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The Role of Topical Moisturizers in Managing Compromised
Skin
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• Natural protective barrier from• physical injury• pathogenic microbes• chemical agents• UV radiation• extreme temperatures
• Helps to restrict fluid and water loss
• Sensory perception: temperature, pressure, touch and pain
• Temperature regulation of the body
Skin Function
1. Irving V: Caring for and protecting the skin of pre-term neonates. J Wound Care 2001, 10:253-6.2. Nikolovski J, Stamatas GN, Kollias N, Wiegand BC: Barrier function and water-holding and transport properties of infant stratum corneum are different from adult and continue to develop through the first year of life. J Invest Dermatol 2008, 128:1728-36.
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Bricks & Mortar
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The Infant Skin Barrier: Can We Preserve, Protect, and Enhance the Barrier? Lorena S. Telofski, A. PeterMorello III, M. CatherineMack Correa, and Georgios N. Stamatas; Dermatology Research and Practice Volume 2012, Article ID 198789, 18 pages doi:10.1155/2012/198789
Infant vs Adult Skin
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L.S Telosfski et al. Dermatology Research and Practice, vol 2012 G.N. Stamatas et al. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 17-24
↗ permeability
↗ water retention
SKIN PARAMETER ADULT INFANT
Surface Microrelief lines Less dense More dense
Cell size Corneocytes (SC) Larger Smaller
Granular Keratinocytes Larger Less dense
SmallerMore densely packed
Thickness Stratum corneum Thicker~ 10µm
Thinner~ 7µm
Epidermis Thicker Thinner (-20% vs adult)
Dermal structure
Dermal papillae (density, size, morphology)
Less homogenous More homogenous
Distinction between papillary and reticular dermis
Present Absent
Structure
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↘ UV protection
NMF: Natural moisturizing factor
↗ skin hydration
↗ dryness
↘ hydro-lipid film protection
SKIN PARAMETER ADULT INFANT
Water content Stratum corneum Lower Higher (in older infants)
Drier at birth
Inter-personal variability Lower Higher
NMF Natural moisturizing factor concentration
Higher Lower
Surface lipids Sebum Higher Lower(7-10 month-old
infant)
Collagen Fiber density Higher (young adult)
Lower
Melanin Density Higher Lower
Composition
L.S Telosfski et al. Dermatology Research and Practice, vol 2012 G.N. Stamatas et al. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 17-24
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↗ potential infections
TEWL: Trans-epidermal water loss
↗ water evaporation
SKIN PARAMETER ADULT INFANT
Protective barrier
Skin barrier function Competent Competent – still maturing
TEWL Trans-epidermal water loss Lower Higher
Water handling Rate of water absorption Lower Higher
Rate of water desorption Lower Higher
Cell proliferation
Turnover rate Lower Higher
pH Surface pH Lower More alkaline(newborn only)
Function
L.S Telosfski et al. Dermatology Research and Practice, vol 2012 G.N. Stamatas et al. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 17-24
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Role of skin lipids
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G.N. Stamatas et al. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 17-24
• Babies are born with skin pH close to neutral: 6.6 - 7.5
• Adults have a much more acidic skin with pH values: 4.5 - 6.7
• Acidic skin pH affects several activities:
• Maturation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier
• Control of the desquamation process
• Regulation of bacterial proliferation on the skin
Importance of proper pH
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Epidermal Barrier Dysfunction in Atopic Dermatitis. Michael J. Cork, et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2009) Vol 129
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L.S Telosfski et al. Dermatology Research and Practice, vol 2012 G.N. Stamatas et al. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 17-24
Healthy Barrier Function
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Oats in Skincare
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Attributes of Oats in Skin Care
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ECZEMA (N=33)
SENILE SKIN
WINTER ITCH
SENILE PRURITUS
PH
NORMAL pH RANGE 4.2-5.5
pH LEVEL IMMEDIATELY AFTER TREATMENT WITH COLLOIDAL OATMEAL
pH
LE
VE
L B
EF
OR
E T
RE
AT
ME
NT
Grais M. AMA Arch Derm Syphilol.1953;68(4):402-407.
pH measured on forearm
(N=33)
(N=16)
(N=14)
Buffering Capacity of Colloidal Oatmeal Restores the pH of Damaged Skin to Within the Normal Range
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Avenanthramides
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Vollhardt J, Fielder DA, Redmont MJ. Identification and cosmetic application of powerful anti-irritant constituents of oat grain. XXI IFSCC International Congress 2000, Berlin. Proceedings; 395-402.
