yazd university principles of garment designtextile.yazd.ac.ir/ms.ahmadi/downloads/garment...

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Principles of

Garment Design

Edited by:

M. S. Ahmadi

Yazd University

Main References

• Art Principles in Clothing, Edith Pankowski & Dallas Pankowski, 1972

• Clothing; fashion, fabric and construction,

Jeanette Weber, 2008.

2Principles of garment design

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What is clothing made up of?

Good fashion has a combination of the

elements and principles of design.


Elements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of Design

••LineLine

••ShapeShape

••ColorColor

••TextureTexture

••SpaceSpace

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Lines خطوطارتباط بين دو يا چند نقطه•

مشخص نمودن و تقسيم نمودن فضا•ايجاد شكل ها و فرم ها•ايجاد حركت•تعيين جهت•


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• Structural & Decorative lines


Straight Lines

• Message

– Forceful, Rigid, Strong, Hard, Formal, Masculine, Crisp, Stiff, Severe

• Illusion

– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces body lines and angles, counters curved lines and rounded body areas

• Placements

– Closures, Necklines, Collars, Lapels, Seamlines, Darts, Tucks, Pleats, Folds, Stripes, Shapes, Silhouettes


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ديگرچند مثال9Principles of garment design

Curved Lines

• Message– Gentle, Romantic, Fragile, Soft, Casual, Feminine, Graceful,

Sensual

• Illusion– Holds attention longer, increases, emphasizes, reinforces

rounded soft-body curves, counter straight lines and angular body areas

• Placements– Fabric pattern, necklines, collars, yokelines, seamlines,

bows, lapels, sleeves, ruffles, skirts, gathers, trims, buttons


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.از خطوط منحني به طور گسترده اي در البسه استفاده مي شود.اين خطوط تمايل دارند تا از خطوط طبيعي شكل بدن تبعيت كنند

.خطوطي كه شكل طبيعي را دنبال مي كنند عموماً زيباتر و دلپذيرتر به نظر مي رسند

كدام يك از طرح هاي فوق دلپذيرتر به نظر مي رسد؟11Principles of garment design


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جهت قوس منحني.خطوطي كه قوس آنها به سمت پايين است احساس شادابي در ذهن ايجاد مي كنند

شانه ها را . خطوط منحني با قوس به سمت باال احساس غمگيني را منتقل مي كننداين خطوط بايد با دقت بااليي .گرد و بخش هاي زير قوس را بزرگ جلوه مي دهند

.در البسه به كار گرفته شوند


However, a garment designed with only straight lines is too severe;

a garment with all curves is too unstable. For optimal beauty, the

two should work together. Straight lines are softened by the curves

of the body, and full curves must be restrained to be compatible

with the human form.

However, a garment designed with only straight lines is too severe;

a garment with all curves is too unstable. For optimal beauty, the

two should work together. Straight lines are softened by the curves

of the body, and full curves must be restrained to be compatible

with the human form.


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Line Direction

The direction that the line falls affects the

design, message and illusion drastically.


Line directions can be compared to the human body when

standing,sleeping, and running.


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Vertical Lines

• Message

– Formal, strong, dignified, stiff, business-like, stately, conservative, grandious, majestic, efficient

• Illusion

– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces length, height, narrowness, thinness– slimming, counters horizontal lines

• Placement

– Deep v-necklines, pointed collars, narrow lapels, narrow panels or gores, fabric insets, lengthwise grainline, vertical stripes, darts, tucks, pleats, folds, crease, zippers, row of buttons, pockets, ties, neckties, long sleeves, high heels



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Horizontal lines

• Message

– Restful, stable, calm, relaxed, casual, quiet, serene, in repose, lethargic

• Illusion

– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces width, bulk, shortness, counters vertical lines, when placed high appears taller, when placed low appears shorter

• Placement

– Necklines, flat collars, bow ties, yoke lines, horizontal stripes, belts, cuffs, waistline, sashes, patch/flap pockets, wide-set double-breasted closure, strap shoes, platform shoes, wide-brimmed hat


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Diagonal

• Message– Active, movement, instability, excitement, interesting,

dramatic, restless, sophisticated, in motion, vitality

• Illusion– Increases, emphasizes, reinforces the direction of the

dominant angle, counters vertical and horizontal lines

• Placement– V-shaped neckline, open collar, lapels, raglan sleeve

seamlines, French darts, closures, surplice closure, row of buttons, fabric inset, diagonal stripes, gores, herringbone pattern, zigzag pattern, A-line skirt, flared skirt or pants, shoe laces crisscross straps

.خطوط مايل اثر جواني و جنب و جوش، بي قراري و هيجان را القا مي كنند



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در اين . استفاده خيلي زياد از زاويه هاي تند در طراحي نامطلوب است•

موارد الزم است تا از حالت متعادل كننده ناشي از خطوط ديگر استفاده

.نمود

خطوطي كه در يك طرح بيشتر مورد استفاده قرار مي گيرند، خطوط غالب •

.ناميده مي شوند


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استفاده تنها از يك جهت خط، ايجاد طرحي يكنواخت و غير .جذاب مي كند

استفاده از خطوطي ديگر با درجه اهميت كمتر براي ايجاد تنوع و .افزايش جذابيت الزم است


