ubud life 19th edition
DESCRIPTION
These beautiful dragon is part of a Dragon Kites that are often sold to tourists but they alsoplay an important part in the annual kite festival held near Sanur from 13-15 July 2014 it is a must see on Balinese event calendar. Come! Enjoy!TRANSCRIPT
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UbudLifeguide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine
NO. 19 • JUNE - AUGUST 2014
BALI KITE FESTIVALWAYAN UPADANA
THE HERONS OF PETULUTHE OTHER WORLD OF KINTAMANI
THE KAMPUNG, AMEDUBUD MARKET
Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925. She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even
travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant
is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with
friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.
72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 [email protected] | www.iburai.com
editorubudlife-gsb teamcreative graphic designerdedito ssn.photographeri gusti ketut windiasales and marketingketut muliartanifinanceKomang Susilawatidistributionubudlife-gsb teamcontributorsrichard horstmanmark ulyseas jean couteau chef simonayu sekarjenny bibu katlisapublisherGSB (gemini studio bali)kuta permai blok II no. 23, tubanbypass ngurah rai, kuta - bali 80361p: 0361 752691, f: 0361 764360e: [email protected]: www.ubudlife.comdirectorputu santosa
views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.
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Om Swastiastu
I was sitting with a friend from Singapore one night and she remarked “Ubud is a lifestyle!” Well what an interesting concept.
But it is true. Lifestyle is exactly what Ubud is about which is why it is attracting so many people to visit, to live, to retire here. It has become a centre for westerners concerned with life in al its myriad forms.
While some come just to look, others come to stay, to enjoy the Ubud experience, to heal ( Ubud after all is derived from the Sanskrit word for medicine), to learn yoga, to learn how to teach yoga, to distress, to detox, and to take time off to make life changes.
The face of this delightful mountain town has changed radically over the past ten years. Simple little hole in the walls shops have become glassed in galleries, the rice fields ( sawah) have shrunk, hiding behind new hotels, guests houses, restaurants and healing centres.
Through it all, the Balinese continue their extraordinary lives, with rounds of moon related ceremonies and celebrations, rites of passage, weddings and passings on into the next realm. Almost every facet of life is celebrated communally, and with great vigour, helping to keep the community strong.
If it is raw food you want, a cappucino, raw chocolate, excellent Italian fare, or food from myriad nations, you will find it all here. Detox? Juice fast? Tantric retreat? Energy healing? Sitting by a pool in a luxury hotel enjoying the divine views? It is all here and it is no wonder that Ubud has won awards for the best place to live in Asia. Enjoy and do try to make the most of your stay whether it is a day, a month, a year or a lifetime.!
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om
The Editor
UbudLife MAG
Cover photo GSB CollectionThese beautiful dragon is part of a Dragon Kites that are often sold to tourists but they
alsoplay an important part in the annual kite festival held near Sanur from 13-15 July 2014 it is a must see on Balinese event calendar. Come! Enjoy!
EDITOR’S NOTE Like Us! facebook.com/ubudlifemagz
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contents
60 THE HERONS OF PETULU 70
THE KAMPUNG AMED
20 AT THE UBUD MARKET 36 WAYAN UPADANA
76 THE OTHER WORLD OFKINTAMANI
PIZZA HUNT 42
12 BALI’S POWERFUL BARONG MASK
Br. Kebon, Tegallalang, Gianyar, Bali - Indonesia | Phone: +62 361 980 970 | Fax: +62 361 980 969Email: [email protected] | Website; www.abingterrace.com
Enjoy your beautiful scenery during your stay here. Large and luxurious yoga space, room with very romantic view, open bathroom, garden and lush garden, stunning rice terrace, and infinite swimming pool.
Great activities such as: yoga retreat, rice terrace trekking, jungle trekking, bird watching, holy bathing, sight seeing in near traditional village will give you unforgettable experiences.
We also provide you with excellent raw food, vegan food, or normal food. You can order in advance any dishes and we will make your lunch or dinner experience great.
BALI’S POWERFULBARONG MASKS
by ib kat • images jill alexander
Performance and sacral masks play an integral role in Bali’s ceremonies and rituals. “Masks are powerful receptacles of wandering spirits; they represent witches, gods, animals and people,” says Judy Slattum,
who produced the only scholarly book yet to be published about Balinese masks in 1992. “Masks are objects of deep power and mystical significance.”
Most mask carvers make ‘art shop’ or commercial masks. To make sacred masks however, a carver must undergo a purification ceremony and learn special rituals. Only a few (usually high caste) carvers are permitted to undertake the creation of the sacred Barong and Rangda/Durga masks.
Although there are several significant masks used in Balinese rituals the most important ones are Barong and Durga/Rangda. Always together, they represent Bali’s fundamental duality: masculine/feminine energies, harmony and balance, good versus evil. Sacred masks are used during Calonarang dance with the widow witch as the main character, or Durga, or Shiva manifesting anger. So this same mask may represent three or more different characters .
The Barong is associated with the animistic world and represents the king of the forest; there is no equivalent in India. The most common Barong is the Barong Ket, but there are also boar, tiger, cow and (rarely) deer Barongs. He appears in several dances, but
his chief function is to patrol the village on certain auspicious occasions, asserting his power. Not all villages have Barong and Durga masks. Sometimes a villager will go into a spontaneous trance and be ‘entered’ by a spirit. People pay very close attention to the information transmitted by the spirit through the person in trance, carefully writing it down. If the spirit says that the village needs a Barong, then a committee will approach a master carver to discuss the order and ask where they can obtain the correct wood.
It’s no small matter for a village to order a Barong and a Rangda. A medium quality mask will cost about 60 million rupiah and a top quality one more than twice that, reflecting the amount of gold leaf that’s applied to the mask. But if the spirit demands it, the village must raise the funds.
A committee goes to the village where the correct type of tree grows to ask permission to use the wood, and pay for a ceremony in which the priest makes a token cut in the wood, after which a piece of wood is removed
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CULTURE
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and blessed by a priest on arrival. The wood will season for six months before the priest names an auspicious day for the carving to begin.
When working on the mask, the carver wears pakaian adat (Balinese traditional dress) and is very careful not to cut himself and pollute the wood with blood. Carving a mask takes about a month, and the elaborate costume that accompanies it may take another two.
The finished mask requires a small purification ceremony because the wood has been polluted by being on the ground and held between the carver’s feet.
When the mask is ready it’s taken to the village’s Pura Dalem temple. The mask is not yet sacred. A pasupati ceremony, held on an auspicious full or dark moon night, is held to invite the spirit to enter the mask. It’s important for the people of the village to witness the spirit inhabiting the mask, but many women are afraid to attend this powerful ritual.
In the middle of the cemetery the masks are set on human skulls, and the priests and priestesses conduct rituals to invite in the
spirit. Judy’s husband Surya, who’s witnessed this phenomena a dozen times, described it to me. “A solid ball of flame flies from the temple into the mask, which glows. The priests and priestesses are possessed by the spirit of the mask and begin to howl -- sometimes the onlookers are possessed as well. The priests don the masks and dance them for the first time in trance. The energy is amazing, very intense. Then the masks lead a procession of villagers to the temple, where the masks will live.”
Once the spirit has entered it, the mask becomes extremely powerful. It’s wrapped in white cloth and stored in the Pura Dalem, only leaving it for a ceremony or ritual. It can only be touched by a priest or priestess; when a performer needs to wear the mask, it’s placed on him by a priest, the actor does not touch it. Purified masks used in other mask dances are never displayed on walls, but stored in fabric bags in the village or family temple.
These sacred masks are intense labours of devotion, their glossy surfaces receiving at least 40 coats of paint, with meticulous sanding between each. The paint used on a sacred mask must be natural and organic, and is painstakingly prepared daily with calcified pig bones, plant pigments, clay and carbon. They are decorated with gold leaf, horse hair, jewels, Chinese coins, boar tusks and mirrors.
Because they are integral to Bali’s living religion, the ritual art of mask making continues to thrive in Bali although it is fading in other cultures.
The powerful masks continue to protect the people of Bali, and in turn are deeply honoured by them.
Judy’s book ‘Masks of Bali’ is available in Periplus and Ganesha Bookstores....
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As the clock strikes nine, the sound of the shutters rolling up at Ubud Market
marks the beginning of another day. Clothes and artifacts, plates and tee shirts are brought out to for display. But by nine, the day is almost done for all the villagers who have been there since the early hours of the morning.
The market has two lives - a semi schizoid life that starts way before dawn when the produce market creaks open to supply most of the Balinese and a few savvy foreigners with their vegetables, meat, and spices. It starts before light and by six it is crammed.
Wayan the babi guling seller doles up portions of her immaculate dish – served the Balinese way, replete with fragrant spices and a piquant sambal.
The old stall that sold Ubud’s best Ayam Betutu has disappeared along with the recent demolition of much of what made Ubud’s market special. People would roll up quietly, as if going to church, and sit waiting passively for their dish to be served. Rumour has it they have moved to a new place but a little more detective work needs to be done!
Fresh, newly harvested vegetables, chickens, pieces of pork, delicious boiled fish from Kusamba or Lebih Beach (that just needs to be taken home and fried to make a satisfying addition to a plate of rice and vegetables) can all be found here. Kitchen utensils and things for the home, plastic bags buckets brooms and itinerant hawkers all portray a microcosm of Balinese daily life.
Sit on the bench in front of Wayans Babi guling stall and enjoy the passing parade while sipping on a glass of steaming Balinese coffee!
As the slanting sun’s rays move quickly to the vertical and the morning cool disperses into the heat of the day, the character changes.
By nine the crowd has thinned, and the cooking school groups appear – long crocodiles of folk clutching their cameras, as they are regaled with the intricacies of Balinese spices and other exotic forms they don’t find n their home towns. It is fun to watch the changing tides.
AT the Ubud Market a p l e a f o r p o s t e r i t y
IN UBUD
By nine the crowd has thinned, and the cooking school groups appear – long crocodiles of folk clutching their cameras, as they are regaled with the intricacies of Balinese spices and other exotic forms they don’t find n their home towns. It is fun to watch the changing tides.
So as the shutters of the new, sadly charmless section opens, and vendors are looking for their first sale, prices are good. Buy some thing, get
the bargain of the day and add to their “pelaris, pelaris,” as they whack their wares with their first earned cash! I guess it means something like “good luck” but its always fun.
Enjoy the shopping and one can only hope that the gorgeous, smelly, colourful, and full of life sections of this market live to last a few more years....
happenings around ubud
Bali Arts Festival 2014 For over thirty - five years Bali’s grand Arts Festival in Denpasar has been thrilling people with its displays of everything fabulous about Bali. The island is scoured to find the best dance troupes, the best gamelan orchestras, and the most innovative new performances from the most talented choreographers. The Balinese performers will also be joined by other national and international cultural performers.
