Wits' End Dog Training MethodIntroduction

e Wits' End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, comprehensivebehaviour modification/obedience and protection training technique available anywhere...

And now, it's FREE!!! It's copyright 2002 information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use itoften; use, copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all.

Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, systematic, andunconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, too large, too small, toostubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train.

Specializing in problem dog behaviour compelled us to research new methods to instructhumans as well as canines. All dog behaviour problems are caused by our ineffective andinappropriate efforts to control their predictable, innate, normal, natural, instinctive,reflexive responses to circumstances of their environment we create for them. Noteveryone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can live with, startingtoday, not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures, not when it's too late!

is requires a basic understanding of how your dog thinks and learns. at, and the"Family Pack Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command,are all that one needs to effectively control the companion dog.

e mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. ey are instinctivechallenges to your leadership and authority.

Wits' End Dog Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase oftraining, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet to convince himyou are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do anything you ask.

Wits' End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and works with every time, with everycanine, even wolves!

e ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. Our enlightenedmethods challenge the learning centres in your dog's brain.

ese centres develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits' End Dog Trainingcapitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindlesshours of forced repetition, bribery, constant corrections, and scolding.

is manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn to properly handle and trainyour dog. We will address the most difficult behaviours with safe effective tools, realanswers, and common sense advice. Successful completion of our program means you willnever need another dog-training lesson again!

We train you to use the most effective, positive, intelligent formulas, based on scientific,psychological, and behavioral principles, and accelerated learning techniques.

We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to apply our forty years of knowledge andexperience to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the first time, every time!

How is Wits' End Dog Training Different? Wits' End Dog Training methodology is notconcerned with "training," but rather teaching the development of the thought process,moulding and safeguarding the proper development of personality, stable temperament, andgood character.

e first thing you may notice is the lack of confusing psychobabble. Sure, it's almostimpossible to avoid any use of psychobabble, but there's no need to complicate learningnew information with unnecessary technical jargon.

In an effort to eschew obfuscation, and, for your enjoyment, we have provided a list ofseveral psychological components of behaviour. It is helpful to realize that such terms exist,if for nothing else but to reassure yourself that there is a basis for some things we'll bediscussing.

You'll find the terminology "eschew obfuscation" listed near the end of part one of thismanual, to help make things more understandable, and lots of other tips and examples.

Wits' End Dog Training is accustomed to criticism from a variety of pet professionals.Holding different values is not a crime, although sometimes it might be considered a sin.

Consider how you would feel if you'd spent years studying at our best universities, only tobe shown by a simple, uneducated dog trainer, that your education is obsolete, that you'vemissed the point?

You'd respond, "What degrees do you hold?" Forty years ago this trainer chose no longer totrain dogs according to the techniques available. It simply wasn't worth doing. Oneexperience of souring the spirit of a beautiful, troubled dog, while following the best adviceavailable from the most accredited sources anywhere, was enough for him.

Today, the state of the art in dog training industry remains about the same. Modern dogtraining has undergone little change since its inception in this country as a sport at the endof World War II, except to have gotten WORSE with the advent of the pronged spikedpinch choke and shock and aversive spray devices. e methodology was and still is basedon the military model utilized on the Nazis' command dogs. Fortunately, this trainer'sfamily, being in the kennel business, provided many more troubled dogs that didn't have thealternative to decline training.

Necessity, being the mother of invention, prevailed.

ere had to be a better way. I was at my Wits' End, still am, and now you can be too! Wewill never recommend seeking outside assistance or books, abuse or use of unnatural,artificial, or abusive training aids like electric shock collars, choke collars, spiked collars,scolding, staring, glaring, shaking, reprimanding, finger pointing, gourmet food recipes usedfor bribery, threats, intimidation, physical force, sharp commands, punishing sounds,punishment of any kind, or deviation from the Wits' End Dog Training Method. It onlytakes one lapse of judgment to subvert the deep trust established through our work. Foodbribes, or treats associated with training, although generally endorsed by traditional trainers,

is strictly against everything we are trying to impart through our unconventional approach.

Getting results at the expense of the higher attributes of learning is, we think, ignorant anddangerous. Any time your dog is more concerned with his gut than your desires, you couldbe the next course on the menu. We're training companion animals, not pigs.

For obvious reasons, there are very few training aids we can endorse. e head halter is goodif used properly. e product called Gentle Leader is NOT gentle, nor does it lead. einstructions for fitting the device INTENDS to force control and HURT when "necessary."

ere are many more reasons that we cannot endorse any books or publications regardingtraining tips. We recommend not reading other training guides until you fully comprehendthis method.

Dogs, being pack animals, not unlike the human family, have rules dictated by nature. Wewill capitalize on their natural instincts, and, knowing the nature of the beast, be preparedto anticipate all of your dog's options to cooperate or subvert your efforts to control him.

Your dog's job is to oppose you. Your job is to negotiate then compromise; ask for more,then give up; move to one of the appropriate defaults, and then return to your originaldesired request.

Canine logic and strategy dictate our methodology.

Everything has a rational outcome that is arrived at through the process of elimination ofundesired possibilities through a default system. Using this approach we eliminate stress,confrontation, and otherwise negative influences in the training session.

All we need to do is to establish a smooth flow of information and allow thoughts to flowfluidly, maintaining an open dialogue without becoming focused on the desired command,or getting stuck in a confrontation.

You are going to teach your dog an entire concept, not just a simple, trite command. We aregoing to obtain strict discipline without giving the sense of being strict or disciplinarian. eWits' End Dog Training Method breaks ordinary dog training rules, not a dog's spirit.

e Wits' End Dog Training MethodJerry HoweCopyright 8/24/2002Phone: 1-888-WITSENDPhone: 1-407-425-5092ePuppyWizard@EarthLink.netMSN Messenger: doggydoright@hotmail.comhttp://www.doggydoright.com

PART IMethodology

ere are a few prerequisites to obtain results that will last a lifetime: Nothing will beaccomplished without first building the foundation. Addressing behavioral problemswithout establishing these fundamentals will waste time and further entrench misbehaviour.Causes of failure may be:

Over training, or practicing training sessions longer than directed. Our weekly (latermonthly) training session is no longer than 15 minutes. Daily training (may be every otherday) sessions take only four minutes.

Training your dog in his backyard (don't make him work in his "free area").

Not taking the time to be certain of your next move. Not taking time to plan your bestmove. "Telegraphing" your next move. Misreading your dog's intent. Interrupting your dog'sthought process. Physical contact of any kind while he's thinking. Failure to praise every eyecontact your dog makes with you (every time your dog glances over toward you requiresspontaneous non-physical praise). Generally not understanding the psychology involvedwith teaching your dog to think, learn, rationalize, and solve problems. Being goal-orientedis a major error. We have a methodology based on defaults. We expect you will find somerefreshing and incredible differences in our system, quite opposed to what have beenformerly held as traditional truths.

Don't make learning this information any more difficult than need be. Just relax, and don'ttry to commit this text to memory. You'll probably learn what's important on your firstreview of this material.

ere are some confusing thoughts that will become clear as you proceed. en you may goback to the specific techniques to practice, so don't try to get it all at once.

Don't expect your pet professionals to understand or accept our philosophy, we've tried.We don't accept theirs. Just understand they are only doing what they were taught.

Follow our system, not their logic. Once your dog recognizes your goals, you lose. Lose?YES. Everything is different at Wits' End.

Surely you'd think we'd want our dogs to recognize our goals, but does Macey's tellGimbel's?! We want our dogs to work for us. To work this system, one must expect thingsto happen, allow for errors, and regard any effort, even an attempt to leave, as positiveeffort. You will soon learn that any effort or energy, even negative, can be converted topositive.

Be consistent, and never try to make things happen.

Dogs don't like to be made to do things for no good reason. Dogs are much smarter thanmost trainers and behaviourists believe. e ability to think, rationalize, and solve problemsare learned qualities. Most of your dog's mistakes are an integral part of learning, and arewelcomed here, as an opportunity to teach and provide a positive learning experience.

Common Misunderstandings

It seems everybody tells their dog "don't do this or that." What he hears is only "do this orthat." Dogs don't understand the concept of "don't do something."

You'd communicate more clearly with your dog by simply distracting him with a very brief,random sound and telling him he's a good boy.

It's going to take you a while before you feel comfortable telling your dog he's doing good,when you've just caught him doing something wrong.

ere is a system here.

e problem is that most people think like people. Most dogs think like dogs. It's allexplained in the chapter entitled "Learn Today." at you can't correct a mistake after ithas happened is another fallacy that will be dispelled in the chapter entitled "Using SoundTo Break Bad Behaviour."

One of the most common behavioral problems we hear is when your dog barks incessantlyat people approaching your home. Most people find themselves fighting a losing battle,trying to stop their dog from barking aggressively at the door, fence, window, etc... Here'sthe scenario. Dog says: "Warning, warning, there's someone out there!" You say: "Stop atNoise!" Dog says: "But there is someone out there!" You say: "Get Off e Door, You'reScratching It." Dog Says: "ey're Coming In! You're Not Listening To Me." You Say:"You're Not Listening To Me! You're Scratching e Door! ey're trying to come In!"Dog Says: "I'll Save You! Just Let Me rough is Door!" You say: "Now I'm really mad!You're scratching the door! I Can't Have em In With You Acting Like is!" Dog Says:"Me Too! I'm Really Mad! Just Let Me rough is Door! I Can't Have em In If eyAre So Upsetting To You!" e situation continues to worsen; as the dog does what heknows is best for his home and you. e dialogue just continues to become more confusing.e more concerned you become about his behaviour, the more he believes you areworried about these unknown persons. Your upset will make him protective. He doesn'trealize that it's his behaviour you are worried about. Here's HOWE the scenario should be:

Dog says: "Warning, warning, warning, there's someone out there!" You say: "GOOD BOY!Who's there?" Dog says: "I don't know, but you'd better be careful!" You say: "Good boy, Ican see them, it's friends." Dog Says: "I Don't ink So, You'd Better Be Careful!" You say:"I can see who it is, they are friends, you're a good boy." Dog says: "Cool! Maybe we'll havetea and biscuits!" Most dogs are simply not validated for their efforts at doing their job, andso many problems are a result of just such misunderstandings.

We have ways of dealing with all kinds of behaviour, those we can observe, as well as thosethat (in most cases,) occur when we are not present. Most trainers agree that you cannotcorrect your dog after the fact. eir logic is that dogs can't remember mistakes theycommitted earlier, perhaps only earlier today. If this is the case, then how do you thinkdogs can remember a "lost" toy, hidden under a piece of furniture many weeks after it hadgotten misplaced? Do you really want to believe he cannot remember doing somethingmischievous earlier today?

Here are two more misunderstandings about dogs: "He would never bite." Although most

dogs never do bite, you can never be sure that any dog, no matter how well you know him,will never bite.

"Wagging tails are an indicator of mood or temper." Wrong again! You can determine someinformation by observing a dog's tail movement, but don't count on it to tell you about hisintent. Some things you'll be able to determine are how comfortable he is with the

command or situation he's in. If the tail is kept tightly underneath, this means he's veryuncomfortable, nervous, or scared. If the tail curves around the flanks when he's sitting orlying, this shows he's somewhat comfortable. If it is straight out behind him, this indicateshe is very comfortable and eager to be working with what we're asking of him. If he issitting on it, with a slight curl at the base, this indicates he's in the process of learningsomething.

Learn Today!

Today, you will learn to use and become proficient with the "recall" or "come" command,through the installation of a conditioned reflex. Conditioned reflex can be used to teach anycommand, but for our purposes at this time, it will only be used for "recall," or "come," as itis not useful in the development of higher learning and thought processes.

How Dogs Learn

Dogs can learn and UN-learn any behaviour in four properly conducted repetitions. Takento its extreme, these four repetitions should be performed in four different places with fourdifferent but similar situations.

EXAMPLE: e first time your dog hears a new command, he probably has no idea what isbeing requested. When he hears the command a second time, he begins to comprehend.e third time, he fully understands, but dogs being dogs, he is going to resist the newcommand.

is hesitation is called a learning plateau.

Learning plateaus require a few moments to sort and file information, not unlike yourcomputer. I get easily frustrated with these computers, because unlike humans and animals,I expect a command to my computer to be followed immediately. But even at the speed oflight, commands need to be sorted out to go to memory. Just like your computer asks, "doyou really want to delete this file?" your dog does the same. is usually happens on thethird request, or instance, of trying to teach or break a behaviour.

So, when your dog thinks about the new behaviour being learned or unlearned, praise (nonphysicalpraise) and patience, are required during the few moments it takes to correctly filethis new information. However, once again, although your dog may fully understand whatyou are trying to accomplish now that you've demonstrated this behaviour three times,means he's going to try to go against your desire! His job is to oppose you.

He needs to think things out during the third request. is moment requires praise,

regardless of what the dog is thinking.

He's going to ponder the idea, then glance at you. Back to the idea, now thinking of you.en think about the idea, and then think about you. Follow his thinking, and re-enforce itwith praise.

Non-physical praise only.

You cannot second-guess what he might be thinking at this time. Presume nothing. Allowhis choice to dictate your next move. Chances are, he's going to continue one last try athaving his own way.

ere are only two choices he can make. He's either going to do it correctly, for whichyou'll continue praise, and wait for the forthcoming opportunity to test him out, or, he'sgoing to do it wrong, for which you'll continue to praise until you are sure he got it wrong,for which you'll perform the correct move to re-enforce the desired behaviour, whilecontinuing to praise, non physical, of course. Using this system, you cannot go wrong.Simply praise whatever he might be thinking. is process of elimination gives us theopportunity to allow your dog to progress at his own speed. e third time your dog isgiven a command, he'll probably do it incorrectly just to see if you are going to beconsistent. Once that has been done, the fourth occasion will completely "delete" or "open"the new "file."

Getting Started

e equipment you will need: A 6 ft. leather or web lead. Nylon or rope may slide throughthe fingers, causing a burn or blister. A chain may do likewise, and is too heavy, making thedog feel that you are pulling. A flat collar. A twenty-foot lead, long line, or rope. Fourempty but clean soda cans, slightly crushed so as to be "square" to prevent them rolling andcreating a prolonged sound, with six pennies inside each, with tape over the opening. Autility bag for carrying equipment. Lastly, you'll need an open mind and a desire to improvethe quality of life for your pet.

First Things First: Proper Lead Handling

Failure to handle your lead properly is usually the first mistake that leads to your next andmore crucial mistakes.

e lead must be handled in a casual and relaxed manner to avoid transmitting tension andtriggering the opposition reflex in your dog.

Start by opening your hand with the thumb extended and palm facing you. Hang the loopor handle over the thumb, and gently close fist around both lengths of the handle.

Close your thumb down over the second joint of the index finger. Pull down so the handleis snug over your thumb as you maintain a gentle grasp around the handle. is is a safety. Ifyour dog should pull hard, the handle will not accidentally slip through your palm.

If it is imminent that you will lose balance and fall, opening the fist will release you and

prevent a fall.

Next, take the length of your lead, and bring it upward, placing it under the fingers and incontact with both sides of the handle in your closed palm. You should now be able to pullor slide the running length through the palm to make adjustments. Drop your arm down toyour side. e length should break just at your kneecap if you're dog were in the heelposition.

Ordinarily, the heel position is with your dog on your left side, and the lead will be held inyour right hand. Your left hand must never (until you are trained) hold the lead while in theheel position, except to collect the length to return it to your right hand.

e length of your lead shall break just below your left kneecap. If you need to work yourdog on your right side, or from in front, or at a distance, the lead will be in your left hand.(If you are going to heel your dog on your right side, for our purposes, you will need tomake the appropriate adjustments with regard to left and right signals, turns, etc. Irecommend not doing so at this time, unless physical needs dictate).

e heel position means your dog's shoulder is at your knee. It does not matter whether heis standing, sitting, walking, lying down, or jumping straight up in the air! In fact, if I couldget all of my dogs to heel while jumping straight up in the air, I would be ecstatic. If yourdog's shoulders are aligned at your knee and he is facing the same direction as you, that's theheel position.

Trivial as this may seem, nothing in the Wits' End Dog Training Method (at this point) isarbitrary. Pay close attention to the above details. Notice that the running length of the leadshould easily flow through the closed fingers. e arm should hang relaxed at your side.Keep your back straight; don't lean over your dog. e length of the lead should break atyour kneecap.

Never allow the length of your lead to loop over or between any fingers, as this will create ablock, creating tension in your hand, causing a bend at the elbow, creating tension on yourdog's collar, triggering the opposition reflex, thus defeating our method.

ere should never be any tension applied to your dog's collar. A flat collar, one that doesnot choke, is required to prevent unintentional constriction or pulling. If you expect yourdog to try to slip out of his collar, you may "back it up" with a choke collar to prevent hisslipping free.

One word of caution: you should never need to apply enough tension to cause your dog toback up and slip his flat collar. Whenever pulling occurs, just immediately give slack intothe lead (without stepping forward) and follow with "good boy."

Tension on the collar must be released instantly. If pulling continues, you may need to pullyour dog back just one inch, just enough to gain the slack necessary to give it back to him,while praising.

is technique and a practice exercise will be covered in detail in the trouble shootingsection.

Here's a brief aside you may appreciate. Once in a training session, I was instructing a malestudent regarding how to praise his terribly out of control Cocker Spaniel. He told me flatout that he could not "do that" (meaning praise his pet as I requested).

is had happened once before, that a rather "macho" student of mine refused to followdirections at the onset of our lesson. As I sadly began to collect my equipment, I asked,"Why can't you speak to your pet as I request?" He lowered his eyes, and mumbled that hejust couldn't talk to his dog "like that."

