park in Concert California rock band Linkin Park has been topping the charts since their breakthrough 2000 album Hybrid Theory. Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium. 8 pm. W99,000 - W110,000. ticket.interpark.com 1544-1555

Film

OngoingThe Ultimate Wave Tahiti 3D Only the most experienced surfers in peak physical condition can handle the barrel waves unleashed at Teahupo’o Beach in Tahiti. 63 Building, 63 Art Hall Digital 3D Film Section. 43 min. W11,000 - W12,000. Please visit the website for screening schedule. 63.co.kr 02-789-5663

Through October 2ndKorean Film Continuity Special Exhibition Considered “the invisible art,” continuity is an important part of filmmaking and an essential tool for communication. Korean Film Archive. Tue - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, weekends 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. koreafilm.or.kr 02-3153-2001

Family & Community

OngoingLunchtime Cultural Performances Twice a week every Tuesday and Thursday through October, 30-minute performances are held at 12:20 pm at the permanent outdoor stage at Global Street Plaza in Mugyo-dong, Jung-gu (located behind City Hall near City Hall Stn. (line 1, ex. 4). 02-2075-4135

Royal Horse Guard Parade A royal horse guard parade will depart from Deoksu Palace’s Daehan Gate every Tuesday through late October. City Hall Stn. (lines 1 & 2, ex. 2). 11 am, 2 & 3 pm. 30 min. Free. deoksugung.go.kr 02-771-9951

Saturday Cultural Plaza Every Saturday at 2 pm, the Cultural Plaza at the National Theatre of Korea features free performances, open markets, and more. Shuttle available from Dongguk University Stn. (line 3, ex. 6). 5:30 pm. Free. ntok.go.kr 02-2280-4288

Traditional Culture Experience Mi Su Da Try on hanbok (Korean traditional clothing), drink tea, and listen to Korean music with English, Chinese and Japanese guides. Seoul Namsan Gukakdang near Chungmuro Stn. (line 3, ex. 3 & 4). 90 min. W50,000. Tue - Sat 4 pm. Closed Mon & Sun. 90 min. sejongpac.or.kr 02-399-1114

Through August 21stLotte World Cool Summer FestivalLotte World is more than the rides: they

also have musicals, bands, and a parade prepared to keep summer guests entertained. Mon - Thu 9:30 am - 10 pm, Fri - Sun 9:30 am - 11 pm. W8,000 - W38,000. lotteworld.com 02-411-2000

Through August 28thSeoul Kids Motor Show Attention, kids: this show has pump trolleys to push, go karts to race, and a traffic safety hall to explore. Special Exhibit Hall at Jamsil Stadium. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000 - W15,000. kizmo.co.kr 1588-7859

Tooni Festival A great place for children to play sports and meet cartoon characters. aT Center in Gangnam. 10 am - 6 pm. W12,000 - W15,000. festival.tooniland.com 1544-5349

Through August 30thAnthony Browne RetrospectiveTake a look at the illustrations from 31 books by Anthony Browne, British author and children’s book illustrator. Art Museum at Sejong Center. 11 am - 7:30 pm. W9,000 - W11,000. sejongpac.or.kr 02-3143-4360

August 11th - 27thSeoul Fringe Festival This two week festival showcases some of Seoul’s best experimental art and street performances. Held in Hongdae www.seoulfringefestival.net 02-325-8150

August 13th - 21stSummer Vacation Project Take in performances in a variety of genres from opera to classical. Performance Hall at Dream Forest Art Center near Miasamgeori Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). dfac.or.kr 02-2289-5401

August 19th - 21stE-Stars Seoul 2011 E-stars Seoul is held every summer to promote and globalize the game and e-sports industry. Gamers from all over the world will take part. COEX Hall D. estarsseoul.org 02-2000-6397

Education & Conferences

OngoingBeginner’s Photography ClassKorea’s only photo class taught by a real photographer and English native speaker. Every Sunday outside Mapo Stn. (line 5, ex. 2). W200,000 (group discount available). facebook.com/photoseoul, [email protected] 010-9609-9965

“Garuya Garuya” Kids’ Flour Workshop Because we’d all rather have our kids playing in flour when they’re outside of the house. PMC Kids Hall at COEX Artium. Weekdays 1 - 4 pm, weekends 10:20 am - 4:20 pm. (Sat 4:55 pm). Adult W17,000, kids W23,000. coex.co.kr 02-738-8289

Insect & Reptile ExhibitionWho doesn’t love seeing bugs and snakes, especially when there’s a thick layer of plexiglass between you and them? Insect & Reptile Exhibition Center in Sindang Stn. (line 6). 10 am - 6 pm. W10,000. bugsfestival.com 1588-2019

Weekly Lecture on BuddhismCurious about the practice of Zen Buddhism? English lectures by Zen Master Subul Sunim and others will prove enlightening. 2:30 - 4:30 pm every Saturday except national holidays. Anguk Zen Center, 5 minutes on foot from Anguk Stn. (line 3, ex. 2). angukzen.org 011-229-2829

Through August 28thChangdeokgung, the Palace of Flourishing Virtue As well as being one of the five grand palaces of the Joseon

힐링핸즈

Massage for the soul

Free weekday hot stone or foot care with ANY massage

Full Body Massage Foot Massage Couples Massage Hot Stone Massage Accupressure Package

Standing Tanning Booth

[email protected]

www.healinghands.co.kr

010.3158.5572

Hamilton Hotel

Itaewon StationFire Station

SEOUL

SEOUL CALENDAR


Dynasty, Changdeok Palace has also been added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. National Palace Museum of Korea. 9 am - 6 pm. Weekends 9 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500

Through September 18thThe Return of the Oegyujanggak Uigwe from France The Oegyujanggak Uigwe (Records of the State Rites of the Joseon Dynasty), a priceless document from the Joseon Dynasty which was looted by French soldiers in 1866, has finally returned to Korea. National Museum of Korea near Ichon Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Tue, Wed, Fri 9 am – 6 pm. Wed, Sat 9 am – 9 pm. Sun 9 am – 7 pm. Free. museum.go.kr 02-2077-9487

Through November 30thLearn Korean Traditional CraftsEvery Friday, foreigners are welcome to attend classes on aspects of traditional Korean culture such as hanji (Korean paper), hanbok (Korean clothing), folklore and dance. The National Folk Museum. 10 am - 12 pm. W5,000 - W10,000. [email protected] 02-3704-3104

Sport & Fitness

2011 K-LeagueAugust 13th Seoul vs JeonnamAugust 27th Seoul vs Gangwon Both at Seoul World Cup Stadium at 8 pm

2011 BaseballDoosan Bears at Jamsil Stadium2nd - 4th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm9th - 11th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm16th - 18th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm19th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm20th - 21st vs Hanwha Eagles 5 pm26th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm27th - 28th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm30th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm31st vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm

LG Twins at Jamsil Stadium5th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm6th - 7th vs Hanwha Eagles 5 pm12th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm13th - 14th Lotte Giants 5 pm16th - 18th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm23th - 25th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm30th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm

Nexen Heroes at Mokdong Stadium5th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm6th - 7th vs Doosan Bears 5 pm16th - 18th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm19th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm20th - 21st KIA Tigers 5 pm26th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm27th - 28th Lotte Giants 5 pm

August 20th - 21st7 to 7 Ultra Marathon Festival 6-hour, 12-hour courses, to depart from Yangjaechun at 7 pm. W50,000. Register by August 15th. gangma.net 010-8080-2023

August 23rd - September 15thSanirang Alpine Networks Afternoon Youth Climbing ProgramGet your child involved in something exciting, new and interesting twice a week for a month. Daechi Sports Park in Gangnam. 8 yrs and up. Tues & Thurs 3:45. W275,000. sanirang.net

Dine & Drink

OngoingHomemade Italian Luncheons Enjoy delicious Italian cuisine in a relaxing environment with Club Italia Seoul. Located at the Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten (franciscanfk.com) next to the Italian Embassy between Hannam Stn. (line 6) and Hangangjin Stn. (line 3). RSVP required. Each Sunday at 1 pm.

W15,000. Search for “Club Italia Seoul” on Facebook. clubitalia.or.kr

Korean Cooking Classes and Market Tour Learn authentic Korean cuisine in English from a Korean chef. Classes held at the O’ngo Cooking Studio near Insadong (Nakwon Sangga). Classes include bulgogi, kimchi, and more. Mon – Fri. 10 am, 2 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Korean Night Dining Tour Take a crash course on Korea’s late-night food and drinking culture. Start at Jongno 3-ga and end at Gwangjang Market while dining on Korean favorites like BBQ, makgeolli, and spicy octopus.W88,000 per person (minimum of 3). 6 – 10 pm. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Saturday Korean Cooking Classes8/13 marinated galbi and chive salad, 8/20 vegan doenjang jjigae and panfried buldak with chili sauce, 8/27 samgyetang. W55,000 per class, W150,000 for three classes. Saturday 11 am. ongofood.com 02-3446-1607

Travel

OngoingPalace Tours Youth volunteers are your guides at these free English tours at Deoksugung Palace, taking place every 2nd and 4th Saturday at 10 am & 2:30 pm. Admission to the palace is W1,000. [email protected] 02-3210-3266

Nightlife

OngoingOpen Mic Night at Ireland Yuki Come enjoy the musings of Seoul’s best talent every Thursday. Registration begins at 7:30 pm and the show starts at 8 pm. Free admission. Bar Ireland Yuki in Itaewon (right next to Kraze Burger) near Itaewon Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). [email protected]

Quiz Night at Craftworks Every Wednesday at 8:30 pm. Great prizes including W50,000 bar tab for 1st place. Craftworks Taphouse is located near Noksapyeong Stn. (line 6, ex. 2). craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-2537

Rhyme Time: Spoken Word and Poetry Every 2nd and 4th Thursday, head to Tony’s Aussie Bar in Itaewon for a literary evening. 8 pm. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793

Stand Up Seoul Comedy NightKorea’s finest English language comedians deliver monologues and rants about expat life and other topics. New acts are welcome! The show starts at 9 pm on every first Thursday of each month at the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Facebook: Stand Up Seoul, [email protected]

Sunday FundaySeoul’s newest open mic comedy night, held on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Head down to the basement of the newly renovated Phillies Pub in Haebangchon at 7:30 (sign up at 7 pm). [email protected]

August 6thSeoul Shakespeare Company Red and Black Launch PartyThe revamped Seoul Shakespeare Company (formerly Actors without Barders) will launch their second season with live music and prizes. Berlin in Itaewon. 6 pm. W5,000 suggested donation. [email protected]

Gourmet naturalcheese distributor... ?

top quality meat importer

who then brings in a.

..

professional German bakerwho introduces Them to a...

a direct premium wine importer

meets up with a...

High Street

Market

(2nd floor)

제일기획

PARK

HERE

HIGH STREET

MARKET

Phone: 02-790-5450, Fax: 02-790-5457 www.highstreet.co.kr

www.twiter.com/highstreetseoul

SEOUL


Foreigner Assistance

ATEK (Association for Teachers of English in Korea) atek.or.kr

Seoul Dasan (City Info) 02-120Seoul Global Center global.seoul.go.kr 02-1688-0120Yeoksam English 02-3453-9038Yeonnam Chinese 02-6406-8151Seorae French 02-570-6009Ichon Japanese 02-2199-8882Itaewon/Hannam English 02-2199-8883~5

Relocation

Crown Relocation Worldwide When your family is looking to move, trust your worldly possessions to the professionals at Crown. 02-796-5717

Accessories

Only takes1 minute

02-796-9052

On hats &luggagetags

Burger King

International ArcadeItaewonMarket

McDonald’sNoksapyeong Hannam-dong

Ambrosia Customized Embroidery You write it, he’ll sew it! It only takes a minute to have your name or message embroidered on hats, luggage tags, backpacks, T-shirts, ties and jackets. 56-9, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. mrnameonhat.co.kr 02-796-9052

Travel Agencies

Cosmo.jin Tour cosmojin.com 02-318-0345

Fides Travel fidestravel.co.kr 02-755-5470

JNC Travel Itaewon Itching to travel? This travel agent offers worldwide discount air tickets, hotels, professional counseling, and package goods. Mon - Fri 10 am - 7 pm, Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 1 - 5 pm. 02-796-9633

Unique Travel Itaewon uniquetravel.co.kr 02-792-0606

Xanadu Travel xanadu.co.kr 02-795-7771

Insurance

Samsung Fire and Marine Insurance Automobile and motorcycle insurance provided by one of Korea’s most reliable conglomerates. Also available; Life/Annuities, Business/Fire, Supplemental Medical, Travel Insurance. 010-3232-0625

Law Firm

A Few Good Lawyers

US & Korean AttorneysCivil & Criminal

JM Law Group Hard to find a good lawyer in Korea? We at JM Law Group will fight for your legal rights from employment disputes to business transactions. For a free consultation, please email us at [email protected]

Radio

FM 101.3American Forces Network AM 1530 / FM 102.7

Transportation

International Taxi (English Speaking) 1644-2255

Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000

Interactive Subway Map smrt.co.kr

Hotels/Accommodations

KoreaHotel.com Korea’s version of Expedia. koreahotel.com

4-5 STAR HOTELSAstoria 02-2268-7111COEX InterContinental 02-3452-2500Courtyard 02-2638-3000Grand InterContinental 02-555-5656JW Marriott 02-6282-6262Millenium Hilton 02-753-7788

SEOUL

Renaissance 02-555-0501Ritz-Carlton 02-3451-8000

HOSTELS

Yongsan ghbaenang.com 010-9071-4641

Guesthouse Korea Jongno guesthouseinkorea.com 02-3674-2205

Hongdae bebop-guesthouse.com, 070-8261-4835

Kim’s Guesthouse Hongdae kimsguesthouse.com 02-337-9894

Namu Guesthouse Hongdae namugh.co.kr 070-8291-4878

Olympic Parktel Jamsil parktel.co.kr/english 02-410-2114

Myeongdong seoulbackpackers.com 02-3672-1972

Museums

Gahoe Museum gahoemuseum.org 02-741-0466

World Jewelry Museum wjmuseum.com 02-730-1610

Kimchi Field Museum kimchimuseum.co.kr 02-6002-6456

Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art Kyunginart.co.kr 02-733-4448

