wrinkle free.pdf

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A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF LIGHT WEIGHT 100% COTTON PLAIN FABRIC HO LONG YI BA (Hons) Scheme in Fashion and Textiles (Fashion Technology Specialism) INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES & CLOTHING THE HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY 2012

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Page 1: Wrinkle free.pdf

A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF

LIGHT WEIGHT 100% COTTON PLAIN FABRIC

HO LONG YI

BA (Hons) Scheme in Fashion and Textiles

(Fashion Technology Specialism)

INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES & CLOTHING

THE HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY

2012

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A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF

LIGHT WEIGHT 100% COTTON PLAIN FABRIC

A Thesis Submitted

in Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements

for the Degree of

Bachelor of Arts (Honours)

in

Fashion & Textiles

(Fashion Technology Specialism)

under the Supervision of

Dr.C. H. Chui

by

HO LONG YI

Institute of Textiles & Clothing

The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

May 2012

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I

Acknowledgement

I would like to express my gratitude to my supervisor Dr.C. H.

Chui, Assistant Professor of the Institute of Textiles and

Clothing at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, for his

constant guidance, advice and sustained interest throughout

the whole period of my final year project. He kindly gave his

time to assist me for the project and immediate help would be

provided when I face difficulties throughout the whole period.

Special thanks are given to Dr. C.W. Kan, Assistant Professor

of the Institute of Textiles and Clothing at The Hong Kong

Polytechnic University for his additional guidance related to

wrinkle property.

Heartfelt thanks are sent to laboratory technicians of the

Institute of Textiles and Clothing for their kindly help,

valuable advice and guidance in operating the laboratory

equipment.

The last but not the least, the greatest thanks are expressed

to my family, classmates and friends for their unlimited

support and encouragement at the critical monument.

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II

AUTHORIZATION

I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and that,

to the best of my knowledge and belief, it reproduces no

material previously published or written, nor material

that has been accepted for the award of any other degree

or diploma, except where due acknowledgement had been

made in the text.

__________________________________________(Signed)

_________________________________________(Name of student)

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III

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wrinkle

resistant of light weight 100% cotton plain woven fabric with

resin treatment of different conditions. Cotton plain woven

fabric has high tendency to form crease and wrinkle. It is a

problem in the garment industry as light weight cotton fabric

would usually be applied in manufacturing shirt.

Apart from wrinkle property, the effect of wrinkle treatment

towards the tearing strength and dimensional stability would

also be studied.

In this project, experimental investigation would be conducted

to assess the anti-wrinkle performance of the resin treated

cotton plain fabric. The study is in two parts. The first part

is to apply different resin treatment perimeters on the light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric. The perimeters include

different resin concentration (30g/L, 45g/L, 60g/L), pick-up

ratio (60%, 70%, 80%), drying temperature (110℃, 120℃) and

curing time (2mins, 2.5mins, 3mins). The second part is to

evaluate the wrinkle properties, as well as tearing strength

and dimensional stability of the resin treated fabric with

different perimeters by related standard testing.

Meanwhile, the effect of different perimeters towards the

performances of the light weight cotton plain fabric would be

studied and compared.

Finally, general conclusion and recommendation would be drawn

based on the testing result and overall performance of the

fabric.

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IV

Content

Page

Acknowledgment I

Authorization II

Abstract III

Content IV

List of Table XIII

List of Figures XIV

Chapter 1 Introduction

1.1 Background of Study 1

1.2 Objective 1

1.3 Scope of Study 2

1.4 Methodology 3

1.5 Significance of study 4

1.6 Chapter Summary 4

Chapter2 Literature Review

2.1 Introduction 7

2.2 Cotton 7

2.2.1 Introduction 7

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V

2.2.2 History 8

2.2.3 Physical Structure of cotton 8

2.2.3.1 Fiber length and fineness 8

2.2.3.2 Morphology 9

2.2.3.3 Color 11

2.2.4 Chemical Properties of cotton 12

2.2.4.1 Chemical Structure 12

2.2.4.2 Absorbency and moisture regain 13

2.2.4.3 Wrinkle Property 13

2.2.4.4 Thermal Degradation 14

2.2.4.5 Acid Degradation 15

2.2.5 Mechanical Properties of cotton 15

2.2.5.1 Strength 15

2.2.5.2 Dimensional stability 16

2.3 Light weight plain woven fabric 16

2.3.1 Woven fabric 17

2.3.2 Plain weaving 18

2.3.3 Light weight fabric 20

2.4 Wrinkle 21

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2.4.1 Principle of crease formation 21

2.4.2 Mechanism of Wrinkle Resistance 22

2.4.3 Historical development of

traditional resin 24

2.4.4 Dystar Resin modified (DMDHEU) 25

2.4.5 Pad-Dry-Cure and resin 31

2.4.6 Other anti-wrinkle technology 34

2.4.6.1 Urea-formaldehyde (U/F) 34

2.4.6.2 Melamine-formaldehyde (M/F) 35

2.4.6.3 N, N’-Dimethyl- 4,

5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU) 37

2.4.6.4 1,2,3,4-Butantetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)40

2.5 Conclusion 42

Chapter 3 Methodology and Experiment

3.1 Introduction 43

3.2 Fabric specification 43

3.3 Parameter of experiment 44

3.4 Application on fabric resin treatment 44

3.4.1 Preparation for Resin 44

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VIII

3.4.2 Padding 45

3.4.3 Drying 46

3.4.4 Curing 47

3.5 Standard Testing and Measurement 48

3.5.1 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:

Recovery Angle (AATCC 66) 48

3.5.1.1 Introduction 48

3.5.1.2 Principle 49

3.5.1.3 Apparatus and Materials 49

3.5.1.4 Sample Preparation 50

3.5.1.5 Procedure 51

3.5.1.6 Evaluation 52

3.5.2 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance

Method (AATCC 128) 52

3.5.2.1 Introduction 52

3.5.2.2 Principle 53

3.5.2.3 Apparatus and Materials 53

3.5.2.4 Sample Preparation 54

3.5.2.5 Experimental Procedure 55

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VIII

3.5.2.6 Evaluation 56

3.5.3 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after

Repeated Home Laundering (AATCC 124) 56

3.5.3.1 Introduction 56

3.5.3.2 Principle 57

3.5.3.3 Apparatus and Materials 57

3.5.3.4 Sample Preparation 58

3.5.3.5 Procedure 58

3.5.4 Determination of tear force using

ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf)

(BS EN ISO 13937-1) 59

3.5.4.1 Introduction 59

3.5.4.2 Principle 59

3.5.4.3 Apparatus and Materials 60

3.5.4.4 Sample Preparation 61

3.5.4.5 Procedure 61

3.5.5 Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens

(Single tear method)(BS EN ISO 13937-2) 61

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IX

3.5.5.1 Introduction 61

3.5.5.1 Introduction 61

3.5.5.2 Principle 62

3.5.5.3 Apparatus and Materials 62

3.5.5.4 Sample Preparation 64

3.5.5.5 Procedure 64

3.5.6 Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted

Fabrics 64

3.5.6.1 Introduction 64

3.5.6.2 Principle 65

3.5.6.3 Apparatus and Materials 65

3.5.6.4 Sample Preparation 66

3.5.6.5 Procedure 66

Chapter 4 Wrinkle Properties of Cotton Fabric

Except Wool (AATCC 96)

4.1 AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery

Of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle 67

4.1.1 Introduction 67

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X

4.1.2 Result 67

4.1.3 Discussion 69

4.1.4 Conclusion 74

4.2 AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery

of Fabrics: Appearance Method 75

4.2.1 Introduction 75

4.2.2 Result 76

4.2.3 Discussion 77

4.2.4 Conclusion 84

4.3 AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness

Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated

Home Laundering 85

4.3.1 Introduction 85

4.3.2 Result 86

4.3.3 Discussion 87

4.3.4 Conclusion 94

Chapter 5 Tearing Properties of Cotton Fabric

5.1 Determination of tear force using

ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf)

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(BS EN ISO 13937-1) 97

5.1.1 Introduction 97

5.1.2 Result 98

5.1.3 Discussion 99

5.1.4 Conclusion 106

5.2 Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens

(Single tear method)

(BS EN ISO 13937-2) 107

5.2.1 Introduction 107

5.2.2 Result 107

5.2.3 Discussion 109

5.2.4 Conclusion 116

Chapter 6 Dimensional Stability

6.1 Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted

Fabrics Except Wool (AATCC 96) 118

6.1.1 Introduction 118

6.1.2 Result 119

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XII

6.1.3 Discussion 120

6.1.4 Conclusion 130

Chapter 7 Conclusion and Recommendation

7.1 General Conclusion 132

7.2 Recommendation 135

Reference

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XIII

List of Table

Table 2-1 Properties of Evo Pret RCI-H

Table 3-1 Fabric specification

Table 3-2 Treatment parameter

Table 3-3 Resin chemical recipe

Table 3-4 Summary for the using of the Horizontal padder

Table 4-1 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Table 4-2 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Table 4-3 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Table 5-1 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Table 5-2 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Table 6-1 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

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XIV

List of Figures

Fig2-1 Layers of cellulose (Cotton Incorporated,2012)

Fig2-2 Convolutions of Cotton Fiber (Cotton

Incorporated,2012)

Fig 2-3 Chemical Structure of Cellulose (Cotton

Incorporated,2012)

Fig2-4 Cellulose Degradation cotton by H+ ion (Lam, 2011)

Fig 2-5 Plain weaving (Kadolph, 1998)

Fig 2-6 Resin crosslinking (Kadolph, 1998)

Fig 2-7 Evo Pret RCI-H

Fig 2-8 Crosslinking of cellulose with DMDHEU (Hauser,

2004)

Fig 2-9 Synthesis of DMDHEU, (Hauser, 2004)

Fig 2-10 Dimethylol urea reactions (Hauser, 2004)

Fig 2-11 Melamine-formaldehyde reactions (Hauser, 2004)

Fig 2-12 Synthesis of DMeDHEU (Hauser, 2004)

Fig 2-13 Crosslinking of cellulose with DMeDHEU (Hauser,

2004)

Fig 2-14 The activation mechanism of BTCA (Hauser, 2004)

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XV

Fig 2-15 Crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA (Hauser,

2004)

Fig3-1 Horizontal padder

Fig3-2 Drying oven

Fig3-3 Curing Machine

Fig3-4 Apparatus for AATCC 66

Fig3-5 AATCC Wrinkle Tester

Fig 3-6 Washing machine and tumble dryer for AATCC 124

Fig 3-7 Pendulum testing machine with electronic device

Fig 3-8 Weight used for the pendulum testing machine for

the cotton specimens

Fig 3-9 Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine

Fig 3-10 Software for running the CRE machine

Fig 3-11 Software for running the CRE machine

Fig 3-12 Washing machine and tumble dryer for AATCC 124

Fig 4-1 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery angle

Fig 4-2 Relationship between pick-up ratio and wrinkle

recovery angle

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XVI

Fig 4-3 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

recovery angle

Fig 4-4 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery angle

Fig 4-5 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery rating 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

Fig4-6 Relationship between pick-up ratio and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

Fig4-7 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

Fig 4-8 Relationship between drying temperature and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

Fig 4-9 Relationship between the number of laundering and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

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XVII

Fig 4-10 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

Fig 4-11 Relationship between pick-up ratio and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

Fig 4-12 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

Fig 4-13 Relationship between drying temperature and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

Fig 5-1 Relationship between warp and weft in tearing

resistance

Fig 5-2 Relationship between drying temperature and

tearing resistance

Fig 5-3 Relationship between curing time and tearing

resistance

Fig 5-4 Relationship between resin level and tearing

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XVIII

resistance

Fig 5-5 Relationship between pick-up ratio and tearing

resistance

Fig 5-6 Relationship between warp and weft in tearing

resistance

Fig 5-7 Relationship between drying temperature and

tearing resistance

Fig 5-8 Relationship between curing time and tearing

resistance

Fig 5-9 Relationship between resin level and tearing

resistance

Fig 5-10 Relationship between pick-up ratio and tearing

resistance

Fig 6-1 Relationship between warp and weft with %

dimensional change

Fig 6-2 Relationship between number of laundering and

dimensional change

Fig 6-3 Relationship between resin level and dimensional

change

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XIX

Fig 6-4 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

dimensional change

Fig 6-5 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

dimensional change

Fig 6-6 Relationship between curing time and dimensional

change

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1

Chapter 1 Introduction

1.1 Background of Study

100% cotton light weight plain fabric is commonly applied

on the making shirt in the garment industry. However,

cotton light weight fabric forms wrinkle easily. As a

shirting fabric, this is not preferable. In order to

tackle this problem, many anti-wrinkle treatments have

been developed to improve the wrinkle property. Resin

treatment is one of it. Resin is widely used in cotton

fabric as a wrinkle free chemical.

