Yazd University Principles of Garment Desig2013-09-159/14/2013 2 What is clothing made up of? Good fashion has a combination of the elementsand principlesof design. Principles of garment design 3 Elements of Design Line Shape Color Texture Space

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9/14/20131Principles of Garment DesignEdited by:M. S. AhmadiYazd UniversityMain References Art Principles in Clothing, Edith Pankowski & Dallas Pankowski, 1972 Clothing; fashion, fabric and construction, Jeanette Weber, 2008.2Principles of garment design 9/14/20132What is clothing made up of?Good fashion has a combination of the elements and principles of design.3Principles of garment design Elements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignElements of DesignLineLineShapeShapeColorColorTextureTextureSpaceSpace9/14/201335Principles of garment design Lines 6Principles of garment design 9/14/20134 Structural & Decorative lines7Principles of garment design Straight Lines Message Forceful, Rigid, Strong, Hard, Formal, Masculine, Crisp, Stiff, Severe Illusion Increases, emphasizes, reinforces body lines and angles, counters curved lines and rounded body areas Placements Closures, Necklines, Collars, Lapels, Seamlines, Darts, Tucks, Pleats, Folds, Stripes, Shapes, Silhouettes8Principles of garment design 9/14/20135 9Principles of garment design Curved Lines Message Gentle, Romantic, Fragile, Soft, Casual, Feminine, Graceful, Sensual Illusion Holds attention longer, increases, emphasizes, reinforces rounded soft-body curves, counter straight lines and angular body areas Placements Fabric pattern, necklines, collars, yokelines, seamlines, bows, lapels, sleeves, ruffles, skirts, gathers, trims, buttons10Principles of garment design 9/14/20136. . . 11Principles of garment design 12Principles of garment design 9/14/20137 . . . . 13Principles of garment design However, a garment designed with only straight lines is too severe; a garment with all curves is too unstable. For optimal beauty, the two should work together. Straight lines are softened by the curves of the body, and full curves must be restrained to be compatible with the human form. However, a garment designed with only straight lines is too severe; a garment with all curves is too unstable. For optimal beauty, the two should work together. Straight lines are softened by the curves of the body, and full curves must be restrained to be compatible with the human form. 14Principles of garment design 9/14/20138Line DirectionThe direction that the line falls affects the design, message and illusion drastically.15Principles of garment design Line directions can be compared to the human body when standing,sleeping, and running. 16Principles of garment design 9/14/20139Vertical Lines Message Formal, strong, dignified, stiff, business-like, stately, conservative, grandious, majestic, efficient Illusion Increases, emphasizes, reinforces length, height, narrowness, thinness slimming, counters horizontal lines Placement Deep v-necklines, pointed collars, narrow lapels, narrow panels or gores, fabric insets, lengthwise grainline, vertical stripes, darts, tucks, pleats, folds, crease, zippers, row of buttons, pockets, ties, neckties, long sleeves, high heels17Principles of garment design 18Principles of garment design 9/14/20131019Principles of garment design Horizontal lines Message Restful, stable, calm, relaxed, casual, quiet, serene, in repose, lethargic Illusion Increases, emphasizes, reinforces width, bulk, shortness, counters vertical lines, when placed high appears taller, when placed low appears shorter Placement Necklines, flat collars, bow ties, yoke lines, horizontal stripes, belts, cuffs, waistline, sashes, patch/flap pockets, wide-set double-breasted closure, strap shoes, platform shoes, wide-brimmed hat20Principles of garment design 9/14/20131121Principles of garment design 22Principles of garment design 9/14/201312Diagonal Message Active, movement, instability, excitement, interesting, dramatic, restless, sophisticated, in motion, vitality Illusion Increases, emphasizes, reinforces the direction of the dominant angle, counters vertical and horizontal lines Placement V-shaped neckline, open collar, lapels, raglan sleeve seamlines, French darts, closures, surplice closure, row of buttons, fabric inset, diagonal stripes, gores, herringbone pattern, zigzag pattern, A-line skirt, flared skirt or pants, shoe laces crisscross straps. 23Principles of garment design 24Principles of garment design 9/14/20131325Principles of garment design . . . 26Principles of garment design 9/14/201314 . . 27Principles of garment design Optical illusion28Principles of garment design 9/14/20131529Principles of garment design . . . . 