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VIENNA ITINERARY

Building new architectural treasure chests to house the treasures of the past. From top, left to right, the Leopold Museum (www.leopoldmuseum.org), with works by Schiele and Klimt on the walls. It is part of the MQ, MuseumsQuartier, in the renovated former Imperial stables (www.mqw.at). The Belvedere park. The pointed tip of Zaha Hadid’s architecture on the new university campus. Supersense, an analog shop-bar, where you can record a vinyl disk (see Elle Decor, no. 2/2015, the.supersense.com). The Werkbundsiedlung, an area of 1930s public housing architecture (www.werkbundsiedlung-wien.at). Interior of the Kunsthalle contemporary art centre (www.kunsthallewien.at).

Returning to the past and reinventing it: that is the Vienna of today, including the museums, with their trendy displays and cafeterias. From top, left to right, a room in the MAK, Museum of Applied Arts (www.mak.at). The Daniel designer hotel, in the former La Roche offices of the 1960s, with Erwin Wurm’s boat-artwork on the roof (www.hoteldaniel.com). The Café Sperl: new and old Viennese cafés have WiFi, but they haven’t given up the newspapers on wooden rods (www.cafesperl.at). The Song concept store (www.song.at). The Palmenhaus, a Jugendstil greenhouse that now houses a brasserie (www.palmenhaus.at). The Meliá hotel restaurant (www.melia.com) on the 57th floor of the DC Tower, a new designer tower block.

90ELLE DECOR ELLE DECOR91

An imperial boutique, but reloaded. From top, left to right, Scheer (www.scheer.at), the emperor’s shoe shop, now in its seventh generation, opened its doors to creative youngsters during the Vienna Design Week (www.viennadesignweek.at). The Donau Kanal, where the Danube canal branches off from the Danube river, is one of the city’s new young and trendy areas. Installations by super-sensual artist Pipilotti Rist also feature at the entrance to the Sofitel hotel (www.sofitel-vienna-stephansdom.com), the luxury hotel designed by Jean Nouvel, that overlooks the Donau Kanal. Below, the Leica photo gallery (en.leica-camera.com).

VIENNA ITINERARY

Vienna is no longer, or at least not just, historic cafés and Sachertorte, imperial nostalgia and gold-leaf Klimt decorations. There’s a new Vienna, also aiming sky-high. So it’s no coincidence that the best-loved and most iconic bar is now the rooftop bar, featuring installations by the sensual artist Pipilotti Rist, on the top floor of the Sofitel, the hotel designed by Jean Nouvel. Down below is the Donau Kanal and Leopoldstadt, the new, young quarter of the city on the site of the old Jewish ghetto that is changing at breathtaking speed. But Vienna is also putting its money on Zaha Hadid, and the architecture for its new university campus. Meanwhile, not far from the city centre, there’s the almost pleated skyscraper designed by French architect Dominique Perrault: the DC Tower. And on the 57th floor is a hotel and restaurant, because everyone loves to look down on cities from above. Sachertorte and skyscrapers, ancient/iconic and new, all intertwined in a Vienna that is opening up to the future. The boutiques so beloved of the emperor, like the Scheer shoe shop or the Lobmeyr crystal shop, throw open their doors to young designers from all over the world for the “Passionswege”, the boutique-workshop events organized every autumn for Vienna Design Week. The MAK, Museum of Applied Arts, has recently reorganized its collections of chairs, fabrics and porcelainware, with a new display that would be the envy even of MOMA. And in the bar-cafeteria there’s a maxi-candelabra made up of illuminated bottles of milk, a design by architects Eichinger and Knechtl, in a witty reference to the Hapsburg candelabra (created by the Lobmeyr crystal house). As for museums, just behind the Kunsthistorisches is the successful gamble of the MQ, MuseumsQuartier, the renovated old Imperial stables, now housing two of the liveliest museums in the city, Leopold and Mumok, as well as workshops and restaurants. They have revitalized the whole of this part of the city, making it another quarter to keep your eye on. Another must-see museum is 21erHaus, a modernist building recently reopened as a centre for contemporary art. Its cafeteria offers fusion dishes by one of the many Asian chefs in the city, including the first ever Hello Kitty maki (pink, from the beetroot). The young, Michelin-starred chef Philipp Vogel is plying his trade at the Kempinski Hotel (www.kempinski.com/vienna), while another young and Michelin-starred chef, Konstantin Filippou, devoted his eponymous restaurant to the interaction between Greek and Austrian cuisine (www.konstantinfilippou.com). A few minutes’ walk from 21er Haus is the witty young Daniel designer hotel, offering rooms with hammocks, a boat-sculpture by Erwin Wurm casting off from the roof, and a 1952 chrome Airstream camper van in the garden, for people who have enough of hotel rooms. The Daniel is an example of upcycling, too, because it is housed in the building designed by Austrian architect Lippert, in the early 1960s, once home to the offices of pharmaceuticals giant La Roche. Lippert also designed the Die AU café, in the Augarten park, next to the TBA21 collection of contemporary art founded by socialite Francesca von Habsburg: the café’s interior design is by the Mischer’ Traxler duo. Upcycling also happens in many bars and concept stores, where, alongside the modern antique armchairs you can buy old LPs or books, as in the Café Phil (phil.info), or Das Möbel (www.dasmoebel.at/cafe/dascafe). This Vienna is inventing and reinventing itself all the time. www.austria.info/it

94ELLE DECOR