Leeum Samsung Museum of Art leeum.org 02-2014-6901

Museum of Korean Traditional Music ncktpa.go.kr 02-580-3130

National Folk Museum nfm.go.kr 02-3704-3114

National Museum of Korea museum.go.kr 02-2077-9000

National Palace Museum of Korea gogung.go.kr 02-3701-7500

Seoul Art Center sac.or.kr 02-580-1300

Seoul Museum of Art seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr 02-120

Seoul National Science Museum ssm.go.kr 02-3668-2200

War Memorial warmemo.or.kr 02-709-3139

Korean Tours

Adventure Korea adventurekorea.com 018-242-5536

Korean Safari koreansafari.com 019-542-2955

Korean Cooking Classes with Ms. Chang Want to do more than sightseeing? How about taking a Korean cooking class? This is your chance to experience the everyday meals of a Korean family. koreancookingclasses.blogspot.com 010-7193-2068

O’ngo Culinary Tours Korean food tours and cooking classes in Seoul. Tours and classes are taught by Korean food experts. Experience the culture through the cuisine. ongofood.com 010-6661-7769

raskb.com 02-763-9483

USO DMZ Tours affiliates.uso.org/korea 02-795-3028

WOW Corea Tour wowcoreatour.com 02-739-3337

Medical Services

A Plus Dental aplusnetworks.co.kr 02-3442-7616

Hus Hu Dental & Skin Clinic hus-hu.com 02-519-8013

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Are you suffering from back or neck pain? Visit the non-surgical spinal specialists. jaseng.net 02-3218-2167

Korea Counseling Psychological

Association krcpa.or.kr 02-498-8293

Korea HIV/AIDS Prevention & Support Center khap.org 02-927-4322

New York Wholistic Care Dr. Vincent Jong, an experienced New York chiropractor, uses pilates/yoga and body balancing therapy to help you reenergize your mind and achieve optimal health. F2, 736-21 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. nywc.co.kr 02-792-2296

Ra Dental Clinic 02-569-8745

Tufts Dental Clinic 02-553-7512

WY Dentistry Gangnam Better than your dentist back home. Dr. Yoo is a US-trained and licensed dentist with over 20 years of clinical dental experience serving the expat community since 1996. wydent.com 02-514-5575

Religious

BUDDHIST

Seoul International Zen Center seoulzen.org 02-900-4326

Meditation Center 02-735-5347

Jetavana Meditation Center [email protected] 02-595-5115

CATHOLIC

02-928-2049/02-924-2706

Chunma 02-765-0870

Dongducheon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706

Hannam International Church English, Italian, Spanish, French 02-793-2070

Hyewha-dong Catholic Church

02-764-0221 (press 6)Jinjob 02-928-2049/02-924-2706Keumchon 02-928-2049/02-924-2706Philippine Center Tagalog 02-765-0870Pastral Center for Labor English, Vietnamese, Thai 02-924-2721

Salesio Labor Center Tagalog, Daelim 1 dong 02-765-0870

Sung-dong Social Welfare Center Tagalog 02-765-0870

Yoksam-dong Church 02-553-0801Catholics in South Korea Facebook Group, Annamarie at [email protected]

SEOUL DIRECTORY

SEOUL


ISLAM

Seoul Central Masjid 02-794-7307

PROTESTANT

Gwanglim Church 02-2056-5732

International Lutheran 02-794-6274

Jubilee Church 02-569-2293

Kumnan Church 02-490-7000

Myungsung Presbyterian 02-440-9000

New Philadelphia Church newphiladelphiachurch.com 02-706-2501

Onnuri Church 02-793-9686

Presbyterian Church of the Lord empcl.org 010-2266-6453

Somang Presbyterian 02-512-9191

Seoul Union Church 02-333-7393

Yoido Full Gospel Church 02-782-4851

02-796-0284

Classes

Access Consciousness What if the life you imagined was actually possible? Regular classes held in Seoul & around Korea. Contact Nate at 010-6285-6283 or [email protected]

Feel the 105°F heat of the original Bikram Yoga with 90-minute classes taught by passionate instructors. Behind the Kyobo Tower building, Sinnonhyeon Stn. (line 9, ex. 7). bikramyogakorea.co.kr 02-532-2101

Morning, afternoon, and evening classes, plus Sunday classes at the Well Being Studio. [email protected]

Fine Art Class Myeongdong 7 -1 pm Fridays. cafe.daum.net/artd 02-771-2026

Itaewon Dance your days away with a diverse selection of classes available: child ballet, yoga, tae bo, yoga for pregnant women, pilates, diet dance, and even salsa classes. Private training available. Mon–Fri open 9 am–10 pm. 124-7 Itaewon-dong, yongsan-gu. 010-9309-9021

International Guides of Korea Courses in ice climbing, rock climbing and more. iguidekorea.com

Jai Center for Yoga and Health jaicenter.co.kr 02-3443-9642

Pottery Classes at Yido Academy Gahoe-dong in Seoul. Fri 10 - 12 am. [email protected] 02-744-0756

Salsa Lessons in English Top Bar near Apgujeong St. Call Crys at 010-4755-4728

Sanirang Alpine Networks This climbing service offers lessons, clinics, and guided tours. sanirang.net/about.html, [email protected]

Suseonjae Meditation and Deep

[email protected] 019-201-5958

Wise-Up Workouts Lose weight and get lean in less than 30 days guaranteed? Author and creator of the No. 1 gym-free program is now in Korea. 1 to 1 service. Grab the book “Wise-Up Workouts” at www.wiseupworkouts.com 010-4998-8722

Community

Also known as Brasileiros em Seul, this group meets up on the 3rd Tuesday of each month. [email protected] 010-9631-2133

Gangnam Hills Toastmasters Club Helping you develop oral communication and leadership skills. [email protected] 010-8779-1969

Republicans Abroad Monthly meetings, events, and lectures for supporters of the USA Republican Party. [email protected] 010-8688-9810

Restaurants

AMERICAN

Chili King Itaewon Beefy burgers and chili served up by owner Kevin Cyr. 02-795-1303

Just behind Itaewon Hotel and under Gecko’s Garden, Bonji Bistro offers a terrific menu of salads, sandwiches, pastas and classic tapas along with an unbeatable bar. The floor-to-ceiling window door-walls open wide, making it the perfect place to be for their delicious weekend brunch. geckosterrace.com 02-795-9656

FRESHLY GROUND BEEFFRESHLY GROUND BEEF

Burgers are cooked up on their imported rotagrill. Hand-made burgers have become all the craze in Korea, and these are some dam good ones. est1894.com 02-792-1894

The Frypan 02-794-5598

Gallery Through Head here to enjoy fantastic meals, parties, art, and people. 02-798-1900

Gecko’s Terrace The original Itaewon foreigner hangout, with a comfortable atmosphere, delicious food including great sandwiches, salads and pasta, and English-speaking staff that know how to make cocktails and shots right. geckosterrace.com 02-749-9425

Gecko’s Garden Legendary for its gorgeous home-style atmosphere, Gecko’s Garden has now started offering a delicious buffet, with steaks and pasta made to order. Don’t worry; the tapas menu is also still alive and well. geckosterrace.com 02-790-0540

SEOUL


Hollywood Grill The place for Premier League Football and other sports, Hollywood has a great menu of pizza, pasta and steaks along with darts, foosball, pool and Golden Tee. hollywoodgrill.co.kr 02-749-1659

FUSION RESTAURANT

TEL: 02.749.0508

Noksapyeong

Station Exit 2

Kimchi Pots

Gyeongridan

Indigo A cozy cafe boasting terrific international favorites like their chicken pesto sandwich and a legendary weekend brunch at great prices. Free wifi. 02-749-0508

Naked Grill Terrific Mexican food, salads and steaks, cooked up to order in a trendy atmosphere. 02-749-4225

Pancakes Original Story Itaewon Mon – Sat 9 am – 10 pm. 02-794-0508

Pita Time Haebangchon The salads, pitas and pizzas here provide a low-calorie, healthy meal. 11 am - 10 pm. pitatime.co.kr 02-790-8891

The Pizza Peel Itaewon Offering fresh classic Italian and Western-style pizzas. Enjoy with beer or wine. We are hard to find but easy to remember! Dine in or take out. 02-795-3283

Suji’s Itaewon Great American fare in a New York-style bistro atmosphere. sujis.net 02-797-3698

Chef Choi from Hawaii serves a delightful brunch along with his signature burgers, sandwiches, and more. Wine W2,500 for ladies. Wednesdays wing night: 10 for W3,000. 02-749-8005

Toque Itaewon 02-794-3834AUSTRIANChef Meili Itaewon 02-797-3820BRAZILIANCopacabana Itaewon For only W29,000 you get all-you-can-eat of 7 different cuts of roasted meat and a tremendous Brazilian buffet. Make your reservations today! 02-796-1660

BULGARIANZelen Itaewon 02-749-0600CHINESEHo Lee Chow Serving up the best North American-style Chinatown cuisine in Korea since 1998, with 5 convenient locations in the greater Seoul area to serve you. holeechow.co.kr. Itaewon 02-793-0802, Apgujeong 02-514-1730 Jamshil 02-411-0688, Dogok 02-3461-4468, Bundang 02-711-9071

FRENCHLa Cigale Monmartre Itaewon 02-796-1244

Le Saint-Ex Itaewon 02-795-2465

ITALIANFradia Gangnam Gaze out on a panoramic view of the Seoul skyline as you dine on choice Italian food at this cafe floating on the Han River. fradia.co.kr 02-3477-0033

Itaewon We can’t decide whether it’s a cafe, pastry shop, deli, or wine bar, but what we are sure about is that the food is fresh and the taste is divine. labocca.co.kr 02-790-5907

Sortino’s Cucina Itaewon Classic Italian trattoria cuisine in a comfortable, homey atmosphere. 02-797-0488

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong 02-790-0776

Villa Sortino’s Itaewon An incredible Tuscan Villa interior matches perfectly with some delicately prepared Italian flavors. Just across from the Itaewon fire station. 02-553-9000

KOREAN Delicious Korean-

style barbecue at locations throughout Seoul including Gangnam, Myeong-dong (02-319-3351), Seoul Station, and Times Square. 11:30 am - 10 pm. bulgogibros.com

Maple Tree House (단풍나무집) Itaewon Classy Korean BBQ in the alley just behind the Hamilton Hotel (other branches are located in Samcheong-dong and Dogok-dong). 116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-7977

Pulhyanggi Gangnam A tasty concoction of traditional Korean dishes and a contemporary slow-food sensibility, plus performances in the evenings. Close to COEX. 11 am – 10 pm. pulhyanggi.co.kr 02-539-3390

MEXICANAmigos Itaewon 02-795-9711

The #1 American chain hits that craving for fajitas, chimichangas, tacos, burritos, enchiladas and even margaritas. ontheborder.co.krSinchon: 02-324-0682COEX: 02-565-0682Times Square: 02-2672-0682

Pancho’s Itaewon 02-792-4767Taco Amigo Itaewon 02-749-5253Tomatillo Grill Locations at Jonggak Stn., Samseong Stn., and Yeoksam Stn. tomatillo.co.kr 02-734-9225

MIDDLE EASTERNIstanbul Noksapyeong 02-796-0271

Marakech Nights Itaewon 02-795-9441

Petra Itaewon 02-790-4433

SPANISH Jamsil With flamenco on every

Friday. bodega.co.kr 02-3432-8686

THAI

Itaewon A lounge atmosphere with full bar and cocktails along with great authentic Thai food. 02-796-9330

Eat Me Itaewon Thai fusion dining and lounge, late night kitchen in Itaewon. Relax in the intimate yet casual dining area and outside patio. Sophisticated atmosphere is sure to please. 070-7624-3149

My Thai Itaewon 02-794-8090

Thai Orchid Itaewon 02-517-1135

Thai Garden Itaewon 02-792-8836

Wang Thai Itaewon Prepared by locally trained chefs, Wang Thai offers only the

SEOUL DIRECTORY

ADVERTISE IN OUR DIRECTORY!

It’s inexpensive and helps expats and tourists find YOU!

