10 essential non electric tools end times

8/3/2019 10 Essential Non Electric Tools End Times

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10 Essential Non-Electric Tools-EndTimesReportCOM

http://www.endtimesreport.com/essential_tools.html

10. Essential Tools

Tools are civilization. Proper tools allow tasks to be done quickly and efficiently, so lifecan be more than a dreary, bone weary scavenge for food and shelter. Many farms upuntil WW II had the proper tools to be virtually self sufficient...and that meant manual,non electric tools and machines which would work come hell or high water, year afteryear, from one generation to the next.

Firewood tools Tool storage Shovels, axes Rakes

Modern families and even farms rarely have enough non electric equipment to evenbegin to heat homes or as a means to cook their meals. The necessary equipment isstill available, some new, some only available at flea markets or antique shops. But thisequipment can still be found if only one has the persistence and dedication to searchthem out.

Our civilization is now defined by electricity. Take that away, and "civilization" as weknow it comes to an end for most people.. Life would go on...as it did a hundred years inthe past. The unprepared could starve, many will die of hypothermia in the colddarkness of their once "user friendly" homes. "Something wicked this way comes."Thoughtful, brave men, though, would be able to survive with a degree of comfort,providingthey prepare to live without electrical energy now, while still possible.

The basic categories of essential tools required for survival in our very uncertain futurecan be broadly classified under the following categories:

1. Non electric cooking and kitchen equipment;


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2.Wood cutting and splitting tools for heating and

cooking;

3.Carpentry tools for repairs, construction, and

shelter building.

4. Home defense firearms; Knives;

5.Medical and nursing supplies, including

radiological testing equipment; and

6.Preservation oils, lubricants, grinding and

sharpening stones, files, etc, for the maintenance

of the essential tools.

7.Playing with temperatures- make your own tools.

BLACKSMITHING, by Dale Raby

I bought a book several years ago which may go along with your website very well. Itis written by Aldren A. Watson, titled "Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings".ISBN # 0-393-32276-9. It is written to explain the purpose, use, and maintenance ofhand tools, many of them obscure. In his work, the author recommends what to get,what not to get, how to adjust these tools. Things like hand drills, froes, spokeshaves,saws, adzes, etc. Anyone planning to stockpile an assortment of tools to use duringthe "bitter end" should know how to properly (safely) use them and how toadjust/maintain them. Also very good reference for those planning on a DIY

cabin/retreat. Strictly hand tools. Lists for $15.95, over 400 pages and 450illustrations. Check it out, an excellent resource....Mark - 12.9.05

Will life "The Day After" be pleasant? In a word, no. It would be ridiculous andirresponsible to believe that our so called "lifestyle" would continue unabated. You mustprepare now for the security of your families. There are no alternatives if you desire tostay out of harms way in the near future. Today I can go into the shop and get a crosscut saw, wedges and single jack, walk out into the woods and fall a dead tree. Limbingcan be done with a heavy single bit axe, and if needed sections cut and yarded out intoan open area with a hand winch or a long rope and pulleys. Then the tree can be sawedinto firewood lengths. Then splitting mauls, augmented with splitting wedges and a

sledgehammer, are available to split the wood into sections suitable for burning. Beingfrom a dead tree, the wood will burn immediately in a wood stove for heating or cooking.That is possible only because I have not only the equipment necessary, but also thewood stoves in place now, when they are available.


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My neighbors are also rural dwellers, but they heat with electricity, cook with electricity,pump water from deep wells with electricity, and have no alternative methods tocompensate for the ultimate failure of the electric utility grid. Most of these people havelong since discarded their wood stoves, even trash burners that could heat a kitchen,remodeled perfectly useable wood burning fireplaces into "pretty" artificial log systems,

destroying the infrastructure of a once reliable source of heat. I personally have hadconversations with neighbors who actually believe their artificial fireplaces could still beused if the power was down! They forgot the electric fans which make the system work!

And they will have no water when the power goes out. That is their fault, not mine. Theyhave chosen to be totally dependent upon others and upon fragile technology very newin the history of mankind for their very existence.

We have the "free will" to act, or not to act, in such a manner as will ensure our survivalas free, independent souls, and not have to beg for handouts from "big brother" in orderto live from one day to the next. What is your choice?

It is very possible you may want to bury and "lose" some essential tools that may bevery important to your future survival. Engine oil is NOT a rust preventive oil. If youneed to preserve any carbon steel products against rust (as in buried storage), a realrust preventive oil must be used. The best product I have found for rust prevention isNAPA brand "Chain and Cable" lubricant. It comes in a spray can and sprays out as ahighly penetrating foam. The foam dissipates into an oil and penetrates into the pores ofthe steel. After awhile wipe off any excess, cover the item carefully with moisture-proofmaterial, then seal the seams against any water infiltration. Don't forget that "Seal-A-Meal" bags are available in 20 foot lengths and either 7 or 10 inches wide - ideal forsealing long, narrow objects you would want in a future dire emergency.

The package can then be placed into a sturdy container (metal or thick PVC pipe),coated with liquid paraffin, wrapped again with black plastic sheeting (to protect theparaffin) and the seams sealed with vinyl tape, then buried. Bury at least 3 feet deep,cover the object with a foot of dirt, throw some scrap iron or old pipe into the hole, thenfinish covering with dirt, finally replacing the surface material so the landscape does notappear disturbed. If anyone with a metal detector gets curious, they will find the scrapiron first and hopefully get discouraged from digging further.

http://www.endtimesreport.com/nonelectric.html

NON ELECTRIC COOKING AND KITCHEN EQUIPMENT

Without proper cooking and kitchen equipment, preparations of food becomes drudgery, wastingboth time and energy, frustrating the family cook beyond his or her stamina. In hard times, if youhavent stocked up well in advance, you will be fortunate just to find the basic ingredients to usein cooking,. Forget fast food restaurants...your ration coupons wont go that far. Food


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preparation will require non electric techniques, and that means canning, drying of fruits andvegetables and smoking of meats.

In just a few minutes I gathered up a variety of canning knives, corers, peelers, etc, and filled acoffee table top with them. I have more, but this was a representative sample. Without those

specialized tools, developed over centuries, preparing foods would be extremely difficult andtime consuming.

[Left to right: canning tools; more canning tools; food chopper; grain and meat grinders; and Squeezo strainer.]

Of the first foods rationed in any emergency is flour. It is possible to store flour for months in arodent safe container kept n a dry location. See #2 Food for more details. Ultimately, however, agrain mill may prove to be a lifesaver. The finest flour is obtained using a mill with stone burrs,but they are relatively fragile and expensive. Steel burr mills are inexpensive and very sturdy,and the flour they produce are certainly quite useable. In addition, steel burr mills can grindsofter grains such as corn and beans which can clog the pores of stone burrs. The standard forhand cranked mills is the Corona, manufactured all over the world. Northern Tool has offered aCorona clone made in China for less than $20.00. Over twenty years ago I purchased a Coronamade in Brazil for $60, so a hand cranked grain mill is less costly than a family meal for four atMcDonalds, and its use can give you bread, the staff of life, forever.

For making sauce from apples, squash, fruits and berries, nothing beats a Victorio strainer. Inany survival scenario, stored vitamins and minerals are extremely important. Fruits andvegetables are the source, of course. They must be stabilized and stored for out of season use.Drying has been used for centuries, canning was invented in the 19th Century, and the reason thattools were designed was to make the work process easier and more precise.

The Victorio Strainer, also called a Squeezo strainer, is a marvel. Simply boil for 20 minutesapple quarters, 2 inch chunks of squash, rhubarb chunks, etc, then run them through the strainerwith the proper screen installed. The peels and small seeds are ejected out the front, and pure,even pulp comes out the side, ready for canning. Berries need only a few minutes of simmering.There are three screens available for the Victorio: small holes for berries, medium sized holes forapples and most uses, and a screen with larger holes for squash.

To properly grind meat, a #2 Universal food chopper, or a meat grinder, are essential. NorthernTool offers inexpensive meat grinders, and food choppers may often be found at flea markets andantique stores for less than $10.00.

SOURCES OF SUPPLY:


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Lehmans Non Electric Catalogue

Printed catalogue price: $5.00 each, but so valuable it could be the best $5.00 you ever spent.

Phone: 330-857-5757

Northern Tool & Equipment

Phone: 800-533-5545

http://www.endtimesreport.com/woodcutting.html

WOOD CUTTING AND SPLITTING TOOLS

There is a popular image of one strong guy with rippling muscles, using only a double bit axe,building a log cabin and chopping all the firewood for heating and cooking with his one trusty

tool.

That image is patently false, as you will be able to judge for yourself.

