THE JAVA RHINO TREK: FINDING THE WORLDS RAREST MAMMALWhat happens when 3 crazy friends, who happen to love the environment get bored? They go fairly unprepared into the jungles of Indonesia to try and safe the Java Rhino of course!

So it happened that one evening, googling (is that now finally a word??) through all the sad stories of mammals on the brink of extinction, I again stumbled upon an old favourite: the Java Rhino.

And within one month the three of us were on a plane, armed with more cameras than the paparazzi at Anne Hathaway’s house. All in the name of conservation and having tracked down the local responsible authorities (ROAM – Rhino Operations Action Management), to assist them going forward and us getting some articles written on this magnificent prehistoric animal – that the World cannot and should not loose.

So we went J’burg -> Doha - Jakarta -> Carito. This last leg was a three hour drive that we did with the son of the devil, who came to earth to be our local driver and put the fear of God in us for three straight hours, while using all 27 his English (Or Engelish, that he claimed to have had the better of) words to greet and re-greet us while he killed off dozen of innocent pedestrians along the most populated roads in the Universe (okay, I have not yet been to India……). We nicked named him ‘Jannie” after the aeroplane joke (another day…).

Having arrived at Carito, we calmed our souls with cold beer and a good nights’ rest, while praying for forgiveness for all our previous sins from age 5.

The next morning, somewhat refreshed and after a wonderful breakfast and having met our hero tour organiser Roman, we were taken by speedboat on a 3 hour trip to the edge of the forest where we said goodbye to civilization, fried chips and cell phones.

Myself, Bernard and Frik

And this was what the end of civilization looked like (our final destination Ujung Kolung National Park, Indonesia – only home to the Javan rhino):

This is where we started realising that we were in for a ‘trip’. A real bush crawl, 70km of walking / crawling through mud, dense forest, high humidity, etc. over the first four days of our eight day trekking journey before reverting to canoeing), looking for dung, making some more (please understand – there were many snakes, spiders and other death inspiring moments to share) and all that jazz.

The Java Rhino has captivated me for years and I at first thought that they are doomed to extinction, especially since a discovered population of some twelve was decimated within ten years (last one killed two years ago) in Vietnam and it was my thoughts that the remaining 50-60 in Java, Indonesia was equally doomed. This was simply a mathematical fact for me: 50-60 animals living adjacent to the second most densely populated (after Malta) island on

earth (Java), with an estimated 135 million people competing for living space, space for crops, water and other resources.

What we however and to our great surprise found, were an eager, devoted people, who will do anything to protect the last remaining rhinos. The good news is there have been no known deaths in the last five years due to poaching in this park and only one we know of there in the last twenty years. The surrounding communities (we met some of them) are all eager protectors of this beloved legacy of theirs. The Rhino enjoys almost icon status among the great people of Western Java.

We found sufficient evidence of the existence of the Java Rhino in the Park that assured us that they were at least around in some numbers. Unfortunately it seems that there were many signs of other problems: some pollution, decline in other species in the Park that may be crucial in its interaction with the ecosystem the Rhinos live in and continues threat of neighbouring villages in terms of spreading diseases from their livestock (no longer encroaching on park land luckily).

Dry mud pool with signs of Rhino

First day of trekking: Trekking from Laban to Karang Ranjang an hour or so before entering the ranger camp. Rustic (the same ‘Rustic’ as claimed by the Parks Board of Northern Sudan) with some surprises going for a shower or bath and the sea at close proximity.

We settled in had a quick lunch before setting out on a circular hike to explore the area surrounding this ranger camp. We found some mud puddles used by rhinos, but was some time when last visited, rhino spoor and Banteng droppings. Birds are not visible through canopy, but there was a familiar ”beat” of this orchestra in the forest.

The forest canopy of giants has a noticeable timeline drawn by the earlier outburst from neighboring volcano Krakatoa in 1883, most of the trees are approximately hundred and twenty years old.

Some of the animals we encountered in and around the camp were a monitor lizard on the beach early the next day, looking for any tit-bits arriving from current unto shore.  Took flight when it saw Bernard approached one morning early (I would as well – you should see him when he wakes up)…….

 

A Mouse deer with an height of approximately twenty centimetres was seen snooping around the campsite at night and also a Javan civet close to camp.

2nd Day of trekking led us to our only physical encounter with the Java Rhino, which was awe-inspiring. Although we could not see them through the thick bush, the sounds of them trying to threaten us off by making heavy, dinosaur-like grumping noises and hoofing heavily on the ground before running (luckily) in a different direction away from us, was something to remember forever.

Actually Frik and I played in a movie here: Once the noise started, we calmly took our cameras out (for ‘Take 1’ you see) to get a few shots in of the Rhinos (who have ten times the testosterone levels of a Black Rhino, in other words Bruce Willis or Kallie Knoetze in their younger days).

When we looked back at our guides to ask where to take the best pictures from, half were in trees, some were making real awful sounds that I last heard after Hennie kissed Annemie in 2nd grade and one stood ten metres behind me with his eyes closed, waiting on heaven. I distinctly remember his lips moving. So we calmly (I lie) stepped behind a bush to allow him undisturbed entrance once the Rhinos stormed.

Rhino bathtub - horn cleaning kit

Third day of tracking took us further along the coast towards Cibunar, a forest camp close to a very cliffy seafront and grassy terraces with refreshing ravine flowing on the side. We did a circular route after settling in, we were able to see many signs of rhino activity also watched a bush pig grazing on one of the terraces. It reminded me of some girl in school.

The footpath next to the sea took us past a deserted ranger house and we were told plans for the following year to renovate are on the cards. Bathing in the river also revealed the home to some fish, snails and shrimps. It also revealed some very, very disturbing facts about Frik…..

