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NOTICE

I found the engine on sale at Harbor Freight and Tool For $ 59,99 + free shipping. This will saveyou some extra money !The part number is 51584 - OCXA, the phone number is 800-423-2567,or order online at Harbor Freight tools.com. There are a few other essential parts that come withthis as outlined in the olans.

Kindest Regards,

AstroArt1986 - Roy

PARTS LIST FOR LIGHTWEIGHT OUTBOARD BOAT MOTOR

1. Purchase gear set from Motion lndusties Corp, There are 500+ Nationwide.Order part numbersGSS486Y-G and GSS486Y-P. This is a 4:1 ratio. lt will take a day or two, but they will deliver toyour door. Also pick up a non - floating sealed bearing 114" lD X 1" OD X 5116" width at your localAuto supply retailer. I reccomend NAPA if you havs access to them, they have allmost anything.

2. Purchase a Ryobi 725R 31cc grass trimmer with curved shaft. Best prices are Harbor Freight, or Northern Tool,but can be aquired at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, or other similar type outlet. The most important issue hereis that it must be clutch driven.

3. Purchase a non working transom rnount Motor Guide trolling rnotor from a locaf boating store, or boat repair shop.I purchase them here normally between $10.00- $ 20.00. lt must be totally complete, top to bottom including prop.

They will negotiate with you on this item, so take cash !

4. Visityour local Hardware store to purchase these items : One 4'long 1/4" diameter steel rod, One 1/8" by 1" steelrolf pin, One 1/16" by l" steel roll pin, Two 1" l.D. "U" clamps size 114" with locknuts, Ten 1t8" by 1/4" steel hexhead sheetmetal screws.

5. Visit your local auto parts retailer to purchase one small tube of permatex black silicone sealant, and one tube ofmarine grease, the size that fits a hand held grease gun. Also pick up a small tube of red loctite to secure threadeditems.

Thats lt I Time to gather it all and lets get Started !

( Unless you want to take a break-)

PAGE ONE

LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED

1. Grinder, or Flat 12" file, coarse/fine.

2. Electric Drillwith 3,|8" chuck

3. Drill Bit set

4. Hacksaw with extra blade

5. 1/8" Punch

6. Center Punch

7. Hammer, smail battpeen works great

8. Tape Measure or a Yard Stick willdo

9. Set of Star Screwdriver Bits with Driver

10. Set of regular Pliers

11. Medium Common Screwdriver

12. Medium to Fine sandpaper

13. Bench Vise would be handy, if not available use medium size Vise Grip Pliers.

14. A clear flat surface to work on preferably with a wooden top ( pver drills ) with electrical access

15. Fine tip black permanent marker

16. Wire Cutters

THATS IT FOR TOOLS I

READY TO HAVE SOME REAL FUN NOW ?

PAGE TWO

STEP 1. Remove engie and throttle assembly from weedtrimmer shaft. Pay careful attention to all pointsthat secure the engine and throttle to the shaft. The engine and throttle assembly will both slideoff together, you do not want to separate the two. *Note" ( save all screws you remove )

Remove center driveshaft from trimmer tube. You will notice this driveshaft rides in a " centerinq "guide made of plastic, using vise grips, pull this guide from the tube and save it.

On the curved section of the trimmer shaft, make a hacksaw cut approximately 3" from the bottomtrimmer head assembly. Measuring 20" out and around the curve in the tube make a mark. Makea hacksaw cut at this point. File both ends square and smoothly removing all burrs. lt shold looklike a elbow when done. Set this oiece aside, it is your tiller handle.

. All parts to be saved : Engine and throttle assembly, Plastic drive shaft guide, Tiller handle, andall of those tiny black star headed screws you removed.

Discard the rest, save it do what ever you want with it, but its in your way right now.

STEP 2. Remove the top assembfy from the troffing motor shaft and cut the wrres, Discard. Placing the lowerunit between your feet, insert a screwdriver throgh the holes at the top of the shaft. Apply pressureto the screwdriver counterclocl<wise to loosen and remove the main shaft. They are normally verytight, so use caution during this procedure.

Remove the prop nut, the prop, and the shear pin. This will give you access to two long 5/16" headbolts, remove and save them. The lower case should come apart in three sections now. Cut allloose wire out of your way. ln the aft section, you will see the brush assembly plate. These screws arealso 5/16", remove them. You willthen notice two studs sticking up, threaded on the inside. Takethe ball end of your ball peen hammer and tap on those studs until they break off below the centerbushing. Remove and discard the pieces. Set the aft section aside, it is ready.