On reality, Resin treatment is only enhancing the wrinkle

property, but also reducing the tearing strength at the

same time.

1.2 Objective

There are three objectives for the study. The first one

is to study the anti-wrinkle effect of the resin when

being applied on the 100% cotton light weight plain

fabric under different treating conditions. The second

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2

one is to study the effect of the mechanical property of

the treated fabric. The third one is to optimize the

effect of resin treatment’s perimeter to product better

effect on light weight 100% cotton plain fabric.

1.3 Scope of Study

The study is in two parts. The first part is to apply

different resin treatment perimeters on the light weight

100% cotton plain fabric. The perimeters include

different resin concentration (30g/L, 45g/L, 60g/L),

pick-up ratio (60%, 70%, 80%), drying temperature (110℃,

120℃) and curing time (2mins, 2.5mins, 3mins).

The samples generated would then be used for the second

part of the study. The second part of the study is to

evaluate the anti-wrinkle property and mechanical

property of different samples by standard testing. For

anti-wrinkle effect, AATCC 66 (Wrinkle Recovery of Woven

Fabrics: Recovery Angle), AATCC 124 (Smoothness

Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering) and

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AATCC 128 (Wrinkle Recovery of: Appearance Method) would

be adopted for the evaluations. For the changes in

mechanical properties, BS EN ISO 13937-1 (Determination

of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf))

and EN ISO 13937-2 (Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)) would

be adopted for the evaluations.

1.4 Methodology

For achieving the objectives of the study, the following

methodologies have been adopted in this research.

1. Literature reviews would be conducted for acquiring

background knowledge in this field and the latest

development in the related area.

2. Resin treatment would be applied to the on light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric with the different

perimeters by Pad-Dry-Cure method,

3. International standards such as AATCC and ISO test

methods would be adopted for evaluation and comparison.

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4. Conclusion would be summarized and recommendation

would be drawn.

1.5 Significance of study

This study aims at improving the wrinkle resistant

performance of light weight cotton plain fabric. The

importance of applying resin treatment in anti-wrinkle

would be studied. Moreover, the effect of treatment

conditions, such as curing time, resin level and pick-up

ratio to the performance of the fabric would be

investigated.

1.6 Chapter Summary

This thesis comprises of seven chapters.

In chapter 1, the background, objectives, scopes,

methodology and significance of this research will be

introduced.

In Chapter 2, relevant literature reviews will be

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conducted. It would be focused on the cotton fiber and

its molecular structure, the plain weaving structure and

the development and application of anti-wrinkle

technology in textile industry. Meanwhile, the

relationship between the cotton fiber and weaving

structure to the wrinkle performance would be studied.

In Chapter 3, the fabric specification and different

perimeters to apply the resin treatment would be covered.

The details for Pad-Dry Cure method and the relevant

standard testing would be discussed

In Chapter 4, the wrinkle properties of the cotton fabric

would be evaluated and discussed based on the result of

the standard testing.

Chapter 5 would cover the tearing strength of the resin

treated fabric and investigation would be carried to

evaluate the effect of the treated conditions towards the

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change in tearing performance.

Chapter 6 would cover the dimensional changes of the

resin treated fabric and investigate the contribution of

different factors towards the dimensional stability.

Chapter 7 is the general conclusion of this study.

Recommendations would be provided for further study.

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Chapter2 Literature Review

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Cotton

2.2.1 Introduction

Cotton is a natural vegetable fiber. It is cellulose

fiber as it is from plant and is organic compound. Cotton

has been used for making garment for over 5000 years and

is still the most important fiber in today’s industry.

The cotton fiber is popular because of it attractive

properties such as pleasing appearance, comfortably and

good moisture performance are the reason for the

popularity of the cotton. Cotton could be applied not

only on sportswear, casual wear and business wear, but

also draperies, towels, furniture and bedding. The wide

application of cotton is making it to be the most

important fiber of the world. In 2007, cotton accounts

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for about 40 percent of total world fiber production.

(United States Department of Agriculture, 2009) (National

Cotton Council, 2007)

2.2.2 History

Cotton has long been applied in garment. There is

historical finding that Cotton had been cultivated in the

7,000 years ago (B.C 5000) in Pakistan. Cotton

cultivation was then widespread to a huge swath of the

northwestern part of the South Asia, and finally, the

whole world. The cotton industry at that time was well

developed and some methods were still used in cotton

spinning and fabrication continued to be used until the

modern industrialization. (Kadolph ,1998)

2.2.3 Physical Structure of cotton

2.2.3.1 Fiber length and fineness

Cotton is fine staple fiber. The length of cotton fiber

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varies from 16mm to 52mm depending by the species. The

longer the staple fiber length, the higher the quality of

the cotton fiber is. It is because the length of the

fiber could affect the handling of the cotton and the

tensile strength. Longer cotton fiber is able to make

finer and stronger yarns. Moreover, the fabric product

made by longer cotton staple fiber is softer, smoother

and more lustrous.

The fineness of cotton fiber generally varies from 1.1 to

2.3 decitex depending by the species. However, the

maturity level of the cotton would also affect the

fineness. (Tortora 1997)

2.2.3.2 Morphology

Cotton is cellulose fiber. Majority of its contain is

cellulose, and the rest are water, waxes and fats. Since

there is different in density of the layers deposited at

night and day, growth ring is result on the cross section

of the cotton fiber. The cross-section of cotton fiber is

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in kidney shape. (Hearle, 2007)

Cotton fiber is made up of a cuticle, primary wall,

secondary wall and lumen. Cuticle is the waxy like file

covering the primary wall. Layers of cellulose are

deposited on the inside of the thin, waxy primary wall.

Lumen is the central canal.

Fig2-1 Layers of cellulose (Cotton Incorporated,2012)

The longitude structure of cotton under microscope is

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fine regular fiber with convolutions looking like a

twisted ribbon. It is because the cellulose layers are

composed of spirally arranged fibrils, which are the

bundles of cellulose chains.

Fig2-2 Convolutions of Cotton Fiber (Cotton

Incorporated,2012)

2.2.3.3 Color

Cotton fiber is usually in white to tan in color. There

some rare cotton fiber which are naturally in brown, tan

and green colors. Meanwhile, cotton could be colored by

dyeing and printing to meet the fashion and customer

needs. (Tortora 1997)

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2.2.4 Chemical Properties of cotton

2.2.4.1 Chemical Structure

Cotton is cellulose fiber. In finished cotton fabric, the

cellulose content could be up to 99%. It contains carbon,

hydrogen, oxygen with reactive hydroxyl (OH) group.

Cotton has about 70% crystalline region and 30% amorphous

region. The cellulose polymers in cotton fiber have high

degree of polymerization. The basic unit of cellulose

molecule is glucose. The cellulose molecule is long

linear chain. The length of chain is a factor affecting

fiber strength. (Tortora 1997) The repeating unit of

cotton cellulose is as shown.

Fig 2-3 Chemical Structure of Cellulose (Cotton

Incorporated, 2012)

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The chemical reactivity of cotton cellulose is highly

related to the hydroxyl (-OH) groups. The groups attract

water and dye and making cotton fiber water absorptive

and easy to dye.

2.2.4.2 Absorbency and moisture regain

The hydroxyl (-OH) groups in the cellulose chain makes

cotton an absorbent fiber. Cotton is hydrophilic and has

high moisture regain property, which is usually 7% to 8 %

under standard condition or up to 60% at the very humid

condition. When wetted, it strength would increase by

about 10 %. Cotton fiber is comfortable as it can adsorb

moisture away from human body and aid evaporation and

cooling. It also has good conductivity and is able to

allow heat to dissipate. (Hsieh, 2007)

2.2.4.3 Wrinkle Property

The last but not the least, cotton has very poor wrinkle

resistance and recovery from deformations. It is because

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the relocation of the bonding between the fiber. This

part would be further discussed in the part related to

wrinkle formation.

2.2.4.4 Thermal Degradation

High temperature causes dehydration and decomposition of

cellulose. Moistures in cellulose fiber would be driven

off at 120°C. At 150°C, the molecular weight and tensile

strength would start to be lowered. When the heating is

up to 200°C, volatile products would start to be evolved.

Heating below 250°C would affect the amorphous regions

only. The crystalline regions would be affected with

significant reduction when the heating is up to 250°C. At

300°C, the disappearance of crystalline structure would

even occur. when further heating to 300°C. At 450°C,

there would be only char remained. (Shafizadeh, F., 1985)

(Bilales, N. M. ,1971)

It is the thermal degradation of cellulose. Therefore,

the high temperature would reduce the strength of the

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cotton fiber.

2.2.4.5 Acid Degradation

Cotton is sensitive to the damage of acid, especially

concentrated acids. The glycosidic bond in cellulose

fiber would be split by the action of H+ ion of acid.

Fig2-4 Cellulose Degradation cotton by H+ ion (Lam, 2011)

2.2.5 Mechanical Properties of Cotton

2.2.5.1 Strength

When comparing with other cellulose fiber such as flax

and rayon, cotton is relatively weaker. Cotton strength

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is at medium level. The strength of cotton is about 3.0

to 4.9 g/d. Even though cotton has high degree of

crystallinity, the crystalline region is in low

orientation. The strength of cotton would increase when

the polymer length increase within the chains. Cotton is

yet strong enough and able to spin to fine yarn and light

weight fabric.

2.2.5.2 Dimensional stability

Cotton fiber would swell when contacted with water.

Because of the swelling, untreated cotton fabric is not

stable in dimension. It would shrink for the first few

time of laundering. Shrinkage is the reduction in size of

product. It is a frequent problem in cotton garment.

2.3 Light weight plain woven fabric

2.3.1 Woven fabric

Cotton fiber can form fabric by knitting, weaving and

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non-woven methods. Cotton woven fabric is formed by

weaving. It is the process of forming fabric by yarns.

Cotton fiber is first spun to yarn after the sets of

preparation. The cotton yarn then weaves to form fabric

by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angle. The

longitudinal yarns are called the warp and the lateral

yarns are the weft or filling.

For the weaving process, there are three primary motions

in generate. They are Shedding, Picking and Beating up.