Starting on 14th June, until 14th July this month long celebration of the arts features performances of dance, drama, and dramatic dance in and around Puputan Square on the northern limits of Denpasar.
This year, students and lecturers from Denpasar’s Indonesian Arts Institute (ISI) Denpasar will be performing at the opening on June 14, with a rendition of “Bali Dwipa”.
After the mega production of the opening with all its fanfare and brouhaha, the festival settles in to a series of performances, some of which are really worth seeing. Fusions, cross cultural performances can be particularly exciting, as can some of the very authentic traditional dance and gamelan shows.
Other exhibitions of gold and silver, traditional textiles, handicrafts and food stalls will all attend the area of the festival to make it into a major cultural show! Don’t miss it!
www.baliartsfestival.com
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Localista
That popular little coffeteria on Jl Suweta has moved. It is a month of moves it seems. Now they are located in their bright new, air - conditioned palace across the street.
Sit outside and watch the street while you enjoy a salad, or sit inside and appreciate Rio’s gorgeous photos in airconditioned comfort. Cup cakes and cappuccino anyone?
Title: “Fishing” By I Wayan Suarmadi
Size: 99cm x 198cm | Media: sand and acrylic on canvas | Year: 2014
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High as a Kite at the Bali Kite Festival on July, 2014Every year as the winds blow strong from the East, the kites start to rise up, covering the skies with phantasmorgorical shapes Goblins, vampires and all kinds of scarey monsters compete in the non traditional category. You may also see a flying train, or even a green goblin. It is of course, heaven on earth for children of all ages.
To make the most of the big winds, several kite festivals are held in the Sanur area. Huge crowds, amazing kites and serious competition from the attending banjars make it a day to remember!
The biggest festival is a two day event held in Padanggalak, on the beach area just north of Sanur. Huge kites, the buzzing of humming kites, speeches, banjars, folks dressed in traditional gear, gamelan orchestras accompany the teams, some of which take the show very seriously. After all their very reputations as kite people are at stake.
While the festival runs for three days, at least a one day visit is almost essential if
you are lucky enough to be in Bali. Nothing will really quite prepare you for the visual extravaganza.
Please check the date on the internet closer to the time as dates can change. Bali Kite Fest 26-28th July T: 081238225508 he comes to Ubud several times a week.
TrattoriaHas moved to a new location. So don’t get nervous if you head to Sanggingan and find it gone! If you are dreaming of some great Italian pizza, or a plate of fresh pasta and some innovative salads, You can head to Nyuh Kuning to their cosy new restaurant just past the football field on the road to the Monkey Forest. This is a much smaller venue than the big one they had in Sanggingan and it is almost like a local eatery, though with a quality of food that is difficult to find outside of Italy.
The wine list is smaller than the old venue, but you will be sure to find something to tickle your palate or just stick to the sublime San Pelligrino that always does you good!
Trattoria – Jl Raya Nyuh Kuning on the road to the Monkey Forest. Drop in and pick up a menu as they also deliver!
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Bali Sound Healing Collective Moves to TaksuTaksu in central Ubud is now host to Bali’s singular community of sacred musicians and sound therapists. The talented founder, Shervin Boloorian, will also offer private sound therapy sessions there so don’t miss out.
Formed in 2012, the collective draws together a truly eclectic group of musicians who hold regular live concerts, meditations and workshops. The Collective has already presented an interesting range of sacred music including didgeridoo and sacred instruments. Authentic ancient Sufi chants touch from Iran and India, touch your very soul. Heartsongs and Mantras, Native American sounds, guttural Tibetan Deep Throat Chants, Elemental
Sound Harmonizations, Balinese and Indian Vedic Sounds, Tibetan and Crystal Bowls and much more come together in amazing blendings of sound that are guaranteed to send you to another dimension. Each session is unique and all are relaxing to the point when some attendees fall into deep sleep.
The session may include a combination of gentle vocal exercises, conscious movement, a sound meditation journey and a relaxing live music experience. The Sound Healing Collective performs at Taksu every Thursday and Sunday evenings.
Taksu Jl Goutama south
Book Signing At Murni’s WarungThat well known icon of Ubud, Murni’s Warung, that has held generations in awe – with its riverside location and beautiful atmosphere will play host to a multi book signing and talks on Sunday 8th June . Located in Campuhan by the bridge, it promises to be a pleasing event for those interested in things Indonesian.
Meet the authors of the new releasebook “Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage - Cultural Journeys of Discovery. Everyone welcome. David and Stephanie will present images from their book in a spectacular colour presentation on a big screen with Indonesian music interwoven throughout the visual journey.
It is certainly a day for Baliphiles and all those interested in things Indonesian. Come, learn, enjoy.
Please join on Sunday afternoon, 8th June.
RSVP to Murni’s - Jonathan [email protected]
Toro SushiYande may not sound like a very Japanese name and well it’s not! But this owner and chef, serves up some of Ubud’s best Japanese cuisine at surprisingly affordable rates. Yande learned his skills in Florida, working at several of their best Japanese restaurants. His last post before returning home, was in downtown Orlando, where movie stars and top players from Orlando Magic – (their top basketball team) were his clientele.
When Bar Luna on neighboring Jalan Goutama moved to Casa Luna, Yande took it for his second venue. (the first is in nearby Jl Dewi Sita). With a more visible location, this place too, is hopping happy customers who want their California style sushi rolls at value-for-money prices. Everyone loves the two for one mojitoes during their 4pm – 7pm Happy Hours.
Their menu is huge for such tiny places, but Yande’s kitchen expertise ensures consistently good quality. For newcomers, the sushi – sashimi combo is ideal. Gyozas are always a great starter and any sushi with his fabulous spicy tuna will hit the spot. Their chicken teriyaki is often raved about too! Arrive early as it is hard to make a decision!
Best to reserve: 0361970791 Jl Dewi Sita. 0361971832 Jl Goutama restaurant.
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Pasar Pasar at Sopa GardenThe spacious new Sopa Garden Restaurant and more on the turn off to Nyuh Kuning will soon hold their third Pasar-Pasaran. On 14th and 15th June 2014, their garden will swarm with guests enjoying myriad activities.
On 14th there will be our “Pasar Prakarya” craft workshops and they invite all crafters from Bali, Bandung, Jogja and Jakarta to join us.
The Pasar Pasaran market will run from 10am-3pm on the 15th. This event is really good for you to promote your products and services.
Health vendors, mediators, yoga teaches and all kinds of other holistic folk will be there! We expect about 200 people to come. Come along and bring your friends. Entrance is free!
https://www.facebook.com/kerdus.ubud.5
Lake Buyan FestivalLake Buyan is having a party. Located on the northern side of the volcanic Mt Bedugul, it is one of the trilogy of lakes that lie by the mountain. Tamblingan and Lake Bratan are the other two more famous relatives.
From 20th til the 22rd of June this lake area will come alive in a festival created to improve the relationship between Agriculture and tourism. While it seems to be aimed mostly for the Balinese, it promises to be a delightful few days.
All kinds of agricultural competitions are being organized and knowing the Balinese it will be quirky and colourful. There will be trekking around the lake and a fishing competition on the lake. A competition with giant tops is also something rarely seen.
Exhibitions and lots of culinary fare will keep the crowds happy. Parades and dance performances will add to the festive atmosphere. Bull races are also on the cards! The main venue is the courtyard of Ulun Danu Buyan by the lakeside. Come and enjoy the fun !
For more information contact Bapak Wayan Sugusta: [email protected]
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PILAR BATU GALLERY
ADDRESS:JALAN PENGOSEKAN, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI | PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044
EMAIL: [email protected] | WWW.PILARBATU.COM
Presenting fine art quality of painting and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi
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by richard horstman • images ayu sekar
WAYAN UPADANA
Can you imagine icons of the Balinese culture represented reclining, cheerfully in a bathtub or bowl, drenched in luscious, liquid chocolate? The idea makes the eyebrows
rise, and the taste buds stand upright too.
These unusual figures, sculptures by Balinese contemporary artist Wayan Upadana are, however, expressed not only to insight our curiosity, yet also in order to make important statements. Under the spotlight in such works is the meeting of two opposing worlds, that of the artist’s traditional culture along with the modern, and according to Upadana, there are
critical issues that require swift attention.
Art is indeed a mysterious medium, perhaps one of the most misunderstood of all human expressions. Somehow in the process miraculous and
unimaginable creations become manifest, often from sources completely unknown. In the case of Wayan Upadana, how does this
young artist’s imagination and creative prowess arrive at works so fantastic, yet relevant as well?
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WHO’S WHO
“Contemporary art in Bali is still growing,” says Upadana. “Yet to avoid becoming stuck and rehashing ideas, local artists need to pursue new experiences and learning prospects – they need to invest in traveling outside of their island.”
In the process of creative development it is essential for young contemporary artists, living within the restraints of their Balinese Hindu culture, to step outside of their communities and be introduced to new artistic landscapes, ideas, people and alternative cultures. Not to mention have the opportunity to access different and higher standards of education.
“My love of Balinese traditional art and culture inspired me as a child to draw and paint. I am continually fascinated by the array of creative expressions people are able to invest our energy into. Yet it wasn’t until studying painting in high school that I began to dream of becoming a professional artist,” says Upadana. “In 2000 I saw a big exhibition by Indonesia’s most respected art collective, Sanggar Dewata Indonesia (SDI) in a museum in Bali. This had an enormous impact upon my future visions.”
In 2001 Upadana moved from Bali to the dynamic city of Yogyakarta, Central Java, the cultural capital of Indonesia, driven by his dream of becoming an SDI member, and a desire to learn of new cultures. To be a member of SDI Upadana had to study art at the prestigious Yogyakarta ISI, the Indonesian Art Institute.
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What we foreigners may perceive as a mere relocation to the neighboring island of Java is in fact something few Balinese ever consider contemplating. The Balinese culture is very much focused on systems of cooperation between families and the community and offers people enormous social and spiritual security.
ISI molds artists of distinction, and somehow the character of their creativity is easily recognizable. Renown for producing some of the most important experimental Balinese artists, spearheaded in the 1970’s by the likes of Gunarsa, Wianta and Erawan, ISI Yogya, for those with the opportunity and the willingness, is a pinnacle, and one of the most desired destinations of Indonesian art education.
At ISI Yogya, captivated by the exploration of 3 dimensional forms, Upadana studied sculpture, working with various materials including wood, stone, metals and resins. He learned the craft of video art that has become a powerful language of communicating his ideas, and especially important in emphasizing one of his main artistic concepts, that art, just like life is an ongoing process. In many of Upadana’s recent sculptures he utilizes resin, and the manner in which these works are completed often emphasizes melting and flowing liquid forms, cleverly underlining this concept.
