cognac _ food pairings - results ics 2015.pdfl 5 t o take an interest in food and cognac pairings in...

MAJOR FOOD PAIRINGS

Cognac

Editorial … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 5

ICS Methodology … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 6

Profiles of the Cognacs tasted … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 8

The flavors

Fish, shellfish & crustaceans

… … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 9

Meat & charcuterie … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 18

Fruit & vegetables … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 24

Cheese … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 30

Pâtisserie & chocolate … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 36

Conclusion … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … … p. 42

Contents

MAJOR FOOD PAIRINGS

CognacMeat & charcuteriePeking duckFoie GrasBayonne Ham

Fish, shellfish & crustaceansCaviarShrimpsLobster

Fruit & vegetablesPineappleLitchisApplesCarrotsCucumberShiitake mushrooms

Meat & charcuterieBayonne Ham

Fish, shellfish & crustaceansSmoked herringLobsterSea scallopsSalmon

Fruit & vegetablesRaspberriesApplesPumpkinCarrotsShiitake mushrooms

Meat & charcuteriePeking duckFoie GrasPigeon

Fish, shellfish & crustaceansCancale oysters

Fruit & vegetablesLitchis

Meat & charcuteriePâté in pastry

Pigeon

Fish, shellfish & crustaceansCaviar

LobsterSea scallops

Fruit & vegetablesCherries

RaspberriesApplesPumpkinBeetrootCarrotsShiitake mushrooms

CheeseEmmenthalRoquefort

Pâtisserie &ChocolateMilk chocolateCrème brûléeDark chocolate ganachePancakesTarte Tatin

CheeseEdamCream cheese (Brillat Savarin)Roquefort

Pâtisserie & ChocolateChelsea BunWhite chocolateCrème brûléeDark chocolate ganache

CheeseBrieCheddarCream cheese(Brillat Savarin)Roquefort

Pâtisserie & Chocolate

Dark chocolate ganacheDark chocolate shortbread

Tarte tatin

CheeseFourme d’Ambert

Roquefort

Pâtisserie & chocolate White chocolate

Tarte tatin

FROZEN VS

VS

VSOP

XO

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To take an interest in food and Cognac

pairings in a country where wine reigns

supreme in gastronomic terms is bound to be a

challenge.

But one that the International Cognac Summit

took up when it ran five workshops, one for

each of the five major food groups: meat &

charcuterie; fish, shellfish & crustaceans; fruit

& vegetables; cheese; pâtisserie & chocolate,

in which an array of flavors were put up against

the four most popular categories of Cognac: VS,

Frozen VS, VSOP and XO.

The objective of the exercise was to give the

food and spirits industries “food for thought”,

something which would serve as creative

inspiration to chefs and tasting experts.

The International Cognac Summit 2014 - three

days of tastings, discussions and analyses,

bringing together 45 tastings experts from

around the world – revealed some delicious

food-Cognac “marriages”, as well as some

spectacular “divorces”. Major matches or

encounters best avoided, Cognac does not

leave food indifferent. However, all participants

agree that Cognac has its place on the dinner

table. Harmonious, well-balanced food pairings

highlight Cognac’s complexity and richness.

This document summarizes the work carried out

at the International Cognac Summit.

Yes, Cognac behaves beautifully at the table!

So now we need to have eaux-de-vie lovers

discover its gastronomic character and invite it

to dinner more often!

Martine Nouet

Editorial

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* International Cognac Summit: A BNIC communication

operation with an R&D objective

ICS*

Methodology

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The Maillard reaction is a set of interactions resulting from

an initial reaction between a reducing sugar and an amino

group (proteins). In the early twentieth century, French

biochemist, Louis-Camille Maillard, discovered that amino

acids (proteins) turned brown at high temperature and

released odor-bearing molecules when in the presence of

sugars. This reaction has great importance in food chemistry,

from the grilling of meat to the agreeable taste of bread, because

Maillard reactions are present in almost all culinary preparations,

and especially in cooked meat and fish. All workshops

noted the positive influence of Maillard reactions

on the quality of the Cognac-food pairings.

THE MAILLARD REACTION

1-WORKSHOP METHODOLOGYThe ICS consisted of one workshop per flavor, i.e. 5 major flavor families to be tasted:

- Meat & charcuterie

- Fish, shellfish & crustaceans

- Fruit & vegetables

- Cheese

- Pâtisserie & chocolate

Each workshop consisted of around ten ingredients or foods. Each panel tasted the ingredients alongside the four categories of Cognac: VS, Frozen VS, VSOP and XO.

The Cognacs were selected based on their representation in the different markets, striving for a balance between the different profiles of the Cognac houses and producers, and all the Cognacs were tasted blind.

Each workshop lasted half a day.

2-PANELThe event brought together spirit tasting experts, fine food specialists and food writers (see acknowledgements p.47).

These were represented as follows:

7 chefs: 1 German, 2 Americans, 3 English, 1 Chinese.

15 fine food specialists: 1 German, 1 English, 1 American, 1 Belgian, 11 French.

8 spirit experts: 2 Germans, 1 English, 1 Chinese, 3 French, 1 Russian

12 food writers: 1 German, 1 English, 2 Americans, 1 Chinese, 6 French, 1 Russian.

The nationalities were evenly spread across the workshops in order to ensure an intercultural approach, each participant bringing his/her own knowledge and cultural sensitivity.

The exercise was led by two spirits experts, Martine Nouet and Alexandre Vingtier. They facilitated the groups and reported the results in a fact-based and objective manner.

3-VARIOUS STATES OF COOKINGThe initial focus was on the raw ingredient, i.e. uncooked, as natural as possible, with the flavors intact. Of course, cooking is necessary for some products. These products were therefore perfectly cooked, but without the addition of any spices, sauces or accompaniments.

Sometimes, for the fish and shellfish for example, the product was tasted raw, then cooked. In some workshops, the panel had to taste a finished product such as foie gras or pâté in pastry. Even when minimal, it was shown that cooking had an influence on the Cognac-food pairings. In the case of the pan-fried sea scallops or grilled meat, the caramelization of the sugars (Maillard reaction, see below) causes a chemical reaction on the proteins and thereby establishes a “bridge” between the food and the Cognac, which influences the success of the pairing.

Because of their importance in the success or failure of the pairings, fat and sugar were the subject of much debate in each workshop. Extrapolations then followed, leading to various different culinary proposals and suggested extra ingredients. These side discussions, which were pertinent as they involved chefs and fine food specialists, added to the debate, but sight was never lost of the analytical objective of the exercise. All in all, the work, which was carried out in a studious yet convivial atmosphere, was rich, constructive, and benefited from the assembled knowledge and experience of all those involved.

Time to take a look at the major food and Cognac pairings!

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DESIGNATIONS: VS FROZEN VS VSOP XO

VS Cognac

Because of its youth, VS Cognac still possesses all the distinctive flavors of a wine-based eau-de-vie, particularly its fruity (grapes, citrus, pear, cooked apple, plum, peach and apricot) and floral (vine blossom, daisy, petunia, rose, violet) characteristics.

It has already extracted much of the aromas from the oak during its short aging, but these have not yet had time to fully blend in with the eau-de-vie aromas. For this reason VS Cognac may seem fairly woody and often has a strong character of vanilla (an aroma commonly found in oak) and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg).

Although it is usually bottled at 40 % alcohol like its older siblings, VS Cognac can appear sharper on the nose and very dry on the palate, because the alcohol has not yet had time to

totally melt in with the whole.