Shedding is the opening of the sheet warp yarns into two

sets, one is above the opening and the other is under the

opening. The motion provides a path for the weft yarns to

go inside for the insertion. The Shedding is usually

controlled by heddles and the order and pattern of

shedding could affect the structure of the woven fabric.

For Picking, it is the weft insertion motion followed by

the Shedding motion. The weft yarn is inserted by a

carrying device, such as shuttle, to pass the path so the

weft is in right angle interlacing with the warp. For

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Beating up, it is the process to push the newly inserted

yarn with high force by reed and to stabilize the yarn to

interlace with the warp yarns.

2.3.2 Plain weaving

Plain fabric is the fabric which is made by weaving. It

is the simplest of the three basic weaves, which are

Plain, Twill and Satin. Plain weave is formed by two sets

of yarn at right angle passing over and under each other

alternately.(Kadolph 1998) From the Figure it is shown

that that the one of the weft yarn goes over the first

warp yarn and goes under the second warp yarn. While the

following weft yarn goes under the first warp yarn and

goes over the second warp yarn. This pattern would go for

the whole width of the fabric in weft direction. For a

weft all the odd number warps are over the weft while all

the even number warps are below the weft. Then the

position would be alternative for the following weft. For

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the checkerboard pattern (the repeated unit at middle),

one square represents one yarn shown on the surface of

the fabric. The dark square represent warp yarns shown on

the surface while the white square represents weft yarn

shown on the surface. Woven fabric could be divided into

balanced plain weave and unbalanced plain weave.

Fig 2-5 Plain weaving (Kadolph, 1998)

This weaving pattern shown is 1/1 plain and it is into

balanced plain weave. 1/1 plain is balanced plain weave

as in which warp and weft yarns are the same size and the

same distance part. 1/1 plain provides the largest number

of interlacing. It is also the fabric for conducting the

study. It is the most widely used types of woven fabric.

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It could be able to product from very light weight fabric

to heavy weight fabric. The characteristics of plain

weave fabric are easy to form wrinkle, less ravel and

less absorbent than other woven fabric. Plain weave

fabric has no cleared different for the technical face

and back. It is good for creating print design and many

finishing as the surface as it is plain and relative

flatter than other weaves. Printings and finishing would

be conducted on both the face and the back side of the

fabric.

2.3.3 Light weight fabric

Light weight fabric is defined as fabric weight which is

less than 4.0 oz / yd². (Kadolph 1998) Light weight

fabric is divided into light weight sheer fabric and

light weight opaque fabric. The applications of light

weight fabric include light weight appeal, curtains and

furnishings. Shirting fabric is one of the applications

of light weight fabric.

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2.4 Wrinkle

2.4.1 Principle of crease formation

Wrinkle is the crease caused by crumpling, folding, or

shrinking on a normally smooth surface. It is defined as

the fabric deformations based on its viscoelastic

properties, meaning a slight depression in the smoothness

of a surface. It is formed when fabrics are crushed.

Cotton formed crease easily because of its weak

intermolecular bonds provide the fabric with poor

molecular memory.

Cotton is a cellulosic fiber and its polymer is linked

by many hydroxyl (OH) groups .The structural units of

cellulose contain crystalline region, amorphous region

and intermediate region. In the crystalline region, the

cellulose chains are closely packed and the mobility of

the chains is low. However, for the amorphous and the

intermediate regions, the molecular chains are

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temporarily held together with weak hydrogen bonds and

the bonding could be broken easily when distortion force

is applied. After the force is applied, the temporarily

bonds would reform into a new position and the chains are

failed to return to their original positions. As a result,

crease is formed.

2.4.2 Mechanism of Wrinkle Resistance

Since the forming for wrinkle is because of the weak

intermolecular bonding, cross-links are applied to

improve the wrinkle recovery. Physically, crosslinking

resin could build a memory into fiber to allow it to

return to its original size and shape. Chemically, the

wrinkle free finishing agent would react with the

cellulose and bring the cellulose molecules to forming

crosslinking.

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Fig 2-6 Resin crosslinking (Kadolph, 1998)

Resin finishing for wrinkle resistant is to enhance the

“memory” of the cellulous chain so that they could return

to its original position. The resin finishing forms

covalent bonds crosslinking to replace the weak hydrogen

bonds between the cellulose chains. Therefore, the

stability of the bonding would be improved and the

molecule chains would more likely to return to its

original position. When cellulose cotton fiber is treated

with resin agent, intermolecular crosslinks would be

strengthening because of the bonding. As a result,

cellulous chains would be able to hold the adjacent

molecular chains and return into its original position

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after the fiber is bent. The forming of wrinkle is then

prevented. However, the acidic catalyst under high

temperature during the processing would result in loss of

strength. Moreover, due to the crosslinking, the hand

feel of cotton fabric would become stiff and deterred.

2.4.3 Historical development of traditional resin

The history of wrinkle resistant treatment started at

1920’s when the research scientists at Toolal Broadhurst

Lee Company were applying urea-formaldehyde resin for

making cellulous fiber, such as cotton, linen and rayon,

wrinkle free. However, even though the fabric treated by

the urea-formaldehyde resin were smooth and wrinkle free,

there were lots of properties which are not welcomed by

the consumer. The early wrinkle free fabric was poor in

abrasion, weak in tear strength, high tendency to yellow,

poor in hand and affinity for oily, soils, static,

pilling and bad odor. Moreover, the release of the

fomaldehyde has been reported to cause cancer and blamed

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for the toxicity. As a result, alternatives were

developed. The urea and urea-formaldehyde resin were

replaced by dimethylolethylene urea (DMEU) in 1950s.

In 60s, dimethyloldihydroxyethylene (DMDHEU) became very

popular in wrinkle free treatment. In 1990s, modified

dimethyloldihydroxyethylene (DMDHEU) was developed.

(Kadolph ,1998)

Apart from formaldehyde based cross linking agent, non-

formaldehyde based cross linking agents are also

developed. They are 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid

(BTCA), Polycarboxylic acids, Sodium hypophosphite(SHP),

N,Nl-1,3 dimethyl-4,5 dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU),

1,3-dihydroxyl-4,5-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone (DHDMI) and

Citric acid (CA). (Lo, 2006),

2.4.4 Dystar Resin modified (DMDHEU)

The resin which is being used in this project is Evo Pret

RCI-H. It is a finishing auxiliary manufactured by DyStar.

The full name of DyStar is DyStar Colours Distribution

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GmbH .It is an international textile dye and finishing

auxiliary manufacturer with more than 150 years of

experience. It has its Headquarter located at Singapore

and has agencies in about 50 countries. It not only

provides dyes and auxiliaries for the textile industry,

but also for the plastic and leather industries.

Fig 2-7 Evo Pret RCI-H

The chemical characteristics of Evo Pret RCI-H are

Modified Dimethyloldihy-droxyethylene urea (DMDHEU).

(DyStar Group, 2011) The principal reaction of DMDHEU

products is forming crosslinking with the adjacent

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cellulose molecules. The movement of the cellulose

molecules is prevented by the crosslinking. Therefore,

when there is stress, wrinkle is not easily formed.

Meanwhile, it also prevents the occurrence of shrinkage.

Fig 2-8 Crosslinking of cellulose with DMDHEU (Hauser,

2004)

N,N'-Dimethylol-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) is

the chemical basis

of about 90 % of the easy-care and durable press finish

products on the market.

DMDHEU is formed by urea, glyoxal and formaldehyde. One

typical DMDHEU commercial product is consisted of about

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45 % DMDHEU, 9 % diethylene glycol and 2 % methanol.

This product could contain less than 0.3 % free

formaldehyde.

It is in low reactivity and more active catalysts are

required. On application, finishing bathing containing

DMDHEU are more stable than other finishing baths such as

DMU and TMM. The reactivity of DMDHEU can be reduced by

reacting with methanol or diethylene glycol to formed

ether-modified DMDHEU products. The alcohols are also

formaldehyde scavengers and are often added to commercial

finish products. Diethylene glycol has the additional

advantage which is able to withstand high boiling

temperature of 254 °C (490 °F). Therefore, a significant

number of portions are remained in the cured fabric and

the free formaldehyde content is reduced via acetal

formation. Adddition of diethylene glycol can also

improve the chlorine fastness and the degree of whiteness

of the finished product. There are two ways to

incorporate diethylene glycol into the finishing chemical.

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One is a simple mixture of the glycol and DMDHEU. The

other is reacting the glycol with DMDHEU to form a

glycolated product. The two resulting products have

similar performance. Both types are available in the

market place and are referred to as ‘ultra low

formaldehyde’ (ULF) with lessthan 50 ppm released

formaldehyde in the AATCC Testing Method 112-1983.

(Hauser, 2004) (Klemm, 1998) (Lam, 2011)

Fig 2-9 Synthesis of DMDHEU, (Hauser, 2004)

For DMDHEU-based anti-wrinkle products, the reactivity

is low. For modified DMDHEU-based products, the

reactivity is very low.

On the other hand, the restriction of molecular movement

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leads to the loss of fabric tensile strength and tear

strength. It is because for fabric without crosslinking,

the tearing stresses can be distributed over many

molecules so part of the force can be released by the

slightly shifting to share the external forces. (Hauser,

2004)

Evo Pret RCI-H consists of self-catalysing crosslinking

system for low-formaldehyde finishes on textiles which

are made of cellulous or blends of cellulous. (DyStar

Group, 2011)

Table 2-1 Properties of Evo Pret RCI-H

Properties

Application Simple as it contains

integrated catalyst

Formaldehyde content Extremely low free

formaldehyde content

Comply with Oekotex Standard

100

Comply with Japanese Law 112

Comply with AATCC 112

Odour Low odour in processing

Washing temperature Resistant at the boil

Light fastness Do not impair with the

dyeing and prints

Whiteness Do not impair if treated

with acid-stable fluorescent

whiteners

Shrink resistance Good

Crease resistance Good

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Table 2-2 Technical Data of Evo Pret RCI-H

Technical Data

Appearance Clear liquid with low

viscosity

Density Approx. 1.26kg/L

pH value Approx. 2-3

2.4.5 Pad-Dry-Cure and resin

Evo Pret RCI-H is applied by the Pad-Dry-Cure method.

Pad-Dry-Cure method references to the Padding, Drying and

Curing. Pad-Dry-Cure method is a type of wet processing.

Padding is the process to apply the finishing chemical to

the fabric by pressure of rollers. The wet pick-up

associated with the conventional padding in mill

situation is ranged from 60% to 100%. During the padding

process, the fabric has been padded through the liquor

and then squeezed through the rollers of the padder.

Through padding, the liquor is not only on the surface

fabric of the fabric, but also in the capillary regions

between fibers and spaces between yarns. Wet pick-up with

low pick-up ratio would result with uneven distribution

of chemical.(Walt, 1986)

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Therefore, a higher pick-up ratio means more liquor is

applied on the fabric, hence, the fabric is with better

wrinkle performance. However, higher pick-up ratio means

more acid is applied, so the strength of the cotton would

be reduced. Moreover, more pick-up ratio induces more

crosslinking, so the tensile strength would also reduce.