Living in Yogyakarta presented Upadana with life challenges that helped tostrengthen his character, amongst them working to
support his studies and living costs carving stone sculptures and doing whatever tasks he could to earn money. The “friction” created by the multi cultural fusion of Indonesian ethnic groups unique to Yogyakarta provided fertile grounds for contemplation and congestion of creative ideas. Looking from the outside in, Upadana became increasingly sensitive to the social and environmental changes confronting Bali. He learned to become the observer, and via his art, a critic of his own Balinese culture.
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The pig is an icon of Balinese culture, yet for Upadana this animal serves as a metaphor for the Balinese people. In works such as his quirky yet comical sketches on paper with water color in his 2013 exhibition “GloBaliasi”, the pig is the embodiment of the dualistic nature of life confronting Balinese youths living between modern and traditional cultures. While in his sculptures featuring pigs, reclining in Balinese ceremonial bowls covered in chocolate, the pig becomes a humorous communicator of critical ideas. What Upadana suggests is that his people are too quick to enjoy the material spoils of globalization without enough consideration to increasing environmental, social and personal impacts and conflicts that money and modern development bring to Bali.
A decade in Yogya has made a definitive impact upon Upadana and helps to explain why he is capable of creating art of such a unique quality. Born 1983 in the small village of Saba, Blahbatuh, Gianyar, this experience for Upadana, who began exhibiting in 2002, has enabled him to achieve notable career results. For example, finalist of the 2011 BaCAA (Bandung Contemporary Art Award) and the “UOB Art Awards – Painting of the Year 2011”, and in 2013 again a finalist at the BaCAA, and finalist of the 2013 Trimata National Art Award, justifiably Upadana is regarded as one of the most promising young artists in Bali today.
During his time in Yogyakarta Upadana formed bonds with fellow art students that led to the birth of the art collective G-5. Consisting of five graduates of ISI Yogya, all born in Gianyar, who resided in the city for 10 years, G-5 has become, arguably, the most exciting group of emerging artists in Bali at the moment. Whether producing art on his own or along with G-5, Upadana’s talent is never far from the national spot light, continually catching the eye of critics, art lovers and importantly, collectors too....
PIZZA HUNTPizza – those big round circles of tastiness are
spreading all over Uud. It’s everybody’s favourite Italian food. Whether cooked in a big
wood fired oven, cooked out the back in who knows what – or whatever it takes - as long as it comes out steamingly fragrant and delicious! Cheese running meltingly down the sides, tomato paste glistening redly with a crispy crunchy crust – who can resist it. Here we try and test some of Ubud’s best pizza venues. Its all work, work, work, down here in Ubud.
Pizza Bagus – is one of the first, if not THE first Italians in town. Here the food is always good, the pizzas delicioso. They even have an air conditioned room popular with computer folk during the steamy daylight hours. The food is satisfying and the pasta is worth a try. Arrabiata, Pesto, Matriciana they are all here. Penne, spaghetti, raviolis, yum! Try their Pizza Bianca – four cheeses and topped with Parma Ham) - its delicious! And with the best deli in town, their prices always surprise you – pleasantly. So you can feel obliged to leave a good tip for the sweet girls who work there. While their wine list embraces less than other places, you can’t beat it for a good simple meal. And don’t forget to top up your cheese supply (and salamis) at their deli before you leave. Oh and they deliver!
Pizza Bagus – Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 978520
Mamma Mia! – On a curvy corner in Pengosekan, between Pizza Bagus and Café Marzono, Mamma Mia looks like a little Italian dinery. Maybe cos Tony the owner is Italian? He is there every night chatting to guests and making sure things are running well. And it seems to have caught the popular imagination. With the atmosphere of a
we hunt down the best pizza by the team
busy, cheap Italian Trattoria it looks welcoming and friendly. Unpretentious. Pizzas are fine, you can have a glass of cheap red, and enjoy the ambience. In fact you could almost imagine yourself to be in Italy!
They also deliver. Jl Raya Pengosekan, UbudT: 0361 9185056
Kebun – A Tuscan setting in the midst of Jl Hanoman, this chatty farmhouse styled eatery is the place for a relaxed lunch or an easy dinner. This charming place induces relaxation and the tables are always filled with conversing folks while they tuck into excellent Mediterranean style food and their delicious thin crust pizzas. Pizza and salad and a glass of specially selected wine. You won’t go wrong.
Kebun – 44 Jl Hanoman, Ubud 11.00am – 11.00pm T: 0361 780 3801
Trattoria – famous all over Bali and beyond, the Ubud version has moved to the neat little suburb of Nyuh Kuning. With a scaled down menu and wine list, it has become a user friendly, neighbourhood eatery, but with the same high quality Italian food. Try their spinach, toasted pine nuts and parmesan salad – it makes a great accompaniment to one of their delicious thin and crispy pizzas.
Take your family and enjoy the family Pizzas – as big as a football field. Caprese, Schiacciatina al Rosemarino, Margherita, Diavola, 4 Fromaggia E Ruccola – the list goes on.
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PIZZA FIESTA
Warung, it is just a three minute walk along a cobbled lane from Ubud’s main street. Il
Giardino – Jl Kajeng, UbudT: 0361 974 271, info@ilgiardino.
com
Cucina – Upmarket resort and spa, Uma has recently opened their own Italian restaurant, Cucina. With a low key, modernista setting, a luxurious lounge bar for pre dinner drinks, and an enticing menu, it goes without saying that their pizzas are amongst the best in town. The classic Margarita with fresh mozzarella and cherry tomatoes is good, or their pork and fennel, but what is surprisingly
good is their Spinach with Taleggio, fresh mozzarella
and pecorino, which disappeared faster than you
can say “mmm great pizza”!
Open 12 noon to 3.30pm and dinner from 6.30pm to 10.30pm.
T: (0361) 972 448. Jl Raya Sanggingan, opposite Naughty Nuris
Café Marzano – a newish pizzaria overlooking the rice fields on the busy Padang Tegal Road (just follow down Jl Hanoman and keep going) this eatery is decorated with iconic hand made cement tiles. Go to the back of the space and look over the verdant ricefields that used to be all of Pengosekan just a few years ago. They offer other Italian fare and it makes a nice change. Pizzas range from the Mascia with Mozzarella with ricotta and gorgonzola cheeses, eggplant and topped off with Parmesan to Robe with salami, mozzarella, ham, and Italian sausage – substantial. They also deliver.
Café Marzano – Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 402 1960
Trattoria – Jl Raya Nyuh Kunning just after the football field on the left. T: 0361 5520110
Il Giardino – a cosy garden ambience away from the traffic makes Il Giardino a perfect choice for a romantic evening pizza. Coupled with a great bottle of wine, a salad and a garden vista in the grounds where Dutch artist Han Snell once held court around his kingly bar, this is a place you need to try. Their wood fired pizza oven holds pride of place in the garden bar and thin and crispy is the style. Hidden away in Jl Kajeng, opposite Ary’s
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The common palm civet or luwak (Paraxorus
Hermaphroditus) is a cute, shy, solitary little animal. Resembling a cross between a dog and a cat, it has a dense, soft coat, short legs and a long tail. Nocturnal by nature, it wanders the forests of Asia in search of fruit, seeds, nectar and small animals to feed on. Once common, the luwak is now a rarity in the wild. It’s now intensively hunted and confined to small cages where it is force-fed coffee berries to produce the artificially rare and expensive kopi luwak.
The kopi luwak story began back in 1991 when former coffee trader Tony Wild brought a single kilogram of it into the UK and introduced it to the Western consumer as a novelty. Wild, currently a coffee consultant and author of Coffee: A Dark History, is now an outspoken critic of the kopi luwak trade.
While helping a BBC team investigate civet-coffee farms in Sumatra he witnessed widespread
animal abuse and launched a petition and social-media campaign, ‘Kopi Luwak: Cut the Crap,’ urging customers and companies to shun the product. (The BBC documentary can be seen at http://projectluwaksg.wordpress.com/2013/10/31/luwak-guardians-unite)
“When I introduced civet coffee to the UK it was a quirky novelty,” said Wild in a September 2013 article in the Guardian. “Now it's overpriced, industrialised, cruel and frequently inauthentic. For the most part, civet coffee is not harvested in the wild in limited quantities but mass produced by animals kept in appalling conditions.”
The kopi luwak industry claims the high price tag is justified because only about 500 kilograms is collected in the wild every year. Frankly, that’s a load of luwak poop. There are some ethical suppliers
kopi luwak CUT THE CRAPby ibu kat
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but it’s much easier to capture/buy the civets, keep them in small cages and feed them almost nothing but coffee berries. This practice started in Indonesia but other coffee producing countries were quick to follow. Wild estimates that the global production from Indonesia, India, Vietnam, China and the Philippines is at least 50 tonnes a year, possibly much more. One single Indonesian farm claims to produce 7,000 kg a year from 240 caged civets.
Teguh Pribadi, founder of the Indonesian Civet Coffee Association, admitted in an interview with TIME magazine that animal cruelty is rampant in the industry. “The luwaks aren’t treated well. Many farmers don’t understand how to keep the animals properly.” The association recommends the civets be kept in spacious cages for no longer than six months. But it’s more cost effective to keep the animals in smaller cages; when they die they are quickly replaced.
“We tell farmers to focus on the quality, not the quantity of the product,” Teguh says. “It’s better if they produce little but superior coffee, and don’t have dying civets.” But profit remains the bottom line.
Genuine Indonesian kopi luwak is collected from the droppings of the droppings collected by farm workers. “Being wild, hard to collect, variable in age and quality and very rare, kopi luwak is not a commercially viable crop, just an interesting coffee curiosity,” says Wild. “That's why I bought some. But nowadays, it is practically impossible to find genuine wild kopi luwak -- the only way to guarantee that would be to actually follow a luwak around all night yourself, one experienced coffee trader told me.” An investigation by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) Asia found fraud to be rife in the kopi luwak industry, with producers labeling coffee from caged civets with a ‘wild sourced’ or similar label. The BBC investigation revealed similar findings. There is probably very little wild-sourced kopi luwak around these days. It makes much more financial sense to farm it, and there’s no way of checking.
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I spoke with a European conservationist who’s helped in animal rescue centres in Bali, Java and Sulawesi. In Bali she visited various so-called ‘eco-tourism’ centres which are often included in cycling tours and other tourist activities. All of them had a few small cages of luwak which visitors are told are for display; the workers claim that most of the kopi luwak is collected in the wild. This is almost certainly untrue. When asked how long the civets are kept in captivity, the workers openly told her they are wild caught and never released.
Workers often disturb the sleeping nocturnal animals to feed them coffee cherries for visitors to photograph.
They may also be given some fruit in captivity but the bulk of the diet is coffee berries, so malnutrition is inevitable.
According to an officer from the TRAFFIC Conservation program, the trade in civets to make kopi luwak may constitute a significant threat to wild civet populations. The animals nest in tree holes and the babies are often collected from the nest before they are weaned; the mortality rate is unknown.