[email protected] or 02-3447-1610

SEOULSEOUL


best of Thai food. Enjoy delicious food in an exotic ambience. 02-749-2746~7

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

WINE BARS

Dulce Y Suave Garosugil Stop by this classy Sinsa-dong wine bar for an extensive wine list that won’t break your budget. 5 pm - 3 am. club.cyworld.com/dulceysuave. 02-515-6750

Vin Ga Apgujeong Immaculate service and a subdued atmosphere make this the wine bar of choice for dinner parties and business meetings. Podo Plaza building near Apgujeong St. podoplaza.co.kr 02-516-1761

LOUNGES / PUBS3 Alley Pub Itaewon Rub shoulders with long-term Seoul expats and try your hands at darts or pool in this comfortable foreigner-owned pub. 116-15 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 3alleypub.com 02-749-3336

Itaewon Luxurious wine and tapas bar in the basement of the JW Marriot in Gangnam. Happy hour Tue - Thu 6 - 9 pm. 02-6282-6763

PIZZA

BAR

I T A E W O N

w w w. b e e r o c l o c k . c a

TWO GREAT LOCATIONS

S H I N C H O NTEL:(02)3339733

TEL:(02)7920007

Beer O’Clock The bar in Sinchon has darts and several sports on big-screen TVs with great food. The Kyeongnidan location will satisfy your Canadian-style pizza needs. Beer O’Clock serves up good times. Sinchon: 02-333-9733

Berlin Noksapyeong Combining a restaurant, cafe and lounge, Berlin boasts a varied menu, plus wines and all types of music. Noksapyeong St. (line 6). 457-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. [email protected] 02-749-0903

Itaewon One of the most hopping bars in Itaewon on any given night, with guest DJs and a good vibe. 7 pm - 3 am. 02-749-6164

Between Itaewon This multi-level lounge serves contemporary Italian and Spanish mains, lunch, brunch and tapas in a sophisticated atmosphere with live DJs and a spacious terrace. 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong. 02-795-6164

Itaewon Fresh beats by DJ Shine and a reasonably priced menu. Itaewon. 4 pm – 4 am. 02-798-1125

Hongdae, Itaewon Chill out at either of BricX’s two locations. Hongdae 6 pm – 5 am, 마포구 서교동 409-1, B1, 02-3141-5571. Itaewon 7 pm – 5 am, 용산구 이태원동 119-10, B1, bricx.com 02-795-5572

Itaewon This quirky beach-themed bar has sand on the floor, swinging chairs, and candle-lit rooms. 02-793-2344

Cheongdam-dong A Japanese franchise, they may just have the best bartenders in town. Mon – Sat 6 pm - 2 am. 02-516-1970

The Concorde Classic and cozy, this wine and martini bar offers an intimate and timeless atmosphere. Reuben sandwiches, quiche, soups and salads available till 1:00 am. 02-749-1210

Craftworks Taphouse Itaewon Whet your whistle with fine craft beers including Korea’s first IPA, and stave off your appetite with some great eats. craftworkstaphouse.com 02-794-ALESGOOD TIMES

GOOD FOOD

Gecko’s Terrace, Bonji Bistro, Gecko’s GardenGecko’s Uyeong Plaza Tel 031 262 9974Haeundae Beach Pale de CZ Tel 051 747 3069Island Gecko’s Jungmun Tel 064 739 0845

ItaewonJukjeonBusanJeju

L O C A T I O N S

Proudly supplied by Kobeak Foods©

SEOUL DIRECTORYSEOULSEOUL


Dillinger’s A classic-styled bar with seven beers on tap, great food and drink specials. Come enjoy our large flatscreen TVs, dartboards and Wii games. A great atmosphere for you and your friends. 02-793-7232

Hollywood Grill Itaewon One of Itaewon’s oldest sports bars, it also has some of Itaewon’s finest pub grub. 123-33 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-749-1659

Noxa Lounge Noksapyeong Great home-style Italian cuisine and all-day brunch with an extensive wine, cocktail and beer selection. This is the best that Noksapyeong/Gyeongnidan has to offer. More info on Facebook: “Noxa Lounge.” 02-790-0776

Phillies Haebangchon The legendary local bar is now remodeled and under new ownership. Great burgers and wings. 02-793-2548

Platoon Kunsthalle Apgujeong Showcasing underground artists and a fine selection of cutting-edge performances. 11 am – 1 am. Closed Sun. 97-22 Gangnam-gu, Nonhyeon-dong. kunsthalle.com 02-3447-1191

Rocky Mountain Tavern Itaewon Canadians feel right at home with all the hockey jerseys hanging on the walls and great live music and events, along with some of the best buffalo wings in Korea. Don’t miss the Stand Up Seoul comedy night the first Thursday of each month. rockymountaintavern.com 010-5775-2327

Roofers Itaewon Come hang out in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Sample the mouthwatering menu, relax on the spacious rooftop and enjoy numerous expat events. Facebook: Roofers Rooftop Bar. 02-749-2970

Sam Ryan’s Itaewon This newcomer to

the Itaewon scene offers sports fans eight flat screens throughout the bar along with the meanest plate of pork ribs to be found in Seoul. samryans.com 02-749-7933

Scrooge Pub/Dicken’s Lounge Itaewon A great little sports bar with pool, darts, delicious food and plenty of English-speaking staff. 02-797-8201

Seoul Pub Crawl Meet cool people, play drinking games and party all night long. Where the bars get louder, the drinks get cheaper and the people get better looking. www.seoulpubcrawl.webs.com 010-5839-9257

Seventy Four Cheongdam-dong A beautiful date spot featuring exotic drinks such as cheese martinis, banana mojitos and cuba libres. 7 pm – 4 am. 02-542-7412

Itaewon Home of W6000 Guinness & Kilkenny on tap. Non–smoking environment with authentic Aussie food, beer & wine with Monday open mic and Wednesday comedy night. tonysitaewon.com 02-790-0793

Wolfhound Itaewon Terrific Irish/British classic food in a true Irish Pub atmo-sphere, including shepherd’s pie, toad in a hole, fish n’ chips, bangers n’ mash along with Guinness and Kilkenny on draft. wolfhoundpub.com 02-749-7971

Cafes

Whether it’s coffee, gelato, or a waffle you’re looking for, you can find it at one of the 400 Caffé Bene outlets across Korea. caffebene.co.kr 02-3438-6888

Caribou Coffee Popular in America, Caribou Coffee has expanded to Korea with locations at Ewha University, Sinchon, Yangjae, and Incheon Airport. Support fair trade with the Rainforest Alliance Certified coffee sold here. cariboukorea.co.kr 02-3461-5680

Gourmet Foods

High Street Market Itaewon Fresh-baked bread, choice beef cuts, imported cheese, and value-for-money wines, and all in one shop. 737-24 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu. 02-790-5450

Live Music

JAZZAll That Jazz Itaewon 02-795-5701

58 | 10 Magazine May 2011

SEOUL DIRECTORY

SEOUL


Cheonnyeondongando (천년동안도) Daehangno (Hyehwa St. Line4) chunnyun.com 02-743-5555

Club Evans Hongdae clubevans.com 02-337-8361

Club Palm Hongdae clubpalm.co.kr 02-336-9016

Apgujeong onceinabluemoon.co.kr 02-549-5490

LINE 2Samseong

Stn.

Line 2Samseong

Stn.

InterContinentalHotel

Teheranno

OakwoodPremier

HyundaiDepartment Store

WooriBank

COEX

Tokyo Jazz Authentic jazz music performed Mon-Sat, 9:30 pm - 12:30 am by European, American, and Korean musicians. Two minute’s walking distance from the COEX and Grand InterContinental Hotels. 153-44 Samsung-dong. 02-3453-4472

ROCKFreebird Hongdae cafe.navercom/clubfreebird 02-335-4576

Jammers Hongdae jammers.co.kr 02- 325-3914

Apgujeong justblues.co.kr 02-542-4788

SoundHolic Hongdae cafe.daum.net/SoundHolic 02-3142-4233

Massage

Healing Hands Massage Studio healinghands.co.kr 070-7504-8090

Beauty

Jay’s Hairdressing Itaewon. Stylists trained at Tony&Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy bring out the best in your hair. 2F 126-17 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu. 070-4227-6158

All staff are qualified by VIDAL SASSOON.

Become a model and get a FREE make over.

Mon~Sat: 10 am–9 pmAppointment onlyTel. 02-512-3798~9

Marie&M Gangnam The right haircut makes all the difference! All staff at this salon are qualified by Vidal Sassoon. 02-512-3798

Tony&Guy Whether it’s a cut, highlight, low light, or hair spa that you want, you’re guaranteed to get professional

service from the English-speaking stylists at Toni & Guy. Near Hongik University. 02-338-2773

Clubs

HamiltonHotel

PoliceStation

KB BankFire Station

Itaewon Station

[ Itaewon Station Exit 3 ] Tel: 793.2333

Club

America Latina Itaewon opens at 8 pm Wednesdays to Sundays and offers Salsa classes. Check Facebook group: Club America Latina in Seoul.

Answer Cheongdam-dong After a short-lived stint as gala restaurant Le Nuit Blanche, the club we all know and love is back. clubanswer.co.kr 02-514-4311

Hongdae Great Japanese curry during the day and soju cocktails at night. Hit up the weekend parties. 360-18 Seokyo-Dong, Mapo-Gu. 02-3142-5301

Eden Gangnam Mega club with top DJs, sizzling sound, and model nights. 역삼동 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Ritz Carlton Hotel. eden-club.co.kr 010-9913-3919

Function Itaewon The boutique club hidden in the fancy Macaroni Market restaurant. Tue, Wed, Thu 6 pm – 2:30 am; Fri and Sat 6 pm-3:30 am. 737-50 Hannnam1-dong Yongsan-gu. 02-749-9181

Heaven Gangnam The newest member of Seoul’s club scene combines top-notch technology with divine DJs spinning house and electro beats. W30,000 general admission, W40,000 for after club hours. Near Yeoksam St. clubheaven.co.kr 02-3444-4997

J.J. Mahoney’s The drinks don’t come cheap, but this nightclub at the Grand Hyatt is a favorite with the over-30s crowd. 747-7 Hannam 2-dong. seoul.grand.hyatt.com 02-797-1234

Apgujeong Hip music for a classy crowd. 664-11 Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu. 02-518-5115

Volume Itaewon A true “music lovers” club, Volume is found in the basement of Crown Hotel. Fri and Sat 9 pm - 6 am. W15,000 - W30,000. Crown Hotel B1 clubvolume.com 1544-2635

Tattoos

Sunrat Tattoo Hongdae The guys behind the Inkbomb Tattoo Convention bring you old school tattoos, bright colors, and more. Open 1 - 9 pm. 2F Brotherworld, 325-25 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. sunrattattoo.com 02-336-5698

116-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul11:30 am – 10:30 pm, Tel: 02-790-7977

31-1 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, SeoulTel: 02-730-7461, 11:30 am – 10:30 pm (2:30 – 5:30 pm Mon–Fri Break time)

Itaewon

Samcheong-dong Street

MyungseongMarket

Bar 1010

MougleHamilton

Hotel

Itaewon Stn. exit.1

KFC

Samcheong-dong

464 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, SeoulTel: 574-4468, 11:30 am- 10:30 pm

MaebongStn. exit.3

SK Leader’s View

Dogok-dong3rd Maple Tree House

Now openin DOGOK-DONG

3rd Maple Tree HouseNow open

in DOGOK-DONG

Check Out Cheonan

DISCOV ERY

Mosey on Over to Mureung Valley Though not quite as grand as the Grand Canyon, Dong-hae has an impressive valley that’s worth a trek.

Sweat? Check. Pulsing legs? Check. Inability to speak due to lack of oxygen? Check. One gorgeous view from a mountain ridge? Massive check!

After climbing what seems to be a million stairs, a friend and I finally reach the ridge we set out for in Mureung Valley (무릉계곡). We look across the basin to rock shards jutting up from the opposite peak and reaching for the warm afternoon sunlight. The Seonnyeotang Ravine (선녀탕계곡) plays hide and seek through the forest, laden with deciduous trees and evergreens.

Although lacking the expansiveness of the Grand Canyon, Mureung Valley does not disappoint, whether you’re looking to explore, hike, or simply relax. Lounging lovers can loosen up on the sprawling flat rocks (Mureung Banseok, 무릉반석) and splash in the ravine. Temple aficionado? The charming stone bridge just up from the entrance will lead you to the thousand-year-old Samhwa Temple (삼화사), bordered by Mt. Duta and Mt. Cheong-ok. Walk a little further and you’ll find the begin-ning of most hikes in the park.

These climbs may not be challenging for the veteran trail pounder, but they will suit most just fine. The hike to Twin Falls (쌍폭포) is great if you’re just looking for a nice stroll, or you can head up to Yongchu Falls (용추폭포) if you have two hours

of time to play with. There are also full day hikes mapped out for those seeking some serious trail time in Mureung Valley. GET TING THERE From Donghae, take any bus that begins with 12. The journey is about an hour. If you’re driving from Donghae, simply follow the brown signs that say Mureung Valley (무릉계곡). 9 am – 6 pm (summer 8 pm) Adult W1,500, Teens W1,000, Children W600.Samhwa-dong, Donghae-si, Gangwon-do. 033-534-7306 (Korean) WOR DS AND SHOTS BY JUDITH ANN CLA NCY


GANGWON

GANGWON PROVINCE


wonju.inter-burgo.com 033-766-8000

W Hotel Wonju w-hotel.co.kr 033-742-5454


Chuncheon Online Info tour.chuncheon.go.kr/eng

Libraries

Chuncheon City Library iccl.or.kr 033-254-3887

Taebaek Municipal Library tbmlib.or.kr 033-550-2755

Medical Services

Gangwon National University Hospital Chuncheon knuh.or.kr/html/index.asp 033-258-2000

Gangnam Hospital Chuncheon ekangnam.co.kr 033-240-7000

Hyundai Animal Clinic Chuncheon dog7582.co.kr 033-256-7582

Ye Dental Clinic Chuncheon ccye.co.kr 033-262-2078

Restaurants

Acozza Cafe Wonju Classy pizzas served in chic industrial décor. acozza.co.kr 033-766-7999

ArtThrough September 25thDonggang International Photo Festival Against the beautiful backdrop of Donggang, take part in exhibitions, workshops, portfolio reviews, and more. Donggang Photography Museum in Yeongwol-gun. W500 - W1,000. dgphotofestival.com 033-370-2227

PerformancesThrough November 27thArirang Music Theatre Every 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th, you can experience Korea’s history through folk songs including Arirang. Jeongsun Cultural Art Center. 4:40 pm. muyonsi.com 033-560-2548

July 28th - August 7thThe Great Mountains International Music Festival & School (GMMFS)Organized by the government of South Korea, this festival offers an exceptional experience with classical music. Alpensia Concert Hall. Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 7:30 pm. Sun 5 pm. W40,000 - W50,000 gmmfs.com 02 -725-3394

August 8th - 15thChuncheon Puppet Festival About 70 teams of puppeteers are ready to satisfy your expectations. There most definitely are strings attached here! Chuncheon Puppet Theatre. cocobau.com 033-242-8450

August 11th - 14thKorea Music Festival As one of the biggest music festivals in Korea, it features the country’s biggest k-pop stars and provides you a chance to become a star yourself through auditions. Chungho Lake Stage. koreamusicfestival.net 033-639-2144

FilmJuly 29th - August 7thTaebaek Cool Cinema Festival Of course, film-watching is to be expected but there will be also be a water festival and other experiences to cool you off this hot summer. O2 Resort Ski House & Center Street in Taebaek. Adults W2,000. Students W1,000. Free until 3 pm. festival.taebaek.go.kr 033-550-2085

