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AcknowledgementsLauren Mullinder Antonia Hauser Marianne, William and Hedwig Rochner Stevie van Buuren Devathi ParashuramGeorge and Jane Brestal Gabriela G Hotel Elefant Andreas Lehner Rudolf Juan Miguel Rietscher and Jasmine Beckert Juliana Martínez Thomas Witzmann Harm Hoogeveen Debbie Sheldon Sandeman’s New Europe Tours

All photography and text by Prerna Ashok unless otherwise stated.

From the Creative Director

Travelling through Europe in the autumn is a magical experience—you get spectacular colours and sceneries from the changing foliage, without the worry of snow bringing cities and transport to a stop.

While all of the cities I visited had their own unique charm, the ones I was expecting to enjoy the most were a fantastic experience, but the ones I fell in love with were something else...I enjoyed my time in every city, and even the train journeys were fun. The Eurail Pass is the easiest way of getting around Europe if you’re only there for a few weeks. The ease with which I was able to board a train, take in the scenery and prepare myself for the next destination was the

Prague . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Austria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Amsterdam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26London Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Contents

least stressful part of the entire holiday. I highly recommend it over booking several flights that take the same amount of time as the train, because you don’t have the hassle of getting to the airport, checking in luggage, and expensive taxis.

As always, I also highly recommend a little research and planning in advance so that meals and transport are easy to deal with in a new city, but allow yourself time and effort to discover new places and hideaway gems.

Pack light, and don’t forget passport, tickets, money and camera!

Prague – the Paris of the East – a city that’s slowly shaking off the shackles of its past and embracing the ideals of Western Europe.

The Czech are a proud people and will not allow non-natives to butcher their language or corrupt their way of life. Despite their apparent hostility Prague is a spectacular city with breathtaking architecture, a turbulent history and winding cobblestones that very easily transport travellers to a medieval fairy tale.

Prague Castle stands proud on a hill in the New Town overlooking all of Prague—in the Autumn the changing colours of the leaves coupled with the burst of sunlight in the evening creates awesome postcard perfect panoramas. It is easy to see why people fall in love with this city.

Unlike Paris where the Left Bank and Right Bank are exclusive to certain groups and professions, the bridges in this city merely connect the two halves of Prague.

The most famous bridge, the Charles Bridge, was built using traditional materials but is held together with egg yolks; an ingenious addition that highlights the creativity and innovation that the Bohemians are famous for.

The exclusive Jewish Quarter that started as a ghetto three metres below the natural level of the land now boasts Art Deco style apartments with neo-Rococo facades. Designer boutiques and bespoke bars blend in with the intricate walls and add to the affluent vibe. However, the past lingers and is ever- present in the synagogues and cemeteries—the most famous of which is a small block of land where 10,000 Jews are buried on top of each other to compensate for the limited space.

For those on a tighter budget Wenceslas Square is a thriving shopping precinct lined with stores akin to Oxford Street in London. Here tourists feel more at ease—shopping anywhere in the world is more or less the same, with groups of

Bohemian RhapsodyWalking down the twisted cobbled lanes through the Old Town and

Jewish Quarter gives a sense of walking through an art deco-themed fairy tale. The City of Bridges oozes style and sophistication.

Travel Tip:The Charles Bridge, Astronomical Clock and Prague Castle are popular tourist attractions, subsequently attracting a number of pickpokets. Take extra precautions at these locations

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teenagers selecting clothes off the rack and dismissing them almost instantly, young women flicking aimlessly through the hangers during their lunch break, and others on a mission to find the perfect party dress. Not forgetting the lines to the change rooms and uninspired staff pick-ing up and folding clothes.

The crowd in front of the Astronomical Clock is almost as big as the shopping crowd. The locals regard this feat of engineering in the same way the Parisians view the Eiffel Tower, but this does not deter hoards of tourists waiting with bated breath for the 2pm performance. To truly appreciate Europe’s most overrated (or second most overrated, depending on which country you are in) attraction one must learn how to read the clock and interpret the mysterious symbols. Every element tells a story and represents Bohemia’s past; this clock was the igadget of the Middle Ages.

In the same vein, the John Lennon wall is hardly mentioned by tour guides. Those who do mention it regard it as an excuse for graffiti artists, tourists and vandals to leave their mark on the city.

