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Woodsmith Magazine - 038

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  • DEO CABINET DOLL CRADLE

    BU K BEDS:rALE PREP FIRST IN A SERIESON FINISHING

    $2.50NOTES FROM THE SHOPNO. 38

  • ViQODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4,114) Is publ,~hlMlbimonthly (January, March. May, July. September. NOVIJmbar) by WOOdsml1ll PublishingCo.. 2200 Gfand Ave., Des MoJnes, Iowa 50312-WOODSMITH Is a leglsterlMl .""emark olthaWoocIsmllh Publishing Co.ay,I'll make i~easier; AOL.. 's a list of

    some of-the tips:J. 11Ola do 1101. to make a through

    ,""rige.'"mortise and tenon Wok picnn ..'f!6ltect? Cheat" little. I used a filler plugon the ends of the mortise and tenon jointson th" bunk bed. This is a whole lot easierthan h''Ying to cut ,\ perfect mortise, andthen fitling it with, a perfect tenon. SeeFigure 25 on page 15.ll. Okay,1l0W Iltat tlte/ilkr pluJJi".;)

  • 3WOODSMITH

    Ifyou'd iiJ(eto shale .,wood_klng tlpwitholherreaders 01 WOOdsmith. sen-d yOU( idea 10:Woodsmllh, Tips & Techniques, 2200 'GrandAve.. f.)esMoines, Iowa 508t2.We poy a minimum01$10 lor Ifps.~hd$15or

    mor& (or special techniques (U~alare accaptedror publfcal1on), Please give a complete ex-pjanatkll1 of your i(j , II skeich [s need"".send 11along: We'll draw 8 new on9.

    SEND tN YOUR IDEAS

    Bob {,{qr"Lenoir; :VOrlJi Carolma:

    base of the Portalign as a template to markthe screwholes in the top of the routertable and then drilled and countersunkholes for the screws.The depth coDar on the side rod has to

    be removed and placed below the yoke tohold the drill up under the table. The collarlocation can be periodically adjusted if thedrum wears down in one spot.To use it, chuck the correct sanding

    drum in the drill, plug it in, and push theconstant-on button. I find it's a comfort-able height for drum sanding.

    of all the frame pieces. Then Imake a stopblock with the same miter angle cut on oneend. (If one of the scrap pieces Irom theinitial cuts is long enough, L use it as thestop block.) I also cur a rabbet on themitered end to act. as a sawdust ,.lief.Next, I mark the linallength of the piece

    tight against the fence and bring the armforward until it has reaehed .the marl"l10ck the saw a~tllis point, place the fix-ture OV&the arm in front of the S8\\\ andtighten it down. Ilelease the Saw lock andit'R ready to use. As i~'. pulled forward, thefixture will prevent the sa,,' from gOingbexond the indicated point.1'he fixture can also be plaeed behind !.he

    saw, In this position and with a dtill chuckattached to the SRw arbor, I use it as adepth .stop for horizonta! boring,

    Jo CoughlinDoog"e Citell,Tf!'xas

    MITER STOP BLOCK

    One problem I've had when cutling miterjoints for a frame is g~tting the opposingside pieces eo be the exact same length. Ifthey're nOLthe same. there will bea gap inone or more ofthe joints. The t~;C:kis to use stop block.Istart by fasLening an .uxiUal'y fenee to

    the mite.' gauge and cut. miter on one end

    SANDINGORUM

    SANDING ON THE ROUTER TABLE

    Need a steady mount for a drum sanderand don't have a d.rill press? That was myproblem and here's how my Wqod$inilhrouter table proved its worth again.

    I mounted. Portalign with my electricdrill and sanding drum under the table.There are bwo holes in the base of IhePcrtalign that accept 14' x 1!I," Oatheadmacl!ine screws and wing nuts. Iused theNOTE: PORTAUGN HELDUPwITH lWO COUNTERSUNKMACHINE SCREWS

    on the auxiliary fence and clamp the stopblock at this point. The WOrkpiece isturned end-for-end and fit into the spacebetween the auxiliary fence and the stopblock. The block allows me to hold theworkpiece tight and keep it from creepingtoward the blade. Then the remainingpieces that are to be the same length arebrought in against the block and cut.

    Al FerllaldBrevard, North Carolina,

    1 CARRIAGE i~Ol2.!

    t'l' EOAMwrAlHERS-fIUP

    tAPE

    To use the fixture, mark the limit.ofthecut on one end or the workpiece. "'ithouttUI11ing OD-the sa\v, place the \vorkpieee

    STOP THAT SAW

    Since radial armsaws cut on the top of thewood, the blade has a tendency to grab thewood and walk light through a cut. Thiscauses a problem if ~'OUwant to make astopped cuttsuch asablind dado). It'.hardto stop the saw at the correct point.I made. 6xturethat fils over the arm of

    a radial arm saw and stops the saw at apredetermined point. It's made out of twopieces of 4/4 scrap that are 2f' wide and cutto length to accommodate the individualradial arm saw

    J cut. a section OUII or the top piece. tomatch the shape of the arm. Then Iattached foam weatherstrip tape (~") tothe cut-out, to keep the stop from stippingand to protect the arm.The fixture is 'held t.ogether with two

    long carriage bolts, washers, an~ \\lingnuts. A couple spins of the wing nuts andit's off or moved into position.

    Since the serewheads tend to dig into theen(l grain ofthe stock. I always allow extralength and cut orr the waste.

    Gene (;a,';)\/J()1Ie.8C)liSeverlllLPark, MarY/Q..d

    }f8 1C~"FhWOOO~ftEW

    PLANING THIN STOCK

    I enjoyed building the toy truck (Wood-smith No. 3

  • WQO()SMITH

    ... SMRE SAW ro cvr OUT PROFILEOSE IA~OSAW OR

    ,

    4

    toform the endson the rocker -locate thecenter points and draw the radii.

