005 capitulo 5 traslados de pinza 2
TRANSCRIPT
5 Designingwith Darts
(Tuck-Darts, Pleats,Flares, and Gathers)
chapter
98
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
TUCK-DART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
PLEAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
FLARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
GATHERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101Slash-Spread Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101Pivotal-Transfer Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQUIVALENTS . . . . . . . . .103Waist Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103Dart Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104Tuck-Dart Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Pleat Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105Shoulder Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Center Front Bust Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . .108Graduated Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Radiating Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
PARALLEL DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110Parallel French Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110Parallel Darts at Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Parallel Darts—Cape Effect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112Parallel Dart Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
ASYMMETRIC DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114Asymmetric Radiating Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114Asymmetric Curved Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116Asymmetric Dart Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
INTERSECTING DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Intersecting Dart to Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118Intersecting Dart with Gathers . . . . . . . . . . . . .119Intersecting Dart Design Variations . . . . . . . . .120
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 99
INTRODUCTIONThe dart is one of the most flexible and creativeparts of the pattern. The space (excess) between thedart legs can be used in a variety of creative ways,limited only by the imagination of the designer.Dart excess used as design is referred to as dart equiv-alent. Dart equivalents are illustrated as tuck-darts,pleats, flares, and gathers. Dart equivalents replacethe dart as control and will always be directed tothe pivotal point of a pattern (such as bust point).The difference between a dart and a dart equivalentis the manner in which each is marked (and
subsequently stitched). Darts are stitched end to end,tuck-darts are partially stitched, pleats are folded,stitched across fold, and fullness is spread and gath-ered along the stitchline or flare when not stitched.
Gathers are illustrated separately using theslash-spread and pivotal-transfer techniques. Ad-vanced design using darts and dart equivalents fol-lows. A sample of each dart equivalent should be cutin fabric. It is important to view the different effectscreated by varying the dart.
100 Chapter 5
FRONT
Notch for pleat
Figure 2
Stitc
h
Fold
lin
e
Figure 1b
PLEATFigure 2• A pleat is an unstitched, folded dart held se-
curely along the joining seamline. It is devel-oped as a dart on the pattern but does notinclude punch hole and circle for dart point.Dart legs are notched. (Broken lines indicate theoriginal dart legs.)
FLAREFigure 3• A flare is an open, unstitched dart. The open dart
space is blended across the bottom. Punch holes,circles, and notches are not needed. (Brokenlines indicate original dart legs.)
• Flare should be added to the side seam; seepage 143, Figures 3 and 4 for another version.
Figure 1b• The underside of the dart illustrates the stitched
area. Note that stitching is 1/2 inch beyond thepunch holes.
FRONT
Center
1/8 "
Figure 1a
TUCK-DARTFigure 1a• A tuck-dart is a partially stitched, inverted dart
marked by a punch hole and circle along the cen-terfold and 1/8 inch inside the stitchline, 1/2 inchbelow the finished length to cover the damage.
FRONT
Blend for flare
Add flare
Figure 3
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 101
GATHERSGathers are illustrated using the slash-spread andpivotal-transfer techniques. Gathers change thelook of the basic garment but do not affect the fit.The slash-spread technique illustrates half of thedart excess used for gathers, and the pivotal-transfertechnique illustrates all of the dart excess transferredfor gathers.
Slash-Spread TechniqueFigure 1 Gathers at Shoulder• Trace the front pattern. Mark mid-shoulder. La-
bel dart legs A and B.
• Draw slash lines 1 inch out from each side of themid-shoulder, ending at bust point (pivotalpoint).
Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.
• Place on pattern paper and bring dart leg Bhalfway to A. Secure.
• Spread slashed sections equally and secure.
• Trace the outline of the pattern.
• Place notch marks 1/2 inch in from shoulder andneck for gather control.
• Draw blending line along the shoulder, touchingcenter sections of the slashed parts.
Figure 3• Mark back shoulder notches same distance in
from shoulder tip and shoulder at neck.
• Add 1/2 inch seams and 1 inch at center back.
• Cut and stitch for a test fit.
Bust point
B
A
Mid-shoulder
1" 1"
Ce
nte
r ba
ck
Cut
Figure 1
B A
Dart point
Ce
nte
r fro
nt
1/2 "
1/2 "Figure 2
BACK
Ce
nte
r ba
ck
1/2 "
1/2 "
Figure 3
Bust point
BA
Ce
nte
r fro
nt
3 2 1
Tracing ends
4 5 6 Trace begins
Figure 1
123
4 5 6
B A
TraceFigure 2
Bust point
B A
3 2 1
4 5 6
TraceFigure 3
FRONT
12
3
B A
#6 (Last move)
Figure 4a
FRONT
#1
#3
Blend
Pivotal-Transfer TechniqueFigure 1• Place the pattern on paper and a pushpin at
bust point.