FROZEN VS

Frozen Cognacs are Cognacs served at a minus temperature, taken from the freezer at -18°C. This serving method appeared around 10 years ago. It should not be confused with a “Cognac frappé” or a chilled Cognac, served chilled, at close to 0°C, but not frozen.

At room temperature, the temperature of Cognac will take on about 1-2 °C per minute in the glass. This increase in temperature will be accelerated if the glass is swirled.

Due to its alcoholic strength, Cognac will not freeze at this minus temperature, but its texture will be transformed; it becomes more oily and smooth, and the sensation of alcohol on the nose and palate dissipates. Meanwhile, its aromas concentrate, as if they were re-centered on

its backbone: vanilla, fruit and spices are smoother and the woody sensation diminishes significantly.

This is a very special Cognac tasting experience.

Profiles of theCognacs tasted

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VSOP Cognac

As it is older than the VS, this Cognac has had more time to digest the contribution of the oak and for this reason it has a spicy character. Pepper and cloves complement sweet spices (nutmeg, cinnamon). It also possesses toasted, roasted, chocolate or coffee notes from the toasting of the barrels.

The fruity aromas are more candied and rich, with dried kernel fruit, such as apricots or prunes, or even orange marmalade or stewed apples. It develops dried nut aromas, such as almonds and hazelnuts. The floral aromas also evolve and take on a dried character.

While still retaining a certain sweetness, VSOP Cognac often shows a more woody character. The sensation of alcohol has decreased significantly with age.

XO Cognac

Of great aromatic complexity, XO Cognacs can take different directions, depending on the style of the Cognac house: leather, noble woods and incense, exotic fruit (mango, pineapple, passion fruit), jasmine and honeysuckle, sweet spices (saffron) or balsamic notes and of course, a rancio or oxidized character.

When at its very best, this Cognac shows a rare sweetness, the alcohol is perfectly smooth, and the Cognac has taken on fat. It becomes a very complete, slightly sweet and bitter spirit. This is the most structured and richest of all the Cognacs.

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Flavors

Fish, shellfish andcrustaceansSeafood covers a huge

array of species with many

varied flavors. To test a

broad range of pairings,

three families of “marine”

flavor were used: fish, shellfish

and crustaceans. To stay as

true as possible to the raw

product, a plain cooking method

was employed: steaming for the

mussels, pan-frying, with a little

butter or olive oil and a pinch of

salt, for the lobsters, shrimps, sea

scallops, cod and salmon.

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The tastings stressed the importance of having a culinary “bridge” between the seafood and the Cognac.

PAIRING SUCCESS FACTORS

• Fat.

• Sugar.

These are associated with the softness of the flesh of the fish, shellfish and crustaceans.

ROLE OF COOKING

• Steam cooking does not help the pairing.

• Grilling and pan frying release caramelized notes (Maillard reaction) which create a bridge with the Cognac.

In the case of pan frying, the fish should be well seared in a very hot pan and then cooked slowly to ensure it retains a soft texture.

A SPECIFIC AROMATIC PROFILE

To accompany fish and seafood, a fresh, fruity, floral Cognac with very smooth woody notes is the perfect complement.

Youth is a benefit.

• The fruity character of VS needs to express itself through its fresh, juicy fruit and citrus aromas. For this reason, the VS and Frozen VS categories achieve more major pairings than the VSOP and XO.

• The VSOP, due to its more tannic character, struggles to find a place for itself.

• But there were some beautiful pairings with the XO, a category that shows more woody notes and complexity. With the right culinary “bridge”, XO can pair well with seafood.

LES ACCORDS MAJEURSCOGNAC

LobsterCaviarShrimps

Sea scallopsSmoked herringLobsterSalmon

CaviarSea scallopsLobster

FROZEN VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Cancale oysters

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Understanding and deciphering the pairings

VS CognacCRUSTACEANS

Crustaceans match the vanilla notes in the VS

perfectly. This Cognac’s fresh citrus notes reinforce the

pairing.

However, the sweetness of the shrimp’s flesh accentuates the Cognac’s sweet notes. There is a connection, but not a deep match. The shrimp’s firm texture is a blocking point. To create a bridge between the two, some culinary mise en scène would be required.

SHELLFISH

When it comes to shellfish, the vanilla flavors of the fruity Cognac clash with the marine, mineral, iodine, salty/sweet flavors of the mussels. The mussels dominate on the palate. Curiously, if the Cognac is diluted, there is a better connection between the two. But the characters are still at odds with each other: rustic versus urbane…. Perhaps if we tried cooked mussels (in a creamy sauce) and a more rustic Cognac, the pairing might work in terms of textures and flavors, with the contribution of a soft fat. The powerful character of the Cancal oyster upsets the Cognac.

The iodine is in conflict with the Cognac. There is no possible connection between the two even through the sweet notes. Both instantly and invariably clash.

With the sea scallops, the pairing is perfect. The Cognac’s citrus notes highlight the shellfish’s delicate flesh. The butter makes an excellent bridge, which flatters the Cognac and brings out its hazelnut notes and a subtle marine character. To further improve the pairing, a few drops of lemon would create perfect balance and throw open the door to a whole host of possibilities.

FISH

A pairing with the cod is impossible, sadly its perfectly cooked, delicate flesh, coming away in firm flakes, is totally dominated by the Cognac, which is burning on the palate.

However, the fatty flesh of the salmon, with its thick texture, is an excellent springboard for the Cognac, which expresses fruity notes with a hint of citrus. The pairing is also perfect with the raw salmon, with some olive oil to add fruitiness. Lovely balance.

An unexpected revelation is that the delicate smokiness of the herring highlights the oaky notes of the Cognac. They form an instant match. The oily character of the fish diminishes the sensation of alcohol in the Cognac. Smokiness, salt and fat are a winning trio.

The Cognac was tasted with an Alverta caviar ociètre (from the United States). Anthracite in color, the caviar has small, regular grains, a creamy texture and a flavor which is not too salty, but rather sweet with a slight marine character. The richness of the caviar coats the Cognac, whose alcohol is little too strong on entry at first. But this is followed by a wonderful explosion on the palate, with buttery notes and incredible length for both the caviar and the Cognac. The pairing works even better when the Cognac is slightly diluted. •

FROZEN VSCognac CRUSTACEANS

Ice cold, this Cognac expresses citrus notes which are even livelier than those of the VS. Its velvety texture espouses the tender flesh of the lobster. The balance and harmony are perfect. Each highlights the other. The perfect marriage.

Something is lacking between the Cognac and the shrimps if they are to highlight each other’s flavors. However the firmness of the shrimp flesh works better with the Frozen. Fresh product and perfect cooking are crucial.

SHELLFISH

The encounter with the Frozen VS is not conclusive. The sea scallops, whether cooked or uncooked, do not result in a rejection, but

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there is no connection either. The contrast in the temperatures also does not help the pairing. The warm temperature of the sea scallops makes the Cognac alcoholic.

Cognac plays a supporting role to the mussels, it highlights their meaty flesh and sweetness (if the mussels are lightly cooked). However the Cognac does not receive anything in return, except to benefit from their salty character. A one-way pairing, so ultimately, unsatisfactory.

The pairing with Cancale oysters divides the panel. For some panel members, the encounter produces an unpleasant “metallic” shock, for others, the Cognac echoes the minerality of the oysters and the oysters accentuate the fruitiness of the Cognac: somewhat confusing and no doubt down to personal tastes.

FISH

Contrary to expectations, the pairing between the Frozen VS and herring does not work. The cold temperature of the Cognac takes away the fatness of the fish and the Cognac dominates. The Cognac loses its elegance and expresses bitterness.