(Shafizadeh, F., 1985) (Bilales, N. M. ,1971) (Hauser,

2004)

Drying is the process to remove the moisture on the resin

treated fabric during the padding process .Fabric is

wetted during the padding process, so the moisture is

needed to remove. The moisture of the wet fabric after

the padding process would affect the outcome of the

curing process by lowering the surface temperature of the

fabric. A higher drying temperature would faster the

evaporation process of the fabric. Therefore, the higher

drying temperature, the lower drying time is needed. As

high temperature could reduce the strength of the cotton

fiber, the higher the drying temperature would result

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33

with the low the tearing strength. (Walt, 1986)

(Sheration Anaheim Hotel Anaheim, 1994)

Curing is the process to place the fabric at high

temperature for allowing the chemical to carry out the

reaction process. Curing is usually used for the fixation

process. The crosslinking of the resin is usually taken

at constant high temperature for minutes. During curing

process, the surface temperature of the fabric is

critical. Meanwhile, air circulation is also a factor

affecting the outcome of the curing. (Walt, 1986)

(Sheration Anaheim Hotel Anaheim, 1994) Therefore,

longer curing time would induce more reaction of

crosslinking, and the fabric is with better wrinkle

performance. However, longer curing time causes more

damages to the cellulose fiber so the tensile strength

would be reduced. (Shafizadeh, F., 1985) The increases of

crosslinking due to the longer curing time would also

cause reduction of tensile strength. (Hauser, 2004)

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2.4.6 Other anti-wrinkle technology

Apart from dimethyloldihydroxyethylene (DMDHEU), there

are still other technologies which are applied for

wrinkle resistant

2.4.6.1 Urea-formaldehyde (U/F)

Urea–formaldehyde (U/F) products are consisted water

solutions of urea and formaldehyde. Its pH value is pH

7.5–9. N,N'-dimethylol urea (DMU) is one of the modified

U/F products . It is modified by additional reaction at

pH 8–9 with methanol to form the liquid dimethylether of

DMU (dimethoxymethyl urea).

Fig 2-10 Dimethylol urea reactions (Hauser, 2004)

The reactions are equilibrium reactions with significant

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35

concentrations of the

starting compounds. However, the equilibria are also the

reasons for the high content of easily released free

formaldehyde in U/F products. Comparatively, the modified

Dimethoxymethyl urea is more stable of then the

unmodified one. The reactivity of the unmodified N,N'-

dimethylol urea is high. Therefore, unmodified U/F

finishing baths must be used within a few hours. The

fabric with U/F finishing is stiff and firm.

Moreover, the U/F finishing provides a better elastic

resilience than other finishing. (Hauser, 2004) (Sharpe

G, 2003)

2.4.6.2 Melamine-formaldehyde (M/F)

Melamine–formaldehyde (M/F) products contain three to six

reactive

N-methylol groups connected with one melamine ring. This

results with a higher degree of crosslinking and better

wash fastness for the finishing. The synthesis is quite

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similar to the U/F products, providing tri- to

hexamethylol melamine (TMM,

HMM) and their methyl ethers (tri- or hexamethoxymethyl

melamine)

Fig 2-11 Melamine-formaldehyde reactions (Hauser, 2004)

TMM is more preferable for the easy-care finishing. It

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is often as a component of

a product mixture which gives a better permanence for

the performance. Moreover, it is used for permanent

chintz (glazing, embossing, Schreinering) of cellulosic.

HMM is found with additional uses in pigment binders.

(Hauser, 2004) (Harriet, 1997) (Kadolph, 1998)

2.4.6.3 N, N’-Dimethyl- 4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea

(DMeDHEU)

N,N'-Dimethyl- 4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU) is

different from DMDHEU. DMeDHEU does not contain

formaldehyde. It is formaldehyde free product. It is

the product of the relatively expensive N,N'-dimethyl

urea and gloxal. It can also be referred to as DMUG

(dimethylurea glyoxalate) or DHDMI, which is derived

from the name of dihydroxy dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone.

(Hauser, 2004)

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Fig 2-12 Synthesis of DMeDHEU (Hauser, 2004)

Similar to DMDHEU, DMeDHEU can be modified by reacting

with alcohols such as methanol, diethylene glycol or 1,6-

hexanediol to ether derivatives. Similar to DMeDHEU

provide cellulose fiber with anti-wrinkle property by

crosslinking reaction with cellulose.

Fig 2-13 Crosslinking of cellulose with DMeDHEU

(Hauser, 2004)

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However, the two hydroxyl groups in the 4,5-position of

DMeDHEU are less reactive than the N,N'-methylol groups

of DMDHEU. Therefore,stronger catalysts or relatively

harsher reaction conditions are needed to induce

successful crosslinking. On the other hand, DMeDHEU costs

about twice more of DMDHEU. Meanwhile, in order to

achieve a comparable easy-care and durable press effect

to DMDHEU, nearly twice of the amount of DMeDHEU is

needed. (Geubtner M, 1990) This poor cost to performance

ratio is one reason for the small market share of this

formaldehyde-free finish. The other reason is that a

completely formaldehyde-free finishing is notcommercially

important. It is because there is the advent of the ultra

low formaldehyde products. Yet, a 1:1 mixture of DMDHEU

and DMeDHEU is popular because of its reduced

formaldehyde levels with only slightly inferior physical

properties at an acceptable cost. (Hauser, 2004) (Sharpe

G, 2003)

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2.4.6.4 1,2,3,4-Butantetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)

1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) is an

alternative product for a formaldehyde-free crease

resistant finish.

The activation mechanism of BTCA and the reaction with

cellulose are shown in Fig 2-14

Fig 2-14 The activation mechanism of BTCA (Hauser, 2004)

Fig 2-15 Crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA

(Hauser, 2004)

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Novel cellulosic crosslinking agents with interesting

properties are gained by molecular incorporation of the

phosphorus catalyst in the BTCA structure. BTCA gives

rise to good crease recovery. However, it is with limited

laundering durability because of the hydrolysis property

of the ester bonds to cellulose. The

BTCA is relatively more expensive, even more expensive

than the cost of DMeDHEU. In addition, the reactions of

this chemical with cellulose require large amounts of

sodium hypophosphite as a catalyst. Sodium hypophosphite

is expensive, and the reducing agent discolors certain

dyestuffs, especially some reactive and sulfur dyes. The

hazardous effect of phosphorus containing catalyst and

the loss of mechanical strength loss due to the treatment

with polycarboxylic acid are the side effect of the BTCA.

(Hauser, 2004) (Lam, 2011)

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2.5 Conclusion

In this chapter, the physical and chemical properties of

cotton material have been focused. The properties of

cotton play a key role in the wrinkle performance.

Meanwhile, the background knowledge of light weight plain

woven fabric has been discussed and its structure also

contributes to its wrinkle performance. The last but not

the least, the knowledge about wrinkle formation and the

resin treatment are obtained for the construction of the

study on of resin finishing on wrinkle on light weight

100% cotton plain fabric under different conditions.

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Chapter 3 Methodology and Experiment

3.1 Introduction

In this chapter, the experiments applied on the light

weight 100% cotton plain woven fabric would be described.

The apparatus and material used would be discussed.

Preparation of the test specimens would be shown and

details of the testing would be explained.

3.2 Fabric specification

The light weight 100% cotton plain woven fabric which was

used for the resin treatment was with the following

specifications.

Table 3-1 Fabric specification

Fabric

specification

Fabric to be

studied

Fiber content 100 % Cotton

fabric

Fabric structure Plain weave

Fabric weight 125.3 g/m²

Yarn count 13 tex

Fabric density

Warp density

Weft density

140 yarns per

inch

76 yarns per inch

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3.3 Parameter of experiment

The cotton fabric was treated on the listed parameter to

evaluate the effect of the resin and the treating

conditions towards the performances and the properties of

the fabric.

Table 3-2 Treatment parameter

Perimeter

Concentration of the Evo®

Pret RCI-H

30g/L 45g/L 60g/L

Liquor pick-up: 60% 70% 80%

Drying temperature: 110℃ 120℃

Curing temperature: 2 mins 2.5 mins 3 mins

3.4 Application on fabric resin treatment

3.4.1 Preparation for Resin

There are three recipes for preparing the resin chemicals.

They are made in different resin concentration level.

Meanwhile, the 60% acetic acid was used for controlling

the pH value.

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Table 3-3 Resin chemical recipe

Recipe 1 2 3

Evo Pret RCI-H 30g/L 45g/L 60g/L

Acetic acid

60%

1.0g/L 1.0g/L 1.0g/L

3.4.2 Padding

Padding is the process to apply the finishing chemical to

the fabric. Fabrics are passed between the padding

rollers during the padding process. Through the pressure

applied by the two padding rollers, the chemical is able

to go inside to the fabric. It is a common method to

apply finishing to the fabric. Padding not only padded

the chemical inside the fabric, but also controlled the

pick-up ratio of the fabric.

For this project, Rapid Horizontal Padder was used. The

following some information about padding for this project.

Table 3-4 Summary for the using of the Horizontal

padder

Pick-up % Speed

(RPM)

Pressure Padding

time

60% 5 2 2

70% 5 1 2

80% 5 0.8 2

RPM: revolutions per minute

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Fig3-1 Horizontal padder

3.4.3 Drying

Drying is the process to remove the moisture on the resin

treated fabric. It is because for the process to preparer

the resin chemical, water is added for solving the resin.

However, as long as the resin was padded on the fabric,

the water is no longer needed. The moisture of the wet

specimen after the padding process would affect the

outcome of the curing process afterward. Therefore, it is

needed to remove the moisture existing on the fabric to

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prepare it for the curing process.

For the drying process, two temperatures (110℃ and 120℃)

were used.

Fig3-2 Drying oven

3.4.4 Curing

Curing is the process to place the fabric at high

temperature for allowing the chemical to carry out the

reaction process. For this study, the curing process is

the process for the resin chemical to carry out the

crosslinking reaction. The resin would crosslink with the

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cellulose of the cotton fiber at an elevated temperature.

For the curing process of this study, the curing

temperature is 150℃ and the curing time was 2 min, 2.5

min and 3 min.

Fig3-3 Curing Machine

3.5 Standard Testing and Measurement

3.5.1 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery

Angle (AATCC 66)

3.5.1.1 Introduction

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AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:

Recovery Angle was the standard to determine the wrinkle

recovery of the fabric. It would be applied on woven

fabric which is made from any fiber or combination of

fibers. In this study, option 2 is chosen for conducting

the test.

3.5.1.2 Principle

Wrinkle was formed by folding and compressing the

test specimens under controlled conditions for a

prescribed period of time. The test specimens were then

suspended in a test instrument for a prescribed recovery

period. Finally, the recovery angle was recorded.

3.5.1.3 Apparatus and Materials

Wrinkle Recovery Tester and accessories (for option

2)

Disk and protractor with clamp mounted to the disk

Specimen holder with two superimposed stainless

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steel leave (0.16±0.01mm thick, fastened at one end and

have the top leave shoter than the bottom leaf)

Plastic press (consist of two superimposed leaves

95x 20 mm fastened at one end)

Weight (500g ± 5g )

Clocked accurate to ± 1 s

Fig3-4 Apparatus for AATCC 66

3.5.1.4 Sample Preparation

12 test specimens were required for the test. Their size

were 40x 15 mm. 6 of them are with their long edge

parallel to the warp direction and 6 of them were with

their long edge parallel to the weft direction. Samples

were required to cut from different location with

different set of the warp or weft yarns. Markings were

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51

made on the face of the test specimens. The test

specimens were required to place under the Standards

conditions room at 21 ºC ± 1 ºC and 65 ± 2% RH for 24

hours before the testing. During the conditioning,

specimens were needed to lay flat. Careful handling was

required to avoid distorting the specimens.