Remove the magnets from the center section using a flat tip screwdriver and a hammer working thescrewdriver under the magnet to break them free from the glue. * Please use safety glasses duringany part of this operation that could cause flying debris " Set this Piece aside, it is ready.

Remove the propshaft, begin cutting and removing all colper wire from the stators, with that done,hold the propshaft vertically and begin tapping on the stators to remove them from the shaft. When donayou should be holding a clean propshaft, discard stators and all copper wire. Remove any otherwiring clutter from the work area as well.

. All parts to be saved : Main trolling motor shaft, lower housing assembly, propshaft, 5/16" bolts withspecialwashers, prop, shear pin, and prop nut, the transom mount and the depth collar

PAGE THREE

housing.

RE-ASSEMBLY

STEP 3. Cut main trolling motor shaft down to 30" using the hacksaw. File off square and smooth. Cut offa 27" length of the trimmer driveshaft guide with the hacksaw, then insert the guide tube into thetrolling motor shaft leaving equal recession at both ends.

Using a flat surface and safety glasses you will now drill the gears out because unfortunafefy theydont come in the size we need ( | D.). Using the vise grips on the shank of the pinion gear (small Gear),Drillthe center hole to 1/4". Repeat the process on the main gear but drill the center hole to 3/8".This is the size of the prop shaft.

On a flat surface, roll the 4' by 114" steel rod on a flat surface to make sure it is straght and true.lf you encounter any abnormality, gently bend and work the rod until it is true. Slide the 1/4" bearing about

1 and 3/4" above the end of the 1/4" shaft. Sometimes yuo may have to tap it. Slide the pinion gearonto the shaft with gear at bottom, and flush with the bottom of the shaft. Lock the vise grips downon the 114" shaft to keep the pinion gear flush with the shaft. Find the center on the shank of thepinion gear, center punch a drill pilot there. Drill the hole slightly smaller than 1/16" making sureyou go through the center of the 1/4" shaft and all the way through. Align the holes and tap the 1/16"drift pin in until it is started, the add a drop of loctite to the pin and finish driving it through until it is flushwith the other side. Cut off the remainder and flle smooth-

STEP 4. Slide the 114" rod through the threaded end of the trolling motor shaft until the bearing makes contact withthe rnain shaft, set it to the side. Install the shear pin, prop, and prop nut onto thd prop shaft. Insert theshaft through the aft lower housing piece until you have minimal clearance between the prop and the

Slide the main gear onto the shaft with the gear teeth facing you. Screw the main trolling motor tube intothe housing hand tight. Check for gear clearance and proper mesh, and no binding. they must rotatefirmly but smoothly as well. lf it is too tight, remove the main gear and either file or grind off some of theshank until you achieve smooth gear flow. lf you accidentally remove too much and your gear mesh isloose, remove the main gear and add a 3/8" flat washer. This should tighten the gear mesh. Still loose ?No problem, add another washer. *Also make sure the gear teeth are evenly matched. Too far up ? Tapthe 1/4" shaft down and vice versa. They must be even. -

All meshed up smoothly ? Good. Now take the marker and mark the precise point of the rnain gear onthe shaft, make a close tolerance mark all the way around the 3/8" shaft. Remove the trolling motor mainshaft by unscrewing it counterclockwise, slide out the propellor shaft, remove the prop nut,the prop, andthe shear pin. Also save any 3/8" flat washers you may have used, you'll need them during reassembly,Slide the main gear back onto the shaft and line it up precisely where you made the mark. Lock the visegrips around the 3/8" shaft at that point so it doesnt move. Find the center of the shank of the main gearand center punch it right in the middle. Drill a hole slightly smaller than 1/8" completely through the gearand the prop shaft. Tap the 1/8" drift pin in to get it started, then add a drop of loctite to the pin. Finish

driving the pin through until flush with the other side of the gear shank. Hacksaw off any excess and filesmooth. Wipe ofi any excess loctite or metal shavings.

PAGE FOUR

ASSEMBLY OF THE LOWER UNIT

STEP 5. Ensure all lower unit housing parts are clean and free of any foreign material. Pre-Lube these areas :

Using the Marine lube, The nose cone.bushing, the aft section bushing, the main gear teeth liberally,and the pinion gear. Also any 3/8" washers you may have used for shimming Slid-e prop shaft andmain gear down through the aft section all the way. ( dont forget the 3/S" washers if you used them )Screw trolling motor main shaft into housing. Double checkthe gear meshing, if anythings wrong, nows the time to fix it. Assuming everything has gone as plannedslide the other pieces of the housing together, align them to install the two long 5/16" head bolts withspecial washers, and tighten them firmly. Use the black silicone now to seal over the heads of the bolts.lnstall shear pin, prop, and prop nut ( tighten securely ).

