uk travelogue - day three

Nanc & Reubie’s Trip to the UK A celebration of 20 & 50

years

EdinburghLondon

Day Two - FridayEdinburgh20 May 2011

Nanc & Reubie’s Trip to the UKA celebration of 20 &

50 years

Up at 3:30 am to get ready then catch our 6:45 am flight from Heathrow to Edinburgh. (Reub a little fuzzy from night before.) While waiting for the bus around 5am-ish, we watched three girls back their car into the building. CRUNCH!! Clearly they were arriving back from a night on the town.

Waiting with us was an elderly woman traveling to Italy. Her husband recently passed and she was traveling for the first time alone. She seemed to be rather feisty and a total close-talker. Before we new it, she had nudged Reub quite afew feet down the sidewalk as she told us how crappy her travel had been so far. Don’t get us wrong, she certainly was sweet and really made us laugh.


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The flight to Edinburg was a bit cramped, but quick. Once on the ground and loaded like pack-mules again, searched for the correct bus to the hotel. After some friendly banter with an AirLink driver, I located the right one. We boarded just as the skies opened up…and did it pour!!!


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Upon arrival at the Ramada-Jarvis Mount Royal, we were totally thrilled when we walked up to the hotel. Facing Princes Street, it looked out over the gardens toward Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile! It would be fantastic if we can get a room facing THAT!!!

We were told we would not be able to check in until 2:00 pm.It was only 9 am-ish and Reubie needed GREASE!! Fortunately, the sky had cleared so we stowed our bags at the front desk and went off to find a bite to eat.

The Ramada-Jarvis Mount Royal


50 years

We walked all over New Town looking for a cool place for breakfast. Mental note: nothing, I mean NOTHING decent opens for business until noon in Edinburgh. We walked all over to find a place open…

Princes Street… Rose Street…Waverly Bridge… Market Street…Cockburn Street….

NUTHIN’! Not one place was open until noon.

The only thing open werecoffee shops; we wanted a bit more than that.


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Circling back toward the hotel along Prince’s Street, we dropped down to walk along the Prince’s Street Gardens.


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This is the oldest working floral clock in the world. Using thousands of flowers, it is re-created each year.

Nice view of The Castle on a clear spring day.

The Gardens were created in the 1820s following the long draining of the Nor Loch and the creation of the New Town. The Nor Loch was a large loch in the centre of the city. It was heavily polluted from centuries of sewage draining downhill from the Old Town.

The street is named Princes Street after King George III's two eldest sons, the Prince George, Duke of Rothesay (later King George IV) and the Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany.


50 years

One pass around New Town brought us back to our hotel and we decided to offload our coats and grab our camera from the bags. Reub asked at the desk if they happened to have a room ready…and they did! YIPPIE!!! We took everything up, dropped it in the room, looked out the window, and were greeted with this panoramic view!!

Edinburgh Castle

Salsibury Craigs

Scott Monument

The Dric Pub(Nancy’s 1st haggis

Reub’s 1st fish & chips)

Our room


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Edinburgh Castle Parade Grounds

Since we still had time to kill before the eateries opened up, we started up to Edinburgh Castle at the top of the hill. (PHEW!! Boy are we out of shape!!) Starting at the top of the Royal Mile, (oh, and a special thx to all those who suggested that!) we walked castle parade grounds. We chose to take the audio tour of the castle when we return to Edinburgh after our week up north.


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Next stop was Geoffrey (Tailor)Kiltmakers and Weavers just outside The Castle gates. For some reason, I could not get Reub interested in getting a kilt. Personally, I think he would look totally HOT in a kilt and jacket! I’ve never been a huge fan of tartans, but they had some really beautiful patterns. DAMN my wool allergy!!!


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We meandered down the Royal Mile to see what was there. (BTW…The mile long road that stretches between Edinburgh Castle and the Holyrood Palace actually changes names 4 times?!? What the…??) The street is full of little shops selling kilts & cashmere scarves, museums of all sorts, oddball shops, cafes, and pubs. Each one with a personality all it’s own.

We “took 5” on a bench and took the pix above. Across the street, we noticed a young street musician playing guitar and singing. I commented to Reub that if he started singing “Bad, Bad Leroy Brown” I would fall off the bench laughing!!! (Those of you with us on our trip to Germany will understand that one.) Actually, we both broke out laughing at the prospect!!

The Royal Mile - Looking Up

The Royal Mile - Looking down

While exploring one of the many closes that run off the main street, we found this tiny door. Boy were they short back then!!!


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FINALLY it was time to head to The Doric for lunch. We wound our way thru the streets, closes, and arcades to the pub. Built in the 17th century, adapted as a gastro-pub in the 18th century, The Doric Tavern comprises the Doric Bar on Market Street and the Doric Bistro on the floor above. Claiming to be the oldest gastro-pub in the area, we heard raves about it on the FoodNetwork.