    US SMAll BRAO,IVOI POINT

    from the bottom edge.Alter these points are located, drill y;."

    pilot holes in the template so the location ofthe holes can be transferred onto. the head-board and footboard.

    Ctn'TINC.The last step before cutting outthe pr:onJeis to bore the ....dius corners andhandle holes with a drill bit 01' hole saw.Although this step is optional- depending011whether you have the right sized bit.s-it.'$ an excellent way to produce perfectradius -corners, see Detail B.

    Once the corners are drilled out, useeither a band U\V or sabre saw to cut outthe remaining profile. (To cut out thehandle, 1 used a sabre saw and hand filedthe edges smooth.) Then sand the edges ofthe template smooth with. drum sander.DETAIL a ORllL SMAU RADII

    WITH HOlE SAWOR ORlllllT IF AVAlLA6U Yo-

    r- ~---6MASONITE'

    lIANULB. At this point the template isalmost complete. All that ..emains is thehandle. To layout the handle, first find thecenterline by drawing a 9~" radius arcfrom cenfer point A, see fig. 4. Then drawthe :y.,dia.end holes on this arc, 1%' fromthe centerline. r'inntly connect the to) andbottom edges on the two end holes with~CSJ using pivot point A.

    scnew nOLES.The template is completeab this point, except for six holes that areused later to locate tile screw holes forattaching tbe headboard rd footboard tothe cradle sides. To locate, these holes onlhe template, draw line parallel to bothsides of the template, %" tom the edge,see Ftg. 4. Then mark the posiuon of theholes along this line, 4*", 8o/.c", and lOY-."

    DoH CradleUsually the Ohristmas season ends in De-eember, But this year, it seems to be linger-ing on a while longer. The most recentpost-Christmas project has been a dollcradle for all the Cabbage Patch Kids"adopted" this year,I designed the doll cradle to be a fairly

    simple piece. using basic joinery tech-niques, and requiring only a few hours tocomplete. r also used ponderosa pine tokeep the cradle light enough that even atwo-year-old can can')" it around the house.The cradle c..onsists of five pieces; t' ....9

    sides and a bottom that are joined to theheadboard and footboard. The first step inbuilding the cradle is to make a templatefor the headboard and footboard.

    THE TEMPLATE

    11>make the template, Istarted by cuttinga piece of v.."thick Masonite 16' by 181'>',see Fig. I. Then I laid outlhe profile of theheadhoarcllfootboard.C~"'Elt~JN. The key to laying out the

    profile is tbe vertical centerline, SeeFig. 1.Once this line is drawn, the rest of theprofile ls centered around it.

    IllACONAI,S. Fil'$t. the sides of the tem-plate are formC' do this, first locatecenter point. A on the centerline, 8.:AI fromthe bottom edge. Then dra\v1l10V,radiusare, see Fig. 2.Shop Note: Iused the simple beam com-

    pass shown in Detail A to draw this are,This compass is just a thin ship of woodwith a notch at one end to hold. pencil, anda v.." hole at the pivot point for a brad.

    BOTTO:\tAI{C. The bottom are is drawnthe same way: Locate center point 'B on thecenterline 18' from the bottom edge anddraw an l8'-radius arc, see Fig. 2.

    RADIUSCORNERS. Once, these two arcsare drawn, locate th~ center points for thefour radios c.. met'S at the top of the tem-plate. These radii form the tOI) of thehandle and the shoulders, see Fig. 3.

    Alter the center points are located, use.compass to draw the radius corners on thetemplate. Then to complete the shoulder,draw a tangent line connecting the tworadii on each side.

    Next, follow the same procedure for thefour radii near the bottom of the template

  • 4 Nezt, locate the center pointsforthe small radiitVlltd)'O:lv the.eight radii 1iSi,zg a.s~IUlJl..cOntpass.Then connect:UietangenUJof the radii. at the lop of the template 10!ID.,,, the ./u}uldcrs.

    CON.NEGT y..-DIAMEl. END

    HOLESwrrH ARt.S10 FORlfl HANDlE

    10C,61E,nOJ HOLESfOR SCRE-WS lOeAIE- CENJEItON UNE"N 'fROM StOES--; 1"'.. lV'..... POIN'JS Ofil9~./ c: RADIUS ARC......-I--+-+--~

    +

    2 Locate cellICl'l'oi)!ts A and B on.th centerli" e. Then 1,81119abeanl CO"lpaSS, d.?'CllOtllA i()J/1/' radius lop ~rc 1f.Sing ceniC1'poillt A, and 111$18" radius bottom arc "#119 C.eI'(e>'point n,

    CENTERPOINT AIS 31h" FItOM.BOnOM EDGE

    5WOODSMITH

    3Cemerthe:."d holesfor the kandl all a 9'1,,-adiusIll"01ldCOI,ltIut the topand botto'" edges of th end holes, Then:d'nwa line *" Iron. the sides. arul Locate tlte ~nOlt'llti1lUholes.

    101/,'

    lOCAtJ CNn:~POINTS,6J4D DRAW RAmf USING

    SMALl coMPAss

    ...._ St1,O,",WEIt"'___:UNE

    +I

    CO~HECTTANGEtff$ 0): a~1ITO FORM s.,OtJ I!R OF l'~PI.A'f

    1Dnuu 0,center li"eo'>I. 'PieceQf 'h'Masonire. 1'/!61I dl"OWthe15 diego1wls. sutrlfing Otl tne bott.fml edge .'11/i' /1-0'" C;41lf-er,~,,(ieluJ.illgon the o..tside edge 15'/,'[rom. th. bouom.

