trans-siberian railway 5 - index...

12
422 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 2014 Olympic Games 350 A accommodation 380-1, see also individual locations costs 380 activities 381-2, see also individual activities air travel to/from the region 394 within the region 396-7 alternative routes 28 Amur region 28 Amur-Yakutsk Mainline 28, 344 ancestor worship 372 animals 377-8, see also individual species animism 356 anklebone shooting 267 archery 267, 12, architecture 20, 373 Běijīng 309 Novosibirsk 161 Tomsk 166 Armoury 62-4 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts China 371-3 Mongolia 364-5 Russia 11, 356-7 Asia–Europe border 149 ATMs 387, 389 AYaM, see Amur-Yakutsk Mainline B baggage allowance 49 Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM) 27, 237-49, 238, 240 accommodation 237 climate 237 highlights 238 itineraries 239 route information 237, 239-41 travel seasons 237 ballet Moscow 82-3, 11 Perm 135 St Petersburg 108 BAM, see Baikal-Amur Mainline banya 73, 352 bargaining 19 Barguzin Valley 15, 205, 15 bathrooms 392 Běihǎi Park 313-14 Běijīng 10, 54, 301-28, 303, 304-5, 310-11, 315, 10 accommodation 301, 314-17 drinking & nightlife 320 food 301, 317-20 highlights 303 history 306 internet resources 302 itineraries 307 medical services 322-3 shopping 321-2 sights 307-14 tourist information 322-4 travel seasons 301, 302 travel to/from 29, 324-6 travel within 302, 326-7 weather 301, 302 Bell, John 347 bicycle travel, see cycling, mountain biking birds 378 birdwatching 204, 377 Birobidzhan 220-1 Blagoveshchensk 218-20 boat travel to/from Russia 396 within Russia 400 boat trips 21, 73 bogie-changing 278 Bolshie Koty 193 Bolshoi Theatre 82, 11 bookings 33-40 books China 50, 341, 367 Mongolia 50, 359, 376 railway history 330, 332, 335, 343 Russia 50, 340, 341, 350, 354, 357, 358 Siberia 146, 335, 345, 346, 348, 349 train travel 50, 339, 345, 347, 348, 349 border crossings 28, 394-5 China–Russia 295 Mongolia–China 280-1 Russia–China 51, 298-9 Russia–Mongolia 51, 254-5 border permits 381-2 Bowie, David 349 Bratsk 241-2 Buddhism Mongolia 363 Russia 355 Buddhist monasteries & temples Aginskoe 217 Amarbayasgant Monastery 257 Choijin Lama Temple Museum 263-4 Gandan Khiid 262 Ivolginsk (Ivolga) Datsan 203 Khamaryn Khiid Monastery 279 Lama Temple 312 Mandshir Khiid 276-7 Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan 197 Tsugol 218 budgeting 17, 28 business hours 387-8 bus travel 400 C calligraphy 371, 372 car travel 400-1 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals cell phones 390-1 churches & cathedrals 337, 354, see also monasteries Alexander Nevsky Cathedral 159 Annunciation Cathedral 62 Archangel Cathedral 62 Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 62 Assumption Cathedral (Vladimir) 118 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour 70 Cathedral of St Dmitry 118 Church of St Sophia 290-1 Church of the Intercession on the Nerl 119 Church on the Spilled Blood 97 St Basil’s Cathedral 65, 21 St Isaac’s Cathedral 100 Chángchūn 296-8 Chekhov, Anton 167 children, travel with 382, 405 China arts 371-3 books 50, 341, 367 climate 16 culture 369-74 currency 16 economy 367 films 342, 367, 372 food 374 history 369-74 languages 16, 406-10 measures 383 newspapers 383 politics 368

Upload: others

Post on 14-Oct-2020

3 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

422 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

2014 Olympic Games 350

Aaccommodation 380-1, see

also individual locationscosts 380

activities 381-2, see also individual activities

air travelto/from the region 394within the region 396-7

alternative routes 28Amur region 28Amur-Yakutsk Mainline

28, 344ancestor worship 372animals 377-8, see also

individual speciesanimism 356anklebone shooting 267archery 267, 12,architecture 20, 373

