tunisian ebook liesure arts beginning patterns
TRANSCRIPT
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by Kim Guzman
TUNISIAN
CROCHET
ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
Crochet
Clear Instructions
Photos of all Stitches
and Techniques 9 Beautiful Projects
INCLUDED:
Get the look of knitted fabricwith the ease of croche
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LEISURE ARTS, INC.
Little Rock, Arkansas
TABLEOF CONTENTS
These fashions are elegant, with the fi ne texture and
appearance of knitwearbut theyre not knitted! They
made with Tunisian crochet. Award-winning teacher Ki
Guzman presents nine fresh designs for you to explore
Learn the skills you need to make a scarf and advance
through a hat, ruana, cowl, crib cover, duffel bag, and
more. Kim walks you through the basics and takes
you through each step with clear photos and friendly
instructions.
If you like the ease of working with a crochet hook,
but admire the look and feel of knitted fabric, youll love
learning Tunisian crochet.
What is Tunisian Crochet? .........3It Looks Just Like Knitting! .........3
The Tunisian Crochet Hook .......4
Getting Started ..........................6
Anatomy of Tunisian
Crochet Stitches ........................7
Learning the Stitches ................7
Additional Techniques .............11Stockinette Scarf ....................14
Stockinette Hat .......................16
Seed Stitch Ruana ..................18
Drop Stitch Cowl ....................21
Diagonal Hearts Crib Cover .....24
Felted Duffel ............................28
Cabled Mitts ...........................34Hoodie Vest ...........................38
Mitered Vest ...........................44
General Instructions ................49
Yarn Information .....................51
Hook Sources .........................51
TUNISIANCROCHET
ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
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KIMGUZMANfills each day withcreativity. Whether shes knitting or crocheting a new design or working
on a new canning experiment with the fruit and vegetables she grows
at her home in Arkansas, she fulfills a lifelong dreamendless creative
ventures in a lovely country setting with her family close at hand. Her
mother likes to call Kim the garden paparazzi when she rushes out to
take photos of flowers, fruit, vegetables, and beautiful butterflies.
The design work that helps Kim realize this dream has won several
awards, including eight Flamies from the Crochet Liberation Front.
One of these was the 2011 award for Best Teacher. Kim has authored
several pattern books, and her designs have appeared in yarn craft
magazines.
Kim says, My goal is to produce crocheted items which more
closely resemble knitted garments. Even my ribbed garments are
designed to specifically avoid bulkiness.
See more of Kims creations at KimaneDesigns.net and
CrochetKim.com. She maintains a blog called WIPs N Chains at
KimGuzman.wordpress.com and is an active member of Ravelry.com.
Photo by Scott C. Campbell
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Would you like to learn a
technique thats quick and easy?
Are you a crocheter or knitter
whos looking to expand your
skills?
Tunisian crochet is easy to learn.
It's so simple, its a breeze to
memorize and master in no time.You can be on your way with a
project in as little as 30 minutes!
IT LOOKS JUST LIK
KNITTING!
The projects in this book were
intentionally made to mimic
the look of knitting. My focus
is to show an entirely new look
in crochet that will appeal to
crocheters and knitters, as weas those who have never knit o
crocheted.
You can finish a Tunisian croch
project that looks like knitting i
much less time than it would ta
you to knit it!
WHAT IS TUNISIAN
CROCHET?
You can think of Tunisian crochet
as crochet that looks like knitting.
With traditional crochet, each
stitch is made separately. It is
started and finished. In Tunisiancrochet, you start all the stitches
in a row in the first pass and
close all the stitches in the
second pass, also called a
return.
If you already know how to make
a single crochet, you already
know how to Tunisian crochet!
TUNISIANCROCHET
ULTIMATE BEGINNERS GUIDE TO
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THE TUNISIAN
CROCHET HOOK
With Tunisian crochet, you are
working an entire row without
closing the stitches, the stitche
remain live on your hook. For
most projects, this requires aspecial crochet hook that is
longer than a traditional hook.
The most commonly used
hook in Tunisian crochet is a
14" (35.5 cm) aluminum hook.
It looks exactly like a knitting
needle, complete with the met
stopper on one end. However,
instead of a point at the otherend, it has a hook(Fig. 1).
For all the projects in this book
you use a 10" to 22" (25.5 cm
56 cm) hook.
In the past decade, though,
there have been great strides i
making new tools and product
accessible to Tunisian crochete
(Fig. 2).
Since the number of stitches h
to be considered in choosing a
hook, there are hooks available
with a nylon cord attached for
wider projects. A project width
can be about three times the
length of the hook, depending
the yarn used.
The Stockinette Scarf and
Cabled Mitts use a 10" (25.5 c
Tunisian hook because of the
small amount of stitches.
Projects with more stitches wil
require a longer Tunisian hook.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2Susan Bates
Boye
Easy Tunisian
Pony Circular
Boye CableBoye
MoEz
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Short Tunisian crochet hooks
(10" to 12") (25.5cm to 30.5 cm)
can be used for small projects,
such as dishcloths, scarves, and
hats. If the projects are wider,
such as sweaters, duffel bags,
crib covers, and large afghans,you will need to use a longer
hook (14" to 22") (35.5 cm
to 56 cm). A Tunisian hook
with plastic cord is used for
such projects. Included in the
photo, page 4, are some of the
variations of hooks that can be
used for Tunisian crochet.
If you have a small project, atraditional crochet hook without
a thumb rest can be used. Simply
wrap a rubber band around
one end to hold the stitches on
the hook.
There are several manufacturers
making interchangeable hook
sets (Fig. 3). Hook heads of the
various sizes are included andvarious cable lengths can be
attached, depending on the width
of your project.
When you are looking at hooks,
you may also notice a double-
ended Tunisian hook(Fig. 4).
These can be used for regular
Tunisian crochet simply by adding
a rubber band to one end.
Fig. 4
Fig. 3
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GETTING STARTEDYou will need some medium
weight yarn (it may have a #4 on
the label) and a 10" (25.5 cm)
Tunisian hook, size K (6.5 mm) to
begin. We will take you throughthe Anatomy of Tunisian Crochet
Stitches. Then, the first stitch
you'll learn is the Tunisian Simple
Stitch, you will begin here and
continue through the first column
on page 8.
Like traditional crochet, you will
start with a chain.
To learn and practice the stitches,
chain 15.
You may find making a chain
with your Tunisian hook awkward
due to its length. Use the same
size standard hook to make
your chain, then change to the
Tunisian hook once the chain is
complete.
Remember to keep your chains
loose! If you tend to make your
chains tight, try going up one or
two hook sizes for the chain.
To maintain a nice edge, you
will be working into the back
horizontal barof your chain
(sometimes called back ridge).
If you turn the chain over, you will
see this horizontal bar (Fig. 5).
If you have trouble getting your
hook under the bar, try using
the thumb and forefinger of your
non-hook hand to grasp it and
pull it up a little so that your hook
can be inserted.
When working in Tunisian
crochet, you will always use an
overhand hold. Imagine yourse
holding a bicycle handlebar
(Fig. 6). Now youre ready to
begin your Foundation Row!
FOUNDATION ROW(FORWARD PASS)
Tunisian crochet projects will
begin with a Foundation Row.
Skip the first chain and insert
your hook into the horizontal
bar of the second chain fromhook, yarn over and pull the lo
through. You will now have two
loops on your hook(Fig. 7).
Continue to insert your hook in
each remaining horizontal bar
across and pulling up loops un
you have pulled up a loop in ea
chain (Fig. 8).
You will have the same numbe
of loops as your beginning cha
15 loops.
To ensure that you have pulled
up a loop in each chain, count
your loops. You should count
your loops for each row until
you become comfortable with
Tunisian crochet.
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
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Fig. 9
Fig. 10
CLOSE (RETURN PASS)To begin to close the loops on
your hook, yarn over and pull
through one loop on hook. This
beginning step is a chain 1
(Fig. 9).
Yarn over and pull through
2 loops on hook. Repeat until you
have one loop remaining on the
hook(Fig. 10).