The salmon was another disappointment, where the connection just does not happen. The Frozen Cognac shows its alcohol more than it does at room temperature. It tends to dominate the salmon, both cooked and uncooked. The texture of the cooked salmon (and its warm temperature) dries the Cognac.

With the cod, the pairing is not underpinned by a true exchange, the cold has tempered the fire of the alcohol. There is harmony and balance in the delicacy and nuances of flavors, so long as the cod has been well seared (caramelization).

The Cognac shows incredible complicity with the osciétre imperial caviar! The viscosity of the Cognac echoes the buttery character of the caviar and gives it hazelnut notes. There is a clear and complete harmony with a fine, delicate exchange, a match on the fruit aromas, and marine notes on the back-palate. Almost pâtisserie-like. Magnificent! •

VSOP CognacSHELLFISH

The VSOP Cognac, with its tannic character, generally dominates the sea flavors.

The iodized character of the Cancale oysters fades away when in contact with the Cognac, which highlights its sweet notes and almond flavors. The salt of the Cancale oysters revives the Cognac. The iodine returns on the finish. There is a lovely back and forth between the sweetness and the saltiness.

The caramelization of the cooked sea scallops is not enough to create a bridge. The uncooked sea scallops create a sensation of alcohol.

The panel is divided on the mussels, but the negative opinions predominate. The Cognac brings out astringent notes. The iodized flavors, coming through in retro-olfaction, conflict with the flavors of the Cognac.

FISH

The cod also fails miserably, the Cognac dominates, producing astringent notes and completely overwhelming the fish.

The cooked salmon just disappears and there is also no connection between the uncooked salmon and the Cognac. A pairing might have been possible with the cooked salmon if it had a teriyaki sauce for example, or with the uncooked salmon with a floral, lemony olive oil.

The Caviar dislikes the tannins from the oak! The VSOP, which expresses a woody character, assaults the caviar and bitterness dominates. There is a lack of respect and therefore no harmony.

The Cognac shows a lot of tannin which conflicts with the smokiness of the herring. However the VSOP’s vanilla character really brings out the sweet notes in the herring. The pairing is not as spectacular as it is with the VS, but there is no incompatibility.

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The panel agrees that better results would have been obtained with a less woody VSOP than the one used in the workshop.•

XO CognacCRUSTACEANS

The lobster dominates the Cognac at first, but this comes back

through on the finish with a touch of astringency. There is the start of an

exchange with the grilled part of the lobster (due to caramelization), but not with the crustacean itself. However, the panel felt that a pairing might possibly work with a more sophisticated cooking method providing a culinary bridge.

The shrimps tend to dominate the Cognac (especially a young, fruity XO). However, they bring out their fruit and hazelnut notes. A woody XO dominates the shrimps. The shrimps need spices added to achieve a good balance.

SHELLFISH

Surprisingly cooked sea scallops pair very well with the XO, provided it is not woody, but has a fruitier, vanilla character. With uncooked sea scallops, the Cognac tends to dominate and overwhelm, but if you take in a few drops of Cognac on the palate, there is a nice pairing created by the freshness and sweetness of the shellfish’s flesh.

However, the mussels are not more successful with the XO. Sea flavors (fish and salt notes) emerge and clash with the Cognac.

The XO/Cancale oysters pairing is also best forgotten. There is a conflict of personalities, a clash of the titans, some might say! The Cancale oysters clash with the sweet character of the Cognac, which they exacerbate to the point of highlighting the caramel flavors, while the Cognac attacks the Oysters with its tannins, creating a metallic aftertaste.

FISH

The Cognac also dominates fish. The cod is not able to impose itself. Unlike the VSOP, the XO brings out the salt in the herring and dries it. The fat of the fish does not save the pairing. A Frozen XO would perhaps have worked better.

Curiously, with the salmon, the results are better, but with a fruity, fairly young, XO, without a woody character. The Cognac still has a tendency to dominate. In terms of textures, the pairing is better with uncooked fish (but the Cognac dominates). There is a stodgy sensation on the palate with the cooked fish.

With a fruity and already complex XO, the pairing with the caviar is mind blowing. It creates an explosion of flavors on the palate, with the fat of the caviar softening the alcohol of the Cognac, which then reveals all its complexity. Exuberant, noble, rich, luxurious. •

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Major pairingsCAVIAR

The Caviar/Cognac union is perfect. Undoubtedly, the top of the hit parade within the “sea pairing” workshop. So long as the Cognac does not have a woody character, there is a total match. It needs fruit and vanilla, and when complexity is there too, the pairing is superb. The Frozen Cognac also suits the caviar.

LOBSTER

Between the lobster and Cognac, there is a real collusion and the cooking method plays an important role in this. The association with the XO calls for the lobster to be well cooked (roasted and brought out by some spices and a sauce).

But it is with the Frozen VS that the pairing works best, with a virtually plain lobster. This is an obvious, deep match.

SMOKED HERRING

Is smoked herring too rustic for Cognac? Maybe not, as it can flatter the younger spirits. The smokiness and the fat create a magnificent pairing with the VS, an acceptable pairing with the VSOP, and a mediocre one with the XO. Only the Frozen VS doesn’t work at all.

IN CONCLUSION

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Possible pairingsSEA SCALLOPS

With sea scallops the reactions are very diverse. When cooked, the butter and the caramelization create an excellent bridge with the VS Cognac and a surprising bridge with the XO. But the cold temperature of the Frozen VS acts as a barrier. When raw, the sea scallops are more difficult to pair, they need something more (oil, lemon, spices).

SHRIMPS

For Shrimps, as for the lobster, the cooking method and freshness are very important factors. The pairing with grilled Shrimps works, but can be further improved by spices or a sauce. The best balance is obtained with the Frozen VS. The aromatic profile of the Cognac, especially for the older categories, is crucial. A woody or tannic character is a real hurdle.

SALMON

Fat is one of the keys to a successful pairing. With the salmon, it is a critical factor whether it relates to the fat in the fish, in the cooking or the seasoning. The Cognac should not be woody or sweet, but have a light, fruity (citrus) and floral aromatic profile.

CANCALE OYSTERS

There is no room for half measures when you have a personality like that of the Cancale oyster. Personal tastes play a significant role in the appreciation of the pairings. Iodine is the battle ground. The Cognac and the Cancale oysters can either annihilate each other, or magnify each other. A fruity Cognac with a strong character is called for, preferably served at room temperature. The VSOP wins, hands down.

Best avoidedMUSSELS

Contrary to expectations, the mussels were disappointing. They did not find a single Cognac with which they could create a real connection. These shellfish are too rustic, with too much iodine. Although the result is more flattering with the Frozen VS, balance is still not achieved. Only the VSOP with a pronounced woody character remains. A more supple, unctuous Cognac with fruit and vanilla notes would not without a doubt have improved the results. Mussels remain a challenge for Cognac.

COD

Most very delicate fish, uncooked or lightly cooked, containing a high proportion of water, cannot pair with Cognac. The flesh of the cod is firm but fairly watery and non-greasy, which makes it difficult for the textures to harmonize. Even after grilling (with searing and caramelization), the flavors of the cod struggle to express themselves. How would it have fared with a sauce?

1

2

3

4

5

Frozen VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Major pairing: 3.5 or overPossible pairing: between 2 and 3.5Best avoided: Under 2

Lobster

ShrimpsSmokedherring

CaviarSea

scallops

MusselsSalmon

Cancale oystersCod

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Flavors

Meat & CharcuterieAll participants agree that

Bayonne ham, pigeon and

foie gras create good pairings.