“I know there is a big kopi luwak farm and coffee plantation in Lampung but I’ve never heard of or seen any large-scale kopi luwak farming on Bali,” Drh. I Gede Nyoman Bayu Wirayudha, founder and director of the Friends of the National Park Foundation. “Of course, keeping luwak in these conditions does not meet animal welfare standards, especially since almost all of the luwak are wild caught. If businesses are using them commercially they should set up captive breeding programs and domesticate them.” Bayu told me that it made him very sceptical
to see a place with one or two civets on display and which is selling a lot of kopi luwak. This suggests that in Bali some of what is being sold to tourists as local kopi luwak is ordinary robusta in a fancy bag. Again, there’s no way of checking.
So kopi luwak is a hot potato in Indonesia, setting animal welfare against farmers’ income. Some Indonesians defend the industry, saying that it provides a livelihood for the country’s poor (although, of course, it’s the middlemen who really profit). Ideally, producers would comply with humane treatment standards and begin to breed civets in captivity instead of taking them from the wild. Until then, if you’re craving a cup of kopi luwak, please do your homework and make sure it’s ethically sourced.
Coffee Copper - Jl Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud, T: 0361 978631...
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This woman’s smiling face lights up the day as she carries holy waterfrom the sea during a Melasti ceremony at
Purnama Beach in Gianyar.
Spirit of Baliwords • image by ayu sekar
REFORMING HINDUISMAmong the elements of the main trunk, the reformed Hinduism of Hindu Dharma now embraces a monotheistic conception of the divine. It has reactivated for this purpose the old name of Sang Hyang Widdhi as the One God. All the other gods, either local or Indian-named are now clearly defined as manifestations (manifestasi) of this One All Powerful Principle. The ancestor’s cult itself is redefined within this framework: one does not automatically reincarnate among his kin, as the local tradition has it, but in a condition dependant on the quality of one’s deeds (karmapala) in one’s past life. With these changes, reformed Hinduism is increasingly doing away with the “polytheistic” ambiguities, (which tarnish its image in the eyes of Moslems and Christians, its main partners on the national stage.
Another important consequence of this reformation, sociological this time, is the revision of the caste system. The traditional caste system based on descent (wangsa)-- with its brahmana, satria, wesia and sudra castes - is now said to be a misinterpretation of the Vedas, according to which one’s real caste (warna) is based on merit and not heritage. Although the debate is still going on, one of the first consequences has been to eliminate all legal and formal status differences between the existing descent groups. Bali is democratizing. This in turn enables other groups, which have never known a caste system, to embrace Hinduism without qualms.
Such as it is viewed by the Council of Hindu Affairs (Parisadha Hindu Dharma), the modern reformation of Hinduism described above entails less an overhaul of the old tradition - either “popular” or “Shiwa-Buddha” , than its adaptation to the needs of a modern, multi-ethnic society, with its higher demands of rationality and its emphasis
on faith rather than ritual. Whatever changes take place, the unity of the religion is maintained, in all its variety. After all, isn’t the Indonesian national motto - “Bhinneka Tunggal Ika “ or “Different but One” derived from the Sutasoma, an Old-Javanese poem still sacred in Bali.
THE BALINESE CONCEPT OF TRUTHJudaism, Christianity and Islam, i.e. the religions of the Mediterranean world, are all organized around a few principles or dogmas consistent with each other and upheld by a prophetic or messianic revelation, transmitted in a relatively simple set of Holy Scriptures. Each group tends to view itself as the only holder of the truth, creating a chasm between believers and non-believers, chosen ones and heathens. Tolerance, in this context - and when it exists - is based either on the principle of coexistence and separation, as in Islam: “To you your own religion , and to me my own religion” (Koran, 109/6); or on the legal mediation of existing differences, as in “Western”, secular tolerance.
Nothing as such exists in Balinese tradition. Instead of being exclusive, tolerance is inclusive. It integrates differences within its own framework. This idea rests on a different conception of the truth. To the Balinese, the truth, although
Here we bring you the third part of Dr Jean Couteau’s history of Balinese religion – the basis of all Balinese life
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by jean couteau
Om Suastiastu
AN INTRODUCTION TO BALINESE RELIGION PART 3
it may exist, is not knowable. This is best formulated in a parable of the text Wrespati Tatwa – “There was a group of blind men,” it says, “who wanted to know what an elephant was like”. After insisting, they managed to get an opportunity to touch the elephant. What each touched, though, was a different part of the elephant. The first one touched the head and mistook it for a jar. The second touched the ear, but thought it to be a fan; the third mistook the tusk for a piece of polished wood; the fourth one mistook the trunk for a snake, the fifth the belly for a mountain, the sixth the tail for an eel, and the last one mistook the elephant’s foot for a drum. In other words, whatever they touched, they continued on their way not knowing anything of the body of the elephant as well as of its shape, its character nor its reaction, because they were blind.” This classic parable, also found in Buddhism, teaches an open brand of skepticism. As human beings, we are blind. Whatever the truth is, and whatever the parts of the truth we experience, we cannot have access to the wholeness of it. We always mistake it for what it is not. Hence the variability of the Holy books: “Eka wakya, bhinna sruti “: The word of God is one, but the scriptures are many.”
BALINESE SYNCRETISM This tolerance finds its primary expression in Balinese religion itself. As seen above, this religion is a blending of indigenous and Indian-derived elements, the first providing most of the ritual aspects and the second the philosophical interpretation. Balinese names of gods thus coexist with Indian ones. The Balinese name for deity, hyang, is used in the title of every god - Sang Hyang. As for the All-Encompassing God, the temple priests may call Him by the indigenous name of Sang Hyang Embang (the Void) or Sang Hyang Tuduh (Fate) while the brahmana priest will prefer the Indian-connoted Sang Hyang Parama Siwa or Sang Hyang Wisesa. The Indian side of the tradition is itself the result of the historical blending of Buddhist and Shivaite elements. One of the names given to God is Shiwa-Buddha. It blends the complementary opposites: Shiwa is “violence and action”; Buddha is “compassion and inaction”. There is a system of correspondence
between the gods of Hindu Shivaism and the Dyana Buddhas of Mahayana Buddhism. The emphasis is on their similarity: “The essence of Shiwa and Buddha is the same. They are different while being one, as the truth cannot be two (Jinatma kalawan Siwatma tunggal, bhinneka tunggal ika tan ana dharma mangrwa.) It is this quotation from the Old-Javanese Sutasoma poem which have given its motto to the Indonesian nation, already mentioned above - Bhinneka Tunggal Ika or different but one.
There is such a “diffusion” of concepts of God and the godly which is the apparent opposite of the Mediterranean concept where God is the contraction of everything into an Absolute Oneness.
This relativism applies to sociological aspects of religion as well. For all practical purposes, religion in Bali is expected to vary according to three principles: desa –( place) kala (time) and patra (circumstance). There are therefore no attempts at religious uniformity. All villages have their own specific traditions which they are particularly proud of. It is the difference between villages and traditions which is the condition of their ultimate unity.
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om!...
BALINESE RELIGION PART 3
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Dieticians and doctors are fairly sure that sugar in excess is not good for you. Tooth decay did not exist
amongst native tribes before western civilization took over. Nor did obesity, diabetes, imbalanced
cholesterol and the list goes on. We could now continue to debate the effects of the high sugar, low fibre modern western diet. But you’ve probably read
these articles. It’s almost getting a bit old, despite its incredible relevance in an age where all these so
called ‘chronic’ or ‘lifestyle’ diseases are still on the rise. So let’s try to take a different angle.
What’s worse for your health? Eating a sweet, sugary cookie, or guilty thoughts about
eating a sweet, sugary cookie?
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PALATABLE PLEASURE
by chef simon • images windia
Fact. Chronic diseases are on the rise, predominately in developed nations.
Fact. Modern drugs and hospital treatments are to an extent able to deal with the symptoms but struggle to address the exact cause of these diseases.
Fact. Preventative medicine is going to be absolutely vital in the future if we are to decrease our dependence on pharmaceutical drugs and professional medical care.
How often do we witness people taking a pill just because the doctor ordered it? What does this healing business mean and who going to do the hard work? Is any practitioner able to heal another person in the first place? Or can a doctor, therapist or 3th generation shaman only support another being in their own healing process, at very best?
How detached have we become from our own health? Maybe we are just so caught up in this journey of becoming happy, and rich and healthy that we just don’t have time to
listen to ourselves, that’s if we even remember who that ‘self ’ is. In the unfortunate case that we do get sick we simply throw ourselves at the mercy of a GP or surgeon and scream ‘heal me doctor!’
So what can we do to support our health? Well you’ve probably read these articles as well.
Eat your greens. 2.0. New Age style. Cut out wheat unless you shoot straight wheat grass juice shots. Chocolate must now be raw. Gggrrrr. Don’t have a cacao tree out the back of your house? No worries. Find the trendiest inner city café and they are sure to be retailing fine raw chocolate at about $19 a bar. Lasagna for dinner? Sure. Raw! With raw cashew cheese. And raw dessert too. Raw cheesecake. Raw! Long Live Raw!
Of course you need to practice yoga, preferably ashtanga, hatha, kundalini but if you are a truly self respecting health hero you go for no less than Bikram yoga. Spend 2 hours of raw stretching and breathing at a body temperature heated room, taking sweating to a whole new level. Don’t worry, your bright green lulu lemon shorts will have a state of the art body juice reservoir build in, designed for the most brutal bikram bender.
You meditate, it’s so hot these days, all the famous people do it. Ever tried meditating in the sand dunes so hard that you just levitate your way to the ocean, have all the surfers applaud you? Or do what the real sick people do. Take your work stress up to the point that you are about to burn out, than lock yourself into a super conservative Buddhist monastery
Cookies for Health
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for 21 day vippassana ‘holiday’ which involves no talking, booze or sex and a good long, hard stare at your innermost ugliness. Come home like a new person. That’s if you survive it.
Sarcasm aside, there’s a common denominator in the above cases. We are trying to find a way to relief the stress caused by our ever busy minds trough using this very busy mind. Of course taking time out to stretch, breath and eating vibrant food must be good for us. But how do we surpass our conditioned beliefs and attitudes about what good health needs to find that place deep in our inner being that is yearning for something special and specific? This catch 22 may be the very reason why people tend to give up so soon after initiating a radical life change. Let’s assume that there are two major categories that people tend to tackle on their journey to greater wellness. Visualize a triangle with
perfect well being at the top. On the left side is diet and lifestyle which we can improve by choosing greater foods as well as suitable physical exercise. On the right side is mental, emotional and spiritual wellness. The more elusive of the 2, it involves relationships, acceptance of past, trust in the future and a great relationship with the here and now. It’s improved by regular relaxation, spiritual practice and joyful activities. It can be radically changed by deep meditation journeys, holistic counseling and spiritual healing. These and many more aspects of wellness is what people may refer to when they say they are ‘working on themselves’ or ‘working on their stuff’.