30Principles of garment design 9/14/201316 31Principles of garment design 32Principles of garment design 9/14/20131733Principles of garment design . . 34Principles of garment design 9/14/20131835Principles of garment design 36Principles of garment design 9/14/20131937Principles of garment design 38Principles of garment design 9/14/201320Portfolio Assignment Create 3 portfolio pages Straight Line, Curved Line, Diagonal Line Address the following in the paragraph: What lines are found in the picture? Where are the lines found? Are the lines structural or decorative? What is the illusion and message associated with the described lines.39Principles of garment design What is good and bad about the design?40Principles of garment design 9/14/201321Shapes/FormsThey describe the outer dimensions or contour of objects. Shapes also enclose space and impart a certain character to the objects viewed.Shape is a flat two-dimensional area enclosed by linesForm is a three-dimensional area enclosed by a surfaceThey describe the outer dimensions or contour of objects. Shapes also enclose space and impart a certain character to the objects viewed.Shape is a flat two-dimensional area enclosed by linesForm is a three-dimensional area enclosed by a surface / 41Principles of garment design Type of shapes and forms1. Equal sideda. Shapes Square, circle, equilateral triangle,pentagon, hexagon, octagon, diamond, marquis, ogive,Starb. Forms sphere, cube42Principles of garment design 9/14/2013222. Unequal sideda. Shapes oval, scalene and isosceles triangle,rectangle, parallelogram, trapezoid, heart, teardrop,paisley, club, spade, pear, kidneyb. Forms tube, cylinder, cone, pyramid, rectangularbox, bell, dome, ovoid, egg, hourglass, trumpet, barrel43Principles of garment design Attributes of Shape and FormAttributes of Shape and FormShapes project the moods of the types and directions of lines enclosingthem and the space within them.1. Stable and confident rectangles, squares2. Less stable but more dynamic triangles, pentagons, hexagons,octagons, trapezoids, parallelograms, cones, and pyramids3. Visually interesting unequal proportions4. Less visually interest equal proportions, circle, square, sphere, cube5. Security shapes that fit together tightly, squares, hexagons, ogives,diamonds, triangles, paisleys, parallelograms, rectangles6. Variety shapes that leave spaces, octagon, star, circle, etc.44Principles of garment design 9/14/201323Basic shapesBasic shapesIn dress designing there are seven basic shapes each season adaptations of one or more of these predominates the fashion picture.1. RectangleExamples: Long, straight, hanging in loose, graceful folds, such as in Greek and Roman styles; straight line sheaths; tailored suits. Styles with these lines are slenderizing and suitable for the well proportioned, heavier woman.45Principles of garment design 2. TriangleExamples: Spanish styles. Fitted bodice, bell shaped gently widening skirt.3. Inverted TriangleExamples: Wide shoulders, narrow skirt, dolman or raglan sleeves. Good fashion design style for large bust.46Principles of garment design 9/14/2013244. OvalExamples: Draped and softly molded, very feminine and decorative. Good for well proportioned, ideal figure. Suitable especially for afternoon and evening wear.5. SquareExamples: Straight or boat shaped neckline, boxy jackets, capes. Generally this style is very good for the very thin figure, however, with proportions well planned and good design, can camouflage various figure irregularities.47Principles of garment design 6. RoundExamples: Wide, crinoline lined skirts, petal shapes, puffed sleeves. Suitable for formal wear or afternoon frocks. This fashion design is the most attractive on the very young and the very thin figure.7. HourglassExamples: Wide shoulders, leg of mutton sleeves. Natural or wasp waist. Smooth fit over hips and full skirt at bottom. Good fashion design for the tall, thin figure.* Combinations48Principles of garment design 9/14/201325(repetition) (contrast) (transition) 49Principles of garment design 50Principles of garment design 9/14/201326. .......... . . 51Principles of garment design 52Principles of garment design 9/14/201327: . 53Principles of garment design 54Principles of garment design 9/14/20132855Principles of garment design 56Principles of garment design 9/14/20132957Principles of garment design 58Principles of garment design 9/14/20133059Principles of garment design 60Principles of garment design 9/14/20133161Principles of garment design 62Principles of garment design 9/14/20133263Principles of garment design

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