Běijīng 309Novosibirsk 161Tomsk 166

Armoury 62-4art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts

China 371-3Mongolia 364-5Russia 11, 356-7

Asia–Europe border 149ATMs 387, 389AYaM, see Amur-Yakutsk

Mainline

Bbaggage allowance 49Baikal-Amur Mainline (BAM)

27, 237-49, 238, 240accommodation 237

climate 237highlights 238itineraries 239route information 237,

239-41travel seasons 237

balletMoscow 82-3, 11Perm 135St Petersburg 108

BAM, see Baikal-Amur Mainline

banya 73, 352bargaining 19Barguzin Valley 15, 205, 15bathrooms 392Běihǎi Park 313-14Běijīng 10, 54, 301-28, 303,

304-5, 310-11, 315, 10accommodation 301,

314-17drinking & nightlife 320food 301, 317-20highlights 303history 306internet resources 302itineraries 307medical services 322-3shopping 321-2sights 307-14tourist information 322-4travel seasons 301, 302travel to/from 29, 324-6travel within 302, 326-7weather 301, 302

Bell, John 347bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain bikingbirds 378birdwatching 204, 377Birobidzhan 220-1Blagoveshchensk 218-20boat travel

to/from Russia 396within Russia 400

boat trips 21, 73

bogie-changing 278Bolshie Koty 193Bolshoi Theatre 82, 11bookings 33-40books

China 50, 341, 367Mongolia 50, 359, 376railway history 330, 332,

335, 343Russia 50, 340, 341, 350,

354, 357, 358Siberia 146, 335, 345,

346, 348, 349train travel 50, 339, 345,

347, 348, 349border crossings 28, 394-5

China–Russia 295Mongolia–China 280-1Russia–China 51, 298-9Russia–Mongolia 51,

254-5border permits 381-2Bowie, David 349Bratsk 241-2Buddhism

Mongolia 363Russia 355

Buddhist monasteries & temples

Aginskoe 217Amarbayasgant

Monastery 257Choijin Lama Temple

Museum 263-4Gandan Khiid 262Ivolginsk (Ivolga)

Datsan 203Khamaryn Khiid

Monastery 279Lama Temple 312Mandshir Khiid 276-7Rinpoche Bagsha

Datsan 197Tsugol 218

budgeting 17, 28business hours 387-8bus travel 400

Ccalligraphy 371, 372car travel 400-1cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscell phones 390-1churches & cathedrals

337, 354, see also monasteries

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral 159

Annunciation Cathedral 62

Archangel Cathedral 62Assumption Cathedral

(Moscow) 62Assumption Cathedral

(Vladimir) 118Cathedral of Christ the

Saviour 70Cathedral of St Dmitry 118Church of St Sophia 290-1Church of the

Intercession on the Nerl 119

Church on the Spilled Blood 97

St Basil’s Cathedral 65, 21St Isaac’s Cathedral 100

Chángchūn 296-8Chekhov, Anton 167children, travel with 382,

405China

arts 371-3books 50, 341, 367climate 16culture 369-74currency 16economy 367films 342, 367, 372food 374history 369-74languages 16, 406-10measures 383newspapers 383politics 368

423IN

DEX C

- Mpopulation 368religion 368, 370-1telephone codes 16travel to/from 29

Chinggis Khaan Statue 277

Chita 213-17, 214cinema, see filmsCircumbaikal Railway 192circuses 83classical music

Moscow 82St Petersburg 108

climate 16, see also individual regions

clothing 18, 47Confucian temples 292,

312consulates 383-5costs

accommodation 380food 385tickets 34, 39visas 41

credit cards 387Crimea 350-1culture

China 369-74Mongolia 361-6, 361-6Russia 352-8Siberia 14

currencies 16customs regulations 382cycling 10, 23, 326Cyrillic alphabet

Mongolian 410Russian 415

Ddangers, see safetyDarkhan 256-7Dàtóng 280-3, 282Decembrists 90, 182,

214-15, 216disabilities, travellers

with 392Divnogorsk 179Dostoevsky, Fyodor 347drinking water 89, 404driving, see car travelDrum Tower 312-13