It’s common, now more than ever before for people to just be so full, so overwhelmed and so exhausted that they just don’t know where to start. It’s good to know these two sides of the triangle. Trust that by climbing one side, one step at a time, the other side automatically becomes less steep. You may decide to start healing your past, face your fears or quiet your mind to find that all of a sudden you have this spontaneous motivation to go for long walks or drink these intense and nourishing green smoothies. Flow with that. Enjoy the journey because this is what you came here for. This is preventative medicine. Science is showing today what ancient cultures have always known and considered. Thoughts and attitudes create worlds and we as humans are capable to shape our very own reality to whatever extend we allow ourselves. The key may be just in that, allowing.
Simon Jongenotter is a wholefoods chef and energetic healing practitioner. He is in love with life as a permanent resident at Bali Silent Retreat where he finds purpose in bringing together the arts of wholesome cooking and healing.....
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Indian Delites, a cornerstone of Ubud’s ethnic culinary cooking has moved! It’s not lost! From the upper level terrace, enjoy views of the Camphuan Ridge
where grazing cows mingle with passing hikers. The hues of green on the steep slopes are mesmerizing any time of day, rain or shine.
While located opposite Bintang Supermarket, you won’t find many of their ingredients. Their extensive range of mostly North Indian dishes are imported from Indian spice stores in India, Singapore and Jakarta. This Indian family concern has five busy restaurants in Bali, so authenticity is key. They are also one of the few certified halal kitchens in Ubud, with respect to India’s and Indonesia’s multi-cultural diversity. Their seasoned chefs are sensitive to individual taste buds, so their perfectly seasoned dishes can be ordered from spicey hot to ordinaire.
Menu choices can be overwhelming, but the clear English descriptions will assist first-timers and connoisseurs venturing away from routine favorites. Whatever the final food decision, most patrons desire a continuous flow of chai tea, something that is as much a part of Indian culture as is a cuppa for the British. Indian Delites still uses a secret family formula of aromatic Indian herbs and spices not found in contemporary cafes with quite broad chai interpretations.
Tandoori dishes at both Indian and diversified restaurants are popular these days, but only a genuine tandoor oven with its super high heat produces Authenticity. Must try tandoor dishes include the array of breads with Naan as the perennial favorite. Whether cooked with garlic, butter or plain they are always good. Check out the whole wheat Paratha layered with butter, topped with chili or stuffed with Indian delights.
In contrast to the robust Paratha, try the amazingly thin ‘handkerchief ’ bread called Roomali Roti.
The tandoor oven also produces vegetarian, seafood and meat dishes, including perennial favorites such as tikka and kebabs. Can’t decide? Try their dhaba platter, the equivalent of a western mixed grill. Their freshly made paneer, an unsalted white cheese dating back to ancient India, is also prepared masala style in the tandoor.
Their south Indian dishes such as the Marsala dosai are always worth exploring. An unusual dessert is Kulfi. It is Indian ice cream, although it is deliciously denser and creamier. The almond and pistachios in their homemade servings rarely fails to please.
With so much varied Indian delites, it is best enjoyed dining family style so no one misses out on the myriad taste sensations. For individuals or couples, order the thali made up of small portions of basic items, a style of eating still prevalent throughout Southern Asia. For a quick takeaway follow the newest New York food craze with a kati roll, an original Indian street food of Indian flatbread filled with a choice of spicy stuffings. Ever so satisfyingly easy to eat on the run.
Indian Delites: (0361) 7444 222 for reservations or deliveries....
Indian Delites in Sangginganby lisa • images ayu sekar
Every day in the late afternoon, a remarkable, natural phenomenon occurs in the tiny
village of Petulu (five kilometres north of Ubud), as thousands of white herons fly in to roost for the night.
It’s a spectacular sight as the huge flocks of birds arrive in a steady throng, filling the sky, flying in formation, wheeling, drifting, sailing and finally landing in the tall palms and old bunut (fig) trees,
where they squabble over prime perches, turning the tree tops white like snow and splattering the roadsides with their droppings. Village tradition dictates that the herons, which are considered
The Herons of Petuluby charlie cambell • images gsb collection
HERITAGE
sacred, may not be disturbed while they roost. Only if they fall to earth or become caught in a tree may they be captured and turned into a delectable treat wrapped in a banana leaf. Visitors, meanwhile, can sit at a simple viewing platform beside the rice fields and drink cold Bintang beers or soft drinks while they watch the roosting activities. Such a predictable gathering of these large and beautiful birds is a spectacle not to be missed. In the morning the herons will fly off again in search of food.
Three species of herons roost at Petulu: the Little Egrets, the Cattle Egrets and the Javan Pond Herons. They are known collectively by the local people as ‘Kokokan’ – and their
numbers have been estimated to total up to 20,000. The nesting period is usually around October and November and there is a certain order in how these three species build their nests in the trees, with the largest birds at the top and the smallest at the bottom. By February and March the chicks will have become fledglings and have started to fly.
The villagers of Petulu believe that the herons are manifestations of the souls of the Balinese who were killed – and buried without due rites – during the anticommunist massacre in Indonesia in 1965/66. In Bali alone, 100,000 people were killed within two weeks. After the atrocities, the surviving residents of Petulu held an elaborate cleansing ceremony in the village as a remembrance for the murdered, and to safeguard the survivors, petitioning for protection and blessings. Less than one month after the ceremony the herons mysteriously arrived in the village for the first time in history, they had never been seen before in Petulu.
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The little egrets and the cattle egrets arrived first and the Javan pond herons followed a year later. The villagers considered them as a blessing from God and then held a ceremony of welcome for the birds. During the ceremony, the priest fell into a trance and learned that the herons were there to guard and protect the village and the crops from pests, disease and negative events. At first, the villagers captured some of the herons for food and as breeding stock – but more than 50 people who did so were visited by scary spirits, and therefore quickly released the birds. It is strange that they have only ever occupied the trees on the stretch of road, which leads to the temple – and in front of the houses. They never go behind the houses,
an area which in Hindu tradition is reserved for things less sacred or unclean.
The villagers of Petulu still pay homage to the birds twice a year on Saniscara Kliwon Landep by holding a special ceremony for them called ‘Memendak Kokokan’ in which they express their gratitude for being trusted as the place that the birds have chosen to live and lay their eggs. The villagers say that since the arrival of the herons, the village has enjoyed prosperity and has become a tourist attraction. There is a post with a ‘Donations Box’ at the entrance to the village for visitors to contribute to its further prosperity. The local people also claim that the birds disappeared from the village not long before the 2002 Bali bombings, and
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Cattle Egrets
The short, thick-necked Cattle Egret spends most of its time in fields foraging at the feet of grazing cattle, head bobbing with each step, or riding on the backs of the cows to pick at ticks; this stocky white heron has mainly white plumage, a yellow bill and greyish-yellow legs. During the breeding season, adults develop orange-buff plumes on the back, breast and crown. They fly with their necks folded in an S-shape.
Javan Pond Herons
Most commonly seen and associated with rice fields, the Javan pond heron is identified by its pale, golden yellow and brown head, crest feathers and neck, cinnamon breast, and black back. It flies to roost in groups of twos or threes with slow, short wing beats, and feeds primarily by standing motionless, usually solitary, in a low crouched posture with its head retracted.
Getting there:
From the traffic lights at the statue in north Peliatan just before the west entrance to Ubud, continue north on the main road to Tegallalang and Tampaksiring, which is lined with hundreds of shops selling woodcarvings, souvenirs, household wares and crafts. After four kilometres, look out for the sign on the left (west) to Petulu, which is about two kilometres, up a gradually rising narrow country road.
Alternatively, go north out of Ubud on Jalan Suweta towards Junjungan and the turn off to Petulu is on the other side of the village on the right.
The birds arrive home between 5pm and sunset....
similar incidents have occurred several other times, suggesting that the disappearance is a portent of something bad. After the 2002 portent, the villagers attempted to ‘call’ the flock by holding a ritual at the temple and a week later thousands of birds flew back to the village.
Little Egrets
The Little Egrets are the graceful, white birds of wet rice fields; this small heron has a white body, black legs, yellow feet, and fluffy snowy plumes on its crest and neck during the breeding season. Generally they are solitary and silent birds; however they do make harsh alarm calls if disturbed at their roost sites.
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THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA
WORLD MAP
UBUD
ISLAND OF BALI
UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.
Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers.
Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!...
ubud cultural dance performanceslegong of mahabrata ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance padang tegal kaja-open stage 7.00 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] ubud main road-oka kartini 8.00 pmlegong dance arma-open stage 7.30 pmjanger dance ubud water palace-open stage 7.30 pmjegog [bamboo gamelan] bentuyung village 7.00 pmkecak fire & trance dance batu karu temple-open stage 7.30 pm
legong dances ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmbarong & keris dance wantilan padang tegal kelod 7.00 pmkecak ramayana & fire dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmlegong telek arma-open stage 7.30 pmwomen performance bale banjar ubud kelod 7.30 pm
ramayana ballet ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod 7.30 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] kertha accommodation-monkey forest st 8.00 pmlegong dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmtrance culture bale banjar ubud kelod 7.30 pm
legong & barong dance ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmmask dance [topeng jimat] arma-open stage 7.00 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] ubud main road-oka kartini 8.00 pmlegong dance yamasari stage-peliatan open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance padang tegal kaja-open stage 7.00 pmjegog [bamboo gamelan] pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.00 pm
kecak [monkey chant dance] puri agung peliatan 7.30 pmlegong dance jaba pura desa kutuh 7.30 pmthe barong & keris dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod 7.30 pmwayang wong dance bale banjar ubud kelod 7.30 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] pondok bambu-monkey forest st 7.30 pm
barong dance ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmlegong dance balerung stage peliatan 7.30 pmkecak and fire dance pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod 7.00 pmwayang kulit [shadow puppet] ubud main road-oka kartini 8.00 pmjegog [bamboo gamelan] bentuyung village 7.00 pmbarong & keris dance arma-open stage 5.30 pm
legong dance ubud palace-open stage 7.30 pmlegong dance ubud water palace 7.30 pmfrog dance bale banjar ubud kelod 7.00 pmlegong dance pura dalem ubud-open stage 7.30 pmkecak fire & trance dance pura dalem taman kaja-open stage 7.30 pmwayang wong arma-open stage 7.00 pm
every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance pura desa batuan-open stage 7.00 pm
sat
frith
uw
edtu
em
onsu
n
66 UbudLife
pura protocoltips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples
As visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!
The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.
When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.
Women who are menstruating must wait outside.
Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.
If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.
Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself....