Family & CommunityJuly 29th - August 7thGohan Hambaek Mountain Wildflower Festival Plant wildflowers in the ground or capture them in a picture frame. Gohan Wild Flower Village in Jeongseon-gun. gogohan.go.kr 011-371-4035

July 30th - August 7thJangsa Harbor Squid Festival At this unique festival, you can catch squid with your bare hands. Jangsa Harbor in Sokcho. W15,000. jangsahang.com 010-4327-4819

August 4th - 7th

Melania Snail Festival This is a great opportunity to get out of the city, have fun with your family, and find out what in the world melania are (daseulgi in Korean, a type of snail). Gimhwa-eup, Cheolwon-gun. daslgi.kr 033-450-5724

August 5th - 7thHwacheon Tomato Festival Visit Hwacheon to find out how much fun you can have with tomatoes, one of Hwacheon’s

main products. Hwacheon Sachang Culture Town. tomatofestival.co.kr 033-440-2375

August 30th - September 4thChuncheon Makguksu & Dalkgalbi Festival At Chuncheon, you can taste makguksu and dalkgalbi, the most famous local dishes. The restaurants are around Songam Sports Town. mdfestival.com 033-250-4347

Sport & FitnessK-League Football August 6th Gangwon vs Jeonbuk at Gangneung Stadium, 7 pm

October 23thChuncheon Int’l Marathon Full marathon, to depart from Chuncheon Gongjichun Civil Park at 9 am. W40,000. Register by August 30th. marathon.chosun.com 02-724-6333

GANGWON CALENDAR

Kor

n

GYEONGGI CALENDAR

Art

OngoingThe Year of the Rabbit This exhibit of traditional Korean artifacts that depict rabbits also shows rabbits that have appeared recently in Korean media, including Mashimaro, a popular animated character created by Kim Jae-in. Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. 10 am - 6 pm. Free. musenet.or.kr 031-288-5300

Through August 18th2011 MBC Trick Art Exhibition: Season 2 As season 1 focused on tricky paintings, this season will bring special exhibits filled with technology and motion. 3 Hall at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000. mbctrickart.co.kr 1566-1369

Rhythm of Africa: Exhibition Experience Africa with the sculptures and photos on display and the performances held here, all inspired by the Tears of Africa documentary broadcast on MBC. Hall 3 at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm. W9,000 - W11,000. tearsafrica.com 031-810-8114

Through August 23rdScience in Art: The Secret of the Mona Lisa Scientific techniques are used to reinterpret famous artistic masterpieces and make them come alive for children as well as adults. Seongnam Arts Center (Bundang). 10:30 am - 7:30 pm. W12,000. cafe.naver.com/clalice 1577-4356

Through August 28thColor X Art X Play X 3 Contemporary Korean artists play around with color in this colorful exhibition. Oulim Art Museum 1 & 2 Exhibition Hall at Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Goyang near Wondang Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W5,000 - W6,000. artgy.or.kr 031-960-9730

Through September 4thSystem-Pia Exhibition This exhibition will be a chance to peer inside the “operating system” of our society. 1 Exhibition Hall at Young-eun Museum of Contemporary Art in Gwangju. 10 am - 6 pm. Closed Mon. W2,000 - W4,000. youngeunmuseum.org 031-761-0137

Through September 25thRoyal Academicians Exhibition See some of the finest works of the English artists who are currently members of the Royal Academy of Art. Cube Art Museum at Seongnam Arts Center near Imae Stn. (Bundang line, ex.1). 10:30 am - 7:30 pm. W3,000 - W6,000. snart.or.kr 031-783-8000

Through September 30thForgotten War, Division of CountryCommemorating the 60th anniversary of the Korean War, this exhibition has been extended through September. 4 Exhibition Hall at National Museum of Contemporary Art. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 9 pm. Free. moca.go.kr 02-2188-6000

Theater & Dance

OngoingSaturday Performance at HwaseongHead down to Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon for court dancing, folk music, tight-rope walking, and more. Shinpungnu Square at Hwaseonghaenggung. Every Saturday at 2 pm. hs.suwon.ne.kr 031-251-4435

Through August 14thLiar 3: The Play This play explores how one little lie can grow into something monstrous. In Korean. Saerasae Theatre at Goyang Aram Nuri Arts Center. Weekdays 8 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 7 pm. Closed Mon. W25,000. artgy.or.kr 1577-7766

Through December 24th2011 Vision: Our Dance Watch Korean dancers demonstrate their repertoire of

traditional pieces. Cozy Small Theatre at Gyeonggi Arts Center. 5 pm. 90 min. W5,000 - W10,000. ggac.or.kr 031-230-3313

August 5th - 7thHansel and Gretel: The Opera The Grimm Brothers’ fairy tale is respun as a kid-friendly opera. Oulim Nuri Arts Center in Goyang. Wondang Stn. (line 3, ex. 4). Fri 7:30 pm, Weekends 3 & 5:30 pm. 80 min. W20,000 - W50,000. artgy.or.kr 02-2659-4100

August 13th - 21stHwaseong Fortress Theater Festival Performance troupes from five countries in addition to Korea will be bringing theater, dance, and non-verbal shows to the stage at Hwaseong Haenggung Square in Suwon. suwontheatre.or.kr 031-238-6496

August 19th - 20thLove Potion: The Opera In this comic story, three characters are fooled by a fraudulent love potion dealer. Grand Theatre at Seongnam Citizen Hall. Fri 8 pm, Sat 2 pm. 120 min. W20,000 - W30,000. imwbk.com 02-2232-1148

August 20th - 24thThe Wizard of Oz: The MusicalChildren are ripped out of their seats and hurled with Dorothy into the wonderful world of Oz. In Korean. Ensemble Theatre at Seongnam Arts Center near Imae Stn. (Bundang line, ex.1). 11 am & 2 & 4 pm, Sun 11 am & 2 pm. Closed Mon. 60 min. W20,000. snart.or.kr 1566-9921

Concerts

August 5thSuper Traxx Concert Organized to celebrate the upcoming World Championships in Daegu and energize the athletes, this concert will feature performances by famous artists from Korea and abroad. Incheon Dream Park. 7 - 11 pm. W88,000. super-traxx.com 1544-1555

August 5th - 7th

Pentaport Rock Festival Incheon, a port city which used to be the mecca of rock before Hongdae, invites you to a fantastic three-day-long rock festival with major artists such as Korn, Plain White T’s, and Neon Trees. Camping is available for W10,000. Incheon Dream Park. W79,200 - W165,000. pentaportrock.com 1544-1555

August 19th - 20thMusic World with Papa Haydn Revisit the peak of the classical period with two nights of pure Haydn performed by the Haydn Prime Orchestra. Grand Theatre at Gunpo Culture and Art Center. Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 5 pm. 100 min. W10,000. gunpoart.net 031-390-3501

August 20th and 28th2011 Han-Na Chang’s Absolute Classic III Famous cellist and conductor Han-Na Chang is back with an improved version of her yearly project Absolute Classic. Seongnam Art Center. 5 pm. W10,000 - W50,000. ticket.interpark.com 02-1544-8117

August 27thKim Yeon-u Concert Singer Kim Yeon-u demonstrated his vocal talents on the popular elimination show “I’m a Singer.” Opera House at Seongnam Arts Center near Imae Stn. (Bundang line, ex.1). 3 & 7 pm. 150 min. W77,000 - W99,000. snart.or.kr 1688-6675


July 26th - October 16th ArtFrench contemporary art is the focus of this new exhibit at the National Museum of contemporary Art, Korea. Marcel Duchamp, after whom the award was named, is a French art-ist who is considered to be a pioneer of contemporary art as well as one of the most influential artists of the 20th century. His work is often associated with the Dadaist and Surrealist movements. Works such as Nude Descending a Staircase, No. 2 and Fountain (a urinal placed on a pedestal) challenged the artistic standards of the times and inspired future generations of artists. Duchamp also inspired the Marcel Duchamp Prize, which was first awarded in 2000 by The ADIAF (l’Association pour la Diffusion Internationale de l’Art Français) with the goal of supporting French artists and stimulating creativity in con-temporary art. The award is concerned with every means of expression and includes the genres of painting, sculpture, in-stallation, photography and video.More than 90 works by the 16 winners and nominees for this annual award will be exhibited, giving visitors an unparalleled chance to experience various aspects of French contemporary art. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (in Gwa-cheon). Seoul Grand Park Stn. (line 4, ex. 2). Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, Weekends 10 am - 9 pm, closed Mon. moca.go.kr/engN 02-2188-6114 WORDS BY A-RAN CHOI

French Art Today: Marcel Duchamp Prize Exhibit

EDITOR’S PICK

Foam Fountain, 2007, Rubbish bins / Foam-bath / compressor unit / plastic tubes, variable dimensions. Courtesy of the Artist and ArtConcept, ParisBlazy (born 1966) works mainly with food, trying to explore and capture the beauty of living things and the basic physical aspects of our existence.

Claude Leveque, Whirlwind, 1998, Three Wheels, 4m (diameter), Kamel Mennour Gallery. Courtesy of the artist and Kamel Mennour, Paris.Leveque (born 1953) mainly produces nostalgic works that evoke childhood memories. He has recently been involved with the creation of giant installations using sound, light and mist to allow the viewers of his works to experience them with their whole bodies.

If you can finish your portion of galbijjim here, your Korean friends will never ask whether you can eat spicy food again.

After spending a little time in Korea you’ll probably find that your definition of “spicy” has changed. So when deokbokki no longer tickles your taste buds, give your tongue a real challenge and head to in Uijeongbu. The restaurant has garnered fame for its most masochistic delight: the spicy galbijjim. This stew, which consists of fall-off-the-bone short ribs, potatoes, rice cake and mixed vegetables is sure to cause even the most arrogant heat lovers to break a sweat.

To cool you off, it comes with an array of side dishes: mixed green salads, kimchi, cucumber kimchi, dongchimi, and cold sprout soup (hint: the sprout soup is particularly effective at putting out the fire). A cup of fresh maeshil juice is served when you’re finished and makes the perfect sweet end to this hearty meal.

Don’t worry though; even if you’re not a fan of spicy food, Songchoo Gamagoll has something for everyone. As the chain is famous for its top-quality cuts of meat, the galbitang and BBQ beef selections are particularly noteworthy. At an aver-age price of W20,000 for two, you can’t get a better deal for

your money.Though Songchoo Gamagoll is

a chain, to get your hands on a pot of the spicy galbijjim you’ll need to head to the branch in front of the 2nd provincial office of Gyeo-nggi Province (near Home Plus) in Uijeongbu. The easiest way to get there is to take a taxi from Uijeongbu Station. Alternatively, you can take buses 2 or 23 in front of Uijeongbu station and get off in front of Home Plus. From there walk straight toward the provincial office and it’s on the left.764-4 Singok-dong, Uijeongbu-si, Gyeonggi-do. gamagoll.com 031-877-5000 WORDS AND SHOTS BY CURTIS FILE

Can You Handle the Heat?

FOODIE FIND

Religious Services

Grace & Truth Church Anyang, Ansan, and Suwon Sunday 9:30 am, 11 am, 1 pm, grace-truth.org 031-443-3731

Dongsan Church Ansan Sunday 11:30 am, 010-2910-7809

Museums

Central America Culture Center Goyang. latina.or.kr 031-962-7171

Elvis Presley Memorial Hall Paju paju.go.kr 031-948-3358

Face Museum Gwangju (Gyeonggi Province). visagej.org 031-765-3522

Museum Yongin deungjan.or.kr/eng 031-334-0797

Waltz & Dr. Mahn Coffee Museum Namyangju wndcof.com 031-576-6051

Transportation

International Taxi (English speaking) 1644-2255

Jumbo Taxi Service (more expensive) 02-888-2000

Radio

US Armed Forces NetworkDongducheon AM 1197/FM 88.3Pyongtaek AM 1440/FM 88.3Songtan AM 1359/FM 88.5Uijeongbu AM 1161/FM 88.5

Restaurants

Cafe Nicolia Bucheon European-style café and wine bar. cafenicolia.com 032-329-0526

La Mia Cucina Ilsan The kitchen is always open at this English-friendly Italian pub. 7 pm – 4 am. 010-2327-8882

First Nepal Restaurant Incheon firstnepal.com 032-525-8771

Bars/Lounges/Pubs

Suwon Chill out in a big way with the friendly crowd while enjoying a game of pool, darts, or wii. Opens 8 pm on Wed – Sat and 4 pm on Sun. Facebook group, [email protected]

The Park Bucheon 010-3136-0153Bucheon 032-323-0161

West Island Ilsan 031-917-2225

Jukjeon Gecko’s Yongin Bundang and Yongin expats should be ecstatic to know that the famous Gecko’s chain is expanding south. Near the Shinsegye department store. geckosterrace.com 031-262-9974

Clubs

Club Psycho Anyang bcmusicworld.com 010-7754-0409

GYEONGGI

Family & Community

Through August 18th“Hi Dino” Dinosaur Expo Everything about dinosaurs: from their extinction to the process of digging up their fossils. 2 Hall at KINTEX in Goyang (Ilsan). 10 am - 7 pm. W13,000 - W15,000. hidino.co.kr 1577-6190

Through August 23rd“Play with Sand” Exhibition Kids learn about sand through entertaining activities. Bupyeong Art Center in Incheon near Baegun Stn. (line 1, ex. 2). 1 - 6:20 pm. 70 min. W15,000. bpart.kr 032-500-2000.