EEaster (Paskha) 22economy

China 367Mongolia 359Russia 350-1

electricity 47, 383embassies 383-5emergencies 17Ēnhé 296etiquette 19Europe–Asia border 149events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17exiles 334explorers 345-9

FFǎlún Gōng 370fax services 390-1festivals & events 22-3films

China 342, 367, 372Mongolia 359, 366Russia 350, 366Siberia 356

firmeny trains 33fish 190, 378fishing 190, 381food 20-1, 48-9

China 374costs 385Mongolia 365-6Russia 350, 357-8

Forbidden City 307-8Frazier, Ian 348Frolikha Adventure

Coastline Trail 244frostbite 405

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgay travellers 385Genghis Khaan, see Khaan,

Chinggisger camps 277, 381Gobi Desert 279, 375, 21golomyanka 378Gorkhi-Terelj National Park

277, 11Gorky Park 72Great Baikal Trail 191Great Wall of China 12,

298-300, 327-8, 13

HHā’ěrbīn 290-6, 290Hā’ěrbīn New

Synagogue 293health 402-5heatstroke 404hepatitis A 404

Hermitage, see State Hermitage Museum

hiking 21Frolikha Adventure

Coastline Trail 244Great Baikal Trail 191

historyChina 369-74Mongolia 361-6railway 330-44Russia 353-8

hitching 401holidays 388-9Holman, James 345homestays 381horse racing 267hot springs 245Hòuhǎi Lakes 314hútòng 313hypothermia 405

Iice fishing 190Ice & Snow Festival 292insurance

health 402travel 385

international travel connections 29, 111-12

internet access 386internet resources see

websitesIrkutsk 179-88, 180-1, 14Islam

Mongolia 363Russia 355

itineraries 30-2, see also individual routes

Běijīng 307Moscow 64St Petersburg 97

Ivolginsk (Ivolga) Datsan 203

JJade Rabbit 367-8Japanese B encephalitis

404Jewish culture,

Hā’ěrbīn 293Jiǎo Shān 299Jǐngshān Park 314

KKazan 120-1Khaan, Chinggis 362Khabarovsk 221-7, 222-3khöömei 364

Khustain National Park 277-8

kilometre posts 117Komsomolsk-na-Amure

247-9, 248Krasnoyarsk 172-9, 174Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude

53, 168-205, 169, 170accommodation 168climate 168food 168highlights 169itineraries 171route information 168,

169-72travel seasons 168

kremlinsMoscow 9, 58, 60-62,

9, 60-1Nizhny Novgorod 127Suzdal 121-3Tobolsk 153, 14

Kungur 137Kyakhta 255-6

LLake Baikal 10, 53, 173,

188-205, 378, 189, 5, 10, 13

Lama Temple 312landscapes 20languages 16, 19, 406-19

Cyrillic alphabets 410, 415

Mandarin 406-10Mongolian 410-13Pinyin 406-10Russian 413-17

Ledyard, John 346legal matters 386Lenin, Vladimir Ilych 65,

152, 340Lenin’s Mausoleum 65lesbian travellers 385Listvyanka 188-92literature, see bookslive music

Moscow 83St Petersburg 108

luggage storage 398Lunar New Year 22

MMan in Seat 61 47Mandarin 406-10Mǎnzhōulǐ 288-9maps 386Maslov, Nikolai 146

424

IND

EX M-R

medical services 403-4mobile phones 390-1monasteries, see also

Buddhist monasteries & temples

Abalak Monastery 156Monastery of the Holy

Martyrs 149Saviour Monastery of

St Euthymius 123Trinity Monastery 150Trinity Monastery of

St Sergius 81Znamensky

Monastery 181money 17, 19, 382, 386-7Mongolia

arts 364-5books 50, 359, 376climate 16culture 359-60, 361-6currency 16economy 359films 359, 366food 365-6history 361-6language 16, 410-13newspapers 383politics 359-60population 360religion 360, 362-4telephone code 16