However, the history of the wall as a ral-lying point for anti-communists is com-pelling and it is yet another feature that stands proud.

Alfonse Mucha, a well-known and celebrated Bohemian artist, captured the essence of the Bohemians during the late-19th century with his intricate, detailed Art Nouveau illustrations that were seen everywhere—from restaurant cards, bank notes and theatre posters. The intricacies and complexities exist even today in the Czech culture. Franz Kafka, another famous Bohemian, worked in insurance during the day and wrote at night—again, his life encapsulates the conflict between earning a living and freeing the creative spirit, something that represents this city and its people well.

Images (clockwise from top-left): View of Prague Castle from the Old Town; the Astronomical Clock; the Gothic Týn Church; statue of Franz Kafka; vintage cars parked in the Old Town square.

Feature | Prague

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Eat, Play, See | Prague

JosefovThe beautiful Jewish Quarter and the smallest cadastral area of Prague is completely surrounded by Old Town and filled with stunning art deco and rococo buildings that houses fashionable boutiques, cafes, bars and restaurants. There are a number of historically noteworthy sites such as Kafka’s birthplace, synagogues, and cemeteries. But one could easily wander the narrow, winding streets simply admiring the architecture or sipping a cup of coffee while watching local passers-by.

Dali-Mucha ExhibitionThe world’s first Mucha Museum, dedicated to the world-famous art nouveau artist offers a selection of over 100 paintings, charcoal drawings, photographs, lithographs and personal memorabilia. Dali’s work shares this space with some of his graphic works, sculptures, ceramic and photographsOpen daily from 10am - 8pm Staroměstské náměstí 15, Prague 1

AbsintherieA bar dedicated to a single spirit is hard to come by, but at the Absintherie you can choose from a large variety of the spirit from different distilleries, alcohol proof, cocktails, hot drinks, absinthe beer and even absinthe tea and coffee.

Open daily from 10:00am – 11:00pm Jilská, 110 00 Prague

Tkalcovský Dvůr This Czech pub is tucked away a little fur-ther from the Charles Bridge in the New Town. The food is homely and cheap with generous portions. Excellent Czech beer and wine, and a laid-back atmosphere make this the perfect place to wind down after a busy day of sightseeing.

Open daily from 11:00am - 12:00am U lužického semináře 104/28, Prague

CertovkaCertovka offers diners a semi-formal din-ing experience with a variety of traditional Bohemian dishes featuring poultry and meat served with cabbage and potatoes. Reasonably priced with a deck area where diners can enjoy a meal with views of the river and the Old Town.

Open daily from 11:30am to 11:30pm U Lužického semináře 24, Prague

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Sandeman’s New Europe ToursSandeman tours are a fantastic way to start exploring a new city—for centuries Prague has been sweeping visitors off their feet with its romantic streets, soaring towers, and great beer! From the heart of medieval Bohemia to the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, the glo-ry days of Prague’s rich culture are shadowed by oppression, under both the Nazis and the Communists. The expert guides bring to life the legends and take you in the footsteps of Kafka, Good King Wenceslas, and the Golem.

Free tours start at the Old Town Square Start Point at 10:45am and 2:00pm

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Pilsner was first produced in the city of Pilsen, Bohemia, in 1842. The original Pilsner Urquell beer is still produced there today.The Czech-style Pilsner is golden, full of colours, has high foaminess and a lighter flavour. Common Czech Pilsners:Pilsner UrquellGambrinusKozelSvijanyStaropramenRadegastTuzlanski pilsner

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Vienna is Paris’ older, gentile cousin with majestic and elegant buildings that house boutiques and cages. Despite the aura of affluence and high-culture, the city welcomes travellers and does not let them pass through without experience its finer side. From the world-renowned Sacher torte to standing seats at the Staatsoper high-culture is accessible to all.

For those who want to experience refined hospitality the Hotel Sacher restaurant offers a high tea service unlike any other. However, Café Sacher and its friendly staff welcome all. Similarly, the staff at the Staatsoper do not discriminate and patrons in the standing seats are treated with no less respect and courtesy than the aficionados in boxes.