3.5.1.5 Procedure

Specimen was placed between the leaves of the metal

holder with one end aligned under the 18 mm mark, leaving

one free end of the test specimen on the long stainless

steel leave. The free end of the test specimen was folded

1.5mm away along the edge of the short stainless steel

leave. Then the holder with the folded test specimen was

inserted into the plastic press. The weight was then

applied on the press-holder on a flat surface for 5 min ±

5s. After the 5 min of weighting, weight and the plastic

press were needed to remove gently. The metal holder with

the test specimen with one free end folded was inserted

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on the clip mounted on the face of the recorder device.

The free hanging leg of the specimen was aligned with the

vertical guide line to indicate the recovery angle. For

the 5 min recovery period, it was needed to keep on

adjusting the recorder to eliminate the gravitational

effect by ensuring the free hanging leg of the specimen

aligning vertically with the guide line.

3.5.1.6 Evaluation

After the recovery period, the recovery angle was

recorded. There were totally 4 groups of three specimens

were recorded for a completely test. They were warp

folded face to face, warp folded back to back, weft

folded face to face and weft folded back to back.

3.5.2 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method

(AATCC 128)

3.5.2.1 Introduction

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Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance

Method was the standard to evaluate the smoothness

appearance of the textile surface after induced wrinkling.

It could be applied on fabrics at original stated,

unwashed stated and after home laundering.

3.5.2.2 Principle

Wrinkle was formed on the test specimen under standard

atmosphere condition by a standard wrinkling device with

predetermined load for a prescribed period of time. The

specimens were then placed in a standard condition for a

prescribed period of time for reconditioning. Finally,

the specimens were evaluated by comparing with the 3-

dimensional reference standards.

3.5.2.3 Apparatus and Materials

AATCC Wrinkle Tester

AATCC Wrinkle Tester was used to hold and to apply force

to the test specimen for wrinkling. The total loading for

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54

forming the wrinkle was 3500g.

AATCC 3-Dimensional Wrinkle Recovery Replicas

AATCC 3-Dimensional Wrinkle Recovery Replicas were used

to compare and evaluated the appearance of the test

specimen.

Standards conditions room at 21 ºC ± 1 ºC and 65 ± 2% RH.

Fig3-5 AATCC Wrinkle Tester

3.5.2.4 Sample Preparation

3 test specimens were required for this test. Their size

is 15 x 28cm with the long dimension running with the

warp direction.

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55

3.5.2.5 Experimental Procedure

Top flange of the wrinkle tester was held in top position

with locking pin. The test specimen was wrapped by the

upper and lower flanges with the long edges on the tester

and had its facing outwards. The long edge was held on

the upper and lower flanges by the steel springs and

clamps provided. The locking pin was then removed and

allowing the top flange to lower gently for placing the

loading weight on the test specimen to form wrinkle. The

time duration for applying the weight on the specimen was

20 minutes. After 20 mins, the weight was removed from

the top flange. The top flange was raised and all the

springs and clamps would be removed. The test specimen

was taken away from the tester carefully for preventing

the distortion of the induced wrinkle. The test specimens

were required to place under standard condition for 24

hours before the evaluation and hang the specimen

vertically with the long direction for reconditioning.

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3.5.2.6 Evaluation

Evaluation was taken after 24 hours removed from the

tester. The evaluations were taken place at a darken room

with the standard lighting equipment for viewing test

specimen according to the replicas. It is recommended

that the observer to stand 4 fts away from the viewing

board which had the test specimens mounted on for a more

objective observation. It is because the normal variation

of the height of the observer may affect the rating of

the specimens if the observer is too close to the

specimens.

3.5.3 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated

Home Laundering (AATCC 124)

3.5.3.1 Introduction

AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics

after Repeated Home Laundering was the standard used to

evaluate the smoothness appearance of the flat fabric

test specimens after repeated home laundering

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3.5.3.2 Principle

The smoothness of the test specimens were evaluated

by rating the specimens with comparison with the

appropriate reference standards after standard home

laundering practices.

3.5.3.3 Apparatus and Materials

Automatic washing machine

Automatic tumble dryer

1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent powder

Ballast of 92x 92 ± 3cm hemmed pieces of the bleached

cotton sheeting

Lighting and evaluation area in a darkened room with

standard lighting arrangement

Standard AATCC Three-Dimensional Smoothness Appearance

Replicas sets of six

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Fig 3-6 Washing machine and tumble dryer for AATCC 124

3.5.3.4 Sample Preparation

Three test specimens of 38 x 38 cm fabric were cut

parallel to the fabric length were required by the

testing. Test Specimens were required to have the warp

direction marked and the edges overclocked. Each specimen

was required to contain different groups of warp and weft

yarns.

3.5.3.5 Procedure

For this testing, the machine washing was in durable

press mode and then tumble drought for 30 min. The

specimen was washed and drought for five complete cycles.

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3.5.4 Determination of tear force using ballistic

pendulum method (Elmendorf) (BS EN ISO 13937-1)

3.5.4.1 Introduction

Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-1, Determination of tear

force using ballistic pendulum method was known as the

Elmendorf method. It was the standard method for

describing the tear force needed to generate a single-rip

tear for a defined length of cutting when a sudden force

was applied. The testing standard is applicable on woven

textile fabrics.

.

3.5.4.2 Principle

By measuring the tearing work done on a fixed distance on

a fabric, the force required was recorded. The tearing

work was done on a slit cut in a fabric and tearing was

to continue the cutting of the fabric. The tearing force

was measured when the moving jaw of the pendulum was

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60

released and moved to tear the test specimen completely.

3.5.4.3 Apparatus and Materials

Pendulum testing machine

A mechanical or electronic device for recording the tear

force

Fig 3-7 Pendulum testing machine with electronic device

Fig 3-8 Weight used for the pendulum testing machine for

the cotton specimens

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61

3.5.4.4 Sample Preparation

For each sample, two sets of specimens were required. One

set was in the warp direction and other set in weft

direction. For each set of specimen, at least 5 test

specimens were required. Specimens were required to cut

in to a specified shape and had a slit on the middle of

the base of the fabric.

3.5.4.5 Procedure

Specimen was mounted on the pendulum testing machine and

a slit was made. The pendulum was released and the

reading from the digital display was taken.

3.5.5 Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped

test specimens (Single tear method) (BS EN ISO 13937-2)

3.5.5.1 Introduction

Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-2, Determination of

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62

tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear

method) was known as trouser test. It is the standard

method for describing the tear force needed to continues

a previously cut single tear when the force was applied

to tear the fabric parallel to the cut. The test is

applicable to woven fabric. For knitted fabric and highly

elastic woven fabric, the test is not applicable.

3.5.5.2 Principle

By tearing the specimen in the direction of the previous

cut, the force required to tear the specimen was recorded

by a tensile testing machine and calculated the force

peaks of the autographic trace.

3.5.5.3 Apparatus and Materials

Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine

Clamping device

Computer for running the software used to record and

calculate the tearing force

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63

Fig 3-9 Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine

Fig 3-10 Software for running the CRE machine

Fig 3-11 Software for running the CRE machine

3.5.5.4 Sample Preparation

For each sample, two sets of specimens were required. One

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64

set was in the warp direction and other set in weft

direction. For each set of specimen, at least 5 test

specimens were required. Specimens were required to cut

in to a specified shape with 20 cm long and 5cm wide. A

longitudinal slit with 10cm long was cut on the middle of

the width. A mark was made the 2.5 cm away from the other

width for indicating the end of tear.

3.5.5.5 Procedure

The test specimen was clamped on the two jaws with one

leg in each jaw. The cut was located along the

centerlines of the jaws. The software was started to move

the machine to tear the specimen and record and calculate

the result.

3.5.6 Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool

(AATCC 96)

3.5.6.1 Introduction

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AATCC Test Standard 96, Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool, was

the testing standard for deterring the dimensional

changes for fabric which has been subjected by commercial

laundering. The standard is applicable on woven and

knitted fabric. However, for fabric which is made of wool

fiber, this test is not applicable.

3.5.6.2 Principle

The test specimens were laundering by the typical

commercial laundering procedures. The dimensional change

was found by measuring the making distances on the fabric.

3.5.6.3 Apparatus and Materials

Automatic washing machine

Automatic tumble dryer

Template for making bench on the specimens

Textile marker

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66

Fig 3-12 Washing machine and tumble dryer for AATCC 124

3.5.6.4 Sample Preparation

Size and preparation was varied depending by the type of

fabric tested. For one testing, 3 test specimens of 40 x

40 cm fabric was cut parallel to the fabric length were

prepared. The bench marks were made with 25 cm distance.

3.5.6.5 Procedure

For this testing, the machine washing were in durable

press mode and then tumble drying for 30 min. The

specimens were washed and dry for five complete cycles.

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67

Chapter 4 Wrinkle Properties of Cotton Fabric

4.1 AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven

Fabrics: Recovery Angle

4.1.1 Introduction

Wrinkle recovery is the property of a fabric enabling it

to recover from the folding deformation (AATCC). It is an

important property for shirting fabric as normally, a

shirt would come over different types of folding in

packaging and domestic usage. A shirting fabric with good

wrinkle recovery is always preferable. Therefore, wrinkle

recovery is a key characteristic for easy care garment.

AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:

Recovery Angle was the standard to determine the wrinkle

recovery of the fabric.

4.1.2 Result

The result for the AATCC Test Method 66 was generated

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68

according to the standard method stated on the Chapter 3.

Methodology. The average recovery angle for the each

group of specimens were calculated according to the warp

folded face to face, warp folded back to back, weft

folded face to face and weft folded back to back. For

analyzing the result, all warp reading and weft reading

were averaged separately. Meanwhile, for more summarized

trends and relationships to be shown, all the warp

reading and weft reading were averaged for this part.

Table 4-1 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Control specimen Resin treated specimens

Recovery angle: 82.3ᵒ Recovery angle: 86ᵒ to

140ᵒ

Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any

parameter had a significance improvement in the recovery

angle in the Standard Testing. It was shown that the

resin treatment within all the listed parameters could

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69

improve the wrinkle recovery performance on the light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric being studied in this

project.

4.1.3 Discussion

Effect of Resin Concentration

Fig 4-1 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery angle

From the above graph (Fig 4-1), the changes of the angle

recovery due to the change of resin concentration were

shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio, the recovery

0.0

20.0

40.0

60.0

80.0

100.0

120.0

140.0

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

Re

cove

ry a

ngl

e

Pick up % , Curing Time

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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70

angle would increase when the resin concentration level

increased. There was a trend that for a higher resin

concentration level, the resin treated specimens would

have a high degree of angle recovery with the other

perimeters constant. It was shown that the factor, resin

concentration level, would improve the wrinkle recovery

performance of the light weight 100% cotton plain fabric

which is being studied in this project. Similar results

were also shown on other treated fabrics.

Effect of Pick-up Ratio

Fig 4-2 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

wrinkle recovery angle

0.0

20.0

40.0

60.0

80.0

100.0

120.0

140.0

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

30 30 30 45 45 45 60 60 60

Re

cove

ry a

ngl

e

Curing Time, Resin concentation

Pick up 60%

Pick up 70%

Pick up 80%

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71

From the above graph (Fig 4-2), the changes of the angle

recovery due to the change of pick-up ratio were shown.

It was shown that with the same drying temperature,

curing time and resin concentration level, the recovery

angle would increase when pick-up ratio increased.

However, for some specimens, there were exceptional

cases. For example, for specimens which had been cured

for 2 min and with 30g/L resin concentration, the average

recovery angle would slightly decrease when the pick-up

ratio changes from 70% to 80%. Yet, when comparing with

the specimens with 60% pick-up ratio, the recovery angles

of 70% and 80% were still higher.