There are a great many tools which have been invented precisely to make specific operationseasier...or even possible. I gathered up some of my tools and laid them against a wood pile.Though by no means complete, this does represent what is actually needed to efficiently gatherfirewood for cooking and heating.

In the photo, left to right, are the following tools: 6 pound splitting maul, 8 pound splitting maul,11 pound sledgehammer, peavey (or cant hook), cross cut saw, brush hook, pickeroon, and aPulaski. On the ground is a Jonsereds chain saw, and in front of the saw is a 4 pound single jack.


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Double bit axes are available in a varietyof sizes and shapes - each one for adifferent purpose! The rough lookingdouble bit axe on the left is good forlimbing, but has too thick of a blade forfalling or notching.

Limbing and utility work is very hard on an axe - look at the chips in the blade compared to theshiny falling axe. The falling axe is pristine even though used for decades by my father andgrandfather. Neither should be used to split wood!

Single bit axes usually fall into the utility category. They are safer to use when cutting limbs offtrees and other utility work, compared to a double bit axe.

The four pound single bit axe on the left hasa considerably thicker blade than the fallingaxe on the right...it simply cannot get thedepth of cut for easily cutting notches orfalling trees. My father taught me that if youcan't make chips large enough to burn forfirewood when felling a tree, you're usingthe wrong axe.

Splitting wood into stove-sized pieces should be done with the proper splitting maul, or a sledge

hammer and wedges. These tools are needed even if you have a hydraulic log splitter. Ahydraulic log splitter will save an incredible amount of energy compared with manual tools, butoccasionally a piece of oak or other tough wood will not split cleanly, and then a splitting maulbecomes very handy. For more on splitting wood with a hydraulic log splitter, click here.

Splitting mauls shown from the top edge, so you can see the difference inthickness. The 8 pound maul on the left is ideal for hard-to-split wood, as it hasthe heft and thickness to not get stuck in the end grain. The lighter 6 poundmaul on the right is easier to use, but should only be used on easy-to-split woodlike pine or knot-free Douglas fir. Both mauls have "sledge hammer" handles.

Never buy an "axe-eye" handled maul - the handles break far too easily.

Fiberglass handles are easier on your hands, arms and back, as they take upsome of the shock of impact, and fiberglass handles last longer than woodhandles on splitting mauls.

Steel is hardened and tempered to perform various tasks, and they are often not interchangeable.A splitting maul, for example, should NEVER be used as a sledgehammer, or slivers of metalcan be sheared off and put out an eye from a great distance. If you have to drive steel wedges


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into large or knotty sections of wood to split them, then always use a sledgehammer to drivethe wedges. Start the steel wedge into the wood by driving it in an inch or so with a "singlejack," then you can use a long handled sledge hammer without the wedge fear of the wedgecoming back out - fast!

Use a light "single jack" hammer for drivingwedges. The broader face surface does lessdamage to the wedge, and the weight of thesingle jack drives the wedges easily. On theright is an obviously well-used 2 1/2 poundsingle jack. In the center is a 3 pound Estwing.On the left is an 8 pound sledge with an 18"handle for one or two hand operation. See moretools for log cabin building under"Shelter." Carry a single jack in a belt

holder so it is easy to use.

Splitting wedges are steel - cutting wedges are plastic - and they are notinterchangeable!

Two steel splitting wedges. The one on the top has a wide splittingsection and rebated top, so burrs formed from striking with asledgehammer do not project beyond the width of the wedge. Thesimple steel wedge at the bottom is of poor quality steel, and the

burrs stop it from being driven deeper than the top. Quality paysoff in actual use. Start the wedge into the wood with a single jack

before taking a full swing with a sledgehammer!

One should never saw into dirt, or try to saw through brush. The brush hook is used to clearout the area around a tree before felling, and to clear brush away from a fallen tree. The limbs arebest cut off using a heavy single bit axe or Pulaski, then fireplace size chunks (usually 16") arecut using the saw. To avoid cutting into soil and dulling the teeth very quickly, the log is cutabout 2/3rds of the way through every 16" (or whatever is best for you), then the log is rolledover using the peavey, raised somewhat by placing some sections of limb near the middle of thelog. The cuts are then on the bottom, so the log may be cut through from the top to match thebottom cut, and the saw never touches the ground. Each section is then pulled away with apickeroon, if available, before another cut is made. If a log is too large to be rolled over, or hasfallen in such a way that it cannot be moved, then the cut should be held open with a plasticwedge when there is space above the saw blade. Never use steel wedges around a saw! Use aplastic wedge and drive it with a single jack. Falling wedges should also be plastic, and drivenwith the single jack, not a maul. Splitting wedges are steel - cutting wedges are plastic - andthey are notinterchangeable!


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A 5" plastic bucking wedge. A bucking wedge is driven into the cut(kerf) after the cut is 3/4" of the way through to prevent the log fromdropping and pinching the saw blade. Plastic falling wedges have thesame lift, but are at least 10" long.

It should be obvious that the saw used should have sharp teeth. If you use a chainsaw, filing theteeth means having a proper file in a gauge, and the saw bar should be clamped in a vise so itwon't move. Sharpening large cross cut saws is a bit more of a challenge. The proper file andset gauges can often be found in junque or antique shops - as long as you know what to look forand recognize it as a tool. File and set gauges can also be found on eBay...search under "crosscutsaw." Then you need instructions on how to use those tools, as the knowledge base hasevaporated with the demise of the older loggers. The instructions for sharpening are here.

Obviously is easier to saw a log in a cleared area, rather than amongst trees and limbs. Movingthe logs out is called "yarding." Chains, cables and winches can be used to move sections of logs

out of a jumble, and the time involved is more than compensated for by the increased safety andspeed in sawing sections of the log. Logging chains are far better to use than steel cables, aswhen chains break they "lay down," but when cables break they whip around and can causeserious injuries. It is better to have a multitude of 8 to 12 foot chains than a few longer ones, asyou can always couple chains together, or even make your own "chain extender." How? Cutdown a sapling of, say, 4" diameter, strip off the limbs, and place it between sections of chain!You can use as many saplings as necessary to reach the downed section of log. Of course thesaplings wont bend like a chain, but that is irrelevant: you have to pull in a straight line anyway,as manual pulling does not generate the power necessary to twist logs around standing trees.

I use several 12 foot chains for yarding plus an assortment of 2, 3 and 4 foot chains as chokers or

for attaching poles together to extend the length of the yarding chains. Each chain must have ahook at each end, of course. The choker chains have large hooks that will fit over the links of theyarding chains. From my experience, it is better to use a hook with a clevis pin attachment thanto use a soft steel "hammer together" link. The clevis pin can be removed and a larger hookinstalled, if needed, whereas the "hammer together" links are too weak - the "weakest link in thechain."

EndTimesReport.com now available on CD for safekeeping and browsingon your computer anytime. This entire 1,500+ page web site is available as itappears on the web, in Adobe Acrobat. Order your copy from the SurvivalShop.


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Some wood simply cannot be split. Very hard woods, denseor with large knots, etc, do not split except with a great dealof effort. I have found it vastly easier to simply use a largechain saw and cut stove-size pieces of wood, as shown atleft. First the log is cut ("bucked") into suitable sections,

usually 18". Then the section is sliced by cutting with thegrain - the length of the tree - into stove-sized pieces. Thewood box at left has large caster wheels so it can be filledoutside and pushed into the house, and all the debris stays inthe box!

USING CROSSCUT SAWS FOR CUTTING FIREWOOD (Click Here)

TOOLS ARE PRECIOUS - AND IRREPLACEABLE IN HARD TIMES!

Your tools are precious - they may be irreplaceable in hard times. Fortunately, it is easy to keepall your tools in sturdy plastic boxes (crates?) like those used to distribute gallon milk containersto stores. This type of box is now sold by many stores and need not be "liberated" from behind agrocery store. There is almost nothing worse than going out to work on cutting firewood andfinding you have left some essential tools behind, or spending half a day trying to find where

they all are before you can even begin that day's work. The crates solve that problem.

For wood gathering tools (except crosscut saws), I have a large crate for my larger saws (anend cut open for the bars); a crate for wedges, ear muffs (chain saws make NOISE), single jack,saw sharpening tools (in a box to protect them), heavy work gloves, 16" marking stick, a limbsaw to cut a small slice every 16" so I get uniform sections for easy stacking, etc; and a smallcrate with a couple of layers of cardboard on the bottom for chain saw bar oil and a gas/oil canfor fuel. Every crate has a 1 foot long piece of parachute cord tied to one corner, and to the otherend, a medium sized brass snap hook. On each rear corner of the pickup bed I have screwed in aneye bolt, so the snap hooks clip to the eye bolt and keep the crate from sliding around.