Fans of Marie Antoinette’s style will be even more impressed by her grandmother Marie Thérèse who left her unique mark on Schönnbrunn Palace. Decorated in the neo-Rococo style that Marie Thérèse

preferred, it is sumptuous, grandiose, and glamorous with each room boasting exotic furniture and artefacts.

Although the gardens at Schönnbrunn are a fraction the size of Versailles, the crisp autumn air and changing colours of the leaves make for a very pleasant walk up the small hill to the Gloriette. There a café offers visitors light refreshments and small meals that are reasonably prices and come with a stunning panoramic view of Vienna.

Art lovers head for the Belvedere which houses an impressive collection of Austro-Hungarian art including Gustav Klimt’s renowned painting The Kiss and other impressive pieces. After spending the morning at the Belvedere a short tram ride leads the hungry traveller to the Naschmarkt. This is a foodie’s paradise with fresh vegetables and luscious fruit in abundance. Here one can also find exotic spices and sweetmeats that Turkish immigrants cannot live without.

Austrian EleganceThe majesty and elegance of Austria reflects on the Hapsburg reign—

this was a time when women in the monarchy had a great deal of influence on politics and culture. Revel in their legacy as the Austrians

welcome you graciously.

Images on opposite page (clockwise from top): View of Vienna from the Gloriette at Schönnbrunn; fresh fruit and vegetables at the Naschmarkt; St Peter’s cemetery, Salzburg, view of Nonberg Abbey from Mozart Square, Salzburg; the Staatsoper, Vienna; The Sound of Music Pavillon at Hellbrunn Palace, SalzburgThis page: Greek mythological statue at Hellbrunn Palace.

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One can see how contemporary café culture originated in Vienna. The city is famous for its numerous cafes which range from cosy, boho-chic establishments to grand halls and sumptuous rooms filled with well-dressed waiters and hostesses weaving through the room with trays and trolleys laden with delicious pastries, cakes and tarts.

Travellers lucky enough to be in Vienna during the Christmas and holiday season can also partake in the festivities with locals at the Christmas markets. The scent of roasting chestnuts mingles with sizzling bratwurst and spices from the punsch. Freshly baked bread adds to the festive spirit and many stalls showcase seasonal crafts and knick-knacks that make for unique souvenirs and presents.

During this time of year the small city of Salzburg sparkles with shops competing against each other to show off their festive wares. It’s a unique experience walking through a cave-like shop covered from floor to ceiling with boxes, baskets and crates overflowing with baubles that on closer inspection are made from eggshells! Next door, breathing is impossible when surrounded by that much crystal and glass sparkling and twinkling under the incandescent lights.

The high tea culture is present at Café Tomaselli, one of Mozart’s many residences in Salzburg, but for authentic Salzburg cuisine one must venture through the numerous passages and alleyways that lead to courtyards where, even during the colder months, laughter and music can be heard. Follow the comforting smell of food and sound of crackling fires and you’ll be greeted warmly and welcomed to try the regional specialities and a stein of beer.

Although the movie The Sound of Music was released over 40 years ago, it was shown for the first time in Salzburg in 2011. Despite this, there are a number of tours that take fans to the film locations. Despite its fame, Salzburg retains its peaceful atmosphere and natural beauty. Walking along the tree-lined river bank one can admire the UNESCO World Heritage listed façade that protects the city with Nonberg Abbey greeting visitors from its precarious position on a cliff high above the city.

The plazas in the city are a hub of activity with temporary ice-skating rinks, outdoor bars serving gluhwein and punsch (a very necessary survival tactic during the cold months), sculptures, art, buskers and market stalls selling souvenirs and odd bits and pieces.

There can be no greater pleasure, when travelling, than discovering a city of foot and in your own time. Salzburg is filled with hidden gems – the St Peters church cemetery is one of the most beautiful and colourful in Europe and although there are numerous chocolatiers and sweet shops, only Confiserie Josef Holzermayr makes the Paris Exhibition award-winning Mozartkugel using the same recipe since 1890.

With its bustling cities, rolling countryside and warm people Austria is an unforgettable destination. Despite its proximity to and history with Germany and Hungary, Austria retains its culture and makes it accessible for everyone.

Feature | Austria

Travel Tip:The Staatsoper offers opera-lovers and tourists standing tickets starting from €3, but be warned that you could spend upto an hour in the line for these tickets. It is best to arrive at the Staatsoper about an hour or two before the show starts and perhaps bring some reading material...