Early evening we had the fortune of seeing some Flying foxes, the geckos kept the rest of the night alive with their calls. Our tour guide sprinkled some salt round camp, as we heard later will keep the snakes away, anyway it worked. During the night a snarling or grunting noise of some sorts was heard (if my wife was there, I know who she would have blamed) – next morning not twenty meters away the bush pig’s mud bath was discovered, obviously enjoyed that evening bath (and for the last time Frik, if you are reading this, it was not me!).

One of the most memorable sounds tracking through the forest was the noise made by Rhinoceros horn bill’s wings  as they dominated all forest sounds. Getting a picture of any of these birds were another story ! The canopy provided the perfect concealment for all birds.

Fourth day tracking, we went cutting across inland at the foot of the Gunung Payung mountain on our way to Ciujungkulon and then camp Karang Copong on Peucang Island. This was a more challenging walk although shorter route than the previous days. It was an ascent/ descent journey and we could also sense our guides / rangers were also getting tired (and I was willing to watch that boring ‘Sex and the City’ if I could just get some rest….).

We exited out or the forest with a lookout post and some Banteng (cattle like-buffalo) and Crab-eating macaw monkeys as welcoming party, boat already waiting at the jetty. The short boat-ride took us to Peucang Island. Camp Karang Copong looks well geared for holiday

season, six large cabins build in a U-shape with ablution block behind us, staff buildings and small museum depicting some of the animals and history of the area.

Ateng at back of boat (thumbs up) us and ROAM team

We went fishing the afternoon, to spoil ourselves, with the boat and decided to share our breakfast ideas of oil, bacon and lots of fatty eggs with one another while bouncing around a boat. Finally Frik found my weak spot and I discovered that stories about mucus (I am not allowed to write ‘snot’ here) really, really gets to him. So ready to share our breakfast with the fish, we decided to head back to the island for some rest.

Fortunately for us this horn-bill posed for a quick photo on the Island Karang Copong walking towards the “hole in the Rock” . Some Javan gibbon were also seen climbing through the canopy, just too quick to be able to capture on film.

Many bees were attracted to the lights of our cottage (I think attracted to me actually, as they took a good 3d spot in my younger years on a list of ‘things and people attracted to Danie’ after dogs which bit me and Jehovas witnesses who preached to me), but we were tired enough to just get into bed after supper and prepare ourselves for the next Island – Handeuleum.

Fifth day tracking, took us to an island with no sand, only rocks and dead coral along the shores. After breakfast we set by boat for an hour and a half arriving with many islands in view. We had a quick swim shortly after arriving and settling in. The accommodation was a double story building, clean and well looked after. We stayed in the upper rooms overlooking the sea from our balcony and had the pleasure of having two swallows as room-mates, who crapped on my sleeping bag (another sign of nature versus Danie).

A mangrove nursery was on the one end of the “resort” and is part of the rehabilitating functions the Park performs.

After a very pleasant lunch and quick siesta we went for an amazing boat trip – up the Cigenter river. Some of the pictures could have been out of an “Indiana Jones” movies…

Very serene, tranquil scenery with only the sound of the paddles and water.Many birds alongside the river were spotted – Javan Kingfisher made a few passing turns, the smaller blue kingfisher and a herring or two watched as we slowly made our way. Unfortunately we saw no rhino on these excursions.

This was fortunately at high tide, we made the error the next morning to do similar trip at low tide – not advisable! Two Reticulated pythons were seen lazying on palm branches over the river, not at all threatened by the passing boat. We saw river entry signs of the very dangerous Estuary crocodiles (did see some a few nights before) and decided not to swim.

Tall trees were hovering over us from both sides of the river with Crab-eating macaue monkeys moving between these giants.

The evening we were craving for a braai. So we asked the ranger in charge for permission and were giving instructions to our chefs how to prepare “braai-broodjies”. Apart from the

descriptive Afrikaans we shared with them, hopefully this meal was something they also enjoyed. The cook insisted in fluent whatever that Bernard did not know how to braai and I agreed with him.

Sixth day trekking

The next mornings trip was not as eventful, apart from the seeing some Mudskipper, Archerfish and the colorful crabs along the sides of the river.

We at least had the opportunity of doing a circular route in the forest walking on some of the ROAM-teams trails. They were entering their rainy season shortly, we were very fortunate not to have the experience of trekking too much in the rain! The trails were very narrow and underbrush required trimming as we walked, some of the crossings were only two branches assisting.

We were not the shortest of tourist walking with them and some of the times we had to poke a joke or two at ourselves, going all fours – hands and knees to proceed ! Myself and Frik are rugby lock sized and I think a hundred years ago a lot of native people would have made some godlike-offerings to us. (Probably some birds, food and a few children I thought).

With some scratches and bruises we fortunately made our way back to our boat at the entrance to the river.

We still had to travel back to Carita that afternoon and drop off our friends at Tamanjaya along the way. So for a quick lunch after our second river expedition we packed everything for our last boat trip.

As Bernard also mentioned to our tour-guide Ateng and field ranger Apud, we came as tourist and are now departing as friends. Seeing where they work, sharing some of the same footpaths they have to travel – just being involved, this is the privilege we had.

Thanks to Roman Bhuiyan, organizing this journey, friends that made this unforgettable and people passionately preserving this last remnant of the Java Rhino’s origin!

Roman’s details are:

Tel. +62 813 86668811

info@krakatau-tour.com

Website details: http://www.krakatau-tour.com/site/adventure-ujung-kulon-tour-tracking-travel-indonesia.html (this is not a standard tour, we deviated from the standard tour to get to more of the Rhino visited areas).

On Facebook he would love to be your friend as ‘Roman Java Rhino’.