The reaction is more mixed for

the beef, lamb and duck.

Sausage, pork and chicken are

generally disappointing.

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Cognac comes into its own with the fat of the meat. And the meat, if well matured, will express its organoleptic qualities and character, which are even more compatible with an old Cognac.


• An important point to remember: the fat of the meat must be incorporated into the muscle fiber.

• Adding salt, and in preference sea salt, enhances the pairings with the old Cognacs (VSOP and XO).

ROLE OF COOKING

The tenderness of the meat must be carefully preserved during cooking. The presence of blood is a good indicator. It creates a natural bond between the Cognac and the flesh of the meat.

In order to create a bridge with the Cognac, the cooking method should try to create a Maillard Reaction, wherein the sugars act on the proteins. This produces a crisp, caramelized skin, like that of chicken, which significantly improves the pairing.


• The “classic” meats (lamb, beef) only potentially pair with one Cognac, a young VS.

• A nice, long-aged Cognac, on the other hand, helps the more aromatic meats. Peking duck, pigeon, even a more mature beef (over 30 days), will pair with an XO Cognac.

FROZEN VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Foie grasPigeonPeking duck

PigeonPâté in pastry

MAJOR COGNAC PAIRINGS

Bayonne ham

Foie grasBayonne hamPeking duck

COGNAC

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VS CognacMEAT

Cognac VS pairs with meat such as lamb or beef – tender,

bloody and fairly fat.

However, pork and chicken, which are drier and more fibrous meats, reinforce the sensation of alcohol. It should be noted that the fat of the pork or the skin of the chicken form a good bond with the Cognac but these qualities alone are not sufficient.

It was expected that the fruitiness of the Peking duck, usually cooked over apple or cherry wood, would create a lovely pairing. The Chinese chef stated that his compatriots sometimes drink the VS with the Peking duck, although they are more accustomed to the XO.

The pigeon, with its strong flavors, is a fabulous surprise.

CHARCUTERIE

As for charcuterie pairings, the test on the crisp, peppery pork sausage, produces a black or white verdict: you either hate it or love it. Try it for yourself and see!

The Bayonne ham produced the first major pairing in this workshop. The fat and umami of the dried meat serve as a support and the aromas come together and complement each other perfectly. The perfect aperitif pairing! •

Cognac FROZEN VSMEAT

The Frozen Cognac, tested as an experiment, did not produce any convincing results with the meats it accompanied.

Only the pigeon or the very fruity Peking duck were successful in this particular context.

For some meats, with the exception of game, the experiment should probably be avoided. Even the lamb and beef are thrashed by it. The fat seems to precipitate the alcohol, creating an unpleasant sensation in the throat. Best forgotten.

CHARCUTERIE

The same result for the charcuterie, even though the tests with the foie gras and the Bayonne ham offer some new flavors on the palate and are worth trying. •

VSOP CognacMEAT

VSOP Cognac seems to be too complex for the lamb or beef, the blood struggles to bond with the spicy, woody Cognac. A chicken or pork pairing is even harder with the VSOP.

It works best with the Peking duck and the pigeon, and the panel agrees that these are major pairings with the VSOP!

“Peking duck, a tried and tested pairing in China”

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CHARCUTERIE

The sausage and pâté in pastry react badly to the spicy character of the Cognac.

Bayonne Ham pairs very well, but there is less harmony: perhaps a more mature ham with an older Cognac would work better?

Finally, a new major pairing is achieved with the foie gras, whose aromas are enhanced by the alcohol, and whose fat brings out the Cognac really well. •

XO CognacMEAT

The XO Cognac confirms the trend seen with the drier meats, such as pork

and chicken, as well as the bloody meats such as lamb and beef: the Cognac dominates and shows its woody, bitter side.

On the other hand, the pairing still works very well with the pigeon.

CHARCUTERIE

Although successful, we were expecting more from the pairing with the foie gras or the Bayonne ham. These foods need to be sustained, for example, by dry or dried fruit, a jam or a chutney.

As in the case of the VS, the sausage once more produces very conflicting results: it is not a universal pairing, far from it, but it is not an impossible match either.

The pâté in pastry is a pleasant surprise, the complexity and the relative bitterness of the Cognac allow it to pair better and to complement the pâté in pastry’s different ingredients (in this case, foie gras and rabbit). •

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Major pairingsPIGEON

The pigeon (with its slightly gamey flavor) works very well with a Cognac served at room temperature. We can well imagine that game, with its strong flavor, would create definitive, even spectacular, pairings. Ideal for gourmet restaurants and for hunters who cook!

BAYONNE HAM

The Bayonne ham, with its umami, is a lovely surprise and works every time. Other dried hams, such a Parma, Serrano and Pata Negra, would also be worth trying. It is also an interesting pairing in terms of the how it is consumed, i.e. as an aperitif - easy to reproduce at home and easy for bars, pubs and restaurants to offer their customers.

It would be very interesting to create a platter of the perfect charcuterie to accompany Cognac and possibly to mix and match it with a cheese board, putting Cognac at the center of the enjoyment.

IN CONCLUSION

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Possible pairingsFOIE GRAS

The foie gras (here, very simply prepared with salt and pepper) should be served melting, at a moderate temperature, for it to pair well with the Cognac. This is an easy to reproduce and transformable pairing.

PATÉ IN PASTRY

Several factors, including the difference in how well the pastry crust is cooked at the top and at the bottom, or whether the pâté includes foie gras, make the pâté in pastry pairing difficult to judge. The Frozen VS can work. Due to its complexity, the XO seems to be the Cognac more likely to pair well with the pâté in the pastry’s various ingredients.

PEKING DUCK

The Peking duck must have tender flesh and a nice crispy skin to create a definitive pairing (one already common in China).

BEEF

For a successful pairing, the beef should be matured and fat, and helped by the addition of salt.

LAMB

Lamb reacts best when bloody in the center and well seared and sealed on the outside, after slow cooking.

Best avoidedPORK

The dryness of the pork is a big hurdle, the pairing is neutralized, both in terms of textures and aromas. Aromas from cooking or from a sauce, caramelization or spices would appear to be essential to create a bridge between the pork and the Cognac.

CHICKEN

The more fibrous white meat of the chicken dries out and becomes more elastic and unpleasant, while the skin, which is ideally crisp and fat, pairs nicely. The result was not much better with chicken legs and wings. A sauce would appear to be indispensable.

SAUSAGE

The lightly smoked and peppery sausage can work with the VS and the XO, even for non sausage lovers, but the pairing is still risky.

1

2

3

4

5

VS Frozen

VS

VSOP

XO

Lamb

BeefSausage

Chicken Duck

Foiegras

Pork

Pigeon Bayonne ham

Pâtéin pastry


l 24l 24

Flavors

Fruit and vegetables are either

accompaniments or they are used

in desserts. To put them up against

Cognac, one after the other, is an

unusual and somewhat perilous

exercise: no sauce, plain cooking or a

simple transformation.

Fruit & vegetables

l 25

Tasting fruit and vegetables gives us a unique opportunity to analyze the fundamental relationship of the different Cognacs with various types of flavors and textures: bitter, sour or tart, sweet, salty, umami and fat.


• To prevent it from being an obstacle to the pairing, acidity should be countered by the fat of the Cognac, as in the case of the pineapple pairing. When the acidity is not excessive, a slight tart character is compatible with XO or VS Cognacs.