• Mark mid-shoulder and 1 inch out from eachside of the mark. Label 1, 2, 3 and dart legs A, B.
• Divide waist dart into thirds. Label 4, 5, and 6.
• Trace from A to shoulder mark #1 and crossmark.
Figure 2• Pivot dart leg B, covering space 4.• Trace pattern from shoulder mark 1 to 2. (Bold
line indicates traced section.)
102 Chapter 5
Figure 3• Pivot dart leg B, covering space 5.
• Trace pattern from shoulder mark 2 to 3 andcrossmark.
Figures 4a• Pivot dart leg B, covering space 6 (dart closes).
• Trace pattern from shoulder mark 3 to dart leg B.
Figure 4b• Blend shoulderline.
Figure 4b
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 103
DART CLUSTERS AND DARTEQUIVALENTS
The dart excess may be divided among multiple open-ings and treated as a single design unit. When used asa single design unit, the dart excess may be identifiedas a group of basic or stylized darts, tuck-darts, pleats,or a variation in any combination desired.
The following instructions (Figures 1, 2, and 3)apply to the development of darts, tuck-darts, and
pleat clusters. The slash lines for cluster arrange-ments can vary, being made parallel or radiating.The examples are for practice. The methods forcompleting each cluster differ and will be illustratedby Figure 4 (dart cluster), Figure 5 (tuck-dart cluster),and Figure 6 (pleat cluster).
Waist ClusterPattern Plot and DevelopmentFigure 1• Trace basic bodice.
• Square a guideline out from each dart leg 1 inchbelow bust point.
• Draw parallel slash lines to the guideline 1 inchfrom dart legs. Darts may be tapered to 3/4 inchat waistline for a slimming effect.
• Connect to bust point.
• Cut the pattern from paper.
Tuck-darts Darts Pleats
1 "
1 "
Sla
sh li
ne
Slash
line
FRONT
Bust point1"
Figure 1
104 Chapter 5
""
FRONT
Figure 2Sid
e se
am C
en
ter f
ron
t
Dart points
Trim
Inside fold
Stitch line
Figure 3
FRONT
Cu
t o
n fo
ldFigure 4
Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.
• Place on paper and spread equally, and secure.
• Draw dart legs as follows:
• Middle dart—center dart point 1/2 inch be-low the guideline and draw legs to waist.Measure the length of the dart leg.
• Outer dart legs—mark dart points 1/2 inchbelow on one side of the slash line. Draw dartlegs equal to length of the middle dart leg.
• Add seams, and allow excess of paper belowwaistline for shaping darts. Cut from paper.
Figure 3• Fold dart excess toward center front (allow pat-
tern to cup). Waistline will be uneven.
• Draw blending line across waistline. Draw seamallowance, 1/2-inch line parallel with waistline.
• Cut excess while darts are folded, or trace (withtracing wheel) across seam allowance line.
• Unfold and pencil in perforated line.
• To complete the patterns, cut three copies forpractice. Choose the dart equivalent desired(darts, tuck-darts, or pleats; see Figure 4, 5, or 6).
Dart ClusterFigure 4• Center punch hole 1/2 inch from dart point and
circle.
• Notch pattern, including dart legs.
• Draw grainline. Cut basic back for test fit.
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 105
Tuck-Dart ClusterFigure 5• Mark the center fold of each dart for punch holes
one-half the distance to dart point (varies).
• Mark punch holes in center and 1/8 inch fromdart legs.
• Circle all punch marks.
• Notch seam allowance and dart legs.
• Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete fortest fit.
• For stitching guide, see instruction given onpage 100, Figure 1b (unstitched dart indicated by broken lines).
Pleat ClusterFigure 6• Notch each dart leg (broken lines indicate origi-
nal dart legs).*
• Draw grainline. Cut basic back and complete fortest fit.
Punch holes—not required for gathers.
FRONT
Cu
to
nfo
ld
1/8 " moreat eachside of thetuck.
