tradicijske sorte i pasmine dalmacije sazetak&summary

T R A D I C I J S K E S O R T E I P A S M I N E D A L M A C I J E5 3 8Foto: Ivo Pervan

T R A D I C I J S K E S O R T E I P A S M I N E D A L M A C I J E 5 3 9

tradicijske sorte i pasmine dalmacije

Sažetak / summary

Postup, Donja Banda, poluotok Pelješac

Postup, Donja Banda, Pelješac Peninsula

T R A D I C I J S K E S O R T E I P A S M I N E D A L M A C I J E5 4 0

Dalmacija je tradicijski naziv za povijesnu regiju primor-ske Hrvatske, smještenu na sjevernom dijelu Sredoze-mlja i jugu Europe, a koja zauzima dio istočne obale Ja-dranskog mora. Sastoji se od kontinentalnog priobalnog i otočnog dijela, ukupne duljine oko 400 km i najveće širine od oko 200 km. Prvi se put spominje u 1. stolje-ću, za vrijeme Rimskog Carstva, kad je bila dio Ilirika, rimske pokrajine nastanjene ilirskim plemenima. Suvre-mena Dalmacija dio je Republike Hrvatske i obuhvaća četiri županije: Zadarsku, Šibensko-kninsku, Splitsko-dalmatinsku i Dubrovačko-neretvansku; njena površina od 35 780 km2 obuhvaća oko 22,4% kopnene površine Hrvatske te gotovo 75% obalnog mora Hrvatske. Dal-macija ima najveći udjel od čak 5 835 km obalne lini-je Hrvatske, većinu od 1 246 otoka i hridi te Adriatik – jadransku kršku platformu i Dinarik, duboko okršenu geotektonsku dinarsku strukturu. Uzdiže se na najviše hrvatske planine, Dinaru (1 831 m), Kamešnicu (1 810 m) i Biokovo (1 762 m), spušta u kanjone i miješa s mo-rem u estuarijima krških rijeka Zrmanje, Krke i Cetine te otvara u široku deltu rijeke Neretve. Rijeka Ombla kod Dubrovnika najkraća je rijeka na svijetu, a Crveno jezero kod Imotskog, duboko preko 500 m, najdublje je-zero Europe. Ipak, zbog krške podloge vodotoci teku ve-ćinom podzemno, dok na površinu često izbija goli krš. Stoga u Jadranu izviru brojni podmorski izvori, a najveći je Vruja kod Brela.

Dalmatinska klima ima raspon od vruće mediteran-ske do snježne visokoplaninske klime. Prema Köppe-novoj klimatskoj podjeli, na području Dalmacije sreće-mo čak pet osnovnih tipova klime: semiaridna (Csa), mediteranska (Csax), submediteranska (Cfsa), planin-ska (Cfsb) i snježna, visokoplaninska (Dfsb). Osam je glavnih vjetrova: sa sjevera tramuntana i bura, s istoka levant; s juga jugo i oštro, s jugozapada lebić, sa zapada

“Sorta ili pasmina koja je sada zanemarena i čini nam se nevažna

može već sutra postati itekako

dragocjena i potpuno nezamjenjiva.”

pulenat te sa sjeverozapada maestral. Bura je ende-mičan gravitacijski vjetar koji dobiva na snazi i brzi-ni spuštajući se niz strminu (pa ne čudi podatak da je najjača bura ona ispod Velebita i Biokova).