Moscow 52, 56-87, 59, 63, 66-7, 70-1, 9

accommodation 56, 74-7activities 73climate 56drinking & nightlife 80-2entertainment 82-3festivals & events 73-4food 56, 77-80highlights 59history 58internet resources 57itineraries 64medical services 84-5safety 84shopping 83-4sights 58-73tourist information 84-5tours 57travel seasons 56travel to/from 57, 85-7travel within 87

Moscow to Yekaterinburg 53, 113-37, 114, 116

accommodation 113climate 113food 113highlights 114itineraries 115route information 113,

115-17travel seasons 113

mosquitoes 405motorcycle travel 400-1mountain biking 23Muravyov, Nikolai 330museums & galleries

Decembrist Museum 214Deputy’s Palace

Museum 153Erarta Museum of

Contemporary Art 101

Fabergé Museum 100Gallery of European &

American Art of the 19th & 20th Centuries 70

Imperial Palace of the Manchu State 296-7

Kunstkamera 101Minsalim Folk Art 153-4Museum of

Contemporary Art PERMM 132

National Centre of Contemporary Art 130

Nizhegorodsky State Art Museum 130

N.K. Rerikh Museum 157Oppression Museum 163Perm Regional

Museum 134Perm State Art

Gallery 133Rukavishnikov

Mansion 130Russian Museum 100Seyatel Railway

Locomotive Museum 160

St Isaac’s Cathedral 100

State Art Museum 158State Hermitage

Museum 12, 90-5, 12, 92-3

State Tretyakov Gallery Main Branch 71

Western European Art Collection 130

Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan 262-3

musicMongolia 364-5Russia 356

NNaadam 12, 23, 267national parks &

reserves 377Gorkhi-Terelj National

Park 277, 11Khustain National

Park 277Pribaikalsky National

Park 194Stolby Nature

Reserve 172-3Tunka National

Park 196-7Zabaikalsky National

Park 204-5Nerchinsk 218nerpa seals 190, 378newspapers 383Nizhny Novgorod 127-32,

128North Korea, travel

to/from 29Novosibirsk 14, 157-62,

158, 14

OOlkhon Island 13, 187,

193-4, 13Omsk 156-7omul 190, 378one-child policy, China 370online bookings 35-8opening hours 387-8opera

Běijīng 321Moscow 82-3St Petersburg 108

Orthodox Church, see Russian Orthodox Church

Ostankino TV Tower 78

Ppalaces

Peterhof 102Tsarskoe Selo 102Winter Palace 90Winter Palace of the

Bogd Khan 262-3Yusupov Palace 100

Pānjiāyuán Antiques Market 321

Park Pobedy 73pay phones 390

Perm 132-6, 133Perm-36 136Peter & Paul Fortress 101-2phonecards 390-1photography 388Pinyin 406-10planning 16-17, 18-19, 24-9,

45-51, see also individual regions

booking tickets 33-40budgeting 16-17buying tickets 34-40calendar of events 22-3internet resources

17, 302itineraries 30-2online bookings 35-40price comparisons 34routes 24-9Trans-Siberian Railway’s

regions 52-4travel seasons 16visas 41-4websites 24

Ploshchad Lenina 163police 17politics

China 368Mongolia 359-60Russia 350-1

populationChina 368Mongolia 360Russia 351

Port Baikal 192-3postal services 388Primorsky Territory 231,

236Primorye region 28provodnitsa 48Przewalski’s horses 277-8public holidays 388-9Pussy Riot 350Putin, Vladimir 350-1Puyi 296-7

QQian, Zhang 345

Rrabies 404racism 389rafting, see white-water

raftingRailroad of Death 341railway history 330-44

18th- & 19th-century travellers 347

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

425IN

DEX R

-U 20th- & 21st-century

travellers 348-91905 Revolution 339Baikal-Amur Mainline

343-4Bolshevik Revolution 339construction 332-6development of Siberia

340-1early travellers 347future developments 344origins 330-2Russian Civil War 340Russo-Japanese War