• The bitterness of certain products can be a barrier to the pairing, e.g. the cucumber with the VS. However, the sensation of bitterness diminishes with the Frozen Cognac, due to its oily texture associated with the precipitation of the Cognac’s fat.


• The XO is compatible with sweetness, tartness, saltiness and bitterness (if not due to lack of ripeness), and umami, of course. It could be declared a proudly gastronomic spirit!

PineappleLitchiAppleCarrotCucumberShiitake mushrooms

CherriesRaspberriesBeetrootCarrotPumpkinShiitake Mushrooms

MAJOR COGNAC PAIRINGSCOGNAC

RaspberriesAppleCarrotPumpkinShiitake mushrooms

FROZEN VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Litchi

UMAMIUmami, or “pleasant

savory taste”, is a

basic taste which is

compatible with

Cognac, as shown by

the shiitake mushroom,

Cognac’s major and

universal pairing.

l 26


VS CognacFRUIT

The VS Cognac, at room temperature, does not

appreciate the acidity of the fruit: pineapple, cherries or

blood orange.

But if the acidity is not excessive and is offset by sufficient sugar, the Cognac can marry with a fairly tart character: raspberries or apple.

VEGETABLES

VS Cognac goes well with the sweet and savory notes of carrots and pumpkin.

However, the neutrality of the cucumber flesh and the relative neutrality of the potato (although fairly sweet), reduces the likelihood of a bond with the Cognac. In the case of the cucumber, the bitterness of the skin is reinforced by the alcohol in the Cognac. This bitterness is also the probable cause of the avocado’s (fat and bitter) and the beetroot’s (sweet and bitter) failure to pair.

The umami of Shiitake mushrooms makes them perfectly compatible. •

Frozen VSFRUIT

Frozen VS pairs very well with fruit in general.

With the exception of red fruit, in this case cherries and

raspberries (the pâtisserie workshop confirms this to be the case with strawberries too), or the blood orange.

But this does not exclude the citrus family as a whole, and especially not the lemon. In fact, the aromas of the grapes that go into Cognac, especially the Ugni Blanc which makes up 98% of the vineyards, are very fruity and come through particularly well in the Frozen VS. The smooth, tart candy-drop character of the

Cognac served at a minus temperature, is the key to understanding the pairing: the precipitation of the Cognac’s fat gives it an oily texture which allows it to counter the acidity or astringency in the fruit. It can also attenuate the sensation of bitterness in the pairing. There is therefore an aromatic complementarity and the pairings are gently created.

VSOP CognacThe less sweet and relatively dry VSOP is generally not so good. In this case, only the litchi and the cherries come out well, as well as the invincible shiitake mushrooms, although the intensity of the pairing is somewhat diminished. •

XO CognacThe XO is the fullest, richest and fattest of the Cognacs and it is also the most bitter. These characteristics explain why this Cognac generally creates the best pairings with fruit and vegetables.

Only the fat bitterness of the avocado and the watery bitterness of the cucumber are incompatible with it.

Even the sweetness and relative neutrality of the potato create a better match with the XO Cognac.

The beetroot, with its earthy notes, pairs very well with the tertiary notes of the Cognac. •

l 27l 27

“A delicious pairing with cherries”

l 28

MajorpairingsSHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

The shiitake mushrooms are a big surprise: the umami of the mushrooms creates a major and universal pairing with Cognac.

CARROT

Carrot purée is definitely a good accompaniment to all the Cognacs, if not to say a universal accompaniment to Cognac.

PINEAPPLE

A connection with the pineapple is created when its acidity is countered by the fat of the Cognac. It is a major pairing with the Frozen VS and a very good pairing with the XO. The result would be even better with cooked or candied pineapple.

IN CONCLUSION

l 29

Possible pairingsPUMPKIN

Devoid of any bitterness, the sweet-sour pumpkin pairs very well with all the Cognacs.

BEETROOT

The beetroot, fairly sweet with its earthy notes, can only pair with a VSOP or XO Cognac.

POTATO

Potatoes can accompany a dish to create a pairing with Cognac. Ideally, these should be roasted or sautéed to create a stronger bond.

LITCHI

The litchi, a very sweet fruit, does not appreciate the VS Cognac, but pairs very nicely with the Frozen VS and the older Cognacs.

RED FRUIT

With their tart character, the red fruits, the raspberries and cherries, pair with the XO Cognac and can sometimes pair with younger Cognacs.

BLOOD ORANGE

The blood orange does not pair well with Cognac in general, even if the Frozen VS produces better results. Its acidity is not conducive to the pairing.

Best avoidedAVOCADO

The avocado seems incompatible with Cognac due to its fat. To use it as an accompaniment, the avocado must be fully ripe and a bond should be created with the Cognac through the sauce and the main food.

CUCUMBER

The cucumber, with its high water content, freshness, relatively neutral flesh and very bitter skin, only pairs with the Frozen VS Cognac.

1

2

3

4

5

Frozen VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Pineapple

AvocadoShiitake

mushrooms

Pumpkin Beetroot

CarrotPotato

Apple Cherries

CucumberBloodorange

Litchi RaspberriesMajor pairing: 3.5 or overPossible pairing: between 2 and 3.5Best avoided: Under 2

l 30l 30

Flavors

CheeseIn order to reflect Cognac’s

main markets, the “cheese

board” tasted by the cheese

workshop participants took

account of the cheese tastes

and habits of an international

clientele. Hence the presence

of tofu, representing Asian

“cheese”, British and North

American Cheddar and Dutch

Edam. The selected varieties

represent different cheese types,

so the selection could easily be

expanded to create further

pairings.

l 31



• The serving temperature of the cheese is crucial. At a cooler temperature, there is tolerance. At room temperature, the cheese dominates.

• The rich, creamy texture of the cheese has a bearing on the success of the pairing. The creaminess of the cheese enhances the fruity notes in the Cognac. The Cognac in turn gives the cheese length. In the cream cheese, we see an interesting change in texture from creamy to melting, under the effect of the Cognac.


• Young, fruity Cognacs pair best with mild cheeses while the older, more woody and complex Cognacs produce more harmonious matches with mature cheeses.

• The Frozen VS was unconvincing, the cold temperature lessens the sensation of alcohol, but blocks the aromatic expression, causing the very mature cheeses to dominate. Only Emmental allows some connection.

• All categories of Cognac can accommodate the prickly character of the Roquefort, especially the VSOP, which also achieved the most major pairings.

• The XO demands strong cheeses, it is the only one to achieve any kind of dialogue with the Camembert and Fourme d’Ambert.

• The VS, on the other hand, is more versatile. It calls for rich, creamy cheeses. Here again, the success of the pairings depends on the fat.

The panel worked with cheeses mainly produced from raw milk, perfectly matured, and served at room temperature, crucial for the quality of the pairings.

FROZEN VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Cream cheese (Brillat Savarin)EdamRoquefort

EmmentalRoquefort

CheddarRoquefortBrieCream cheese (Brillat Savarin)

Forme d’AmbertRoquefort

l 32


VS Cognac The tofu is completely dominated,

it only exacerbates the sensation of alcohol.

The vanilla notes agree with the mildness of the Edam and the fat of the

cream cheese. Edam’s elastic texture is in accord with the youth of the Cognac. The fat, creamy and fondant texture of the Roquefort lessens the burning sensation of the alcohol. The strong character and salty flavor of the cheese are felt to slightly dominate the Cognac, but the pairing works well nonetheless.

The rich, creamy texture of the Camembert allows a nice match with the Cognac in theory, but the cheese’s pronounced hay, earthy and animal flavors make the exchange difficult. The cheese tends to dominate the Cognac. There is something is going on however, but more to the cheese’s advantage than the Cognac’s.