In desperation I asked, "Well, how do you talk to your dog?" He said that he had a veryspecial relationship with his critter, and he always talked to her in a particularly lovingmanner. "Show me how you do talk to her," I said. At this point, he began a litany of cooingand prose that in remembrance still causes me to choke with laughter! I realized then thatmy concern was for naught, and my efforts would be valued and appreciated. So feel free touse your own choice of words for such commands as "praise," or "take a break," "you'refree," "back to work," and even other commands such as heel, sit, stay, etc.

Contrary to customary belief, we know that dogs do understand words. We do notanthropomorphize (give human qualities to animals), but we do recognize a dichotomy ofcognitive intelligence based on our experience and empirical evidence, versus traditionalideology.

is sets the Wits' End Dog Training Method apart, for which we will remain eternallygrateful. One point of caution, however: be careful not to use words such as "O.K." in anycommand sequence, as it is so commonly used, you may find yourself accidentally releasingor otherwise inadvertently signalling your dog.

What is a Conditioned Reflex?

Dr. Ian Pavlov discovered conditioned reflex in the first decade of this century. He cameupon this discovery quite by accident while working with some dogs in an experiment forhuman psychology.

He noticed that some of the dogs coming to his research laboratory began to drool inanticipation of the food rewards that were going to be offered during his experiment, evenprior to entering the laboratory.

is piqued his curiosity to the point that he needed to see what was going on. He invitedsome dogs to stay in the lab for this study. No doubt you have heard of "Pavlov's bell."

e dogs were presented with some liver while a bell was struck. After several occasions ofthis conditioning, the bell was struck without the promised treat.

e dogs naturally got excited anticipating the liver, and began to salivate (drool). uscame the discovery of conditioned reflex.

Conditioned reflex is just that. Conditioning, which simply put means the same stimuli,presented in the same manner, so as to be exact; and reflex, that is to say, a reaction overwhich one has no control. Be aware, that in order to meet these criteria successfully, eachelement must be adhered to precisely.

at is to say, the exact same treat presented with the exact same sound, in the exact samemanner each time. Be aware that we are not suggesting that you use any food for ourpurposes, as it would be contra-indicated.

How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes

Just as a child steps into the street without being aware of the meaning of the blast of a carhorn, and continues on his way in oblivion, it takes experiences to become conditioned. I'llbet that when you step off of a curb, and hear a car horn blow, your head spins both waysat once, as you jump back, looking for the impending accident.

e difference is conditioning.

is is going to require a few minutes of practice, without the presence of your dogs. Itwould be preferable to do this with any family members available, but may be successfullydone alone.

What we need to do is develop a sense of timing. Here is where the previously called forcans with the pennies will come in. Have the cans rinsed clean and dry. Insert six pennies ineach can, tape the top shut, and crush the sides of the cans, so as to make them square toprevent the cans from rolling, to avoid creating a prolonged sound! Silence is Golden! It isimperative that you handle these cans silently! At any time, should these training aidsaccidentally create a sound, praise must accompany the event. is will tell the dog youwere not addressing his behaviour, and that he should disregard the incident. When morethan one dog is present, and any dog is being addressed through the use of sound, each dogmust be individually praised and acknowledged with direct eye contact and non-physicalpraise. Praise Must Always Accompany Sound, with one exception. at is, when abehaviour is being addressed after the fact. When you have discovered a behaviour thatoccurred when you were not present, this would be the only time the sound shall bepresented without verbal praise. e details are covered later in "using sound to break badbehaviour."

To teach your dog the "recall" or "come" command, we must first create a phrase, and selecta "key" or "cue" word in that phrase. Example: "your dog's name, come, good boy." In thisphrase, we shall select "come" as our "key" or "cue" word.

e objective is to create a brief sound exactly on the "key" or "cue" word. e phrase mustbe spoken with no pauses, commas, or breaths in between words. e phrase must bespoken quickly, in an even-tempered tone of voice.

e sound will be applied ONLY on the KEY or CUE words ONLY on the second andfourth requests. In other words, give him the opportunity to respond correctly on each firstrequest following a command given with a sound cue.

e second request must be accompanied by sound. e next request would be treated as afirst request. You'll see later. e first instance of any phrase you will use must bepresented without the accompaniment of sound. If your dog should respond properly to thisfirst request, "your dog's name, come, good boy," praise him immediately, even before hebegins to move.

Any response, the twitch of an ear or tail, a shuffle of a foot, a brief glance, any reaction atall, to any command, always requires spontaneous, instant, continuous praise, for five tofifteen seconds or however long your dog is thinking about your request (even if he'thinking of leaving!).

Continue praising constantly until your dog comes all the way to you, even if it requires thatyou move backward as you continue to speak praise and coax, even plead or beg, but do notrepeat the command phrase.

As long as you are moving backward and he is coming forward, he's still coming. In thisexample, let's say the dog properly (maybe coincidentally) performed. However, that doesnot mean that he will always respond.

Remember, a conditioned reflex means that your dog has ABSOLUTELY NO CHOICEBUT TO RESPOND PROPERLY!

Later, when you are done with all of the intricacies involved, test it out like this: Findyourself and your trained dog in a comfortable situation, like yourself sitting in your easychair and him snoozing by the fireplace.

Ask him to come in the proscribed manner. When he gladly jumps up and sticks his big wetnose in your face, pat him, and tell him he's free.

Let him resume his leisurely pursuits and call him again. Repeat this until maybe on thefourth or fifth occasion that you call him, when he believes there is no point to getting upand coming all the way over to you just so you can tell him he's cool and that he mayresume his pursuits.

Just as soon as he refuses your trivial request to come to you, follow the procedure to makehim come.

Remember: any time that your dog does not respond the first time you ask him to come,regard this as a major behavioral problem and take the appropriate action to remedy thesituation (reinstall the come command as a conditioned reflex during the FPLX).

So now we must try again to set up the situation whereby your dog refuses to perform arequest. Once again, repeat your (1st request) "dog's name, come, good boy." If he does notspin immediately to respond, instantly repeat the phrase with the accompanying sound:*(upper case denotes command with sound, not shouting. All commands much be given inan even tempered tone): your (2nd request) "dog's name, COME, good boy," this time, usingthe can, by giving it one brief, hard, downward shake (not a rattle), and only EXACTLY onthe "key" or "cue" word, in this example, COME.

Let the sound from the can emphasize your "key" or "cue" word, not your voice. Your voicemust always be used in a calm, even-tempered, never commanding or authoritative tone. Ifany response at all (even an obvious attempt to run away) occurs, instant praise, once again,is required. For this example, let's say your dog chose to continue away from you.

Immediately repeat your phrase without the accompanying sound and your (3rd request)

"dog's name, come, good boy." At this point, you might figure that the dog would notrespond. While this may be so, we do not know for sure. Observation is required. He mayhave experienced the desired conditioning from even just that one instance of presentingthe "key" or "cue" word in association with the sound.

For this reason, we presented our command on this, your third request, without theconditioning sound. If any response occurred, again, even a seemingly negative response likerunning further away, praise is required.

If you're certain your dog is not responding, on this, his third request, the request will thenonce again be repeated, for the fourth occasion, this time, while presenting the sound fromanother direction, preferably beyond your dog, and exactly timed to occur with the "key" or"cue" word.

SOUNDS MUST NEVER BE REPEATED FROM THE SAME POSITION TWICE INSUCCESSION! In this instance you will repeat the command phrase, your (4th request)(toss can now) "dog's name, COME, good boy" and toss your can beyond (not at, butbeyond) your dog, so as to cause the can to strike the ground exactly on time with the "key"or "cue" word.

is requires just a little bit of skill, because the can must be ejected several moments priorto repeating the command phrase, (because of the distance), so as to strike the groundexactly at the same time as our "key" or "cue" word, and the entire sequence must occur asquickly as possible, *and, the can must be carefully tossed so as not to sound accidentallyfrom your hand while being ejected and you must avoid causing the can to tumble throughthe air causing inappropriately timed sounds.

Yes, I agree, things sounded simple enough until all of this first and third without sound,and second and fourth with sound stuff. Relax, we'll try this again, in "real time," and thenyou may try to practice on your own for a few minutes.

Let's run through the command sequence as if your dog were not cooperating. We'll useUPPER CASE to denote command accompanied with sound.

Practice this while not in the presence of your dogs. Read it aloud, and actually using thecans. Set a target about 10 feet away to practice your throw on the fourth command. Startnow: take a deep breath, hold it, read aloud: "dog's name, come, good boy"- (next createsound on COME) "dog's name, COME, good boy"-(repeat quickly) "dog's name, come,good, boy"-(toss can now) "dog's name, COME, good boy." Breathe!

See? It's easier than it sounded the first time. Try this until you've got the timing down sothe "key" or "cue" words and sounds are in sync.

If any response occurs, instant, spontaneous, constant praise must follow, until your dog isclose enough to pat. Remember, even begging and pleading are O.K., as long as you do notmove toward him and you do not repeat the command.

Repeating commands will cause the dog to cause you to continue repeating commands. Butare we not repeating the command in the exercise? Yes, we do repeat the command, butnever without punctuating the command on its first repetition, which will fix thatcommand into the reflex system. As soon as the conditioned reflex is installed, thecommand may not be ever needed more than once.

at's it! And it happens that fast!

Over some period of time the conditioning may deteriorate for a variety of reasons.Sometimes, calling your dog in a more casual manner might deteriorate the conditioning.

Not following through with enforcing, or not properly reinforcing correct performance ofthe command could deteriorate the conditioned reflex. e most common reason wouldlikely be repeating commands. Dogs thrive on the extra attention, and will keep youentertained for countless hours, or for as long as you will repeat commands.

Once any command is issued, it must be completed. We have a system that will guide yourdog's correct performance, or provide you with a strategic withdrawal. You are the one incharge; so therefore, you may change your mind, as you so desire. We'll show you how toinsure that you come out looking smarter than your dog.

e first time your dog fails to respond properly to the "recall" or "come " command, regardthat as a major behavioral problem.

Make the effort to correctly reinforce the command during the ""Family Pack Leadership"exercise," explained in detail later on.

Of course, in our last example here, the plan was to perform the command sequence asquickly as possible, with no pauses, just as though your dog were not responding and youwere correctly operating the sounds.

Well, let's continue, and presume that our dog did not respond after the fourth request. Atthis point, your job is to turn and walk determinedly away, without looking back, speakingcontinuously and praising him without breaking your stride, without looking back, until youcan pat him.

You may ask, "What leads you to believe Rover is going to suddenly respond by followingus when we turn and walk away?" Easy! e training in our next two exercises is going toinstill the concept in one's mind.

First comes the "Hot and Cold Exercise," which will get the dog settled and paying attentionto you. en, the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise" which is the single most importanttraining technique available.

e ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise," combined with the installation of the conditionedreflex to the "recall" or "come" command, will give you unimaginable control of your dog.

You could start with a strange dog, and in fifteen minutes of work, have him respondingjust as though you've been "good buddies" for a "dog's age!"

Once again, things seem simple enough, so we'll throw in a little extra. Initially, just gettingRover to come in response to the "recall" command, close enough to be able to pat him,would seem to be sufficient. While that may be good enough for most people, the Wits'End Dog Training Method promises and requires strict and exacting discipline. For now, inthis initial phase of training, it would be counter productive to be any more exacting than to

just be satisfied with a brief pat. However, after this initial phase of training is complete(maybe just one session of work, but do follow directions, and do this four times), you willbe expected to cause your dog to sit directly in front of you during the "recall" or "come"exercise. is will be extremely important in the "big picture." But, for now, we do notneed to be so exact. e hard part is done!

The "Hot and Cold" Exercise

Remember the children's game in which an object is selected, and the one who is "it" isdirected to find same based on directions of "hot or cold" to indicate proximity to theobject? We are going to do the same with your dog's attention, with you being the selectedobject.

is "Hot and Cold" exercise takes about two minutes to perform. Done properly, thisexercise will have the effect of shutting off his attention to anything other than you. ispractice should be used any time your dog becomes distracted or is not keeping hisattention focused on you.

Our objective is to cause your dog always to have one ear and one eye focused on you. Ifthis is done correctly, your dog will end up directly in front of you, relaxed, and waiting foryour next idea.

To begin, ask your dog if he "wants to go to work," tell him "good boy," as you show himyour lead, and lean back from him. is will help command his attention up and towardyou, without focusing on putting on the lead.

We want to be sure not to give the impression that we're assaulting him with the lead!Bend at the knees, keeping your back straight as you affix your lead to his collar, gentlytalking, but not physically touching any more than necessary. Tell him he's a good boy asyou head out the door.

As soon as you have cleared the area in front of your door, come to a halt. As your dogmoves forward and back, around and in front of you, allow your lead to flow smoothlythrough your hands, the free hand reaching out to collect your lead at its mid point, andplace it in the palm with the handle to keep it out from under your dog's feet as he movesin towards you, playing it out as he moves away, collecting it as he returns.

Just get used to the feeling of allowing your lead to flow through your hands, collecting itagain, and allow it to feed out as your dog moves. Be sure not to pull or allow tension on thecollar.

Do not lean toward your dog or move toward him, as this will cause the opposite effect,consequently subordinating ourselves and subverting our efforts.

If your dog looks toward you, you'll tell him he's a good boy. Always, every time, noexceptions ever, no matter what, when, or where, if your dog looks toward you, even a briefmomentary glance out of the corner of his eye, that requires praise.

is rule will never vary. *If necessary maybe squatting down will bring him in close, butwe don't want to call or force him in.

After just two or three minutes the dog should be settled and paying attention to you withone eye and one ear and his tail gently swaying. If this exercise requires more time, that'sfine too. Spend twenty or thirty minutes in one spot, just calming the dog and gaining histrust and commanding his attention through the intermittent praise.

The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" (May Be Done Solo)

Before starting the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, you should perform the "Hot andCold" exercise to get your dog's attention focused on you.

Because of its simplicity, the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise is often discounted orignored. By the way, you don't need your entire family to do this exercise. You may do itwith some family members, or even by yourself.

e "Family Pack Leadership" exercise is equally important as the "recall" or "come"command. It is the basis for your total relationship with your dog, your success or failure asa team, but its subtlety is deceiving.

It requires about fifteen minutes to perform on the first occasion, about twelve minutes forthe second occasion, about eight minutes on the third occasion, and no more than six toeight minutes on successive occasions.

is exercise must be done with the entire family on four successive occasions, preferablyin four different locations. (e ideal scenario would be to perform the "Family PackLeadership" exercise four times at the first location, four times at the second location, fourtimes at the third location, and four times at the fourth location).

ereafter, this exercise should be used as needed, that is, any time your dog seems not topay close attention to you, or seems easily distracted, or any time any behaviour problemsarise.

It is a good practice to do on a weekly basis (just once, at one location is fine) after theinitial series, later, on a monthly basis, kind of like a "tune up."

If you've noticed a pattern developing here, you're right: Dogs learn on the basis of fourproperly performed repetitions. ese applications should be performed in four differentlocations or training situations.

You are going to be walking with all of the immediate members of your family, and yourdog, in a large square.

What you will need is an area large enough to encompass a twenty-foot square area,including additional space to provide clearance for the length of your twenty-foot lead. Inother words, you will need a 60' x 60' area.

If it is impossible to find such a large area, you could get by with less space. Once again,although training should not be conducted in your dog's own back yard, this exercise and"COME" ARE exceptions to the rule, but not for the initial or regular practice.

Do this in your yard after the dog understands the principles in neutral territory. Insofar asit is necessary to do these exercises in his back yard, you will find it counterproductive ifover used.

If you are with the members of your family, gather in a close-knit group, and proceed towalk as one unit from your starting point, at the rate of about one step per second, forward,for the distance of 20 feet.

Do not look at your dog. If he moves along with you, tell him he's a good boy. Everybodymust speak, all together. If he looks up at you, that requires praise. If he does not follow thegroup, that's fine. Every time he comes toward the family, praise him. If he wanders off,

that's fine too. As he returns to you, praise. Turn left at your first 20-foot mark, and proceedslowly on the second leg of this square.

Each time he looks up at you, praise. If he wanders, that's fine; do not speak to him unlesshe is returning toward the family pack.

Notice where the turns are, and try to find each corner of this square as you continuewalking slowly to your next corner and turn left again.

As you proceed around this imaginary square, simply praise him as he returns to the familypack, and ignore him as he wanders away.

You will notice that as you continue around this square, your dog will begin to stay closer tothe family pack.

On about your fourth trip around the square, your dog should be fairly comfortablemaintaining a close proximity to the group.

When this is so, simply come to a halt at any corner of our square. Face each other, andspeak amongst yourselves.

Your dog should be ignored, unless he looks directly up at the family, for which praise isrequired. If he comes close enough, a pat would be in order.

Remain at this corner, chatting casually, until our subject dog joins the group, but for nolonger than two minutes. When Rover settles next to the family, give him just anothermoment or two to get nice and comfortable. Now, altogether and on cue, withouttelegraphing this to our subject dog, move forward all together, slowly toward your nextcorner.

As soon as your dog starts to get up to follow, everyone must sound off with praise, andeveryone must stop praising just as soon as your dog's attention wanders, or he moves awaytoward the end of his 20-foot lead.

As before, come to a halt at your next corner, face each other and converse casuallyamongst yourselves until your dog joins the group, settles, or gets comfortable, and then asbefore, move forward toward the next corner as a group.

Repeat this at each corner. at's it!

Now if you'd like, you can get a jump on the advanced work in Part 2 by simply walking asa group to the opposite corner of the square taking four steps forwards, turn left for twosteps, turn right and continue four steps, turn left for two, right for four, and finish up witha 180 degree turn to your left, and return to the opposite corner in the same manner,completing that with a 180 turn to the right.