    ..''"" _ D'AGONAl

    I1$~"

    ctNrEjIPOINT fi

    12'~"

    18"'j"

    YElTKiAl'~NTEJt.lINE

    USE w- MASONITEFO" TMPlAJ'E

    IS"OIAGONAL

    ~---- __----------~----------------__J~-I---------,o--------ool aNI". toiN't 8 ISI" ,.OM801rOM fOOtMEA.SUIlEMENrS SHOWN

    fOR DIAGONALS PlOD!JCE1$" ANGlE

    The Tem:Rlate

  • WOOOSMITH6

    RGUREs ("'a,w ,\i~~', THEHEADBOARDAND FOOTBOARDUHE t,I, When the template is eompleted, the next

    (ENtH UHES,

    "-.\/HOU5"

  • 7\VOODS~nTH

    the bottom (D). Then plane Or sand the RGURE 13panels smooth and trim the side. 8" wide FOOTBOARD~i'-lCRADLESIDE DEl6l.\ 1-5Y"~.HEADBOARDby IS" long. END r ~'. END""Gl.EO GROOVf..The sides of the cradle I .r, T rr:are joined to lhe bottom with a groove - ... -'. 7angled at 10'. see Fig. 15. (This groove is r ) vl.~ .... 1 1, ~cut at an angle 1lOthe cradle sides \\;11be T' I ~'\parallel with lhe sides of the headboard CONNCT IADIIWItH STRAIGHT UHI '0

    and footboard, see Fig. 18.)1'.'i-. s P'4"

    -4'1." 'Vi 1'Io eut the groove, r used adadobJudc on , ~ ,llOT HOlIES fOR 118 WOOD$CR(WS ~~. --.the table saw and made several trial cuts DEl' CENTfJtlO ON $TOCKuntil the width of the groove matched Ihe L k=!. OAOOfOI AJlACHIHG aonOM, tiE ,toUR 14- ......~ J.thickness of the bouorn, Then I 8juSled 1'. " .~I ..Lthe angle of the blade to 15. and set the .. 1depth of cut 10o.' deep, see Fig. 14. "'hen lo- II - ~the blade is set, atliust the renee to cut agroove y.- from the bottom edge of the FIGU.f 14 [1.0,00 DETAIL 'IGUR~- ~4/;cradle sides, tieTE: MAlCH DADOWIOt)l ~.... CRAO"After the grooves are cut, layout the TOIO"OM fHICJ(N(SS SID.profile on the cradle sides as shown in Fig. TAW SAW \ .r13. Then cut out the profile. drilling the AHe. ~

    ~ ~~radius ccrners fi"'I, and sand Ihe ,)rofile " - .-smooth with a drum sande ... I

    ~ &OnoM t.. f!JDRILL Plun' uoi.es, To join the sides to ClA.IE !the headboard and footboard, (irRt $10 T

    ~~ 'OITO>I_, ::~;counterbore and drill pilot hole. In the ""!."headboard and footboard [01' #8 X l!(woodserews and IV buttons. see t'ig, 16, a CUTTO RTAfTtI _.. ; J[ t.Th d.rill the pilot holes on the ends of the DADOitAOl ..... A5Wo\1aSETAT IS' _i\\~ AllOW Sl'Aet /t.._j~"OEcradle sides. draw a line centered on the fOl EXPANSIONends and mark the 1003,ion of the bouemholes, see Fig, 13, Measure up to the tOI) RGU I. ,1, J. FIGURE"1~ CIRCLES INDICAn "POINTS"holes using exactly the same spacing as the DJUll AND COUNri1l80Rf NDS PRONE TO CHIPOUTpilot holes on tho headboard and loot- fOR #$)( I 'i." WOOOSCREW ( ~ ~board, FinalJ,y,drill %>" pilot holes Y( deep 5'0($ \ ~/~ .~r{Vin the ends of the cradle sides, hCUTBOTnDll. \Vhen the pilot hoi.. are 1lUTTO ",.

    drilled, dry- ass emble the side. to the (j]-; fROl HOLlheadboard and footboard to determine the~

    'v 0 .-.;;::linal width of the bottom, With these If CHtPOUT 'S A PROBlEM. t'-~pieces screwed together, trace the outline

    I#', ROUND OVIIlI'OINTS WITH FIlE r'-:: /of the angled grooves on the headboard \ COUNTfRIOlt1 .,."and footboard, 'rhen disassemble the 'l'" 01' , SHAHK HOll ) '1 00 NOTpieces and measure between the grooves __..0 O~todetenninc the final width of the bottom, j GlUEROL'SDiSGBDGES.The last step i. to &OTT""

    ~ iOSlOESround over all the edges of the headboard, GUlf 17Sfl elT v,.~OEE' '\.~footboard, and lhe 1.Opedges on the sides, TO P.fIOOUtE(I used a y,' round over bit set to a depth of '10" aUlt,NO$E.. -, __..0 00 HOT ROUND"'0- to produce a softened bullnose proflle, ROUND

    ~OVERlonOM

    see Fijr, 17.) OV".~.Ai r ~ _,....._roo. 0' 51"Shop Note: A. I was routing the head-

    .beard and footboard, every time I eame te ../ ,~, ~oneofthe "points" 011 the profile where the I 11 ONLYGWE SIDES to "(~grain direction made an abrupt change, the . HEADBOARD4ND FOOllOAtDwood tended to chip out, see Fig, 18, Th rprevent this, )1011mllYwant to stOI)I'outing MATERIALS LIST CUnlNG DIAGRAMjust short orthc /'points," and round overthis area by hand with" file and sandpaper, OVHOUDI"'en..Jo.ns.: 16"WlI. 14"H.. 19')J"l t .... 7" ... 1#'

    ASSElIBLY. Finally. all the pieces are t:;:~rzzzZZf!!'2 ~ t . ~ready to assemble. Insert the bouem in A Hoodboo'" (1) 0/ 1$.17 0the sides, but don't glue it in place, Only (S p~e ,llJ.o.up pan.l)