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This page: the Hofburg Palace welcomes visitors with majestic sweeping wings and breathtaking architecture.

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Photograph: Michela Sim

oncini, Flickr

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Notable Viennese coffee houses:

Kaffee Alt Wien – Bäckerstraße 9Café Bräunerhof – Stallburggasse 2 Café Central – in the Palais Ferstel, entrance Herrengasse 14 (corner of Strauchgasse) Cafe Griensteidl – Michaelerplatz (Leo Trotzky’s and many writers of that era favourite cafe)Café Demel – Kohlmarkt 14 Café Hawelka – Dorotheergasse 6Café Landtmann – Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Ring 4 (Sigmund Freud’s preferred café)Hotel Sacher – Philharmonikerstraße 4Café Schwarzenberg – Kärntner Ring 17Café Sperl – Gumpendorferstraße 11Café Museum – Operngasse 7

The Viennese coffee house is described as a place “where time and space are consumed,but only the coffee is found on the bill.”

Eat, Play, See | Austria

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SternbräuA wonderful atmosphere with delicious, authentic Austrian food - the roast goose was a highlight as was the Weißbier. Friendly staff and cosy ambience made this a memorable dining experience.Open daily from 10:00am - 12:00am Griesgasse 23 - 25, Salzburg

Cafe SacherCafé Sacher Vienna offers the perfect typical Viennese coffee-house experience and to treat yourself to a slice of the legendary Sacher-Torte.Open daily from 8:00am - 12:00am Philharmonikerstraße 4, Vienna

S’NockerlThis restaurant is the place to try the local dessert speciality, Nockerl. This is a soft, warm meringue dessert with delicious homemade raspberry jam underneath. Open daily from 11:30am - 11:30pm Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse 4, Salzburg

Outdoor ice rinksEvery year in winter, Mozartplatz in Salzburg’s Old Town is transformed into a winter wonderland with market stands selling punch and mulled wine and a massive ice rink. It is one of the most charming ice rinks in all of Europe where people can skate in the middle of Baroque churches and palaces at the heart of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit www.salzburg.info/en for dates and prices

Schloß SchönnbrunnThe magnificent architecture and the exquisite décor marks Schönbrunn as a cultural treasure. The park at Schönbrunn Palace was opened to the public around 1779 and is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.Open daily from 8:30am Schönbrunner Schlosstraße 47, Vienna

The BelvedereThe former residence of the Prince of Savoy consists of the Museum of Medieval Austrian Art and the Museum of Austrian Baroque; and a second contains the Austrian Gallery. This is a must-see for art-lovers.Open daily from 10am Prinz-Eugen-Straße 27, Vienna

Christmas MarketsFrom mid-November to Christmas, Vienna’s prettiest squares transform into magical Christmas markets. The aroma of Christmas bakery items and hot punch creates a wonderful festive atmosphere. Here visitors and locals can buy handicrafts, food, drink and other seasonal goods.Visit www.wien.info for more details and information about Vienna’s Christmas markets.

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The Sound of Music toursVisitors can take their pick of bus, group, cycling and walking tours that visit all of the famous film locations and give background information on the real Von Trapp family and their lives.A number of hotels and visitor centres will have information on the perfect tour for you.

The Viennese coffee house is described as a place “where time and space are consumed,but only the coffee is found on the bill.”

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Germany is a country made up of very different and diverse states brought together by politics and economy. Bavaria, the largest region, and its inhabitants consider their land to be a separate country—in Munich travellers can learn about Bavaria’s rich history of Kings and Princes, the traditions of Oktoberfest and the Beer Halles, maypoles, and more recently the origins of the Nazi Party and Germany’s changing borders.

In this part of the Germany the younger generation are still feeling the effects and repercussions of the history of the previous generations and they distance themselves from it by embracing Western influences with zeal and vigour, claiming that the whole world is now internationalised and generic. Rather than supporting local businesses and produce in the Viktualienmarkt they opt for Starbucks, cheap Italian restaurants and High Street department stores. Any sign of tradition or artefacts from the past are exploited and exaggerated for the tourists. However, in regional Bavaria the traditional dresses and Beer Halles are still a part of daily life.