U Dalmaciji je prisutno pet osnovnih krajobraznih je-dinica: sjevernodalmatinska zaravan, zadarsko-šibensko otočje, Dalmatinska zagora te obalno područje srednje i južne Dalmacije, iz kojeg je izdvojen zaseban krajobraz donje Neretve. Od ekoloških sustava ističu se šume, krš i podzemlje, močvare i vode, more, krški travnjaci, obala i otoci s više stotina često rijetkih te ugroženih staništa. Kao centri endemizma Dalmacije, ali i Hrvatske, ističu se planinski masivi Velebita i Biokova na kojima na rela-tivno maloj površini srećemo brzu izmjenu raznovrsnih staništa s velikim brojem endemskih vrsta biljaka, gljiva i beskralješnjaka. U Dalmaciji se nalazi čak devet par-kova prirode te devetnaest posebnih rezervata. Četiri su nacionalna parka: NP Paklenica, NP Kornati, NP Krka i NP Mljet te pet parkova prirode: jugoistočni dio PP Velebita, PP Telaščica, PP Vransko jezero, PP Biokovo i PP Lastovsko otočje. U pripremi je proglašenje dva re-gionalna parka: delte Neretve i planine Dinare.

Poljoprivredna bioraznolikost Dalmacije je iznimna zahvaljujući položaju na razmeđi srednje, južne te za-padne i istočne Europe, ali i uslijed burnih povijesnih i socijalno-ekonomskih čimbenika. Posebno je znača-jan položaj u istočnom Mediteranu te utjecaj masiva Dinarida. Dalmacija je tako krajobrazno i biološki jed-no od najraznolikijih područja Europe. Bogatstvo sorti kulturnog bilja i pasmina domaćih životinja sastavni je dio naše povijesne tradicije, prirodne i kulturne baštine. Tradicijske pasmine i sorte ujedno su i jedno od naj-važnijih oruđa za očuvanje postojećih krajobraza, stani-šta i prateće biološke raznolikosti Dalmacije. Ukupnu


Dalmatia is the traditional name for a historic region of maritime Croatia located in the northern part of the Mediterranean and the south of Europe, occupy-ing the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. It consists of a mainland coastal and an island part, with a total length of 400 km and a maximum width of 200 km. It was first mentioned in the 1st century, during the time of the Roman Empire, when it was a part of Il-lyricum, the Roman province inhabited by the Illyr-ian tribes. Contemporary Dalmatia is part of the Re-public of Croatia and covers the area of four counties: Zadarska, Šibensko-kninska, Splitsko-dalmatinska and Dubrovačko-neretvanska; its area of 35 780 m2 occupies 22.4% of the mainland area of Croatia, and almost 75% of the Croatian coastal waters. Dalma-tia accounts for the major share of the 5 835 km long coastline of Croatia, for most of the 1 246 islands and islets as well as for the Adriatic karstic platform and the deeply karstified geotectonic Dinaric structure. It rises to the highest Croatian peaks, Dinara (1 831 m), Kamešnica (1 810 m) and Biokovo (1 762 m), plunges into canyons and mingles with the sea in the estuaries of the karstic rivers Zrmanja, Krka and Cetina, while in the Neretva River it opens into a broad delta. The Ombla River by Dubrovnik is the world’s shortest riv-er, and Red Lake by Imotski is, at over 500 m in depth, the deepest of all Europe’s lakes. Because of the lime-stone bedrock, however, the streams flow most of their courses underground, while on the surface naked rock often emerges. Hence many seabed springs rise in the Adriatic Sea, the biggest of them being Vruja off Brela.

The Dalmatian climate has a range from hot Medi-terranean to snowy high-mountain climate. Accord-ing to the Köppen climatic classification, in the area of Dalmatia we find five basic types of climate: semi-arid

“A variety or breed previously neglected and seemingly unimportant can tomorrow become very valuable and completely irreplaceable”

(Csa), Mediterranean (Csax), sub-Mediterranean (Cf-sa), mountainous (Cfsb) and snowy, high mountain (Dfsb). There are eight main winds: from the north comes the tramontane and bora; from the east, the le-vant; from the south the sirocco and the oštro; from the south west the lebić; from the west the pulenat, and from the north-west the maestral. Bora is the endemic katabatic wind that gains in force and speed as it roars down the mountain slopes (not surprisingly, then, it at-tains its greatest speeds below Velebit and Biokovo).