THE INFLUENCE OF MATURITY

The maturity of a cheese makes it difficult to pair with this young Cognac. • The Brie is well matured and creamy, but it

conflicts with the power of the Cognac’s alcohol. Its mushroom notes come through on the finish. A less mature Brie would have been better for the VS.

• The VS and the Cheddar are totally at odds with each other, as the cheese is too strong and clashes with the vanilla and caramel notes in the Cognac, which in turn brings out the cheese’s salt and acidity.

The connection between the Emmental and the VS is interesting, because it plays on the sweet flavor of the cheese, but it doesn’t do much on the palate. A younger cheese would have produced a better exchange.

The strong flavors of the Fourme d’Ambert also tend to dominate the VS, but the Cognac makes the cheese soft and velvety, while the cheese reduces the nip of the alcohol. •

FROZEN VS Cognac The Frozen VS brings out the fruity

and salty flavors of the neutrally flavored Emmental. The Cognac takes on a pleasant buttery flavor.

The Frozen Cognac and the Roquefort create a lovely harmony. There is a complementary match which plays on the sweetness of the Cognac confronted with the aromatic intensity of the cheese (salty, animal notes). The textures match perfectly, but the salt comes through more than it does with the VS.

The Fourme d’Ambert is out of balance with the Frozen VS. Although the cheese comes out on top in this pairing, the Cognac is worse off. The Frozen Cognac enhances the aromas of the Fourme d’Ambert, particularly the cheese’s mold, with its “damp cellar” aromas, but it disappears.

THE INFLUENCE OF TEMPERATURE

The temperature of the Cognac has a bearing on the results. The alcohol is less noticeable with the Cheddar, which helps the fruity notes to express themselves in both the cheese and the Cognac. The contrast between the room temperature (of the cream cheese) and the cold temperature (of the Cognac), brings out a strong bitterness which gives the cheese light fermentation flavors.

Bitterness is also brought out in the Cognac paired with the Camembert which, sweetened with fruity notes from the Frozen VS, takes on an elastic, nearly runny texture.

The exchange between the Edam and the Frozen VS remains superficial. No big clash, but no real connection either. The pairing affects the texture, turning it rubbery. The sweetness of the tofu comes through slightly, but the cheese ends up by vanishing in the face of the Cognac. •

l 33l 33

“Roquefort, a formidable ally”

l 34l 34

l 35

VSOP Cognac The Roquefort creates a

superb pairing. The creamy texture of the cheese and the

silky texture of the Cognac marry harmoniously together. The

pairing produces opulent aromas and flavors, with the cheese drawing

attention to the woody, spicy notes of the Cognac. A rich, pleasant intensity is created.

The VSOP and the Cheddar also interact harmoniously. The saltiness of the cheese brings out the fruit and spices of the Cognac. The fatty, crumbly texture of the cheese brings the Cognac to life, which in turn adds length to the cheese. All in all, a lovely pairing.

The Brie and the VSOP balance each other. The fruitiness of the Cognac gives the cheese a touch of sweetness. The cheese, with its distinctive mushroom aromas, heightens the VSOP’s woody and spicy notes. The textures also match, creating a silky character. We also find an almost velvety texture with the sweetness and fat of the cream cheese, which enhance the fruity notes of the Cognac, which in turn brings out the acidity and saltiness of the cream cheese.

BLOCKAGES AND CONFLICTS

The VSOP dominates the tofu, Edam and Emmental. The Cognac and the Edam remain disassociated and the cheese tends to dry out. The VSOP and the Emmental are at odds with each other, both in terms of textures and flavors. The cheese’s elasticity turns rubbery. The Cognac’s alcohol dominates and brings out the acidity of the cheese. Best avoided.

There is also no connection taking place with the Camembert or the Fourme d’Ambert. The sweet, vanilla notes of the Cognac and the strong animal flavors of the Camembert conflict. The tannins in the Cognac make the cheese slightly astringent. We were anticipating some harmony between the prickliness of the Fourme d’Ambert’s penicillium and the vanilla of the VSOP. It didn’t happen. The cheese makes the Cognac extremely sweet and monochrome, dominating on the finish. •

XO Cognac The XO and the Fourme

d’Ambert are in total accord. The intense creaminess of the texture is interesting. These two strong characters together create a third flavor of toasted and leather notes. The fruity notes of the Cognac are brought out really well, while the spirit gives the cheese complexity. The pairing between the Roquefort and the XO is also successful, although slightly less symbiotic than it is with the VSOP.

The XO calls for strong cheeses, such as the two blue cheeses, but it also likes the Camembert. There is a nice contrast between the woody, dry character of the Cognac and the creaminess of the cheese, with buttery notes on the finish.

The Brie and the Cognac XO, however, do not really find a connection. The fairly woody Cognac tends to dominate at the end, the Brie having taken control at the beginning.

DISRUPTING VALUES

The woody notes of the XO, with a hint of astringency, come through with both the tofu and the Cheddar but, in the case of the latter, there is nevertheless a connection.

The XO Cognac dominates the cream cheese and the Edam. The latter loses its flavor once the Cognac hits the palates. With the cream cheese, there are still some fat/cream-based exchanges, but in this case, the complexity of the Cognac and its woody notes prevent a perfect pairing. The cheese is dominated by the Cognac, with bitterness on the finish.

There is a connection between the Emmental and the XO, but it lacks balance. The Cognac brings out the acidity of the cheese, it coats the fat, but accentuates the bitterness. The cheese lacks the fruitiness needed to sustain the exchange with the Cognac, which tends to stifle it. •

l 36

Major pairingsROQUEFORT

Whatever the Cognac, the Roquefort dominates the cheese workshop. The pairing plays on the sweet, vanilla notes of the Cognac, on the creaminess of the cheese and, in contrast, on its typical, salty and prickly character. Mind blowing with the VSOP, excellent with the XO and the VS, and very good with the Frozen VS.

FOURME D’AMBERT

The Fourme d’Ambert tends to dominate the Cognac, especially the Frozen VS. However, with the VS, the Cognac brings out the cheese in a pleasant way. It forms a major pairing with the XO where the combination adds complexity on both sides.

CHEDDAR

The Cheddar tends to dominate the young Cognacs, but finds harmony and balance with the older Cognacs, and especially with the VSOP, where the fruity notes create a major pairing.

CREAM CHEESE

The Brillat Savarin produces a major pairing with the VS. The match plays on the fat and the creaminess. The cold (Frozen VS) upsets the equation, bringing bitterness. The vanilla and fruit of the VSOP are satisfied, while the woody profile of the XO clashes with the youth of the cheese.

IN CONCLUSION

l 37

Possible pairingsBRIE

With the Brie, the pairing with the VSOP plays across the aromatic spectrum. The cheese gently gains from the match and the Cognac is enriched with earthy, mushroomy notes. For the VS, the strength of the alcoholic creates a barrier. There is little exchange with the Frozen VS. The XO-Brie pairing is a failure.

CAMEMBERT

Camembert finds it difficult to make a connection with the Cognacs. Although the creamy, soft texture is a plus, its pronounced animal flavors clash with the Cognac’s vanilla notes. However, the tannins in the XO create a bridge.

Best avoidedTOFU

No pairings with the tofu, a victim to its lack of flavor.

EDAM

The Edam does not conquer, with one exception: the VS, where there is a match between the sweet notes of the Cognac and the supple texture of the cheese. The VSOP and XO are too complex for subtly-flavored cheeses.