ANATOMY OFTUNISIAN CROCHET
STITCHESYou should now inspect yourwork thoroughly so you can
become familiar with its different
features.
Stretch the top and bottom of
the row apart so that you can
see the stitches more clearly. The
front vertical bar for each stitch
goes up into the chain and backdown the other side (Fig. 11).
Distinguishing between these
bars is important when working
different Tunisian stitches.
After completing your Foundation
Row, do not turn your work.
Unless the pattern indicates, you
do not turn in Tunisian crochet.
LEARNING THESTITCHESTUNISIAN SIMPLESTITCH (abbreviated tss)See Fig. 12 for a swatch with
right side of tss facing.
This stitch is often called afghan
stitch and is the most common
of all Tunisian crochet stitches.
Note: The contrasting color of
yarn is used in the following figs
so that you may see and identify
the stitches being made. It is not
necessary to change color at this
time.
Always skip the first vertical bar of
the row. It is holding the last loopon the hook from the previous
Closing. Although it is considered
a stitch, it is not worked and the
loop on the hook counts as the
first stitch (Fig. 13).
Fig. 1
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
vertical bars
firstvertical bar
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TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH
(abbreviated tks)
See Fig. 17 for a swatch with
right side of tks facing. Fig. 18
the same swatch with the wro
side of tks facing.
An overall patterning of Tunisia
Knit Stitch will look just like han
knit stockinette stitch from the
right side. The tell-tale sign tha
it is Tunisian crochet is the ridg
on the wrong side. Like hand-
knit stockinette stitch, the edg
will tend to curl.
To begin a new swatch, chain
Skip the first chain and insert
your hook into the horizontal
bar of the second chain from
hook, yarn over and pull the lo
through.
Continue to insert your hook in
each remaining horizontal bar
across until you have pulled uploop in each chain: 15 loops.
Yarn over and pull through
one loop on hook, (yarn over a
pull through 2 loops on hook)
across: one loop.
Look closely at your stitches.
See the front vertical bar going
up and into the chain and then
back down in the back of your
work(Fig. 19, page 9). It is
important that you insert your
hookbetween the two bars of
each stitch.
Insert your hook from right to
left for right handed crocheters
(or left to right for left handed
crocheters) under the next front
vertical bar (Fig. 14). Yarn over
(by wrapping the yarn around the
hook from back to front) and pulla loop through.
Work across to the last stitch
(Fig. 15).
If you look closely at the last
stitch, you will see that its a little
different. Its not just one vertical
bar that goes up and down
the back, but three strands.Remember the chain 1 made
at the beginning of the Closing of
the Foundation Row on page 7?
This is that chain-1.
To work the last stitch, insert your
hook into the chain under both
bars as indicated by the arrow in
Fig 15. You should have two bars
on your hook(Fig. 16). Yarn overand pull the loop through the last
st: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn
over and pull through one loop
on hook, (yarn over and pull
through 2 loops on hook) across:
one loop.
Practice tss for a few inches.
To finish off, cut yarn leaving
about an 8" (20.5 cm) end, pull
end through loop and tighten.
Fig. 14
Fig. 16
Fig. 15
Fig. 17
Fig. 18
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I have always liked to call this
Going Under the Rainbow.
Ensure that you are making the
stitches underthe rainbow and
not between the rainbows.
Skip the first vertical bar, insertyour hook from the front of your
work to the back of your work
between the front and back
vertical bars of the next stitch
(Fig. 20). Yarn over and pull the
loop through.
Continue to pull up a loop in each
st across: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn over
and pull through one loop on
hook, (yarn over and pull through
2 loops on hook) across: one
loop.
Practice tks for a few inches;
finish off.
TUNISIAN PURL AND
REVERSE STITCHES
The Tunisian Purl Stitch and the
Tunisian Reverse Stitch are used
frequently at the beginning of a
project to prevent the edges from
curling.
A piece worked in Tunisian Purl
Stitch is flat and resembles
hand-knit Reverse Stockinette
Stitch (Fig. 21). A piece worked
in Tunisian Reverse Stitch is
ridged, resembling hand-knit
Garter Stitch (Fig. 23, page 10).
Although they dont have the
same look, you can use either
stitch in a project where a
hand-knit purl look is desired.
TUNISIAN PURL STITCH
(abbreviated tps)See Fig. 21 for a swatch with
right side of tps facing.
To begin a new swatch, chain 15.
Skip the first chain and insert
your hook into the horizontal
bar of the second chain from
hook, yarn over and pull the loop
through.
Continue to insert your hook into
each remaining horizontal bar
across until you have pulled up a
loop in each chain: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn
over and pull through one loop
on hook, (yarn over and pull
through 2 loops on hook) across:one loop.
Hold the yarn to the front of
your work. Skip first vertical bar,
insert your hook right to left for
right handed crocheters (or left to
right for left handed crocheters)
under the next vertical bar. Yarn
over and pull the loop through
(Fig. 22, page 10).
Fig. 2
Fig. 2Front
Back
Fig. 1Front
Back Chain
Rainbow
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Essentially, what you have
created is a Tunisian Simple
Stitch, except you have forced
the yarn to wrap around the
front vertical bar, forming what
could be considered a hand-knit
purl bump.
Continue to pull up a loop in each
st across: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn over
and pull through one loop
on hook, (yarn over and pull
through 2 loops on hook) across:
one loop.
Practice tps for a few inches;
finish off.
TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH
(abbreviated trs)
See Fig. 23 for a swatch with
right side of trs facing.
Tunisian Reverse Stitch (also
called reverse afghan stitch) isworked from right to left for right
handed crocheters (or left to
right for left handed crocheters)
under the backvertical bar, so
the chain falls toward the front or
right side of your work.
To begin a new swatch, chain 15.
Skip the first chain and insert
your hook into the horizontal
bar of the second chain from
hook, yarn over and pull the loop
through.
Continue to insert your hook into
each remaining horizontal bar acro
until you have pulled up a loop in
each chain: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn over a
pull through one loop on hook, (yaover and pull through 2 loops on
hook) across: one loop.
With the yarn to the backof your
work, skip the first vertical bar.
Insert your hook from the back of
your work, from right to left for righ
handed crocheters (or left to right
for left handed crocheters) under t
next backvertical bar, yarn over apull a loop through (Fig. 24).
Continue to pull up a loop in each
across: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn over a
pull through one loop on hook, (ya
over and pull through 2 loops on
hook) across: one loop.
Practice trs for a few inches;finish off.
TUNISIAN EXTENDED
STITCH (abbreviated tes)
See Fig. 25 for a swatch with righ
side of tes facing.
To begin a new swatch, chain 15.
Skip the first chain and insert your
hook into the horizontal bar of the
second chain from hook, yarn ove
and pull the loop through.
Fig. 22
Fig. 24
Fig. 23
Fig. 25
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Continue to insert your hook into
each remaining horizontal bar
across until you have pulled up a
loop in each chain: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn over
and pull through one loop on hook,(yarn over and pull through 2 loops
on hook) across: one loop.
Skip the first vertical bar, insert your
hook from the front of your work
to the backof your workbetween
the front and back vertical bars of
the next stitch.
Yarn over and pull the loopthrough. Then, chain 1 (or yarn
over and pull through the loop on
your hook) (Fig. 26).
Continue to pull up a loop in each
st across: 15 loops.
To close your stitches, yarn over
and pull through one loop on hook,
(yarn over and pull through 2 loopson hook) across: one loop.
Practice tes for a few inches; now
we'll learn how to bind off.
BINDING OFF
Insert your hook from right to left
for right handed crocheters (or left
to right for left handed crocheters)
under the second vertical bar
from hook. Yarn over and pull the
loop through both loops on hook
(Fig. 27).
Work across until one loop remains
on hook; finish off.
ADDITIONAL
TECHNIQUESDECREASING IN TUNISIAN
CROCHET
There are several methods of
decreasing in Tunisian crochet.
We will instruct you on thetwo most popular decreases:
the knit 2 together and the
reverse knit 2 together.