Logging chains are an exception to keeping woodcutting tools in crates...the chain links fall outthe holes in the sides and the bottom. For logging chains, I use 50 caliber ammo cans. After usein the woods, the chains are of course wet, and they will rust. The sealed 50 caliber ammo cansmake it easy to spray WD-40 or NAPA Chain & Cable Lube on the chains in the can, and therattling around while on the move will distribute the anti rust oil throughout all the links withoutleaking through to the bed of your pickup, keeping your expensive logging chains rust free andalways ready to use.


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I built shelving in my woodshed to hold the crates, so everything is all together in its place. Togo out to work the beehives means I grab two of the crates and put them in the back of thepickup, then hook them to the eye bolts. Done in less than 2 minutes, and I know everything I'llneed is in those crates. For wood cutting, it takes four crates, but all is there and ready for use inminutes. After a tool is used, it goes back into the proper crate.

Always sharpen a saw when held firmly in a vise. The vise at leftis designed to be sunk into a stump with a single jack, and the barclamped with the screw. Then the teeth can be sharpened straight- and you won't cut yourself! For field use in an emergency, thistype of vise can also be used for crosscut saws, but the depth ofthe vise is not ideal for that use.

At the end of the use season, every tool should be inspected carefully. Mauls and axes shouldbe cleaned and sharpened. Any burrs on the top edge of wedges should be ground down flush(wear eye protection!). Files should be wire brushed and sprayed with rust preventative oil.Saws should be sharpened and have the teeth "set" properly. Chain saws should have the barremoved, all debris brushed off with a stiff bristle brush, the air cleaner washed with gasolineand then replaced, and a new spark plug installed. Then you know that when you need them, allthe tools will work properly - andyou will know where they all are located!

http://www.endtimesreport.com/carpentry.html

CARPENTRY TOOLS FOR REPAIR AND

CONSTRUCTION

Maintaining the livability of your home is a constant challenge in prosperous times as well asperiods of recession or worse. Roofs leak, siding falls apart, porch studs, beams, and pillars mayrot from the bottom, causing a dangerous condition. In hard times, hiring a repairman (if evenavailable!) at $40.00 per hour for simple home repairs may be impossible. With a few basic toolsand a beginning carpentry book on home repairs as a guide, most anything can be repaired by adetermined person with the will to keep his house in order.

Rodale Press (Emmaus, PA 10849) markets a book called "Build It Better Yourself" which hasplans for almost everything. From gardening, cold frames, food dryers, etc, to construction andhome repair projects, it is all there. You will need my "Booklets by Miles" for ultimate survival,as the unique information in these packed guide books is not easily found elsewhere, if at all.

Still useable carpentry tools are often to be found at flea markets, complete with a carpenterscarrying tool box to keep them together and organized. If you have to assemble all of the toolsyourself, it gets more expensive and time consuming.


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Common carpentry tools include 12 and 16 ounce claw hammers, nail pullers, a rip saw, crosscut saw, carpenters square, hack saw, staple gun, 8" and 12" levels, miter box and saw, countersink, hand drill and bit selection, screwdriver set, wood rasps, etc.

A more advanced set of tools would include draw knives, calipers, spoke shaves, hand planes,

scrapers, brace and bits, chisels, soft faced hammers, etc. These items can often be found used atgood prices on eBay. A word to the wise: Buy a good assortment of nails, screws and bolts andnuts. Build your own water level. You will need these to rebuild everything, and they might beimpossible to find in a crisis situation.

In the event of a disaster, or an evacuation to the deep woods, the tools listed above (and thetools listed in woodcutting) are all you need to build a livable log cabin or other shelter whereyou can be warm, safe and protected from the elements - an absolute necessity for long-termsurvival. It normally takes two strong men to build a log cabin, but with levers and pulleys, thejob can be done by one person. Look at the photo below. That log cabin, faced with 1 x 12's onthe upper floor to cut the draft, was built by my father and grandfather - I was born there! The

photo was taken 45 years after the log cabin was built, so ignore the telephone/electric pole - thecabin was built without electric tools, just the hand tools listed above.

One point that is not readily apparent to novice builders should be mentioned. Nails are notmandatory!

Everything does not need to be joined through the use of heavy hammers and huge nails. Take a look at

#14, Gardening, and see the greenhouses and patio I built. Check out #3 Water and see the shed

building I constructed to cover my water storage tank. That construction was entirely done using plated

decking screws. Screws cost more than nails, and the holes should be predrilled, so it takes more time as

well. But, the screws can be removed! This is a huge advantage. If damage should occur, a single stud or

beam can be removed and replaced. This renders the repair job much easier. And if the water tank

develops a leak (God forbid!), the entire building can be easily disassembled, the tank repaired, then the

shed rebuilt piece by piece. If the water tank shed was built using nails, I would be hard pressed to

salvage any useable lumber at all. In most situations, only one side of the shed would be dismantled to

repair the water tank leak, and that is only possible if screws instead of nails are used in construction.

And in a survival mode, wooden pegs in holes made with an augur will secure wooden construction

quite securely.


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http://www.endtimesreport.com/homedefense.html

HOME DEFENSE

We are no longer naive. We will need to defend our homes, indeed our very lives, from now into

the future. Only call 911 for an antidote for poison. The status quo is that the bad guys are thereand gone before the police can even respond. All they can do is take information for the next ofkin. Besides, the Supreme Court has already ruled that police have a duty to the community atlarge, notto any one individual. That's right - the police have "No Affirmative Duty to Protect"us, affirmed by many court decisions! When your home experiences an "home invasion," trydefending yourself with your kids baseball bat against bad guys armed with AK-47's.

America is polarized with political opposites no longer able to compromise, with a huge influx ofillegal aliens, etc. Throw in the possibility of a banking meltdown, trucker strike or wide-spreadterrorist "events" creating food shortages, and civility can be quickly lost. Assault by one sidecan only be met with bold defense or subjugation on the other side. The result? Anarchy. It

will happen. And when it happens, will you be able to defend yourself?


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PERSONAL DEFENSE IS NOT THE SAME

AS HOME DEFENSE. Personal defense meansalways having the means to defend yourself available at alltimes. The North American Arms mini revolver in .22 LRshown at right only weighs 4 ounces, but 5 rounds ofhollow points are better than a sharp stick anytime! Sure,a .45 auto is vastly superior to a .22 in battle, but personaldefense often comes down to a knife versus a gun...and agun wins every time, particularly if the handgun is readilyavailable. The excellent Multi-Purpose carry case canhold a mini .22 and some ammo in a belt case that does notappear to be a holster. Available at my Survival Shop.

IF YOU HAVE TO CHOOSE ONLY ONE WEAPON FOR HOME DEFENSE.....

Pepper sprays and slingshots will work just fine to infuriate an enemy...might as well build acatapult and hurl your stored food, and when that runs out, fling them your wife and kids. So

ultimately, were talking guns for home defense.

(NOTE: What I am going to say about firearms is for defensive use, not offensive use, and

within the narrow view ofHome Defense only - the purpose of this article. This is not to say

that other weapons would not be very useful for other purposes, or that other weapons

could not be used for Home Defense! This narrow definition is being written for those who

do NOT already own firearms, and only wish one (1) weapon for Home Defense only.

Personally, I believe the more, the merrier. The lowly .22 Long Rifle is incredibly useful

for survival, as are the newer spring-powered air rifles that can attain 1000 fps in .17

caliber. But "survival" is not the same as "defense.")

The primary object in home defense is to hit the target while avoiding such power andpenetration that unintended victims are not hit. Obviously, if you are familiar with and havefirearms, you are going to use what you have. But if you dont have a firearm and are going tobuy one (1) for home defense, I recommend a shotgun. But not just any shotgun. Most commonshotguns are 12 gauge waterfowl guns with long, full choke barrels. They are unwieldy inconfined spaces, more powerful than required, overly noisy in confined spaces, and "kick" toomuch for novice shooters.

A 12 gauge "riot" shotgunfired in a house produces

an incredibly deafeningblast!

Twelve gauge "riot" shotguns with folding stocks are a particular problem with the stockunfolded. The hard synthetic stock is straight or slightly raised toward the front, not slopeddownward toward the action. When the shotgun is fired, the shotgun raises in recoil, and the


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hard synthetic stock seems to jump straight up into your cheekbone with a teeth rattling jolt. Asofter cheek piece is needed, and it should be black or dark grey to match the stock and sturdyclosed cell foam, so it will not hold water. The answer? Water pipe insulation tubing! Thetubing is 3/8" thick foam, so it is thin enough to allow the stock to fold in the normal manner, yetthick enough to provide some cushioning from the brutal recoil when used unfolded.