    S ..,J"""B 8 W@6 Footboo'" (1) V... 1S.. 17apply glue to tho ends of the cradle sldes, (S pi.ce glued.up ponel) 0then attach the headboard and footboard .~ s'n" .....with #8 xlv.. .. woodscrews. G, Sid" (2) v 8 .. 18 bUWm?",,~Finally. I Iinished the cradle with three (2 pl.(o glued.up pan.1)roots ofThng Oil Varnish, and covered the 0 Bo"om(l) v.. x 70/ ,. C::;:g:",!. ""~ ,,,;i.Wfljscrew holes with ~" buttons. (2 pi.(. glued-up pan.l)

  • WOODSMITH

    flF"";;'SHE"~ ~=UII

    .I,.. ., ~,.

    ~ AUGN FIOH'PDWOOO $ItOUU)(1S_OAO( 01- SMRYES,.J ,

    I-(

    :~"",,"', "r' #:1....... SImII

    /' FtON'DIG(IlAO( fOGi f IIII I,. I ~~ o_ ..00""" """ """""j ,I

    8

    1 i,t."

    ~ CK

    SIDE PANEL (.

    MAlIC STOP UNISfO.GOOOVU ""

    4' j.......::::-=-r

    J. ,......-'.,.~/ ' .. ,y v eIt.LHOUSfOO,...... XTIA SH8I

    I' ....-I...

    ,..1.,

    It used to be that everyone both the front edge and lhe backwanted a cabinet for stereo edge. see Fig. I.equipment. Now it's video )tIOOL GROO"E. The middleequipment. In just the past year. groove is positioned8'''" from thethe number ofreque.18 we've had bottom edge. This groove alsofor this type or stand hag been stops IY. from the fronl edge (tostaggering. align with the top groove). But itThe stand we came up with is extends a little closer to the back

    dl)$ignedto hold a portable tele- edge (stopping 11." from the backvision. and hag a compartment edge) to align with the cabinet',with glass doers for a "ideo re- plywood back see Fig. 2.corder. Wealsoadded a drawer to 801'1'0>1 CROOVE. The bottomstore video cas..seues. greove is positioned 1V....from the

    bottom edge. This groove stop~ESIDES W~~~_.the~me

    10 build this stand. I started by as the middle groove. However.edge gluing enough 514 stock since the bottom shelf doesn't(1y,' thick) to get two side have a tongue or an edging "trip.panels (A) with rough siee of this groove stops Y' farther back22" x 22". When the gille Is dry. than the top two grooves. seeplane these panels smooth. and Fig. 2.trim them to filial dimension" of HOCTGRQOVi

  • 9WOODSMlTJ;I

    NOTE: ~grR~~[t:~7.CAa)NET IS GlUm UP

    ApURf'8

    TONGUESGROOVES

    Ill$T1tAIGRT

    F{NC~

    ItOONO OVER

    r-:::::::::I;?~ TOf' AND6OnOMtOGES'AGURE 6

    "I,VtlNINGSIT

    ,,-., ,l1\"-_L~."S~CE

    a.tnWEfN GR._OOVESCENTE.EO ON_NIl SIllIp

    f'fN(;E

    ~u,GJiOOVEON EDGINGSTRIPS

    FOR lOfI ANDMIDDlE 5HRVIS

    fIGURE s ffNCEFIGURE 11

    GI!l\lNOI.ctfON

    ~_L_1~~----~..~om~------~I-----,.,,-..---..jl1

    TGP SHElf@ v.-IAClJ( TGIIAIN '""""V.- _ __ 01''''''',,, .....,..

    MIDDlE SHElf

    fOJrfGUES ON SlOES 1'9~"~7AFN=O='RO==m==O~N=w~==~=====B

    v.-"ON! ;

    Y.lONG tONGUES TO 8t GROOVU_.II" ~IN SIDESANO,EOGI~ mlf~ ~Q( lOP SHELF fRON'

    ""CK VLI}$)/ _:\\., ,J ,'--=~.CD8OnOM S~eLF 81t'"1. RASI"8Aac'DGINGmlP ,'- '.

    I - FORPlrWOOD MCKTONGUES ON ""' t--"' v.-SIDfS ONlY

    MIDDLESHElf

    v.'

    ;.', 2IV... .,i-----2.y,-------,IAGURE- 3

    THE SHELVES

    Now the three shelves can be cut to \"Ougbsize out of 3/4' oak-veneer plywood. (Inorder to get all tHree shelves out of a4' x 4! piece of plywood, I had to cut thebottom shelf wilh the gl-a in running fromfl'ont to back, see Fig. $.)CV"J'SHEiNP,s TOsrzs. Alter cutting lhe

    shelves to rough size, cut them to a finalwidth of 281'.". Then cut each shelf to thesame length as the corresponding groovein the cabinet sides, see ~'ig. 3.

    EDGING STRIPS

    Before mounting the shelves tothe cabinetsides, 1 cut three edging strips (E) for thelOPand middle shelve. from &/4stock, 1v...wide and to rough length of 29".GROOvES.These strips ru-e joined to the

    plywood shelves with tongue and groovejoints, see Fig. 3. To do bhis, rout, a;4"'...wide. groove in each strip, y,.H downfrom the top edge, see Fig. 4.Shop Note: I routed these grooves on

    the router table so they would match thegroovesin the cabinet sides. This way thetongues can be cut exactly the same on aUedges of the shelves,

    VEINING. Next, rout two =ti"-:wide dec-orative veining grooves- on the two stripsthat go on she front edges of the top-andmiddle shelves, see Fig. 5.ROUNDEDGES. Then to complete the two

    front strips, round the top and bottomedges, sec Fig. 6. As for the strip thatgoeson the back edge of the top shelf, cut aW' x V, rabbet for the plywood back, andround over the top edge, see Fig. 3.