KNIT 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated k2tog)
Insert your hook from the front of
your work to the backof your work
between the front and back vertical
bars of the next 2 stitches (Fig. 28).Yarn over and pull the loop through
to decrease one stitch.
REVERSE KNIT 2
TOGETHER
(abbreviated revk2tog)
Skip one stitch, using your hook,
pull the front vertical bar of next
stitch until it is on top of the skipped
stitch (Fig. 29), then insert yourhook from the front of your work to
the back of your work between the
front and back vertical bars of both
the stitches, yarn over and pull a
loop through. This decreases one
stitch.
Gently stretching the stitches and
holding the skipped stitch flat with
your non-hook hand may help in
making your decrease. Then pull the
next stitch over the skipped stitch.
Fig. 27
Fig. 28
Fig. 29
Fig. 26
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Fig. 30
Fig. 31
INCREASING IN
TUNISIAN CROCHET
YARN OVER
(abbreviated YO)
A yarn over is simply that, made
by either placing the hook under
the yarn or by wrapping the yarnfrom front to backover the hook.
It creates a hole or eyelet,
(Fig. 30) and increases the
number of stitches by one stitch.
MAKE ONE (abbreviated M1)
A Make One is executed by
inserting your hook from front
to back under the yarn over
created in the prior row (Fig. 31)and increases the number of
stitches by one stitch.
ADDING NEW BALL OF
YARN OR CHANGING
COLORS
It is best to add a new ball of
yarn at the end or beginning of
a row. By adding at the end of
a row, the yarn will end up at aseam and will not be visible on
the finished piece.
If you wish to change colors at
the beginning of a row, close your
stitches until 2 loops remain on
your hook. Drop the old yarn and
with the new yarn (Fig. 32), yarn
over and draw through 2 loops
on hook. Be sure to leave at least
a 6" (15 cm) end to weave in later.
If you wish to change colors at
the end of a row, once you hav
completed all your stitches but
before closing, drop the old ya
yarn over and pull through one
loop on hook(Fig. 33), (yarn o
and pull through 2 loops on hoacross: one loop. Again, leave
least a 6" (15 cm) strand of yar
to weave in later.
2-COLOR AND 3-COLO
TECHNIQUES
Color changes can be used
to add interest to simple stitch
patterns.
If a striped effect is desired,
change colors at the beginning
each row. Carry the unused co
along the side edge. The swat
in Fig. 34 is worked in Tunisian
Knit Stitch.
An interesting alternative to
changing color at the beginnin
of a row is to change colorsbefore closing each row. Alway
begin closing your stitches wit
a different color. The swatch
in Fig. 35, page 13 is worked
in a seed stitch pattern with
Tunisian Knit Stitch and Tunisia
Reverse Stitch.
With the 3-Color Technique, yo
change to a new color at the
beginning and before closing
each row. The swatch in Fig. 3
page 13 is also worked in a
Seed Stitch pattern as in Fig. 3
page 13, but with 3 colors
instead of 2 colors.
Fig. 32
Fig. 34
Fig. 33
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FINISHINGSEAMING
When seaming along the ends of
the rows, use your yarn needle
to go under the 2 bars of the
Tunisian Knit Stitches on each
side (Fig. 37). Try not to pullyour seaming stitches too tightly
as this will cause the fabric to
buckle. You want your rows to
sit together next to each other
as though they are within the row.
When seaming across the
last row, in the same manner,
use your needle to go under
the 2 bars of the Tunisian KnitStitches (Figs. 38a & b). This will
cause the chain to be pushed to
the wrong side of your work.
TIPS
A LOOPY FIRST STITCH OF
THE ROW
To avoid a loose first stitch, insert
your hook to make the stitch and
pull the yarn taut before yarningover, then continue with your
stitch.
COUNTING THE ROWS
It is easiest to count your rows
along the side edge at the
beginning of each row (Fig. 40).
GAUGE
Gauge is the number of stitches
and rows in every inch of your
crocheting and is used to control
the finished size. Most patterns
specify the gauge, or tension,
that the designer usedand that
you must match to get the proper
size.
Because everyone crochets
differentlyloosely, tightly, or
somewhere in betweenthe
finished size can vary when the
crocheters use the very same
pattern, yarn, and hook.
Before starting a project, it'sabsolutely necessary for you to
crochet a swatch in the pattern
stitch with the yarn and hook
suggested. Since you will want
to measure a flat area of the
swatch, you will need to chain a
few more stitches than the actual
gauge and also work a few more
rows.
EXAMPLE
A pattern calls for a medium
weight yarn and size K Tunisian
hook (6.5 cm) to achieve a gauge
of 12 tks and 13 rows = 4"
(10 cm).
Chain 16.
Work in tks for 17 rows, then
cut yarn. Lay your swatch ona hard, smooth, flat surface.
Measure to see if you have 12 tks
and 13 rows in a 4" (10 cm )
square. If your swatch is smaller
than 4" (10 cm) square, you are
crocheting too tightlytry again
with a larger size hook. If it is
larger than 4" (10 cm), you are
crocheting too looselytry again
with a smaller size hook.
Tip: Keep track of the hook size
and yarn weight for your pattern
in case your hook becomes
AWOL from that project.
Fig. 40
Fig. 37
Fig. 38
Fig. 38
Fig. 35
Fig. 36
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Finished Size: 6" wide x 60" long
(15 cm x 152.5 cm)
(excluding Tassels)
MATERIALS
Medium Weight Yarn
[3 ounces, 185 yards
(85 grams, 170 meters) per skein]:4 skeins
Minimum length of 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Yarn needle
GAUGE: 12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8.
Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to curl; once the Scarf is seamed, the
fabric will relax.
SCARFLeaving a long end for sewing, ch 36.
Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of
second ch from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:
36 sts.
stockinette
SCARFThe Scarf is
worked from
one end to
the other end.
Then the end
of the rows are
seamed, each
end is gathered
and a tassel is
added.
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Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, work tks across, close.
Repeat Row 1 until Scarf measures approximately 60"
(152.5 cm) from beginning ch.
Bind Off Row: Skip first vertical bar, inserting hook as
for tks work slip st across, finish off leaving a long end
for sewing.
With wrong side together, fold Scarf in half lengthwise
and seam end of rows (Fig. 37, page 13).
Thread yarn needle with long beginning end. Weave
needle through chs, gather tightly and secure end.
Thread yarn needle with long end at end of last row.
Weave needle through sts, gather tightly and secureend.
TASSEL(Make 2)Cut a piece of cardboard 3" (7.5 cm) wide and as long
as you want your finished tassel to be. Wind a double
strand of yarn around the cardboard approximately
48 times. Cut an 18" (45.5 cm) length of yarn and
insert it under all of the strands at the top of the
cardboard; pull up tightly and tie securely. Leave theyarn ends long enough to attach the tassel. Cut the
yarn at the opposite end of the cardboard and then
remove it (Fig. A). Cut a 6" (15 cm) length of yarn and
wrap it tightly around the tassel twice, 1" (2.5 cm)
below the top (Fig. B); tie securely. Trim the ends.
Attach one Tassel to each end of Scarf.
Fig. A Fig. B
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Finished Head Circumference: 20" (52 cm) at band
(unstretched)
MATERIALS
Medium Weight Yarn
[3 ounces, 185 yards(85 grams, 170 meters) per skein]:
2 skeins
Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size J (6 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Standard crochet hook, size F (3.75 mm) or
size needed for gauge
Yarn needle
GAUGES
In slip st pattern, with standard crochet hook,
7 slip sts = 1" (2.5 cm); 35 rows = 4" (10 cm)
In tks pattern, with Tunisian hook,
15 tks and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8.
KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.
stockinette
HATThe Hat is made
flat, starting with
the Band which is
worked vertically.
Stitches are then
picked up along
the end of the
rows, worked
toward top
center of Hat and
seamed together.
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BANDWith standard crochet hook,
ch 8.
Row 1: Slip st in horizontal bar
of second ch from hook(Fig 42,
page 50) and each ch across
(Fig 5, page 6): 7 slip sts.