At left is a 4" long piece of 3/4" pipe insulation glued to the topof the folding butt stock using "Household Goop." A channelwas cut out of the round pipe insulation (as shown) for a goodfit. The 3/8" insulation makes a soft cheek piece, the shotguncan be fired without the feeling your teeth are going to rattleloose, and the stock still folds up tight against the action.

As women and older children could be using this home defense shotgun, bulk, weight, recoil and

noise are definitely factors to consider. Thus, a .410 bore shotgun is a great choice. A 3 inch.410 shot shell fires 3/4 ounce of shot at 1100 feet per second, resulting in approximately 800foot pounds of energy at the muzzle, and a 2 " .410 with ounce of shot producesapproximately 600 foot pounds at the muzzle. The delivered energy atthedefense rangesconsideredhere are greater than a .357 Magnum revolver cartridge, but the longer barrel andgreater weight of the shotgun results in less than half the noise and recoil. More important, theshot pattern is about 8 inches in diameter at 20 feet (full choke), and does not generally penetratea wall, whereas a .357 Mag bullet pierces walls easily...and unintended victims on the other side.

In the close confines of home defense, a smalldot laser light has limited usefulness. I mounteda 1" tube light with 8 super-bright LED's and atail button switch. In the dark, the LED light ismore than enough...if the target is lit up, it will

be hit. The nice wide, non-marring clamp ismodel #SMC-1100 from www.allenslaw.com .

(There are those who will claim that the lowly .410 shot shell is too underpowered, even lessthan a .357 Magnum revolver. They are making their judgment based on recoil - comparing a.357 Magnum revolver versus a .410 shotgun. Bad comparison, as a full length shotgun isheavier and held by two hands. I've got a .45 Colt/.410 derringer: recoil with a 2 1/2" .410 is

extremely heavy, far worse than with a .357 Magnum derringer, and stronger than with the .45Colt; recoil with a full length 3" Magnum .410 shot shell is fearsome enough to make justhanging onto the derringer extremely difficult. That recoil is easily tamed by the weight andlength of a .410 shotgun.)

Of course home defense means more than defense against two legged creature. In anybreakdown of civilization, a weapon like a shotgun becomes critical. Pet dogs are abandoned,join in packs and quickly become feral. The can, and do, attack domestic animals, pets, and are


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even a danger to children. Raccoons can get into a chicken coop and kill a flock very quickly.Rabid dogs are not uncommon in a societal disaster. These must be dispatched quickly, yet theyare a moving target and hard to hit. This is where a shotgun really shines, as the pattern of shot iseasier to put on target than a single bullet fired by someone shaking under extreme anxiety andstress, and repeat shots are more likely to put additional pellets into the target zone. A .410 bore,

3" magnum with #4 pellets is up to the task -- at reasonable ranges. Don't think these are 100yard range weapons!

Hunting for food may well be necessary in the future. Small birds such as quail can be taken witha 2 " .410, larger birds with a 3" magnum, and game up to deer (at fairly close ranges) takenwith a .410 slug load.

THE BEST HOME DEFENSE .410 SHOTGUN?

One excellent .410 bore shotgun for home defense was actually designed specifically for thattask...wonder of wonders. The Mossberg HS410 (the "HS" an acronym for "Home Security",model #50359) is a 6 shot pump action shotgun with an 18 " barrel having a spreader choke,ideal for close action shooting in home defense situations. The stock is synthetic and the rightlength of pull for women and older children (but still works with large men), the actionextremely rugged and reliable, and the short length makes it very handy in confined spaces. Theprice? About $360.00 in 2005.

Now there is another excellent .410 bore shotgun on the market which may well be as good as orbetter than the Mossberg HS410 - the SAIGA .410 SHOTGUN. The cost of the Saiga is onlyabout $270.00 - delivered, in 2005. It is an adaptation of the Kalashnikov designed AK-47designed to fire .410 Magnum shot shells, has a semi-automatic action, and it comes with twomagazines. With its 19" barrel, it would be handy in confined places, and it also comes with twochoke tubes, increasing its versatility. The rate of fire would be better than with the Mossberg,and reliability is reportedly extremely high, but as with everything there are other factors toconsider: A semi-auto action is less tolerant of loads than a slide action such as the Mossberg, soreloading for the Saiga requires more care and testing to be certain of reliable feeding. Moreinformation on the Saiga .410 shotgun can be found at http://www.weareguns.com/saiga.html


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An additional .410 shotgun which some may want to consider is the Winchester lever action9410, a variation of the venerable Winchester 94 lever action first introduced on January 1, 1895.In some variations, it holds 9 rounds of 2 1/2" shells in a very long tubular magazine, but theoverall length is not conducive to easy handling in a home as compared with the overall length ofeither the Saiga or the Mossberg HS410. The 9410 is not chambered for the 3" Magnum .410

shell. Loading a tubular magazine is slower than simply changing magazines as with the Saiga,and it costs more than the Saiga. Nevertheless, there are those who love lever actions, and this isthe only one of which I am aware that is chambered for .410 shotshells. www.cdnnsports.comhas both the Saiga semi-auto and Winchester 9410 lever action at very competitive prices.

One lonely .410 shotgun will not suffice as complete home defense against a determinedband armed with 7.62 x 39 mm AK-47's. But that is not the issue here. Either the MossbergHS410 or the Saiga .410 willprovide deterrence against such attacks, and time is always on yourside in any conflict: given resistance, most attackers will give up and go on to easier pickings.Against a lesser attack, either shotgun should be equal to the task at hand, and far better thannothing at all.

If you already have a good selection of home defense weapons, make sure you can reload for allof them. Ammo will make great barter stock in the future. My booklet, "Survival Reloading,"includes reloading data for just about any cartridge (not shot shells) you would ever encounter,using hand tools or bench tools, andwith only three different smokeless powders, so you canstockpile and be covered with whatever comes your way.

DON'T DO THIS!

Respect yourOWN privacy and

keep off any

government lists.

Why invite

trouble?

http://www.worldnetdaily.com/index.php?pageId=97491

Saturday, May 09, 2009

HOMELAND INSECURITY

WorldNetDaily Exclusive

Next step? No guns allowed for right-wing 'extremists'

Bill empowers attorney general to forbid firearms for those 'suspected dangerous'


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By Drew Zahn

WorldNetDaily

Rep. Peter King, R-N.Y.

A new gun law being considered in Congress, if aligned with Department of Homeland Security

memos labeling everyday Americans as potential "threats," could potentially deny firearms to pro-

lifers, gun-rights advocates, tax protesters, animal rights activists, and a host of others - any already

on the expansive DHS watch list for potential "extremism."

Rep. Peter King, R-N.Y., has sponsored H.R. 2159, the Denying Firearms and Explosives to Dangerous

Terrorists Act of 2009, which permits the attorney general to deny transfer of a firearm to any

"known or suspected dangerous terrorist." The bill requires only that the potential firearm transferee

is "appropriately suspected" of preparing for a terrorist act and that the attorney general "has a

reasonable belief" that the gun might be used in connection with terrorism.

Gun rights advocates, however, object to the bill's language, arguing that it enables the federal

government to suspend a person's Second Amendment rights without any trial or legal proof and

only upon suspicion of being "dangerous."

.410 BORE SHOT SHELL AMMO

Surprisingly, 3" .410 bore shot shells cost twice as much as the much larger and more common

12 gauge shotgun shells, being priced at about $8 per box of 25. For the purpose of homedefense, one does not need to have an armory full of ammo, though. I would recommend at leastfour (4) boxes of 3" .410's and four (4) boxes of 2 " .410 shells at a minimum, all with #4shot. Those who are smart would also have a simple reloading kit for .410 and some reloadingcomponents as well.

Remember that I wrote above that one advantage of the .410 is a lack of penetration? That canalso be a disadvantage if you dont know where to aim. Number 4 shot is definitely not going topenetrate body armor, and many intruders now wear such readily available equipment. Oneadvantage of a shotgun that can be used to offset that factor, however, is the very pattern thatmakes precise aiming not so critical: shoot at the face. It is unprotected, and even a visor wont

help much. At longer ranges even a few pellets in the cheeks will discourage a determinedopponent, cause it hurts, and they will know you are as intent on hurting them as they are intenton hurting you. Turnabout is fair play! "Aim" with a shotgun means looking down the barrel andseeing the front sight...there usually isnt a rear sight. The target is placed on top of the sight forthe pellet pattern to strike correctly on bird sized game. On larger game, such as a feral dog, aimat the bottom of the body and the shot pattern should be in the chest area. If shooting at longerranges, remember that small sized shot lacks mass and being circular has a poor ballistic


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coefficient, so it drops about 8 inches from line of sight at about 50 yards, so aim a little higheron the target.