EMMENTAL

Fairly neutral in flavor, the Emmental and the Frozen VS mutually enrich each other. It produces an average pairing with the VS, conflict and rejection with the VSOP, and mutual tolerance with the XO.


1

2

3

4

5

Frozen VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Tofu

Fourme d’Ambert

Roquefort Cream cheese(Brillat Savat)

Brie

CheddarCamembert

Emmental Edam

l 38l 38

Flavors

Pâtisserie& chocolateMost of Cognac’s successful

pairings are revealed by this

workshop, with all Cognacs

obtaining a similar number.

l 39

No big surprises here: Cognac is the ideal companion for desserts, but beware, not all desserts...


• The vanilla and caramel aromas are key to the harmony with the crème brûlée, the pancakes’ maple syrup, and the tarte tatin.

• Pâtisserie and Cognac do not make the best matches, the flour and yeast are at odds with the vivacity of the alcohol.


• The younger the Cognac, the better it pairs with chocolate with a fondant texture, such as white or milk chocolate. Dark and bitter chocolates are happier with the older Cognacs.

• The frozen VS pairs very well with cocoa, but its more oily texture harmonizes even better with ganache and milk chocolate.

FROZEN VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Crème brûléeChelsea bunDark ganacheWhite chocolate

Tarte TatinCrème brûléeMilk chocolateDark ganachePancakes

Dark chocolate shortbreadTarte tatinDark ganache

Tarte tatinWhite chocolate


l 40

VS CognacCHOCOLATE

The VS Cognac pairs very well with all types of

chocolate, but especially those with a fondant texture such

as white chocolate, ganache and milk chocolate, which coat the alcohol of the VS Cognac more easily.

On the other hand, the pairing with the dark chocolate shortbread can produce contrasting impressions because its relative dryness reinforces the impression of bitterness and the sensation of alcohol.

PÂTISSERIE

The crème brûlée is very interesting and produces a major pairing because, in addition to its fondant texture, its thin layer of crisp caramel immediately attenuates the VS Cognac’s sensation of alcohol. In turn, the Cognac reinforces the vanilla and caramel aromas and creates a harmonious blend, which is very long on the palate.

Pâtisserie, on the other hand, is not the best companion for VS Cognac, mainly due to its flour and yeast which clash with the vivacity of the alcohol. • The cake or pastry decomposes, in terms of

aromas, and it is very difficult to find any good bonds.

This mismatch is made worse by acidity, such as that of the strawberry tart, or by salt such as that found in the cheesecake.

The match would improve with a sweet binder, such as honey, and a soft texture, as shown by the gingerbread.

However, both the tarte tatin’s very runny caramel and the pancakes’ maple syrup absorb the VS Cognac and neutralize it.

The exception to the pâtisserie rule is the Chelsea bun, where the icing lessens the sensation of alcohol, and the currants create the bond and add length to the pairing with a very soft texture. •

FROZEN VSCHOCOLATE

The Frozen VS pairs very well with cocoa in all its forms, milk chocolate, dark ganache and dark chocolate.

But with the white chocolate and its cocoa butter, its relative neutrality is reinforced.

All in all, the more oily texture of the Frozen VS harmonizes with the ganache and milk chocolate just as well, if not better, than the VS Cognac.

PÂTISSERIE

We hit home again with the crème brûlée, another major pairing, perhaps even better than with the VS, as the cold temperature brings out the Cognac’s vanilla flavors and reinforces the harmony.

This time the oily texture of the Cognac agrees with the caramel and the syrup! The pairings with the pancakes with maple syrup, and above all with the tarte tatin, therefore work very well, as if the alcohol needed to add intensity gradually without confronting the sweet liquid head on.

There is no connection created with the other pâtisseries: once again, the flour and the yeast clash with the alcohol. •

VSOP & XO Cognac: the old CognacsJust this once, we a putting the old Cognacs, the VSOPs and XOs, in the same category because their results are so similar. These can be summed up as follows:

l 41

“Chocolate is a

major pairing

with all Cognacs”

The bitterness of the dark chocolate actually pairs a little better with the old Cognacs, especially in the case of the dark chocolate shortbread. As with the VS, the Ganache, milk chocolate and white chocolate also create pairings and these show greater complexity due to the Cognacs’ age.

The crème brûlée is still attractive, but less so. The problem is created by the force of the Cognacs’ aromas which dominate the dessert.

Pâtisserie is still not brilliant. The cake or pastry absorbs the Cognac too much and the Cognac is too powerful, spicy or woody, due to its aging. Except in the case of the pancakes with maple syrup, where an unpleasant texture is added to a cloying finish: the Cognac strengthens the syrup too much. Lastly, the acidity in the strawberry tart once again defeats any possibility of a potential pairing.

There are two major exceptions to this. The first is the tarte tatin: probably the most successful pairing. Because it is served warm, the rich aromas of the Cognac pervade the entire palate and nose and then melt into the tarte tatin without excessive sweetness. The second is the cheesecake, which could be very good if it is made with the right proportion of cheese cream to biscuit base, to prevent the fat from swallowing up the Cognac. •

l 42

MajorpairingsCHOCOLATE

Whatever the Cognac, the results are generally positive with all types of chocolate. The more fondant chocolate types effectively attenuate the strength of the VS Cognac’s alcohol. Cocoa pairs well with the Frozen VS. The older the Cognac, the more complete the pairing. The dark and bitter chocolate types also come into their own with the older Cognacs.

TARTE TATIN

Served warm, tarte tatin pairs well with nearly all the Cognacs (except the VS at room temperature, which seems to be absorbed by the caramel and the pastry). It brings out the aromas without excessive sweetness.

IN CONCLUSION

l 43

Possible pairingsCRÈME BRULÉE

Crème brûlée pairs very well with young Cognacs, but is less interesting with very old Cognacs (XO), which vanish into the cream.

CHELSEA BUN

The Chelsea bun, a spicy currant bun, only pairs well with a young Cognac. Its dried fruit creates an exceptionally good bond with the Cognac.

CHEESECAKE

The cheesecake is too creamy and overwhelms the Cognac: the proportion of cheese cream to the biscuit base must therefore be carefully balanced to achieve a good pairing, especially with the old Cognacs. The shortbread biscuit base is an example of an aromatic complement to the Cognac.

GINGERBREAD

Gingerbread can pair well if it is soft enough and contains enough honey.

PANCAKES

The Pancakes pair with the Frozen VS through their maple syrup, which enables the alcohol and aromas of the Cognac to diffuse more slowly.

Best avoidedSTAWBERRY TART

The acidity of the strawberry tart makes it difficult for any pairings to be created.


1

2

3

4

5

Frozen VS

VS

VSOP

XO

Chelsea Bun

Gingerbread

GingerbreadCrème brûlée

Whitechocolate

Cheesecake

Strawberrytart

Pancakes Dark chocolate shortbread

Darkganache

Milkchocolate

Tarte tatin

l 44l 44

“Aromas, textures and delicacy”

The main learning to come out of the

International Cognac Summit, is that

Cognac is a spirit which pairs well with

fine food and cuisine. It may, therefore,

be invited to the dinner table, whatever

the occasion or dishes served. Seafood,

meat, fruit, vegetables, cheese and

dessert can be accompanied by one or

more different types of Cognac.

IN CONCLUSION

Cognac, an eminent guest at the fine dining table

l 45

The main principles of Cognac pairing

1The first obvious fact is that Cognac

cannot be paired with bland food or

dishes. For it to pair well, Cognac needs

contrast and character. This is due to the very

nature of Cognac. Like all aged spirits, it consists

of alcohol (ethanol), water, fatty acids and of

course, aromatic compounds. Without an

affinity of aromas, there can be no pairing.