If the last st of a slip st row is too
loose, work the last st in both loops
instead of only the back loop.
Rows 2-180: Turn; slip st in Back
Loop Only of each st across
(Fig. 40, page 50); do not
finish off.
BODYRow 1 (Right side): With Tunisian
hook and working in end of rows,
pick up 89 sts evenly spaced
across, close: 90 tss.
If you are having trouble inserting
the Tunisian hook into the end of
the rows, use the standard crochethook to pull up the yarn and place
it onto the Tunisian hook.
Rows 2-20: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close.
Row 21: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work 7 tks, k2tog) 9 times,
work 6 tks, close: 80 sts.
Row 22: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work 6 tks, k2tog) 9 times,
work 5 tks, close: 70 sts.
Row 23: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work 5 tks, k2tog) 9 times,
work 4 tks, close: 60 sts.
Row 24: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work 4 tks, k2tog) 9
times, work 3 tks, close: 50 sts.
Row 25: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work 3 tks, k2tog) 9
times, work 2 tks, close: 40 sts.
Row 26: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work 2 tks, k2tog) 9
times, work tks, close: 30 sts.
Row 27: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, (work tks, k2tog) 9 times,
close: 20 sts.
Row 28: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks, (k2tog, work tks) 6 tim
close: 14 sts.
Row 29: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog 7 times, close: 7 sts.
Bind Off Row: Inserting hook a
for tks, slip st across; finish off
leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread yarn needle with long en
Weave needle through sts on Bi
Off Row, gather tightly and secu
end; with same yarn, weave sea
(Fig. 37, page 13).
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Finished Size: One size fits most
MATERIALS
Bulky Weight Yarn
[3.5 ounces, 187 yards
(100 grams, 172 meters) per skein]:
Variegated - 8 skeinsMedium Weight Yarn
[3 ounces, 154 yards
(85 grams, 141 meters) per skein]:
Green - 3 skeins
Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
GAUGE: With Variegated andin Seed Stitch
(tks, trs), 11 sts and 12 rows = 4" (10 cm)Please refer to gauge on page 50.
STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8.
TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH,page 10.
seed stitch
RUANAThe Ruana is made
in one piece from
Back bottom edge
to Front bottom
edges. Stitches are
picked up across
end of the rows for
the Trims.
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The Ruana is constructed ofseed stitch because of the
fabrics unique back which is
equally as beautiful as the front
(Figs. A & B).
Fig. A
Fig. B
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BACKWith Variegated, ch 98.
Foundation Row (Right side):
Pull up a loop in horizontal
bar of second ch from hook
and each ch across (Fig. 5,
page 6), close: 98 sts.
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks, (work trs, work tks)
across, close.
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar,
work trs, (work tks, work trs)
across to last 2 sts, work 2 tks,
close.
Rows 3-79: Repeat Rows 1
and 2, 38 times; then repeat
Row 1 once more; do not
finish off.
FIRST FRONTRow 1: Skip first vertical bar,
work trs, (work tks, work trs)16 times, work 2 tks, leave
remaining 62 sts unworked,
close: 36 sts.
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks, (work trs, work tks)
across, close.
Row 3: Skip first vertical bar,
work trs, (work tks, work trs)
across to last 2 sts, work 2 tks,
close.
Rows 4-82: Repeat Rows 2 and
3, 39 times; then repeat Row 2
once more.
Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as
for tks, slip st across; finish off.
SECOND FRONTRow 1: Skip next 26 sts on Row 7
from Back and join Variegated wit
slip st in vertical bar (counts as fir
tks), work trs, (work tks, work trs)
16 times, work 2 tks, close: 36 sts
Complete same as First Front.
TRIMSTrim may curl slightly and require a
small amount of wet blocking.
SIDE EDGE
Row 1: With right side facing,
using Green, and working in end orows, pick up a loop in end of eac
row across one outer edge, close
162 sts.
Rows 2-8: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks, (work 2 trs, work 2 tks)
across, close.
Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as
tks, slip st across; finish off.
Repeat across opposite outer edg
INNER EDGE
Row 1: With right side facing,
using Green, and working in end o
rows, pick up a loop in end of eac
row across First Front, work 26 tk
across unworked sts on Row 79 o
Back, pull up a loop in end of each
row of across Second Front, close
190 sts.
Rows 2-8: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks, (work 2 trs, work 2 tks)
across, close.
Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as
trs, slip st across; finish off.
351/2"
391/2"
FRONT FRONT
17" 13"
271/2"
261/2"
54"
BACK
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Finished Size: 52" circumference x 16" tall
(132 cm x 40.5 cm)
MATERIALSLight Weight Yarn
[3.5 ounces, 365 yards
(100 grams, 334 meters) per hank]:
2 hanks
For best results, use a 100% natural fiber.
Minimum length of 22" (56 cm) Tunisian hook,
size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Clean towel
Yarn needle
Gauge: In pattern,
12 sts = 4" (10 cm);
9 rows = 3" (9 cm)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,page 8.
YARN OVER,page 12.
drop stitch
COWLThe Cowl isworked from the
bottom edge to
the top edge.
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COWLCh 156.
Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a loop
in horizontal bar of second ch from hook
and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:
156 sts.
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, work tks acros
close.
Row 2
Step A: (YO, work tks) across: 311 loops.
Step B: Close as follows: ch 2, # carefully
remove last loop from hook with non-stitchin
hand, slip YO off hook, place loop back onto
hook, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook
repeat from # across until one loop remains hook: 156 sts.
Row 3: Skip first vertical bar, work tks acros
to ch 2, work tks in top of ch-2, close.
Row 4: Skip first vertical bar, work tks acros
close.
Tug gently on the piece to even out the
elongated stitches.
Rows 5-39: Repeat Rows 2-4, 11 times; the
Rows 2 and 3 once more.
Bind Off Row: Inserting hook as for tks, sc
across, finish off.
FINISHINGCompletely immerse in cool water, squeeze
gently, then roll in a clean towel to remove
excess water. Lay Cowl on flat surface,
being careful to smooth out and allow to dry
completely, or block as desired.
With wrong sides together and matching row
sew end of rows together to form a ring.
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Finished Size: 39" x 42" (99 cm x 106.5 cm)
MATERIALS
Light Weight Yarn
[5 ounces, 459 yards
(141 grams, 420 meters) per skein]:4 skeins
Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Standard crochet hook, size G (4 mm)
GAUGE: With Tunisian hook, 15 sts and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH, page 8.
TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH page 10.
The first row of the chart is the foundation row, and the first column of the
chart is the first loop on the hook. The white squares are worked as Tunisian
Knit Stitch and the shaded squares are worked as Tunisian Reverse Stitch. The
chart is worked from right to left for all rows for right handed crocheters and
left to right for left handed crocheters.
diagonal hearts
CRIB COVERThe Crib Cover
is worked by
following the
chart on pages
26 and 27.
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BODYWith Tunisian hook, ch 143.
Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up a
loop in horizontal bar of second ch from
hook and each ch across (Fig. 5, page 6),
close: 143 sts.
Rows 1-5: Skip first vertical bar, work trs
across, close.
Rows 6-163: Follow Chart; do not
finish off.
TRIMRnd 1: With standard crochet hook, ch 1;
working as for trs across Row 164, 3 scin first st, sc in each st across to last st,
3 sc in last st; sc evenly across end of
rows; working in free loops of beginning
ch (Fig. 41, page 50), 3 sc in first ch, sc
in each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in ch; sc
evenly across end of rows; join with slip st
to Back Loop Only of first sc (Fig. 40,
page 50).
See Basic Crochet Stitches, page 50.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in Back Loops Only,
sc in each sc around working 3 sc in center
sc of each corner 3-sc group; join with
slip st to both loops of first sc, finish off.
KEY -
trs
-tks
160
150
140
130
120
1 1 0
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100
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
1
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Finished Size: 15" long x 9" high (38 cm x 23 cm)
(after felting, not including handles)
Measurements are approximate as felting
results will differ depending on the amount
of desired felting, the type of yarn used, and
even the colors used.