There was a general trend that for a higher pick-up ratio,

the resin treated specimens would have a high degree of

angle recovery with the other perimeters constant. It

shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would improve the

wrinkle recovery performance of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which was being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

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72

treated fabrics.

Effect of Curing Time

Fig 4-3 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

recovery angle

From the above graph (Fig 4-3), the changes of the angle

recovery due to the change of curing time were shown.

It was shown that with the same drying temperature, resin

concentration level and pick-up ratio, the recovery angle

would increase when the curing time increased in general.

There was a general trend that for a longer curing time,

0.0

20.0

40.0

60.0

80.0

100.0

120.0

140.0

30 45 60 45 60 30 45 60 30

REc

ove

ry a

ngl

e

Resin level

2 min

2.5 min

3 min

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73

the resin treated specimens would have a high degree of

angle recovery with the other perimeters constant. The

trend was a lot more remarkable when directly compared

the data of 2 min curing time with 3 min curing time.

It shown that the factor, curing time, would improve the

wrinkle recovery performance of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which was being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

Effect of Drying Temperature

Fig 4-4 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery angle

0.0

20.0

40.0

60.0

80.0

100.0

120.0

140.0

30 60 45 60 60 60 30 70 45

Re

cove

ry a

ngl

e

Pick up % , Curing Time

110⁰C

120⁰C

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74

From the above graph (Fig 4-4), the changes of the angle

recovery due to the change of drying temperature were

shown. It was shown that with the same pick-up ratio,

resin concentration level and curing time, the recovery

angle would increase when the curing time increased in

general.

There was a general trend that for a high drying

temperature, the resin treated specimens would have a

high degree of angle recovery with the other perimeters

constant.

It shown that the factor, drying temperature, would

improve the wrinkle recovery performance of the light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric which was being studied

in this project. Similar results were also shown on

other treated fabrics.

4.1.4 Conclusion

In the Stand Testing AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle

Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle, it could be

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75

shown that with higher resin level, higher pick-up ratio,

higher drying temperature and longer curing time, the

specimens would have better performance in wrinkle

recovery angle.

4.2 AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics:

Appearance Method

4.2.1 Introduction

Smoothness appearance is the visual impression of

planarity of a fabric. The smoothness appearance would be

obtained by comparing with the sets of reference

standards. AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of

Fabrics: Appearance Method was the standard for

evaluating the smoothness appearance of the textile

surface after induced wrinkling formed by a standard

wrinkling device under standard atmosphere condition.

The level of the wrinkle recovery ability was graded in

this test. For easy care garment, the performance of

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76

smoothness appearance is important. The smoothness

appearance is an important property for shirting fabric

as a shirt would come over different types and forms of

load compressions by any means.

4.2.2 Result

The result for the AATCC Test Method 128 was generated

according to the standard method stated on the Chapter 3.

Methodology. The grading was based on the 3-dimensinal

reference standards. For each set for specimen, there

were 3 specimens and 3 judgments were made. For reporting

the result, the judgments were averaged to the nearest

tenth of a rating.

Table 4-2 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Control specimen Resin treated specimens

Grade 1 Grade 2 to Grade 3

Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

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77

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any

parameter had a significance improvement in the

smoothness appearance in the Standard Testing. It was

shown that the resin treatment within all the listed

parameters has significant improvement in the smoothness

appearance performance on the light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric being studied in this project.

4.2.3 Discussion

Effect of Resin Concentration

Fig 4-5 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery rating 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

4.0

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

Gra

de

Pick up %, curing time

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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78

From the above graph (Fig 4-5), the difference of

the smoothness appearance grading due to the change of

resin concentration were shown. It was shown that with

the same drying temperature, curing time and pick-up

ratio, the smoothness appearance would be better when the

resin concentration level increase.

There was a trend that for a higher resin concentration

level, the resin treated specimens would have a better

performance in the wrinkle recovery on the fabric surface

with the other perimeters constant. It shown that the

factor, resin level, would improve the wrinkle recovery

performance of the surface of light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric which is being studied in this project.

Similar results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

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79

Effect of Pick-up Ratio

Fig 4-6 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

From the above graph (Fig 4-6), the difference of the

smoothness appearance grading due to the change of pick-

up ratio were shown. It was shown that with the same

drying temperature, curing time and resin concentration

level, the smoothness appearance would be better when

pick-up ratio increases.

There was a general trend that for a higher pick-up ratio,

the resin treated specimens would have a better

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

30 30 30 45 45 45 60 60 60

Gra

de

Curing time, resin level

Pick up 60%

Pick up 70%

Pick up 80%

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80

smoothness appearance with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would improve

the wrinkle recovery performance of the surface of the

light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being

studied in this project Similar results were also shown

on other treated fabrics.

However, for some specimens, there were exceptional cases.

For example, for the specimens which had 60g/L resin

concentration level, specimens with 70% pick-up would

have lower grading then these with 60% pick-up. However,

the average smoothness appearance was slightly increased

when the pick-up ratio changes from 60% to 80%. The trend

could still be shown. Similar results were also shown on

other treated fabrics.

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81

Effect of Curing Time

Fig 4-7 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best

while 1 is the worst)

From the above graph (Fig 4-7), the differences of the

smoothness appearance due to the change of curing time

were shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, pick-up ratio and resin concentration level,

the wrinkle recovery grading would increase or discuses

when curing time increases.

There was no trend showing that for a longer curing time,

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

4.0

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

Gra

de

pick up ratio

2 min

2.5 min

3 min

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82

the resin treated specimens would have a better or

inversed performance in wrinkle recovery grading with the

other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, curing time, would have limited

to rare effect on the wrinkle recovery of the light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being studied in

this project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

Effect of Drying Temperature

Fig 4-8 Relationship between drying temperature and

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

4.0

60 70 80 60 70 80 60 70 80

2 2 2 2.5 2.5 2.5 3 3 3

60 60 60 60 60 60 60 60 60

Gra

de

pick up ratio, curing time, resin level

110ºC

120ºC

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83

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

From the above graph (Fig 4-8), the changes of the

smoothness due to the change of drying temperature were

shown. It was shown that with the same resin

concentration level, pick-up ratio and curing time, there

were slightly increase on the grading on the smoothness

appearance when the drying time increases in general. It

was because that most of the specimens were closely

graded and the numerical difference between the grading

was close. Yet, the trend was still to be shown.

There was a general trend that for a higher drying

temperature, the resin treated specimens would have a

better performance on the smoothness appearance with the

other perimeters constant in general. It could show that

the factor, drying temperature, would improve the

smoothness appearance on of the light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric which was being studied in this project.

Similar results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

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84

4.2.4 Conclusion

It is because of the similar performance and closely

graded result (mostly about Grade2 to Grade3), the

contrasts of result based on the change of the perimeter

was not so strong. Therefore, some effects of the

changing from the treated perimeter were not as

remarkable as the other testing. However, some trend

could still be shown.

In the AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics:

Appearance Method, it could be shown that with higher

resin level, higher pick-up ratio and higher drying

temperature the specimens would have better performance

in wrinkle recovery grading. It was also shown that the

effect of curing time on affecting the wrinkle recovery

grading is limited. It may be because of that the fabric

being studied in this project is thin and light in weight.

2 min is long enough for the resin to carry out

crosslinking reaction at the high curing temperature.

Saturation of the reaction is nearly reached for the 2

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85

min curing time. Therefore, the longer of curing time may

not encourage more crosslinking reaction to improve the

wrinkle recovery grading.

4.3 AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness Appearance of

Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering

4.3.1 Introduction

Smoothness appearance after home laundering of a fabric

is a key characteristic for easy care garment. For a

fabric which has come under repeated laundering,

laundering creases would be formed. Laundering crease is

the unintended result after laundering. It is the folds

and lines running without any specified direction on a

washed fabric. A shirting fabric with good smoothness

appearance after home laundering is always preferable.

AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics

after Repeated Home Laundering was the standard to

evaluate the smoothness appearance after repeated home

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86

laundering for flat fabric specimens.

4.3.2 Result

The result for the AATCC Test Method 124 was generated

according to the standard method stated on the Chapter 3.

Methodology. Results were taken after the 1st cycle, 3

rd

cycle and 5th cycle. For reporting the result, the grading

of each set of sample was averaged for the same washing

cycle.

Table 4-3 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Control specimen Resin treated specimens

Grade 1 Grade 2 to Grade 3.5

Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any

parameter have a significance improvement in the

performance in the Standard Testing. It was shown that

the resin treatment within all the listed parameters

could improve the smoothness appearance after repeated

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87

home laundering on the light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric being studied in this project.

4.3.3 Discussion

Effect of Repeated Home Laundering

Fig 4-9 Relationship between the number of

laundering and wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery

grade 5 is the best while 1 is the worst)

From the above graph (Fig 4-9), the grading of smoothness

appearance of after the 1st, 3

rd and 5

th washing and drying

cycles were shown. It was shown that with the same

drying temperature, pick-up ratio, curing time and resin

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

Gra

de

Pick up % ,Curing time

1st

3rd

5th

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88

concentration level, the grading of smoothness appearance

would decrease when the number of washing increased.

There was a trend that for resin treated specimens, the

more times of washing and drying the specimens withstand,

the specimens would have a lower grading on smoothness

appearance with the other perimeters constant. On the

after word, the anti-wrinkle effect of the resin would

retread on certain degree after repeated laundering.

It shown that the factor, repeated home laundering, would

negatively affect smoothness appearance performance of

the light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being

studied in this project. Similar results were also shown

on other treated fabrics.

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89

Effect of Resin Concentration

Fig 4-10 Relationship between resin level and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

From the above graph (Fig 4-10), the differences of the

smoothness appearance due to the changes of resin

concentration were shown. It was shown that with the same

drying temperature, curing time, pick-up ratio and number

of washing, the smoothness appearance would improve when

the resin concentration level increased.

There was a trend that for a higher resin concentration

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

Gra

de

Pick up %, Curing time

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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90

level, the resin treated specimens would have a better

smoothness appearance performance with the other

perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, resin level, would improve the

smoothness appearance of the light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric which was being studied in this project.

Similar results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

Effect of Pick-up Ratio

Fig 4-11 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

30 30 30 45 45 45 60 60 60

Gra

de

Curing time, Resin concentration

Pick up 60%

Pick up 70%

Pick up 80%

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91

From the above graph (Fig 4-11), the differences of the

smoothness appearance due to the change of pick-up ratio

were shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, curing time and resin concentration level,

the smoothness appearance would improve when pick-up

ratio increased.

There was a general trend that for a higher pick-up ratio,

the resin treated specimens would have a higher grading

on smoothness appearance with the other perimeters

constant.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would improve

the smoothness appearance performance of the light weight

100% cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

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92

Effect of Curing Time

Fig 4-12 Relationship between curing time and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

From the above graph (Fig 4-12), the differences of the

smoothness appearance due to the change of curing time

are shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, pick-up ratio and resin concentration level,

the wrinkle recovery grading would increase discuses or

unchanged when curing time increased.

There was no trend showing that for a longer curing time,

the resin treated specimens would have a better or

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

30 45 60 30 45 60 30 45 60

Gra

de

Resin level

2 min

2.5 min

3 min

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93

inversed performance in smoothness appearance grading

with the other perimeters constant. It shown that the

factor, curing time, would have limited to rare effect on

affecting the smoothness appearance grading after

repeated home laundering of the light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric which was being studied in this project.