In Munich the Beer Halles used to be an institution, but is now fading away. Young men would accompany their fathers to

the halls to be inducted into the ‘club’; eventually, they would inherit the family stein and table at the hall. This was a serious commitment and the Beer Halle rules stipulated that an individual had to drink at the hall at least five times a week for 30 years to be worthy of their own table and the luxury of having the hall staff look after the family stein. Now the dwindling numbers and diminishing tradition have forced owners to change the rules—drink three times a week for 15 years and you’re in.

Aside from the remnant buildings of the Nazi regime the only tribute and acknowledgement to the Holocaust is the golden cobbled path in Dodgers’ Alley, which marks the route taken by anti-Nazi individuals who took this route to avoid saluting to the picture of Hitler down the main road. Unfortunately, the guards realised this and these rebels were subsequently killed by an SS general standing at the end of the path.

The other subtle tribute that can be found in Munich and all over Germany are inconspicuous gold cobbles at the entrance to various buildings and houses. Thanks to the meticulous records it is possible to find out who the previous inhabitants were and whether they were taken to death or concentration camps.

Ich bin ein...This diverse country has much to offer in history, culture, food, drink,

and people—from the unique Bavarian style, laid-back Saxon way of life, exciting ambiance in Berlin, and calm countryside there is

something for everyone and always more to discover.

Images on opposite page (clockwise from top-left): East End Gallery; Maypole representing Bavarian culture; Dodgers’ Alley, Munich; Dresden skyline; the Berlin wall; symbolic representation of Munich overcoming heresy, Marienplatz; sculpture of a woman and child that pays tribute to the victims of WWII.

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These gold cobbles and tiles are usually engraved with the name of the persecuted family, the name of the camp they were sent to and the date they died. It is a melancholic feeling when reading the details on these tiles.

Further north in Dresden the locals are much more relaxed and accepting of their history. The church that was bombed by the Allies now stands proud and tall thanks to the combined efforts of the Americans and British that helped rebuild it. Inside it resembles an opera hall with sweeping balconies, pastel hues and beautiful frescos.

The vivid colours of the evening sky emphasise the age and majesty of the Zwinger and other historical buildings of the old town—the Dresden Palace, the Semperoper and State Theatre. The most enchanting view of the city at twilight is on the other side of the river; the cluster of historic buildings dominates the skyline as they are lit from below.

In a quiet suburb the local pub fills with people drawn to its warmth and promise of hearty, nourishing means accompanied by a carafe of wine produced in the region or a stein of locally brewed beer.

After the peace and quiet of Dresden, Berlin is a booming metropolis, which like any capital city has much to discover and explore. The city oozes panache and culture with its vintage boutiques, street art and contemporary style. This is a city where old and new co-exists without competing. It is incredible to stand in front of buildings and statues that have lasted centuries of turbulence and violence, hear stories about kings, queens, politicians and even civilians who have made the pages of history in this city.

The city is littered with tributes to its history, particularly to the tragedy of World War II. The biggest monument lies in the middle of the city where great blocks of concrete rise majestically form the uneven ground.

Walking through the memorial is an eerie experience—this is a glimpse into the horrors that the victims suffered.

There are also inspiring stories and tributes to the heroes, great and small, who risked their lives in a number of ways in an attempt to stop the tyranny and dictatorship. Unfortunately, there are those who fail to appreciate the magnitude of these events and the impact this history has had and exploit artefacts and objects for commercial purposes.

Artists from all over the world flock to this creative hub to leave their mark on the city. The East Side Gallery and fashionable Mitte areas in Berlin are examples of contemporary street art and social commentary whereas the Museum Island boasts an extensive collection of paintings, monuments and artefacts from all corners of the globe, exemplifying how different styles and trends exist peacefully side by side.

In Berlin food and drink vendors line the streets at tourist hotspots and the irresistible smell of kebabs, sausages (wursts) and gluhwein draw in the crowds. On a wintry day a currywurst and cup of gluhwein really hits the spot!

After the din of Berlin a few days in the countryside is a welcome respite. Heading towards the Dutch border to the town of Rhede where the mist hangs inches off the fields, and the woods appear to be on fire in the autumn with rich coppery hues of the leaves. A leisurely stop at Pralinen Manufatur chocolate factory where visitors can watch the tempering and moulding process behind the glass window as they sip on a hot chocolate and sample the delectable chocolate truffles.