MATERIALS
100% non-superwash
Wool Medium Weight Yarn
[3.5 ounces, 220 yards
(100 grams, 201 meters) per hank]:
Taupe - 3 hanks
Green - 2 hanks
Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size L (8 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Standard crochet hook, size G (4 mm) orsizeneeded for gauge
" (19 mm) Round shank buttons - 2
Sewing needle and matching thread
Yarn needle
GAUGE: With Tunisian hook,
12 tks and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm)
(before felting)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
felted
DUFFELThe Body of the
Duffel is worked from
the bottom center
horizontally toward
the top on the First
Side. Stitches are
then picked up on
the opposite side of
the beginning ch and
worked toward the topfor the Second Side.
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STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN SIMPLE STITCH,
page 7.
TUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,
page 8.
KNIT 2 TOGETHER, page 11.REVERSE KNIT 2
TOGETHER, page 11.
Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to
curl; but the Duffels construction
and felting will relax the fabric.
END(Make 2)With Tunisian hook, using Taupe,and leaving a long end for
sewing, ch 15.
Foundation Row (Right side):
Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of
second ch from hook and each
ch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:
15 sts.
Rows 1-12: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across to last st, leave
last st unworked, close: 3 tks.
Row 13: Skip first vertical bar,
work 2 tks, work tks in each
skipped st at end of each row
across, close (wedge completed):
15 tks.
Rows 14-116: Repeat
Rows 1-13, 7 times; then repeat
Rows 1-12 once more (a total of
9 wedges completed): 3 tks.
Row 117: Skip first vertical bar,working as for tks across, slip st
in each skipped st at end of each
row across; finish off.
BODYFIRST SIDEWith Tunisian hook and using
Green, ch 51.
Foundation Row (Right side):
Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of
second ch from hook and each
ch across, close changing to
Taupe in last st (see Changing
Colors, page 12): 51 sts.
When pattern indicates to slip
next st onto hook, insert hook
as for Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss),hold the stitch there on the hook
and move on to the next stitch.
The stitch is not actually worked;
it is simply placed on the hook.
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar,
work 2 tks, # slip next st onto
hook, work 3 tks; repeat from #
across, close changing to Green
in last st.
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close changin
to Taupe in last st.
Row 3: Skip first vertical bar, s
next st onto hook, # work 3 tkslip next st onto hook; repeat
from # across to last st, work
tks in last st, close changing to
Green in last st.
Row 4: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close changin
to Taupe in last st.
Rows 5-58: Repeat Rows 1-413 times; then repeat Rows 1
and 2 once more, do not chan
colors at end of Row 58.
Finish off.
SECOND SIDEFoundation Row: With right
side of Body facing and workin
in free loops of beginning ch(Fig. 41, page 50), with Tunisi
hook and using Green, pull up
a loop in each ch across, close
changing to Taupe in last st:
51 sts.
Complete same as First Side:
51 tks.
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HANDLE(Make 2)With Tunisian hook and using
Taupe, ch 70.
Foundation Row (Right side):
Pull up a loop in horizontal bar ofsecond ch from hook and each
ch across, close: 70 sts.
Rows 1-4: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close.
Joining Row: Skip first vertical
bar, working in tks on Row 4 and
in free loops of beginning ch,
slip st in each st across; finish off.
ASSEMBLYThe joining is worked on the
right side of the work to form a
decorative edge.
REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET
(abbreviated reverse sc)
Working from left to right,# insert hook in st to right of hook
(Fig. A), YO and draw through,
under and to left of loop on hook
(2 loops on hook) (Fig. B), YO
and draw through both loops on
hook(Fig. C)(reverse sc made,
Fig. D); repeat from # around.
Trim: With wrong sides together,
hold one End and Body together
with End towards you. Using
standard crochet hook, working
through both thicknesses,
and matching rows, join Greenwith slip st in first row; ch 1,
work reverse sc evenly around
(Figs. A-D); join with slip st to
first st, finish off.
Repeat for remaining End.
Thread yarn needle with long
beginning end of End, weave
needle through sts, gather tightlyand secure end. With same yarn
and wrong sides together, sew
Row 117 to beginning ch; secure
end.
Thread yarn needle with 12"
(30.5 cm) strand of Green. Sew
First Side and Second Side
together through first 11 sts on
top edge of Body. Repeat withlast 11 sts.
Insert Handles between the
stitches approximately 5 rows
down and 5 stitches from each
edge on Body. Tie a knot in each
end of Handle on inside of bag.
Stitch each Handle in place to
keep it from slipping out of the
stitch during the felting process.
Fig. A
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
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FLAPRow 1: With Tunisian hook, using
Green, and working in unused tks
at opening, pull up a loop in each
tks, close: 29 tks.
Rows 2-5: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close.
Rows 6-9: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across to last
3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last
st, close: 21 tks.
Row 10:
Step A: Skip first vertical bar,work 2 tks, working as for tks,
slip st in next 3 tks (buttonhole),
work tks across to last 4 sts,
working as for tks, slip st in next
3 tks (buttonhole), work tks in
last st.
Step B: Ch 1, YO and pull
through 2 loops on hook, ch 1,
(YO and pull through 2 loops on
hook) 11 times, ch 1, YO andpull through last 3 loops on hook;
finish off.
HAND FELTING
To felt your project, youll need a
sink full of hot water and a small
bit of liquid dishwashing soap.
The water doesnt need to be
boiling. Usually, hot water rightout of the tap will be sufficient.
Completely immerse your project
in the hot water. You will see the
stitches become very loose. Pay
attention to the handles of your
bag because they can come out
of the stitch they are inserted
through until your project is
completely felted.
Now, youll need agitation. You
can use your hands or an object
such as a wooden or plastic
spoon. If using a wooden spoon,
make sure the edges are all
smooth. You can use rubber
gloves if the water is too hot for
you to handle. Move your project
around in the water, pulling itup, plunging it down. Swish it
around. Pretend you are hand
washing an item of clothing.
If you become tired, simply lea
the project in the hot water.
Once the water has cooled,
empty and refill it. You should
start feeling a difference in thefabric. By the third or fourth refi
your project will be completely
felted. Rinse your project and r
in a clean towel to remove exc
water before shaping to dry.
FINISHINGShape bag as desired. Fill with
plastic bags to help Bag keep
shape. Allow to dry completelyAttach buttons adjacent to
buttonholes.
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Finished Size: 10" (25.5 cm) circumference at
widest point x 5" (14 cm) height
MATERIALS
Medium Weight Yarn
[3 ounces, 132 yards
(85 grams, 121 meters) per skein]:Red - 1 skein
OR
[3 ounces, 154 yards
(85 grams, 141 meters) per skein]:
Green - 1 skein
Minimum length of 10" (25.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Standard crochet hook, size K (6.5 mm) orsize
needed for gauge
Cable needles - 2Yarn needle
GAUGE: With standard crochet hook,
4 slip sts = 1" (2.5 cm);
20 rows = 4" (10 cm)
with Tunisian hook,
13 tks and 14 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
cabled
MITTSThe Mitts are made
flat, starting with the
wrist which is worked
vertically. Stitches are
then picked up along
the end of rows and
worked toward the
fingers; then the end
of rows are seamed.
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STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,
page 8.
KNIT 2 TOGETHER,page 11.CABLE
When working a Cable Crossing,
the stitches are being removed
from the hook, re-positioned,
then placed back on the hook to
work.
Use care when working a
row after a Cable Crossing.
If necessary, pull up on theprevious row of stitches to
separate them and ensure that
no stitches are missed.
FIRST MITTWRISTWith standard crochet hook,
ch 5.
Row 1: Slip st in horizontal bar
of second ch from hook(Fig 42,
page 50) and each ch across
(Fig. 5, page 6): 4 slip sts.
Rows 2-33: Ch 1, turn; slip st
in Back Loop Only of each st
across (Fig. 40, page 50); do
not finish off.
HANDRow 1 (Right side): With Tunis
hook and working in end of row
skip first row, pull up a loop innext row and in each row acro
close: 33 tss.