Through August 27thSeolbong Mountain Starlight Festival Every Saturday night, spend time with your family at Seolbong Park and recover from the week’s fatigue. Outdoor Stage of Seolbong Park in Icheon. icheon.go.kr 031-644-2000

Through August 28thHantan River Water Festival Enjoy your vacation in the clean water of the Hantan River. Familiypia in Yeoncheon-gun. 10 am - 6 pm. W6,000 - W14,000. mulnori.kr 031-832-1379

Seoul Land Water Wars After a hilarious performance poking fun at Star Wars, soak your friends with water guns that you can borrow for free (W2,000 deposit required). 12 & 2 pm. Closed Mon. W24,000 - W31,000. seoulland.co.kr 02-509-6000

Through August 31stRice Paddy Pool Mud Festival Do you get the crazy urge to jump into every rice paddy you see? If so, this festival may be for you. Balamsae Village in Pyeongtaek. 10 am - 5 pm. W3,000. balamsae.com 031-663-5453

Through September 4thEverland Summer Splash Guests at Everland this summer can enjoy the splash and moonlight parades and puppet shows as well as the ordinary rides. W29,000 - W38,000. everland.com 031-320-5000

August 17th - 21stBucheon Comics Festival Get a glimpse into the future of the cartoon industry as you participate in the conferences and animation screenings at this festival. Bucheon Vision Cultural Complex. bicof.com 032-310-3134


August 20th - 29th Korea Student Invention ExhibitionSee some of the surprisingly creative inventions concocted by Korean students. Eoullim Hall at Gwacheon National Science Center. 10 am - 6 pm. kosie.net 02-3459-2752

Sport & Fitness

KBO BaseballGames are held at Munhak Stadium, home of the SK Wyverns.2nd - 4th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm5th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm6th - 7th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm12th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm13th - 14th vs Nexen Heroes 5 pm16th - 18th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm23th - 25th vs Doosan Bears 6:30 pm30th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm31th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm

K-League FootballAugust 6th Suwon vs Daejeonat Suwon World Cup Stadium, 7:30 pm


To inquire about getting a logobox for your business,

email us at [email protected] Top: acorn jelly salad

bottom: cucumber white kimchi

GYEONGGI PROVINCE


CHUNGCHEONG


Daejeon International Community Center dicc.or.kr 042-223-0789 Daejeon [email protected]

Classes

Yegok Natural Dye Workshop Okcheon-gun Dye clothing or make natural soap. yegok.co.kr 043-733-0978

Entertainment

O-World Amusement Park Daejeon oworld.kr 042-580-4820

Kumdori Land Daejeon kumdori.co.kr 042-862-4000

Religious Service

Central Presbyterian Church Nonsan 041-736-1002

Presbyterian Church Cheonan 041-555-5100

Central Presbyterian Church Gongju 041-855-0691

Sanseong Church Daejeon [email protected] 042-585-8111

Museums

Alcohol Museum: Liquorium Chungju liquorium.com 043-855-7333

Gonam Shell Mound Museum Taean-gun Anmyeon Island museum.taean.go.kr 041-670-2337

Jincheon Bell Museum Jincheon-gun jincheonbell.net 043-539-3850

Korea Traditional Architecture Museum Yesan-gun English site: ktam.or.kr 041-337-5877


New Korea Hotel Asan 041-542-8151Onyang Hot Spring Hotel Asan 041-545-2141

Cheonan Central Hotel Cheonan 041-564-9100

Yuseong Hotel Daejeon 042-822-9591 Seosan 011-382-1862

Golden Wave Taean 041-675-2008

Medical Services

Konyang International Health Care Center Daejeon kihcc.kyuh.co.kr 042-600-9978

Sun Hospital Daejeon 042-220-8000

Restaurants/Supermarkets

Gasan Korean, Cheonan 041-561-9500Spain House Spanish, Cheonan 041-571-7474

Olive Farms Buffet, Cheongju 043-215-3311

Bars/Lounges/PubsRolling Stones Cheonan 041-562-9824MJ Cheongju “MJ Bar” on Facebook. 043-273-8366

Road King Cheongju 010-8301-5936 Cheongwon 043-285-0399

Daejeon “The Daejeon Brickhouse” on Facebook, 010-9867-0921

J-Rock Daejeon 010-4564-7721Santa Claus Daejeon “Santa Claus 2008” on Facebook, 042-825-5500

The Shisha House Daejeon “Welcome to the Shisha House” on Facebook. 042-825-4157

Sponge Daejeon 042-471-3373

Live Music

Gyeryong042-841-0470Club In Sky 2 Daejeon 042-223-7117

CHUNGCHEONG PROVINCE

Art

Through August 28thMonet to Warhol Four different sections give visitors the chance to look through the works of Picasso, Monet, Lichtenstein and Warhol. Exhibition Halls 1 & 4 at the Daejeon Museum of Art. 10 am - 7 pm (Fri 9 pm). Closed Mon. W300 - W500. dmma.metro.daejeon.kr 042-602-3225

Concerts

August 11thParis and Romantic Music Young people who think classical music is boring may change their minds when they hear the Parisian romantic songs on the program at this concert. Art Hall at Daejeon Culture & Arts Center. 7:30 pm. 90 min. W5,000 - W10,000. djac.or.kr 042-610-2222

Family & Community

Through August 14thGomanaru Festival This festival held each years offers plenty of performances in various genres of arts like gugak, theatre and samulnori. Gomanaru Outdoor Stage in Gongju. tour.gongju.go.kr 041-840-2114

August 4th - 7thChungju Lake Festival Forget about the sticky weather and plunge into a lake festival with music and a water sports tournament. Central Tower Park near Tangeum Lake in Chungju. cjlake.com 043-850-6722

August 6th - 7thJochiwon Peach Festival Peaches are one of Jochiwon’s most famous agricultural products. You can participate in various events at the festival including picking peaches and applying facial masks made of the fruit. Korea University, Sejong Campus, in Yeongi-gun. peach.or.kr 041-865-2156

August 25th - 28thCheongyang Gochu and Gugija Festival When Koreans think of spicy gochu (chili pepper), the first thing that comes to mind is usually Cheongyang. Held at the Jaerae Market in Cheongyang. cygg.kr 041-940-2371

August 26th – 28th Yeongdong Grape Festival From picking grapes to making wine, a bunch of grape-related events will be prepared for visitors to Yeongdong Stadium in Yeongdong-gun. ydpodo.co.kr 043-740-3474

Education & Conference

August 9th - August 28thLego Play World Kids can exercise their creativity as they explore a world made of legos. KOTREX in Daejeon. Weekdays 10 am - 6 pm, weekends 10 am - 7 pm. kotrex.com 1588-2532

Sport & Fitness

KBO BaseballGames are held at Daejeon Stadium, home of the Hanwha Eagles2nd-4th vs Lotte Giants 6:30pm12th vs Doosan Bears 6:30pm13th-14th vs Doosan Bears 5pm

23th- 25th vs Samsung Lions 6:30pm26th vs LG Twins 6:30pm27th-28th vs LG Twins 5pm

K-League Football August 20th Daejeon vs Ulsan at Daejeon World Cup Stadium 7 pm

CHUNGCHEONG CALENDAR

Joan

Miró

Pai

ntin

g of

Roo

ster

August 11th – 16th FilmThere are a plethora of film festivals in Korea, a testament to the passion the population has for cinema and its different genres. But unlike highbrow art cinema events, where audienc-es are limited to those in the know, the Jecheon International Music & Film Festival brings back the “festive” to festival in a celebratory explosion of music, sound and images all held in the rural city of its namesake.The 7th JIMFF will kick off with the opening film The Music Never Stopped (2011), a sweeping family drama about a strict father who can rekindle his relationship with his estranged son only if he can reconnect with the very music that drove them apart. Chico and Rita (2010), the multi-ethnic representative of the diverse World Competition Section, is an animated feature that follows two musicians and their turbulent relationship through Havana, New York City, Las Vegas, Hollywood and Paris in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The Music in Sight documentary section will again lift the lid on musical cul-tures around the globe such as the extraordinary f lamenco, America’s soul train, and a search for the ultimate Stradivarius violin. Korean Music Film Now on the other hand concentrates solely on musical happenings on the peninsula with the chal-lenge of making a jazz album in Jazz Man (2011) by Kevin Chang and the Korean box office smash Sunny (2011). Also being an intrinsically family event, the Family Fest section will feature the acclaimed Tchaikovsky-tinged Russian anima-tion The Ugly Duckling (2010).

But we can’t forget about the music. One Summer’s Night will bring outdoor films and huge live performances right to the lush edges of the lake. Inside the city, expect to see buskers roaming the streets, impromptu performances, a musical mar-ket, a musical café, and bands—in short a colourful celebra-tion of colloquial madness. Jecheon, located two hours west of Seoul and two hours north of Daegu, can be easily reached by bus from most express bus terminals. Most non-English films have subtitles and you can find out how to book through the website. jimff.org 02-925-2242 WORDS BY DAVID OXENBRIDGE

EDITOR’S PICK

Jecheon Int’l Music and Film Festival

The

Ugl

y D

uckl

ing

GYEONGSANG

Art

OngoingDalmaji Hill Free Market A bustling arts market that happens every Saturday from 3 - 10 pm in Haewoljung (Pavilion) Plaza in Busan. Local artists gather to sell their crafts, draw caricatures, and perform old pop songs. english.busan.go.kr 1330

Through August 21st37th Busan Art Contest This contest is organized by the Busan Fine Arts Association. An exhibit will be held to display the winning entries. Busan Museum of Art (Haeundae). bfaa.or.kr 051-632-2400

Through August 28th Terra-cotta: Primitive Future Terra-cotta, made of clay and water, is a material which has been used for thousands of years. Clay Arch Art Museum in Gimhae. 10 am - 6 pm. Weekends 10 am - 7 pm. Closed Mon. daljin.com 055-340-7000

Aug 27th - 28th

Daegu Int’l Bodypainting FestivalThe beauty of the human body is accented by the outstanding technique of artists from around the globe. Events are held at Kolon Field Concert Hall in Duryu Park. dibf.co.kr 053-760-1855

Theater & Dance

OngoingKorean Music and Dance in BusanPerformances take place every Saturday at the National Gugak Center in Busan. 4 pm. W8,000. busan.gugak.go.kr 051-811-0040

July 30th - August 4thChangwon Int’l Festival of Artistic Performance Now in its 23rd year, this festival strives to improve the art of theater while respecting its traditions. Troupes and performers from more than 80 countries will be present. All plays will be held indoors. Changwon MBC Hall, 3.15 Art Center, Changdong Art Theater. mitf.or.kr 055-240-6151

August 3rd - 7thPohang Bada Int’l Theater Festival The theme of this year’s festival is “Young Space, Free Arts.” Some of the plays will be performed by troupes from overseas. Pohang Central Art Hall. pbitf.com 054-243-1152

August 4th - 7thBusan Int’l Magic Festival Korea’s one and only international magic festival invites you to a world of illusion with a variety of magic shows including the famous Gala. Busan Citizen’s Hall. W10,000 - W30,000 hibimf.org 051-626-7002

August 27th Closer: The Play A full-length play by Patrick Marber will be performed by the Daegu Theatre Troupe at Buy the Book

Cafe in Daegu. daegutheatre.com [email protected]

Concerts

August 5th - 7th

Korean Rock band: BuhwalBusan Int’l Rock Festival Couldn’t make it to Pentaport or Jisan Valley? Those stuck in the far south can still enjoy the festival spirit with Busan’s yearly music fest. A lineup of more than 35 bands from 5 different countries includes standouts YB, Heaven Shall Burn, Mongol 800, and Crying Nut. Samrak Gangbyun Park. Free Entrance. rockfestival.co.kr 051-888-3395

August 7thHyun-In Korean Pop ContestOrdinary Koreans compete to see who can bring their noraebang skills to the big stage. There will also be special guests performing. Songdo Beach Outdoor Stage. 8 pm. keas.kr 02-744-8057

Family & Community

OngoingWorld Confucianism Festival This festival will not only give you a chance to learn about Confucianism but also to experience its forms of artistic expression. Daetagol in Yeongyang-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7181

Through August 7thCocomong Green Playground At this eco-friendly playground, children can play with characters from the Cocomong Green Playground, the acclaimed cartoon produced by EBS. EXCO in Daegu. 10 am - 6 pm. W11,000 - W13,000. playcocomong.com 1544-5305

Through August 28thAir Kids Land Too hot to head outside? You and your family are invited to the great indoors at Air Kids Land, with tons of fun rides to tide you through the summer vacation. Gumico (Gumi Convention Center) in Gumi. Weekdays 10 am – 6 pm, weekends 10 am – 7 pm. W11,000 – W13,000. airkidsland.com 054-476-1011

Through September 4thSummer Kids Park with MiffyVisit Summer Kids Park with Miffy the rabbit and check out the nation’s biggest indoor playground with year-round sledding and moon walks. Changwon Exhibition Convention Center (CECO). 10 am - 7 pm. W12,000 - W14,000. m-play.co.kr 1666-3308

July 29th - August 2ndHamyang Wild Ginseng FestivalIf you’ve ever wanted to taste those strange bulbous roots in the bottles at Namdaemun Market, this is your chance. There will be a cooking contest, conferences and events—all ginseng-related, of course. Sanglim Park in Hamyang-gun. sansam.hygn.go.kr 055-960-5174

July 29th - August 13thGeochang Int’l Theatre Festival 15 Korean teams and 5 teams from abroad will be bringing some seriously creative performances to the stage. Suseungdae in Geochang-gun. kift.or.kr 055-943-4152

Banquet by the Beach Summer in Busan is all about the beach. All that swimming and sun tanning is bound to make you hungry, and nothing completes the oceanic theme like a fresh taste of local seafood. If straying too far from the sand isn’t your style, here are a few suggestions conveniently located near Haeundae Beach.

At the eastern end of Haeundae Beach toward Dalmaji Hill, you can find Mipo, a fish market and restaurant area that will please your senses. Haeundae Sea Land is a giant multi-level complex with a market downstairs where you can haggle and choose your meal while it’s still alive. You can also opt to go upstairs to the modern, classy dining area. The hoedeopbap (회덮밥, raw fish and vegetables over rice) and maeuntang (spicy seafood soup) are reasonably priced, so you don’t have to spend a great deal to enjoy the wonderful view and atmo-sphere.

