THE ROLE OF YARN IN TEXTILES - RESEARCHWEBSITEhttps://www.woolmark.com/search/?keyword=trends Accessed: 17/8/18

WOOL

TRADE SHOW

Sustainability is a cost, not free – renewable, organic, natural Sportswear/high performance clothing Unlined woollen suits More colourful, individual styles Double faced coatings Climate control Brushed surfaces No crease travel suit Exploiting the stretch of merino wool Flatter fabrics in coarser wools Heavier weights including 6 ply twist Super matte double faced crepe 160s wool for light flannel Satin finish wool/stretch silk Flat wool weaves with super elastic texture Trend - soft airy weaves with coloured knops, ribs, brushed effects

and natural fibres teamed with shiny synthetics Trend - brown - pale to rich nut colours Blue – subtle/airforce blue Trend - Checks and 3D construction give depth and a sense of

warmth Trend - colourful and country-based wool flannels, 3D effects

achieved with texture, colour and contrasting yarns

Milano Unica for Autumn/Winter 2019/20

Pitti Filati 83rd Edition 2019/20 Sustainability and responsibility Bulky yarns - thicker qualities for more exaggerated proportions

to favour sculpted and rounded finishing Natural colours Shine - beads, sequins or precious stones incorporated in the yarn

or by twisting wool with lustrous yarns such as silk, metallic yarns or Lurex.

Wool is twisted with alpaca or other fancy fibres result in fluffy yarn

Spinning incorporating techno elements, finishes such as Teflon, stretch fibre, or yarns with shine

Wash and go suits Active sports, seamless garments Colours - bright and mixes - pink, green, red, yellow, blue, in

psychedelic collections Optical power of broken lines and unexpected perspective Bright neons and rainbow colours in superfine Merino wool and

extra-fine Merino wool also introduced faded pinks and lilacs Range and number of colours held in stock at the yarn stage is still

growing as the market continues to react to changes Trend - videos of sexual images among an array of fancy stitches

and colours

Pitti Uomo 94 Movement to substitute natural materials and minimise plastics Washable wool suit Biodegradable lining developed for wool suits Degradable polymer layer - combine technology and sustainability

in a single wool fabric Eco fabrics - wool and bio-based nylon Sports capsule designs - combining ultra-performance with design

and sustainability - base-layer from superfine wool and three-layer wool shell for skiwear

Lightweight, stretchy performance designs, using wool for sportswear

Very fine micron wool - seamless styles, 3D printed structures White, huge checks and wide chalk stripes

WEBSITEhttps://www.cottoninc.com/quality-products/textile-sourcing/spinners/Accessed: 17/8/18

COTTON

https://www.buhleryarn.com/blog/performance-meets-comfort-cool-spinning-system/?redirect_bypass=1Accessed: 17/8/18

COOL™ system High-twist spinning system that works with Modal, MicroModal®,

TENCEL®, and Supima® cotton Potential to drastically change the state of athletic and athleisure

wear Fabrics offer cool, breathable comfort, a lower likelihood of

pilling, and a more eco-friendly carbon footprint Reduces the diameter and hairiness of the yarn, resulting in leaner

fibres with improved air penetration, coolness, and dryness more compacted yarn is also less resistant to air flow and boasts

26% less thermal resistance

WEBSITE POLYESTER/NYLONhttps://pharrfibersandyarns.com/yarn-systems/Accessed: 17/8/18

Yarn spun to produce carpet Extrusion

Modern fleet, capable of producing white dyeable and solution dyed BCF yarns

Space Dyefrom micro to long space, singles to two ply and either nylon or polyester

TwistingHigh speed cabling with advanced tension-controlled systems

Air Twisting + Entanglingcomputer-controlled machines configure up to 5 yarns into a single finished yarn bundle offering different colors, lusters and dye effects

Heat Settingproduce both straight and textured (frieze) finished yarns

WEBSITE COTTON AND COTTON BLENDSSUPIMARAYON, MODAL, MICROMODAL, TENCELYARN-DYED RAYON, COTTON AND POLY COTTONPOLYESTER AND NYLONECO-FRIENDLY FIBERS: RECYCLED POLYESTER, RECYCLED AND ORGANIC COTTON AND TENCEL

http://sastextiles.com/services/Accessed: 17/8/18

Knitting CapabilitiesCircular knits from ultra fine to coarse gauge sweater knits.Single jersey, 4.5, 7, 10, 14, 22, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40 gaugeSingle knit mini-jack, electronics 18, 20, 24, 28 gaugeDouble knit mini-jack, electronic 7, 18, 24, 28 gaugeFrench terry, three-end fleece, loop terry 10, 13, 14, 18, 20 gaugeDouble knit rib, interlock, 10, 14, 18, 22, 24, 28, 32, 36 gauge4-color single knit and double knit stripers with jacquard capabilities6-color single knit striper