338-9Trans-Manchurian line

342Trans-Mongolian line 343WWII 340

Red October 71Red Square 9, 64-5religions

China 368, 370-1Mongolia 360, 362-4Russia 351, 354, 355-6

Rerikh, Nikolai 157Resurrection Hill 163Riverside Promenade 150Roerick, Nicholas 157Romanov Death Site 143Rossiya 25Rostov-Veliky 126routes 24-9Russia

arts 11, 356-7books 50, 340, 341, 350,

354, 357, 358climate 16culture 352-8currency 16economy 350-1films 350, 366food 357-8history 353-8languages 16, 413-17newspapers 383politics 350-1population 351religion 351, 354, 355-6street names 388telephone code 16travel to/from 29

Russian Orthodox Church 355

Ssafety 389

Moscow 84on the train 50-1

St Petersburg 109Ulaanbaatar 273

Sainshand 278-80Sakhalin Island 249scams 389Selenga Delta 204Severobaikalsk 242-4shamanism 356, 363Shambhala 279Shānhǎiguān 298-300Sharav, Balduugiyn 365Shì Wěi 296showers 50Siberia 14, 334

books 146, 335, 345, 346, 348, 349

culture 14exiles 344films 356indigenous people 353

Siberian Chronicles 345Siberian tigers 291-2, 377Siberian Tiger Park 291-2Sibirsky Trakt 346signs (language)

Mandarin 408Mongolian 411Russian 416

Silk Road 345smoking 51, 386space travel 367-8St Petersburg 52, 88-112,

91, 95-6, 98-9accommodation 88,

103-5ballet 108bridges 112climate 88drinking & nightlife 107entertainment 108festivals & events 103food 88, 105-7highlights 91history 90internet resources 89itineraries 97medical services 109opera 108safety 109shopping 108-9sights 90-102tourist information

109-10tours 89, 102-3travel seasons 88travel to/from 28-9, 89,

110-11travel within 111-12

Stalin, Josef 340

State Hermitage Museum 12, 90, 92-5, 12, 92-3

steppe 375-6Stolby Nature Reserve 172-3stopovers 26-7street names, Russia 388Summer Palace 314Suzdal 11, 120-7, 122, 11Sylvester 23

Ttaiga 375Taltsy Museum of

Architecture & Ethnography 188

telephone codes 16telephone services 390-1temples, see Buddhist

monasteries & temples, Confucian temples

Temple of Heaven Park 308thermal springs 245Theroux, Paul 348throat singing 364Tiān’ānmén Square 308-12tick-borne

encephalitis 404tickets

agencies 38-9booking 33-40classes 33-4, 46-7how to read 36-7prices 34, 39

ticks 404, 405tigers, see Siberian tigerstimetables 24, 40, 398-9time zones 49-50, 391Timofeevich, Yermak 345tipping 19, 387Tobolsk 14, 153-6, 154, 14toilets 50, 392Tomb of the Unknown

Soldier 69Tomsk 162-7, 164tourist information 392tours 38, see also

individual locationstrack gauge 338train classes 302, 398-9train stations

Moscow 85-6St Petersburg 101, 110-12

train travel bedding 45bogie-changing 278church railway cars 337food 48-9kilometre posts 117stops 51

Trans-Manchurian route 26, 54, 284-300, 286-7, 288

accommodation 284climate 284food 284highlights 286itineraries 285route information 284,

285-8travel seasons 284

Trans-Mongolian route 25-6, 54, 250-83, 251, 253

accommodation 250food 250highlights 251itineraries 252route information 250,

252-5travel seasons 250weather 250

Trans-Siberian route 25Krasnoyarsk to Ulan-Ude

53, 168-205, 169Moscow to Yekaterinburg

53, 113-37, 114Ulan-Ude to Vladivostok

53, 206-36, 208-9Yekaterinburg to

Krasnoyarsk 53, 138-67, 139

travellers cheques 387travel narratives 345-9travel seasons 16, see also

individual regionsTúlĭshēn 346-7Tunka Valley 195-7Tynda 246-7typhoid 404Tyumen 150-3, 151

UUlaanbaatar 257-76, 258-9

accommodation 266-9drinking & nightlife 271entertainment 271festivals & events 266food 269-71history 260-1itineraries 261medical services 273safety 273shopping 272-3sights 261-5travel to/from 274-6travel within 276