    TONGUES ON SHELVESWhen the edging strips were complete, Iwent back to work on'the shelves. All threeshelves have tongues on the two edges thatjoin to the cabinet sides, 'refer to Fig. 3.The top and middle shelves also havetongues for the edging strips.cIJ1I'1'O:>ICUES.1cut the se tongues on the

    router table, see Fig. 7. Se~the fence andcut two Y..IJ-y.iderabbets, leaving a tonguethat fits snugly in the grooves.Shop Note: As the cuts fer the tongues

    are s:et Ill', make sure the tongues are posi-tioned so the top edge of the edging st.rip isjust slightly above the surface of the ply-wood. Then the soiid-wood edging can besanded down flush with the plywood.

    ASSEMBLE THE CABINET

    After the tongues are cut, dry-assemblethe cabinet to make sure the shelves lineup as shown in Fig. 2. If all fits well, glueand clamp the shelves to the cabinet sides.When the glue is dry on this assembly,

    cut the edging strips to final size (to fittight between the cabinet sides), and thenglue and clamp them to the tongues on theshelves, sec Fig. 8.

  • WOODSMI'r~1

    THE DRAWER

    After the cabinet i~assembled, the drawer fVcan be added. Here lshoutd mention" fewthings about the size of the drawee Whendesigning this project, I actulllly .tartedwith the dimensions of the drawer - making it "ide enough to hold three row. ofvideo tapes, Then I built.the cabinet so thei>18iJk width accommodated a drawer withthere measurements,

    CIT PIECES TOSIZE. This drawer is eon-strueted using' ~. stock for aU four sides.Then later a false front is added. To start.rip the pieees for the front. back and sidesto eommon width of 4~.... rig. 9.Then rut the sides (G) to a length of 1&'.'Ihe- critical measurement is the length

    of the front and back pieces (F), Measurethe distance between the cabinet sid.. andsubtract I' for the drawer slide s,

  • 11

    K0 v. ,t-c I ,.' .

    /

    ~

    I fI ......."I'W

    I';]I H 1 H tl1 G I G n

    ,...... S",,- 60

    I A !_..;;.'_..IIlS"." J.'l.' .:. .:::..,...,~ __ -,r " I Q. I

    LA. I As C:::]1',.- II $' ,.r

    CUmNG DIAGRAM

    .. $idft (2) 1v, '1.211f, Top SMIf (1) .IJ' 11'1. _"1/.C MIddle SMIf (1) v 19'1t - 2.Y.0 Ioltom She..-(1) ~. " 1f1'(._28'/.f EdgIngSrrips(41 1V, 1V...'7'/.F Orowo, flmtl80ck (2) 'A. 4'n ..261/.G Draw., Side. (2) '11.4'1,_15H Drawe, Dividers (2) 'n."" 13VtI Draw., Iottom (1) '/ 13~ 26',4J fol Oraw.,- F1nt. IV,. x 6'1 27-VeK flo '1... 191/ 2~.

    WOODSMITH

    ""4'j/_ ~ ,

    r AUGN lOGi 0' II' WITH, EDGEOFCORNt. MOll

    :~S","'GHr." - -

    I Ill3:oa,U. \'...014 HOl!t AT tACH CORNEa---- ------ -

    I~ ~-

    MATERIAlS UST

    $PAC IlOClt

    ..... . .-...~'

  • \RGUIf C

    t

    WOODSM1TH

    ..flu-MORlISE DEtAILI

    + I

    3"

    cnru. JWO INDHOlES RItST~--.-,-"",~...

    CROSS t.AllS J11 ~...,.

    NOTE: "1+USI S..

    (I' - STOOC)

    t

    .tvMOllS '0.SfDltoAIt

    trI

    .... twO I "I'.,_n.

    HOUS.....O((f

    II'

    '1 U2

    I

    12

    ,

    I

    THE UPRIGHTS

    I started by cutting tho uprights fOI' theheadb ca ,,1 and roolboa"d out of 61'1 oak(lY,,' thick actual), The IWO uprights (A)for the headboard are 4" wide by 31" long,and the uprights (8) for the footboard nrc4" wide by 28" high. see F'ig. 1.

    MO"TIS>:S. AIle,' the uprights nrc cut tosize, through mortises arc cut tor the crossrails. These mortises arc made by drilling.series or ""dia. holes, centered on thewidth or the uprights. 1.'

  • '13WOOOSMITH

    see Fig. 3. Although tbese holes aren't I I""u" > SHOtJU)fa.1().$HOU.O(I MfASUIfMH1 3" GHAJD THAN'MOTHOf ~used until later (to join the bed's side ....._-boards between the headboard and foot

    ~-

    ',,

    tlrboard. refer to Fig. 29). I drilled them now CRQSS RAILwhile it's easy ee ge~ to this area. USE s. .. (1VI" STOCIC)MrASOHMENTS SHOWN ARE fOil 37'h~MAmlfS5THE RAIL5 .r I , , mI Next. the uprights are joined lOl(ether 4'2" - ,"~lithL\vOcross rails CCl. These rails arc 6" AGORE 6 " "';''::::::::~_r ~..wide uncitheir length is determined by two ,~, Irtl~~.OHIhinJ!ll: I) the width of the mattress, and 2)

    ....* rtNON. "C'the length of the tenon s, '.lONG f AlIt', best to get a measurement from the atnaD 0

    mattress you're going to use. (The Sears ON SlOOC- tROSS RAIL - -~

    , ~mall ress I used is 37~ wide.)Measure ~)the width of the mattress and add 3" to get 1lOUN .,... kth I,o"ld.rto-shoulder length of the =.w._./ ~jl -:: ""rails, see ~ig. 6. (The additional 3' allows Ifor the two side boards plus a little clear- - !. U,.JOHf I-ance for the mattress.) FlOUJl 8Now .del the length of the two tenon s, ONE"teE IHI$ Sttll MAKES

    Since the mortises go all the way thl'Ollgh TWO HtAOlOAII:O StATS -- - ...jthe uprights. the tenons would normally be I.'