In Dalmatia there are five basic landscape units: the north Dalmatian plateau; the Zadar and Šibenik archi-pelago; Dalmatinska Zagora and the coastal area of cen-tral and southern Dalmatia with the distinct landscape of the Lower Neretva. The most prominent ecosystems are forests, the karst and its underground, wetlands and water, sea, karstic grasslands, the coast and the islands with several hundred habitats, often rare and endan-gered. The centre of endemism of Dalmatia and Croatia as well is constituted by the mountain massifs of Vele-bit and Biokovo, on which, over a relatively small area, we meet with a rapid exchange of diverse habitats, with a large number of endemic species of plants, fungi and invertebrates. In Dalmatia there are as many as nine na-ture parks and nineteen special reserves. There are four national parks, those of Paklenica, Kornati, Krka and Mljet, as well as five nature parks: the south-east part of Velebit, Telašćica, Vransko jezero, Biokovo and the Las-tovo islands. In preparation is the proclamation of two regional parks: the Neretva Delta, and Mt Dinara.

The agrobiodiversity of Dalmatia is exceptional thanks to its position at the borderlines between central and southern and between western and eastern Europe, but also because of turbulent historical and socioeconomic


agrobioraznolikost u užem smislu čine: tradicijski kul-tivari, suvremeni kultivari te divlje uporabne svojte, a u širem smislu: divlji srodnici kultivara, divlje (nedomesti-cirane) svojte agroekosustava te prateća bioraznolikost – svojte koje pripadaju pratećim ekosustavima, prije svega travnjacima, šumama i vodama te su vezane uz udoma-ćene svojte i agroekosustave (veći predatori, koprofagi, nekrofagi, paraziti itd.).

Poljoprivreda je u Dalmaciji bila presudna za opsta-nak ljudi, a vinova loza, maslina, voće, povrće, žitarice te ovce, koze i goveda njen su temelj. Tradicijski masli-nici, vinogradi, livade, pašnjaci, oranice, vrtovi, vrtače te izvorne sorte i pasmine iznimno su važne za nastanak krajobraza i očuvanje cjelokupne biološke raznolikosti Dalmacije. Međutim, u Dalmaciji je zbog krške podlo-ge te svega 13% poljoprivrednih površina poljoprivred-nik bio primoran koristiti i čistiti šumska i ostala ze-mljišta da bi stvorio obradiva poljoprivredna. Pri tome su nastali fascinantni poljoprivredni krajobrazi u koji-ma dominiraju suhozidi, terase, vrtače i lokve.

U ovoj je knjizi, nastaloj u okviru COAST projekta Programa Ujedinjenih naroda za razvoj (UNDP-a), po prvi put napravljena sinteza i prikaz sveukupne poljo-privredne bioraznolikosti Dalmacije kao važnog dijela opće bioraznolikosti Mediterana i Europe. Dopunjeni su postojeći popisi sorti vinove loze, masline i ostalih voćaka, tradicijskih pasmina, ratarskih i povrtnih kul-tura te najvažnijeg aromatičnog, začinskog, ljekovitog, medonosnog, ukrasnog i divljeg jestivog bilja. Za brojne je kultivare i vrste prvi put obavljena valorizacija sa sta-jališta gospodarskog potencijala i ugroženosti.

Maslina je karakteristična, najbrojnija i jedna od naj-starijih kultura Dalmacije nađena u arheološkim