HANDGUNS FORSELF DEFENSE

The great debate regarding handguns for self defense usually comes down to the subjective issueof "stopping power." I used the word "subjective" deliberately. There are those who citemilitary experiments (Gen. Hatcher) as "proving" that only .45 caliber handgun bullets as havingacceptable stopping power usually do not mention that the bullets used were "hardball," nonexpanding round nose bullets conforming to the Geneva Convention guidelines. A 185 grain,.452" round nose bullet fired from a 1911 Colt in .45 ACP does not "cut" a .45" hole in the"target," but rather punctures a .45" hole because of the round nose. And in many cases that nonexpanding bullet has too much penetration for home defense, so it does not transfer all of itsenergy to the first "target." Often there is sufficient penetration to go through a wall behind the

first target and endanger an innocent. The trick, then, is to obtain at least .45" expansion with fulltransfer of deliverable energy within the body of the first "target," with no excessive penetration.

Sufficient "stopping power" for home defense can be obtained with a 0.357" bullet if it isproperly chosen and reloaded to acceptable velocities. The photo above shows the results oftests using a Speer .357" hollow base wadcutter - loaded backwards - with the full hugehollowpoint exposed. At the extreme left above is a .38 S&W cartridge with a Speer 38 HBWCloaded backwards, and at right is a .38 Special with the same bullet. The load was 3.0 grains ofRed Dot, for a "real world" velocity of over 820 fps in a 3" barrel. Recoil was extremely mildand the load is suitable even for old top-break .38 S&W's.

Bullet #1 was loaded with the hollow base down, as normal. Penetration was far too great andthere was no expansion. This loading is unacceptable for home defense.

Bullet #2 was loaded backward, but the bullet hit solid bone. There was no "fluid" to effect anopening of the hollow cavity, so the cavity collapsed and the bullet nose "self forged" into a spirepoint. Expansion was to 0.625" with very sharp cutting edges, and penetration was notexcessive.

Bullet #3 was loaded backward and fired into fluid with no solid object hit (a "gut shot").Hydraulic effect in the hollow cavity resulted in expansion to 0.694", and penetration was 6".


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The hydrostatic shock of this bullet is incredible, and there was full transfer of 200 ft. lbs ofenergy within 6" of bullet impact travel.

Bullet #4 was loaded backward and first hit soft tissue and fluid, then hit hard bone. Thehydraulic effect opened the hollow cavity which was then further expanded by contact with a

hard object. Expansion was to 0.800" with sharp cutting edges. This is almost twice thediameter of a .45 ACP bullet - and the sharp edges combined with the rotational aspect impartedby the rifling had a cutting power not possible with a non expanding round nose 0.452" bullet atthe same velocity.

Properly loaded, even an ancient top break .38 S&W has adequate "stopping power" for homedefense. "Properly loaded" includes overall cartridge length. There is no ogive on the full-diameter hollow base wadcutter loaded backwards, but revolver chambers have a "step" in theforward portion of the cylinder for the bullet. The bullets must be seated deeply enough toslightly enter the chamber fully without resistance. As individual handguns have differentspecifications for chamber dimensions, the loaded cartridges must be tried in each chamber to

obtain the correct seating depth. That is why the seating depth of the bullets in the cartridgesshown above is not the same.

Loaded into a .38 Special case to velocities exceeding 950 fps, expansion of the backwards-loaded hollow base wadcutter is spectacular, often resulting in considerable bulletfragmentation. For home defense, however, the higher velocity is not needed, as it results inconsiderably higher recoil and noise, neither of which is desirable when fired from a smallhandgun fired in the confines of a closed room.

Links to more information:

RELOADING .410 BORE SHOT SHELLS

"HOMELAND SECURITY" RELOADING,by John Derby

SURVIVAL RELOADING BY MILES STAIR

http://www.endtimesreport.com/medical.html

5

. Medical/HealthMexican (H1N1) Swine Flu (Click here)

UPDATE March 17, 2006: In "Preparing For a Pandemic," Darlene Washington, thedirector of disease prevention education at the American Red Cross said "...weencourage families to have supplies on hand like flashlights and batteries, matches.Hand-cranked or battery-operated radios...


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We have grown soft and accustomed to cleanliness, proper hygiene, and the lack ofdisease as some sort of "right." Our modern world is safe due to the well-oiledmachinery of sanitation: clean water, regular refuse collection and proper disposal,automated sewerage treatment facilities, and relatively well functioning medicalfacilities. In the breakdown of any civilized society, diseases now common to third world

countries spring up is if by magic.

Remember your history lessons of how all immigration used to be strictly controlled, andall immigrants were quarantined for a period of time before being allowed into thecountry? That was to control the spread of infectious diseases! Our own government willnot define (close) our borders and control illegal immigration. Our "country" now hasopen borders, with thousands of foreigners sneaking in daily from third world countries -- and many are carriers of typhus and cholera, among other diseases. Perhaps we arenot really a "country" at all now, as by definition a "country" must define its borders andits citizens -- those who belong and those who do not. For decades the Vatican refusedto recognize Israel as a country simply because Israel would not define its borders.

Throughout history, great societies have always risen -- and fallen. We are witnessingthe end of our Pax Romana, or should I say Pax Americana. Goodbye civilization. Helloanarchy and all the chaos it brings.

During troubled times you cannot depend upon others to be there and take care of youand your family. You must be prepared to do it yourself. And prepare we must, as ourinfrastructure is incredibly fragile and targeted by terrorists.

H5N1 Coming - So, What Do We Do?

Public health officials have created the chilling scenario of hospitals and other health facilitiesbeing overwhelmed by the number of patients seeking treatment and other health services;health professionals being reduced in number because they, after being exposed to the virus,are themselves down with the sickness; anti-viral agents and antibiotics being exhausted;basic services like power, water, transportation, and communication severely strained byabsenteeism; drugstores, grocery stores, restaurants, and public markets closed andpadlocked to prevent looting by a desperate population.

Most people would have to fend for themselves. If a member of the family got infected, he willhave to be taken care of and treated by the others at home. Should families now stock up onanti-viral agents and medicines, and foodstuff like rice, canned goods, drinking water, andeven face masks and rubber gloves? Who would determine when and what dosage ofmedicine should be given the sick person, or who would administer intravenous antibioticssince health practitioners may be fully occupied at health centers or are themselvesincapacitated by the flu?

BIRD FLU, LIBERTY, AND QUARANTINE

America is handling Bird Flu much as medieval Europe handled Black Plague. In the greatbubonic plague year of 1348 some cities lost 40% of their populations to the horrendouscontagion. Medieval quarantines, sanitary cordons, and health passports were necessary tokeep sick people in their homes or cities where they lived, suffered, and died, and well people


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kept out of the quarantined areas and away from the infected. Brute force was required.

In his October 4 Rose Garden news conference, President Bush announced that in case ofthe potential disaster of a Bird Flu epidemic, he favored the military rather than local and stateresponders because, as he stated, quarantines would be necessary.

A quarantine today, just as in the Middle Ages, is an official legal restraint on people enteringand people leaving a particular place. A house can be quarantined and everyone insideprohibited from leaving and no one permitted to get in. A block can be cordoned off andsimilarly quarantined. A section of a city, an entire city, or a geographic region can bequarantined. The idea is to keep the disease raging where it is and not spreading to the rest ofthe population outside the site of quarantine.

Quarantine through the centuries has lead to murders of those who impose and maintain thequarantines. Naturally everyone inside the quarantine wants to escape. Those cordoned outof the place of contagion do not want to get near it, or accept products from it, unless theirfamily or their valuables are inside. That is powerful incentive to risk entrance to the forbiddenplace.

In case of a Bird Flu epidemic, President Bush intends to preempt state and local officials,assure a declaration of martial law, and force people to be imprisoned in their quarantineswith the armed force of the American military. Contemplate what that means to you and to thisnation.

Bird Flu: Personal Preparedness Must Include These 4 Critical Areas

There are four essential areas that you must address to prepare for the bird-flu pandemic: 1)"social distancing"; 2) commodities--including food, 3) personal protective equipment (PPE),and 4) financial preparation. [Click the link above for an excellent article by Bradford Frank,M.D. I have been preaching preparedness for decades, and this web site is devoted toinformation on how to prepare. Dr. Frank gives you the reasons whyyou should prepare.

Being prepared means having some basic medical equipment and first aid supplies,available easily and inexpensively through Internet sources and even local retail stores.Taking a CPR course, even an emergency medical technician course, is only prudent.Good medical literature is available for advanced first aid, but much is far toosimplified...."Get the patient to a doctor, fast." That advice is virtually worthless, as theremay be no doctor, and no "getting" anyplace! Fortunately, there are medical booksavailable for sailors and other adventurers which contain very clear and detailedinformation for help when no physician is available. Ive had a copy of "Advanced First

Aid Afloat" by Dr. Peter F. Eastman, MD, for over20 years, and value it highly. It wasavailable from Cornell Maritime Press, Centreville, Maryland, ISBN # 0-87033-169-8.