Another great option in the vicinity of Haeundae is the small fishing village called Cheongsapo (청사포). A quick cab ride will take you to the other side of Dalmaji Hill where you can enjoy barbequed clams & shellfish. Suminine (수민이내) is the most famous of the restaurants here, which all specialize in shellfish. A great alternative is Poma (포마), located at the bot-tom of the hill close to the end of the road. It has a rooftop patio with an ocean view. The garibi gui (가리비구이, grilled scal-lops) and jogae modeum gui (조개모듬구이, mixed grilled shell-fish) cost W25,000 - W45,000, depending on order size. Cook them over the fire on the shells and then dip them in butter.

Back by the beach, the Haeundae Market has a few excellent places that offer well-priced lunch sets ranging from W5,000 - W10,000. The fish market village tents right in Haeundae won’t disappoint either, with late night drinks and plenty of sea creatures for the adventurous types.

WOR DS AND SHOTS BY CAR LOS ESCAMILLA

DISCOV ERY


GYEONGSANG CALENDAR

July 30th - August 1stSamgang Makgeolli Festival Taste makgeolli as it was brewed in the Joseon Dynasty. Samgangjumak in Yecheon-gun. worldcf.co.kr 054-851-7182

July 30th - August 7thBongwha Sweetfish Festival Get some euneo (sweetfish) on the line and then slap a fresh filet on the grill. Naeseong-cheon in Bongwha-eup, Bonghwa-gun. bongwha.go.kr 054-679-6311

August 1st - 9thBusan Sea Festival Enjoy a wide variety of activities and performances taking place at major beaches in Busan. seafestival.co.kr 051-888-3395

August 4th - 5thBeach Salsa Dance Festival On Thursday and Friday evenings, head to the Haeundae Beach event plaza (located between the Novotel Hotel and the Busan Aquarium for some salsa on the sand. Free for all to enjoy. [email protected]

August 6thChilseok Tea Culture Festival This is a great opportunity to experience Korea’s tea culture. Outdoor Auditorium in Mungyeong Saejae. 5 - 9:20 pm. chilseok.com 054-553-9876

August 10th - 14thThe Great Battle of Hansan Island Festival Learn more about Admiral Yi Sun-sin and how he led the Joseon fleet to victory against the Japanese at the Battle of Hansan Island. Located near Tongyeong. hsdf.or.kr 055-644-5222

August 13th - 14thComic World Participants share their passion for comic books and animation. BEXCO. Sat 11 am - 5:30 pm. Sun 10 am - 5:30 pm. comicw.co.kr 051-583-2470

August 14thDoll Free Market Busan We’re not just talking Barbie here: this is a chance for serious collectors to buy and sell all kinds of dolls. Busan Bexco 2F. psdoll.cyworld.com

August 18th - 22thBusan Kyunghyang Housing Fair Considered to be the largest housing

fair in Korea with 21 years of history and experience. Busan BEXCO. khfair.com 02-3397-0066

August 28th - September 3rd2011 Colorful Daegu Festival Celebrating the Daegu IAFF World Championships, this festival provides spaces around the city for artists and citizens to come out and participate in a variety of fun events. Events held at six different places including Daegu City Hall Square. cdf.or.kr 053-803-3768


Through August 21stAnimals in the Well: Unified Silla Exhibit The Gyeongju National Museum features the first exhibition of animal bones that were found inside Silla-era wells. Gyeongju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm. (Sat 9 pm). Closed Mon. Free. gyeongju.museum.go.kr 054-740-7500

August 10th - 15thKorea Science Festival 2011 With more than 250 organizations participating, this festival will be a great chance to experience science through various programs and theme booths. EXCO in Daegu. 10 am - 5 pm. excodaegu.co.kr 053-601-5352

August 19th - 21st2011 Daegu Changup Biz Expo If you are thinking of starting your own business, visit EXCO in Daegu for vital information ranging from market analysis to employment and interior design. 11 am - 6 pm. (21st 5 pm). W3,000. yesexpo.co.kr 02-856-1402

August 25th - 27th

AD Stars 2011 (Busan Int’l Advertising Festival) The festival has become one of the biggest ad festivals in Asia and was the first to be held simultaneously online and offline. Grand Hotel in Haeundae, Busan. adstarsfestival.org 051-623-5539

Sports & Fitness

K-League FootballAugust 6th Ulsan vs Seoul at Ulsan Munsu World Cup Stadium, 7 pm

August 6th Daegu vs Jeju at Daegu Citizen Stadium, 7 pm

August 6th Sangju vs Sungnam at Sangju Citizen Stadium, 7 pm

August 6th Pohang vs Busan at Pohang Steelyard, 7 pm

August 6th Gwangju vs Gyeongnam at Gwangju World Cup Stadium, 7 pm

KBO BaseballAll Busan games held at Sajik Stadium, home of the Lotte Giants.5th vs Samsung Lions 6:30 pm6th - 7th vs Samsung Lions 5 pm9th - 11th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm19th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm20th - 21th vs SK Wyverns 5 pm23th - 25th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm30th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30pm

All Daegu games held at Daegu Field, home of the Samsung Lions.2nd - 4th vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm9th - 11th vs Hanwha Eagles 6:30 pm12th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm13th - 14th vs KIA Tigers 5 pm19th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm20th - 21th vs LG Twins 5 pm30th vs KIA Tigers 6:30 pm31st vs Nexen Heroes 6:30 pm

August 15thHokseoki Marathon5k, 10k, half, and full, to depart from the training grounds of the 1st Division of the ROK Marine Corps in Pohang at 7 am. W10,000 - W25,000. Register by July 30th. rokmc50.com 010-5083-9582

August 27thSachun Sunset Marathon 5k, 10k, half, and full to depart from Sachun Chojun Park at 4:30 pm. W15,000 - W30,000. Register by August 1st. sunset.or.kr 055-854-5171

GYEONGSANG

August 12th - October 10th Family & CommunityThe Yeosu World Expo isn’t scheduled to start until next May, but for now you can head to the city of Gyeongju for 60 days of activities. Taking the theme of “Story of a Thousand Years, Love, Light and Nature,” the expo’s numerous attractions in-clude performances, exhibitions and even films. One of the films is a love story that capitalizes on Gyeongju’s historical background: it was the capital of the ancient Silla Dynasty. Visitors to the expo can also attend performances varying from puppet shows to b-boy dance-offs, an exhibition of tradi-tional dolls, and the fun-filled Kids’ Character Zone. If you’ve hesitated visiting Gyeongju thus far because of all that boring history, this expo is the perfect chance to go. cultureexpo.or.kr 054-748-3011

Sports & FitnessThe city of Daegu is abuzz with excitement as it. prepares for the International Association of Athletics Federation (IAAF) World Championships. The IAAF track and field championships are the third biggest global sporting event after the Olympic Games and the FIFA World Cup, and will be the largest sports event on earth in 2011 as 201 out of 212 IAAF member federations have declared their intention to participate. Athletics fans can look forward to record-breaking performances at Daegu Stadium with its recently unveiled stunning blue track. The opening ceremony is scheduled for August 27th, followed by 47 events in total (24 for men, 23 for women) taking place over the next 9 days. daegu2011.org 053-803-9434

Gyeongju World Culture Expo

IAAF World Championships

EDITOR’S PICK

GYEONGSANG CALENDAR


GYEONGSANG


bfia.or.kr 051-668-7900Geoje Foreign Resident Association gfra.net 055-687-9332

Ulsan Global Center 052-229-2810Ulsan Online ulsanonline.com

EducationAyurveda Yoga Academy Certification course for would-be yoga teachers in Daegu. Sat 10 am – 7 pm. Call Yatren at 011-9547-5181

Yoga Classes Each 1st and 3rd Sunday from 12:30 – 1:30 pm. Buy the Book Cafe in Daegu. [email protected] 010-7794-1218


4 – 5 Star HotelsBusanLotte Hotel 051-810-1000Novotel Ambassador 051-743-1234Seacloud 051-933-1000DaeguNovotel Ambassador 053-664-1101HostelsBusanArpina 051-740-3228

010-8722-1530

RestaurantsBusanGanga Indian Opposite Haeundae Beach. ganga.co.kr 051-740-6670

Gecko’s Western Perched on lovely Haeundae Beach at the Pale de CZ, you can get all of that authentic Western food you’re used to back home, and you’ll find bartenders who know how to mix a real margarita. 051-747-3069

Il Sole Italian Quality food with a great view of Haeundae Beach. 051-747-4253

Kebabistan Russian Uzbeki restaurant serving kebabs, soups and stews. Busan Station. 051-581-4050

Sunset Lounge American Drinks, Western food and fun delivered next to Haeundae. 051-742-2959

DaeguItalian Hof Street. 053-421-8577

Western This bookstore and café is your source for free yoga, theater, and parties. Downtown Daegu.

Open weekends. [email protected]

Café Francesco Italian Italian cuisine and good coffee. Near Rodeo Street. 053-252-9625

Dijon French Up-market French and Mediterranean cuisine. 053-422-2426

Hami Mami’s American One of Daegu’s best brunches. 50m from the US base. 8 am – 10 pm. 053-475-5242

053-423-4048

3rd Floor Sports Lounge2nd Floor Restaurant

The Holy Grill Western Owned and operated by Canadians, the Grill provides expats with fantastic sandwiches, burgers, Tex-Mex and breakfast in a chilled-out environment that feels more like a lounge than a burger joint. Move up to the 3rd floor to catch major sporting events. 053-423-4048

Leo Chow Mexican A decent selection of burritos and tacos. 053-255-7111

Maya Indian Gyeongbuk University. 053-214-1916

Samarkland Russian Daegu station. 053-252-4021

Siji Taco Mexican Spicy tacos at competitive prices 053-791-5050

South St. Western Philly cheesesteaks and cold cuts in Suseong-gu. blog.naver.com/southst105 053-768-7867

GumiWaegook Cook American Gumi’s original foreign-owned and operated restaurant, serving steaks, hamburgers, seafood, pastas, and German cuisine. waegookcook.com 054-444-3775

Bars/Lounges/PubsBusanAligote Wines, cheese platters, and excellent service. Haeundae. 6 pm – 3 am. aligote-busan.com 051-731-3322

Open mic nights on Tuesdays and parties galore. 011-9294-2391

Fuzzy Navel Great drinks and great Mexican food as well. 011-1757-6349

Kyungsung’s only foreigner-owned bar with sports and dart games. [email protected]

Rock ‘n’ Roll House Western-style bar with darts and pool and a great view of Haeundae. 051-742-5553

A cozy latin bar close to Pusan National University. 051-513-0070

Wolfhound The same classic food and drinks from the Seoul location, but right

on Haeundae Beach. 051-746-7913 Daegu

Great drinks, a pool table, and music upon request. Samdeok Catholic Church. 7 pm - 5 am. [email protected] 053-422-7708

JinjuSoundgarden Behind Gyeongsang National University. soundgarden.cyworld.com, [email protected] 055-753-2248, 010-6478-2248 (owner)

Religious ServicesBusan 051-898-3740

bujeon.org 051-807-3331Catholic Center Busan bccenter.or.kr 051-441-6403

Hongbeopsa Temple 051-508-3470 Busan busanbuddhism.com/hannarae

Hosanna Church Busan hosanna21.com 051-209-0191

Podowon Church Busan 051-333-3736Shipyungro Church Busan spr.or.kr 051-220-0200

Sooyeongno Church Busan 051-740-4500Pusan University of Foreign Studies Busan 051-640-3445

Islamic Mosque Busan busanislam.or.kr 051-518-9991

Okpo Joonang Presbyterian Geoje Island 010-2586-7520, 010-3873-1652

Sumgim Presbyterian Church Geoje Island sumgim.org 017-577-3096

GYEONGSANG


GYEONGSANG DIRECTORY

GYEONGSANG

T hough it’s the second biggest island in Korea, Geoje-do is not nearly as famous as Jeju-do. Geoje sits in the South Sea, connected by bridge to the rest of South Gyeongsang Province. For urbanites weary from the rat race, this beautiful island offers solitude far from the hustle and bustle of the big cities. And to many others,

it is a place called home.With a large population of foreigners on the island, there are several organizations, restaurants, and bars on the

island that offer expats good eats and social outings. Among these, one of the best organized is the Geoje Foreign Residents Association (gfra.net), with a clubhouse in Okpo. But the real highlights of Geoje are found when you get out of the main cities and focus on discovering the island’s natural beauty.

ALL ABOARDTaking a boat trip is one great way to experience Geoje’s off-

shore attractions. The most popular spot and first stop on the tour is the iconic landmass known as Haegeumgang, which has virtu-ally become the symbol of Geoje. It is a rocky karst that shoots up from the ocean’s surface into the sky with plenty of little nooks and small caves, including the Sipja Cave, in the stony outcrops. Normally, the driver shows off his skills by backing the boat into one of the many small crevices with one hand on the wheel while talking on his cell phone. But if the seas are too rough, he’ll settle for circling the massive rock a few times and then heading back to the open seas.

The next stop on the tour is Oedo Botanical Island. Built by Lee Chang Ho and his wife Choi Ho Sook in the 1960s, Oedo Botania (oedobotania.com) is a f lorist’s dream, housing thou-sands of different plants and flowers. Walking along the main path, you go through over 15 sections, including the Cactus Gar-den, Flower Garden, Bamboo Road, Dreaming Heights and Stair-

Hallyeohaesang National Park

GujoraBeach

P.O.W Camp

Deokpo Beach

G E O J E I S L A N D

Jinhae Busan

WahyeonBeach

DSME (Daewoo Shipbuilding and

Marine Engineering)

Samsung Heavy Industry

Hakdong Beach

Haegeumgang

Oedo Marine Farm Park

& Sipja Cave

Mt. Gyeryong 566 m

Mt. Guksabong 462 m

Geoje City Hall

Myeongsa Beach

WORDS AND SHOTS BY NICK BUDNIEWSKI


The Highs and Lows of Geoje Island

Top Five BeachesAll the Jeju flights are booked? Geoje Island has plenty of beachside real estate for you to lay claim to.