    .fr= l'cut lonl( enough to also go all the way . - - - 1.

    through. But Idecided to cut the tenons r- - - '0) ~..nIT CUT'M ".as '~ CUTTHItD IIKlSv.' short - to leave room Cor. filler plug. ~.':l 'HISSill 1 1111$ Sal""fer to Fig. 25. (This is an easy way to get .i o. perfect fit on the end of the tenon lhat - 0Hl Net THISSUI MAlIS~ .....::- ~ fOOt fOOt1OAl:D SlAlSshcwa through the mortise.) ....... 1~Cll"TII RAIL.Now the rail can be cut to

    fiMllength. see Fig. 5. Then cut tenons on RGUOf -" .~both ends to fit .nugly in the morti .... see ~-", . ~ ',' IESAWING ON WLE SAWl'lll. 7. (Refer to lVood$mitJ, No. 26 for" 1 USE

    stepbystep article on culling a mortis. - RAStl IU!SAW __. PUSH SflCKnnel tonon.) I'N"" PieCIIN" HAlf .. ,Ie, ~ 'J 1-

    THE SLAT5 (-=:"" '~B;- - ~~- ~fii'!. ~ ~Before jOining the cress rails to the up- . '. '" .\\.(-~- ~- ,:~:... ./rights. the slats have to be cut. To make SKOHD- l'l.$.A.w IOrHthe 10 slats (D) for the headboard. start fIfCE$ 10fINAl. '"'""''" ""_lOA%,ON fINAL MSS , ~\\ith five pieces of 514stock 2" "'ide by 16'

    "long. see Fig. 8. The 10 slats (E) for the AGVU "footboard can be

  • \\OODSMITII14

    SPACER STR.IPS

    To complete the headboard and footboard.the notched spacer strips (F) have to beeutto hold the slats.

    MARKOAOOIlS.To make these notehedstrips, start with a piece of 414810Ck2~wide and trimmed to length to match theshoulder-to-shoulder length of the c~rails (C), see .'g. 21Now mark the boundaries of the 2"-wide

    dadoes along this piece. starting at thecenter and working toward. the ends, seeFig. 15, (\\'ork [rom th. renter out 10 geteven spacing at the ends. no matter hewwide the mattress is.)

    CL' OAOOES.Aft.". marking th. JlO"itionof all the dadoes, [ started 10 cut them.Unfortunately, 1 found that the workpiecehaa a tendency to slide as the cut was beingmade. To prevent this, [attached a fcn.olOthe miter gauge. Then clamped a slop toone end and used the rip fenee at the etherend 10 define the limits of '.he dado. seeFig. 16.Shop Now: Since the dadoes are spaced

    equally from the center out, eUI one of thecenter dadoes first, then Oip the bo.. -daround to cut the dado on the other sid. ofthe center line,

    CUTSPACERSTRlPS. When all the dadoesare cut, rip this piece to fonll the fourspacer ships, sec Fig. 17.Rip ea eh strip IIIwidlh to fit snugly ill the greoves ill theCI'OSSrails. Theil resaw then' ,0 Sil.()(.'Ig.18) so the top edge of the strip is nuoh withthe edge or the rail.When the strips iiI the grooves, glue

    them ill place. (Avoid USing100much glue-it might see p into the "mortises,") Whe ..the glue is dry, run the rail through the sawto trim the tops of the spacer llU5hwith themil, see Fig. 20.

    ROUND EDGES AND ASSEMBLE

    The last step before assembling the head-board and footboard is 10round the cornersand edges of the uprights and rails.

    ROL'NOEDGES.First, round the cornersof tho uprights to a 'I. radius. ( used qaarter-to mark the radius, sec o.tail A inFig. 21.. Next, all the edges are roundedwith a V, reund-over bit on the routertable. see Detail B in Fig. 21.Before assembly. finish sand .11 the

    pieces - especially the slats, Also, SCTC"threaded inserts in the top holes near thebottom rail. ref.". to Fig. 29. (Sec Woodsm#.h No. 30 for a good technique for In-stalling inserts using a drill press, )ASS&~I8LY.Now dry-assemble lhe up-

    rights and rails 10 get the final length rorthe slats. Afier the slats arc cut to length.mount them between the "mortises" on theedges of tbe ralls. (Don't usc any glueherc,just let the slats "float" in the moruses.)Then glue and damp the mortis. and tenonjoints (the uprights and rails) together,

    NOTe,00 HOT

    GUlf 5WS.."""""

    OONOf"""NOOVU'"-

    Tor IAli

    NOTE,RUN caoss JtAl\

    THROUGH SAW TOCUAN UP fDGE

    CRQSS SErnOtl

    fiNe!!r ".

    R$AW $fR:JPS

    10'" """"OFGROOvt

    .R. , (i)$PACE~mJfTQP VIEW + lAY OUTAlL ML

  • CROSS SECTION

    GlU"",,- @DOWEL1v...., . \.l~ \

    I

    !s.;NOTE:lT,..Y BE @'

    NECESSARY TO TRIM END r -:to AUgw HOW; i ' ,

    TO ON. UP ',LI.L)I

    UPRIGHT

    FIG 11129

    3

    DO NOT ROUNDOVER THIS EDGE-,

    4 >T+-~J;nr~.ou-,.-.-O-..~8rl:.WI E~S- W!'fH '/"o ItOUN().OVU SIT

    :...'DIt11i. ntltotJGH

    fACE SIDE W1TR -'(I. In'21

    i-

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    NOTE; 0"' 'IO.OOAllOI" LONGERTHANfM.m~S5

    SCRtw '/,{'I'M$ONITElASE ON ItOUTQ

    I I

    _,..,-UPRIGHT_~_,-',

    '15

    _Jf':][ II'~/IAtJ-"- - '/~"tlOUNo.OVER~T

    FtGUJlE-4S

    ftOU~OOVERAU. EOGES

    Of MoRTIS6PlUG

    AQUIIE 24 : ROU'" fABlE

    ""c-- "',,:.