Now, the reason we covered the "recall" or "come" command at the very beginning, isbecause during the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise," you will likely have severalopportunities to install the conditioned reflex. At some point during this "Family PackLeadership" exercise, I expect your dog will go all the way off to the end of his 20-foot lead,and not care to follow the family or, he may become distracted looking around at whatevermight interest him.

If he gets involved smelling a spot, or looking at something, and your pack has moved to thepoint where your lead is becoming taut, stop.

Do not pull.

Turn facing your dog, and use the cans to condition him to "come" at this time. Onemember of the family should be responsible for working the command, but every membershould participate with the praise as your dog is coming in on the "recall."

Also, if it is necessary to back up to help to coax him to come to you, the entire familyshould also participate in backing up.

If these directions have been followed properly, the obvious difference in your dog'sdemeanour and attitude will be stunning.

Practicing The "Recall" or "Come" Command

After completing the pre-requisite ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise, any area is good tocomplete training to install this conditioned reflex.

Note: to ensure that the "recall" or "come" command is properly installed, ideally youshould achieve four perfect recalls on lead during each training session, in four differentlocations.

It is vital to achieve this before practicing the "recall" or "come" command off lead.

e "recall" or "come" command may be practiced on lead anywhere, off lead in a fencedarea, or inside the house, provided there are no hiding places that your dog may get into orunder....

Let's not defeat ourselves by attempting to do something prematurely-that is, not properlyinstalling the command prior to attempting it in a more difficult situation, or a commandwe know he is going to resist, without having done all of the basics, prior to attempting to

tempt fate!

If you know your dog has never come to you after he has gone under the couch to hide,don't try calling him out from under there, or even in that room, because you know that assoon as you call him, he's going to try to escape to the security of where you can't get him,until you have accomplished the preliminaries, and you know he is properly conditioned inat least four other places.

Let's say we're dealing with a real sharp dog, one that knows just how to manipulate each ofthe family, one against the other, each in turn. You know the kind I'm talking about, theone who's just "so cute," he takes advantage of any opportunity to get his way, usuallyending with a fight between family members. Got one like that? Just because we're gentleand humane, does not mean we can't be vindictive.

Let's get ready to burst his bubble!

Divide yourselves into two groups, equally divided between those whom he favours. Eachgroup will have one can, and one person responsible for operating the manipulation of thesound cues.

Of course, the person in command will change, as each individual takes his or her turn.Remember, it is not necessary to have the person responsible for issuing the command alsoresponsible for creating the sounds, unless they are proficient at this technique.

Using the 20-foot lead, space yourselves 20 feet apart. Observe carefully to determine whichgroup should issue the "recall" or "come" command, based upon whomever he is leastattentive towards.

Issue the requests to come as previously described. In the event we need to pursue thiscommand to its fourth request, the second group will create the sound on the fourthoccasion, and one and all, moving together will continue towards the group issuing thecommand and lead the dog as a group toward the individual issuing the command, untilcompleted upon being petted. Spend a few moments socializing among you, as asubterfuge, and then drift apart to repeat this exercise as necessary.

is will have the effect of putting your dog at the bottom of the ladder of the peckingorder of importance, and everyone else above, which will take away his sense of being apeer, or equal in importance, to any member of your family.

Once again, as always, successfully repeat this exercise at least four times with eachindividual, and do so in four different places. If these exercises are done properly, it shouldfeel like you've got a new dog at home, and he'd feel better fast, knowing that everyone inhis family is an appropriate leader.

Teach Any Command through Conditioned Reflex

Any command may be taught in the same manner as you have just learned. Don't use thistechnique indiscriminately. We can work several commands at once, but right now while

everyone is just getting familiar with this new approach, and your dog is still "upside-down"with the changes he's going through, don't rush. If your dog is used to being forced andpunished, it's likely to take a few sessions for him to believe you've really changed yourapproach, dogs who aren't used to begin treated gently are not comfortable offering trust tillyou've proven your intent. One lapse of judgement or correction will re stimulate all theprevious mishandling and impede your progress. Here is an example of a commonly desiredcommand that you will find useful. is example is meant to more thoroughly show youthe concept.

Any command, for any reason, in any circumstances, can be substituted. But remember, wedo not want your dog to "do things," we want them to learn things.

Conditioned reflex makes things happen, without understanding. Use it sparingly, especiallyat the beginning.

Let's say you want your pet to go in the other room. You might select the phrase, "go in theother room, good boy." You might select the word room as your "key" or "cue" word.

Present your command in the described manner, and continue on to your fourth request,and present your sound appropriately beyond your dog. At this, move forward whilecontinuing to praise him as you go into the ordered room, and thoroughly praise and pathim upon completion.

But what if he did not follow through? Defer to your "come" command, to which you knowhe has been properly conditioned. Upon completing the "come" command, you should findhim there, in the other room, with yourself.

Now, as you return to where you were when you first issued your command to "go in theother room good boy," and you should find your dog satisfactorily waiting in the otherroom.

Don't be surprised if you find him right there with you, in your original places. What wentwrong?

Well, if he negotiated his way into the other room, even if only to follow you on yourfourth request, did he not perform the original command? Of course he did, but heimmediately broke it when you left that room. What may be done when your dog breakshis command? Also, what may be done when your dog does a behaviour you would ratherhe not do?

Use Sound to Break Bad Behaviour!

e fastest, easiest, and most effective approach is to recreate the undesired situation in acontrolled setting, and correctly use sound distractions with praise to erase themisbehaviour.

*Please note: any sound may be used as long as it is variable in direction, that's why we usethe cans with pennies. e sound doesn't have to be loud, only noticeable and instantlyfollowed by prolonged, exuberant non physical praise. e source of sound must be brief,and you should be able to present it from different directions on each consecutive instance.

Snapping fingers from random directions (if you're close to the dog), followed by praise, willwork fine.

You may also use keys or whatever else comes to mind, only remember that the dog shouldtake notice of the sound, not be intimidated by it. If the dog doesn't "APPEAR" to noticethe sound, just follow through as though he did, cause he did if you created it, and he'llbecome conditioned if you simply follow the technique. You're not going to SEE a lot ofwhat we're working with, just follow the techniques regardless of what your intuition says.Dogs can learn or unlearn almost anything in four properly conducted repetitions. Taken toits extreme, these four repetitions should be performed in four different places, or withdifferent people, dogs, or whatever the "props" involved may be.

Understanding how dogs think, learn, and process information is a stretch of the imaginationfor most of us. It is obvious that animals know more about psychology than we do.

ey think, have a sense of humour, communicate, tease, lie, steal, etc., just like any oneelse. But they don't think like humans. Dogs are limited to thinking like dogs. It's yourresponsibility to think things out from their perspective and try to use good judgment.

Be consistent. Dogs get confused if you're not consistent.

Now that you are getting familiar with teaching a command through conditioned reflex,you can use similar techniques to stop or break any behaviour whatsoever.

Using the cans *(or other source of sound so long as it is brief, and so long as it can bepresented from different directions), on each consecutive instance, are all that you need todo to break any behaviour.

Simply create the sound, and follow through with praise! It's that simple. Any behaviourcan be stopped or broken, simply by creating a sound, and praising immediately.

Following the technique for a few successive repetitions will quickly extinguish thebehaviour, not just interrupt it every time it keeps happening. We're looking for total100% perfect behaviour. e secret is to allow the undesired behaviour to begin again, andsimply present the sound from another direction, and follow through with praise. Of courseyou have to understand how your dog thinks and learns in order to achieve this successfully.Each time you create a sound to stop or break a behaviour, you must praise himINSTANTLY and continue for as long as he refrains from continuing such behaviour (atleast until he no longer thinks about that instance, usually ten or fifteen seconds), and beprepared to create your sound distraction and praise as soon as the behaviour begins again.

is is the sticking point with so many trainers. "HOWE COME should I praise this critterif he's not even doing what I want?"

Remember, dogs do not think in human terms. Most behavioral problems are simply afailure to communicate clearly.

is is a scientific conditioning technique, and it cannot fail if you use the techniquesaccordingly. *Of course, you could continue correcting your dog forever, as most trainersdo. We do not understand HOWE COME a trained dog needs correction. If he were

trained, that should be the end of the matter. is would imply that if a trained dog makesa mistake, that this mistake is probably not an accident, but rather, a failure of the trainingmethods used, not a challenge to your authority. Perhaps this is why so many trainers seemto enjoy correcting their dogs forever. I suppose the real reason it is so difficult for us toshare the Wits' End Dog Training Method with other pet professionals, is because we takeall the satisfaction out of "dealing with" an obstreperous dog.

e problem is that corrections do not teach new behaviour. Our technique actually deleteserrors in your dog's thinking. It takes only a few moments of time to permanently cancel ordelete a behaviour.

Correcting a behaviour, rather than deleting it, takes the entire lifetime of your dog. Makeyour choice, to solve behavioral problems permanently in a few moments, or get thedubious satisfaction of correcting your dog's behavioral problems each time they occur, forthe entire life of your dog.

When you get tired of correcting, whining, nagging, and arguing, start reading this manualagain, follow the directions, and change your values.

Change is difficult.

So let's go back to the prior example using the "other room" command. As you prepare toexit the room after having shown him the meaning of your request, create a sound justbefore your dog reaches the exit or doorway.

As always, instantly praise him. Continue to exit the room yourself, and if he continues totry to exit, create the sound behind him, and praise again.

If he successfully exits the room against your command, simply repeat the originalcommand "go in the other room good boy." Of course, this will be treated as a new request,to be performed according to the progression of events as required. In other words, youmust pay attention to the last instance in which sound was used, and try to insure that inthe next instance, the sound comes from the appropriate source even from day in to dayout, one day to the next, never vary the routine. In other words, if your dog went into the"other room" on his first request without sound, perhaps strictly as a coincidence, then, afteryou've tried to correct him from leaving, that instance would require the application ofsound with your next request, which in actuality, would be his second request to "go in theother room good boy."

To review: First request, "Go in the other room, good boy." Second request, "Go in theother ROOM good boy" ird request, "Go in the other room, good boy" Let's say heaccomplished the request properly. When he violates the command, your next request tosend him back there would be, in actuality, his fourth request, requiring sound on thiscommand.

If you are not thoroughly confused at this point, I'm surprised. Here's the rest of the secret:e sequence of events never starts over again, but always continues from the last instancein which the sound was used. It is imperative to try to remember the last occasion in whichyour dog was given a command. For example, let's say he's out in the back yard.

You call him to come in, and he fails to respond. So you reach for the can, and repeat yourrequest accompanied with one hard downward shake to create sound. Naturally, your dogwill respond on this occasion.

Next time that he is out in the yard-even if it's the next day-and he fails to respond whenyou ask him to come in, you've got to try to remember when it was, that you last needed tore-enforce the command, using sound.

So you might stop for a moment to think, "Gee, wasn't it just last night, that I asked him tocome inside, and failing that, needed to create the sound on my second request for him tocome in?"

Did the sound come from my hand, or did the can need to be tossed beyond him?

Follow through thinking this out, and make the right decision. If you can't remember thelast instance, that's O.K. Simply do your best, and set yourself an appointment to do the"Family Pack Leadership Exercise" when you plan to re-install the conditioned reflex to"come." It'll take about ten minutes.

Other Examples of Using Sound to Correct "Bad Behaviour"

As stated earlier, any sound, accompanied by praise, is sufficient. For example: let's say yourdog walks right over to you while you're eating dinner, and expects to help himself, withoutpermission, to your food. If you were to snap your fingers in front of his face and say "goodboy, nice dog, what a good dog you are," you'd feel pretty much like an idiot, until heopened his mouth to grab your food, at which point you'd reach around behind him andsnap your fingers again, following through with lavish praise.

If your timing and tone of voice were correct, he would have stopped, but yet still bethinking of taking your food without permission. So we expect him to try again to get yourfood. As he leans his big wet nose over your plate, and again you were to snap your fingersin front of his nose, and following the procedure, using lavish praise for this horriblemistake, you'll find him leaning back a little, thinking, thinking, thinking, thinking, andthinking (and find yourself praising, praising, and praising).

Now, he's going to look at your food, then look up at you, then back at the food. Inasmuchas it goes against everything you've ever been lead to believe, you must praise this thought,this learning plateau. You can learn to overcome your natural instincts.

It's not easy being human.

Now we fully expect him to try once again to get your food. At the moment he begins tomake his move, if you were to reach around behind him and snap your fingers and speakpraises, this should be the last time you need address this behaviour, possibly for the rest ofyour life, or until you change your location.

Pick up your plate and move to another chair, and your loving pet will try again to stealyour food. Now, begin the procedure again, taking it to its fourth properly performedrepetition.

Now, he'll probably never try to steal your food as long as you sit at either of the twopositions at your table that he has been conditioned to. Taking this example to a third seatat the table, and then to a fourth seat at the table will permanently break this behaviour.at is, until someone else sits there with his or her food in front of him or her.

e point is that we will need four people or plate settings at this table to permanentlyeradicate this behaviour. O.K.?

How about if we rearrange the dining room, and move the table to another location? If youfigure this to be a "new environment," you've begun to understand how your dog figures itto be.

Now, you know what to do, and how to do it.

A student called one day because although things were moving along well with her dog, thedog continued to jump up on the couch. When asked how does she address the problem,she stated hat she reaches over for one of the cans, gives it a shake and praises, and indeed,the dog gets off the couch, but gets back on again shortly thereafter.

"How do you deal with that?" I asked.

"I reach for the cans, and give it another shake, and as always, she gets right off, but getsback on it again shortly thereafter."

"Don't you remember that the sound must come from another direction?" I asked.

"Oh yes, now I remember. Creating the sound will not be effective without alternating thesource or direction. Sorry to bother you about that," she said.

"Before you go, tell me, did you continue to do the "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" atthree other locations, and finish reading the manual?" I asked.

Unacceptable Demonstrations of Dominance

Your dog needs to control totally, or to be controlled totally. In the big scheme of things,barring any unusual tendencies, outward appearances should look and feel like you areexpressing proper control.

Even in the best of situations, most of us try to get as much as we think we can get, or atleast as much as we feel we deserve. For the most part, your dog doesn't want to get yourjob, your possessions, or any thing else, except you.

All things being equal, you are the ultimate challenge. You might be considered kind of likea doggy version of Mt. Everest.

When climbing a mountain, one rule of thumb is to obtain a good purchase, before aimingfor another handhold or foothold. Just about every interaction with your dog might beconsidered a purchase on your summit. We don't want him to fall, but there's no room at

the top.

You might look at the intricacies of the relationship with your dog sort of being like a chessgame. Every interaction is a strategic assault that has to be analyzed, assessed, and at somepoint countered. Most canine interactions centre on control issues. ese power plays goon all the time, and usually take place without us even being aware, that we are the pawn ina power play.

Although most of these ploys are harmless and laughable, they do add up and scores arekept. You don't have to play well, but like it or not, you're in the game. Being consistentmeans you get extra points.

Let's look at an example of how we innocently participate, and the ramifications that occuras a result. Your dog jumps up on your couch. You look over and tell him to get off. Beinga good dog he jumps right off, and resumes his appropriate spot.

Being a dog, he's going to try again. So he does. And, doing your best, you remind him thatyou had just asked him not to do that. But, he ignores you, and you insist. So he goes. But(being a dog) he tries again, and you (being human) have got other things to do. Besides, he'sjust been groomed, and you're getting another couch soon, and you've decided to put thiscouch in a good spot so can have it, and you're tired, and it really doesn't matter.

So you ignore him.

is One Instance Of Inconsistency Just Fractured His Entire Concept Of eInfrastructure Of Your Home And your and His Role In It.

If you cannot make up your mind as to what is important, then he needs to make decisionsso as to insure stability in his den.

7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance How about every time your dogsteps on your feet? Don't you think your dog knows where each of his feet are, and wherethey belong?

Or, how about his tail? Does he accidentally smack you as he goes by? Maybe he clears yourcoffee table as he moves past?

Certainly you can't expect your dog to understand that this long, unwieldy appendage canrearrange your knick-knacks or whatever.

"Maybe it's best to keep him out of those areas. Besides, he's like a bull in a china shop."

We don't need to put up with these sorts of "unavoidable" impositions on our lives orproperty. You may say, "But surely there's no way to correct such innocent impositions."

If you believe that, then you've wasted your time reading this manual. Either start overagain, or re-examine your thinking. Let's look at how you might remedy these situations.Remember, your dog is going to model your behaviour and act in kind.

You set the standard for good behaviours by demonstration.

How to Correct Mouthing

Every puppy goes through a mouthing stage. It's usually out grown by the end of teething.at means he needs to chew something to cut new teeth.

Provide appropriate items to be chewed. Everything else is not to be touched. Establishappropriate mouth behaviour right from first contact. ere's no excuse for being abused byyour dogs teeth until he's finished teething.

*Some trainers teach "bite inhibition." at's almost the right idea.

First, mouthing is a bonding activity, so we don't want to discourage it antagonistically.Appropriate mouthing activity is up to you to determine. Some of us don't like dog'smouths on us at all. Other's don't mind and even enjoy it.

I always play with my dog's mouths, and I don't mind gentle mouthing. Whatever youattitude, just realize that others are going to be mouthed or not in the same manner as youaccept.

ere's no such thing as being too young to learn any behaviour, within the physical limitsof his body. His brain is ready to be programmed to learn everything he will ever need toknow by the age of 18 days old. Training your dog is not much different than creating afiling system.

Just as you address each page that appears on your screen, each behaviour your dogperforms should be dealt with before moving on to something else. Of course, if you are notprepared to cope with a behaviour because of, perhaps time restrictions, make note of thatbehaviour and set and appointed time to re create the situation and address it totally.

e first instance your dog puts his mouth on you inappropriately is to be regarded as anissue. Each time you permit any inappropriate behaviour to continue without beingaddressed, you are setting the precedent for more of the same behaviour.