If you have trouble inserting the
Tunisian hook into the end of t
rows, use a smaller size standa
crochet hook to pull up the yar
and place it onto the Tunisian
hook.
Rows 2 and 3: Skip first vertic
bar, work tks across, close.
Row 4: Skip first vertical bar,
work 17 tks, [slip last 3 tks
made onto first cable needle
and hold at backof work, slip
next 3 tks made onto second
cable needle and hold at front
of work(Fig. A), slip sts fromfirst cable needle at back onto
hook(Fig. B); then slip sts from
second cable needle at front o
hook(Cable Crossing made)]
work tks across, close.
Rows 5-8: Skip first vertical ba
work tks across, close.
Fig. A
Fig. B
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Row 9 (Thumb opening): Skip
first vertical bar, inserting hook as
for k2tog work slip st, [inserting
hook as for tks work slip st,inserting hook as for k2tog work
slip st] twice (thumb opening)
(one loop on hook), work 9 tks,
work Cable Crossing using
previous 6 tks, work tks across,
close: 25 tks.
Rows 10-13: Skip first vertical
bar, work tks across, close.
Row 14: Skip first vertical bar,
work 9 tks, work Cable Crossing
using previous 6 tks, work tks
across, close.
Rows 15-17: Skip first vertical
bar, work tks across, close.
Bind Off Row: Skip first vertical
bar, [inserting hook as for k2togwork slip st, inserting hook as for
tks work slip st] across; finish off
leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread yarn needle with long
end and seam Mitt leaving
thumb opening unsewn (Fig. 37,
page 13).
SECOND MITTWork Wrist and Hand same as
First Mitt through Row 3 of Hand:
33 tks.
Row 4: Skip first vertical
bar, work 20 tks, work Cable
Crossing using previous 6 tks,
work tks across, close.
Rows 5-8: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close.
Row 9 (Thumb opening): Skipfirst vertical bar, work 20 tks,
work Cable Crossing using
previous 6 tks, work 5 tks,
inserting hook as for tks work
slip st, [inserting hook as for
k2tog work slip st, inserting hook
as for tks work slip st] twice
(thumb opening); finish off; with
new yarn, close: 25 tks.
Rows 10-13: Skip first vertical
bar, work tks across, close.
Row 14: Skip first vertical
bar, work 20 tks, work Cable
Crossing using previous 6 tks,
work tks across, close.
Rows 15-17: Skip first vertica
bar, work tks across, close.
Bind Off Row: Skip first vertic
bar, [inserting hook as for k2to
work slip st, inserting hook as
tks work slip st] across, finish o
leaving a long end for sewing.
Thread yarn needle with long e
and seam Mitt leaving thumb
opening unsewn.
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Size Finished Chest
Measurement
Extra Small 31" (80 cm)
Small 35" (90 cm)
Medium 39" (99 cm)
Large 43" (109 cm)
Extra Large 46" (118 cm)
Size Note: Instructions are written with sizes Extra Small and
Small in the first set of braces { } and sizes Medium, Large, and
Extra Large in the second set of braces. Instructions will be easier
to read if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only
one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
MATERIALS
Fine Weight Self-striping Yarn
[2.29 ounces, 185 yards(65 grams, 169 meters) per skein]:
{7-8}{8-9-10} skeins
Minimum length of 18-22" (45.5-56 cm) Tunisian hook,
size H (5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Standard crochet hook, size E (3.5 mm)
Split ring stitch marker7/8" (22 mm) Round buttons - 2
Tapestry needle
GAUGE: With Tunisian hook,
17 tks and 21 rows = 4" (10 cm)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
hoodie
VESTThe Hoodie Vest is
made in one piece,
working from the
bottom edge to the
armholes. At the
armholes, the vest is
split into Front, Back,
and opposite Front.
Shoulders are sewntogether. The Hood
is worked by picking
up stitches around
the neck and working
toward the top, then
sewn together across
last row.
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STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,
page 8.
TUNISIAN REVERSE STITCH,
page 10.
KNIT 2 TOGETHER,page 11.REVERSE KNIT 2
TOGETHER, page 11.
The self-striping yarn wont react
the same in short spans of fabric
as it will in long spans of fabric.
To achieve the same look in the
smaller expanses of fabric, try
using the 2-Color or 3-ColorTechniques on page 12.
BODYWith Tunisian hook, ch {156-172}
{188-204-220}.
Foundation Row (Right side):
Pull up a loop in horizontal bar of
second ch from hook and eachch across (Fig. 5, page 6), close:
{156-172}{188-204-220} sts.
Rows 1-4: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks, (work trs, work tks)
across, close.
Rows 5 thru {39-41}{43-45-47}:
Skip first vertical bar, work tks
across, close.
Row {40-42}{44-46-48}
(Decrease row): Skip first verticalbar, work tks across working
6 evenly spaced decreases
(k2tog) across, close: {150-166}
{182-198-214} tks.
Rows {41-43}{45-47-49} and
{42-44}{46-48-50}: Skip first
vertical bar, work tks across,
close.
Next 6 Rows: Repeat last
3 rows twice: {138-154}
{170-186-202} tks.
Next 9 Rows: Skip first vertical
bar, work tks across, close.
NECK SHAPING
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across to last3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last
st, close: {136-152}
{168-184-200} sts.
Rows 2-4: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close.
Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-4:
{134-150}{166-182-198} tks.
FIRST FRONTARMHOLE SHAPING
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work {22-26}
{30-34-38} tks, revk2tog, work
tks in next st, leave remaining{106-118}{130-142-154} tks
unworked, close: {26-30}
{34-38-42} tks.
Rows 2-4: Skip first vertical ba
work tks across to last 3 sts,
revk2tog, work tks in last st,
close: {23-27}{31-35-39} tks.
Row 5: Skip first vertical bar,k2tog, work tks across to last
3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in las
st, close: {21-25}{29-33-37} tk
Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 2-5:
{16-20}{24-28-32} tks.
FOR SIZE LARGE ONLY
Row 10: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across to last 3 sts,revk2tog, work tks in last st,
close: 27 sts.
Row 11: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across to last
3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in las
st, close: 25 sts.
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ALL SIZES
Next {3-2}{2-2-1} Row(s): Skip
first vertical bar, work tks across,
close.
Next Row: Skip first vertical bar,k2tog, work tks across, close:
{15-19}{23-24-31} tks.
Repeat last {4-3}{3-3-2} rows,
{5-7}{9-10-16} times: {10-12}
{14-14-15} tks.
Last {7-11}{5-2-5} Rows: Skip
first vertical bar, work tks across,
close.
Finish off.
BACK
Row 1: With right side facing,
skip next {7-9}{11-13-15} sts
from First Front and join yarn with
slip st in next st (counts as first
tks); work {63-67}{71-75-79} tks,
leave remaining {35-41}{47-53-59} tks unworked, close:
{64-68}{72-76-80} tks.
Rows 2 thru {8-7}{7-8-9}: Skip
first vertical bar, k2tog, work tks
across to last 3 sts, revk2tog,
work tks in last st, close: {50-56}
{60-62-64} tks.
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Last {32-35}{37-38-39} Rows:
Skip first vertical bar, work tks
across, close.
SECOND FRONT
Row 1: With right side facing,
skip next {7-9}{11-13-15} stsfrom Back and join yarn with
slip st in next st (counts as
first st of row); k2tog, work tks
across to last 3 sts, revk2tog,
work tks in last st, close: {26-30}
{34-38-42} tks.
Rows 2-4: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across, close:
{23-27}{31-35-39} tks.
Row 5: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across to last
3 sts, revk2tog, tks in last st,
close: {21-25}{29-33-37} tks.
Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 2-5:
{16-20}{24-28-32} tks.
FOR SIZE LARGE ONLY
Row 10: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across, close:
27 sts.
Row 11: Skip first vertical bar,
k2tog, work tks across to last
3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last
st, close: 25 sts.
ALL SIZES
Next {3-2}{2-2-1} Rows: Skip
first vertical bar, work tks across,
close.