STEP 6. On the top of the trolling motor main shaft, measure 3/16" up and mark the drive shaft here. cut thedrive shaft off at the mark, then once again unscrew the main shaft from the lower unit. From the topof the drive shaft measure down 1 and 114". This will be a reference mark. Using a file or grinder youwill need to square this end to 3/16" by 3/16" by 1 and 1/4" long. ( To your refereice mark-). This lndwill fit into the clutch of the engine. Slide trotling motor main shaft back down over drive shaft, applyloctite to the threads of the tube, screw main shaft all the way in as tight as possible. The lower unitis complete.

STEP 7. Tape a piece of string from the center of the nose cone up to the center top of the main shaft. Make acenterline mark at top of main shaft. Using center [ine, measure 1116" by making two marks ( 1132" oneach side of the line ), then measure 1" down from top of tube and mark it. Make two straight cutsdcnr'rn to the 1" mark. Push the piece out with a flat tip screwdriver, then gently work it bacli and forthwith the pliers until it breaks off. File this area smooth. This notch is for a alignment bar on the engine.Slide the transom mount onto the shaft about 8" down and secure with friction screw on back of mount.Slide depth collar down to transom mount and tighten.

STEP 8. Pick up engine with starter rope facing you, slide it onto the main shaft facing the nose cone. you mayhave to work the prop back and forth to seat the driveshaft into the clutch, you will know when you hearthe clutch spin in the engine while tuming the prop. Tightdn the clamp on the engine. Looking fbrwardat the engine on the right side there was a screw you had to remove to remove it from the trimmer.Find the hole and center punch it. Dritl the hole to 3/32". lnstatl one of those btack star head screwsthat you saved. The engine is mounted.

PAGE FIVE

ASSEMBLING THE TILLER HANDLE

STEP 9. Install the tiller handle on the left side of the engine as looking from the front using the "U" boltclamps and straps on the main shaft getting it as close to the engine as possible. lnstall thestraps horizontally on the right side of the main shaft and secure the locknts lightly for now. Youwill notice the bow in the tiller handle. Turn the handle with the bow facing up, and pointed straightforward. Apply a slight amount of upward force and secure the locknuts firmly on the "U" boft straps.Find the center of each strap and make a center punch. Drill a 3132" hole through the straps andthe main shaft. lnstall two of those little black star headed screws here, tighten securely. Thethrottle assembly divides in half by removing the screws. Place the left side on the tiller handle,and match the right side to it. * Careful not to disturb the location of the throttle cable or wiring.lnstall and tighten the screws with the throttle trigger facing down. On the side of the throttteassembly, you will find a hole where you previously removed one of those little black screws.Center punch the hole and drillto 3/32". Install one of those screws firmly. " You must use cautionhere. There must not be any tension pulling on the throttle cable as this will not allow the engine toidle. Take the air filter cover off the back of the engine and visually check the system by sqeezingthe trigger a couple of times and making sure the carburetor is contacting the idle stop. lf not,remove the screws just enough to slide the throttle assembly back towards the engine to gain theslack in the cable. Re-drill the hole, install the screw securely, and tighten all of the remainingscrews. The tiller handle is finished.

STEP 10. Secure engine to a boat transom or saw horse, ( just watch for prop clearance ). Adjust depth withthe depth collar securely.Release the tilting mechanism on the transom mount, raise the motor tothe highest notch and lock there. Rotate the engine so the fue cap is facing directly up and semilevel. Fill tank with 50:1 mixture using Ryobi 2 cycle oil. You got a bottle with the new trimmer.Secure the fuel cap firmly, *no crossthreading here*. Tilt the motor down to its normal operatingposition. Prime the fuel bulb I - 10 times, flip the choke on, hold the tiller handle and pull the rope.It will probably fire - off and sputter on choke. Then depress the throttle lever about halfway, pull therope. lt should be running now so let it warm up and run it hard for awhile, release the throttle tolet the engine idle, the prop should quit tuming at idle. Cpntinue running until the tank is dry. lts aircooled, so run it alt you [ike. You've just hopefutly compteted a successful test run. lf youencountered no problems, your ready to flsh. Just pack along a gallon jug full of pre - mix fuel andyour ready. To refuel the engine out in the water, just repeat the filling instructions above. For allother engine maintenance refer to the manual that came with the trimmer. Refer to enclosed drawingsfor proper placement of everything below the engine. Hope you had some fun, now how about thatfishing ? See you on the water I

" REMEMBER TO ALLWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES *

PAGE SIX

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