My copy was $6.00

, but I'm sure the cost is considerably more now.N

evertheless, Ibought a bound copy of Survival and Austere Medicine (below), even though I have the.pdf version on my computer.

This entire EndTimesReport.com web site is now available on CD for when the Internet fails or thepower grid goes down. in Adobe Acrobat, for $13.95 plus postage. 1


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Being prepared also means having some medicines on hand, and the knowledge ofhow they are used. People in need can always resort to home remedies which havebeen used for years with decent results: knowledge andsupplies are both desirable.There is a method ofdisinfecting exposed surfaces that you can do at home.


23/108

Part of being prepared for medical emergencies is simply thinking ahead. Forexample, in really hard times people will be out cutting firewood, perhaps even buildinglog structures. They are going to get cut or at the very least get splinters in variousparts of their anatomy. One trick which has been used is regular super glue. A dab ofsuper glue on a splinter will dry to the splinter, and then tweezers can pull it out. But

what about a thin slice on a leg or arm? I'm not talking about a deep cut, but rather ashallow slice that leave a large flap of skin that is slow to heal. These happen often andcan be debilitating, even life threatening if the person has to walk to an evacuation area,or just be able to continue working. First, the wound can be thoroughly cleansed byflushing with oxygen peroxide. Once the bleeding has stopped, the wound can belightly packed with Nolvasan Antiseptic Ointment. Then the edges of the cut arecarefully cleaned and flap of skin super glued in place. The entire area must then bewrapped with an Ace bandage and must be checked for abscesses periodically, but theperson can at least be mobile again instead of being a liability on a whole family group.

Another example of thinking ahead and being prepared is foreye injuries. Eyes are

very delicate! In very difficult times, people will be doing hard work, sometimes underexpedient conditions. Debris can get into eyes, and eyes can be burned. Thetreatment required is mentioned in the articles linked below, but bears repeating. Donot rub injured eyes! Eyes should be flushed with copious quantities clear water or asaline solution to flush out any debris or chemicals that can cause burns. "Flushing"means more than a slow dribble of water! A squirt from an eye dropper is barelyadequate. Actually, turkey basters work very well, as they hold a lot more water but donot produce too much water pressure. Metal slivers from striking metal tools or weldingcan become stuck in an eye and not be flushed out with water. A small, powerfulmagnet, such as a pencil type stud finder, can be very carefully moved 1/2" over the eyewhile holding the eyelids up, and ferrous metal particles will spring up to the magnet.But the eye will still be injured, and eye injuries are extremely painful, so treatment isneeded. Prilocaine, orNeomycin eye drops, will help the eye heal very quickly, andalso lessen the pain considerably, but those antibiotics are prescription items and mustbe on hand. Farm animals are always scratching their eyes, and ranchers often treatthose eye injuries using "NFZ Puffer," a veterinary medicine 0.2%Nitrofurazome. Someranchers use it on human eye injuries as well (heeding the advise on the label thatsome people are hypersensitive to this medication) when a physician is not availableand losing an eye could well result from no antibiotic treatment at all. If there is anirritant reaction, flushing the eyes with copious quantities of water will quickly dilute theNitrofurazome, as it is water soluble. Then, of course, the eye should be covered with apatch so there will be no incentive to move the eye and continue any irritation. Thetreatments mentioned above are repeated daily until the eye is healed.


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With readily available medicines you can treat cholera andtyphus, theplague,and other diseases with broad spectrumantibiotics.Those who have the ability of discernment canstockpile certain veterinary medicines if they cannot obtain

other types from a physician. It is very important to know howlong medications last.

I sometimes have the feeling that honest, tax paying, God fearing citizens have theirheads in the sand when it comes to emergency medical preparedness, like they justdont "get it." Heck, even the radical left gives medical advice for protesters, but thecommon person is left out in the cold.

The new H5N1 avian virus spreading around the world now, in June, 2005 March, couldwell prove to be a roaring pandemic by the winter of2005, killing millions of people

worldwide. There is reportedly a news blackout on this avian flu in the US media, butreliable reports are that 121 of the 200 people in China who contracted this flu havedied - it is extremely lethal! Large areas of China are quarantined in a vain attempt tokeep this avian flue from spreading. Being a new strain of flu, no one has immunity.The Bush administration has issued an Executive Order for the quarantine of civilianswhen the H5N1 avian flu reaches the United States.

Get prepared! It could save your life in the not too distant future. You will be on yourown.

http://www.endtimesreport.com/jet.html

Potential Radioactive Fallout Across the Continental United States


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Continental US Fallout Pattern for Prevailing WindsTo check the precise daily jet stream map, click here.

North Korea detonated an underground nuke on May 25, 2009. I have detected no radiation fromthat test, nor is any expected. However, the North Koreans also unilaterally repudiated the 1953cease fire agreement and thus we are technically at war again. On May 31, 2009, North Koreabegan moving an ICBM to a launch pad. Very bad news. I will be checking for radiation frequentlywhen hostilities begin.

This is the most commonly used prevailing wind predicted fallout pattern, but remember, fallout can goanywhere or everywhere (and probably will). I will update this site continually if needed, so you will atleast have a clue what is headed your way.

Due to the possibility of a war with Iran or North Korea that could well include nuclear weapons, Ido check my radiation meters and they are reading normal background radiation only.

Date: May 31, 2009 Time: 3:00 PM HOT SPOT: none (R/hr);

Survey Meter Reading: Normal background

Dosimeter accumulation: None (Roentgens)

Elapsed time of dosimeter recording:

"Hot Spot" readings are different from "background" readings. In the event of large particletertiary fallout, a single particle per square meter can produce a reading many times greaterthan the background reading, as measured in Roentgens per hour (R/hr). Neither of thosemethods of measuring radioactivity involve an accumulated dose of radiation -- whichrequires the use of a dosimeter. All of these reading are critical in determining the rate of


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radioactive decay, and thus the time required to stay indoors as well as the amount and type ofshielding required.

Look at the jet stream map above. I live about 30 miles from Cape Blanco, the farthest westpoint on the map in SW Oregon. Check the dailyjet stream map and you will know if you are

downwind from my location; my readings may not be precise for your particular area, but atleast for tertiary fallout you will have some clue as to what is heading your way via the jetstream.

I will update this page as frequently as required if I detect tertiary fallout.

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Addressing the Unthinkable, U.S. Revives Study of Fallout

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/19/national/19NUKE.html

By WILLIAM J. BROAD, New York Times

March 19, 2004

To cope with the possibility that terrorists might someday detonate a nuclear bomb on Americansoil, the federal government is reviving a scientific art that was lost after the cold war: fallout

analysis.

The goal, officials and weapons experts both inside and outside the government say, is to figureout quickly who exploded such a bomb and where the nuclear material came from. That wouldclarify the options for striking back. Officials also hope that if terrorists know a bomb can betraced, they will be less likely to try to use one.

In a secretive effort that began five years ago but whose outlines are just now becoming known,the government's network of weapons laboratories is hiring new experts, calling in old-timers,dusting off data and holding drills to sharpen its ability to do what is euphemistically known asnuclear attribution or post-event forensics.

It is also building robots that would go into an affected area and take radioactive samples, as wellas field stations that would dilute dangerous material for safe shipment to national laboratories.

"Certainly, there's a frightening aspect in all of this," said Charles B. Richardson, the projectleader for nuclear identification research at the Sandia National Laboratories in Albuquerque."But we're putting all these things together with the hope that they'll never have to be used."


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Most experts say the risk of a terrorist nuclear attack is low but no longer unthinkable, given thespread of material and know-how around the globe.

Dr. Jay C. Davis, a nuclear scientist who in 1999 helped found the Pentagon's part of thegovernment wide effort, said the precautions would "pay huge dividends after the event, both in

terms of the ability to identify the bad actor and in terms of establishing public trust."

In a nuclear crisis, Dr. Davis added, the identification effort would be vital in "dealing with thedesire for instant gratification through vengeance."

Vice President Dick Cheney was briefed on the program last fall, Dr. Davis said. The NationalSecurity Council coordinates the work among a dozen or so federal agencies.

The basic science relies on faint clues -- tiny bits of radioactive fallout, often invisible to the eye,that under intense scrutiny can reveal distinctive signatures. Such wisps of evidence can helpidentify an exploded bomb's type and characteristics, including its country of origin.