Next Row: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across to last 3 sts,revk2tog, work tks in last st,
close: {15-19}{23-24-31} tks.
Repeat last {4-3}{3-3-2} rows,
{5-7}{9-10-16} times: {10-12}
{14-14-15} tks.
Last {7-11}{5-2-5} Rows: Skip
first vertical bar, work tks across,
close.
Finish off.
Sew shoulder seams (Figs. 38a
& b, page 13).
HOODRow 1: With right side facing
and Tunisian hook, join yarnon right Front for right-handers
(left Front for left-handers) with
slip st in end of seventh row
down from shoulder seam
(Fig 42, page 50), slip st in
next row (counts as first st),
pick up loops in remaining
5 rows, work tks across {30-32}
{32-34-34} unworked sts of Back
neck, pick up loops in end of
first 6 rows from shoulder seam,
close: {42-44}{44-46-46} sts.
Rows 2-12: Skip first vertical b
YO (Fig. 35, page 13), work tk
across to last st, YO, tks in las
st, close: {64-66}{66-68-68} st
Rows 13 thru {68-70}
{72-72-72}: Skip first vertical bwork tks across, close.
Finish off.
Sew top seam.
BUTTON BANDSee Basic Crochet Stitches,
page 50.
Row 1 (Right side): With right
side facing and using standard
crochet hook, join yarn with sc
to Row 1 of Front (see Joining
With Sc, page 50), ch 1, sc
evenly across end of rows end
in end of Row 1 of Second Fro
(Fig 43, page 50).
Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in each
across.
Place a marker 2" (6.5 cm)
down from Neck Shaping on
right Front for first buttonhole
placement.
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Row 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc
across to marker, ch 2, skip next
3 sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 2, skip
next 3 sc, sc in next sc and in
each sc across.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in eachsc across to next ch-2 sp, 3 sc
in ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc
in next ch-2 sp, sc in each sc
across.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc
across; finish off.
ARMHOLE TRIMRnd 1: With right side facing andstandard crochet hook, join yarn
with sc in first unworked st at
underarm; sc evenly around; join
with slip st to first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc
around; join with slip st to first sc,
finish off.
Repeat for second armhole.
Sew buttons on left Front
opposite buttonholes.
{15-151/2}{151/2-16-16}"
HOOD
{10-101/4}{101/4-103/4-103/4}"
{21/4-23/4}
{31/4-31/4-31/2}" {113/4-13}{14-141/2-15}"
BACK
BODY
{311/2-351/4}{39-423/4-461/2}"
{363/4-401/2}{441/4-48-513/4}"
Note: Dashed lines indicate Hood worked onto
Vest.
FRONTFRONT
{13-
131/4}{133/4-
133/4-
133/4}"
{71/2-
8}
{81/2-
83/4-
9}"
{121/2-
13}
{1
31/4-
133/4-
14}"
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Size Finished Chest
Measurement
Extra Small 32" (81.5 cm)
Small 36" (91.5 cm)
Medium 40" (101.5 cm)
Large 44" (112 cm)
Extra Large 48" (122 cm)
Size Note: Instructions are written with sizes Extra Small and Small
in the first set of braces { } and sizes Medium, Large, and Extra
Large in the second set of braces. Instructions will be easier to
read if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only one
number is given, it applies to all sizes.
MATERIALS
Lace Weight Yarn
[5,040 yards (4609 meters) per cone]:
One cone
Minimum length of 14" (35.5 cm) Tunisian hook,
size K (6.5 mm) orsize needed for gauge
Standard crochet hooks, sizes E (3.5 mm) and
K (6.5 mm)
Split-ring stitch markers - 2
Safety pin
GAUGE: With Tunisian hook and two strands ofyarn held together,
15.5 tks and 15.5 rows = 4" (10 cm)
(after blocking)
Please refer to gauge on page 50.
mitered
VESTThe Vest is worked
in one piece, starting
at the bottom of the
Bodice, separating
at the shoulders to
work the front Bodice
sections. Then, the
lower back armhole is
picked up and joined to
the fronts, working thelower body in one piece.
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The Vest is worked holding
two strands of yarn together
throughout. If you are using a
yarn that is on a cone, you will
need to loosely wind a large ball
to use as one strand of yarn and
hold it together with the yarn from
the cone. Cut four 24" (61 cm)
lengths of yarn and set aside forunderarm joining.
STITCH GUIDETUNISIAN KNIT STITCH,
page 8.
TUNISIAN EXTENDED
STITCH, page 10.
KNIT 2 TOGETHER,page 11.
REVERSE KNIT 2
TOGETHER, page 11.
YARN OVER, page 12.
MAKE ONE, page 12.
Tunisian Knit Stitch may tend to
curl; once blocked the fabric will
relax.
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BODICEBACK
With Tunisian hook, ch {42-48}
{52-56-58}.
Foundation Row (Right side): Pull up
a loop in horizontal bar of second ch
from hook and each ch across (Fig. 5,page 6), close: {42-48}{52-56-58} tss.
Rows 1 thru {5-5}{5-6-6}: Skip first
vertical bar, k2tog, work tks across to l
3 sts, revk2tog, work tks in last st, clos
{32-38}{42-44-46} tks.
Rows {6-6}{6-7-7} thru {28-30}
{32-34-36}: Skip first vertical bar, work
tks across, close.
FIRST SHOULDER SHAPING
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, work {7-9
{11-11-11} tks, leave remaining {24-28
{30-32-34} sts unworked, close: {8-10
{12-12-12} tks.
Rows 2-10: Skip first vertical bar, work
tks across, close.
FIRST FRONT
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, YO, work
tks across, close: {9-11}{13-13-13} sts
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar, M1 , wor
tks across, close.
Row 3: Skip first vertical bar, work tks
across, close.
Rows 4-24: Repeat Rows 1-3, 7 times
{16-18}{20-20-20} tks.
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MITERED SHAPING
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar,
work {7-8}{9-9-9} tks, YO, work
{8-9}{10-10-10} tks, close:
{17-19}{21-21-21} sts.
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across to next YO, YO,M1, YO, work tks across, close:
{19-21}{23-23-23} sts.
Rows 3 thru {5-7}{9-11-13}:
Skip first vertical bar, work tks
across to next YO, M1, YO, work
tks in next tks, YO, M1, work tks
across, close: {25-31}
{37-41-45} sts.
Finish off.
SECOND SHOULDER
SHAPING
Row 1: With right side facing
and Tunisian hook, skip {16-18}
{18-20-22} sts from first shoulder
and join yarn with slip st as for
tks in next st (counts as first st);
work tks across, close: {8-10}{12-12-12} tks.
Rows 2-10: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across, close.
SECOND FRONT
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, wo
tks across to last st, YO, work tk
in last st, close: {9-11}{13-13-13
sts.
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar, wo
tks across to next YO, M1, worktks, close.
Row 3: Skip first vertical bar, wo
tks across, close.
Rows 4- 24: Repeat Rows 1-3,
times: {16-18}{20-20-20} tks.
MITERED SHAPING
Row 1: Skip first vertical bar, wo{7-8}{9-9-9} tks, YO, work {8-9}
{10-10-10} tks, close:
{17-19}{21-21-21} sts.
Row 2: Skip first vertical bar,
work tks across to next YO, YO,
M1, YO, work tks across, close:
{19-21}{23-23-23} sts.
Rows 3 thru {5-7}{9-11-13}:Skfirst vertical bar, work tks across
to next YO, M1, YO, work tks in
next tks, YO, M1, work tks acros
close; at end of last row, do not
finish off place loop onto a safety
pin: {25-31}{37-41-45} sts.
First Underarm Joining: With
right side facing and using large
size standard crochet hook, join
two strands of 24" (61 cm) yarn
with slip st in last st on last row,
ch {8-10}{12-14-16}, being care
not to twist Body, slip st in first s
Row 1 of Back; finish off.