TECHNIQUE: Subtle. Just be subtle. Whenever you have a situation that needs immediateresponse, be very careful to not let your dog know you are either upset or going to correcthim.

Casual. Just as casual as you would be as though you were explaining to your best friendhow to find a tool in your garage. If your friend couldn't find something, you'd just tell himwhere to look and expect him to try again. And, if he returned empty handed, you'dprobably suggest a better way to find the item. Matter of factly. Just as matter of factly asyou would if your friend were to return without the desired item once again. You'd calmlyand matter of factly get together and show him how to get it.

No big deal. When your dog first opens his mouth toward you, or any inappropriatematter, just create a sound and praise for five to fifteen seconds. If he refrains from thatbehaviour, continue to praise. If he continues with the misbehaviour, repeat the sounddistraction from another direction followed by prolonged, non physical praise. If hecontinues, use the command " 'Out!,' good boy, nice dog..." as you gently remove his teeth

from the object, immediately releasing his mouth and praising all at the same time.

Once again, it is necessary to allow the behaviour to resume. As he thinks once again toopen his mouth toward an inappropriate item, repeat the above procedure.

Understand that this process will require four properly performed repetitions. Observecarefully for the momentary hesitation on his third attempt, and be careful to praise that

moment and continue praising for up to fifteen seconds or until the mouthing stops orresumes.

And don't forget, once you've successfully inhibited the behaviour on one such item, youhave at least three more occasions for which this behaviour must be addressed topermanently delete it from his repertoire of misbehaviour. Bear in mind, this technique willneed to be repeated in four different places, and perhaps with four different items such aspeople, as well as any item into which he may choose to sink his little teeth. In otherwords, if he's chewing on your left hand, addressing this behaviour for four consecutiveoccasions will prevent him chewing on only your left hand, and only in that one area.

To successfully break this behaviour, allow the behaviour to resume on the other hand.Next, he'll probably look forward to chewing on your ankle, and then he'll try the otherankle.

Sure, it sounds like a lot of work, and a young puppy may indeed forget a previous lesson,especially if he is in the process of cutting new teeth.

Address each instance with patience and consistency.

Soon you'll see him think of the undesirable behaviour, and look right at you expecting thepraise for having restrained himself. Remember, any time you show annoyance, you areactually re-enforcing the undesirable behaviour.

At some point in your dog's early life, it was likely that his mom had the duty to correcthim for something like chewing on her, or for taking her food.

Perhaps you'd think mom dogs would share all their food with their puppies. at may betrue most of the time, just as most mom dogs won't get thoroughly upset when their babieschew on her.

But at some point, mom needs to protect herself from her puppies; and furthermore, naturedictates appropriate rules of behaviour that she is compelled to enforce.

Mom dogs will bat at their pups sideways with their mouths, while making a guttural soundmuch like the word out. Kind of like an umpire might be heard to say. is, if your pup hadever been corrected by his mom, it will have a profound effect on him, much like Pavlov'sbell.

In many instances this sound will stop a dog in is tracks.

If you fail to praise immediately after creating this sound, you will not have the benefits of

it. Remember any sound created to address misbehaviour must be accompanied withspontaneous, instant, constant, non-physical praise, until the thought process has finished,usually lasting between four to fifteen seconds. Let him think about the occurrence of thissound, and its relationship to his behaviour. Allow the behaviour to once again begin tooccur.

As soon as you determine that he's thinking of opening his mouth again, simply createanother sound from a different source of origin, and resume praise.

Once again, allow the behaviour to begin to start, and before he can complete the thoughtto begin the act, create another sound followed with praise.

is time, your dog should understand the reasoning behind the sounds. He's going to thinkabout the behaviour, and pause while he's thinking about the prior instances of this. You

must praise this time period that he is processing this information. It's critical that youobserve him each time after you have created a sound to interrupt a behaviour, to recognizethis hesitation period during which he is momentarily refraining from engaging in thisbehaviour.

Because this problem of mouthing is so common and difficult, and serious, here is anartificial aid that can be used to insure success. Please use all of the recommendedsuggestions first, at least to be fair that your dog has had the opportunity to learn throughappropriate methods.

Dr. Sloan created a liniment that bears his picture on the label. is is guaranteed to inhibitmouthing or chewing on such items as electric cords, leads, anything.

Be sure to avoid contact with eyes, even long after this preparation has been handled. You'llfind it on the shelf in any Rexall store, or ask your pharmacist to order it. "Sloan's liniment."A little goes a long way, so get the small size, and be prepared to put up with the notunpleasant but pervasive aroma for a few days.

"No Dogs on Beds?" and Other Problems

If you don't want your dog to use your bed, or to come up on your bed only when invited,you can use a combination of sound distraction/praise and reflex command installation toachieve the goal you desire. For the purpose of this exercise, let's assume that you wantyour dog to come up on the bed only when he is invited.

Scenario: your dog jumps on the bed without permission. You should look for the mostappropriate "correction" based on the dog's thinking. Let's examine how the dog sees thispicture, and then we'll be able to understand better how the Wits' End Dog TrainingMethod works.

So... your dog is cruising through the house, he sees the bed and says, "Hey, Mom/Dad isn'tusing the bed. Maybe I'll jump up and wait for them."

at's not inappropriate, so when you see him just say "Get off the bed good boy" and ifnecessary repeat with the sound cue on the key word "bed." Failing that, a come commandwould be appropriate.

(is scenario demonstrates HOWE COME it is necessary to install a proper "recall" or"come" command as described earlier in the manual.)

Let's now assume that your dog has obeyed your "come" command, but then tries anotherleap on the bed. is time, use sound distraction with praise. If he gets his feet on the bedand refuses to come off after the third time of sound distraction and praise, ask for the"come" command. Use the "come" command as a default for any unfulfilled command, butonly after giving all other options first.

is will become more evident as we get into the heeling pattern exercises. If you arealready on the bed and your dog jumps up without permission, use sound distraction andpraise (3 times), and then if this is not obeyed, give the command "get off the bed good boy"and follow through.

If necessary, you would get off the bed, call him to come and sit in front of you, return toheel, and release him and get back into bed and wait until he attempts again.

(You can learn more about the "return to heel" exercise in Part II of the W.E.D.T.M.Manual.)

Lastly, if you detect that your dog has been on the bed when you weren't present, drop asound can on the bed casually in his presence while not on the bed, and be silent. Followthe technique as in any other "after the fact" behaviour.

Housebreaking Technique

e more you try to "housebreak" your dog, the more anxiety he'll associate with it, andyou will never get it done. Here are directions that will quickly get you in good shape withher, but you must follow the directions exactly.

Some dogs like to exercise, run around for a few minutes before they relieve themselves. Ifthat's what your dog likes and if that's what you want, by all means do that first but getback into the Technique so you'll have the ability to teach your dog to take his break in twominutes flat. Part of the solution is to teach the dog to relieve himself on command so thatthe dog knows the purpose of his trip outside, and that he's got two minutes to relievehimself.

at can be done in a couple of days with a determined effort to supervise and walk thedog when appropriate breaks are necessary, or when the dog shows signs that he needs to goout.

Two minutes of standing in one appropriate break area, without walking or talking (whichwould will only distract the dog).

e request to "take a break good boy" should be given and if the dog sniffs the ground heshould be praised. If he looks around at the birds or other distractions, a second request to

"take a break good boy" should be given.

If he sniffs the ground he should be told he's a good boy again, if not, you should elapse thetwo minutes without walking around, and return inside on command, if you're working onobedience.

Don't fixate on the lack of results, we're talking about learning and conditioning a habit, notjust the mechanics of the alimentary canal and bladder.

If the dog did not relieve himself, constant SURREPTITIOUS (subtle, unnoticed)supervision will be necessary until the dog again shows signs of needing to relieve himself.

When that happens (it may only be five minutes after having just been out), he should beoffered another break, and the same procedure should follow.

You've got to wait till the pup "asks" or shows signs of "discomfort" indicating he needs torelieve himself, or you wont be teaching him to be able to contain himself. at's HOWECOME many "trainers" can't quickly house train their dogs, they never TRAIN them to beable to "hold it," because they're WORRIED about the dog making a mistake.

ey WORRY more about teaching an unwanted behaviour than they THINK aboutTEACHING a desired behaviour. Two minutes, and that's it. No more than two requests torelieve himself, and no unnecessary walking while on command to "take a break."

He should be handled on a six foot lead to prevent him from wandering around and gettingdistracted from his task. Conclude the break with the "back to work" command and havethe dog return to heel and sit, before continuing.

THIS IS CRITICAL for more advanced trained dogs, you'll understand as you read the Wits'End Dog Training Method manual.

IF THE DOG FAILS TO RETURN TO HEEL AND SIT, THAT MEANS HE'S STILLGOT TO RELIEVE HIMSELF. You can then ask him if he needs to relieve himself again,

INSTEAD OF the default for breaking a command as per the Wits' End Dog TrainingMethod manual and he's GONNA KNOW that he's between a rock and a hard place.

He's going to have to make a decision. at's the fundamental principle of the Wits' EndDog Training Method. It's a very powerful technique.

You may not have just a housebreaking problem, but also a behaviour problem. Every timeyou react to your dog's housebreaking mistake, you are reinforcing it as a negative attentiongetting device.

at's HOWE COME screaming NO or scolding or doing anything to call your attention toa behaviour TEACHES the dog he can pull your chain.

Here's what you need to do to end your dog's ability to pull your chain. Any misbehaviouris being reinforced when you confront the dog about the behaviour.

e problem with housebreaking is, you may not know if the accident was because the dogNEEDED to relieve himself, or maybe he didn't KNOW any better, or if he's SICK, or ifhe's just stabbing you in the back for scolding him when he tried to steal your toast thismorning.

So, don't scold, and we can eliminate THAT MAJOR CAUSE of HOWES breakingaccidents.

is becomes a vicious cycle, the punishment or scolding only create more stress andanxiety, which may cause other behaviour problems as a replacement, even thoughconfronting the dog may seem to "work" at the moment.

Obviously, confronting the dog should not have been the recommended method to dealwith this, or any behaviour problem. If that's the kind of advice your getting from your petprofessionals, run like the dickens and tell them to call Jerry.

Keeping the lead on your dog while you go about the house is often recommended, andmight occasionally work. HOWEver, you can't just tie a dog on your belt and expect him toact like a key chain or drag him around like a sack of sand and expect him to set where youleave him. e only time the dog should be on lead with you is when the dog is properlyon command. Otherwise, the restriction will cause stress and further promote otherbehaviour problems.

HOWE can you deal with the dog tied to you if you haven't learned proper lead handlingtechniques? e pup isn't a sack of sand that can be dragged around and dropped anywhereyou put it. Any pulling on the dog's collar will cause out of control behaviour.

It's called the opposition reflex, positive thigmotaxis. Now, when accidents happen, how doyou deal with this? It's real simple, but you have to not let the dog see your reaction, or he'llstill be "rewarded" for the "crime."

Ignore the incident. Walk right past the "mistake." It may not have been a mistake, and youcan't call your physical or verbal attention into the problem without creating more difficultyfor yourself.

Prearrange a soda can with six pennies in it, in a convenient central location. e can mustbe picked up silently and unobtrusively, casually. In the presence of the dog, walk by the"dirty deed."

You should just ask, "what's that?" in a calm, curious tone as you SUBTLY drop the cannext to the spot and continue about some other business, without breaking stride or glaringat the dog or saying ANYTHING further.

at's HOWE you'll address any chewing or other damage. Continue doing something elsefor a moment (like open the window), and then ask the pup if he'd like to do somethinglike go outside, or anything to get him out of the way so that you may clean the spot andretrieve the can without him observing and hearing you cuss under your breath about themess and extra work.

When the dog returns to that room with you, he's going to look at the spot, and look back

up at you. You must tell him he is a good boy, and sound like you really mean it. is willblow the dog's mind, and will render his negative attention getting device that he's usingagainst you, useless.

With a couple examples of this, the dog will begin to search for other ways to commandyour attention. Hopefully, he will pick a positive attention getting device. If not, don'tworry about that, just address the behaviour according to the techniques, and break each inturn, based on their importance to your lifestyle.

All dogs need attention. What you need to do, is give him that attention prior to the doggetting into trouble.

Any time the dog makes even brief eye contact, or glances out of the corner of his eye atyou, that moment requires prolonged (5-15 seconds) of non physical praise unless he's atyour side, and then you may pat him if you like.

Roll-Over or the Alpha Rollover

When your dog presents you with inappropriate displays of dominant behaviour, manybehaviourists, trainers, and veterinarians will recommend the Alpha Rollover as a remedy.

WRONG! e Alpha Rollover as it is performed is a forceful, negative, punishingexperience, administered by dogs and wolves, to dogs and wolves. Mimicked by humans, weare poorly equipped to fulfill the life and death reality expressed in nature, and this setsboth man and beast up for another fall from grace. Who in their right mind is going toattempt to mimic the behaviour of two dogs challenging each other aggressively fordominance in the pack hierarchy? And, if our human stooge does get the upper hand, whatshall he do with the loser? Perhaps sink his teeth into the loser's throat, glaring and growling"No!" Perhaps he will remain in this posture until his poor, frightened little dog, belly up,flanks exposed, urinating all over, gets big enough to turn the tables?

I've never seen this technique successfully done on a mature Great Dane or St. Bernard,although I have often seen the results in mature dogs that had this practice performed onthem when they were little.

ey are the sorts that have problems only with the alpha in his life. Others are notconsidered a challenge worth confronting. Of course, you as a human, would be told to grabthe sides of your dogs throat with both hands, force him onto his back, stare into his face,and growl "No!" until he goes limp into submission.

While this is definitely a display of your dominance over him and in a language he canunderstand, it is perceived as a challenge, which makes this a very dangerous move thatfrequently backfires, inviting a sneak attack in retaliation at some point when the dog feelshe has the upper hand. In nature, this challenge might go on every season, until the alpha isno longer able to continue this winning streak. en, the former alpha goes off alone, or tothe rear of the pack if he's lucky.

Alpha Rollover

From watching mother dogs with their puppies, we have learned the correct way to use adifferent version of the Alpha Rollover as a way to cement the appropriate dominant/submissive relationship between you and your dog. A mom dog, when allowed to raise herpups for several months, not just six weeks, will be seen standing over a resting puppy andchewing on the side of its neck, up behind the ears with her front teeth (as though flea-biting).

Pups enjoy the affectionate encounter, and usually go belly up, relaxed and happy. She issaying, "I'm your elder, and because you respect my authority, I make you feel good." Wehumans can use the same technique and get the same results.

Approach your dog when he is stretched out on his side, relaxed and content. Do not forcehim into this position, and don't startle him if he's asleep.

Stand over him, bend down, and scratch him behind the ear. If he rolls over offering you hisbelly, that's all you need to do. Tell him he's a good boy, and walk off before he gets up.

Mission accomplished! No force, no punishment, no negativity. Remember, your dog isgoing to model your behaviour and act in kind.

You set the standard for good behaviours by demonstration.

Separation Anxiety / Bedtime Calming Surrogate Toy Technique

(Howling, Barking, Whining, Chewing, Messing Stuff Up When You Go Out!) If all of ourtechniques and advice have been followed correctly, there is no obvious reason your dogshould undergo stress just because he's home alone.

Although most dogs (and people) prefer not to be alone, there's never any excuse why yourdog should ever do anything other than what you desire, being his pack leader. If he getsnervous just because you are away, that implies something is amiss. e techniquesarticulated in the obedience section under "four step heeling pattern exercise" will instill inhim a sense of self-confidence that will override his boogey man.

Separation anxiety has NOTHIN to do with separation, it's got to do with NOCONTROLLER to issue commands and corrections to keep him out of more serioustrouble. at's HOWE COME they chew when the "boss" is away. But we have anothersecret to share! Try this before laughing. Like your dog, we don't like to the laughed at! Say"good bye" to an article of his, maybe a toy or a bone.

Do this last after saying goodbye to him. Make a big fuss over this article, explaining thatyou've got to go, and that you expect "it" to behave while your gone.

Put it down, without looking at your dog, and go.

Upon your return, search for and find this article prior to speaking to or in a manneraddressing your dog, even if he is jumping up and down to say hello. Just ignore him untilthis procedure is finished. Pick "it" up and exuberantly explain HOWE much you've missed"its" company while you've been absent, and how pleased you are that "it" has been SOgood while you've been away.

en you may look at and address your dog, regardless of any damage or destruction he'simposed, and tell him he's been good too, and that you've missed him.

Ignore any damage he might have caused in your absence.

is is effective, and will probably "blow his mind."

e next time you need to go out, he's going to try to emulate the behaviour of thisinanimate object.

Now you understand this procedure must be done for four consecutive occasions. Do thison a couple of brief absences, and you'll see the problem disappear.

Of course, we do have a technique using sound to correct any misbehaviour that mightoccur in your absence. Upon your return, disregard any damage. Leave your attitude outside.Don't gasp, sigh, swear, or show any negative emotion.

Say hello, as you should ordinarily, and before touching any damaged or soiled area, searchfor one of those cans. Picking it up very carefully so as to not create any sound, walk pastthe "bad spot" and casually point toward it and ask "What's that?" as you drop the can nextto it, as you continue to go about your business not relative to this incident.

Put your dog out of sight while you clean or repair any damage.

When you're done cleaning and you've invited him back in, he's going to look at that areaand look up at you. Your going to tell him what a good dog he is, even though he wasn't.is will "blow his mind." He's going to wonder, "What can I do to get your attention?"