Solving the nuclear whodunit could take much more information, including hard-won lawenforcement clues and good intelligence on foreign nuclear arms and terrorist groups. For thatreason, several federal agencies are involved in the program, among them the Department ofHomeland Security and the Federal Bureau of Investigation.

The program addresses true nuclear weapons as well as so-called dirty bombs, ordinaryexplosives that spew radioactive debris.

"It's a very hard job," said William Happer, a physicist at Princeton who led a panel thatevaluated the identification work.

Mr. Happer said he was worried that a rush for retribution after a nuclear attack might cut shortthe time needed for careful analysis. "If we lose a city," he said, "we might not wait around thatlong."

The effort to fingerprint domestic nuclear blasts is part of a larger federal project to strengthenthe nation's overall defenses against unconventional terrorist threats. Mostly, the goal isprevention. For instance, the government recently sent teams of scientists with hidden radiationdetectors to check major American cities for signs that terrorists might be preparing to detonateradiological bombs.

In contrast, the identification program seeks to increase the government's knowledge and optionsshould prevention fail. "We're trying to resurrect some of our capability," said Reid Worlton, aretired nuclear scientist from the Los Alamos weapons laboratory in New Mexico who has beencalled in to aid the fallout endeavor. "It sort of died. They're not doing radiochemistry on nucleartests anymore, so it's hard to keep these people around."

The effort draws on work that began at the dawn of the atomic era. Scientists working on the


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Manhattan Project built an array of devices to monitor nuclear blasts in the New Mexico desertin July 1945 and at Hiroshima and Nagasaki a month later. The experience helped scientists learnwhat to look for.

The first hunt zeroed in on the Soviet Union. In the late 1940's, military weather planes used

paper filters to gather dust particles around the periphery of Russia, and scientists in the UnitedStates who analyzed the data at first sounded dozens of false alarms, said Jeffrey T. Richelson,an intelligence expert in Washington.

Then, on Sept. 3, 1949, a weather plane flying from Japan to Alaska picked up a slew of atomicparticles. "That was the real thing," Mr. Richelson said. Twenty days later, President Harry S.Truman announced that the Soviets had exploded their first nuclear device.

The ranks of fallout investigators swelled during the cold war as foreign nations conductedhundreds of atmospheric nuclear tests. By all accounts, the sleuths made many importantdiscoveries about the nature and design of foreign nuclear arms.

In time, the ranks dwindled as more and more nations decided to move their test explosionsunderground, eliminating fallout. The last nuclear blast to pummel the earth's atmosphere was in1980, and the last known underground test, conducted by Pakistan, was in 1998.

As the terrorist threat rose in the 1990's, the government began to consider the quandary thatwould arise if a nuclear weapon exploded on American soil. In 1999, Dr. Davis, then head of theDefense Threat Reduction Agency at the Pentagon, began an effort to address the identificationproblem by financing research at the nation's weapons laboratories, many of them run by theEnergy Department.

The first money came in late 2000, Dr. Davis said, and the attacks of September 2001 "made itclear that a very organized event on a large scale was credible." That perception, he said, helpedthe effort expand.

The secretive work won rare public praise in a June 2002 report ("Making the Nation Safer")from the National Research Council of the National Academies, the country's leading scientificadvisory group. Having the ability to find out who launched a domestic nuclear strike, the reportsaid, could deter attackers and bolster threats of retaliation. The report urged that the program gointo operation "as quickly as practical" and that the government publicly declare its existence.

Since then, weapons laboratories and other federal agencies have worked hard on the problem."They're making progress but they've got a ways to go," said Mr. Worlton, the retired LosAlamos scientist.

In a drill this year, dozens of federal experts in fallout analysis met at the Sandia laboratories inAlbuquerque to study a simulated terrorist nuclear blast. Mr. Worlton said they were broken intoteams and given radiological data from two old American nuclear tests, whose identitiesremained hidden, and were instructed to try to name them. Some teams succeeded, he said.


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Mr. Richardson of Sandia said the laboratory was developing a land robot that could roll up to 10miles to sample fallout and return it to human operators for analysis. It could also radio backsome results if it became stuck. Mr. Richardson said the robots, now in development, are to beready in a couple of years.

Experts say a new aircraft for atmospheric sampling of nuclear fallout is also in development.The Air Force currently has one, the WC-135W Constant Phoenix, for such work. It was firstdeployed in 1965.

Weapons experts say getting samples fast is important because some radioactive debris candecay rapidly. If captured quickly, they can shed light on a weapon's design.

One way of trying to identify a bomb's origin positively, several experts say, is to match debrissignatures with libraries of classified data about nuclear arms around the world, including oldfallout signatures and more direct intelligence about bomb types, characteristics and constructionmaterials.

"If you're talking about a stolen device, you might try to do that," Mr. Richardson said. "But ifit's improvised, that's less likely to work. It might not look like things you've seen before."

A further complication is that even knowing who made a bomb may say little about whodetonated it. In a 1991 Tom Clancy novel, "The Sum of All Fears," Islamic terrorists find andrebuild an Israeli nuclear weapon and set it off at the Super Bowl.

Federal experts say complex threat scenarios (for instance, an American warhead being stolenand detonated in an American city) mean that many types of intelligence might be needed forsuccessful identification. Over all, it is unclear how much money the government is spending onthe effort.

Private experts offered suggestions for improvement. Dr. Happer of Princeton, who heads auniversity board that helps oversee campus research, said the program might be cooperating toolittle with nuclear allies. "It's to our advantage," he said, "for all of us to share."

Dr. Davis, the former head of the Defense Threat Reduction Agency, made several policyrecommendations last April in an article for The Journal of Homeland Security. He said the F. B.I. should lead the program, presidentially appointed overseers should guide it, goals should be setfor how long analyses should take and legal issues of prosecution should be examined.

In an interview, Dr. Davis said his suggestions had made little headway, partly because of thetopic's grisly nature. "This is an ugly subject because your best effort is going to be barelyadequate," he said. "That's not the kind of phrase people like to hear."

Mr. Richardson of Sandia said that the attribution effort had made good technical progress andhad already some ability to identify an attacker.

"We're hoping for deterrence," he said. "We don't want anybody to think they can get away with


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it."

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/03/19/national/19NUKE.html

And the reason for this "secretive effort that began five years ago but whose outlines are just now

becoming known" was actually published in the UK just days after the post above waspublished. It can happen here, which is why I wrote the booklet "Evacuation and Relocation,"and why I wrote what is listed on the War Preparations page on this web site.

Dirty bomb victims 'may be shot'

http://news.scotsman.com/uk.cfm?id=547552003JOHN INNES, March 15, 2004

POLICE could be forced to shoot members of the public to maintain order in the event of aterrorist "dirty bomb" or biological attack on Britain, it was claimed yesterday.

The Police Federation annual conference in Blackpool was told that so few officers have beentrained to deal with a chemical, biological, nuclear or radiological strike that they would have toresort to "very unsavoury but necessary" crowd control.

Bob Elder, the chairman of the constables central committee, did not refer specifically toofficers firing on civilians, but sources within the organisation said it was clear police could haveto resort to firearms to stop contamination being spread by fleeing victims.

The government had failed to explain how important it would be to keep the public inside acordon after such an atrocity, Mr Elder said.

"This is not about creating mass hysteria," he said. "This is about the opposite. The public has aright to know.

"The natural reaction from the public caught up in such an incident will be to get as far awayfrom the scene as possible. This could, of course, only extend the problem."

In another reference to the possible use of firearms to keep control of an area, Mr Elder added:"We will be the ones who would have to carry out that containment and we would be the onesheld responsible for our actions - whatever those may be."

Asked if he could foresee officers firing on civilians, he said: "Its an option the government isgoing to have to consider. We havent got enough cops trained to deal with full-scalecontainment and its putting everyone at risk."

A spokesman for the Home Office insisted police would not have powers to shoot the public toenforce a cordon in the event of a chemical, biological, nuclear or radiological strike attack.


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"Police have the right to detain people if they present a risk to the public," he said. "There are nocircumstances in which police could operate some kind of shoot to kill policy under the law."

http://www.endtimesreport.com/preservationoils.html

PRESERVATION OILS, LUBRICANTS, GRINDING ANDSHARPENING STONES, FILES....

PRESERVING OILS

One oil does not fit all uses.

Preservative oils are not created equal. Lubricating oils for machinery generally lack rustproofing qualities. Shafts on food grinders, choppers, strainers, etc, should be lubricated withfood grade oil, which usually means olive oil, but for long term storage they should be preserved

with rust preventative oil.

WD-40 has some fine uses, but the spray cans are for tourists. WD-40 is available by the gallonand can be used with a small hand-pump sprayer much more efficiently than a spray can.