FinishingBrushing, napping, sueding, Compaction, launderingMoisture management/wicking, antimicrobial, and UV protection

Yarns and Fiberin natural, heathers and dyed colorstwist or intermingle different yarns to create unique blends and effects

WEBSITE NYLON

https://www.invista.com/what-we-do/productsAccessed: 30/8/18

Thermoplastic, nylon 6,6 can be melted and shaped - from heat-resistant auto parts to consumer electronics and kitchen appliances

Nylon 6,6 pellets can melted and extruded as continuous fibers with high strength and flexibility – pantyhose, tough automotive air bags and durable sportswear

https://www.lycra.com/en/

LYCRA® HYBRID - retains its shape – Denim - look of woven denim with the comfortable fit and freedom of a knit

Hosiery with LYCRA® 3D technology contains LYCRA® fiber in every knitted course -Greater comfort and enhanced freedom of movement - more consistent level of compression over a range of body movements/ more uniform appearance/ softer, smoother hand/Increased garment durability

LYCRA® BLACK technology chlorine-resistant/spun-in black pigment/ deeper, darker shades that retain their color intensityLingerie - Virtual elimination of grin-though/Improved colorfastness in dark shades/Excellent uniformitySwimwear - chlorine resistance

CHEYNET, LYCRA® FIBER MILL OF THE MONTHElastic narrows producer - ‘Creator of the Year’ at the Salon Interfilière - combining technology and fashionProduces 60 million metres of narrow tape every year – intimate apparel 60%, ready-to-wear, sport and swimwear, automotive, orthopaedicsCurrent market trends - soft and light, more transparent, rigid narrows, higher waist bands influenced by wide elastic bandsLINGERIE - In the mood 2018 – SKIN - epaulets, belts, and borders - sensual, secret and romantic

In the mood 2018 - SHOCK - woven or knitted elastic ribbons, visually strong modes and attitudes of assertiveness

https://coolmax.com/en/Technologies-and-Innovations/COOLMAX-technologies/CORE

https://thermolite.com/en/Technologies-and-Innovations/THERMOLITE-EcoMade-Technologies/T3-EcoMade

In the mood 2018 - BEACHWEAR - elastic ribbons and Silaqua®: the patented technique by Cheynet, combining silicone and your elastic fabric

COOLMAX® transports moisture away from the body to keep the wearer cool and dry – Activewear, denim, outdoor, socks, workwear, non-apparel704EF Staple yarn, Disperse dyeable, EcoMade fiber spun from recycled plastic bottles

THERMOLITE® T3 EcoMade insulation contains a minimum of 35% recycled materials such as plastic bottles – warmth, lightweight, water resistant - Compressible jackets, Headwear, Leather jackets, Outerwear, Ski-wear, Sleeping bags

WEBSITE Heimtextil 2018 TRADE FAIR

https://heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/frankfurt/en/programme-events/trends.html#trends

https://www.heimtextil-theme-park.com/blog/2017/7/18/itaca-nomadic-house-kit-by-elena-bompani-transplantable-home-systems-prplp-hvsAh-d7abl

The Future Is UrbanThe Re-Made Space

Solid Textile Board by Really for KvadratIndustrial textile upcyclingSolid Textile Board, an engineered high-density material that substitutes for wood and composites in furniture and architecture. A large proportion of the recovered textiles, including cotton, wool and polyester, are sourced from industrial laundries that process hotel sheets and towels as well as hospital and restaurant uniforms.

“Sea Me Chair by Studio Nienke HoogvlietRevisiting currently abundant alternativesNienke Hoogvliet’s research focuses on the potential of sea algae as an alternative to conventional textile crops, such as cotton, that pollute and require extensive irrigation. The Dutch designer has developed a sustainable yarn from sea algae and explored alternative uses, such as extracting a wide spectrum of natural

https://www.heimtextil-theme-park.com/blog/2018/12/04/heimtextil-2018-preview-remade-materials

dyes ranging from browns and greens to greys, pinks and purples, depending on the seaweed species. The seat of the Sea Me Chair is hand woven in seaweed yarn and dyed by the natural seaweed pigments. Aiming to create a circular zero-waste process, her methods make use of every scrap of sea algae, the waste of one round of the process being fed into the next round until none of the raw material remains.”