Figure 5FRONT
Cu
t o
n fo
ld
Figure 6
Notes:
106 Chapter 5
BA
1 "1 "
Slash
Slash
Slash
11/2 "
Mid-shoulder
Figure 1
Tuck-dart Pleats
Darts
B C
Close
Figure 2
Shoulder Cluster
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace basic bodice.
• Mark mid-shoulder and label dart legs A and B.
• Draw a slash line from mid-shoulder to bust point.
• Square a guideline 1 1/2 inches above bust point.
• Draw parallel line 1 inch out from each side toguideline. Connect to bust point.
Figure 2• Cut slash line to, not through, bust point.
• Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
• Place on paper and spread slash lines equally.
• Draw dart legs to guideline.
• To complete pattern for each design, see Figures 3,4, 5, and 6, pages 104 and 105.
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 107
Center Front Bust Cluster
Pattern Plot and DevelopmentFigure 1• Trace basic bodice pattern. Label dart legs A and
B. Square a line from center front to bust point.
• Draw a guideline 1 inch from bust point, parallelwith center front.
• Draw line 3/4 inch out from each side of line toguideline.
• Connect to bust point as shown.
• Cut pattern from paper.
Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.
• Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
• Place on paper and spread equally. Secure.
• Draw dart legs to guideline as shown.
• To complete pattern for each design, see Figures 3,4, 5, and 6, pages 104 and 105.
Tuck-dartsDartsPleats
B
Guideline
A
C.F. bust
FRONT
3/4 "
3/4 "
Figure 1
B A
Close
FRONT
Figure 2
108 Chapter 5
B
Gui
delin
e
A
C
1 "
51234
Figure 1
GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS
Graduated darts are darts of varying length within agroup. Radiating darts spread out (radiate) from a fo-cal point in a balanced arrangement and may be ofthe same or a graduated length. To prevent bulgingat the tip of the darts that are farthest from the bustmound, the dart intake is generally 1/2 inch, withall remaining excess being absorbed by the dart clos-est to the bust mound. Use back pattern to completethe design.
Graduated DartsDesign AnalysisDesign features graduating darts along the shoulder-line. The longest dart ends at bust level.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace bodice front and label darts legs A and B.
• Square a line from the center front to the sideseam, passing through the dart point.
• Draw a slash line from center front to 1 inch pastthe dart point. Label C.
• Draw four slash lines equally spaced from shoul-der to guideline.
• Cut from paper.
Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut from neck to C and from C to dart point.
• Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
• Cut slash lines to, not through, guideline.
• Place on paper, spread, and tape. (Corner at neckwill not meet, and part of guideline overlaps.)
• Trace the pattern and blend neckline.
• Center dart point 1 inch up from slash lines.
• Draw dart legs, fold and blend shoulder.
• Complete 1/2 inch seams. Trim fullest dart legs towithin 1/2 inch of seamline. Add 1/4 inch at neck.
5
C
B A
43 2 1
Blend
Close
1/2 "1/2 " 1/2 "
Cu
to
nfo
ldFigure 2
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 109
Radiating Darts Design AnalysisDesign features radiating darts from neck, with thelongest dart placed at mid-neckline and directed tobust point.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace basic pattern. Label dart legs A and B.
• Draw a slash line from mid-neck to bust point.Label C.
• Locate mid-point on line C. Square out 1 inch oneach side. Label D and E.
• Measure out 1/2 inch on each side of C. Markand draw slash lines to D and E and to bust point.
Bust point
BA
Sla
shSl
ash
Sla
sh
ED
C
1 "1 "
1/2 "
1/2 "
Figure 1
Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.
• Place on paper. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
• Spread lines D and E 1/2 inch at neck. Remainingexcess is taken up by middle dart.
• Locate dart points between guidelines as shown,with middle dart point 1 inch from bust point.
• Draw dart legs to dart point. Fold darts and blendneckline.
• Trace basic back, add seams, and complete pat-tern for test fit.
Cu
to
nfo
ld
E D
AB
Close
1/2 "1/2 "
Figure 2
110 Chapter 5
Dart points
Slash
Slash
Ce
nte
r fro
nt
FRONT
1 "
Figure 1
PARALLEL DARTSParallel darts can be created by using the dart points,or the bust point and dart point of a two-darted pat-tern. Space between the parallel darts can be in-creased by moving the dart point of the side dartfarther from bust point.
Parallel French Darts
Design Analysis: Design 1Design 1 features curved and parallel French darts.Transfer waist and side dart to the curved dart lines.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace two-dart front bodice pattern.
• Draw curved parallel slash lines from dart pointsto side as shown.