Ulan-Ude 197-203, 198

426

IND

EX U -Z

Ulan-Ude to Vladivostok 53, 206-36, 208-9, 211

accommodation 206climate 206food 206highlights 208-9itineraries 210route information 206,

207-13travel seasons 206

Ural Mountains 149USSR Museum 159Ussuriland 375

Vvacations 388-9vaccinations 403Vanino 249VDNKh 78virtual tours 45, 337

visas 16, 41-4, 225, 323Vladimir 117-20Vladivostok 15, 29, 227-36,

228, 15Volga-Ural Mountains

trip 124Volkonsky, Sergei 181

Wwalking, see hikingwater 89, 404weather 16, see also

individual regionswebsites

China 17, 302, 370health 403railway history 337,

339, 340Russia 57, 89, 352, 357,

375, 377

travel planning 17, 24, 35, 39, 45

White Nights 23white-water rafting 21wi-fi 51wildlife 377-8Winter Palace 90Witte, Sergei 331women travellers 393, 405wrestling 267

YYakutsk 247Yaroslavl 126-7Yekaterinburg 142-9, 144Yekaterinburg to

Krasnoyarsk 53, 138-67, 139, 141

accommodation 138climate 138

food 138highlights 139itineraries 140route information 138,

140-2travel seasons 138

Yeniseysk 178Yungang Caves 283yurts, see ger camps

ZZamyn-Üüd 280Zedong, Mao 306Zhōngshān Park 309-11

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

427N

OTES

428

NO

TES

429N

OTES

420

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ask Gudmundsen, Chris Fray, Elisabeth Tacke, Ercan Tatar, Gaston Hourcade, Hanna Sarkimaa, Hannah Leupold, Jay Phang, Julia Simon, Michael Omota, Olivier Ordóñez, Patrice Etienne, Piet van den Heuvel, Saori Komuro, Siegfried Schwab, Sonja Minkus, Stef Russell, Thomas Sarosy,

AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondMany thanks to my fellow authors and Brana at HQ; Sasha & Andrey for a lovely place to stay, the ever knowledgable Peter Kozyrev, Chris Hamilton, Adelya Dayanova, Polina Adrianova, Dimitri Ozerkov, Vladimir Stolyarov, Yegor Churakov, Oksana, Maxim Pinigin, Alexander Kim, Maria Isserlis, Yevgenia Semenoff and Polina at the Street Art Museum.

Greg BloomThanks to Dima for the hospitality in Shere-gesh. Thanks to Rita for the Altai advice and for hooking me up with several contacts. Thanks to Vladimir, my crazy cab driver, for the colourful language and Chuysky Trakt anecdotes. Thanks to Russian Railways for being so damn punctual.

Thanks to kalyan. Thanks to the peeps of West-ern Siberia for being good souls.

Marc Di DucaHuge dyakuyu goes to Kyiv parents-in-law Mykola and Vira for looking after sons Taras and Kirill while I was in Siberia. Big thanks to Alex in Chita, Denis and Marina in Ulan-Ude, Andriy and Anya in Slyudyanka, Zhenya in Irkutsk, Igor, Lena and Georgy in Tayshet, the Maryasovs of Severobaikalsk, Anatoliy and Alex in Krasnoyarsk, Real Russia in London for their hassle-free visa service and, of course, my wife Tanya, for suffering my long absences from our home in Sandwich, Kent.

Anthony HaywoodThanks to those who helped out with local knowledge, mostly anonymously, along the way, but especially to Katya Y in Kazan and Katya P in Perm. In Yekaterinburg I’d like to thank Konstantin and Olga Brylyakov for sharing their knowledge (and delicious cream cake!), and Luba Suslyakova for her expert opinions and good company over dinner. Thanks also to the staff at Lonely Planet, especially Anna Tyler and Brana Vladisavljevic.

Michael KohnMany thanks to Molly and Baigalmaa for their companionship on the tour to northern Mongolia. A round of thanks is owed to Daniel,

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES421

Densmaa and Gustavo Correa, Susan Fox, Surendra Kumar Bansal, Andrea Prégnan, To-roo and Degi, Sabine Schmidt, Lhagva Erdene, Altangerel at the Danzan Ravjaa Museum and Mogi Badral.