The Soggy Potato Chip Theory

Here's something that's probably been funded by our federal government, for probablyzillions of dollars in grant money, to some big shots at one of our more prestigiousuniversities.

is psychological study explores the idea that given two bowls of potato chips at a party,one bowl being nice and fresh, the other being old and soggy, that people invited to thisparty will refrain from eating the soggy chips, until all of the fresh ones have been eaten.

With more time, and the absence of any more fresh chips, the soggy ones will be eaten justthe same!

e experiment boils down to the hypothesis that "lacking positive attention, we willsubstitute less desired behaviour to fill the void." Go figure.

Nonetheless, it's true. Lacking positive attention, your pet will do something negative inorder to get the amount of attention he requires.

Your job is to insure that you give proper attention thereby avoiding the negative attention-getting devices that your pet may employ against you. Don't let your attitude or your

temper be seen, as this will be determined by your pet to be the most effective way inwhich to get all of the attention he wants.

Most of the difficulties we have with our pets are as a result of our own resistance to doingwhat we now know is correct. Any time your dog can get you to stop in your tracks, andcommand 100% of your undivided negative attention, you have just inadvertently taughthim how to manipulate you.

Don't make yourself a Victim!

Each time your dog looks at you, even fleetingly, requires a positive verbal response, toappease his need for emotional contact with you.

THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY: ESCHEWOBFUSCATION: at's what we're trying to do, to avoid complicating matters, to clarifythe terminology, without confusing psychobabble.

But if you would like a little bit of psycho type talk, the following should do it for you.ere is plenty of good information in this list, but there is no need to worry about thelanguage in the etiology of behaviour, any more than what is already in the text above.ETIOLOGY: e study of causative factors creating symptoms. DOGS DON'T DOTHINGS WITHOUT REASONS. REASONS: ose reasons may not be obvious to you,but if you looked at life from a dog's point of view, it would be evident. We'll do that later.

But first, when your dog is disruptive, what gets all your attention is its behaviour. Don'tworry about the misbehaviour; find the cause.

As we solve one problem, another will surface in its place. As we become focused on themisbehaviours, our attention further compounds the problem.

In fact, any attention or reaction to misbehaviour can vicariously reward the dog.EXAMPLE; "My dog barks every time I'm on the phone." is always starts a cycle ofdisruption. Any time your dog can break your routine, and command 100% OF YOURUNDIVIDED ATTENTION, HE WINS. SOLUTION: DON'T FALL VICTIM to thesenegative attention-getting devices. Don't engage in a shouting match. Break the cycle subtly,

with distraction techniques as interruptions, and, as always, follow up with immediate, nonphysicalpraise.

e most common cause of problems is the need for DIRECTED ATTENTION.

Unstructured love and attention alone won't suffice. Just exercising your dog cannotstructure his thinking to make him calm and accepting of changes in your family life.ALLELOMIMETIC BEHAVIOUR: is comes from the word "mimic." Your dog willcopy your ACTIONS and ATTITUDES. Monkey see; monkey do. Monkey takes right afteryou!

at's right. Use this to your advantage. If you handle roughly, he'll respond likewise. emore concerned or nervous we are about our dogs behaviour, the more we MAYACTUALLY COMPEL SUCH BEHAVIOUR TO BEGIN! EXAMPLE: If your dog is

about to growl at a stranger and he sees you become upset, he doesn't think we are worriedabout his actions, but those of the stranger. Now he has a real cause to be wary.SOLUTION: Use allelomimetic behaviour to demonstrate a sense of calm and trust. Don'ttake chances, but the more relaxed you must appear.

Many times we see people try to calm their pet by patting. As they become more nervous,they pat faster and faster. is quick patting further excites their pet.

Try to stroke the full length of the body at about the normal rate of respiration.

POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS: e opposition reflex. is is the MOST DIFFICULTCAUSE OF BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS, because we AUTOMATICALLY FALL VICTIMTO IT.

EXAMPLE: As your dog pulls, you pull back. Now you are both pulling. Next, you getfrustrated and mad. en ALLELOMIMETIC BEHAVIOUR COMES INTO THEPICTURE, and your dog copies your actions and attitudes and gets frustrated and mad.What may have begun as a nice walk could soon become a tense, frustrating situation. isanxiety, without a vent or release mechanism, continues long afterward.

SOLUTION: Don't allow pulling. When your dog pulls, relieve the tension on the leash andpraise immediately.

Do this consistently. We have just a split second to praise him after releasing the tension onthe lead or the message will not get across.

Pulling on the leash, even as little as one pound of pressure per square inch, for just a secondand a half is enough to trigger the opposition reflex.

at's just one small example. Here's the real story on POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS, theOPPOSITION REFLEX: ANY PULLING OR EVEN SLIGHT TENSION on your dog'scollar, or PUSHING OR PULLING ON HIS BODY can SHUT OFF his ability to think andor listen to you, even while praising him.

Like when you might ask him to sit, and then reach back to place him, he may just stopgoing into position. Look at it like this: Your dog's first obligation is to oppose you. It's builtin. Once he understands the object of your desire, forget it!

He is naturally obligated to do EXACTLY OPPOSITE....

Physical opposition, say as you reach for his collar while greeting a guest at the door, willcause exactly the behaviour you wanted to avoid. Next, as he becomes familiar with yourhand coming out to restrain him, he consciously goes faster to avoid being restrained.

Physical opposition, as you try to prevent jumping or bolting, or even vocal opposition asyou shout to prevent whining or barking or fighting, can trigger the opposition reflex,compelling the undesirable behaviour to begin.

In just moments your dog can learn to out-maneuver you. is physical opposition soonbecomes a mental opposition. Learn to control without restraint or confronting.

Forced restraint or forced control will always defeat its own purpose. It's like trying to graba handful of water... Try to grab a fistful of water, and all you will get is a wet hand. Scoopgently, and you could empty the whole basin.

Vocal opposition, or shouting, needs further mention.

We see this quite often, especially when people try to prevent fighting or aggression. efirst thing they usually do is express panic by screaming. Just think of how your dog mightcopy this.

HOW CAN WE BREAK POSITIVE THIGMOTAXIS? Four properly timedinterruptions! WITH PRAISE!

VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX: Just as with "Wiley Coyote," compelled to catch the RoadRunner, he cannot stop to think. He sees the Road Runner, cuts the string to the anvil, andinstead of waiting, he is compelled to catch him.

e consequences of this move are not thought out. Strictly reflex. Let's look at this again.Your dog sees a fly overhead, and just snaps him out of the air. is action is not thoughtout. It goes from the eye right through the right side of his brain, to catching it in the air.

at's VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX. What if it were a hornet? Same thing, but with differentconsequences... He'd find out too late.

HOWE about when you see a fly? Most likely you see it and think: You want to grab thefly swatter, make sure the fly isn't on the expensive drapes, and simply send it on to a higherlevel of existence. e thought process is done with the left side of the brain. at's whyyou may miss.

You have to think to aim. No reflex.

HOW CAN WE BREAK THE VISUAL-ORAL REFLEX? Four properly timedinterruptions! WITH PRAISE!

SOMATIC MEMORY: Unconscious, automatic, involuntary, natural reflex. Just as a springor curl regains its shape. Most often, your dog does not think about his actions, just like"Wiley Coyote," he doesn't stop to think out the consequences of his actions. Strictly reflex.

He sees a door, he's gone. He sees you, he jumps. He sees a cat, he's gone. If so much K-9behaviour were reflexive, wouldn't it be fair to believe that he does not understand that hisbehaviour is wrong?

How could you correct him if he doesn't even think he'd done anything wrong?

HOW CAN WE BREAK SOMATIC MEMORY? Four properly timed interruptions!WITH PRAISE!

SURVIVAL INSTINCT: e oral desire.

Your dog is programmed to do what it must to insure the survival of itself and its species.

at's one powerful tool that is often overlooked as a training aid. Most trainers utilize thiswith food bribes. To get results at any price is their motivation.

Other aspects of survival instinct can be more successfully employed. At some point briberywill cause trouble, as with each treat, survival instinct comes into play.

Soon your dog's appreciation level of you is lowered from a mind appreciation to the gutlevel.

When your dog would rather go to his food than you, look out!

Pack mentality is one manifestation of survival instinct. Your dog looks upon his family ashis "pack." We can manipulate this instinct, or be victimized by it.

"Checking back," which is a familiar term with hunters, is a sideways glance to keep fromstraying too far from the hunter, or in our case, the pack or family. Praise when you see yourdog "checking back," and he will move in closer.

If he forges on ahead, turn and he will "check back" on you. If you keep moving away hewill turn to follow. Praise him and he will continue. Just don't get caught checking back onhim, or he will expect you to follow.

is principle will be used effectively in our program later.

Symptoms of behaviour, good as well as bad, may be attributed to survival instinct. esesymptoms may be manifested outwardly or inwardly. Over protectiveness or coweringcould be examples of very closely related but opposite ways of dealing with circumstancesof the environment.

ey are often inter-changeable within the same individual.

Other symptoms of a self-concerned rigid nature could be compulsive scratching, pawlicking side or leg sucking, hiding, balking, withdrawal, cowering, and submissive urination.EXAMPLE: Fear biters can be made to be aggressive biters. "My dog bites/shies out of fearwhen strangers try to pat him."

SOLUTION: WARNING!!! Don't try this without our professional guidance!!! (isgraphic solution is just one of several possibilities.) Teach the dog to bite on command, thusbuilding confidence, overcoming shyness or fear.

HOW CAN WE BREAK ANY OF THESE BEHAVIOURS? Four properly timedinterruptions! WITH PRAISE! CHAINED DOG SYNDROME/BARRIERFRUSTRATION:

Often for convenience, but frequently because of lack of proper control, we must tie orotherwise restrict our pets.

e barrier, crate or chain that is used causes a natural frustration, because everything is outof reach.

is can cause stress, which can result in serious behaviour problems, even extremeviciousness.

is condition needs further mention. It is natural for most dogs to become very protectiveor territorial about the area of their confinement or tie out.

Never allow strangers to greet or pat a dog while tied out or confined in a run or crate.

HOWE can we restrain a dog on a chain or behind a barrier without risking difficulty?Either remove the source of stimulation, such as keeping him out of sight and/or hearing ofchildren, guests, etc., or work to break the cycle of over-stimulation.

EXAMPLE: "I crate my puppy during the day when I'm at work. He seems fine, but getsreally upset when we're home and have to put him inside." SOLUTION: Use thedistraction techniques contained herein to break the barrier frustration syndrome.

HOW CAN WE BREAK THE CYCLE OF OVER-STIMULATION? Four properly timedinterruptions! WITH PRAISE! MALINGER/SUBTERFUGE: To pretend injury or illnessin order to avoid responsibility or work; a scam or ploy to avoid doing something. Dogs aregreat, even witty when it comes to thinking up ways to avoid or get out of doing what youwant.

EXAMPLE: "Every time I try to train my dog, he becomes 'lame,' like the old 'war injury.'"

SOLUTION:

Make sure there is nothing wrong, start to train, and when that old affliction appears, say"You poor baby, I hate to see you so lame. Let's quit this work stuff and we'll take a rideand buy you an ice cream."

As soon as "old sooner" jumps for joy and heads for the car, you've caught him"FLAGRANTE DELICTO." Point it right out to him and really rub it in. Dogs don't like tobe made fun of... the embarrassment might cause a good laugh!

SEPARATION ANXIETY:

When you leave, your dog may become worried that you may not return. Or, because whileyou-are-gone, a visitor or disturbance of some sort may have come by--- causing a tensedisruption.

EXAMPLE: "Every time I go out, my dog barks/whines, chews things, soils the house, etc.He's vindictive. He does it on purpose! I can't leave him alone! I can tell he knows he's donewrong just by the look on his face!" SOLUTION: ere could be several factors involved.If a dog is indiscriminately relieving himself in the house while you are gone, it could becaused by stress if you have been in the habit of scolding him for any mischief he had donein the past.

at could make him nervous enough that he needs to relieve himself every time you goout. Or, it might be the result of barrier frustration, or just a negative attention gettingdevice satisfied by your response upon return.

Don't fall victim to these tactics. Don't scold or make an issue out of these problems.

To cure separation anxiety, refer to the distraction technique in the section, "Using Soundto Correct Bad Behaviour."

BARKING/BITING/CHEWING: e command "OUT" is used to stop any behaviourwith the mouth. As we have discussed, the word "OUT" might ring "Pavlov's bell" if he wasever to have been corrected while with his mom and littermates.

When you use it to stop any misbehaviour, especially something with the mouth, likechewing, aggressiveness or barking, it may get an instantaneous response.

One problem we often see is the dog's natural desire to protect his home and family beingthwarted by his owners desire to raise him in a friendly atmosphere.

If, at the onset of each alarm the dog sounds, he is reprimanded for barking or showingaggression, then he may become overly anxious due to never having been validated for whathe thinks is his obligation to protect the home.

EXAMPLE: "My dog barks at every sound he hears on the street, or when company comes.He's totally out of control. He won't shut up."

SOLUTION: As soon as he starts to bark, praise him. is will validate him for doing agood job; one that he thinks is expected of him. Ask him "what's that?" and go look. Next,tell him "Out, it's O.K., friends." Upon commencement of his next bark, use the sounddistraction technique. If that fails, ask him to come.

is should work very quickly to bring him under control.

CHEWING/RAIDING TRASH CANS/STEALING FOOD:

ese are in the same category as "BARKING/ BITING/CHEWING" because they involvethe mouth and may occur in your presence or behind your back.

e solution lies in breaking the misbehaviour rather than avoiding the problem by meansof hiding food out of reach or moving the trash can.

Don't reinforce the problem by becoming involved with it. If it occurs in your presence,address it, as you will any other behaviour problem by utilizing the sound distractiontechniques. Set aside some time to recreate and solve the problem.

If this occurs when you are not there, here is what should happen:

EXAMPLE: You come home and the dog has chewed the woodwork, bedspread, shoes,trashcan, etc. SOLUTION: Use the technique for curing separation anxiety to prevent thisfrom happening. When it happens, use the sound correction for dealing with problems afterthe fact, like this.

Don't become part of the problem by making a big scene out of it. e damage is already

done. Simply go over and subtly pick up a can, and casually walk over to the damaged area,calmly ask, "What's that?" as you drop the can and casually walk away, without speaking.

Clean up the damage when he is not in sight. e can sounding without praise willemphatically tell him he shouldn't have done that, and you won't be creating furtherproblems by becoming involved. Often, just one correction like this is enough to solve theproblem. BALKING/SHYING/OBSTACLES:

Anyone would balk or become nervous when faced with an unusual or frightening obstacle.One of the biggest problems we have when the dog on leash balks or shies away from

something is that we, through our body language or behaviour reinforce the dogs fear aboutthe situation.

If you negotiate an obstacle calmly and smoothly, the dog will most likely follow your leadand continue through it with little difficulty.

Using proper handling techniques with the lead, and the subtle use of allelomimeticbehaviour, even long ingrained phobias can be overcome in just minutes.

e bonding and sense of security that come with being properly on command can reassureand give confidence to even the most insecure animal. EXAMPLE: "My dog is afraid to getinto the car, elevator, boat ramp, etc." SOLUTION: is is very common, and a majorproblem if it is your dog that won't go into the car or otherwise.

Usually the problem starts when he first balks, by the handler pulling on the leash andtrying to force him inside.

REMEMBER... Any pushing or pulling on the dog's collar will trigger positive thigmotaxis,the opposition reflex, thus compelling exactly the behaviour you wanted to avoid.

Handle the lead properly and ask him to go inside. Face the direction you want him to go,and move forward. Praise immediately. If he balks, repeat the command with sound andpraise again.

Usually it requires no more than two repetitions. SIBLING RIVALRY: SIBLINGRIVALRY???

YES. When you have more than one pet, or when you have children, this can be a bigproblem. If you scold one sibling (children included) in front of the other(s), a naturalresentment or jealousy is instigated. is is common with any peer group, adults as well,office workers, etc.

e others take this as an opportunity to follow your lead and use their authority to furtherhumiliate or even attack the "trouble maker."

Given that scolding is a poor example of proper discipline, it need not be mentioned at thispoint. EXAMPLE: "My dogs fight if they have a bone, (or food, or a pat, etc.)."SOLUTION: Set the example of proper leadership and don't engage in verbal arguments asour attitude will only be copied. And don't show physical attention to jealous dogs in front

of each other.

Use all of these training techniques as a guide.

When you see an argument beginning, resort to praise. Praise? Yes. is will always be yourfirst response to diffuse and solve a problem.

As always, avoid physical praise, as it will in this case create worse jealousy. If properdiscipline and leadership are expressed, the dogs do not have an option to fight amongthemselves.

COMMUNICATION: Dogs can communicate in a variety of interesting ways. ey oftenhave a pretty good sense of humour, and are often caught in lies and deception. Dogs neednot be as obvious as to bark to make known their wishes.

Sometimes, growling may only be an effort at vocalization, with no malice intended. Subtleattempts, like maybe a shuffle of feet, a wrinkle on the face or brow, panting or chatter ofteeth, in the dog's mind, are clear-cut messages.

Take notice and he will do the rest. He will be consistent, although the samesignals/signs/gestures may apply to several needs.

EXAMPLE: Your dog chatters his teeth. Look at him and say, "Good boy, what do youwant?"

He may say, "It's about time you noticed me!"

SOLUTION: Ignore his sarcasm. Ask if he wants to do this, that, or the other thing, andwhen he gives a big sigh, DO IT!

I've quoted other dog trainers and authors on dog behaviour in the misstatement that "dogsdon't think." In light of the fact that I've also have quoted and subverted most of theirtraining techniques as nonsensical and ineffective, let's not get boggled down in semantics.