1 Gujora Beach 2 Wahyeon Beach 3 Hakdong Beach4 Myeongsa Beach5 Deokpo Beach

KOREAN DESTINATION


way to Heaven. The island boasts amazing colors blended together against

a background of blue sea and mountains, and photography enthusiasts are out in full force snapping shots of colorful f lower arrangements and people holding quirky poses for Cyworld and Facebook photo albums. Families can enjoy an easy walk together while savoring an ice cream cone or drink from the snack bar, while couples walk hand-in-hand as they relish the romantic atmosphere of the botanical garden. As the path winds back down towards the water, the Fountain of Fare-well bids you goodbye as you leave the gardens and head back towards the docks.

TO THE TOPWhen your watery voyage

is f inished, leave sea level behind with a hike through lush meadows and up steep inclines that are sure to chal-lenge all grades of hikers. The most popular hiking spot is Mt. Gyeryongsan. This hike passes by the remains of POW camp buildings and a few tem-ples. Once at the peak, climb-ers are rewarded with great views of the interior of the island, surrounding ocean, and downtown Gohyeon-dong.

Guksabong, on the other hand, is a trek that leaves hikers gasp-ing for breath most of the way up. The steep incline is intense, but the Daewoo Shipyard, Okpo, Gohyeon, the Hallyeo water-way and the other mountains of Geoje are all clearly visible from different points along the trail and from the peak, affording some great photo opportunities.

A BIT OF HISTORYAlong with its natural attractions, the unassuming island also

conceals a fascinating history. The best place to learn about the important role that Geoje played in the Korean War is the Geoje POW (Prisoner of War) Camp, which housed over 170,000 Chi-nese and North Korean prisoners. The walking path meanders chronologically through the history of the war and details the camp’s functions during this time.

The story told here offers a unique look at the Korean War, covering anecdotes of prison riots, escape attempts, and the fate of the prisoners after the war ended. The complex was closed in 1953 when the armistice was signed but still stands today as a reminder of this turbulent period in Korea’s history.

HE ADING HOMELeaving Geoje, you can’t help but wonder how so much is

on an island that’s only 383 km2, barely half the size of Seoul. Though it may not have the lava tubes or popular beaches of Jeju-do, Geoje stands out among Korea’s more than 4,000 islands. For more information on Geoje, check out the tourist website at english.geoje.go.kr

From left: Watch tower, Recreated barracks and remains

Previous page: Okpo and Daewoo Shipyard1 Surrounding ocean and small islands,2 Geoga Bridge, 3 Fountain of Farewell, 4 Eden Garden, 5 Botanical Garden

1

Delhi Indian Restaurant Curries and tandoori, on the main road in Okpo. Okpo 2-dong 528-5. 055-688-3686

The Turkish House Kebabs and hookahs. 055-687-6263

Kontiki Western-style dinners and steaks, on the main road near Gohyeon, across from the Admiral Hotel turnoff. Okpo 1-dong 546-1. 055-687-2088

Ppyeo Dae Il Ju Korean pork rib BBQ. Okpo 1-dong 145-7. 055-687-3058

Nani Breakfast and other Western dishes, across from the Shamrock Pub. Okpo 1-dong 545-1. 070-7758-3443

Good Eats on Geoje IslandIf you’re in the Okpo harbor area, you can head to these spots to tuck away some good grub.

2

3

45

JEOLLA

Check Out Cheonan

DISCOV ERY

Get ready for one of the biggest meals you’ve ever eaten—cooked up and served inside of a bamboo tree.

There are few things that scream “Oriental” to those new to the Far East quite like bamboo. 70 percent of the ROK’s bam-boo products are manufactured in Damyang in South Jeolla Province, a quaint little village of artisans producing dishware, bamboo ice cream and even custom car parts from the versatile plant. But none of these things compare to having a feast of epic proportions cooked inside an entire bamboo tree.

Juk Rim Won (죽림원) is a restaurant well-known to Kore-ans for producing this amazing meal. In the yard, you can see the custom-made ovens they use to bake the trees stuffed with delicious goodies. Set yourself up at an outdoor table nestled within the bamboo forest itself. Or if you prefer a roof overhead, the meal is so epic that it has to be carried indoors through the window.

Once the staff open up the baked tree, you come face to face with a seemingly endless line of goodies: chicken, octopus, pork, eggs, potatoes and a plethora of seafood cooked to a heav-enly level of tenderness and infused with the slightest hint of bamboo aroma. Veggie side dishes come complimentary, Ko-rean-style. Sip on some postprandial rice wine (대잎술) served from a bamboo stalk as you reflect on the incredible meal you just devoured.

For a meal so massive, you must give the restaurant at least 24-hours notice. It’s not the cheapest meal, at W40,000 per head, but the consensus from expats and Koreans alike is it will definitely be worth every last cheon won (W1,000) you shell out.

For bookings, call 061-383-1292 (Korean only). Hwabang-ri, Wonsan-myeon, Damyang-gun, Jeollanam-do. WOR DS AND SHOTS BY BARUN SAR K AR

Epic Meal Time: Bamboo Style

JEOLLA CALENDAR

Art

Through August 7thDochon Shin Yeong-bok ExhibitionTaught by many famous artists, Shin Yeong-bok grew up to be a Korean master of Chinese painting of the Southern School. Main Building of the Gwangju City Museum. 9 am - 6 pm. (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500 artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134

Through August 14thLife and Landscapes of Namdo These pictures capture the beautiful scenery of Namdo. Main Building of Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134

Through August 21stLike Fire and Wind: Dancer Choi Seung-hui Exhibition Featuring photos of this revolutionary dancer who helped create contemporary Korean dance during the Japanese colonial period. Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134

Through August 28thMemorial Exhibition for Buddha’s Birthday Displaying bells, drums, and other instruments used to spread the message of Buddha. Art Hall at the Jeonju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm (Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm). Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651

Through September 25thSagunja Exhibition “Sagunja” is a term referring to the four plants--the apricot, bamboo, chrysanthemum and orchid--which the scholars of the Joseon dynasty admired. Art Hall at Jeonju National Museum. 9 am - 6 pm (Sat 9 am - 9 pm, Sun 9 am - 7 pm). Closed Mon. Free. jeonju.museum.go.kr 063-223-5651

Through October 2ndSweet Sweet Toy Story Children will enjoy this display of crafts and dolls of popular characters and robots. Kids Gallery at Main Building of Gwangju Museum of Art. 9 am - 6 pm. (Wed 9 am - 9 pm). Closed Mon. W200 - W500. artmuse.gwangju.go.kr 062-613-7134

Theater & Dance

OngoingSinpan Norum: 12 Acts This performance, held the fourth Saturday of each month at 4 pm, combines elements of pansori, gutpan, changgeuk, and other traditional Korean art forms. Yewondang at National Center for Korean Folk Performing Area in Namwon. ntmc.go.kr 063-620-2324

Through November 6thAriul Arirang: The Musical Every Saturday and Sunday, come to hear the story of a woman and the world’s largest seawall, Ariul. Ariul Art Hall in front of the 33 Center at the Saemangeum Seawall in Gunsan. 2 pm. 60 min. W3,500 - W7,000. ariulart.com 063-280-3150

August 13thThe Ballerina Who Loved a B-Boy: The Musical The cast use freestyle dancing to tell the story of the ballerina who became a b-girl so she could be with her love. Grand Theatre at the Gunsan Culture Center. 3 & 6 pm. 90 min. W33,000 - W55,000. culture.gunsan.go.kr 02-2266-3727

August 25thRomeo and Juliet: The Opera Don’t miss this chance to see Romeo and

Juliet as a changgeuk, or traditional Korean opera. Gochang Culture Center. 7:30 pm. Free (first come, first serve). culture.gccl.kr 063-560-2322

August 25th - 28thLiar 2: The Play Twenty years after Liar 1, experience the sequel to the popular production, this time featuring two families and two kids. In Korean. Yeonji Hall at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabukdo. Thu & Fri 7:30 pm, Sat 3 & 7 pm, Sun 2 pm. 100 min. W25,000 - W35,000. sori21.co.kr 1588-0766

Concerts

August 4th

Prague Brass Ensemble Handpicked from Prague’s finest orchestra members, this ensemble is in the middle of its world tour. Moakdang at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabukdo. 5 pm. 100 min. W10,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

August 11thSummer Youth Concert Taken straight from the textbook, these classical pieces will help young people become more familiar with classical music. Yeongji Hall at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabukdo. 7:30 pm. W5,000. sori21.co.kr 063-281-2748

August 23rdSumi Jo’s 25th Anniversary ConcertAcclaimed vocalist Sumi Jo presents folk songs from Korea and other countries. Moakdang at Sori Arts Center of Jeollabukdo. 7:30 pm. 110 min. W40,000 - W120,000. sori21.co.kr 063-270-8000

August 26th - 28thGwangju World Music Festival Hear a mixture of folk music, world music, and pop music at this festival held at various venues around Gwangju. gjwmf.com 062-350-2474

Family & Community

Through August 2ndMokpo Ocean Cultural FestivalA carnival on the water, a fireworks display, and many more fun summer events will entertain visitors to this southwestern city. Peace Square & Samhak-do in Mokpo. mokpofestival.com 061-270-8441

Through August 7thGangjin Celadon Festival 90% of Goryeo Dynasty celadon pottery that has been designated as a national treasure was made in Gangjin. Goryeo Celadon Doyoji in Gangjin-gun. gangjinfes.or.kr 061-430-3194

Through August 13thMuan Baekryeon Culture MadangActivities and cultural performances are held every Saturday at Hoesan Baekryeonji in Illo-eup, Muan-gun. tour.muan.go.kr 061-450-5473

Through August 21stKids Kingdom Water Theme Park Kids will find plenty to keep them busy and active at this exciting water park. Water Theme Park in Jeonju. 9:30 am - 7 pm. W12,000. 063-237-3651


Check Out Cheonan

DISCOV ERY

As the name suggests, this street in Samcheon-dong, Jeon-ju, is lined with various mak-geolli drinking establishments, but they’re like nothing you have experienced before. It’s best to come here with a group of friends, find a restaurant that you like and make yourself com-fortable for a long evening of experiencing the best of Jeonju.

At the restaurant we visited, there are two kinds of makgeolli to try: malgeun (맑은, clear) and botong (보통, regular). One kettle of makgeolli goes for around W12,000 - W15,000. If the price sounds steep, just keep in mind that each ket tle contains 2-3 bottles of makgeolli.

But you’ll quickly realize that it’s not just about the makgeolli. Your first kettle of booze will be accompanied by an array of side dishes. You may encounter some iffy items like beondegi (번데기, silkworm pupae), sea snails or baby crabs, but you haven’t seen anything yet. This is where your loyalty to one restaurant pays off. Along with each new kettle of makgeolli that you order, new and increas-ingly extravagant dishes make their appearance, such as pig’s head cheese, live octopus, and hongeo hoe (홍어회, fermented raw skate). For those adven-turous types who have been looking for the oppor tunity to try foods that seem strange and exotic to foreigners (and even some Koreans), Makgeolli Street should be your first stop.

When you plan your visit to Makgeolli Street, make sure you bring all the friends you can gather and an empty stomach to fill with Jeonju’s exciting cui-sine. The folks at the tourist in-formation center near the Jeonju bus station can give you a map and help you find your way.

WOR DS AND SHOTS BY JO -ANNA LY NCH

Beyond BibimbapJeonju’s Makgeolli StreetGet off the beaten track of hanok villages and bibimbap restaurants and make your way to Makgeolli Street (막걸리 골목).

JEOLLA

Beondegi


Gwangju International Centergic.or.kr 062-226-2733

gwangjublog.comInside Jeonju insidejeonju.comThe Jeonju Hub thejeonjuhub.com

Religious Services

Antioch Presbyterian Church Jeonjuandiok.kr 063-274-3228

Iri Joongang Church Iksan 063-851-4311Musang Temple Muan-gun 042-841-6084

Museums

Gochang Dolmen Museum 9 am – 5 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. gcdolmen.go.kr 063-560-2576

Iksan Jewel Museum 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. jewelmuseum.go.kr 063-859-4641

Jeonju Oriental Medicine Cultural Center 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. hanbangcenter.com 063-232-2500

Jeonju Traditional Alcohol Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Free. urisul.net 063-287-6305

Jeonju Traditional Culture Center jt.or.kr 063-280-7045

Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480

Mokpo Natural Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. museum.mokpo.go.kr 061-274-3655

Mokpo Ceramic Livingware Museum 9 am – 6 pm. Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, students W2,000, children W1,000. doja.mokpo.go.kr 061-270-8480


Gwangju Youth Hostel 062-943-4378Ramada Plaza Gwangju ramadagwangju.com 062-717-7000

Radio

Gwangju FM 98.7US Armed Forces NetworkGunsan AM 1440/FM 88.5Gwangju FM 88.5

Restaurants/Supermarkets

First Nepal Restaurant firstnepal.com 062-225-8771

Tequilaz Gwangju’s first Mexican cantina serves up your south-of-the-border favorites with magical margaritas and, of course, killer tequilas. tequilaz.com

Underground Grocers Gwangju This foreigner-run food shop has those hard-to-find cheeses, taco shells and other delicacies you crave. 062-232-2626

Live Music VenuesBars/Lounges/Pubs

Art & Travel Cafe Jeonju Open mic nights every Wednesday from 9 pm. Facebook group, 011-9437-0208

Deepin Jeonju Popular expat bar with Texas Holdem on Sundays. 019-9646-1028

Led Zeppelin Art Space Jeonju Hosts underground bands both expat and Korean. cafe.daum.net/k250073 018-607-6321

Radio Star Jeonju Under the 7-11 in Junghwasan-dong. 011-9444-9609

Speakeasy Gwangju The fun never stops at this fantastic bar owned and operated by honest Irishman Derrek Hannon. 010-4713-3825

San Antonio Latin Bistro Suncheon Suncheon surprises with this Latin-themed restaurant and bar. Facebook group, [email protected] 061-724-2234

Insects Experience Exhibition A great chance for kids to hear, see, and touch some genuine creepy crawlies. Jeonju Hwasan Stadium. 10 am - 7 pm. W10,000 - W12,000. ticket.interpark.com 063-237-3651