Germany is such a diverse country rich in history and culture—it is one of those countries where there is always more to discover and explore with every visit.

Feature | Germany

Travel Tip:Although Berlin is the biggest city and capital of Germany, there are relatively fewer security cameras and authoritative figures. However, this is a safe and friendly city.

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This page: Georg Elser Memorial sculpture in Wilhelmstraße, Berlin - Elser, a communist carpenter planted a homemade bomb in a brewery in Munich where leading figures of the Nazi regime had gathered, including Joseph Goebbels and Hitler on 8 November 1939. This plot became the best-known instance of homegrown resistance against Hitler during World War II.

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Eat, Play, See | Germany

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Augustiner BräuAugustiner Bräu is Munich’s oldest brewery located in the centre of the Munich pedestrian precinct - between Karlsplatz/Stachus and Marienplatz. Enjoy traditional Bavarian sociability cuisine.Open daily from 10:00am - 12:00am Neuhauser Straße 27, 80331 Munich

Peters BrauhausA cosy little pub in Cologne that serves traditional regional food and, of course, Kölsch beer. The staff are hospitable and the local punters are very friendly and welcoming.Open daily from 11:00am - 12:30am Muhlengasse 1, Cologne

Alte Schankwirtschaft “Zum Schießhaus”The ‘Schießhaus’ as it is known by the locals is a charming house that captures the atmosphere of the historic square. Serving unpretentious hearty Saxon meals, this is the place to be on a cold Autumn or winters’ night.Open daily from 11:00am - 1:00am Am Schießhaus 19, 01067 Dresden

Sandeman’s New Europe ToursSandeman tours are a fantastic way to start exploring a new city—guides are locals and expats who have lived in Germany long enough to learn all of its secrets and local savoir faire.Germany has a long and complex history; tours are rich in detail about the past and present and run year round in Berlin, Munich and Hamburg. Visit www.neweuropetours.eu for more infor-mation and details about tours.

ViktualienmarktThe Viktualienmarkt is a daily food market and a square in the centre of Munich. It is the ultimate sensory experience with fresh fruit, vegetables, sausages, meat, baked goods and even a few beer and wine stalls.Open Monday to Friday from 10:00am - 6:00pm and Saturdays from 10:00am - 3:00pm

The Pergamon MuseumIf you only visit one museum in Berlin, make it The Pergamon. This museum houses original-sized, reconstructed monumental buildings consisting of parts transported from Turkey, and phenomenal Islamic art. Open daily from 10:00am - 6:00pm Bodestraße 3, 10178 Berlin

HofbräuhausThe Staatliches Hofbräuhaus in München is the public Royal Brewery in Munich owned by the Bavarian state government. It was founded in 1589 by the Duke of Bavaria, Wilhelm V and is one of Munich’s oldest beer halls.The brewery owns the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl, the Hofbräukeller and one of the largest tents at the Oktoberfest (Hofbräu-Festzelt).Open daily from 9:00am - 11:30pm Platzl 9, Munich

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Kunsthaus TachelesThe Kunsthaus Tacheles a large building and sculpture park on Oranienburger Straße in the Mitte district. It has a fascinating history as a Jewish department store, Nazi prison, and art and sculpture centre. The Metallwerkstatt still operate in this building despite being evicted and their work is available for purchase.Oranienburger Straße 54-56a, 10117 Berlin

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Notable autobahn laws:The left lane is intended only for overtaking.

Drivers can give a short horn or light signal in order to indicate the intention of overtaking.

In a traffic jam, drivers must form an emergency lane to allow emergency services to reach an accident scene. This “emergency lane” is the middle of the two left lanes.

It is illegal to stop for any reason on the autobahn, except for emergencies and when unavoidable. This includes stopping in emergency lanes.

Running out of fuel is considered an avoidable occurrence, as by law there are petrol stations directly on the autobahn approximately every 50–55 km.

Overtaking on the right (undertaking) is strictly forbidden, except when stuck in traffic jams.

If there is an accident, a driver is obliged to stop and help, whenever and to the degree to which it is possible. Doctors who are not German or living in Germany are obliged to stop and help, unless an ambulance is already at the scene.

Every vehicle must carry a first-aid-kit.