Similar results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

Effect of Drying Temperature

Fig 4-13 Relationship between drying temperature and

wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the

best while 1 is the worst)

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

60 70 80 60 70 80 60 70 80

2 2 2 2.5 2.5 2.5 3 3 3

Gra

de

Pick up % , curing time

110ºC

120ºC

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94

From the above graph (Fig 4-13), the smoothness

appearance performance of the resin treated specimens

were shown according to the drying temperature they had

treated.

It was shown that generally, the specimens which hadbeen

treated with higher drying temperature would have better

smoothness appearance performance. Meanwhile, the

specimens which had been treated with higher drying

temperature would have more stable grading in the listed

perimeter.

It shown that the factor, drying temperature, would not

only improve the smoothness appearance, but also

stabilized the performance of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

4.3.4 Conclusion

The result and trend of AATCC Test Standard 124

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95

Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home

Laundering was similar to the result of AATCC Test Method

128. However, the trends related to the change of the

perimeters were not remarkable with great contract. It

was because the numerical difference between the grading

was not large and the performances were closely graded

(mostly about Grade2 to Grade3.5), the contrasts of

result based on the change of the perimeter were not so

strong. Therefore, some effects of the changing from the

treated perimeter were not as remarkable as the other

testing. However, some trend could still be shown.

In the AATCC Test Method 124 Smoothness Appearance of

Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering, it could be shown

that with higher resin level, higher pick-up ratio and

higher drying temperature, the specimens would have

better performance in smoothness appearance grading. It

was also shown that the effect of curing time on

affecting the smoothness appearance was limited. It may

be because of that the fabric being studied in this

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96

project was thin and light in weight. 2 min is long

enough for the resin to carry out crosslinking reaction

at the high curing temperature.

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97

Chapter 5 Tearing Properties of Cotton Fabric

5.1 Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum

method (Elmendorf) (BS EN ISO 13937-1)

5.1.1 Introduction

For the resin treated light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric, its strength would be reduced because of the

strong acidic condition, high temperature during the

processing. Even though wrinkle resistance was preferable

for garment, the loss of tearing strength was not welcome.

Therefore, it was of great important to control the loss

of tearing strength due to the resin treatment.

Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-1, Determination of tear

force using ballistic pendulum method was the standard

method for describing the tearing strength of the test

specimens.

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98

5.1.2 Result

The result for the Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-1 was

generated according to the standard method stated on the

Chapter 3. Methodology. The tearing resistance for the

each sample of the ten specimens was calculated according

to the warp direction and weft direction. For analyzing

the result, all warp reading and weft reading were

averaged separately.

Table 5-1 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Control specimen Resin treated specimens

Warp: 8.3N

Weft: 6.2N

Warp: 4.3N to 6.8N

Weft: 3.2N to 5.2N

Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any

listed parameter have a significance reduction of tearing

resistance in the Standard Testing. It was shown that the

resin treatment within all the listed parameters could

cause the loss of tearing strength on the light weight

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99

100% cotton plain fabric being studied in this project.

5.1.3 Discussion

Different between warp and weft

Fig 5-1 Relationship between warp and weft in

tearing resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-1), the difference in tearing

resistance between warp and weft direction of the tested

specimens were shown. It was shown that the same drying

temperature, resin concentration, pick-up ratio and

curing time, the warp yarn would have better tearing

3.5

4.5

5.5

6.5

7.5

8.5

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

Warp

Weft

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100

strength then the weft yarn. This difference would also

be seen on the control specimens. Similar results were

also shown on other treated fabrics.

Therefore, it could conclude that the warp yarn have

better tearing strength then the weft. It was also

confirmed to the other similar testing related to warp

and weft on tearing strength.

Effect of Drying Temperature

Fig 5-2 Relationship between drying temperature and

tearing resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-2), the differences in

0.0

1.0

2.0

3.0

4.0

5.0

6.0

7.0

60 70 80 60 70 80 60 70 80

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

pick up %

110ºC

120ºC

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101

tearing resistance between the specimens which had been

dried at 110℃ and 120℃ are shown. It was shown that for

the specimens which had treated by the same resin

concentration, pick-up ratio and curing time, the

specimens dried at 120℃ would have poor tearing

resistance then the specimens dried at 110℃.

There was a trend that for a longer higher drying

temperature, the resin treated specimens would have lower

tearing strength with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, drying temperature, could

lowering the tearing strength of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other treated

fabrics.

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102

Effect of Curing Time

Fig 5-3 Relationship between curing time and tearing

resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-3), the differences of the

tearing resistance due to the change of curing time were

shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, resin concentration level and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the curing

time increases.

There was a trend that for a longer curing time, the

resin treated specimens would have lower tearing strength

0.0

1.0

2.0

3.0

4.0

5.0

6.0

7.0

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

30 45 60 30 45 60 30 45 60

REs

ista

nce

(N

)

pick up %, resin level

2 min

2.5 min

3 min

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103

with the other perimeters constant. The trend would be a

lot more remarkable when directly compare the data of 2

min curing time with 3 min curing time.

It shown that the factor, curing time, could cause a

decrease in tearing strength of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

Effect of Resin Concentration

Fig 5-4 Relationship between resin level and tearing

resistance

0.0

1.0

2.0

3.0

4.0

5.0

6.0

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

pick up %, curing time

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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104

From the above graph (Fig 5-4), the changes of the

tearing resistance due to the change of resin

concentration were shown. It was shown that with the

same drying temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the resin

concentration level increase.

There was a general trend that for a higher resin

concentration level, the resin treated specimens would

have lower tearing strength with the other perimeters

constant.

It shown that the factor, resin level, would lower the

tearing strength of the light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric which is being studied in this project. Similar

results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

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105

Effect of Pick-up Ratio

Fig 5-5 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

tearing resistance

From the above three graph (Fig 5-5), the change of the

tearing resistance due to the change of resin

concentration were shown. It was shown that with the

same drying temperature, curing time and resin

concentration level, the tearing resistance would

decrease when the pick-up ratio increase.

There was a general trend that for a higher pick-up ratio,

the resin treated specimens would have lower tearing

0.0

1.0

2.0

3.0

4.0

5.0

6.0

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

30 30 30 45 45 45 60 60 60

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

curing time, resin level

Pick up 60%

Pick up 70%

Pick up 80%

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106

strength with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would lower the

tearing strength of the light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric which was being studied in this project. Similar

results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

5.1.4 Conclusion

In the Stand Testing Determination of tear force using

ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf ) (BS EN ISO 13937-

1), it could be shown that with higher resin level,

higher pick-up ratio, higher drying temperature and

longer curing time, the specimens would have poorer

performance in tearing strength. It also shown that resin,

high temperature and longer time stayed in high

temperature could cause degradation on cotton fiber. The

result was confirmed to the prediction in the literature

review related to the performance on tearing strength of

cotton related to the effect of temperature, resin, and

pH value.

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107

5.2 Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test

specimens (Single tear method) (BS EN ISO 13937-2)

5.2.1 Introduction

For the resin treated light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric, its strength would be reduced because of the

strong acidic condition, high temperature during the

processing. Even though wrinkle resistance is preferable

for garment, the loss of tearing strength is a problem.

Therefore, it is important to control the keep the

tearing strength in an acceptable range after the resin

treatment. Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-2,

Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test

specimens is the standard method for describing the

tearing strength of the test specimens.

5.2.2 Result

The result for the Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-2 was

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108

generated according to the standard method stated on the

Charter 3. Methodology.

The tearing resistance for the each sample of the ten

specimens was recorded and calculated by the software

according to the warp direction and weft direction. The

resistances were calculated based on the resistance on

every single yarn by the software. For analyzing the

result, all warp reading and weft reading were averaged

separately.

Table 5-2 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Control specimen Resin treated specimens

Warp: 7.68N

Weft: 5.91N

Warp: 3.69N to 6.35N

Weft: 2.77N to 4.92

Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any

listed parameter had a significance reduction of tearing

resistance in the Standard Testing. It was shown that the

resin treatment within all the listed parameters could

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109

cause the loss of tearing strength on the light weight

100% cotton plain fabric being studied in this project.

5.2.3 Discussion

Different between warp and weft

Fig 5-6 Relationship between warp and weft in

tearing resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-6), the difference in tearing

resistance between warp and weft direction of the tested

specimens were shown. It was shown that the same drying

temperature, resin concentration, pick-up ratio and

curing time, the warp yarn would have better tearing

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

7.00

8.00

9.00

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

Warp

Weft

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110

strength then the weft yarn. This difference would also

be seen on the control specimens. Similar results were

also shown on other treated fabrics.

Therefore, it could conclude that the warp yarn have

better tearing strength then the weft. It was also

confirmed to the other similar testing related to warp

and weft on tearing strength.

Effect of Drying Temperature

Fig 5-7 Relationship between drying temperature and

tearing resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-7), the differences in

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

curing time, pick up %

110ºC

120ºC

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111

tearing resistance between the specimens which have been

dried at 110℃ and 120℃ were shown. It was shown that for

the specimens which had treated by the same resin

concentration, pick-up ratio and curing time, generally,

the specimens dried at 120℃ would have poor tearing

resistance then the specimens dried at 110℃.

There was a trend that for a longer higher drying

temperature, the resin treated specimens would have lower

tearing strength with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, drying temperature, could

lowering the tearing strength of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which was being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

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112

Effect of Curing Time

Fig 5-8 Relationship between curing time and tearing

resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-8), the differences of the

tearing resistance due to the change of curing time were

shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, resin concentration level and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the curing

time increased.

There was a trend that for a longer curing time, the

resin treated specimens would have lower tearing strength

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

60 70 80 60 70 80 60 70 80

30 30 30 45 45 45 60 60 60

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

pick up %, resin level

2 min

2.5 min

3 min

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113

with the other perimeters constant. The trend would be a

lot more remarkable when directly compare the data of 2

min curing time with 3 min curing time.

It shown that the factor, curing time, could cause a

decrease in tearing strength of the light weight 100%

cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this

project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

Effect of Resin Concentration

Fig 5-9 Relationship between resin level and tearing

resistance

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

7.00

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

Curing time, pick up %

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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114

From the above graph (Fig 5-9), the changes of the

tearing resistance due to the change of resin

concentration were shown. It was shown that with the

same drying temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the resin

concentration level increase.

There was a general trend that for a higher resin

concentration level, the resin treated specimens would

have lower tearing strength with the other perimeters

constant.

It shown that the factor, resin level, would lower the

tearing strength of the light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric which was being studied in this project to strain

extent.

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115

Effect of Pick-up Ratio

Fig 5-10 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

tearing resistance

From the above graph (Fig 5-10), the changes of the

tearing resistance due to the change of resin

concentration were shown. It was shown that with the

same drying temperature, curing time and resin

concentration level, the tearing resistance would

decrease when the pick-up ratio increased.

There was a general trend that for a higher pick-up ratio,

the resin treated specimens would have lower tearing

0.00

1.00

2.00

3.00

4.00

5.00

6.00

7.00

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

Re

sist

ance

(N

)

curing time, pick up %

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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116

strength with the other perimeters constant. However,

when comparing with the remarkable difference of the

drying temperature, resin concentration level and curing

time, the effect of pick-up ratio was barely weak.

However, the trend was still able to be shown.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would lower the

tearing strength of the light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric which is being studied in this project. Similar

results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

5.2.4 Conclusion

The result and trend of Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method) (BS EN

ISO 13937-2) is similar and conform to the result of

Stand Testing Determination of tear force using ballistic

pendulum method (Elmendorf ) (BS EN ISO 13937-1).

