Travel&Leisure

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« I scanned the menu printed on silkuntil I found the guchhi (morelmushroom biryani) Nandurirecommended. Just the rightcombination of cloves, cinnamon,ginger, and cardamom make this dishdelicious. (www.sheraton.com/maurya)

she implored. "She's a doll and has awonderful Italian restaurant:'

Italian food in Delhi? It made sensewhen Dalmia explained that quite sometime ago she went to Italy on behalf ofher family's marble business and fell in

Artisans fromvarious areas ofIndia create and

display their workin a courtyard

behind The CraftsMuseum in Delhi

The sights,sounds, andaromas ofThe Spice

Market in OldDelhi provide a •

feast forthe senses

Other dining tips came from HallieCampbell, who grew up in La Jolla andnow lives in London where she writesabout India for Conde Nast Traveler.

love with the cuisine. Today the Indianchef operates Diva, a chic dining spot inan upscale neighborhood, as well as therestaurant in the Italian embassy.

wine list, so while the meals areexcellent, the 17pages of internationalofferings are truly remarkable.Wine Spectator says it's "one of thebest wine lists in the world:'(www.diva-italian.com )

I also used my insider sources to sortout Delhi's many shopping options.Campbell and the AA flight attendantsrecommended Dilli Haat. This open-airarts and crafts market was alsosuggested by Del Mar resident JasGrewal, a native ofIndia who visitsseveral times a year.

"The prices aren't inflated for tourists,and they charge 15 rupees (36 cents)admission, which keeps the beggarsout:' she told me.

As we entered the marketplace, I swearI could feel my pulse quicken. Spreadbefore us were close to 200 stalls ladenwith colorful shawls, Western andIndian clothing, beautiful woventablecloths, exotic embroideries, andbolts of vibrant textiles.

The goods at Dilli Haat are from all overIndia - brought to Delhi by the ruralartisans who create them. Each vendorcan describe the process and history ofhis craft. I learned, for instance, that theoft-coveted pashmina shawl is madefrom cashmere wool that comes fromHimalayan goats. It can be blendedwith silk or sheep's wool, made to singleor double thickness, be embroidered orplain - all of which significantlyimpacts the price. I also learned that ashatoosh, a scarf woven from very rareantelope hair - in an effort to protectthe animal - is outlawed in manycountries (but sold under the counterin India). (www.dillihaat.org)

Dilli Haat was crowded, but myhusband and I were almost the onlyshoppers at the stalls behind the CraftMuseum. I am grateful to a fellowtraveler who told us about this spot »

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« where we watched block printing,weaving, and delicate painting onlacquer boxes. (www.travelgodelhi.com)

The Red Fort andJama Masjid, Indiislargest mosque, are Old Delhi's topattractions, but weu been urged to seeHumayuris Tomb, where the gardenshave recently been restored. Here wefound a stunning Mughal tomb madefrom red sandstone and white marblein a beautiful park-like settingcrisscrossed by walking paths.Coconut Lagoon

is a lakesideretreat wherebridges crossnarrow canals

and guests stayin heritagehomes thathave been

brought ontothe site

For designer clothing, my favorite shopis Anokhi, which has more than adozen locations in India, includingthree in Delhi. Here I spotted a cottonquilted block print jacket for about $30(think $300 at Nordstrom). Fabindia,also with multiple locations, remindedme of Crate & Barrel. In contrast to themodern shops, the expansive spicemarket in Old Delhi is colorful,crowded, and uniquely Indian.(www.anokhi.com, www.fabindia.com)

After a warm day of touring, I thoughtofNanduri's comment that "India -like no other place - can put you in themood for a poor She suggested we stayat either the The TajMahal Hotel or theOberoi in New Delhi because "they have

The Tis theof th{wife,ShahHum,great

We opted for the Taj and lovedeverything about it, including theAyurvedic spa, which offers a specialjet-lag recovery treatment, and thespecial amenities and services ofThe Taj Club. Over breakfast in TheTaj Club lounge, we enjoyed a view ofHumayaris Tomb on the horizon.(www.tajhotels.com)

In Agra we stayed at the fabulousOberoi Amarvilas - one of the tophotels in the world and the onlylodging that provides a view of theTaj Mahal from every room.(www.oberoihotels.com)

Coconut Lagoon was our home inKerala. Here, 50 heritage houses havebeen moved onto a lush 17-acrelakefront site crisscrossed by canalsand wooden bridges.

"See if you can get one of their poolvillas:' Campbell suggested. We did,and like the rest of our trip - thanksto our friends - it was wonderful.(www.cghearth.com) - Elizabeth Hansen,

photography by Adams/Hansen Stock Photos