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Reub had his first dish of true UK fish & chips with mushy peas. Not a bad place to have your first try, tho. It was really, really good! Every time he turned his head, I’d find a way to steal a chip with tartar sauce.


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I had my first taste of true Scottish Haggis Neeps & Tatties. Yes, I know what your are thinking… it looks like a cross between baby food and puke, and you would be right. The taste, however, was fantastic… well, except for the orange goo. Not too sure what that was, but it was not very nice.

NEEPS and

TATTIES


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After lunch we continued down the Royal Mile. By this time, it was really getting to be a hoppin’ place. Lots of people. We couldn’t get over the ladies wearing some of the most inappropriate high heels. On those cobble streets?!? REALLY???We got all the way down near Holyrood Palace when we saw the impressive Salisbury Crags. Reub and I were approximating at what point in that hike each of us would have our heart-attack! For logical reasons, we opted NOT to attempt the crag on our first day out.

Reub’sHeart Attack

Nancy’sHeart Attack


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The cliff face of Salisbury Crags looks down on Edinburgh like a grand fortress. Situated in Holyrood Park, less than a half-mile (1 km) southeast of Princes Street, the Crags represent the glaciated remains of a Carboniferous sill, injected between sedimentary rocks which formed in a shallow sea some 340 million years ago. Glaciers sweeping outwards from the centre of Scotland have left a classic crag-and-tail, descending gently towards Arthur's Seat and Whinny Hill in the East. Salisbury Crags are of great significance in the development of modern geology. At Hutton's Section, the Edinburgh geologist James Hutton (1726-97) recognised that the rock now forming the Crags had been injected in a molten state. He was able to use this evidence to disprove the suggestion of the influential German, Abraham Werner, that all rocks had crystallised from a supposed primordial sea.


50 years

Looking back at the Royal Mile from the Salisbury Crags


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We were unable to tour Holyroodhouse because they were having a ‘do’ that day. We did, however, walk around the perimeter to see it from all sides.

Palace of Holyroodhouse


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Founded as a monastery by David I, King of Scots in 1128, it has served as the principal residence of the Kings and Queens of Scotland since the 15th century. Queen Elizabeth II spends one week in residence at Holyrood Palace at the beginning of each summer, where she carries out a range of official engagements and ceremonies.

Palace of Holyroodhouse


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Making our way around the backside of Holyrood Palace we saw the ruins of Holyrood Chapel where Mary, Queen of Scots married her husband Lord Darnley1565.


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Queen Mary’s Bath House… or not?


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On the Hunt for Greyfriar’s Bobby

I was on a mission to locate Greyfriars Bobby. I knew it was near a cemetery but was having a difficult time locating it on our map. Since there was a cemetery close to Holyroodhouse, we walked toward it. Worst case scenario: no Bobby, but an interesting cemetery to explore.

Cemetery

Ho

lyro

od


50 years

On the Hunt for Greyfriar’s Bobby

There was a very tall wall surrounding the cemetery with no way to get in (insert “dying to get in” joke here.) As it turns out, this is the Calton New Cemetery. Not the one associated with Greyfriars Bobby. We could not get in from here so decided to continue back to the mile. Too bad tho, we found out later there were interesting things here like…..


50 years

Calton New Cemetery

A focal point of the graveyard, just in front of Hume’s tomb, this piece of statuary was erected in 1893. It depicts a standing figure of Abraham Lincoln, with a freed slave giving thanks at his feet. A bronze shield bears the old US flag, and is wreathed in thistles to the left, and cotton to the right. Two regimental flags lay furled, the battle being over. The black man holds a book, indicating that he is not only free, he is also now educated. This was the first statue to an American President in any country outside the USA. It is the only statue of Lincoln in Scotland, and the only monument to the American Civil War outside the USA. The monument was erected at American expense to a small group of Scots (only one of whom, William Duff, is buried under the monument, the rest being nearby) to whom it felt indebted, and wished their graves to be marked, despite their later poverty. They had all fought for the Union (the North) in the American Civil War. The inscription, "To preserve the jewel of liberty in the framework of Freedom" is a quotation from the writings of Abraham Lincoln.


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We continued up Calton Rd. and saw this building called ‘Studio 24’. Check out the weird things hanging on the building.

Found out that this place is an alternative night club. Here is an interesting review about it: “It is a grimy little club down around the back of Waverley but has some amazing club nights on and just is one of those filthy places that are awesome.”