In this standard testing, it could be shown that with

higher resin level, higher pick-up ratio, higher drying

temperature and longer curing time, the specimens would

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117

have poorer performance in tearing strength. The results

was also confirmed to the expectation in the literature

review in which high temperature, resin, on the duration

of time in high temperature were factors negatively

affect the tearing strength of cotton fabric.

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118

Chapter 6 Dimensional Stability

6.1 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of

Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool (AATCC 96)

6.1.1 Introduction

Dimensional stability is the property for a fabric to

sustain this original dimension after curtain processes.

The dimensional stability could be determined by the

dimensional change. There are two types of dimensional

changes. They are Growth and Shrinkage. Growth is the

dimensional change because of the increase in the length

or width of the specimen. Shrinkage is the dimensional

change because of the decrease in the length or width of

the specimen. Standard Testing AATCC 96 is the testing

standard for deterring the dimensional changes for fabric

which has been subjected by laundering the specimen and

measure the changes of length and width.

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119

6.1.2 Result

The result for the AATCC Test Method 96 was generated

according to the standard method stated on the Chapter 3.

Methodology. The length and width of the three reference

bench marks on each specimen were averaged. The average

length and width three specimens for a set of sample was

then averaged again. For analyzing the result, the

percentage changes in area dimensional change were

calculated for better evaluation. By evaluating the area

dimensional change, both effect of the width direction

and the length direction were evaluated.

Table 6-1 Comparison between control and treated

specimens

Control specimen Resin treated specimens

1st: -0.9%

5th: -1.516%

1st: -0.715% to 0.44%

5th: -0.8% to 0.26%

Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any

parameter had a significance improvement in the

dimensional stability in the Standard Testing. It was

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120

shown that the resin treatment within all the listed

parameters could improve the dimensional stability on the

light weight 100% cotton plain fabric being studied in

this project.

6.1.3 Discussion

Effect of warp and weft

Fig 6-1 Relationship between warp and weft with %

dimensional change

From the above graph (Fig 6-1), the percentage of

dimensional changes in the warp and weft direction were

shown. It shown that with the same drying temperature,

curing time and pick-up ratio, there is increase in width

-2

-1.5

-1

-0.5

0

0.5

1

% d

ime

nsi

nal

ch

ange

Warp

Weft

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121

(weft) and decrease in length (warp).

There was a trend that the warp direction would have a

negative % dimensional changes and the weft direction

would have a positive % dimensional changes. It was shown

that there was “Growth” effect on the weft direction and

“Shrinkage” effect on the warp direction.

Significant shrinkage of warp

During the weaving process, the warp yarn was under

tension to be straight. However, for the weft yarn, even

though it was straight when it was inserted, it crimped

when it was beaten up. When wetted, the high tension wrap

yarn would relax and crimp. It is relaxation shrinkage.

The yarns would readjust themselves for this shrinkage.

Therefore, the crimping would shorten the fabric in warp

direction. There was also relaxation shrinkage on the

weft yarn. However, the crimping effect was a lot lesser.

As a result, after the washing, there was a significant

negative % dimensional change in the warp direction.

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122

(Kadolph 1998)

Growth

For the weft yarn, the relaxation shrinkage effect

mentioned above was a lot lesser. Therefore, the

reduction in length was not significant. Meanwhile, the

increase in length for the weft direction was because it

was because of the hygral expansion of the cotton fiber.

It is a process in which the fiber swells when moisture

is absorbed. The hygral expansion behavior depends

largely on the magnitude of the weave crimp. The effect

of weave construction on the fabric hygral expansion is

very small at high moisture regains; at low regains,

plain-weave fabrics tend to show slightly higher

expansion than the corresponding twill structures of

similar crimp magnitude. (R.C. Dhingra 1985)

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123

Effect of Repeated Laundering

Fig 6-2 Relationship between number of laundering

and dimensional change

From the above graph (Fig 6-2), the percentage of changes

of area after 1st laundering and the 5

th laundering were

shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio, there was a

reduction in dimensional changes when the times of

laundering. For specimens which had growth in the 1st

laundering, the degree of growth was reduced, or even

-2

-1.5

-1

-0.5

0

0.5

1

% o

f A

rea

Ch

ange

1st

5th

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124

became shrinkage. For specimens which had shrinkage in

the 1st laundering, the degree of shrinkage was increased

except the exception cases.

There was a trend that for a higher resin concentration

level, the resin treated specimens would have a reduction

in dimensional changes with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, Repeated laundering, would

cause a reduction in dimensional changes of the surface

of light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being

studied in this project.

The result show there is progressive shrinkage of the

fabric. Progressive shrinkage is the shrinkage which

increases with the number of laundering cycle.

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125

Effect of Resin Concentration level

Fig 6-3 Relationship between resin level and

dimensional change

From the above graph (Fig 6-3), the percentage of changes

of area due to the change of resin concentration were

shown. It was shown that with the same drying

temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio, the

dimensional changes would be lesser when the resin

concentration level increases.

There was a trend that for a higher resin concentration

level, the resin treated specimens would have a better

dimensional stability with the other perimeters constant.

-1.2

-1

-0.8

-0.6

-0.4

-0.2

0

0.2

0.4

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

% o

f A

rea

Ch

ange

curing time, pick up %

Resin 30

Resin 45

Resin 60

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126

It shown that the factor, resin level, would improve the

dimensional stability of the light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric which was being studied in this project.

Similar results were also shown on other treated fabrics.

Effect of Pick-up Ratio

Fig 6-4 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

dimensional change

From the above graph (Fig 6-4), the percentage of changes

of area due to the change of pick-up ratio were shown.

It was shown that with the same drying temperature,

-1.2

-1

-0.8

-0.6

-0.4

-0.2

0

0.2

0.4

30 30 30 45 45 45 60 60 60

% o

f A

rea

Ch

ange

resin level

pick up 60%

pick up 70%

pick up 80%

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127

curing time and resin concentration level, the percentage

dimensional changes would increase or discuses when pick-

up ratio increases.

There was no trend showing that for a higher pick-up

ratio, the resin treated specimens would have a better or

inversed performance in dimensional stability with the

other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would have

limited to rare effect on the dimensional stability of

the light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which was being

studied in this project. Similar results were also shown

on other treated fabrics.

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128

Effect of Drying Temperature

Fig 6-5 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

dimensional change

From the above graph (Fig 6-5), the percentage

dimensional changes due to the change drying temperature

were shown. It was shown that with the same pick-up

ratio, curing time and resin concentration level, the

percentage dimensional changes would be more stable when

the drying temperature increases.

There was a general trend that for a dryer during

temperature, the resin treated specimens would have a

-0.8

-0.7

-0.6

-0.5

-0.4

-0.3

-0.2

-0.1

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3 2 2.5 3

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45

% o

f A

rea

Ch

ange

curing time, pick up %, resin level

110ºC

120ºC

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129

better performance on the smoothness appearance with the

other perimeters constant in general. It could show that

the factor, drying temperature, would improve the

dimensional stability on of the light weight 100% cotton

plain fabric which was being studied in this project.

Most of the treated fabrics show similar results

Effect of Curing Time

Fig 6-6 Relationship between curing time and

dimensional change

From the above graph (Fig 6-6), the percentage of changes

-0.50

-0.40

-0.30

-0.20

-0.10

0.00

0.10

0.20

0.30

0.40

60 60 60 70 70 70 80 80 80

30 45 60 30 45 60 30 45 60

% o

f A

rea

Ch

ange

pick up %, curing time

2 min

2.5 min

3 min

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130

of area due to the change of curing time were shown. It

was shown that with the same drying temperature, pick-up

ratio and resin concentration level, the percentage

dimensional changes would increase or discuses when

curing time increases.

There was no trend showing that for a longer curing time,

the resin treated specimens would have a better or

inversed performance in dimensional stability with the

other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, curing time, would have limited

to rare effect on the dimensional stability of the light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being studied in

this project. Similar results were also shown on other

treated fabrics.

6.1.4 Conclusion

It was because of the small percentage dimensional change

(most are smaller than 1%), the contrasts of result based

on the change of the perimeter is not strong. Therefore,

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131

some effects of the changing from the treated perimeter

were not as remarkable as the other testing. However,

some trend could still be shown.

In the Standard Testing AATCC 96, Dimensional Changes in

Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except

Wool, it could be shown that with higher resin level and

higher drying temperature, the specimens would have

better performance in dimensional stability. Meanwhile,

the effect of pick-up on affecting the dimensional

stability was limited. It was also shown that the effect

of curing time on affecting the dimensional stability was

limited. It may be because of that the fabric being

studied in this project was thin and light in weight. 2

min was long enough for the resin to carry out

crosslinking reaction at the high curing temperature.

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132

Chapter 7 Conclusion and Recommendation

7.1 General Conclusion

In this study, the effects of different resin treatment

perimeters, including resin level, pick-up ratio, drying

temperature and curing time have been explored. The

results obtained lead to the following conclusions.

The experimental results reveal the following findings:

1. There are enhancements on the wrinkle recovery,

smoothness appearance and dimensional stability of the

light weight cotton plain fabric after resin treatment.

2. There are significant reductions of tearing strength

of the light weight cotton plain fabric after resin

treatment.

3. Higher resin concentration level would effetely

provide a moderate wrinkle resistant property on the

fabric, as well as the dimensional stability.

4. Higher pick-up ratio would effectively provide a

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133

moderate wrinkle resistant property on the fabric, as

well as the dimensional stability.

5. Higher drying temperature would provide the fabric

with more stable performance in both the wrinkle

properties and dimensional changes.

6. The effect of increase in curing time on improving

the wrinkle properties and dimensional stability is not

remarkable.

7.2 Recommendations

In the highly competitive garment market, garments which

can fulfill the expectation of customer are preferable.

In order to meeting the demanding quality specifications,

optimizations and modifications are needed for surviving

in the highly competitive business environment.

In this project, the effects of different resin treatment

perimeters, including resin level, pick-up ratio, drying

temperature and curing time have been evaluated. However,

further researches are necessary to improve the existing

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134

technology and develop new technology.

1. Curing time

Since there is no trend for a long curing time would

improve the dimensional stability and wrinkle properties,

the duration of curing time for the crosslinking reaction

and its relationship to the thinness of the fabric would

be further studied.

2. Resin solution

In the project, there is a consistent trend that fabric

treated with higher resin level would have a better

performance in wrinkle properties and dimensional

stability. Solution with higher resin concentration is

recommended to apply in order to find out the saturation

percentage for resin level in anti-wrinkle effect and

dimensional stability.

3. Cotton-blend fabric

In this research, light weight 100% cotton plain fabric

was used for assessment. Other material blending with

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135

cotton in plain woven could be also applied to evaluate

the contribution of cotton and plain structure in

affecting the wrinkle properties and dimensional

stability.

4. Different weight of cotton fabric

In this study, only light weight cotton fabric is

evaluated. It is recommended to further study the resin

treatment in different perimeters on fabric in different

weightiness, such a sheer cotton fabric and medium to

heavy weight cotton fabric.

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Reference

Anand, S.C., Brown, K.S.M., Higgins, L.G., Holmes, D.A.,

Hall, M.E. & Conrad, D. (2002), “Cautex effect of

laundering on the dimensional stability and distortion

of knitted fabrics”, AUTEXResearch Journal, Vol. 2, No2.

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