Through August 28thPororo Park Experience ExhibitionCartoon character and adorable penguin Pororo enjoys an astounding amount of popularity with Korean children. 1 Exhibit Hall at Kim Daejung Convention Center in Gwangju. W10,000 - W12,000. kdjcenter.or.kr 1588-0766

July 29th - August 4thJeongnamjin Aqua Festival If you’re ready for some fun in the water, head down to Jangheung-gun on the southern coast. Events held near the Tamjin River. jhwater.kr 061-863-7071

July 30th - August 2ndTamjin River Euneo Festival During the Joseon Dynasty, the residents of Gangjin-gun offered the finest euneo (sweetfish) to the king. Tamjin River Dunchi Park in Gangjin-gun. gangjin.go.kr 061-430-5522

August 27th - September 4thNamwon Herb Festival Experience the exotic scents and flavors of Namwon’s herbs, located in the shadow of Jiri Mountain. Herb Valley in Namwon. herbfestival.or.kr 063-620-4892

August 28th - 29thHaepung Gochu Festival Can you handle the heat? Pick, taste, and buy gochu all in one spot. Hari Middle School in Hari-myeon, Gochang-gun. gochu.gochang.go.kr 063-560-2600

Education

OngoingGIC Talks Take advantage of English lectures by professors, writers, and diplomats that promote communication and mutual understanding among Koreans and international residents. Topics include a wide range of subjects such as culture, history, politics, and art. Gwangju International Center. Sat 3 – 4:30 pm. Closed holidays. gic.or.kr 062-226-2733

Haenam Dinosaur Museum As the first such museum in the region, the Haenam Dinosaur Museum introduces visitors to the rich fossil legacy of Uhang-ri in Haenam-gun. 9 am – 6 pm. (Weekends 7 pm). Closed Mon. Adults W3,000, teens W2,000, children W1,000. uhangridinopia.haenam.go.kr 061-532-7225

Through August 25thKorean Class for Summer SessionClasses are divided by levels and are held on either weekdays or weekends. Gwangju International Center. 10:30 am - 12:30 pm. W50,000 - W80,000. gwangjublog.com [email protected] 062-226-2733

Sport & Fitness

KBO BaseballKIA Tigers at Gwangju Stadium9th - 11th vs LG Twins 6:30 pm16th - 18th vs Lotte Giants 6:30 pm26th vs SK Wyverns 6:30 pm27th - 28th SK Wyverns 5 pm31st vs LG Twins 6:30 pm

K-League FootballAugust 7th Jeonnam vs Incheon at Gangyang Stadium 7 pm

August 6th - 7thMudflat Sports Festival Unusual futsal tournament played in the middle of a mudflat! Mandol Mudflat Experience Field in Simwon-myeon, Gochang-gun. mudnsports.com 063-560-2701

JEOLLA PROVINCE

Some of the most authentic temple food on Jeju is just 15 minutes southwest of Jeju City.

A bit off the beaten path, Mulmegol (물메골) is a cozy house that has been converted into a restaurant that serves some of the best-tasting temple food on Jeju Island. Free of MSG and chem-icals, the dishes served at Mulmegol are simple, delicious and in harmony with nature.

Based on the belief that people’s energy fluctuates with the seasons and has different seasonal needs, traditional prepara-tion of temple food is based upon the interaction of plants, sea-sons, and people. The owner of Mulmegol, Kim Ae-ja, bases her dishes on recipes and principles learned from Buddhist Monk Sun Jae but adds her own touch to each dish by incorporating seasonally and locally available produce.

There are two main dishes offered at Mulmegol: deulkkae su-jebi (들깨수제비, hand-torn pasta with perilla) and lotus leaf rice (연잎밥). Each are accompanied with delicious and generously portioned side dishes, such as marinated tofu, sesame seed-sea-soned cilantro and marinated seitan, which vary by season and availability. After your meal, you are served swindari (쉰다리), a traditional fermented rice drink, as a digestive.

The price for a meal is around W7,000 and restaurant hours are from 11 am – 8 pm Tuesday - Sunday.GET TING THERE By Bus: from Jeju City Hall, take bus #37 towards Aewol (애월) until it reaches the end of the line. Walk back down the hill towards the intersection and turn left. Walk down the hill towards the ocean. Turn right at the first side street. Mulmegol will be the first house on your right.By car: from Jeju City head south on Hwy. 1132 towards Aewol (애월). Turn left when you see a sign for Hwy. 1136 and go up the hill. Make a sharp left at the 1st side street on your left before the larger intersection. It will be the first house on your right.67 Beondaedong-gil, Susan-ri, 795-1 Aewol-eup, Jeju-do. 064-713-5486 WOR DS A N D SHOTS BY LAU R EN FLEN N I K EN

Regulate Your Energy with Tasty Temple Food


JEJU ISLAND

PerformancesOngoing

Jump In its second decade, this popular martial arts comic show shows no signs of slowing. Halla Art Hall in Cheju Halla College. Tue - Fri 8 pm; Sat 4, 8 pm; Sun, holidays 8 pm. Closed Mon. W40,000 - W50,000. hijump.co.kr 064-749-0550

Nanta Nanta, the non-verbal performance that got started ten years ago, is a feast for the ears that turns ordinary kitchen pots and pans into a rhythm section. Jeju Media Center in Jeju City (064-727-7800). 90 min. Sun 8 pm, Tue - Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 pm, 8 pm. W40,000 - W50,000. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr 1544-1555

August 5th - 7thPrison: The Musical Comedy duo Cultwo, most famous for their radio show, present a new kind of comic musical. In Korean. Grand Theatre at Jeju Culture & Art Center. Fri 8 pm, Sat 4 & 7:30 pm, Sun 3 & 6:30 pm. 120 min. W25,000 - W35,000. 1588-4446 jejuculture.or.kr

August 12th - 20thJeju International Wind Ensemble Festival At the windy outside performance hall, be blown away by wind ensembles from a range of countries including Germany, Australia, and Japan. Jeju Culture & Art Center in Jeju-si & Cheonjiyeon Fall Outside Performance Hall in Seoguipo. jiwef.org 064-722-8704

Family & CommunityThrough August 21stJeju Kids Park Sliding, jumping, and riding, kids and parents alike can have a great time at this big indoor “park.” Event Hall at Jeju International Convention Center in Seoguipo. W10,000 - W15,000. kids-park.co.kr 1666-1079

August 5th - 7thYerae Nonjitmul Festival Yerae is the spot where fresh water from springs meets the waves of the sea. Visitors can enjoy clam picking, fishing, spelunking, and more in this place of tremendous natural beauty. Yerae Nonjitmul Beach. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-760-2661

August 6th - 7thPyoseon Haebichi Beach White Sand Festival Walk along the pristine beach and take part in a variety of summer events. Pyoseon Beach in Seoguipo. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-787-0024

August 12th - 14thDodu Oraemul FeastHead to Oraemul spring for some of the purest water on the island. Dodu Port in Jeju-si. culture.jeju.go.kr 064-728-4951

Sport & FitnessK-League FootballAugust 13th Jeju vs Daejeon 7 pmAugust 20th Jeju vs Seoul 7 pm

Radio

Arirang RadioJeju City: FM 88.7 Seogwipo: FM 88.1

Theme Park

Kimnyoung Maze Park The challenge is the thrill of the search and the reward of the taste of success in ringing the bell! San 16, Kimnyoung-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do. jejumaze.com 064-782-9266

Restaurants

Bagdad Cafe Indian. Delicious, authentic Indian food made from local ingredients in a gorgeous atmosphere. Near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-757-8182

Dom Jang Japanese. Spectacular sushi in several locations all over the island. The best atmosphere is in Jungmun. 064-738-2550

Island Gecko’s Western. A varied menu of terrific Western food, plus maybe the best cocktails and service on the island. The BBQ nights every weekend will blow you away with ribeye steak, sausages, and more for only W19,000. Jungmun. geckosterrace.com 064-739-0845

The Plate This modern bistro serves up a great American-style hamburger along with other Thai dishes. 064-746-8008

Zapata’s Mexican. Find it behind Burger King near City Hall in Jeju City. 064-722-3369

JEJU ISLAND

JEJU CALENDARDISCOVERY

NETWORKING CALENDAR


NETWORKING CALENDAR

Thursday, August 4thFirst Thursdays Afterwork

Chill out at a trendy location with other professionals. Location and time TBA. afterworkseoul.com

Tuesday, August 9thBASS Catch up Coffee

10 am - 12 pm. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Itaewon. Please RSVP for this event at britishseoul.com.

Wednesday, August 10thBIWA Informal Lunch

Bucella, Pale de Cz building. 12 pm. biwa-korea.com. RSVP to Yuko (010-4132-7211) or Jennifer (010-4168-4145).

Thursday, August 11thFKCCI Café du Commerce

Join and network in an informal French atmo-sphere and enjoy a French-style buffet along with a selection of French wines. Novotel Ambassador Gangnam. 6:30 pm - 8:45 pm. W24,000. Visit the website for more details. fkcci.com

Friday, August 12thBASS Mahjong

Every Friday until November 17th. Join a fun group of ladies who enjoy playing the West-ern version of this Chinese tile game. All levels welcome. Refreshments provided. 10 am - 12:30 pm. Seoul Club, Cheeseman Room. W10,000. britishseoul.com [email protected]

Tuesday, August 16thANZA Monthly Global Cafe

Held every 3rd Tuesday at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. 10 am. Members W10,000, non-mem-bers W15,000. Register online at anzakorea.com.

Wednesday, August 24thBIWA Coffee Morning

The 4th Wednesday of each month. Star-bucks, Pale de Cz building. 10 am. biwa-ko-rea.com. RSVP to Yuko (010-4132-7211) or Jennifer (010-4168-4145).

SIWA Coffee MorningCoffee morning at the Grand Ambassador

Hotel. 9:30 am - 11:30 am. Members W14,000, non-members W19,000. siwapage.com

Tuesday, August 30thBASS Monthly Meeting

10 am - 12 pm. Seoul Club. Members W10,000, non-members W14,000. britishseoul.com

Wednesday, August 31stSIWA Working Women Network

Details TBA. contact [email protected]

NETWORKING CALENDAR

ANZA Australian & New Zealand Association of South Korea

BASS British Association of SeoulBIWA Busan Int’l Women’s Association FKCCI French Chamber of Commerce and

Industry in KoreaSIWA Seoul Int’l Women’s Association

EDI T ED BY J ISU N MOON A N D DAV I D CA R RU T H

Shots were taken at the First Thursdays Afterwork networking event. Last month’s event was held on Thursday, July 7th at The Oasis at the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul.

To list your event, contact David Carruth at [email protected] or 02-3447-1610

A while ago I went with four of my dearest friends to a temple for the

weekend. What am I saying? I only have four friends. We’d booked weeks in advance, and having not one Buddhist bone in our collective bodies, were not entirely sure what we were in for.

I imagined quiet chats over mystically brewed tea with a monk who would instill wisdom and calmness into my somewhat cynical soul. Perhaps a gentle walk around the beautifully manicured lawns under a bamboo parasol while the birds sang melodic messages of tranquility. Then a soothing massage followed by a light snack and a good night of sleep on a soft futon.

We arrived at the temple early on a Sat-urday morning and were greeted by the incessant banging of builders in the pro-cess of constructing a new temple. Never mind, we thought, they’ll stop banging now that we’ve arrived. Temples are places of peace and quiet, after all. We were ush-ered into a rather large and clinical room which later turned out to be our sleep-ing quarters and were asked to change into dusty pink padded pajamas and blue plastic shoes. The pants were shaped like

enormous pantaloons while the tops were little waistcoats with no buttons. The fab-ric was thick and looked like something that my grandmother used on her bed when I was about three. We were to wear this delightful little ensemble the entire weekend. After that we received a mat to sit on which completed our Aladdin-on-his-magic-carpet look.

We carefully sat in the lotus position and waited for our monk to arrive. After five minutes the blood stopped flowing to my feet. Overcome by pins and needles, I had to assume a slightly less authentic position and from the corner of my eye noticed a few of the other girls in the same degree of discomfort. Eventually our monk arrived and she (yes, she) took one look at us and doubled over with laughter. Not a very aus-picious start, if you ask me.

The rest of the day consisted of learn-ing how to meditate in various places around the temple. It was very insightful. I learned that if you make me meditate near a waterfall I will need to wee. And if

you make me meditate stand-ing up with my eyes closed I will fall over. And all the while the builders continued to bang away with astounding ferocity.

That night we did 108 prostrations. This requires incredible strength and stamina, of which I have neither. You’re supposed to go down into a prostrate position and come back up into a standing position without ever touching the ground with your hands. Somehow we made it through and fin-ished off the evening with a yoga routine that almost saw me losing both eyeballs in some sort of downward dog stretch that looked nothing like any dog I’ve ever seen.

After spending the night sleeping on the floor, we were awakened at 4 am on Sun-day morning by a sullen gong and dragged ourselves off for more meditation. Meals were interesting affairs and even though kimchi and I had agreed to go our separate ways a long time ago, we endured a brief reunion that weekend. It was either that or starve.

But don’t be put off by my (still) cynical soul. I do thoroughly recommend a temple stay. Just make sure it’s not under renovation before you go. And choose your company wisely. My girls were just fabulous.

WORDS BY SAMANTHA DIX-HILL, ILLUSTR ATION BY LEROY KUCIA

Om


During the month of September give us your 30-second to 2-minute video showing your friends and family back home what awaits them in Korea, and you could win a trip for two to Europe, along with plenty of other prizes. See details at www.10mag.com/contest

Contest ScheduleSeptember 1st - 30th: Accept EntriesOctober 2nd - 9th: Online Voting to Determine Top 10 VideosOctober 10th - 11th: Judges Determine RankingsOctober 12th - Awards Ceremony

GRAND PRIZE

VIDEOVIDEO

www.10mag.com

A Trip for Two to Europe on Lufthansa German Airlines!

The Second AnnualThe Second Annual

10 magazine august 2011

Documents