• Cut pattern from paper.
FRONT
Cu
t o
n fo
ld
Slit
Close
Close
Figure 2
Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, dart points.
• Close side and waist darts. Tape.
• Trace pattern on fold.
• Add seams and grainline.
Method for Finishing Darts• Add 1/2-inch seam allowance to darts.
• Where dart seams come together, slash a line1/16 inch wide to within 1/2 inch of dart point,following curve of dart. Slash curve.
• Use the basic back pattern to complete the patternfor a test fit.
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 111
Parallel Darts at Neck
Design Analysis: Design 2Parallel curved dart legs begin at corner of the neck.Neckline depth is 3 inches.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace two-dart front bodice.
• Draw curved slash line from dart point of waistdart to corner of neck. Crossmark at bust.
• Draw a parallel slash line from side dart point toshoulderline and draw curve neck.
Figure 2• Cut from paper and trim neckline facing.
• Trace on folded paper using measurements given.
• Add seams.
Figure 3• Cut to dart points and close darts. Trace.
• Draw new dart points 1 inch from original dart.
• Add seams and draw grainline. Add seams.
• A jog seam at the dart and neckline intersectionrequires a 1/4-inch seam allowance for facing.
FRONT
Sla
sh
Sla
sh
3 "
Mark
TrimFigure 1
FRONT
Fold
Facing: Trace on folded paper
2 "
2 "
1/4 "
1/2 "
Figure 2
1 " 1 "
Cu
t o
n fo
ldJog seam
Close
Close
1/4 "
1/4 "
1/2 "
Figure 3
112 Chapter 5
11/4 "
Sla
sh
Sla
sh
FRONT
Bustpoint
Slash
11/2 "
Trim
Figure 1
Parallel Darts—Cape Effect Design Analysis: Design 3Stylized darts extend beyond shoulder tip, creatinga cape effect. The neckline parallels the curved lines.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace pattern, extend shoulder 1 1/4 inches.
• Draw vertical slash lines up from dart points, par-allel with the center front. Mark bust point.
• Draw a curved line from extended shoulder untilit intersects with vertical line from the side dart.
• Draw a parallel curve line to next vertical line.
• Draw a parallel curve line for the neckline.
• Cut from paper and trim neckline.
Figure 2 Facing• Trace on folded paper as shown. Add seams.
Figure 3 New Pattern Shape
• Cut slash lines to dart points and bust point.
• Close darts and tape.
• Place on paper and trace.
• Mark dart points l inch up.
• Draw dart legs and mark punch holes.
• Add grainline and seams as shown.
FRONT
Facing: Trace on folded paper
Fold
2 "
2 "
Figure 2
1"1"
Jog seam
Punch holes arerequired when thedistance betweendart point and seam are too far apart.
1/4"
1/4 "
1/4 "C
ut
on
fold
Close
Close
Figure 3
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 113
Parallel Dart Design VariationsThe parallel dart designs are practice problems. The generated patterns are correct if they result in exact repli-cas of the designs. Solutions for Designs 1 and 3 can be seen on the DVD.
Design 1 Design 2
Design 3 Design 4
114 Chapter 5
ASYMMETRIC DARTSAsymmetric darts cross center front of the garment. Pattern shapes will change radically from that of the work-ing pattern. Asymmetric darts require special pattern handling and identification, as do all designs that differfrom side to side. Compare pattern shapes with each design. Cut basic back to complete the design for test fit.
• A full front pattern is required.
• Right-side-up instructions are necessary.
• The existing dart of the working pattern may interfere with the placement of a stylized dart. If so, the dartshould be transferred temporarily to another location (such as mid-armhole) before the pattern is plotted.Seam allowance is illustrated for each pattern because of the dart’s unique shape and location (1/4 inch atneck; 1/2 inch at shoulder, armhole, and waist; and 1/2 to 3/4 inch at side seams).
Design Analysis: Design 1Both darts end at the waist on the same side, formingtuck-darts. Scoop neckline completes the design. Transferwaist darts to mid-armhole location, where they will notinterfere with plotting of the stylized darts. Beginnersmay want to use a basic neckline (bow not illustrated).
Asymmetric Radiating Darts
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 115
Bust point Bust point
Sla
sh
Slash
2 " 2 "
C.F.
Figure 1Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist dart to
mid-armhole dart location. Draw neckline.
• Cut from paper. Unfold.
• Draw slash lines from bust points to side waist.