Optical illusion


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.خط با مدت زماني كه چشم بر رزي آن تمركز مي كند مرتبط است قدرت.خط غالب در طرح داراي قدرت بيشتري است

.خط با هم بر ايجاد خطاي ديد تأثير مي گذارند قدرتو طولهرچه طول خط عمودي بلندتر بوده و به لحاظ ظاهري قدرت بيشتري داشته باشد تأثير بيشتري بر

.بلند نشان دادن فرد دارد


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تضاد طول و قدرت


تقابلتقابل انتقالانتقال تابشتابش

آرايش خطوطآرايش خطوط


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با ديدن خطوط تابشي چشم چشم در يك لحظه در راستاهاي مختلف حركت مي كند اما .همواره به محور مركزي باز مي گردد

.خطوط تابشي داراي اثر جنبش مي باشند34Principles of garment design

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Portfolio Assignment

• Create 3 portfolio pages

– Straight Line, Curved Line, Diagonal Line

• Address the following in the paragraph:

– What lines are found in the picture?

– Where are the lines found?

– Are the lines structural or decorative?

– What is the illusion and message associated with the described lines.


What is good and bad

about the design?


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Shapes/Forms

They describe the outer

dimensions or contour of

objects. Shapes also enclose

space and impart a certain

character to the objects viewed.

Shape is a flat two-dimensional

area enclosed by lines

Form is a three-dimensional

area enclosed by a surface

They describe the outer

dimensions or contour of

objects. Shapes also enclose

space and impart a certain

character to the objects viewed.

Shape is a flat two-dimensional

area enclosed by lines

Form is a three-dimensional

area enclosed by a surface

فرم ها/شكل ها


Type of shapes and forms

1. Equal sided

a. Shapes – Square, circle, equilateral triangle,

pentagon, hexagon, octagon, diamond, marquis, ogive,

Star

b. Forms – sphere, cube


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2. Unequal sided

a. Shapes – oval, scalene and isosceles triangle,

rectangle, parallelogram, trapezoid, heart, teardrop,

paisley, club, spade, pear, kidney

b. Forms – tube, cylinder, cone, pyramid, rectangular

box, bell, dome, ovoid, egg, hourglass, trumpet, barrel


Attributes of Shape and FormAttributes of Shape and Form

Shapes project the moods of the types and directions of lines enclosing

them and the space within them.

1. Stable and confident – rectangles, squares

2. Less stable but more dynamic – triangles, pentagons, hexagons,

octagons, trapezoids, parallelograms, cones, and pyramids

3. Visually interesting – unequal proportions

4. Less visually interest – equal proportions, circle, square, sphere, cube

5. Security – shapes that fit together tightly, squares, hexagons, ogives,

diamonds, triangles, paisleys, parallelograms, rectangles

6. Variety – shapes that leave spaces, octagon, star, circle, etc.


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Basic shapesBasic shapes

In dress designing there are seven basic shapes — each

season adaptations of one or more of these

predominates the fashion picture.

1. Rectangle

Examples: Long, straight, hanging in loose, graceful

folds, such as in Greek and Roman styles; straight

line sheaths; tailored suits. Styles with these lines

are slenderizing and suitable for the well

proportioned, heavier woman.


2. Triangle

Examples: Spanish styles. Fitted bodice,

bell shaped gently widening skirt.

3. Inverted Triangle

Examples: Wide shoulders, narrow skirt,

dolman or raglan sleeves. Good fashion

design style for large bust.


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4. Oval

Examples: Draped and softly molded, very

feminine and decorative. Good for well

proportioned, ideal figure. Suitable

especially for afternoon and evening wear.

5. Square

Examples: Straight or boat shaped

neckline, boxy jackets, capes. Generally

this style is very good for the very thin

figure, however, with proportions well

planned and good design, can camouflage

various figure irregularities.


6. Round

Examples: Wide, crinoline lined skirts, petal

shapes, puffed sleeves. Suitable for formal

wear or afternoon frocks. This fashion

design is the most attractive on the very

young and the very thin figure.

7. Hourglass

Examples: Wide shoulders, leg of mutton

sleeves. Natural or wasp waist.

Smooth fit over hips and full skirt at

bottom. Good fashion design for the tall,

thin figure.

* Combinations


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(repetition)تكرار •

(contrast)تضاد •

(transition)انتقال •



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.براي ايجاد يكپارچگي استفاده شده است.......... در اين شكل از

هنگامي كه دو شكل متضاد يا نامرتبط با هم در طرح قرار مي گيرند، هر كدام تمايل . دارند تا توجه را به ديگري جلب كند

.از شكل هاي متضاد هنگامي كه تأثيرات عميق و قوي مد نظر است استفاده مي شود



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:اصل راهنما در انتخاب و طراحي يك لباس

طراحي يك لباس بايد متشكل از اشكال و اندازه هايي باشند كه هم به نوبه خود

.خوشايند بوده و هم زيبايي شخص پوشنده لباس را ارتقاء بخشد


بيضي گرد كشيده مثلثي مربعي


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yazd university principles of garment designtextile.yazd.ac.ir/ms.ahmadi/downloads/garment...

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