TIPS
UbudLife 67
BALI MAPLEGEND: Provincial capital Town Mountain LakePlaces of interest Village Temple Airport/Airstrip Harbour Surfing spotsDiving spots
50 10 15 20 25 35 40 45 50 km30
Jimbaran Bay
Legian Beach
San
urBe
ac
h
Kuta Beach
Canggu Beach
Nusa
Dua
Bea
ch
Medewi Beach
Balian BeachSoka Beach
TulambenB
ay
Amuk Bay
Candidasa Beach
Lo
vina Beach
L O M B O K S T R A I T
BA
LI
ST
RA
I T
B A L I S E A
BA
DU
NG
S T R A I T
I N D O NE S
I AN
OC
EA
N
Tegallalang
Sedihing
Pemuteran Reef Building
BiahaMimpang
Tepekong
Gili Selang
Jemeluk WallBunutan Reef
BuyukSD
Manta Point
Manta Point
Malibu
Secret Bay Puri Jati [muck-diving]
Blue Corner
Crystal Bay
LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP
Kubutambahan
Sanda
Seminyak
BENOA HARBOUR
Taro
Kertakawat
Bubunan
Labuhan Haji
Pujungan
Buruan
Jemeluk
BucuBangbang
Padpadan
Delod Berawah
Sumbersari
PangkungdedariMelaya
Candikusuma
Banyubiru
Cupel
Munduk
Bayun
Jagaraga
Pemaron
Kaliasem
BuktiPacung
JulahBondalem
Sambirenteng
Tembok
Sekardadi
Kayubihi
Kayuambua
Sulahan
Buahan
Sengkidu
Tihingan
YehsumbulPesinggahan
Bajera
Selemadeg
Bantas
Kengetan
Kerobokan
Batubelig
MuncanAngantaka
Banyupoh
Lalanglinggah
Senganan
SembungTimbrah
Tegalasih
Petitenget
Penulisan
Kedisan
Subagan
Pandakgede
Sumberkima
Labuhan lalang
Tibubiyu
Mt. Agung3142
Pecatu
UngasanSawangan
KampialBualu
Mumbul
Kedonganan
Tuban
Tanjung Benoa
GelogorcarikPegok
Pesanggaran Blanjong
Renon
Padanggalak
SemawangBatujimbar
SindhuSanglah
Pengubengan
Legian
BrawaUmalas
Muding
Ubung
Canggu
BerabanYeh Gangga
Pejaten
KediriGubugBeraban
Kerambitan
Soka
AntosariSuraberata
Ngis
Timpag
Samsam
Blayu
Wanasari
Marga
Batusari
Denkayu
Sibang
Blahkiuh
Abiansemal
Sempidi
Darmasaba
Sibang
Tohpati
Sumerta
Lumintang
Singapadu
Batuan
Sakah
Lebih
BlahbatuhKemenuh
Bone
SidanKutri
Petulu
Bunutan
Bongkasa
Peliatan
Kawan
Petak
Akah
Selat
Sidemen
Talibeng
Mambal
Silakarang
MENJANGAN ISLAND
CekikSumberkelampok
Klatakan Blimbingsari
Airanakan
Perancak
Munduk
Yehkuning
Mendoyo
Batuagung
Yehbuah
BanyuwedangGoris Pulaki
MelantingGondol
PenyabanganMusi Gerokgak
Celukan BawangTegallenga
Kalisada
PengastulanSeririt
Ringdikit
Dencarik
Sidetapa
Cempaga
MayongBestalaPancoran
Temukus
Tigawasa
Kalibukbuk
AnturanSukasada
Panji
Banyuning
Pegayaman
Gitgit
Yehketipat
Bila
TamblangTegal
Bakungan
Bungkulan
Busungbiu
Subuk
Pupuan
Tista Batungsel
Belimbing
Munduk
Gobleg
Asah Gobleg
Tamblingan
Asahpanji
Candi Kuning
Pancasari
Kembangmerta
Pelaga
Catur
Penginyahan
Gentah
Bantang
Les
Tianyar
Muntidesa
Baturinggit
Culik Amed
Seraya
Jasri
Bugbug
Asak
Bebandem
Sibetan
Buitan
AbabiAbang
Manggis
Ulakan
GelgelKamasan
Dawan
TembukuIseh
Sindu
Selat
Sidakarya
Muncan
Rendang
SingarataMenanga
BuyanPempatan
Seribatu
PengotanPenyebah
Batur
Penulisan
Penelokan
NungkungPekaranganBaturiti
Pacung
Soka
ApuanAngantiga
Petang
Sandakan
Luwus
Jatiluwih
BabahanWongaya
Ampadan
PitraPenebel
Perean
Kuwum
Payangan
BukitCeking
NGURAH RAIINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
SERANGAN ISLAND
SebatuPujung
Puhu
LEMBONGAN ISLAND
CENINGAN ISLAND
NUSA PENIDA
Jungutbatu
Lembongan ToyapakehPed
TelagaKutampi
SampalanSentalkangin
MetakihGelagah
BayuhPonjok
Batukandik
Batumandeg PejukutanAmbenganPendem
Pelilit
TangladSoyorBungkit
Tabuanan RamoanSekartaji
Anta
SemayaSuana
Pidada
AsahdurenManggissari
PasebanSaren
Mt. Seraya1175
Mt. Batur1717
Mt. Abang2153
Mt. Catur2096
Mt. Batukaru2276
Mt. Merbuk1386
Mt. Mesehe1344
Mt. Musi1224
Jimbaran
Tejakula
Yehembang
Penuktukan
KubuRubaya
Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali) - Gili Islands (Lombok)
DENPASAR
TABANANGIANYAR
BANGLI
NEGARA
Taman Nasional Bali Barat(West Bali National Park)
SINGARAJA
AMLAPURA
KLUNGKUNG
Ferryto
Nusa
Penida
Ferry Padangbai (Bali) - Lembar (Lombok)
Batukaru
Padangbai
Gilimanuk
Banjar
Lake Bratan
Mas
Trunyan
Kuta
Lovina
Alas Kedaton
Candidasa
Lake Batur
Batubulan
Uluwatu
Sanur
Sangeh
Mengwi
Celuk
Sukawati
BeduluUBUD
Pemuteran
Sangsit Air Sanih
Lake TamblinganLake Buyan
Bedugul
Ujung
Tenganan
Tirta Gangga
Kusamba
Besakih
Kintamani
Tampaksiring
Nusa Dua
Tanah Lot
Tulamben
Sental
Japanese WreckBunutan
Goa Lawah
Silayukti
Lempuyang
Beji
Jasri
Keramas
Sanur
Serangan
GegerSuluban
Padang Padang
Bingin
Kuta
Canggu
Balian Beach
Medewi
Rambutsiwi
Ferry ChannelBlue LagoonTanjung SariTanjung Jepun
Shipwreck
Ferry to Java
Batuabah
BALI MAPLEGEND: Provincial capital Town Mountain LakePlaces of interest Village Temple Airport/Airstrip Harbour Surfing spotsDiving spots
50 10 15 20 25 35 40 45 50 km30
Jimbaran Bay
Legian Beach
San
urBe
ac
h
Kuta Beach
Canggu Beach
Nusa
Dua
Bea
ch
Medewi Beach
Balian BeachSoka Beach
TulambenB
ay
Amuk Bay
Candidasa Beach
Lo
vina Beach
L O M B O K S T R A I T
BA
LI
ST
RA
I T
B A L I S E A
BA
DU
NG
S T R A I T
I N D O NE S
I AN
OC
EA
N
Tegallalang
Sedihing
Pemuteran Reef Building
BiahaMimpang
Tepekong
Gili Selang
Jemeluk WallBunutan Reef
BuyukSD
Manta Point
Manta Point
Malibu
Secret Bay Puri Jati [muck-diving]
Blue Corner
Crystal Bay
LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP
Kubutambahan
Sanda
Seminyak
BENOA HARBOUR
Taro
Kertakawat
Bubunan
Labuhan Haji
Pujungan
Buruan
Jemeluk
BucuBangbang
Padpadan
Delod Berawah
Sumbersari
PangkungdedariMelaya
Candikusuma
Banyubiru
Cupel
Munduk
Bayun
Jagaraga
Pemaron
Kaliasem
BuktiPacung
JulahBondalem
Sambirenteng
Tembok
Sekardadi
Kayubihi
Kayuambua
Sulahan
Buahan
Sengkidu
Tihingan
YehsumbulPesinggahan
Bajera
Selemadeg
Bantas
Kengetan
Kerobokan
Batubelig
MuncanAngantaka
Banyupoh
Lalanglinggah
Senganan
SembungTimbrah
Tegalasih
Petitenget
Penulisan
Kedisan
Subagan
Pandakgede
Sumberkima
Labuhan lalang
Tibubiyu
Mt. Agung3142
Pecatu
UngasanSawangan
KampialBualu
Mumbul
Kedonganan
Tuban
Tanjung Benoa
GelogorcarikPegok
Pesanggaran Blanjong
Renon
Padanggalak
SemawangBatujimbar
SindhuSanglah
Pengubengan
Legian
BrawaUmalas
Muding
Ubung
Canggu
BerabanYeh Gangga
Pejaten
KediriGubugBeraban
Kerambitan
Soka
AntosariSuraberata
Ngis
Timpag
Samsam
Blayu
Wanasari
Marga
Batusari
Denkayu
Sibang
Blahkiuh
Abiansemal
Sempidi
Darmasaba
Sibang
Tohpati
Sumerta
Lumintang
Singapadu
Batuan
Sakah
Lebih
BlahbatuhKemenuh
Bone
SidanKutri
Petulu
Bunutan
Bongkasa
Peliatan
Kawan
Petak
Akah
Selat
Sidemen
Talibeng
Mambal
Silakarang
MENJANGAN ISLAND
CekikSumberkelampok
Klatakan Blimbingsari
Airanakan
Perancak
Munduk
Yehkuning
Mendoyo
Batuagung
Yehbuah
BanyuwedangGoris Pulaki
MelantingGondol
PenyabanganMusi Gerokgak
Celukan BawangTegallenga
Kalisada
PengastulanSeririt
Ringdikit
Dencarik
Sidetapa
Cempaga
MayongBestalaPancoran
Temukus
Tigawasa
Kalibukbuk
AnturanSukasada
Panji
Banyuning
Pegayaman
Gitgit
Yehketipat
Bila
TamblangTegal
Bakungan
Bungkulan
Busungbiu
Subuk
Pupuan
Tista Batungsel
Belimbing
Munduk
Gobleg
Asah Gobleg
Tamblingan
Asahpanji
Candi Kuning
Pancasari
Kembangmerta
Pelaga
Catur
Penginyahan
Gentah
Bantang
Les
Tianyar
Muntidesa
Baturinggit
Culik Amed
Seraya
Jasri
Bugbug
Asak
Bebandem
Sibetan
Buitan
AbabiAbang
Manggis
Ulakan
GelgelKamasan
Dawan
TembukuIseh
Sindu
Selat
Sidakarya
Muncan
Rendang
SingarataMenanga
BuyanPempatan
Seribatu
PengotanPenyebah
Batur
Penulisan
Penelokan
NungkungPekaranganBaturiti
Pacung
Soka
ApuanAngantiga
Petang
Sandakan
Luwus
Jatiluwih
BabahanWongaya
Ampadan
PitraPenebel
Perean
Kuwum
Payangan
BukitCeking
NGURAH RAIINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
SERANGAN ISLAND
SebatuPujung
Puhu
LEMBONGAN ISLAND
CENINGAN ISLAND
NUSA PENIDA
Jungutbatu
Lembongan ToyapakehPed
TelagaKutampi
SampalanSentalkangin
MetakihGelagah
BayuhPonjok
Batukandik
Batumandeg PejukutanAmbenganPendem
Pelilit
TangladSoyorBungkit
Tabuanan RamoanSekartaji
Anta
SemayaSuana
Pidada
AsahdurenManggissari
PasebanSaren
Mt. Seraya1175
Mt. Batur1717
Mt. Abang2153
Mt. Catur2096
Mt. Batukaru2276
Mt. Merbuk1386
Mt. Mesehe1344
Mt. Musi1224
Jimbaran
Tejakula
Yehembang
Penuktukan
KubuRubaya
Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali) - Gili Islands (Lombok)
DENPASAR
TABANANGIANYAR
BANGLI
NEGARA
Taman Nasional Bali Barat(West Bali National Park)
SINGARAJA
AMLAPURA
KLUNGKUNG
Ferryto
Nusa
Penida
Ferry Padangbai (Bali) - Lembar (Lombok)
Batukaru
Padangbai
Gilimanuk
Banjar
Lake Bratan
Mas
Trunyan
Kuta
Lovina
Alas Kedaton
Candidasa
Lake Batur
Batubulan
Uluwatu
Sanur
Sangeh
Mengwi
Celuk
Sukawati
BeduluUBUD
Pemuteran
Sangsit Air Sanih
Lake TamblinganLake Buyan
Bedugul
Ujung
Tenganan
Tirta Gangga
Kusamba
Besakih
Kintamani
Tampaksiring
Nusa Dua
Tanah Lot
Tulamben
Sental
Japanese WreckBunutan
Goa Lawah
Silayukti
Lempuyang
Beji
Jasri
Keramas
Sanur
Serangan
GegerSuluban
Padang Padang
Bingin
Kuta
Canggu
Balian Beach
Medewi
Rambutsiwi
Ferry ChannelBlue LagoonTanjung SariTanjung Jepun
Shipwreck
Ferry to Java
Batuabah
PURI WIRATADive Resort & Spa
Le 48
Tirta Ayu Hotel &Restaurant
70 UbudLife
BEACH-FRONT BLISS AT THE KAMPUNG, AMEDby jenny b • images ayu sekar
UbudLife 71
SLEEPOVERS
The freshly caught fish glistened in the early evening shadows. The fisherman beamed as we handed over the money,
his white toothed smile breaking the surface of his weather-worn face. In next to no time, the half-dozen ocean-fresh mackerel were sizzling on the barbecue, releasing their aroma to sharpen our appetite for another delicious dinner.
