Wet Hairstyling

Pin Curls

HS-CS-II-4

Implements for Wet Styling

Combs

Clippies

Butterfly or long bill clips

Styling lotion or gel

The Part

Clean hair parting is an essential factor in a finished style.

Shaping

A shaping or molding, as it is sometimes called, is the formation using a comb and your fingers to direct the hair into a “c” shape to serve as the foundation for a particular style

A shaping has an open side and a closed side

Open side is the opening or front of the “c”

Closed side is the back side of the “c”

Directions of Shaping

Clockwise shaping: Shaping directed in the direction of the clock handsCounter clockwise shaping: Shaping directed in the opposite direction of the clock hands

Curl Directions

The direction in which a curl and stem is in placed will determine the finished style.When the stem is directed forward the hair will style toward the face.When the stem is directed backward the hair will style out away from the face.When the stem is directed upward the hair will style in an upward flip.When the stem is directed downward the hair will flip under.

*********carefully select the stem direction when choosing the desired comb-out***********

Three Parts of a Pin Curl

Base: The part of the pin curl that is firmly attached to the scalpStem: The part of the pin curl that is located between the base and the first arc of the circle; allows for direction and mobility of the curlCircle: The part of the pin curl that forms the complete circle or curl; determines the size of the wave or curl

base

stem

circle

Parts of a pin curl

Stems of a Pin Curl :Determines Mobility

No stem: placed directly on the base, has little or no mobility and produces a tight , firm curlHalf stem: placed ½ on base and half off base, has more mobility than the no stem and gives good direction to the hairFull stem: placed completely off the base , gives maximum movement to the hair (If placed too far off the base, hair at the scalp could be straight)

no Half full

Centers of the Pin Curls

Closed center: will produce a fluffy curl due to the curl becoming smaller and tighter at the ends

Open center: will produce a smooth even curl due to the curl being the same size from base through out circle

Bases for Pin Curls

Before beginning pin curls, divide the hair into sections, then subdivide into smaller parts to create the base for the type of pin curl selected.

Four bases:1. Square: commonly used for any style; may be brick-laid to

prevent splits2. Arc: curved base ,carved out of shaping; works well in the back

area of the head for a French twist3. Triangle: recommended for the front hairline; allows for portions

of each triangle to overlap the next triangle for smoothness in a wave without parts

4. Rectangle: recommended at the side hair line for a smooth effect

Special note: The shape of the base does not effect the finished curl but the smoothness and the similarity of each curl in size and shape will. Overlapping of pin curls is recommended.

Types of Pin Curls

Flat/ carved curls : lays flat against the head and is clipped parallel to the stem and over the first part of the circle and smoothly across the curl without disturbing the roundness of the circle.Semi standing / carved curls: semi stands on the head and is clipped parallel to the stem and over the first part of the circle….Do not clip across the circle.Standing /cascade curls: stands straight up on the base, the size of the curl determines the height of the style out. Curl is clipped securely at the base.Barrel curls: Takes the place of a roller, but lacks the tension of a roller. Formed on rectangular bases and replaces 2-4 pin curls and are formed in a standing position. Clip securely at the base.

Safety

Properly drape with a towel and a plastic cape.

Never use combs with broken or missing teeth.

Place cotton between metal clips and skin when drying.

Keep gel or lotion out of client’s eyes.

Protect client’s skin and clothing.

Are you Ready for Pin Curling?

Pin curling will always be popular in hairstyling. From models on the red carpet to Hollywood films, the art of pin curling will be a valuable part of your training.

An important technique to learn is ribboning, which is forcing the hair between the thumb and back of the comb to create smoothness and tension prior to making the circle.Let’s review and then begin practicing!!!!

Review Pin Curls

Ribboning

Implements

partings

Shapings

Open/close sides

2 types centers

Curl directions

Three parts

Mobility

Bases

Circles/curls

Overlapping

Brick lay

Types of pin curls

Clipping pin curls

Safety tips

Time for practice