FRONT
BODICE
FRONT
BODICE
BODICE
BACK
{103/4-121/4}
{131/2-141/2-15}"
WAIST
{441/2-50}{551/4-591/4-63}"
{81/4-93/4}
{103/4-111/4-113/4}"
{71/2-
8}{81/2-
9-
91/2}"
{10-
101/2}
{11-
111/2-
12}"
{103/4-121/4}{131/2-141/2-15}"
Note: Dashed lines
indicate continuous
rows.
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Second Underarm Joining:
With right side facing and using
larger size standard crochet
hook, join remaining two strands
of 24" (61 cm) yarn with slip st
in last st on Row 1 of Back; ch
{8-10}{12-14-16}, being careful
not to twist Body, slip st in first stof last row of Second Front; finish
off.
BODYSkip tks on Fronts and Back
where slip sts are worked.
Row 1: Place loop from safety
pin onto Tunisian hook, skipfirst vertical bar, work tks across
to next YO, M1, YO, work tks
in next tks, YO, M1, work tks
across to next ch, pull up a loop
in next {8-10}{12-14-16} chs,
work tks across Back, pull up
a loop in next {8-10}{12-14-16}
chs, work tks across to next YO,
M1, YO, work tks in next tks,
YO, M1, work tks across, close:{112-134}{154-170-184} sts.
Rows 2-11: Skip first vertical
bar, # work tks across to next
YO, M1, YO, work tks in next
tks, YO, M1; repeat from # once
more, work tks across, close:
{152-174}{194-210-224} sts.
WAIST SHAPING
Determine the center {32-42}
{48-54-60} sts on row, place
stitch marker before first st
and after last st (see Markers,
page 50). The center {32-42}
{48-54-60} sts are the Back.
Move stitch markers up as workprogresses so that these sts
are always between the stitch
markers.
Rows 1-10: Skip first vertical
bar, work tks across to next YO,
M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO,
M1, work tks across to within
2 sts of marker, revk2tog, work
tks across to next marker, k2tog,work tks across to next YO, M1,
YO, work tks in next tks, YO, M1,
work tks across, close:
{172-194}{214-230-244} sts.
Rows 11-18: Skip first vertical
bar, work tks across to next YO,
M1, YO, work tks in next tks, YO,
M1, work tks across to within
4 sts of marker, revk2tog twice,work tks across to next marker,
k2tog twice, work tks across
to next YO, M1, YO, work tks
in next tks, YO, M1, work tks
across, close.
Row 19: Ch 1 (counts as first
st), skip first vertical bar, work tes
across, close.
Bind Off Row: Ch 1, skip first
vertical bar, work tes across,
close; finish off.
TRIMSFRONT
Row 1 (Right side): With right
side facing and smaller size
standard crochet hook, join yawith sc in end of Bind-Off Row
(see Joining With Sc, page 5
sc evenly across end of rows t
Back, sc in each st across Bac
sc evenly across end of rows,
ending in end of Bind Off Row
Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn; sc
each sc across.
Finish off.
ARMHOLE
Rnd 1: With right side facing a
smaller size standard crochet
hook, join yarn with sc in free
loop of first ch at either undera
(Fig. 41, page 50); sc evenly
around; join with slip st to first
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st an
in each sc around; join with slip
to first sc, finish off.
Repeat around second armhol
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ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)
cm centimeters
k2tog knit 2 together
M1 make one
mm millimeters
revk2tog reverse knit 2 together
Rnd(s) Round(s)
sc single crochet(s)
st(s) stitch(es)tks Tunisian Knit Stitch
tes Tunisian Extended Stitch
tps Tunisian Purl Stitch
trs Tunisian Reverse Stitch
tss Tunisian Simple Stitch
YO yarn over
general
INSTRUCTIONS# work instructions following #
as many more times as
indicated in addition to the
first time.
( ) or [ ] work enclosed
instructions as many times as
specified by the number
immediately following orwork
all enclosed instructions in thestitch or space indicated or
contains explanatory remarks.
colon (:) the number(s) given after
a colon at the end of a row or
round denote(s) the number of
stitches you should have on that
row or round.
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GAUGEExact gauge is essential for proper
size. Before beginning your project,
make a sample swatch in the yarn
and hook specified in the individual
instructions. After completing the
swatch, measure it, counting yourstitches and rows carefully. If your
swatch is larger or smaller than
specified, make another, changing
hook size to get the correct
gauge. Keep trying until you find
the size hook that will give you the
specified gauge.
MARKERSAs a convenience to you, we have
used markers to help distinguish
the beginning of a pattern. Place
markers as instructed. When you
reach a marker on each row, slip
it from the left needle to the right
needle; remove it when no longer
needed.
JOINING WITH SCWhen instructed to join with sc,
begin with a slip knot on hook. Insert
hook in stitch or space indicated,
YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw
through both loops on hook.
BACK LOOP ONLYWork only in loop(s) indicated
by arrow (Fig. 40).
FREE LOOPS OF A
CHAINWhen instructed to work in freeloops of a chain, work in loop
indicated by arrow (Fig. 41).
BASIC
CROCHET
STITCHESSLIP STITCH(abbreviated slip st)
To work a slip stitch, insert
hook in stitch indicated, YO
and draw through st and
through loop on hook(Fig. 42).
SINGLE CROCHET(abbreviated sc)
Insert hook in stitch indicated,
YO and pull up a loop, YO and
draw through both loops on
hook(Fig. 43).
Fig. 4
Fig. 4
Fig. 4
Fig. 4
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The items in this leaflet were made using a variety of yarns. Any brand of the specified weight of yarn may
be used. It is best to refer to the yardage/meters when determining how many balls or skeins to purchaseRemember, to arrive at the finished size, it is the GAUGE/TENSION that is important, not the brand of yar
For your convenience, listed below are the specific yarns used to create our photography models.
STOCKINETTE SCARF
NaturallyCaron.com Country
#0011 Gilded Age
STOCKINETTE HAT
NaturallyCaron.com Country
#0011 Gilded Age
SEED STITCH RUANA
Red Heart Artesano
Variegated - #4375 Exotic
Red Heart Mystic
Green - #0660 Avocado
DROP STITCH COWLKnitting Notions Classic
Merino Superwash Sport
#037 Sicily
DIAGONAL HEARTS CRIB
COVER
Lion Brand Babysoft
#170 Pistachio
yarn
INFORMATION
FELTED DUFFEL
Cascade 220 Wool
Taupe - #8407 Oyster
Green - #8234 Pistachio
CABLED MITTS
Stitch Nation by Debbie
Stroller Alpaca Love
Red - #3920 Ruby
Red Heart Mystic
Green - #0660 Avocado
HOODIE VEST
Premier Yarns, Deborah
Norville CollectionSerenity Garden
#DN800-04 Gems
MITERED VEST
Jagger Spun Zephyr
Wool-Silk
2/18 Lace Weight
Elderberry
HOOK SOURCESSUSAN BATES SILVALUM
ALUMINUM AFGHAN HOO
http://www.coatsandclark.com
BOYE ALUMINUM AFGHA
HOOKS
http://www.simplicity.com
PONY AFGHAN HOOKS
http://itsalljuststring.com
DENISE INTERCHANGEAB
HOOKS
http://www.knitdenise.com
CROCHET ON THE
DOUBLE SWIVEL HOOKS
http://www.anniesattic.com
TULIP CARRY T
INTERCHANGEABLE HOOK
http://www.buycaron.com
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We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete.
We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in
individual work.
Production Team: Instructional/Technical Editor - Lois J. Long; Editorial Writer - Susan McManus
Johnson; Senior Graphic Artist - Lora Puls; Graphic Artists - Dana Vaughn, Becca Snider and
Stacy Owens; Photo Stylist - Brooke Duszota; and Photographer - Jason Masters.
Copyright 2012 by Leisure Arts, Inc., 5701 Ranch Drive, Little Rock, AR 72223 www.leisurearts.
com. All rights reserved. This publication is protected under federal copyright laws. Reproduction
or distribution of this publication or any other Leisure Arts publication, including publications which
are out of print, is prohibited unless specifically authorized. This includes, but is not limited to, any
form of reproduction or distribution on or through the Internet, including posting, scanning, or
e-mail transmission.
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