    .y.... I ~.-;If" . < lJ' ~ 1- cur TO lNGTM 01 MORnSE __ASSEMBLEDMORnSE PLUG

    1!l00mSE PlUGffRST CUT!!tEa

    fRYO THREE STRIPS

    FeGtUIE13 I _ rC~l'RASTlNG WOOOSTRiP:

    y."-"l r-r't' 0' j-Y'-,

    WOODSMlTH

    MORTISE PLUGS

    41\51menbioned earlier, I cut the>tellons onthe cross rails Y4'" short. to allow for (leC01"3-live fillerplugs at. the ends of the mortises.(Ills a lot easier to cut these plugs to fib themortise perfectly than itis to cut the OOl10nto fit.)To make these plugs, rip a piece of oak

    into three strips, see fig. 22. Theil I c,utt.\VO strips otwalnut to simulate the ends ofwedges (to make the joint. look like awedged mortise and tenon joint).

    Laminate these five pieces together. andwhen the glue ,is dry, reS3\V this piece tomatch the width of the mortise (W). ThenI;P ie to size I() match the height of themortise, refer to Fig. 23.

    Now here's where all t,ruswork pays off.Round the e.dges of Ihis tiller plug on therouter table with a ~" round-over bit. SeeFig. ;24. This will make a perfect fit. withthe drilled end holes of the mortise.

    ~I01JNTPLUG. Cut off 'Yo"longslices ofthe laminated stril) and glue them into themortises. Than there's one more trick, 1bsmooth the plug flush with the face of theupright, cut a ~I.sonite bas. for tbe routerand glue two y..lhick Masonite spacerpads to the base, see F'ig. 26.

    Mo.unt. y,' straight bit in the router andset t.h. depth to cut flush with the spacerpads. Now the endsotthe plug~Ileasily berouted flush with the.face of the upright s,

    THE SIDE BOARDS

    At this point tbe headboard and footboardar e,complete. Alilhat's needed ore the sideboards (0) thatrun the length of the bed.The side boards are 5' wide and cut tolength so they're l' longer than the lengthof the mattress, see ~'ig. 27.

    ORIJ,LHOI.ES. After the side boards-arecut to size. holes are

  • 16 WOOOSMITH

    J 'A~ OFORAM,.)i1

    I )- FIG"". >61 ,,,(. ....wu ......DSMI'Ill20

    I'm really talking about threedifferent things here: dents, wherethe wood cells are crushed; chipswhere the wood cells are actuallymissing; and gouges and scratcheswhere the wood cells are severed.

    DENTS. If a blunt object (like ahammer) strikes a piece of wood,the wood cells are crushed and col-lapse into their hollow centers. Allthe cell walls are still there, butthey're compressed. Tha!!. a-dent,Sometimes a dent can be raised

    back to it!s original level by simplyapplying a drop of water to it. Thewater flows into the ,\109d andswells the walls back to their orig-inal shape. If the water needs alittle help in order to penetrate thecell walls, Imay prick the spot witha pin.

    Or I use an-iron.T take a piece ofdamp cloth or paper towel, Pitt itever-the eeiaUy stain, won't penetrateinto the wood. It ends up looking like thepiece has chicken pox.The problem is lhat some of these glue

    Finishing: Surface PreparationBEFOREYOU FINISH, THIS IS WHERE TO START

  • 21WOOOSM1TH

    CIlf.C~ FORSltE.>RS.One of the mo.'!difficult problems to cateh i. a lijtht gluesmear. To cheek for these. wipe or "pray afine mist, of naphtha over the surface,(Naphtha i. aclearnon-stainlng liquid thatwon't rHise ~hegrain.)

    TACK RAGS, To make youl' own tackrag. use 11 piece of cheeseelcth, n cleanhandkcrt:hief. or a well-washed diaper.Saturate the doth with turpentine andwring it out thoroughly. Apply .t"",""" or\ami.h across the cloth. roll it UP. andwring out completely. Continue adding\'ami,h until it's evenly distributed in therag and the rag feels sticky. not gummy.Stor" in a sealed jar Qr Zip-lock bag so {.herag stays tacky.\Vben using a tack rag. fig/lily wipe the

    entire surf_ or all dust. Don't rub hard orthe vam;'h \\ill be deposited on tb. work-pieee and interfere with finishing.