The tires must be approved for the vehicle’s top speed.

Winter tires are compulsory when wintery road conditions are present. M+S tires (mud and snow or all-season) are acceptable.

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Amsterdam is one of those cities that seem to be socially and culturally light years ahead of other Western cities and cultures. The ethos of acceptance and tolerance of all is perceptible in the attitudes of the Dutch people.

This is another tourist-friendly city; there are a number of attractions, monuments and museums to occupy travellers for several days.

Start the day at the Blumenmarkt where there is an infinite choice of tulip bulbs and flowers ranging and size and colour. Walk along the canal towards Centraal Station via the Red Light district, which by day is just another beautiful quarter of Amsterdam.

Past the old Palace and Monument to Amsterdam and let the winding alleyways lead to the bustling city centre. In the affluent Jordaan quarter Anne Frank’s house is a fascinating and moving insight into her family’s life in the Secret Annexe during World War II.

The museum also displays interviews with those who knew the Franks, making her story all the more real. The museum is a humbling encounter with the hardships faced by all Jews during this period in history.

Down the road from the Secret Annexe is a small but unforgettable Tulip Museum where fans of the flower can learn about the history of the tulip and how the Netherlands came to be the Tulip Capital of the world. Of course the gift shop is well stocked with a variety of bulbs and tulip memorabilia.

While on the subject of museums, Rembrandt’s house is a must-see—it showcases his lesser-known passion for copper plate etching. The staff provide detailed demonstrations of the process as well as a quick lesson on mixing paints. For the die-hard painting enthusiasts the Rijksmuseum houses a comprehensive collection of Dutch artists’ works.

Dutch dreamsAmsterdam may be a small city but there are many things to discover about its past, present and future—from artists, monarchs, and the Dutch Resistance to the current social and cultural trends that are paving the way for this socially and culturally advanced city.

Travel Tip:Cyclists always have right of way; pedestrians need to watch out for oncoming cyclists before crossing the road.

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The Van Gogh museum also contains an impressive number of his paintings and work.

The Museum Quarter is not far from eating precincts; Dutch cuisine is far from haute cuisine, but it is comforting and hearty. Amsterdam is now a major international city and has more Italian, Latin American and American restaurants and pubs. A little research is required to find cafes and restaurants that serve traditional Dutch food, but it is worth the effort. Simple flavours and ingredients but the quality of the produce really does make a difference.

An evening canal cruise shows travellers a different side to the city. Unlike the river cruises in Paris or London, the monuments and buildings are far less interesting here in Amsterdam. This is a city where every inch of available space is utilised to its full potential—house boats

are fashionable living spaces and a peek into those along give an insight into the kind of people that live there. Young creatives, hipsters, couples…

Celebrate all that Amsterdam has to offer at the House of Bols, a unique cocktail museum. A ticket includes a brief history of the liqueur, a tantalising guide to our senses, and a cocktail and two shots of Bols flavoured liqueurs in the Mirror Bar. Incidentally, visitors can learn the art of flaring here, although this is unadvisable after consuming the delectable cocktails.

Amsterdam is a mélange of contemporary style and celebration of tradition. Anything can be found here and everyone is welcomed in a way few other European counties do—it is an unforgettable encounter!

Images (clockwise from top-left): Dutch National Museum; an example of traditional Dutch architecture where the weight of the building and use of ceiling hooks have caused the building to lean forward; House of Bols; Rembrandt’s House.

Feature | Amsterdam

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Photograph: Sudhanshu Pran Kaul, Flickr

Eat, Play, See | Amsterdam

Sandeman’s New Europe ToursSandeman tours are a fantastic way to start exploring a new city—guides are locals and expats who have lived in Amsterdam long enough to learn all of its secrets and local savoir faire.Amsterdam is a complex city with an amazing history. The tours run year round on all major holidays except Queen’s Day (April 30th).Free tours start at 11:15am and 3:15pm from the National Monument in Dam Square

Tulip MuseumConveniently located in the heart of historic Amsterdam, near many fine shops, galleries and cafes, the museum features exhibits and films devoted to the tulip, the unofficial national flower of the Netherlands.Explore the tulip’s history and discover the remarkable journey it has taken from the wilds of the Himalayan highlands to a garden like yours.Open daily from 10am - 6pmClosed April 30 and December 25.

