uster® hvi classic - cotton · pdf fileh. ghorashi/ ci singapore, 04-04 18 of 22...
TRANSCRIPT
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USTER® HVI CLASSIC
Hossein Ghorashi
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04/27/20042 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
New Company
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04/27/20043 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® Products in the Cotton Supply Chain
For gin process
controlling...
For gin process
controlling...
fibertesting...
fibertesting...
yarntesting...
yarntesting...
yarn clearing ...
yarn clearing ...
...for fabric inspection !...for fabric inspection !
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04/27/20044 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Worldwide Cotton Production
19%19%5%5%
9%9%5%5%
27%27%
4%4%
13%13%India
China (Mainland)
Uzbekistan
Australia
5%5%USA
9%9%Pakistan
Turkey
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04/27/20045 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Worldwide Cotton Consumption
15%15%8%8%
3%3%
6%6%
25%25%34%34%
India, Pakistan & SE Asia
ChinaCentral Asia
9%9%
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04/27/20046 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Worldwide Cotton Quality
Quality Attribute Ranges (excluding Pima)
• Micronaire 2.7 - 5.9• Length 15/16 - 1 3/8 (32s)
0.94 - 1.37 (inch)23.8 - 34.9 (mm)
• Strength 23.0 - 35.5 HVI g/tex
Source: Cotton Varieties by Origin, Bremen Cotton Exchange
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04/27/20047 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI Installations Worldwide – 2003
Total: App. 1500 units in 71 countries
NAFTA 23%
S.America 9%
Europe 16%
Africa & Middle East
13%
Asia & Australia
39%
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04/27/20048 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Uster HVI Installations- Asia
Total Asia 518Indonesia 32Malaysia 4Philippines 9Thailand 26Vietnam 1
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04/27/20049 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTS
RESEARCH
Institutes
APPLIED
BreedingPrograms
MachineryManufacturers
Gins
Classing Laboratories
TextileMills
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04/27/200410 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTSApplied
GINS
On-LineProcess Control
On-Line ClassingColor, Leaf
Off-Line ClassingMicronaire,
Length, Strength
CLASSINGLABORATORIES
Warehousing
Marketing
TEXTILE MILLS
Procurement
Warehousing
MixSelection
Off-line Process Control
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04/27/200411 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Manual Cotton Classification
Based on:• Grade: Visual classification of color and
trash content• Staple: Manual determination of fiber
length
• Disadvantage: Highly dependent on human (= highly variable) Cotton Classer
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04/27/200412 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
History of Cotton ClassingHistory of Cotton Classing
Edgar Degas: “Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office”, 1873Edgar Degas: “Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office”, 1873
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• 100% HVI test results: Micronaire, UHML, Uniformity, Strength, and color (Rd and +b)
• Short Fiber Index, a direct measurement from fiber length distribution
• Leaf Grade is the only quality parameter still assigned by a (human) USDA Cotton Classer
• Advantage:• Improved Accuracy of Cotton Classification• Provides “common language” in international
cotton transactions
Instrument Cotton Classification
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04/27/200414 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Instrument Cotton Classification Color and Trash • Rd = Reflectance; the whiteness of the light that
is reflected by the cotton fibers
• +b = Yellowness; the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers
• Color Grade = Combination of Rd and +b; representing official USDA Upland Grade Standards
• Trash Count = the number of trash particles in the cotton sample on the measurement area
• Trash Area = indicates the size of trash in the cotton sample covering the measurement area
• Trash Grade = Determined by Trash Area, and compared to USDA Leaf Grade Standards
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04/27/200415 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USDA Cotton ClassificationUSDA Cotton Classification
• Since 1991: 100% USTER® HVI Cotton Classification
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04/27/200416 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Cotton Classing Operations• Examples of Cotton Classing Operations
using USTER® HVI Instruments:
Classing Organization Ownership
USDA (USA) Government
China Government
Uzbekistan Government
Brazil (BOLSA) Private
Brazil (SGS) Private
Australia Private
India (Maharastra) Government
Zimbabwe Private
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04/27/200417 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTSApplied
GINS
On-LineProcess Control
On-Line ClassingColor, Leaf
Off-Line ClassingMicronaire,
Length, Strength
CLASSINGLABORATORIES
Warehousing
Marketing
TEXTILE MILLS
Procurement
Warehousing
MixSelection
Off-line Process Control
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04/27/200418 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI Textile Mill ApplicationsResults Affecting Your Bottom Line • Standard Cotton Classification – worldwide• Common language for the seller and buyer of
cotton• Verifies cotton quality and insures the buyer
that he received what he paid for• Warehousing based fiber quality• Uniform and optimized lay-downs insures
desired end quality of yarn• Process optimization
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04/27/200419 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVIApplication Example
Fabric Barré
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04/27/200420 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI - Application ExampleCauses of Fabric Barré %Contribution
• Raw Material Variation (Fiber) 70%