The finest rust preventive oil I have ever found is NAPA brand Chain and Cable Lube (partnumber "Mac's 1370"). NAPA is a national chain of auto parts stores, this particular product isunique to NAPA; other "chain and cable lubes" do not come close in quality, some being simplya sticky, long polymer goo.

The discovery of the ability of NAPA Chain and Cable Lube to penetrate into the pores of steel

and prevent rust has been known to loggers for many years. Out here in the rain forests ofsouthwest Oregon, loggers would often find discarded wire rope, particularly chokers. The rainand salt spray created by the Pacific Ocean would render chokers absolutely stiff with rust after asingle year on the ground. These hardy men would clean off the dirt, spray one side with NAPAChain and Cable Lube, let the foam dissolve into a thin oil and penetrate the cable, then afterawhile turn the cable over and spray the other side. Sometimes a second coat was needed, butoften by the end of the day the choker was limp and supple as new.

Use NAPA Chain and Cable Lube on all bare metal to prevent rust: especially warranted forsaws, blades, or any metal which can rust, and you will have preserved your irreplaceable tools.Each spray can will cover a multitude of metal, while extra cans held in reserve should see you

in good stead for years.

SHARPENING STONES

Sharpening stones come in many variations, shapes, grades and compositions, making it is hardto describe all of them. I have Arkansas stones, "mud" stones, "Carborundum" stones of siliconcarbide, aluminum oxide stones, etc., in different sizes and shapes. Crystrolon and India stonesare electric furnace abrasives. Arkansas stones are made of natural novaculite rock in ultra fine


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grit. "Queer Creek" mud stones are made from a high silicone content sandstone. All have apurpose, so special attention must be taken when considering the ultimate use of the stone.

In years past, when most knife and edged tools had a hardness of 48 to 52 on the Rockwell "C"scale, standard Carborundum stones worked well, and still do for mild steels. Since the advent of

440 C, 154CM, and other hard, tough steels in the early 70's, with a hardness of 58 to 64 R. "C",harder stones such as aluminum oxide, give better use.

Arkansas stones are generally used as hones. Once an edge has already been sharpened on analuminum oxide stone, it can be honed or buffed with an Arkansas stone, but that is an extra stepthat need not be performed. Arkansas stones made their reputation back in the days when theonly alternative was rough carborundum stones. Arkansas stones are expensive and relativelyfragile, so with the finer grades of aluminum oxide stones now available, they are no longer theonly stone upon which to depend.

My particular choice as the best all around sharpening stone is a 2 inch by 8 inch aluminum

oxide combination stone, with course and fine grade compositions on each side. This size is largeenough for virtually any use. I keep a spare stone marked just for use with hand plane blades.

All sharpening stones should be lubricated while in use, so the pores can float off and not clogthe pores of the stone. Special honing oil is available, but kerosene works very well as alubricant. In an emergency, even water may be used as a lubricant. If a stone cuts too rapidly, itcan be tempered by soaking it in a pan of hot petroleum jelly, filling the pores of the stone with athick lubricant. If the pores have been filled due to improper lubrication, clean your stone bysoaking it in kerosene, then wash off the surface with a brush soaked in kerosene. This techniquecan even be used to reclaim almost worthless old stones that most people would consider uselessor have already discarded!

GRINDINGWHEELS

Hand cranked grinding wheels are extremely handy for a wide variety of uses, and I wouldnt bewithout one. They can be used to sharpen drill bits, put an edge on shovels, grind nicks out ofhatchet blades, etc. I use a medium grit aluminum oxide wheel on my grinder, and can replace iteasily with a fine grit wheel when necessary. Foot pedal grinding wheels are very rare, butuseful.

Back when sharp tools meant having the winter crops in - a matter

of life or death - a pedal powered sandstone grinder was a realluxury item. Pedal power enabled the operator to use two hands tohold the tool being sharpened, making the task quicker and easier.Water is dripped on the stone for lubrication from a containerattached to the upright rod. The photo at left shows my centuryold sandstone grinder.


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Many old sandstone grinders are found with a groove in themiddle. That was caused by a water container shaped like a funnel,pouring water only in the center of the wheel. I use a tripleaquarium air valve fastened to a sturdy plastic gallon container, as

shown at left (tilted back to photograph better). The sediment inthe plastic container shows the results of decades of use, and thesandstone wheel is perfectly flat. It works! The valves allowinfinite control of the quantity of water dropped on the sandstone.

FILES

You are going to need metal cutting files. This is a given. Small triangular files are used tosharpen hand saw teeth. Mill bastard files (6" and 8") are used to sharpen cross cut saw teeth,axes, shovels, hoes, etc. When sharpening saws, the correct offset for the teeth must be

maintained. A plier type tool works well on hand saws, but with the larger teeth of cross cutsaws, tapping with a hammer, then checking against a gauge works best.

Files are made from extremely hard carbon steel always susceptible to rust. Files need to be usedwith care. When using a file, stroke away from you, lift the file, then bring the file back foranother stroke. DO NOT drag the file back over the steel, as that only serves to dull the teeth andclogging them with debris.

Protect files in storage from rust with a good rust preventive oil. Before use, and before storage,clean files with a wire brush and kerosene. Treated with respect, files will last for decades!

CARE OF TOOLS

Treat each tool as if it were the last one you will ever own. It may come down to that! Storage ina dry, well ventilated area is mandatory. Obviously, all dirt, grass, etc, should be removed with ascraper or wire brush, even washing with soap and water if necessary, then thoroughly dried andoiled before storing away for a future use.

Wooden tool handles should be scraped smooth with a piece of plate glass, or sanded, thenstained and coated with linseed oil. It can easily take 3 days for linseed oil to soak in and "dry,"and several coats will be needed; select an area in which to hang the tools while they are drying.I use Old English walnut stain and furniture polish as the first coat, then successive coats of

linseed oil. I am pleased to say my tool handles look like finely finished gunstocks. A smooth,well finished tool handle will not cause blisters or slivers on your hands during hard use!

There are of course many different ways to store tools and equipment, this is your decision. Onefellow I know grew up on a farm during the Great Depression, in North Dakota. In the fall, thejob for the boys was to wash off all the disks, plows, harrows, etc, clean and dry themthoroughly, then take them into a barn or shed for winter storage. There they were elevated andplaced on blocks, any bearings lubricated, then the entire implement coated with linseed oil. In


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the spring, those tools were in perfect operating condition, ready for use. Tools in use all thetime, such as shovels, received a different treatment. They would fill a 5 gallon bucket with sand,saturate the sand with used engine oil, then place it in a covered location. After a shovel wasused, it was washed off and the blade stuck into the oily sand. The next time the tool was used, itwas clean, sharp, and rust free.

It doesnt matter which technique of tool preservation you use as long as its effective. The mainobjective is to protect and preserve your tools so they will be there to serve you far into thefuture.

http://www.endtimesreport.com/PLAYING_WITH_TEMPERATURES.html

PLAYING WITH TEMPERATURES

Temperature - heat and cold - changes the actual physical properties of things, and is easy to use

to help us make or repair things, or even make our own tools.

A very useful railroad spike!

Making steel tools for various specific purposes has long been done by the person who wantsand needs the tool. Again, using temperatures properly can make a hard job much easier. Leafspring or file steel has incredible quality, and can be worked rather easily if first softened by aprocess called annealing. Place the steel to be annealed into a fireplace or wood stove, heat it to

a cherry red, then let it cool naturally, and it will be annealed.

The annealed steel can then be cut, drilled, and shaped as desired. While still soft it is thensanded and filed to very near the final finish, including buffing if desired, then heated again to acherry red and then immediately quenched completely in oil, a process called tempering. The oil-bath tempering restores a spring-steel quality of temper. Then the oil scale is removed, finalbuffing done, the finish edge applied (as in a knife), and the tool is ready for use. Cold waterquenching makes steel harder, but brittle.

The size of the tool desired is used as a gauge for what size steel to use to make it. Wood raspsmake fine knives or scrapers, needing only to be swaged into shape when annealed. Swaging is

cold-forming of steel with a hammer and anvil. The combination of annealing, swaging, andtempering can be used to fix bent leaf springs used in many applications.

Let us assume you have a collapsed "V" shaped spring in one of your tools. First the spring isannealed, then it is gently swaged to its original shape, then tempered, and it is almost as good asnew. Pioneer gunsmiths restored leaf springs over campfires in the wilderness.


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Heating steel makes it expand slightly, while rapid cooling makes it shrink, or contract,slightly. Using those principles the pioneers could put a steel rim onto a wooden wagon tire inthe middle of nowhere. The rim was formed to be slightly smaller in diameter than the wheel,then heated in a campfire to a red color, quickly placed around the wooden rim, then shrunk to atight fit by spl

10 essential non electric tools end times

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