My philosophy is based on experience and observation: e abilities to think, rationalizeand solve problems are learned qualities. By challenging our dogs to think, they develop theareas of the brain where thinking, rationalizing and solving problems occur.

DOMINANCE: Your dog needs dominance, MENTALLY, NOT PHYSICALLY.

Lacking proper direction, your dog must become dominant. It is survival. In the humanfamily, as he expresses dominance, he realizes something is drastically wrong.

is causes insecurity and frustration, so any change in the household becomes intolerable.

Dogs have many different ways of expressing dominance, in subtle yet physical ways. eirobjective may not be really to take over, but be aware that the casual standing on your footmay actually be one of their sly attempts at self-expression.

Forewarned is forearmed.

ese attempts may be as subtle as nudging or covering you with a paw or chin, to actuallymounting. In a mature dog, this could lead to more aggressive behaviour.

When your dog comes over with a ball in his mouth, and drops it at your feet, and you stopto pick it up, he just established control.

Don't fall into his subtle trap. Tell him he has to wait. en, after a couple of minutes,when you pick it up, ask him if he wants to play ball. He's going to think, "How did youknow I wanted to do that?" en, it will be you initiating the lead, setting the role for himto follow.

State Conditioned Learning

State Conditioned Learning is when we learn a particular skill under a particularcircumstance or setting.

is may mean we may not have that behaviour or skill readily available to the reflexive orkinaesthetic memory system, when we want to access that learned skill, behaviour, orinformation, in another situation or setting, until it is GENERALIZED.

In other words, every aspect of the environment and circumstances surrounding a learningsituation is "linked" to the behaviour or information we are studying.

For example, a college student studying for exams might drink excessive amounts of coffee,or have a couple of beers while studying. e next morning during the exam, theinformation learned while in the state of mind accessed while studying under the influenceof caffeine or alcohol, is NOT ACCESSIBLE to the student, unless opened up, with thesame amount of caffeine or alcohol as used during the learning process the night before.

at's HOWE COME it's often recommended to study and take notes with the exact samepen you'll be using to take an exam.

ese SMALL CRITERIA add up to BIG ADVANTAGES or BIG LOSSES, when it comesdown to the nut cutting.

As dog trainers, it is important to bring as many of the peripheral attributes of the learningenvironment into play, when trying to repeat a learned behaviour in another setting orcircumstance.

is USUALLY REQUIRES repetition of the learning process in four differentenvironments, to GENERALIZE the idea or behaviour.

Scientific conditioning is enhanced, and memory is more easily accessed, when more detailsare added to the learning situation.

Hence. the more generalized the information or behaviour will become.

at's why when training your dog, it BEHOOVES YOU to use both hand signals and voicecommands AT THE SAME TIME.

is will create more "memory locator tags" to the learned behaviour. Pulling down anyONE memory locator tag pulls down ALL of the associated memory.

Distractions are considered by MOST trainers to be a detriment in the early stages oftraining.

THAT'S INSANE. Learning with many stimuli of the environment makes for a morequickly and deeply ingrained behaviour.

Many behaviours are what we call state dependent, i.e., depending on the circumstances andenvironment we've learned something in, repeating or eliminating as many similar butdifferent stimuli mimicking the first instance the behaviour was elicited, will facilitategeneralizing the behaviour and will make it happen for you...

Bear in mind, the "territory" extends well beyond the physical plane. e state of mind, oremotional conditions at the time the behaviour was learned, will also have the sameusefulness, if we recognize and access or avoid accessing, such states of mind.

is is HOWE COME so many of our "expert" trainers here encounter failure in the trialring, because they are NOT ALLOWED to use the force and corrections they've used whiletraining the dog initially. ey're not accessing that same state of fearfulness or intimidationin the dog's mind where the lessons have been stored.

Training Behaviours Using Territorial Instinct

Everyone agrees dogs are territorial creatures of habit, that's HOWE COME we can trainthem.

e environment they are in has much bearing on HOWE the dog will respond to astimulus, based on his appreciation of the area as "his territory" or "his or toy" "his people,"etc., as well as his past habits regarding those behaviours, such as door charging or bolting,toy and food guarding, protectiveness, aggression, barking, and just about every command orissue you'll always need to deal with.

ese behaviours are reinforced in his environment or territory, and therefore may not beEZ to change without changing his environment. Removing the dog from his familiarterritory, or taking him to "neutral grounds" as is often recommended for introducing a dogto get along with a new dog in your home, or taking the dog to a different area to train, if hehas difficulty maintaining control in his own area, is the same idea as I'm getting at here...

Keep in mind that when we teach a command or break a habit, we need to generalize thearea. at's HOWE COME taking a dog to neutral territory to meet and new dog works,because we've got no habituated or other proprietary issues to consider.

Let's say your dog bolts or charges through, or sneaks out the front door. He's already got ahistory of doing that, and has a history of not coming back once he's made the break.

Or let's say, you've got a dog who guards her bone or toy or any other object, and won't letyou remove it.

Or maybe we've got a dog who's just very protective of guests coming in the home orbackyard. Every incident you've encountered with these behaviours has further reinforcedthe behaviours, so by the time you recognize that you've got to address the issues, they'realready long ingrained, and it's likely to take more effort to retrain or break the habits.

So, when we begin to address a behaviour, taking the dog out of his familiar territory willbreak much of his reflexive behaviours based on his past experiences with those behaviours.

Let's say we're talking about the dog bolting out the front door. If we attempt to break himof going through your front door where he is already habituated to bolting through onoccasion, we would be complicating our efforts were we to begin with teaching the conceptof NOT bolting through doors using his own front door as a starting point.

Take the dog out of the environment he is familiar with, and the habit will no longer have a"trigger" associated with it.

Try working the exercise from a neutral territory, maybe another door in another room ofyour house.

Maybe ask a friend whom the dog is not familiar with their home, if you can visit for anhour with your dog to teach him not to go out of the door. at will give you a stronglikelihood that you can quickly and easily change his approach to thinking about doors ingeneral. After just a few demonstrations to the dog, any door is just a door, not to be tochallenged passed or through without permission.

e same approach would be effective for teaching a shy or aggressive dog to accept guestsin the house. If he's not aggressive toward people when he's outside at the park, then itmakes sense the reason he'd be aggressive in his own back yard or inside his house, isbecause he is territorially protecting his environment.

Taking him into another similar but different environment, will likely negate his sense ofownership, and diminish his past reinforcement of the protective behaviour..., so that newbehaviours can be conditioned without the protective thoughts that have been associatedand reflexes conditioned over time.

Same goes for the toy or bone or food guarding. He's likely to have reflexive behaviours tosomeone trying to touch his dish or bone. Taking him to neutral territory, like maybefeeding him in another room while initially working with taking the dish or article awayfrom him in an environment he is not familiar with, will negate his past behaviour and hisreinforced successes at keeping the object.

Example: if your dog is possessive of his bone, take three bones with you on a somewhatlong walk. Give him one as you're casually moving along, and awhile later as you continuewalking, offer him the second, and keep moving slowly forward. He's likely to want to giveyou the first to get the new one, and so forth. en, go to another environment the nexttime and do the same.

Many behaviours are what we call state dependent, i.e., depending on the circumstances andenvironment in which we've learned something. Repeating or eliminating as many similarbut different stimuli mimicking the first instance the behaviour was elicited, will facilitategeneralizing the behaviour and will make it happen for you...

Bear in mind, this "territory" extends well beyond the physical plane. e state of mind, oremotional conditions at the time the behaviour was learned, will also have the sameusefulness, if we recognize and access or avoid accessing, such states of mind...

Anchoring and Triggering States Of Mind

Here's a valuable tool you may use on your dogs, your mates, your children, youremployee's, anyone, anytime, anywhere at all.

We're going to look at setting or linking a favourable state of mind to a cue of some sort,and triggering that state of mind, when circumstances are appropriate or when changing thestate of mind of our dogs, children, mates, etc., is desirable.

We may use any kind of a cue, signal, sound, touch, whatever, just so long as it is consistentand EXACT, for use with the same state of mind we are looking to access.

Additionally, we may link several states of mind to each other, and trip them one at a timein succession, to develop a highly charged thought pattern.

Here's HOWE it works. Picture a beautiful scenario. Develop that thought to the extentyou actually feel you are there on that beach or mountain top.

When you think you can smell the sea breeze or mountain air, touch a spot on your bodythat you will always use to access that state of mind. Next, add a favourite companion orother accoutrement, and when that thought is fully developed, touch another spot to use asa trigger point. Continue to add mental stimuli to this visualization technique.

Be sure you only set the trigger point when each thought is fully visualized and felt. Use allof your senses during this visualization and anchoring process.

en, take a break, think about something totally different. en repeat the exercise beingsure to use the correct scenarios with the corresponding trigger points, with as much joy andpleasure as you can muster.

Repeat the process a few times. e benefit is about to be seen, as you try to use thisconditioned state of mind for a practical purpose.

Perhaps use it to dispose of a though or feeling of something distasteful or fearful, aboogeyman, if you will. When you reach that thought of the "boogeyman," trigger the firstpoint, and proceed to the next, and then the next.

You'll feel the stressor collapse, you'll find yourself no longer accessing the state of dread,the next time this boogeyman raises it's ugly head.

And if it ever does, just touch the anchor points and they'll collapse it once again.

You can use this technique to overcome any kind of fears or phobias or aggression your doghas.

To use this on your dog, you've got to catch him in the act of REALLY enjoying himself orreally occupied in a state of mind, to install the triggers. Just be sure to condition the stateof mind using the exact same trigger mechanisms linking one or more drives or emotions tocarry the idea over into a command.

Do that with praise and timing in conjunction with the commands, even if the dog hasmade a mistake.

He is obligated to "catch up" with the flow, or be left out of the excitement. Do that bypraising every eye contact, even if it's only a momentary glance.

When that dog looks over at you, you gotta be praising him like he did something great.at way, the dog is always expecting lots of positive attention, and he knows howe to getit when he starts feeling like doing something like getting into mischief... It's a safe way thedog can pull your strings, and not interrupt your routine to get some attention.

e praise can be substituted with a hand signal like the international O.K. sign, or even awink. My dogs will wink at me when they want to get cute or make me laugh... 10D.Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training

I've got my dogs behind a four foot fence. ey'll jump that fence as though it weren't thereat all. e fence doesn't keep them in, their training does. If I want them to hop the fence,no problem. My front windows are open. ey can just walk right through, if they want.Why don't they just go?

I want them to stay, that's why they don't split. Use the sound distraction and praisetechnique to teach your dog your borders. Teach him not to go within three feet of thefence ANYWHERE in the yard.

You'll need to be judicious about alternating the direction of the sound, never twice insuccession from the same direction. And you'll need to be cautious about NOT accidentallymaking a sound. If you should (and you probably will) accidentally create a sound, THATCOUNTS. FOLLOW the technique and use that accidental sound as though it wereintentional...don't break the progression of events, even from one day to the next. Casuallywalk about the yard, and as the dog approaches the three foot border, create the sound andpraise profusely for five to fifteen seconds as you step back, and then casually move ontowards that spot again, and repeat.

Go through the yard randomly approaching the borders and make the sound from you onone occasion, and from the ground in front of him on the next occasion. Make the sound ata spot praising and stepping back ALL AT THE SAME TIME, and move forward andrepeat and continue working each spot straight on, back and forth, until she no longerapproaches that spot as you approach it.

Go round like that addressing each spot where he violates the three foot border until hewon't cross the border. BE SURE TO PRAISE WHEN HE RECOGNIZES THAT SPOT

AND THINKS OF GOING OVER IT... don't TRY to make him violate it, let him attemptto trespass on his own Increase your speed as you develop confidence in the technique...then, when you KNOW he won't violate the spot while you're in the yard with her, leavehim there, and go outside the fence and work the same routine, luring him to violate theborder ONLY BECAUSE YOU are approaching the fence.

Once you see that he remains steady as you move straight forward and back to "lure" himforward into the fence WITHOUT ENCOURAGING HIM to trespass, you are then readyto eyeball him from inside the house or outside the fence, until you know he won't go overthe border. Repeat the procedure a couple times a day for a couple of days, and that's theend of that story. If you did everything correctly, he won't challenge the fence. For thefuture, observe him and at the first sign that he is willing to violate the border, repeat theprocedure and you'll be fine. Now, that's to teach him not to go out. What you should do,in order to settle him so he has no desire to go out, is to do the heeling pattern exercise inpart 2 of the manual. It'll take you three or four short sessions to get the exercise learnedproperly. en, do a five minute session daily or every other day for about a week, and thenonce every three days for a few weeks just to keep him balanced.

e heeling exercise is POWERFUL MEDICINE. I've seen extremely nervous or shy dogstotally overcome their phobias with ONLY that as a remedy in about one weeks time...THIS CONCLUDES PART ONE OF THE W.E.D.T.M. MANUAL

PART IIObedience

We'll be approaching our obedience training program as a piecemeal quilt puzzle; that is tosay, that any one point has got to fit within the entire context, and as you develop skills, youmay "mix and match" commands to suit your needs or situation at that moment.

But we do have a procedure that is very much like the kind of steps you would follow asthough you were starting your car or computer system.

ese steps are like your keys to your car or password to your files. It's unlikely that yourdog, when trained, will listen to anyone that does not approach the "control panel" to hismind, without the "keys" imbedded in this series of commands.

He'll understand that anyone asking business of him is not approved, without "them keys."

Practice on a daily basis should not exceed four minutes to accomplish the exercises.Practice needs to be performed at least every second day. With problem dogs, this is critical.

If you are using this training to suffice your dog's emotional needs, whether it be anxietyfrom separation, aggression, or stress from any source, the benefits of this exercise will wearoff in three days, at least until some time down the road.

Also, dogs do tend to forget a lesson if it has not been re-enforced for several days. After theinitial training period, practice may be limited to once a week.

When your dog becomes fully trained and his behaviour is not an issue or goal forimprovement, a brief exercise should be formally done once a week, later once a month.

We are going to give your pet 100% of your undivided positive attention, in an intense,four- minute exercise, which will have the benefit of exercising the dominant andsubmissive nature of your dog's personality. ese "natures of your dog's personality" areeasily accessed through the positions and postures in relationship to yourself, as you andyour dog perform your obedience routines.

Each position will elicit particular sorts of body language from your dog (and vice versa, soact natural).

If you pay close attention you can determine how well or not your dog is relating to you.

Each exercise or command in the following text will articulate what must be paid closeattention, and how to make this knowledge work for you and your dog.

We have special routines to break stress and tension, as well as methods to expressdominance and elicit and enforce strict, exacting discipline. You will develop a feel for theseas you progress through this system. e Method GUARANTEES total non physicalcontrol, but you've got to give up forced control entirely or you'll be challenging the dogand you'll learn the hard way..."I told you so." Any time you are in doubt about what yournext move should be, just relax, take your time to review in your mind the exercise you areperforming, and then execute the correct move.

Everything has a particular progression. Admittedly, this is a complicated system.HOWEver, there is no need to worry about mastering the technique and psychologyinvolved right away.

It will become very clear as you begin to work on it. Just as we will expect your dog tolearn something new with practice, you too will develop a sense for what we are doing, butonly with practice.

You'll develop a feel for what we're doing. e pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, and,like a jigsaw puzzle, you start by dumping the whole thing out in front of you and then tryto put it in some sort of order.

ink of our method like that puzzle. Keep in mind also that things change here, accordingto what has been mastered.

Ask Your Dog to Work

We'll start with a preliminary command to set the tone for our lesson. Ask your dog if hewould like to go to work.

Do so in an upbeat manner, with a questioning tone, as you lean or step backward just alittle bit, praising all the while. (For more details on this, see the "Hot and Cold" exercise, inPart I of the W.E.D.T.M. Manual.)

We don't care if he wants to "go to work" or not. He's going to, but we would do muchbetter if he were looking forward to enjoying it. is does not mean we're going to play,because just as soon as you finish this phrase "Do you want to go to work? Good boy,"you're going to follow through with his next command to come to order.

Back To Work

"Back to work," is his next command, it's rather like the command "attention" in themilitary. It functions as a tool we can utilize to command his attention under emergencyconditions as well as for daily requests to come to order... "Back to work" is to be followedin the same breath, without pausing or hesitating, with the forthcoming commands, while atthe same time giving the hand signals and foot signals.

It's going to seem much like rubbing your head and patting your stomach at the same time.

ere are several events that are going to take place one after the other, quickly insuccession.

Your hand signal and foot signal will coincide with the voice commands. It's crucial thatsignals and voice commands all coincide, as your dog will be learning all of these at once.

Stay

e "stay" command is very complicated. ere are two hand signals and a foot signal aswell as, of course, your voice command. It changes depending on whether you are at theside or "heel" position, or at a distance in front of him, or whether you are leaving his sidewith him remaining behind, or if you are returning toward him.

Don't worry about anything other than the hand signal from the side at this point.

Leaving your dog on the stay command is covered later. It's simple, but get used to thebasics first. Stay from the side is a sweeping motion with your left hand coming forward,high from above your elbow, fingers together, as if to touch the tip of your middle finger tothe top of your dogs nose, being careful to keep your hand from breaking into your dogsvision directly over his head. We don't need to be close, just in the line of peripheral visionat about 15 degrees his snout. Give it high and forward of your body. Follow through bybringing your hand back up and sweeping it around toward your chest, placing your leftwrist at your dog's right shoulder, as you place your palm on his breast bone, as you pat himonce or twice, and continue into the "sit straight" (or "stand straight" or "down straight")command, described below.