    RE'10,'L'

  • WOODSMITH22

    On these joints I wam the rwo pteces to belevel across their fares, Sal\(ting."""", thejoint doesjust' that, In this ease it's almost 1'1'-a necessit) to sand across the grain on oneof the pieces since it's difficult to come to ahalt right at the joint line.Tom Eckstein explains his method for

    sanding miters, "1 sand the corners acouple grits finer than Iwould normally.What happens is that I still sand aero." thegrain on one or the frAme pieces but I'msanding with such n fine grit that it doesn'tmake much ctiITercncc."ShOlu,11 ",1M 1M {lmill by wettin!J th

    I.od and the.t rand it ofT! Wetting thefibers allows !lny cell walls that have beenpressed down or d.maged from sanding toswell and stand up. Then you can let it dJ'),and remove the whiskel'$ by nding at aslight an((le to the grain with 180 gritsandpaper;To be honest, Idon't find it necessary;

    The only exception to thtl; would be when Iplan on Using a water-based stain or dye.Then it's nece~I")' or the stain or dye ,\;Umi.. the grain when it's applied,M."OI"G JJI~-n;.A couple final thoughts

    on sanding, When u,ing a pad (or palm)sander be sure that the sandpaper can'tmove on the bottom of the pad, Tom Eck-stein explains, "You onl~'generate so muchpower in the 111Ql()rand if you let it slipbetween the pad nnd the sandpaper you'regenerating h:cproject and soften Ihe shar] edge.(technically, the !I'Tises ), I don't reallyrollnd them, but just make one P;ISS tobreak them with 120 l.'1'itpaper. It removesthe knife-sharp edges, hell>' prevent splln-tars, and gives a comfortable feel to thepiece. In addition. surface finishes usuallywill rub right off a .harp edge.

    FtNAL tNSPECTIONThe last bit of advice can be summed up inone \\'01'(1: patience. Don't rush into, ap-plying the lini.h, I ..uk. one last inspection for any )'t'lunining problem areas. Istart by brushing off the mf\jority of thesanding dusL and Lhen lightly wipe the\ ..'hole piece cto\vn \vith n tack l'llg,With .lIlhe dust off, any final mistakes

    e,' pt",blemij become

  • 23\VOODSMITII

    As ~fOllmentioned, one \\1(1)' 1.0 help prevcnt the top from cUPl,ing is to attachcleats across the width ofthe 1111.The thingto ,.. member when using cleats is that theymust s(ill allow the top to expand andcontrac!, while at the some time help keepthe top fi1)m w'lrping.The way I do this is to cut an ove",ized

    shank hole for thc woods.rcws. This allowsthe wood""rew room to move ,,;th the lidas it. expands and contracts, \\'hile at thesame time keeping the cleat tight againstthe lid to resist warping.Although uoing cleats will help prevent

    some of the cul'ping, this i$n't a cure-all.Under severe conditions, the wp may stillcup to a paint. (AIIA!rall. part oCthe joy ofworking ";lh I!Olidwood is that it's stillalive enough to move.)

    "'-t.....,-t'jII '"USiOVlft$lUD ~l ~SHAHX' ttOU IN . .. - I -CtW> 10 AllOW J -

    -~~~, _--

    Joe CuttcicSault Sit. Mario, Ontario

    This winter. we had exactly the same prob-Jem. Slowly but surely, the top on the cheststarted toCUI'.And befcre lcng, there wasa 0/,. gap between the lid and tho r,,,,nt ofthe chest.

    I C07lfacted a local cabi".! .hop, andlhey erplai".d I/ral the dry air ill.ide ourhOltSf WG3"'( able to C;rcl~lat~iJISide thechest. Thi8 call8cd a lnoistttr6 '1'10014,1C6bet'IUCe-l'l)lO ''tlside Ulld out8ide faces of1Ir.e lid.On Ih. outside ttop) lace, Ihe lid i8 ex

    posed to tllcdry i1rl.eriorai); altttsh?iltkSQSit dries out. On tlte ~'tlsidc face, IQhel'e/,here'. tiul if allY cirClI/alioll of lire dryinterior air. ttte lop rt"loi,t8 008"icallgtne8al1te. The mId reBult Qj'thi' iUlbolallce isthat Ihe lop Cllrl, up. 01'Clip,.The cabi"el ~hap I tatked 10 8'Ilgge8led

    altachillg cltal. 0>1 tltt ill.id. fou oJ lhelid uhelp hold ilflot. IVhal 0011011thillk.i$ Ihio tlu! a'13ll9 bil.

    rJIt'_S'EAItS

    RABDITI'T LA

    '-\" SEARS III!AI(INGe

    THl UUSIVI 'I," RABBlT BIT111Wood.mith No. 96. yall ",,,"tiolled thatYOlthad bcM,/ookillg [or carbidelipped.bat! bearillll'~rbbcli"g bjt to .ut Ii 'h-widerabbet. I ,..." Info th_ Sallie p/'obl6?14butI'll(! C01'lC ItP fuii/( (I .!fOI1'iO)l.IVlral I did It'a8 pllw:ila.t Ie Sear 'i/

    carbidctipped rl.f,bel bit (#9GT!lij5~,$12..$9catalog price). I also purchasedthearbor se1(N90T JoS95,$6.09call1lO9price)Jor lite robb

  • ,got a group or woodworkers together toshe"v them his ccntinulng shop project. aone-quarter tiO\leeolleetlon of early Amer-ican tools. Thiti assoeiatlon sprang fromhis presentation and has grown to over 30members. (f you are interested. contact.Cleo Me Donald, President, 9421 NW 42ne surface and use a variety 0( fln-ishing material$. Then th.""s a descrip-tion explaining when, where, and how touse eocit of the product. they carry. Thetatalog i. available (or $2.60 from WoodFinishing Supply Co" 1267 Mary Drive,Macedon, NY 14502: (315) 986-4517.

    BOOK ON FINISHINGIn researching the ar tiole on preparing thesurfaee we found on excellent bOok aboutp,-el)aring the sUI'fMO,refinishing, and fin-ishing. 1V.0tl fI,$.32 each,for bunk bed s, Four more Threaded

    Insert. (same M specified above). Elite(kltockdoll"') Filliug. (4), 04170. $.50each.For drawers nud drawer guides: Six

    more 7'h"caded iI'8~rl8(same 8$ specifiedabove). i!" Plate Ca,te,.. (2 sets), OrderNo. Cl143 (black), $16.40 per set of four.We I)u.-.:hnsed the mllci.;lIebolts (ls(8), Bireh, V,", Order No. BIOll, $1.25per 50,

    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