Separated oat fractions tested in a skin erythema model/Patients received 1.5 MED of UVB/Products applied 24 hours after irradiation/Clinical erythema evaluation 24 hours after product application
% of redness attenuation per gram afterUV irradiation. Measure 24h after application
Avenanthramides
Flavonoids
Saponins
0 50 100 150 200 250
The avenanthramide fraction is the most effective oat component in reducing UV-induced redness 24 hours after dermal application
Avenanthramides vs other oat fractions
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Avenanthramides: Inhibition of Markers Related to Topical Skin Irritation
IL-8
Rel
ease
(pg/
mL)
from
Ker
atino
cyte
s
150
180
210
240
270
UnstimulatedAvenanthramide (μg/mL)
Stimulated 1 10 100
IL-8=interleukin-8.
Wallo W, et al. Poster presented at: 65th annual meeting of the AAD. February 2-6, 2007; Washington, DC.
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Oat Lipids
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Composition of Oat Lipids• Total lipid content of oats: from 2%–11.8%
dry weight
• Triglycerides
• Phospholipids
• Lecithin
• Glycolipids
• Free fatty acids
– Oleic, Linoleic, Palmitic, Stearic
Zhou M, et al. J American Oil Chem Soc. 1999;76(2):159-169.
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Oat Oil Reduces TEWL Compared to Control Sites
Potter RC et al. US Patent 5620692. April 15, 1997.
TEWL=transepidermal water loss.
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Whole Oat Oil Lipid Class Composition
Southall M, et al. The Dermatologist. September 2012 (suppl):1-4.
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Clinical Evidence Supporting the Use of Oat-Containing Products in Skin Care
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Colloidal Oatmeal Cream vs Rx Barrier Emulsion for Improving Skin Barrier in Moderate-to-Severe Dry Skin
-35
-15
-20
-30
4
-25
9
Days
1 7
Perc
ent M
ean
Redu
ction
inW
ater
Los
s
RegressionPeriod
Colloidal Oatmeal Cream Rx Skin Barrier Emulsion
Nebus J, et al. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64:AB71.
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Effectiveness of a colloidal oat lotion vs vehicle for the relief of dry, itchy skin
A Randomized, Double-Blind Bilateral Controlled Study to Evaluate the Effectiveness of an Oatmeal Containing Lotion vs Vehicle for the Relief of Dry, Itchy Skin, data on file.
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*Colloidal oatmeal with ceramides and dexpanthenol.Wallo W, et al. Poster presented at: 65th annual meeting of the AAD; February 2–6, 2007; Washington DC.
Colloidal Oatmeal Bath* in the Treatment of Dry and Sensitive Skin in Atopic Dermatitis
0
1.2
Before After
Itching
Burning
Gra
ding
Sco
re
0.2
0.6
1.0
0.4
0.8
4-week, investigator-blinded, crossover study (N=25)
50%
67%
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Dermatologist Assessment: EASI Composite Score (ages 12–60 years)
EASI=eczema area and severity index .
*Significant improvement (P<0.001).
Fowler JF, et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2012;11(7):804-807.
Daily Oat-based Skin Care Regimen for Atopic Skin: EASI Composite Score
0
6
2
8
EASI
(Mea
n)
Baseline Week 8Week 2 Week 4
4
*
*
*
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Nebus J, Wallo W, Eichenfeld L, MD; Poster presented at the 34th Annual Meeting of the Society of Pediatric Dermatology. July 2008
Evaluating the Tolerance and Safety of a Colloidal Oat and Ceramide containing Moisturizing Cream and Oatmeal containing Moisturizing Wash in Babies and Children with Atopic Dermatitis
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*Assessment of AVEENO® Eczema Therapy Moisturizing Cream through a multi-centric clinical study on infants, children and adults with Atopic dermatitis. (n=71 patients in total aged 6 months to adult; topical steroid data based on n=19 patients who previously used topical steroids during the washout period).
Assessment of a Colloidal Oatmeal and Ceramide containing Moisturizing Cream through a multi-centric clinical study on infants, children and adults with AD*
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