What I'm trying to show is the stay signal comes in high in front and is brief. e hand thenrecedes high in an arch towards the handler before coming into the dog's chest parallel to hisright shoulder.

e idea being that we don't want to lean over the dog to set his chest, neck, and head. It's adefensive position as some dogs may snap, that's why we're calming them in theforthcoming moves.

Sit From the Side

Sit from the side involves just the hand and voice signals. e left palm comes up, untilyour elbow is bent ninety degrees. In due course, all you'll need to do is cup your palm. Butfor now, let's make it easy for your dog to notice.

Sounds pretty easy, so let's throw in some body language.

Before your dog has completed any command in these series, the next command in thatseries will be issued. We will do this slowly, so that your dog can think out what you areasking yet moving into the next phase before the prior has been completed.

Not too slowly, but not too fast.

You're going to be leading and directing his attention, rather than his body. His body willfollow his attention and thoughts.

When you are ready to begin the "return to heel command," get a visual fix on a landmark,so as to be sure to orient yourselves correctly after your dog has completed sitting. At the

beginning, we'll not worry too much about this orientation, or for that matter, anyorientation, but it will quickly become extremely important to be precise.

Your hand signal for "return to heel" is with your left index finger, pointing to the groundjust behind your left side, as you look down and back, toward where your finger is pointing.Leaning your weight on your right foot, so as to facilitate the movement of your left footsignal, just about one half step backward, not too far so as to lose balance, but enough to getyour dog inspired to move. is is an action command, and the motion you use will helpstart your dog's movement.

At the same time your left foot moves, your hand signal and eyes will be pointing andmoving in sync with your foot, as your upper body twists, just kind of a quarter turn lefttwist of your upper body as your foot moves, and back to forward.

"Back to work, heel, good boy, nice dog, sit, stay, good dog." at's your voice command toget him to the return to heel position.

When this series has finished, and while you are still saying "good dog," you'll need to pathim, just once or twice on his chest, as you give him his next command to "sit straight," andadjust his front square at your side, by lifting his weight by his breast bone, and move hisfront just a little, as you help (actually cheat), by adjusting yourself at the same time to besquare at the heel position.

Next, run your hand from his breast bone up under his throat, to his chin, at which pointyou'll repeat your stay signal, as you run your hand down one side of his body from the leftshoulder down along his ribs. en the right side, then, to one front foot, then the next.You'll see later.

Heel vs. Return to Heel

e heel position means your dog's shoulders must be parallel to your knees. Return to heelis the means by which he arrives there. Both commands are action words and requiremovement on your part to teach your dog what it means. e voice command for bothtasks is the same.

e movement of your left foot and the direction you point your index finger and directyour eyes do change, depending whether you are going to move forward on the heel, or tohave your dog return at your side to resume the heel position.

It is imperative that your dog return to the heel position in the manner described herein.Many guides to training for the obedience ring, Schutzhund, and police dog training willpermit your dog to return to the heel position by moving himself around behind thehandler, coming in toward your right side and around to your left, from behind you.

Avoid this, as it is likely to create problems. Likewise, if you allow your dog to "come"when called, and resume his place at your side, you're looking for trouble, although it isallowed in other methods.

Every detail is important for matters only your dog understands at this time!

e return to heel is done entirely on the left side. If he circles into the left side in aclockwise direction, he's giving us his dominant side. If he's turning in a counterclockwisedirection, he's looking up at you ready to work willingly.

e come is important to cause a sense of subordination and dominance in the front, andpartnership in the return to heel.

Familiarity breeds contempt...We want to keep it formal to instill discipline. e heelposition is one of equality. It's as if you were to go out to the field to hunt. You would heelyour dog to an area you want to search, and then give him his opportunity to do his dogthing.

At the moment you send him off to search, he's taken the position of leader. Once he makeshis find, he gives that job back to you. You fire, and he's in charge again. He gets his bird,and brings it back to you and gives it up to his leader.

en he gets another chance to repeat this performance. It's a 50/50 proposition. at'swhere we'd like to start. Fair, 50/50. But first, we still have to finesse the commandsequence to get there.

Try this sequence without your dog, but with your leash in your hands, and in the privacyof the most comfortable place you can find. If you are fortunate enough to have a friend orfamily member interested enough to help out, give them the script to follow, and havethem read to you and supervise the details. When you're ready to try working this on yourdog, only try the command sequence once or twice, and then tell him he's "free."

"You're free" is a command just as important as heel or sit. It tells him he can relax. Make itsound like the umpire who says, "Play ball!"

Don't forget to smile and say, "Good boy."

Review in your mind, how your dog took to this, and how you performed your commands.

Don't worry about making your dog actually perform his commands. We have plenty oftime to teach him, and you both are just getting used to many different stimuli. It'simpossible for you to make mistakes at this time. In other words, if your dog doesn't knowwhat you want, then he won't realize when you have made a mistake. And besides, you'rein charge, and can make or break any rules you choose!

Starting and stopping this command sequence is good exercise, as it is brief, and comfortablefor your dog. Feel free to ask him to "go back to work, heel, sit, stay, good boy, sit straight,"several times a day if you like, but only do it once at each session, ending as always, with"You're free."

You may escape from any command sequence only upon completion of that sequence.However, you can escape any situation or command sequence by asking your dog to "come."

Your "come" command has been described earlier under "conditioned reflex." At that time,we were only interested in the "come" command. Now, you are going to learn to have yourdog come and sit in front of you, before returning to the heel position. is sequence will

always be followed exactly at any time you issue the "come" command.

When your dog comes to you, he is subordinating himself to you. When you ask him to sitin front of you, you are dominating him. When you ask him to return to heel, he's onceagain equal.

Use this!

When you ask your dog to return to heel, and maybe he "snubs" you, just repeat thecommand with sound followed by instant praise, on the word heel.

Failing that, simply give up on that request, and ask him to "come." You'll need to switchthe lead to your left hand, use the signal for come with the right hand, and certainly beprepared to enforce the come command with sound, if you find it necessary to repeat thecome command. Work as quickly as you can, but take your time to make sure the timing iscorrect. You should begin to see a pattern developing here. *at when the dog fails toperform a command the next command is come.

Sit From the Front

While working commands from the front of your dog, do not practice the recall or comecommand, until he is proficient with the other aspects of these commands, or you'll createproblems with all of the following. We have just learned the command "sit from the side"or heel position, and, as with most commands, each different position or orientation willappear to your dog to be an altogether different command. Even commands given from adifferent distance than what has been familiar, is equally as difficult as learning thecommand initially.

e hand signal is only slightly different, being given with the right hand. As it was with theoriginal command from the side, we'll give a full upward sweep of the hand, bringing it upfrom your side by your leg, until the forearm is parallel to the ground with the palm up.Once he becomes familiar with your commands, the signal can be diminished to justcupping your hand briefly.

When you ask your dog to come, it is required that he sit himself so he is directly in front ofyou, his toes about 6 inches away from your toes. is is a crucial element of establishingstrict discipline. It is a good barometer of how readily your dog is willing to work for you. Ifhe comes and sits directly in front of you with his back toward you, this could indicateseveral possibilities.

e first likelihood is that he is not willingly working as your subordinate. In this case, hemay be trying to establish the 50/50 equality we discussed earlier in the heel command.Remember, when he comes and sits in front of you, he is looking up to you as anappropriate authority figure and thereby subordinating himself.

We know that dogs do not do things for no reason. erefore, if he has chosen to performthis command incorrectly, it may be for reasons other than simply to challenge yourauthority. Perhaps, in his opinion, he has done this for security measures, and has changedhis orientation to your command.

Were that to be the case, we might allow this discrepancy to permit him to observe thesuspected or perceived threat.

If that were the case, asking him to return to heel would cause him to back himself into theheel position, without taking his eyes off of the front view. at would be O.K. undercertain circumstances.

Right now, we'll look at this as an example of performing the command incorrectly due toinexperience. is is why we have not yet covered how to get your dog to sit.

It's important to understand that accomplishing a command is not relevant to our agenda.So first of all, you must hurry up and relax.

When we ask our dog to sit from any position, it is our ultimate goal to get him to sitexactly where we indicate. erefore, whether he sits or not, is secondary to our ultimategoal.

is is important mainly to enforce strict discipline. In other words, we have the option tocause our dog to work harder and harder to satisfy our request.

I'm trying to show the difference between what we want for today Vs what we'll want in afew days.

Today it's only important to teach the sit command, so wherever we get it, we're thrilled. Ina couple of days we'll only settle for exactly straight to the side or in front, etc.

We will apply the knowledge and techniques on which we've been working in order toformat a routine for training and temperament development. is routine is the heelingpattern exercise, which will give you the ability to exercise your dog's mind in a mannerthat cannot be accomplished through any other means. e heeling pattern will exercisewill balance the dominant and submissive nature of your dog's personality, and it onlyrequires about four minutes of work.

The Heeling Pattern Exercise

Start your dog, as you always will, by showing him the lead and asking him if he wants to goto work. Follow through by telling him he's a good boy, and then order him "Back to work,"follow through with heel, good boy, nice dog (to keep his attention), and ask him to sit.

Remember now, that on the return-to-heel, your left foot and index finger will be the signalor CUE, and the movement of the left foot and hand, must coincide with the voicecommand.

All of your weight must be on the right foot. As your dog returns to the heel position hemust return counter clockwise on your left side, and square himself to the heel position. Asin all of these exercises you must orient yourselves by using a landmark in relationship tothe direction you are facing, and make sure that your dog, when finished, is properly linedup towards it. But let's not get ahead of ourselves.

If he refused to turn counter clockwise, that could indicate a problem, such as an effort toresist working properly for you. However, to be fair, we must be certain this is the case. It'spossible that he is "left-handed." We'll see very shortly.

First, we must accomplish getting him to sit. We expect your dog will not want to sit whenyou ask him. While he is making the counter clockwise turn, when his nose is pointingdirectly opposite of yours, you will ask him to sit.

Do not wait for him to complete turning around, or he will continue moving out ofposition. Follow through with the stay signal (and voice command) before he comes to a sit.

NOW we can work on the sit!

As you collect your lead by inching your way down the half-length of it with your righthand, you may extend your right arm with the elbow straightforward *elbow locked andarm straight ahead. to take up the extra slack and prevent his head from spinning around.

Your left hand can reach back, as you shift your weight on to your left foot, and put yourmiddle finger and thumb just in front of his hips. In this manner you will be able to movewith him if he tries to move around. You can pivot to maintain the heel position whilenegotiating the sit but you must not walk from that spot.

You can control the front of your dog with the lead, by gently applying alternating tensionon the lead as you gently touch without applying pressure, to try to get him to flex his rearinto the sitting position. When he begins to flex to assume the sit, your hand must comeaway from his rear, and follow through with the stay signal. Do not try to push him all theway down, and do not try to force him into the position.

Just touch the middle finger and thumb in front of the hip a for a moment till he pushesback, and immediately release. If he begins to flex to assume the sit, your hand must comeaway from his rear, and follow through with the stay signal and the praise and then the sitstraight command, etc.

If he didn't sit as we'd expect, you may repeat the command a second time, with a soundcue accompanying the signal and voice followed immediately by prolonged, non physicalpraise. Continue working in this manner until it seems that he no longer remembers yourrequest or resists.

at being the case, you may in a conversational tone, repeat the command and hand signalwithout a sound cue for your third request to sit during this command sequence.

While negotiating the sit, it is appropriate if necessary, to turn in any direction to maintainthe heel position to your dog's shoulder.

It doesn't matter where you end up facing to the original point of orientation, so long as youfind him sitting at the heel position. Praise him for completing the sit, and then ask him tosit straight, as you adjust him towards the orientation point or landmark that you werefacing originally.

Now you must adjust him to the appropriate position. Don't try to do this all at once, oryou'll upset the apple cart! At first, just square him to your side till he feels comfortablebeing adjusted.

You'll extend your right arm to control his front; the left foot must remain stationary at theheel position. e right foot may step back a few inches as you bend at the knees, and usingthe left palm on the large muscle of the rear leg of your dog, gently push just a little as youask him to sit straight.

Be sure to follow through with the stay signal, and praise. Once again you may adjust hisfront. Soon, you will be able to turn him any amount in order to accomplish making himreturn to the heel position. And after just a few days of practice, he'll adjust himself on yourcommand "sit straight."

Of course, all of the above presumes that your dog performed the initial phase of the returnto heel command. If he did not, then you will have to ask him a fourth request with soundon the cue word to "return to heel" (the command to your dog is simply heel, the "returnto" is for your understanding only).

So, let's say he refuses the fourth request. at's O.K. Simply place the handle of your leadinto the left hand, and step backwards dropping the length of the lead while giving thecome command signalling with the right hand, and collect the lead, taking the half length inyour right hand, and placing it into your left palm along with the handle of the lead.

Your signal, of course, for the come command must accompany the voice command. Asyou move backward, you may go as little or far as you need to accomplish getting him tocome straight in to you. e come command should have been properly conditioned earlier,so that now all you need to do is work on sit from the front!

While he's in motion on the recall, ask for the sit before he gets to you. Do this while he isabout three feet away. is will give him time to process thinking of your command.

Your lead will be in your left hand, and you may shorten it by taking the length with yourright hand, and slide it through your left palm, as you follow through with the hand signal tosit from the front.

Keep that signal open, and wait. Stand erect, and try to lean towards him a little. Bring yourright hand forward, and with the middle finger and thumb, touch just in front of his hipbone.

If he starts to flex into position, follow through with the stay signal, even before he hasfinished sitting. Of course, you will follow through with praise, and while doing so, pat himon the chest as you ask him to "sit straight," and adjust him square in front of you.

You may turn as much as is necessary to maintain the position directly in front of your dog.Where he sits is relevant only to his position to you at this time. If necessary, you may

repeat the command to "sit from the front," using sound on the cue word (the command sitis for the dog, and sit from the front is for your clarification).

As soon as you've got him seated squarely in front of you, the lead will be placed into yourright hand, and complete the exercise by returning him to the heel position.

Now you're ready to move forward on the heel. Your voice command must coincide withthe movement of your left foot, your eyes must be directed forward, you may signal withyour left index finger forward, and step forward speaking to him as though he were workingperfectly.

You'll go forward at least three full steps, speaking a word of praise with each step. If hemoves along with you, that's fine. If not, that's O.K.; collect your lead as you step directlybackward into the heel position.

Some dogs will simply sit there. Give a second request using sound on the cue word andsignal, and follow through as before. If he again refuses to move along into the heel, simplystep back again, and prefix your third request as before.

If he has broken the sit command, disregard that. e prior command is not being broken,the new command "heel" is the one we're now concerned with.

is point is crucial so don't rush through it!

Let's look at this from your dog's point of view. Your dog is sitting at the heel position. Youstep forward on the heel, and he lies down. He broke the heel command, not the sit.

Once a new command is issued, the previous command no longer exists.

So, once again you find yourself on the heel command, three steps in front of your dog, andhe is sitting at the starting point. After your fourth request to heel, give up on that, and askhim to come. Of course, he must come to a sit in front of you, and after all of theprerequisites have been attended to, return him to heel, and try again.

Now you should be working well, with the default system being quite well understood byyour dog. As we move forward on the heel, expect him to do so for only three steps.

I don't expect he'll want to cooperate, and even if he did, it's still his obligation to try to getaway with as much as he can!

As he breaks forward on the heel, usually on your third step forward, simply reverse yourdirection by pivoting in the exact opposite direction, being sure not to allow any contactwith the collar. We don't want to make him follow you. Anyone can take a dog on a six-inch length of chain, and force him to heel. It does not matter if you are forcing him on asix-inch chain, or a six-foot lead.

Any force is undesirable, and will result in problems. Doing these exercises correctly doesnot require that your dog perform properly, just you!

Each time your dog charges past your side, simply make a sound and praise as you reverse,moving smoothly and fluidly, exactly opposite of the direction his nose is pointing. He willbreak past you, maybe every three steps. And you will alternate sounds with praise as youreverse.

Soon, he's going to do one of three things, and your response should be spontaneous and

fluid at each of these junctures. We will deal with each possibility in turn.

He will go behind you on your right side. If he does this, you will pivot to your left.

He will not turn with you. At this point, you should simply give up on the heel command,and ask him to come. By now you should realize that the lead must be put into your lefthand, etc., before asking for the "recall" or "come" command.

is requires a sit from the front, before returning once again to the heel position. Followthrough with the sit from the side, and begin again.

He will cut you off by shouldering in front of your knee. is time, you're going to handlethings just a little bit differently. As he tries to cut you off, he's actually trying to force youinto a circle to your right. At this time, you must circle him to the left. Remember,everything you do is opposite of the direction your dog chooses.

In order to turn left when he's trying to go to the right in front of you, you'll have to getyour left foot over in front of him, as you make another sound distraction and tell him goodboy.

You'll probably need to correct him in this manner two or three times alternating thedirection of the origin of the sound distractions always followed by praise as you shortenyour lead just enough to apply a very slight amount of tension on the lead, using your righthand out to your right side, and release which will cause him to drop back to heel. Try tomove him into a complete left circle, and come to a sit when you have come full circle.

is circle will start off being rather large, perhaps six, eight, ten feet or more in diameter. Itis important to finish at exactly three hundred and sixty degrees.

Come to a sit at this point, follow through with your stay command, praise, adjust him tosit straight, and proceed into a three hundred and sixty-degree right circle.

*Next, we're going to try again to move forward on the heel command, and proceed onlyfour steps, and make a ninety degree left turn, taking only two steps, and making a ninetydegree right turn, and continue for only four steps.

You may need to make a slight correction with each turn. is correction must beperformed without pulling back on the lead with your left hand.

e right hand is the only hand on the lead, proceed slowly and deliberately speaking witheach step 1) heel good boy, step 2) nice dog! step 3) that's a good fella, (next tuning left)step 4) heel good boy as you make a ninety degree left turn and continue only one morestep while praising and then turn right with another request to heel followed by good boy,and continue as before for three steps, and on the fourth step turn into a full left hand circleand come to a halt where you've taken a fix on a landmark as you start/finish point, and askfor a sit.