Earlier that evening, we had sat entranced as the mirror-calm sea burnished crimson with the setting sun, throwing into silhouette the dhow-like sails of the jukung returning with their evening catch. Snatches of animated chat and kretek smoke drifted ashore with the breeze as the fishermen hauled their outriggers onto the narrow strip of pebble beach beyond our pool. We stirred ourselves from our poolside lethargy to peer into the boat less than a metre away.
“Mau ikan?” he had said, knocking standard take-aways right out of the water.
And so another magical day at The Kampung drew to a close.
We’ve been coming to Amed for years, drawn by the chilled vibe and calm seas of this string of villages on Bali’s north-eastern shore. Over the decade we have seen many changes. Where once we would tire easily of the simple food served at a smattering of warungs, now there are a few smart restaurants serving upscale Balinese food and a menu of international dishes in designer-chic surroundings. The choice of accommodation has grown too, with a few private villas and fancier boutique hotels in Bunutan and beyond, while low-key homestays for budget travelers can be found in the Amed strip, a few kilometres to the north.
Outstripping everything in both charm and comfort is The Kampung.
Resting right on the beach with 180-degree sea vistas, The Kampung offers a unique experience for visitors to Bali. Though only completed in 2011, it’s very much an old soul. Instead of the ubiquitous white-washed concrete boxes slowly but inexorably eating up the ricefields across the island, the owner has chosen to celebrate Indonesia’s architectural heritage with a collection of antique teakwood homes rescued from Java and Sulawesi and repurposed to create the three-bedroom Kampung Limas and the two-bedroom Kampung Jambi – each with its own beach-front swimming pool. Each bedroom occupies its own joglo. Full of character and soaked in history, their cool teakwood interiors with traditional four-column core offer a soothing respite from the glare of the sun. Oriental carpets and kilims
72 UbudLife
UbudLife 73
provide splashes of colour on burnished teakwood floors. Romantic canopied beds draped in four-poster-style mosquito netting promise dream-filled sleep with deep mattresses, plumped up pillows and luxury cotton bed-linen. Each bedroom has its own courtyard bathroom with vocanic rock basin and garden shower, and a breezy sea-facing verandah – perfect for afternoon siestas.
On arrival at Kampung Limas, smiling sarong-clad staff ushered us into the fabulous open-sided limasan living pavilion and served us freshly squeezed juice and ice-cold towels while Wayan briefed us on the facilities and we admired the fabulous sea vista. The three comfortably cushioned daybeds saw a lot of supine activity over the next few days, and the solid teakwood table was the focus for convivial meals prepared by the accomplished cook, Made.
Bordered by rice fields and the sea, with a backdrop of mountains, The Kampung –which means village in the Indonesian language – offers an authentic slice of unspoilt coastal life. Staying there, we could almost feel part of a rhythm that has little changed over the centuries. We admired the owner’s fascinating collection of antique furniture, artifacts and curios that embellish every room. From the second storey meditation bale we glimpsed farmers tending their padi fields and, rising with the sun, we witnessed the return of Amed’s fishing fleet with their haul of mackerel, mahi mahi and bonito tuna. We snorkeled the calm, crystal-clear waters off the beach and basked on the sun-beds by the free-form pool. Had we the energy, we could have paddled offshore in the Kampung’s sea kayak or peddled the three mountain bikes along the coast-hugging lanes – but the lure of a massage on the verandah won us over.
Feeling thoroughly lazy, we only left the comfort and privacy of our ocean home to saunter down the road to Café Harmony. There, the delightful owner and passionate foodie Anis whips up divine Balinese food using produce from her organic garden. Don’t miss her fresh tuna pepes, cooked in banana leaves and served with a quartet of exquisitely flavoured home-cooked sambals. (For western food with a Mediterranean focus, The Grill is a 15-minute walk away.)
Life is picture-perfect at The Kampung. The two-bedroom Kampung Jambi, with its Toraja-style alang-alang thatched living pavilion reached by stepping stones across a lotus pond, will appeal to the romantically inclined. Families will relish the facilities of Kampung Lima where two of the bedrooms have additional four-poster daybeds for kids, and there’s a small playground. And both Jambi and Lima can be rented together for a few families or larger groups of a dozen friends.
Amed is a two-and-a-half hour drive from Ubud. Once you’re clear of the congested roads around Gianyar and Klungkung, you can either follow the coastal road past Candi Dasa (where stopping for a seafood lunch at Sari Baruna, just west of Goa Lawah has become a family tradition), or head north to Sideman and take the scenic cross-country route with spectacular views of Gunung Agung. North of Amlapura, the main road is plain sailing (as long as you don’t have the misfortune of crawling behind belching lorries), taking you across several mountain ranges before finally descending to the rice fields that roll right down to the water’s edge.
To book The Kampung, visit www.thekampung.com or email [email protected]....
BALI
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SEP
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2014
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the other world of
KINTAMANIby jill alexandre • images ayu sekar
OUT OF TOWN
Sitting at the top of the world, Kintamani is one of Bali’s most iconic destinations. Clear air
and amazing views make it a great place to visit whether for a day or a week.
An hour from Ubud and a world away, the first inkling you are approaching Kintamani or Batur is the drop in humidity levels. As you drive up the seemingly endless Andong road, lined with shops cargo depots and handicraft factories, the road starts to clear, orange farms and
vegetable gardens take their place. The scent of woodsmoke fills the air.
Then, right at the top after paying an entrance fee to the world famous geopark, you see it!
A vast and magnificent crater. Far below, to one side is the serene lake Batur while smack bang in the centre is the smoking cone of Gunung Batur. This is a sight to awaken the most
jaded of senses.
E ons ago, this volcano exploded so violently that it left a huge hole that has become the lake and the Batur crater. The whole
mountain which was at least as big as Gunung Agung, Bali’s holiest mountain, has broken off and from a distance, it appears as a half mountain with a serrated edge.
This is Kintamani and Batur where the very people are different to those of the lowlands. Many people make it a day trip, stopping for a tourist lunch at one of the many scenic restaurants perching on the caldera’s edge. Others drive up for a brisk breakfast at the luscious Lakeview Hotel before doing the downhill cycle. While these are fine activities, there is so much more in Kintamani.
Down by the lake are hotels, both small and not so small. Hot springs lure with steaming baths in refreshing mineral saturated waters – best taken at sunset, when the chill of night air cools while you steam. Once we even had a bath in the rain, with umbrellas to keep us dry while we sat immersed. It was fabulous!
Walks galore can be enjoyed in the cool mountain pine scented air. A particularly nice walk takes you through the pine forests, along the caldera to Mt Abang. It is a mostly easy walk that takes around three hours and very beautiful. Other smaller walks can be enjoyed wherever you see a track. Guides are easy to find. If you drive up alone, guides will materialize even before you reach the peak and if you descend to the lake’s edge, you will be besieged with willing helpers to take you on the sunrise trek up Mt Batur.
Leaving about three am, you arrive at the peak in time to see a magnificent sunrise, and maybe even breakfast on eggs cooked in
the steaming fumeroles. The feeling of being surrounded by an abundant nature, is close to godliness.
The Batur culture is also a little different. The Ulun Danau Batur temple holds an important place in the Balinese cosmology and is the second most important temple on the island after Pura Besakih. The extraordinary rituals at the frequent temple ceremonies venerate Ida Betawi Dewi the Goddess of Danau (Lake) Batur. Once it resided by the side of the lake and in 1917, after a huge eruption of the volcano, it miraculously escaped engulfment as the lava flow stopped almost at its doorstep.
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After a second eruption in 1926, which almost buried the temple, the banjars decided to move it, Huge piece by piece, to a safer spot at the top of the caldera. Even when there is no ceremony to observe, it is a formidable place, its huge winged gateways standing sentry to the courtyards and temples within.
Another important aspect is the Geopark and the newly instigated Geopark Museum, right by the main entrance Gates to Batur. This imposing building is filled with knowledgeable exhibits about volcanoes in general, and specifically Mt Batur. You can increase your knowledge then pop into Lakeview Hotel for a little R&R.