50 years

Back to the Royal Mile

Knowing we were on the wrong track to find Bobby, we took this road back up to the Royal Mile. On the other side of the wall on the left is another graveyard and just ahead of us is the Old Tolbooth Wynd.


50 years

Back to the Royal Mile

This close, built in 1591, takes its name from the Auld Tolbuith of the Canongate.

Subsequent to its original function, the Tolbooth was the council chambers of the old Burgh of Canongate, a police court, and latter a prison.

The turreted steeple and clock make this building instantly recognizable. The building now housesthe Tolbooth Tavern and a museum which tells 'The

People's Story'. In doing so it provides the visitor with a fascinating insight to the sounds, sights and smells of life in the City's past.


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Just east of the old Tolbooth Wynd, we decided to check out the Canongate Kirkyard.

Opened in 1691 this 17th century kirk designed by James Smith is unique among Scottish churches of this period.

Recently restored, it holdsa new Frobenius organ 1000, which is the first in Scotland. Buried in the kirkyard are several famous Scots…

Canongate Kirk


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The church was founded in 1688 and completed in 1691. A large area of ground was purchased beyond that simply required for the erection of the church. This appears to have been used for burial immediately from the church's foundation in 1688. This area is now fully occupied as a burial ground.

The Canongate Churchyard is the resting place of several Edinburgh notables including the economist Adam Smith, the philosopher and Smith's biographer Dugald Stewart, Agnes Maclehose (the "Clarinda" of Robert Burns), David Rizzio, the murdered private secretary of Mary, Queen of Scots, and the poet Robert Fergusson, whose statue in bronze by David Annand stands outside the kirk gate.

Canongate Kirkyard

Bishop James Ramsay is also buried here.


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A police box is a British telephone kiosk or callbox located in a public place for the use of members of the police, or for members of the public to contact the police. Unlike an ordinary callbox, its telephone is located behind a hinged door so it can be used from the outside, and the interior of the box is, in effect, a miniature police station for use by police officers. Used in the UK since 1891, the iconic boxes underwent may incarnations until they were phased out in the 1970’s.Today the image of the blue police box is widely associated with the BBC program “Doctor Who”, in which the protagonist's time machine, a TARDIS, is in the shape of a 1960s British police box. In the context of a TARDIS, the image of the blue police box is a trademark of the BBC.

Doctor Who Lands on the Royal Mile?

Repurposed as a coffee shop


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We stopped for a few at The Mitre Pub and spent a while resting and people watching.

They had a cider on tap called “Aspall” which was the best one of the entire trip!

MMMMMM…Tennant’s is my new favourite!

WE HAVE DECLARED THAT IT IS BEER:30!!


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STILL BEER:30!!

We wandered down another street and had one at The Malt Shovel. A real nice gal behind the bar suggested another bar to visit called The Banshee. She said that there was a really cool room there that was actually part of the original catacombs.

She also showed where there was a bead shop one block over from The Banshee and well as where Greyfriar’s Bobby was located.


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I sent Reuben to The Banshee while I went over a block to check out the bead shop that didn’t exist.

The Banchee Labyrinth


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Returning to The Banshee to meet up with Reub I found a …ehm …well …let’s just say, it was a rather gothic-style bar with severe slant toward the S&M crowd. Needless to say, Reuben was nowhere to be found in any of the inner catacombs. Wandering around in a place like that just before all the ‘regulars’ started to get there is pretty interesting, I can even imagine what it would be like during peek-time. Wait, make that….I DON’T want to imagine that!!!

I found Reub at the top of the street looking a little weirded-out.

The Banchee Labyrinth

Did I see the original catacombs? Ehm……Yes I did…‘Nuf said.


50 years

Intent on visiting The Greyfriar’s Bobby Pub and the associated kirkyard, I dragged Reub around the off-streets just north of Edinburgh Castle. (for those paying attention, that is actually back to the top of the Royal Mile…I can tell you, our dogs were barking!!)Completed in 1620, the structure holds a key role in the history of Scotland. This is where the National Covenant was signed in 1638, marking the Protestant stand against the imposition of an Episcopal church by King Charles I.Despite many key historical happenings at The Greyfriar’s, it is mostly known for the story of a dog named Bobby. Bobby’s master was buried in the kirkyard behind the pub and lived by the grave from his master’s death in 1858 until his own death in 1872. He was fed and watered by the people of the pub for as long as he lived in the kirkyard.Bobby was laid to rest in the kirkyard of his master and his statue stands outside the Greyfriar’s Kirk, just in front of the pub.

Greyfriars Bobby


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Bobby died in 1872 after fourteen years of standing vigil for his master, John Gray. Rightly so, everyone believed that Bobby should

be buried near his master. However, he could not be buried within the kirkyard itself since it was regarded "consecrated" ground. To get around that, Bobby was buried just inside the gate of Greyfriars kirkyard, about 75 yards from John Gray’s grave.