Shawn LowAs always thanks to the DE, Brana, for steady-ing the Trans-Siberian ship and for your friend-ship. Cheers also to CA: Simon (yet another one done and dusted!). Thanks to the Lonely Planet crew who are working on this: eds, car-tos, LDs etc. I’ve been behind the scenes and know how hard you all work. Thanks also to new friends and old friends on the ground: too numerous to list but I promise to buy you all beers when our paths cross again. Otherwise, we’ll catch up on WeChat!

Tom MastersHuge thanks to my many friends in St Peters-burg, but especially Anatoliy Buzinskiy at Dozhd, Biblioteka Gogolya and Letovpitere for making such huge efforts to help me with contacts and introductions. Thanks to my old friend and tireless Petersburger Simon Patter-son, his wife Olga Dmitrieva and their amazing children for making me feel at home during my stay, and also for organising my accommoda-tion. Thanks also to such reliable comrades as Nikita Yumanov, Gena Bogolepov, Alexei Dmitriev, Alexei Chernov, Nikita Slavich, Dima Dzhafarov, Sasha & Andrey, Peter Kozyrev and Nastya Makarova. At Lonely Planet big thanks to Simon Richmond, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladis-avljevic and all the in-house eds and cartos for their hard work on this title.

Daniel McCrohanHuge thanks to my uncle, Dave Campos, for being brave enough to join me on my latest Trans-Mongolian adventure; if only that jeep had been as comfortable as the train! Thanks too to fellow authors, David Eimer and Mike Kohn for their help with research in Běijīng and Mongolia respectively. A big nǐhǎo to all my family and friends back in the UK. But most of all, to Taotao and the kids: 我爱你们!

Leonid RagozinMany thanks to my wife Masha Makeeva for bearing with my absences and for accompa-nying me on the Yaroslavl section of this trip. Huge thanks to my Lonely Planet colleague Branislava Vladisavljevic for her patience and helping with numerous issues that were coming up in the course of research. It was also great to catch up with fellow authors – Simon Richmond, Anthony Haywood and Mara Vorhees – in Moscow. Good to see you again!

Regis St LouisThanks go to Anna Kaminski and Greg Bloom for helpful tips on the Far East; Martha Madsen for her hospitality and many tips in Yelizovo; Irina and Sasha for a warm welcome in Esso; Yelena for loads of info at Omega Plus in Yu-zhno-Sakhalinsk; Anastasia for Vladivostok insight; Sasha for the Russky Island excursion; Yegor Makarov for Sakha lore, and Aita, Illary, Elena and expats for all the help in Yakutsk. Hugs to Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve for a warm homecoming.

Mara VorheesСамое болшое спасибо to my friend and co-author, Leonid Ragozin, who is a pleasure to work with and fontanka of information about his hometown. Thanks to Tim O’Brien (of course), Marc Bennetts, Simon Richmond and Andrei Muchnik for lots of ideas. As always, thanks to my little guys S&V, for challenging me to see familiar destinations from new per-spectives, and to Daddio, for, well, everything.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Illustrations p60-1 and p92-3 by Javier ZarracinaCover photograph: Lake Baikal, Tony Wheeler©

THIS BOOK This 5th edition of Lonely Planet’s Trans-Siberian Railway guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Anthony Haywood, Michael Kohn, Shawn Low, Tom Masters, Daniel McCrohan, Leonid Ragozin, Regis St Louis and Mara Vorhees. The previous edition was written by Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Anthony

Haywood, Michael Kohn, Tom Masters, Leonid Ragozin, Mara Vorhees and Marc Bennetts. This guidebook was produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Anna TylerDestination Editor Brana VladisavljevicProduct Editor Tracy WhitmeyBook Designer Wendy WrightSenior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Assisting Editors Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney, Jenna Myers, Rosie Nicholson, Chris-topher Pitts Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Baskett, Megan Eaves, Ryan Evans, Lar-issa Frost, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Dianne Schallmeiner, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Welli-come, Amanda Williamson

430

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’