We'll follow through with the sit straight command, and the relaxation, and then move intoa three hundred sixty degree right circle. If everything is going quite well, you should justabout get dizzy, with all of this turning and pivoting.

At this point, do not try to go for any distance in the heel position. You'll have many yearsof walking with your dog at the heel position. is heeling exercise will give you and yourdog all of the basic practice that you need to accomplish anything you desire.

Down From the Side

At any time you have your dog sitting correctly in the heel position, you may ask him to liedown. Your left hand will come up from your side, palm open, fingers together, andpointing directly towards the left.

Bring your hand from high above your dogs head, and slightly forward, so as to not comeinto his line of vision abruptly or close to his eyes, at the moment you give the voicecommand to down. Keep the signal open, and wait. Give him plenty of time to think aboutthis command. After several seconds, and when it seems that he is no longer thinking aboutthis command, repeat the signal and voice command with the appropriate sound cue andfollow through with praise.

Continue praising once again, until you are sure he is no longer thinking about your request.

Repeat the third request and praise without the sound cue. Keep this hand signal open asyou bring your right arm forward, placing the length of the lead under your left palm, andplace your left thumb over the lead.

You'll have no tension on the collar; the lead will be under your palm, coming betweenyour index finger and thumb. Do not apply pressure. is will protect your face as youreach for his left leg with your left hand with the length of the lead in it. e right hand willhave the lead at the half-length as it was during the heel. Now place the right hand on thedogs' right leg and gently lift to place his paws forward. Do not try to force him to lie down.

If you place his feet just a few inches forward, follow through with the stay signal, stand upstraight, and praise him. Wait for him to finish laying down on his own, even if it's ten ortwenty minutes later.

Do not praise with your hand when he is in the down position. And as always, you may askhim to down straight. You might touch his shoulders with your middle finger and thumbgently between his shoulder blades, or the flat of your palm on the large muscle of hisshoulder or rear legs to ask him to down straight. At this time you may pat him.

Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command

You may begin to leave your dog on a stay command from either a sitting, standing, or lyingdown position. Sitting would be easiest. e stay command is much easier than it sounds.Proper timing will make this command simple. e secret is to use all of the cues we haveavailable at the same time.

We will teach your dog to heel automatically when you step forward with your left foot,and to stay automatically when you step forward with your right foot.

Your right foot will be an additional signal to teach your dog to stay. It must coincide withthe voice command, and at the same time, you will drop the length of your lead directly infront of your dog's face as you move directly toward the end of your lead. If done correctly,we have four signals working in our favour. Dropping the length of your lead (but not thehandle) will have a visual impact on keeping him in the stay command. Give your stayhand signal, voice command, and movement of your right foot all together, as you bringyour right arm forward and release the length of the lead from your palm.

As you step forward with your left foot, place the handle of your lead into your left hand.

If he should break the stay command before you have stepped forward with your left foot,use your sound and praise and take the middle of you lead with your left hand to collect thelead back into the palm of your right hand, and step back into the heel position, and ifnecessary, repeat your sit command. If this sounds contrary to the earlier discussion aboutcorrecting the last command that your dog broke, I agree. However, to your dog, stay is anon-action!

at means that he did not break the stay command, but rather, he broke the sit command.e position he was in was the stay command; the concept of stay does not mean much toyour dog.

If you leave his side correctly, and he breaks the command from the side, he must becorrected from the side. Most of the time, you'll just step back as you make a sound cue andif necessary sit, stay, good, sit straight, and repeat the stay signal and voice command as youstep forward again. Once you have taken two steps forward, even though he is behind you,if he breaks the stay command now, he has broken it from the front.

at means you'll need to place the handle of the lead into your left hand, turn to face him,collecting the length of your lead with your right hand, and placing it into the palm of yourleft, as the signal to sit comes with your right hand.

Try to get him sitting with as little physical contact as possible, drop the length of your lead,step all of the way back to the end of your lead, repeat your stay signal from the front, atthe same time as you step forward on your right foot and continue directly towards him,collecting the length of your lead into your left palm.

Now you may physically praise him, ask him to sit straight, adjust him, repeat the stay signalfrom the front as you drop the length of the lead and step back.

Initially, we will give extra stay signals (with voice commands) at each point of ourmovement. We expect him to break the stay command when we move, so move smoothly,and distinctly, giving the signal with each new movement.

When correcting a broken stay command use a sound and praise only, and return the dog tothe position without comment or physical contact, if possible.

Return to the point where he was when he broke the command, praise from that distance,repeat the stay command again as you quickly move in toward him, ask him to sit straightagain, praise, pat, repeat the stay command and go back. Each point of movement requires

handling of the lead properly to correct any mistakes quickly and without fussing. (By pointof movement, I mean when you leave the side, when you reach the end of the lead and turnto face him, and when you begin to return to him).

Returning to the Heel Position

Now you are ready to return to the heel position by going behind your dog. As you movetoward your dog, repeat your stay signal from the front, place the handle of your lead intoyour right hand, and side your left hand down the length of the lead, to keep it adjusted asyou go to your right, along the left side of your dog.

As you return to your dog, if he breaks the stay command before you get directly behindhim, the lead must go back into your left hand as you step backwards to correct him fromthe front.

As you return to your dog, if he breaks the stay command when you are directly behindhim, the lead will return to your right hand, and you will correct him from the side.

*Once he's used to that, get him used to paying attention to your feet as you pass by, lullinghim into a false sense that he's going to remain there, as you plant your left foot at the heelposition and pass by stepping off on your right foot with your stay signal and command.

After several repetitions, plant your right foot at his shoulder and pass by on your left foot,asking for a heel and taking just one step, ask for a sit.

Long stay commands are simply a matter of understanding how long your dog will remain inthe desired position before moving. If your dog is willing to remain in position for any givenperiod of time, it is likely that he will be consistent, and remain in that position forwhatever amount of time as long as he feels comfortable.

Carefully time his limits, and just before that time span has elapsed, make a move using theappropriate signals. is should have the effect of "re- starting" his clock. So, if you expecthe'll remain sitting for ten seconds, make your move at about eight seconds into thecommand, and return to your original point and wait. Anticipate when he will break thecommand, and you'll have no difficulty extending the amount of time that he is able to stayon command.

e American Kennel Club (A.K.C.) requires that a stay command last for only threeminutes of sitting, and six minutes in the down position. at is probably due to timeconstraints in the show ring. For our purposes, you determine the quantity of time that youwould prefer your dog to remain in a stay command.

Remember, each time you must correct your dog for breaking a stay command is anopportunity to extend his ability to wait. Be consistent, patient, and persistent. Don't askhim to do something, and forget about following through to properly enforce the desiredcommand.

Down From the Front

When both you and your dog are comfortable with working on stay commands, you may goon to down from the front.

Start at the six-foot distance, and use a full sweep of the forearm, keeping the signal open,fingers together, palm down, fingers pointing toward your dog.

Give your signal and wait as before, and if necessary repeat your second request with soundon the cue word. On your third request, as your signal is coming down, collect your leadwith your right hand at the half-length, placing it into your left palm.

Keeping your right hand on the length of the lead, control the lead with your right thumb,as you move in to grasp the left front leg with your right hand, being careful not to releasethe length of the lead.

Your left hand will do likewise, keeping the lead folded as you place your left hand on hisright front leg, making sure that the collar has no tension on it, but that the lead has noslack. is will protect your face while working on placing your dog down. Gently pick upon his front feet, and move them forward. Even if they come forward only a couple ofinches, follow through with your stay command, drop the length of your lead as you step allthe way back.

In the unlikely event that your dog remains in the down position, you must return to theheel position quickly, thus avoiding the likelihood that he will now break the down -staycommand.

is would require that you again place him into the down position from the front. Onceyou've returned to the heel position, if he should break the down stay command, you maycorrect him from the side. 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS

Try leaving your dog from the heel position on a sit or down-stay command, stepping offwith your right foot as you issue the stay signal with voice command, dropping the length ofyour lead directly in front of his nose as your left foot is proceeding into its first movementof your second step.

As you plant your left foot on the ground, the handle of the lead must go over the thumb ofyour left hand, and your right foot should be moving forward into your third step, andcontinue to the six foot length of your lead.

Turning to face him with a flash of your right palm and a repeat voice command to stay, tellhim he's a good dog, repeat your stay signal and voice command as you once again stepforward on your right foot.

Depending on whether you want to move directly into him to adjust his position, or to patand reassure him, or continue to go around him to return to the heel position, requiresdifferent handling techniques with the lead. ese differences are important so that anyerrors may be corrected efficiently, and also so that we will not give any unintentional cuesthat might cause him to break his command. We want to throw the dog off guard to keephim distracted while we're moving.

If your intent is to keep him sitting or down while in front of you at a distance, you'll need

to control the lead with your left hand. If he should break the stay command, just sound andpraise and if necessary repeat the signal and the command that he broke (in this case eithersit or down), and without speaking, collect the lead with your right hand, keeping the signalopen, and placing the lead half way down into your left hand. If your intent is to return to

the heel position, you'll need to hold the handle of your lead with the right hand, slidingyour left hand down the length of your lead as you approach him.

So, when you're at the six-foot distance in front of him, as you're about to move towardhim, repeat your stay signal as you step forward with your right foot.

Move directly forward, collecting your lead into your left hand, step right up to your dog,pat, praise, adjust, repeat the stay signal, and step directly back as you drop the length of thelead, and return to the six foot distance in front of your dog. Repeat your stay signal onceagain as you step forward on your right foot, place the handle of your lead into your righthand, slide your left hand down the lead as you extend your arms enough to keep the extraslack out of the way, and proceed to your right around your dog.

As you step past his head, this is the moment when he will be likely to break position. If hedoes, make a sound distraction and praise, while placing the lead into your left hand, repeatyour signal with your right hand and voice command with praise, correct his position, dropthe length as you step all of the way back, praise from this distance, repeat your staycommands, and try again to return around him. As you do so, if he breaks position as youapproach directly behind him, correct him as you would from the side. Next time, planyour move so that you plant your left foot at the heel position, as you move withouthesitation into the stay command, passing by him with your right foot, moving directly tothe end of your lead.

Repeat this several times, just moving forward and returning around from behind him andleaving him seated as you pass by.

After several tries, plan your move so that when you are directly behind him you will plantyour right foot at the heel position, and pass his shoulder as you step out of the stationaryheel position and into the forward heel with your left foot, hand signal, and voice commandto heel. Take three steps, speaking with each step and come to a halt, asking for a sit ordown.

Stand

e signal for stand may be given from the side or the front (front is easier) with the palmopen, facing down, just a sweep in front of your chest.

You may move your right foot at the same time, forward from the side, and backward fromthe front. As with the other commands, repeat after a few moments, or if he seems to nolonger be acknowledging recognition of the command. On your third request, repeat yourcommand with sound and praise, and gently coax him into position. From the front, as soonas he begins to move, follow through with sound and praise and the stay signal, and godirectly toward him, asking him to stand straight. Adjust his front, come around behind him

into the heel position, repeat the stay signals, run your hand along the sides of his body,adjust his feet so they are lined up properly, and move forward to the end of your lead.

To exit a stand-stay command, return to the heel position and take one step forward on theheel, and ask for a sit or down. Try to avoid asking him to come to you from a standingposition. Down In Motion (On Heel Or Recall)

Now that we have the heeling pattern exercise we can use it to teach other more advancedwork. e down while in motion is particularly easy to teach if we give the down commandon our third step, when the dog is going to expect to turn left. He's ready to turn with youand that's a perfect opportunity to ask him to do something different, like drop as we givethe down signal on our left foot and step past him on our next step with our right foot witha stay command as we continue to the end of the lead.

Same idea with the down on recall. e dog is familiar with coming nine feet. e six footlength of your lead and three foot length of your arm. at means the dog is used tocoming nine feet and sitting. So, when we ask for a down on recall, we just ask for a comecommand, step back six feet and ask for a down as we step one step forward, followthrough, and step back to the full length of the lead to praise. en you can ask again for acome to finish. Now that we have these distances the dog is able to work with, we can useit for all kinds of commands.

Conclusion

As you interrupt barking patterns, notice the time it takes between bursts of barking. Ifthere's a three second pause, interrupt and praise the bark, and praise again after two and ahalf seconds. at'll reset his timer to allow five seconds of silence between barking spells.When the dog first begins to break his barking, you'll hear an "extinguishment" barkingpattern. e regular barking will begin to break up, and there will be "spaces" in betweenthe barks. ose "spaces" require instant praise. ANY WHINING IS GOOD if you'rebreaking barking. It's NOT barking, so PRAISE THE WHINING. When the barking isfully extinguished, THEN work on the whining just as you did the barking. e same tact isused with any repetitive behaviour.

e praise must be timed just right, so that we're praising the first instant of silence, thenbreak our attention to allow the dog to think of resuming, and praise just before theanticipated time that he'll take before resuming the bark. Usually it starts out at two orthree seconds between bursts.

Strategically interrupting and praising will quickly extinguish the habitual aspects of thebehaviour. If you have difficulty with anything here, call or write me for assistance.SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE Using this technique is the easiestand fastest way to break any behaviour. ere are a number of things that have to beconsidered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits' End DogTraining Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basichandling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work toa high degree of proficiency. e problem is that not many people understand how to usethe sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use thecome command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are toldthese methods have been tried and didn't work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and

for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work,the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problemcan begin. I've heard a couple of the "experts" saying they've tried it, and it didn't work forthem or it made their dog nervous. ose are usually the experts who choke and shockdogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking... Manyof them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate orincorrect methods. ere are some people who do not follow directions and get lousyresults, and there are people who do not allow the technique adequate repetition to besuccessful. ere is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, they area scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time,but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, ifit were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from thesame point of origin. at's why several penny cans are required, or a friend or familymember can be enlisted to clap their hands or snap their fingers, to create another source ofsound distraction. You cannot use the same penny can for more than two occasions insuccession. Once it's been tossed, it must remain where it falls, till the exercise if finished.e sound must always be instantly followed by PROLONGED (5-15 seconds), nonphysical praise. e sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice insuccession. e sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoidedand PRAISED if it occurs. at will let the dogs know it was not intended for them. Whenmore than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogspresent must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they werenot being addressed. e praise must continue constantly for several seconds following anysound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. e behaviour MUST be allowedor CAUSED to be repeated and interrupted AGAIN using sound and praise until thebehaviour is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming thebehaviour, you must praise him. at's right. When the dog thinks about resuming the

behaviour, praise him at that exact moment, and the previous DISTRACTIONS will be restimulatedin the dogs mind, and the behaviour will QUICKLY be extinguished.

at's why trying to prevent the dog from doing a behaviour is COUNTERPRODUCTIVE.You end up distracting the dog's thoughts from the behaviour we are teaching or breaking.at seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. ey want to makeit happen, and they interfere with the dog's thought process. e dog will learn through theprocess of elimination of alternative actions or behaviours.

It ONLY takes a few minutes, and the behaviour is eliminated, rather than repressed andseething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, orpunishment "techniques." e trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on tellingthe dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established.

Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. Physical oppositionis triggered through force or pressure, emotional opposition is triggered through negativeemotions. What further complicates the process for the trainer is that they break theconditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexivereaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog andphysically correcting the dog for a further instance of misbehaviour, rather than taking themoment to THINK about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary, search fora can or figure out some way to create an appropriate, brief, distraction, and follow through

with the appropriate sound distraction and praise. (If you're still following, you nowunderstand why "traditional?" trainers confound their dogs, by jerking the lead and shoutingNO. Someone ought to mention that, don't you agree?) e process must be carried outusing an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlistedand instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption, acan with some pennies may be used, a coincidental, spontaneous occurring sound mightserve us well. Just imagine HOWE your dog is going to react if you knew there's going tobe a peal of thunder, and you timed it so as to correspond to a failed come command???We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative misbehaviours he can pull out of his bagof tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in abehaviour by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming partof the behaviour, either as a player or competitor in the dog's mischief. Using sound as adistraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise.Interrupting a behaviour with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing "no,"or telling the dog to "stop it." at's going to cause animosity, and teach the dog to controlyou. e behaviour should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION.We want the behaviour to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity toproperly address the behaviour with another sound distraction and praise. at way, wecan completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are preparedto address the issue before it becomes out of control. e sound must never occur twice ina row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of thedog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you'd praise him for five to fifteen secondsimmediately upon snapping your fingers. e behaviour will hopefully resume, and thenext attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must comefrom behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda canwith a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged,non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behaviour, or resumes it.e third interruption of the behaviour usually gets the message across, and the dog willthink about the behaviour for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourthand last time... at split second of thinking about engaging in the behaviour requirespraise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing thetemptation. at moment of thinking about resuming the behaviour and the praise it earnshim, will validate the prior interruptions of that behaviour. e dog then needs to test itout, to be sure that the same behaviour will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. ey

will usually make a fourth attempt at the behaviour, and if you follow throughappropriately, he will learn not to do that behaviour anymore. But only on the one shoelace!He must take that behaviour to other instances to fully extinguish his desire for thebehaviour. e behaviour will not be completely broken until he has taken the process ofelimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behaviour. And,even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places togeneralize it. at means that the worst behaviour may need up to sixty-four properlytimed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. Breaking abehaviour in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer orcompetitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behaviour because he simplydoesn't get any satisfaction from it. e other secret is giving the dog a payoff for everytime they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praisehim verbally, to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his idle mind from doingthe devil's work.