• Crossmark 3 inches up from the corners of eachslash line to indicate the length of the tuck-dart.
Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust point.
• Close dart legs. Tape and trace.
• Label right-side-up. Draw grainline and addseams.
Tuck-Darts• Draw seams across open dart 1/2 inch below each
crossmark.
• Cut from paper. (Broken lines show the discardedpart of dart legs.)
Figure 2
Dart excess
BACK
1/4 "
2 "
Trim
Figure 3
Figure 3• To complete the pattern, trace
back, marking 2 inches in fromshoulder tip, and 1/4 inch down,ending at center back.
• Remaining dart excess is trimmedat shoulder.
• Complete pattern for test fit.
Close CloseFRONT
Right-Side-Up
Tuck
-dart
Tuck
-dart
1/2 "
1/2 "
1/2 "
116 Chapter 5
Bust point Bust point
Slash
Slash
C.F.
Parallel
Figure 1
Asymmetric Curved Darts
Design Analysis: Design 2Design 2 features curved darts that cross over centerfront. One dart ends at the armhole and the other atthe waist. Before plotting the style darts, transferwaist darts to mid-armhole.
Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace front pattern on fold, transferring waist
darts to mid-armhole location. Cut and unfold.
• Draw a curved line from bust point to waist.
• Draw a parallel line from bust point to armhole.
Figure 2 New Pattern Shape• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust points.
• Close dart legs. Tape and trace pattern.
• Center dart points 1 inch from bust point. Drawdart legs.
• Label right-side-up. Add seams and grainline.
• Complete pattern for test fit.FRONT
Right-Side-UpClose
Close
Slit
Slit
Figure 2
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 117
Asymmetric Dart VariationsDesigns are practice problems. Designs 3 and 4 are given for advanced students. The generated patterns arecorrect if they result in exact representations of the designs. Designs 3 and 4 can be seen on the DVD.
Design 1
Design 2
Design 3
Design 4
118 Chapter 5
INTERSECTING DARTSIntersecting darts resemble asymmetric darts anddart equivalents. The darts cross center front and in-tersect with each other. To complete the design, usebasic back patern. See Chapter 16 for guidance in de-veloping facings.
Intersecting Dart to Waist
Design Analysis: Design 1Darts are treated as pleats in the “V” section. Theneckline is cut away.
Pattern Plot and DevelopmentFigure 1• Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist dart to
mid-armhole.
• Draw neckline 1 inch in from neck at shoulder.Blend to center front neck.
• Cut from paper. Unfold.
• Draw slash lines intersecting at center front.
Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, bust points.
• Close dart legs. Tape.
• Pleats: Fold darts.
• Add seams and notches for pleats.
• Draw grain and label right-side-up.
• Cut from paper.
Figure 3• Trace back neckline, marking 1 inch from shoul-
der at neck and 1/2 inch at center back neck.
FRONT
1 " 1 "
2 "C
en
ter f
ron
t
Slash
Slash
Trim
Figure 1
BACK
1/2 "1 "Trim
Figure 3
Right-side-up
Trim
Figure 2
DESIGNING WITH DARTS 119
Intersecting Dart with Gathers
Design Analysis: Design 2Design 2 features one stylized dart crossing the cen-ter front to the opposite side, ending above the sidewaist. Gathers (dart equivalents) form under the bust.
Figure 1• Trace pattern on fold, transferring waist darts to
mid-armhole.
• Cut and unfold.
• Draw styleline from dart point to side waist, pass-ing 3 inches below bust.
• Draw slash lines for gathers.
• Mark notches 1/2 inch out from first and lastslash line for notches as gather control.
FRONT
Slash
Slash
2 1/2 "
1/2 "1/2 "
C.F.
Figure 1
Figure 2• Cut slash lines to, not through, dart points.
• Close darts. Tape.
• Place on paper and spread section equally forgathers and trace.
• Center dart point 1/2 inch from bust pointand draw dart legs.
• Add seams; blend gathered area.
• Draw grainline, mark notches, and labelright-side-up.
• Cut from paper.
• Trace basic back and complete pattern fortest fit.
CloseClose
FRONTRight-Side-Up
Slit
Figure 2
120 Chapter 5
Intersecting Dart Design VariationsThe intersecting dart designs are practice problems. The generated patterns are correct if they result in exactrepresentations of the designs. For designs 5 and 6, see solution on the DVD.
Design 1 Design 2 Design 3 Design 4
Design 5 Design 6 Design 7