A drive down to the back side of the crater, where the lava flows have frozen into fantastical forms can really give you an idea of the force of the volcanic eruptions, and it is easy to imagine the scenario of flowing lava, and general mayhem. Today, trucks are filling the roads to take the volcanic rock away to be
used for gravel and who knows what, but no doubt the powers that be figure that there is so much there, that a few million tonnes won’t be missed. Sad to see in a natural wonder and one does wonder what will be the outcome. In the meantime, people are gainfully employed as the lava flows slowly erode.
PLACES – apart from the Lakeview Hotel and the scenic tourist restaurants, Ubud visitors will be happy to know that there is a branch of the healthy Sari Organic Restaurant as the owner is a Kintamani girl.
Lakeview Hotel has three grades of rooms including a backpacker dorm with their own private living room for the budget minded. It is probably one of the nicest backpacker accommodations around.
The other rooms all have balconies looking out over the lake and all modern conveniences. To take breakfast, lunch afternoon tea or dinner looking out across the lake is one of life’s simple pleasures....
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Jl. Raya Candidasa no.48 (main road)Candidasa 80851
Karangasem - East BaliT: +62 363 41177
E: [email protected] www.le48bali.com
“A cozy place to stay & dine right by the beautiful Candidasa Lagoon”Serving French & Indonesian menu - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Jatiluwih Bali’s Treasured HeritageKlungkung and Goa GajahKusamba Fish FestTenganan TrekkingExploring Ubud Food
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Bebek Tepi SawahJl. Raya Goa Gajah, UbudPhone: 0361 970388www.bebektepisawahvillas.com
BridgesJl. Raya Campuan, UbudPhone: 0361 970095www.bridgesbali.com
Biah BiahJl. Goutama, UbudPhone: 0361 978249
Biah-Biah+Jl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 8015124
Bollero Bar & RestoJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 972872www.bollerobali.com
Cafe Des ArtistesJl. Bisma 9x, UbudPhone: 0361 972706www.cafedesartistesbali.com
CP LOUNGEJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 978954www.cp-lounge.com
Coffee CopperJl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, UbudPhone: 0361 978631www.coffee-copper.com
Down To EarthJl. Gotama, UbudPhone: 0361 7835545
Dolce Arancia RestaurantJl. Gotama 17, UbudPhone: 0361 7802381
Gedong SisiJl. Raya Ubud, UbudPhone: 0361 977276www.gedongsisi.com
Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, UbudPhone: 973472www.iburai.com
Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 971056
KebunJl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubudwww.kebunbistro.com
RESTAURANTS
ACCOMMODATION
Alam Ubud VillaDesa Kendran, Tegallalang, UbudPhone: 0361 8790999www.alamubudvilla.com
Arma ResortJl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 976659www.armaresort.com
Cendana Resort & SpaJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 973243www.cendanaresort-spa.com
Gunung Merta BungalowJl. Andong, Peliatan, UbudPhone: 0361 975463
Kupu Kupu BarongJl. Kedewatan, UbudPhone: 0361 975478www.dewanggaubud.com
Melati CottagesJl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, UbudPhone: 0361 974650www.melati-cottages.com
Ubud Sari Health ResortJl. Kajeng, UbudPhone: 0361 974393www.ubudsari.com
Sri Ratih CottagesJl. Raya Campuhan 1, UbudPhone: 0361 975638www.sriratih.com
Tepi Sawah VillasJl. Goa Gajah, Peliatan, UbudPhone: 0361 970388www.tepisawahvillas.com
Terrace Abing ResortBanjar Kebon, Tegallalang, UbudPhone: 0361 980970www.abingterrace.com
Villa Beji IndahBanjar Nyuh Kuning, UbudPhone: 0361 974168
KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, UbudPhone: 0361 970992
Lotus Lane Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 975357www.lotus-restaurants.com
NOMADJl. Raya Ubud 35, UbudPhone: 0361 977169www.nomad-bali.com
Sri Ratih Cafe & JewelryJl. Raya Campuhan 1, UbudPhone: 0361 975638www.sriratih.com
Kafe TopiJl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, UbudPhone: 0361 8235151
Toro SushiJl. Goutama No.3, UbudPhone: 0361 971832
Trattoria Cucina ItalianaJl. Nyuh Kuning, UbudPhone: 0361 5520110
Warung Sopa GardenJl. Nyuh Kuning 2, UbudPhone: 0361 2801340
Warung AlamiJl. Penestanan, UbudPhone: 081 23913754
Warung Merta SariJl. Uma Suke Wayah, UbudPhone: 0361 2021892
Warung PerancisJl. Cok Rai 77, Teges, Mas, UbudPhone: 0361 978109
White BoxJl. Raya Andong, UbudPhone: 0361 979059www.whiteboxbali.com
CP LoungeJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 978954www.cp-lounge.com
Cafe HavanaJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 972973www.cafehavanabali.com
NIGHT LIFE
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Sari Api CeramicsJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 971056
CERAMICS
Pandi [Painter]Jl. Ume Subak Sok Wayah, UbudMobile: 081 338389169
Wayan Suarmadi [Painter]Jl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 978197
Wayan Sila [Owl House]Jl. Bisma, UbudPhone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861
ARTISTS
GALLERIES
Pilar Batu GalleryJl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 978197www.pilarbatu.com
Sari Api GalleryContemporary Handmade CeramicJl. Raya Sanggingan, UbudPhone: 082 3831 5697
Tanah Tho GalleryJl. Raya Lodtunduh, UbudPhone: 0361 981482www.tanahtho.com
SHOPS
Goddess On The GoJl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 976084www.goddessonthego.net
KUL-KUL BambooJl. Kajeng, UbudPhone: 0361 8493547www.facebook.com/kulkulbamboo.com
Nirmala - Work On T’shirtJl. Hanoman 2, UbudPhone: 0361 977561
Rainbow SpiritJl. Hanoman 38, UbudPhone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com
Studio PerakJl. Hanoman, UbudPhone: 0361 974244Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 081 236 [email protected]
SISIJl.Nyuh Kuning No.2, UbudPhone: 0361 8235151www.sisibag.com
YINJl. Dewi Sita, UbudPhone: 0361 970718Jl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 7801879www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com
SPAS
Aura Theraphy SpaUbud Aura Retreat CenterJl. Hanoman 888, UbudPhone: 0361 972956www.ubudaura.com
Ayusha WellnessJl. Penestanan Kelod, UbudPhone: 0361 975578www.ayushawellness.com
Bali Botanical Day SpaJl. Raya Sanggingan, UbudPhone: 0361 976739
KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation SpaYoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 971236www.yogabarn.com/kush
Kayma SpaJl. Monkey Forest, UbudPhone: 0361 9100017www.karmaspaubud.com
Milano SalonMonkey Forest Road, UbudPhone: 0361 [email protected]
Modena Day Spa & SalonMonkey Forest Road, UbudPhone: 0361 970724www.modenadayspa.com
Sedona SpaJl. Raya Campuhan, UbudPhone: 0361 975770www.sedonaspa-ubud.com
SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing SalonJl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & [email protected]
Taksu Spa and RestaurantJl. Gotama Selatan, UbudPhone: 0361 971490www.taksuspa.com
Ubud Wellness SpaJl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 0361 970493www.ubudwellness-balispa.com
Putri Bali SpaJl. Raya Sanggingan, UbudPhone: 0361 7801841
PROPERTY
Red Lotus PropertyJl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, UbudPhone: 970980www.redlotusbaliproperty.com
Yoga BarnJl. Pengosekan, Ubud-BaliPhone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com
Intuitive FlowJl. Penestanan, Ubud-BaliPhone: 977824 | Mobile: 081 23924649www.intuitiveflow.com
YOGA CENTRE
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CONSULATES
USEFUL NUMBERS
MUSEUMS
ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art )Jl. Raya Pengosekan, UbudPhone: 974228
Antonio Blanco Renaissance MuseumJl. Raya Campuhan, UbudPhone: 975502
Museum Puri Lukisan UbudJl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, GianyarPhone: 975136
Neka Art MuseumJl. Raya SangginganPhone: 975074
Pendet MuseumJl. Nyuh Kuning, UbudPhone: 971338
Rudana MuseumJl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, UbudPhone: 975779
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Ashyana CandidasaJl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359www.ashyanacandidasa.com
Bali Catering ServiceJl. Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503, 21425www.balicateringservices.com
Le 48 Hotel & RestaurantJl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177www.le48bali.com
Puri Wirata Dive Resort and SpaJl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523www.puriwirata.com
Air Bali HelicopterBenoa Harbor, PesanggaranPhone: 0361 767466www.airbali.com
Bali Adventure RaftingBypass Ngurah Rai, PesanggaranPhone: 0361 721480www.baliadventuretours.co
SEPEDA BALIGreen Adventure CyclingJl. Nyuh Bojog, UbudPhone: 0361 978631www.sepedabali.com
SPORT/RECREATION
EAST BALI SECTION
Tirta Ayu Hotel & RestaurantJl.Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503www.hoteltirtagangga.com
Villarossa CandidasaJl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062www.villarossa.org
Villa SasoonJl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511www.villasasoon.com
Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & SpaJl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540www.watergardenhotel.com
Indulging Our Passion
UbudLife 86
Have you caressed a pomme d’amour or sucked on its watery interior? Some believe it to be an aphrodisiac, while others consider it a vegetable.
Imagine a fruit that is treated like a vegetable? What a shame.
Nature has so much to give us in the form of its seasonal offerings...the succulent water melon...the fleshy mango ...and the love apple all available for those that seek sensual sustenance in order to exist beyond the parameters of the physical world where the river sutra flows, giving life to all that it touches and embraces: Like the childlike feeling of climbing a tree and breaking a guava... the quivering excitement of eating a durian, the pungent aroma permeating the senses and hanging expectantly in the air around while the lascivious tongue wriggles its way around a banana. Or, the utter joy of placing a kinnow wedgie in one’s mouth followed by a burst of citrus juice drowning the taste buds and teasingly stinging the corners of one’s lips.
But where is the real passion... pure and unbridled amidst the simplicity of living the dream or nightmare?
How does one define this passion that rests outside the sphere of the social contract, a contract that binds us all in cultures that stymie the spirit...the spirit that desperately seeks freedom to express true passion? Does it exist somewhere embedded in the mundanity of each one of us like a dormant seed waiting expectantly for nourishment from the Universe...that spark of madness?
Perhaps there is much truth in what Jack Kerouac has to say, “The only people for me are the mad ones, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn, like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars and in the middle you see the blue center light pop and everybody goes Awww!”
Indulging our passion leads to heaven here on earth and frees us from the suffocating embrace of culture.
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om...
Mark UlyseasPublisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.
LAST WORD
Mark Ulyseas