• Yarn Count Variation 10%• Yarn Twist Variation 10%• Yarn Hairiness Variation 10%
⇒⇒ Variation in raw material (cotton lay-downs)is the major cause of fabric barré
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04/27/200421 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Cotton Fiber DevelopmentCotton Fiber Development
• Seed is planted (U.S.: Late April, early May)
• 2 weeks later, 2 leaves appear on the cotton plant
• At 5-6 weeks, the 1st flower bud appears; at 8-10 weeks, the 1st flower blooms; flowers fall off, leaving bolls
• Seed hair starts to grow inside the bolls
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04/27/200422 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Cotton Fiber DevelopmentCotton Fiber Development
closed boll
open boll
Dead Fiber
ImmatureFiber
NormalFiber
• In 16-18 days, the fibers grow in their perimeter (diameter) and length
• For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited inside the hollow fibers
• When the deposit of cellulose stops, the boll dries up and cracks open
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04/27/200423 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI - Application ExampleFabric Barré: Acceptable variation of Micronairebetween bales within 1 lay-down:
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
4.0
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
Bale Number
Micronaire
Avg. 4.1 CV 17.7%
Recommended CV < 10%Recommended CV < 10%
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04/27/200424 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI - Application ExampleFabric Barré: Acceptable change in average MicronaireFrom lay-down to lay-down
3.8
3.9
4.0
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Lay-down number
Micronaire
Maximum ± 0.1
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04/27/200425 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI - Application ExampleRaw Material Control –Single lot = 100 bales = 100%
MicronaireDistribution = normal
Maturity Distribution = normal
LOT #7
0.0%
5.0%
10.0%
15.0%
20.0%
25.0%
30.0%
3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7
Micronaire
LOT #7
0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93
Maturity
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04/27/200426 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI - Application ExampleRaw Material Control –Single lot = 100 bales = 100%
MicronaireDistribution = OutlierOutlier
Maturity Distribution = SkewedSkewed
LOT #1
0.0%
5.0%
10.0%
15.0%
20.0%
3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7
Micronaire
LOT #1
0.0%5.0%
10.0%15.0%20.0%25.0%30.0%35.0%40.0%
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93
Maturity
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04/27/200427 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI - Application ExampleFabric Barré – Prevention:• Do not exceed a change in average Micronaire
from mix to mix of more than +/- 0.1 Micronaire
• Maintain low variation of Micronaire within mix (CV below 10%)
• Do not place groups of bales with sameMicronaire side by side in lay-down
• Additional Maturity Index information helps eliminating outlier bales in the lay-down
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04/27/200428 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
Fabric Barré – Prevention:USTER® HVI - Application Example
ALL LOTs
0%2%4%6%8%
10%12%14%
3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7
Micronaire
5% Mature5% Mature= GOOD= GOOD
2% Immature2% Immature= BAD= BAD
• Use new Maturity Index to detect outliers!• Not all bales with a Micronaire below 4.0 are
immature fibers• Not all bales with a Micronaire between 4.0 and
4.4 are mature fibers
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• Need : The need for a lower priced HVI was noted
• Objective :The objective was to provide the same quality and functions of an Uster HVI Classing
• Solution :Refurbished HVI
Introducing :USTER® HVI CLASSIC
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04/27/200430 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
What is it?• USDA purchases 30-40 HVI Classing
annually• The same number of HVI are traded with the
new ones• The best of the trade-ins are selected,
refurbished by changing the moving components
• This HVI is meticulously tested using standard qualification procedures
• This is HVI Classic, Carries a 6 months warranty and is guaranteed a performance equivalent to the new units
Introducing :USTER® HVI CLASSIC
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04/27/200431 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI CLASSIC
Instrument in L-Shape Configuration
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USTER® HVI CLASSICBasic Functions• Measurements of cotton fibers (bale Samples):
• Length and Uniformity• Short Fiber Index• Strength and Elongation• Micronaire and Maturity Index• Color (Reflectance and Yellowness)• Trash (Particle Count and % Area)
• Cycle time: 30 seconds for 1 Micronaire, 2 L/S and 2 C/T tests per sample
• Throughput: 700 – 800 samples/ 8-hour shift with 1 operator
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04/27/200433 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI CLASSICFully automated HVI™
Micronaire
Length/ StrengthColor/
Trash
• Fully automated operation reduces operator influence to a minimum
• Measures both roller- and saw-ginned cotton according to ASTM standards
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• Additional customer value provided by unique algorithms:
• Expected waste levels indicated by the amount of short fibers (SFI = Short Fiber Index) in the cotton bale
• SFI also indicates how aggressive the cotton was ginned
• Micronaire alone does not prevent fabricbarré if cottons from different growth areas are used
• The Maturity IndexMaturity Index allows for better evaluation of such cottons
USTER® HVI CLASSICUnique Algorithms
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04/27/200435 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® HVI CLASSICBasic Functions• Data Report
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04/27/200436 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04
USTER® FIBER TESTING
Thank you for your attention!
Questions?