2Textures and flavors must also resonate

with each other. The alcohol should be

used to underscore the flavors

experienced on the palate. It should not

burn the tongue or the palate, nor should it

create any heavy sensation or vapors on the

nose. High acidity is not compatible with

Cognac’s alcohol and tends to heighten it.

However a tangy character, i.e. a certain balance

between acidity and sweetness, can create a

match, particularly when the Cognac is Frozen

and smooth. Any unpleasant sensations created

by the coming together of alcohol and acidity

are then reduced or eliminated. This effect is

known and respected by bartenders when they

mix cocktails.

In terms of textures, Cognac does not work with

fibrous or dry meat or flesh. It does not enjoy

greater success with potentially spongy textures

such as puff or shortcrust pastry, when associated

with a fatty cream. The result is even more

disappointing with a young Cognac.

3Temperatures are not a major concern.

Although a very hot dish will heighten

the sensation of alcohol by creating

alcohol vapors on the palate, the usual

warm serving temperature of dishes such as a

tarte tatin or pigeon, has a key part in the

success of the pairing. Conversely, cold

temperatures or even freezing, can also be an

ally as they make the Cognac smooth and

eliminate certain strong sensations such as

bitterness or acidity.

l 46

OLD ALLIESSugar is Cognac’s ally! It is even an excellent ally

when it comes to food pairing, because it can

help to reduce the sensation of alcohol on the

palate. This was illustrated by the pairings

created with the fruit and the sweeter vegetables,

and even more so in the chocolate and pâtisserie

workshop, which produced the largest number

of pairings which were rated good, very good

and major! But beware, too much sugar will

overwhelm the Cognac and inhibit its expression.

Bitterness is perfectly compatible with Cognac.

Dark chocolate is the best proof of this, and the

older the Cognac is, the better it pairs. The most

likely reason for this is that Cognac itself

expresses a certain bitterness derived from its

barrel aging.

Salt and Cognac are old friends. They share the

common quality of being flavor enhancers and

their properties have long been associated. It is

therefore not surprising that so many salty

dishes pair extremely well with Cognac.

Umami is Cognac’s universal ally. This fifth flavor

is highly appreciated in Asian cuisine. It is

therefore not surprising to see Cognac so

frequently on the dinner table in the Far East.

This is illustrated by the shiitake mushroom

which even pairs well with the Frozen VS. The

same success was seen with the caviar,

crustaceans, cheese, dried ham and mature or

gamey meats. All these foods, most of which are

fermented or aged, are umami-rich.

Fat is a good ally because it combines with the

alcohol to act as a support and creates an

agreeable texture. However, it can also be an

enemy because, if there is too much water

associated with the fat, it can dilute and

overwhelm the Cognac, even an old one.

Alexandre VINGTIER

A LOGICAL RETURNThe pairing of food and spirits - a new trend in gastronomy? Some might think so, but this would

be showing an ignorance of the history of gastronomy. In fact, spirits, and Cognac in particular, were

often given pride of place in 19th century middle class cuisine. It was not until the late 19th century,

and particularly the early 20th century, that Cognac was pushed aside by wine and beer, confining it

to its role of an “aperitif” drink, before the meal, or a “digestif”, after dinner drink. As we have

shown in our exercise, it is time to reverse this historical trend for good. The unique and complex

character of Cognc can enable the creation of major pairings, whose number is yet to be ascertained,

and whose quality, intensity and variety have surprised even the leading fine food specialists. •

General conclusion

l 47

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Steering committeeMartine NOUET (GB), journalist and spirits expert,

Facilitator of the “Fish, shellfish & crustaceans” workshop. Alexandre VINGTIER (FR), spirits expert,

Facilitator of the “Meat & charcuterie” workshop

FacilitatorsFiona BECKETT (GB), journalist, gastronomy expert,

Facilitator of the “Cheese” workshop.Jean-Charles CHAPUZET (FR), writer, journalist, spirits expert,

Facilitator of the “Pâtisserie & chocolate” workshop.Jean-Louis GALESNE (FR), journalist, gastronomy expert.

Spirits ExpertsHans Wilhelm Apelt (GER), Delikatessenservice Apelt / Deutsche Wein

& Sommelierschule.Vincent Pateux (FR), consultant and trainer.

Lu Yang (China), Shangri-La International Hotel.Marina Shtukina (Russia), Sommelier at “La Marée”

Ralf Zindel (GER), Beratung & Service für Gastronomiebetriebe

Fine food specialistsStéphan Aleaume (FR), Parc Kerber in Cancale.

Nicolas Berhault (FR), Maison Pétrossian.Jennifer Cole-Ruiz (USA), Flex Mussels Group.

Victoire Finaz (FR), “Chocologist”.Georg Gründl (GER), Käseschule Allgäu.

Frédéric Jaunault (FR), Meilleur Ouvrier de France Primeurs 2011.Joachim Lefaure (FR), CQF Dégustation.

Bruno Lopez (FR), “Gourmandise & Chocolat” chocolatier in Gensac-la-Pallue (Charente).Pierre Marcolini (Belgium), créateur-chocolatier.

Arnaud Nicolas (FR), Meilleur Ouvrier de France Charcuterie 2003 – Restaurant “Le Boudoir” in Paris.Armen Pétrossian (FR), Maison Pétrossian.Pierre Pichot (FR) Parc Kerber in Cancale.

Jean-Pierre Rafenaud (FR), “Gourmets Gourmands” association in Cognac.Xavier Thuret (FR), cheesemaker, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2007.

ChefsKen Arnone (USA), Pairing with the Masters.

Huai Cheng Hu (China), Hotel Andaz Shanghai.Martin Lam (GB), Ransome’s Dock Restaurant.

Christophe Mezger (GER), Innside by Melia, Dresden.Fernando Navas (USA), SushiSamba.

Annabel Partidge (GB) Supper in a Pear Tree.Will Torrent (GB), Waitrose consultant, The Pampered Chef, “Pâtisserie at Home”.

PressChristophe Casazza (FR), Gault Millau.

Cécile Cau (FR), Cocktail Spirits.Michel Goldman (USA), “Haute Life Magazine”.

Martin Hao (China), Wine Press.Fabien Humbert (FR), “Revue des Vins de France”, “Nouvel Economiste”.

Alexis Korman (USA), “Wine Enthusiast Magazine”.Laura Lourdas (FR), “Le Verre et la Plume”.

Sophie Menut (FR), “Jamie Oliver Magazine”.Astrid Paul (GER), “Effilee”.

Igor Serdyuk (Russia), “Simple Wine News”.Joe Wadsack (GB), “Best Palate in the UK”.

And alsoNicolas Bichon, “B-Sweet” Boulangerie-Pâtisserie in Verdille.

Karine Joussen & Jean-Christophe Roger, Restaurant “Terminus” in AngoulêmePhilippe Lhomme, Restaurant “Le Cheval Blanc” in Luxé

Christophe Poceiro, Meilleur Torréfacteur de France 2011, café “Le Marignan” in Cognac

And all the Cognac Houses

Photo creditsPhilippe Fuzeau – Pascal Ménard

Printed in France

Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac

23, Allées Bernard Guionnet - BP 90018 - 16100 Cognac Cedex

Tel +33(0)5 45 35 60 00 - Fax +33(0)5 45 82 86 54

www.cognac.fr

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