Rembrandt’s HouseIn Rembrandt’s printing room and painting studio there are daily demonstrations of how etchings and how paintings were made in the seventeenth century. The Rembrandt House owns an almost complete collection of Rembrandt’s world-famous etchings. Open daily from 10am - 6pm

House of BolsA visit to The House of Bols, Cocktail & Genever Experience on the Museumplein square in Amsterdam, is a unique adventure and an unforgettable interactive experience of the glamorous world of cocktails, liqueurs, bartending and the Dutch spirit Genever. Daily 12:00pm – 6:30pm Friday 12:00pm – 10:00pm Saturday 12:00pm – 8:00pm The minumum age for vistiting House of Bols is 18 years.

Hap-HmmDutch cuisine is traditionally about comfort food and hearty meals. Hap Hmm is one of those rare family restaurants where you are welcomed into the family and can experience home cooking at its best.

Open Monday - Friday from 4:30pm - 8:45pm Eerste Helmersstraat 33, 1054CZ Amsterdam oud-west, Amsterdam

De Blauwe Hollander De Blauwe Hollander offers a higher level of service and refined home cooking and reflects the Dutch culture very well.

The name means ‘The Blue Dutchman’ and is a reference to the blue uniforms of the marines who used to be sent to Indonesia.

Open daily from 12:00pm to 11:00pm Leidsekruisstraat 28, Amsterdam

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To market, to marketNo trip to London is complete without a visit to at least one or two markets. Here is a snapshot of the popular markets and what visitors can expect to find. Whether you are starting a trip in London or ending one, make sure you plan to be there over a weekend to make the most of the markets.

CamdenCamden is a wildly exciting borough of London where all sorts of sub-cultures meet–hippies, punks, goths, hipsters, geeks, yuppies and various others can be found trawling through bins of knick knacks, searching shelves or ambling around enjoying the vibrant atmosphere.The main street is a display of mainstream apparel, boutiques, tattoo parlours, and souvenir shops. In the heart of the markets the Horse Stables houses a number of antiques and speciality stalls where vintage toys, memorabilia and records can be found.

On the other side of the Stables the open air market is packed with makeshift shops selling handicrafts, furnishings and home decor wares, while the indoor market on the banks of the Camden Lock is where visitors can find handmade jewellery, accessories, artwork, prints, and other miscellaneous items. Take your pick, but make sure you have a few hours to properly explore and discover Camden.

Tube stop: Camden Town

Portobello RoadThe antique collector’s mecca—this is where visitors will find the Britons that are excited by history and will happily tell you the story of a piece. The location itself indicates that the price-range of items are at the higher end, but persistence can lead to an affordable piece of jewellery or antique gizmo. Haggling is unadvisable unless the asking price of items is considerably more than the value, but vendors here are serious about antiques and are unlikely to price above the value.

Tube stop: Notting Hill Gate

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Carnaby StreetNot a market in the traditional sense, but a place very few people seem to know of. Carnaby Street was originally the home of 1960s Mod and hippie fashion. Today the boutiques still sell designer clothing but the style pays homage to the culture of the Swinging Sixties with a distinct array of fashion. There are shops that sell a mixture of current and vintage fashion, exclusive and mainstream stores and a number of bars and cafes tucked away in side streets and alleyways.

Tube stop: Oxford Circus

Petticoat Lane and Spitalfield MarketsAmidst the city buildings and offices the Petti-coat Lane and Spitalfield Markets are an addi-tional hub of activity to the hustle and bustle. The Petticoat Lane Market is comprised of a number of stalls run by Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi migrants selling apparel and goods from the sub-continentThe Spitalfield Markets are undercover and here visitors can find all manner of fashion, arts and crafts, and accessories. Cafes and food stalls dotted around the main market area are a convenient spot for a break.

Tube station: Liverpool Street

Southbank Christmas MarketsThe Southbank Christmas markets is a fabulous place to buy seasonal unique gifts and souvenirs. These market stalls are lined along the Thames from the London Eye to the Tate Modern and vendors sell an array of crafts including jewellery, prints, home decor items, and accessories. There are also seasonal decorations, beverages and food items for purchase and immediate consumption.

Tube stop: Waterloo

Feature | London