“Designer, Sophie Rowley explores how waste denim can be used to create hard textile surfaces. As part of her Material Illusions collection, designer Sophie Rowley draped Diesel denim offcuts over a mould and bonded the layers with bio-resin to create a bespoke interior stool. After drying, she carved through the layers to create a flat surface in which the differing sizes and shades of the denim generated an intriguing marble-like pattern that gave the stool its name, the Bahia Denim, after a Brazilian blue marble which it resembles.”

“Jorges Peandés has found an application for waste leather sourced from luxury fashion houses. Peandés binds scraps of leather with natural bone glue to create a robust material that he has used to make furniture. Leather offcuts sourced from Hermès after the French fashion house’s pattern cutters have sliced their shapes, are fed through an office paper shredder. The thin leather strips are pressed into a long iron mould, soaked with bone glue, compressed and left to set. When removed from the mould, the resultant strut, shaved to reveal and emphasise the leather’s material language and visual qualities, has the appearance of marble.”

https://www.heimtextil-theme-park.com/blog/2017/7/18/itaca-nomadic-house-kit-by-elena-bompani-transplantable-home-systems-prplp-hvsAh-d7abl-5mna6-3awx7-7bp2w-c5zbt-4sz25-mzp2g

The Maker Space“Ragamuf by Martta LeskelaSocially conscious resourcingFounded by Martta Leskela, an economist and entrepreneur, Ragamuf is a socially centric design studio in Turkey that employs Syrian refugee women to hand-craft chair rugs. The design, developed by designer Tuula Poyhonen, is hand knitted with rags from textile industry surplus, making each chair rug unique. The women employed by the scheme live close to the Syria-Turkey border and the scheme aims to provide them with an independent income.”

“Combating fast fashion waste through post-purchase manufacture

Founded by Martijn van Strien, a designer working in Rotterdam, Post-Couture Collective sets out to provide an alternative to disposable fashion. Claiming to be the first fashion label to truly embrace maker culture, Post Couture Collective allows customers to download, customise, manufacture and self-assemble clothing designs. Alternatively, the products can be customised, then ordered for delivery as flat-pack DIY kits, which reduce the waste caused by over-production because they are not manufactured until after they are purchased. The laser-cut pieces require no stitching. Instead they are slotted together using interlocking seams. Designs can also be downloaded as CAD files for DIY production in any suitable material.”

https://www.heimtextil-theme-park.com/design-trends/#perfect-imperfection

Design & Colour Trends Relax/Recharge

Blue light can energise and red light can calm – walls, floors, furniture and fittings are saturated with single hues in multiple tones within the red and blue spectrums

Perfect ImperfectionRevival of ancient craft techniques - indigo dyeing - wabi-sabiMaterials and products bear the marks of their making, embracing visible brushstrokes, stitching and joineryTextile surfaces - handmade look and feelHand-woven fabrics, knotting, applique and painterly abstract patterns create irregularity and authenticityRich earth tones, clay browns and nude complimented by shades of indigo

Soft MinimalCity dwellers living more nomadic lifestyles in micro apartmentsComforting fabrics add warmth and personality to decluttered spaces - Wools, felts, linen and bouclé yarns with brushed, tactile surfacesRestrained colour palette of muted pastels and neutral shades, punctuated by matt black

Adapt + AssembleFurnishings and fabrics made to moveGeometric, linear interchangeable forms in fabrics in 3D; mono-material panels in playfully contrasting colours

Textile techniques simple; stitching and bindingTextile flat-colour lattice, grid and dot-matrix patterns created by print, jacquard and digital fabrication technologies such as laser cutting and 3D printing

Urban OasisInteriors green oases - restful colourKey statement colour for 2018 and beyondReplenish, nourish and energise minds and bodiesLush, tone-on-tone green hues to provide a healing, therapeutic and refreshing qualityTextural elements that replicate nature provide rich, indulgent feelDark forest greens and sages mixed with dusty roses to add warmth to heavy, luxe fabricsDark forest greens and rich jade are appearing in plush fabrics such as velvet in interior furnishings