Bobby with the Traill family

The Story of Greyfriars Bobby

Bobby

Bobby was a black Skye Terrier who belonged to John Gray, a night watchman for the Edinburgh City Police. Bobby and John were inseparable. They were both frequent visitors to the café at #6 Greyfriars Place.

When John died of tuberculosis in 1858, Bobby was two years old. John was buried unceremoniously in Greyfriars Kirkyard in the old town of Edinburgh without a gravestone. It is said that from then on, Bobby stayed in this graveyard guarding over his master’s grave. He left the grave only for his midday meal at the same restaurant at #6 Greyfriars Place at the sound of the one o’ clock gun. The keeper of the graveyard, after many attempts to remove Bobby, gave up and finally provided a make shift shelter space for him next to John Gray’s grave. The dog soon became the talk of the town

The restaurant was taken over by John Traill in 1862, as The Refreshment Rooms & Temperance Coffee House. The restaurant’s employees and clientele looked after Bobby and John Traill did not complain about the additional business that was drawn to his establishment. A by-law passed in 1862 dictated that dogs must have a license or they would be destroyed and Bobby was in danger of being put down in 1867 when Traill refused to pay for his license. Sir William Chambers (The Lord Provost of Edinburgh) paid Bobby’s license himself, and presented him with a collar with the brass inscription “Greyfriars Bobby from the Lord Provost 1867 licensed”.


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A year after Bobby’s death, Baroness Burdett-Coutts was so moved by the story she financed the erection of a granite fountain and statue of Bobby in 1873. Designed as a water fountain for both humans and dogs, she dedicated it to John Traill “the kind friend of poor faithful Greayfriars Bobby.” Originally it was erected opposite the Kirkyard facing the graveyard. But later it was turned around, allegedly by the owner of the Greyfriars Bobby’s bar, so that the bar would appear in the background of the statue in the countless photographs people took of this faithful dog.

The Story of Greyfriars Bobby

Baroness Burdett-Coutts

A red granite stone was erected on Bobby's grave by The Dog AidSociety of Scotland, and unveiled by the Duke of Gloucester on 13 May1981. In a shrine-like manner, people have paid their respects with

sticks (for Bobby to fetch) and occasionally dog toys, flowers etc. The headstone is engraved with these words which are apt:

“Greyfriars Bobby – died 14th January 1872 – aged 16 years – Let hisloyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all”.

Great story, doncha think?


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After an enjoyable pint in the pub, we strolled over to the Greyfriar’s kirkyard. In an odd twist of fate, after seeing a monument to a dog, I found myself having to remove doggie-poopie from my boot.

It sure must have been from a large and healthy pooch…It wouldn’t come off!! (Later that evening found me in the loo of the hotel using an extra toothbrush from the plane to get it off.)

Greyfriars Kirkyard


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Some that know us may be aware of our interest in old graveyards. Creepy, perhaps, but it is really interesting to read about the people from the epitaphs on the stones. The engravings can be quite insightful and offer a small glimpse into the life and times of the past.From the simple to the extravagant, we find it just fascinating to visit these hallowed grounds on a beautiful day like this.

Greyfriars Kirkyard


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After the kirkyard, we trekked up and over High Street, back to Rose Street to find a place for dinner. As we walked Rose Street, we couldn’t help but notice the beautiful mosaic roses that decorated the cobble street.

Hmmmmm… I’m inspired. Who knows what sort of mosaics may show up in our back yard!

Rose Street


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What a dilemma! There are sooooo many restaurants and pubs on Rose Street to choose from. We did get a couple of suggestions from one of the street performers so we picked one of them. Milnes of Rose Street pub. The building housing Milnes arrived with the first phase of Edinburgh's New Town in about 1790. It started life as the home of an advocate, and later of two sisters who worked as dressmakers. In 1880 it was purchased by John Norrie, a chiropodist. In 1910 the company Lomond and Milne opened a spirit merchants in the cellars here. By the mid 1900s this had become a pub known as Daddy Milnes.

The Milnes of Rose Street


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After dinner we walked back to the hotel. Still spinning from the day, we decided to wind down in the hotel bar with a Stongbow and a Tennent.

The Princes Lounge at the Mount Royal


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What a long day! Had soooo much fun, but it seemed so much longer than a single day. WOW! Once back in the room, and after cleaning my shoe, we checked the old pedometer …29,932 steps! That’s 16 miles!!! OMG!!!

End of Day Two

uk travelogue - day three

Travel

uka celebration

princes street gardens

years londonedinburghday

new town broughtus

old town

night onthe town

king george iiis

prince george