nalazištima i koja se spominje u statutima nekih pri-morskih gradova još u 13. stoljeću. U Dalmaciji se maslinarstvom kao osnovnom ili dopunskom djelat-nošću bavi 45%, a na hrvatskim otocima 93% obitelji. Danas se u Dalmaciji uzgaja oko 3 500 000 stabala masline s tendencijom porasta, dok je brojnost dru-gih voćnih vrsta u stagnaciji ili opadanju. Maslina je na području Dalmacije zastupljena sa 42 izvorne i tra-dicijske sorte, od kojih je jedna sorta nestala, 13 ih je kritično ugroženo i postoji još svega nekoliko stabala, 12 ima vrlo male populacije s manje od 1 000 staba-la, 7 ima populacije između 1 000 i 10 000 stabala, te samo 9 sorti ima zadovoljavajuću populaciju od pre-ko 10 000 stabala. Gospodarski su najvažnije sorte: oblica, lastovka, bjelica, dužica, paštrica, levantinka i drobnica. Na području Hrvatske prisutne su samo tri matične kolekcije za očuvanje tradicijskih kultivara masline: u Poreču u Istri, te dvije u Dalmaciji, u Spli-tu i Dubrovniku, uz nekoliko manjih privatnih kolek-cija i matičnjaka maslina u komercijalnim rasadnici-ma. Potrebno je izraditi bazu podataka sorti maslina, provesti reprodukciju postojećeg genetskog fonda uz uvrštenje ugroženih sorti na Nacionalnu sortnu listu i u nacionalne kolekcije. Zbog malog udjela poljopri-vrednih površina te nemogućnosti razvoja industrij-ske proizvodnje, budućnost maslinarstva Dalmacije je u ekološkoj proizvodnji geografski prepoznatljivih ulja vrhunske kvalitete.

Proizvodnja vinove loze, grožđa i vina i danas u Dal-maciji ima strateško mjesto kakvo je imala i u prošlosti. Vrlo povoljni okolišni uvjeti, raznolikost tlā i specifični vinogradarski položaji čine Dalmaciju idealnim stani-štem za uzgoj vinove loze, pri čemu su uzgojne povr-šine krajem 19. stoljeća dosezale i do 90 000 ha. Uz-goj vinove loze s tradicijom preko 2 000 godina, već

spomenuti specifični okolišni uvjeti, izoliranost pojedi-nih područja te pomorske veze s ostatkom Mediterana utjecale su na razvoj bogatog sortimenta. Neke su sorte introducirane iz okolnih zemalja, ali većina ih je nasta-la u Dalmaciji spontanim križanjem. Karakterističan je razvoj velikog broja lokalnih sortimenata, specifičnih samo za uža, izolirana, često otočna područja, pa su ta-ko i danas neke sorte samo lokalno zastupljene. Kra-jem 19. stoljeća u Dalmaciji se uzgajalo oko 200 sor-ti, dok je trenutačno poznato njih 83; ostale danas više ne nalazimo i smatramo ih trajno izgubljenima. Gos-podarski najvažnije sorte su: plavac mali, pošip, plavi-na, maraština, debit, kujundžuša, grk, vugava, bogda-nuša i žilavka. Posljednjih desetak godina značajni se napori ulažu na očuvanju autohtonog sortimenta, pri čemu je vodeća institucija Agronomski fakultet u Za-grebu, gdje je osnovana Nacionalna kolekcija sorata vi-nove loze. Budućnost dalmatinskog vinogradarstva leži u očuvanju tradicijskih sorti uz stvaranje malih serija vrhunskih i prepoznatljivih ekoloških vina s geograf-skim porijeklom.

Uzgoj voćnih kultura u Dalmaciji datira od najstarijih vremena, a u ediktu cara Dioklecijana iz 301. godine spominje se uzgoj maslina više stoljeća prije Krista. Car Dioklecijan je ujedno i prvi koji je uspostavio kolekciju voćnih vrsta u Dalmaciji. U Statutu grada Nina iz 12. stoljeća spominje se šesnaest službeno zaštićenih kultu-ra, među kojima i smokva. Od voćnih kultura najznačaj-nije su: smokva, bajam, maraska i trešnja, dok se nešpola, šipak i rogač uzgajaju sporadično, uglavnom u okućni-cama. U Dalmaciji se uzgaja dvadesetak voćnih kultura s preko 100 tradicijskih sorti. Dominantna je smokva s 28 sorti, šipak s 20 sorti, maraska s 15, bajam s 12, treš-nja s 11, rogač s 9 i druge. Prema svojim gospodarskim i drugim vrijednostima, ističu se sorte smokve (petrovača


factors. Particularly important is the position in the eastern Mediterranean and the influence of the Dinar-ide massif. Dalmatia is thus in terms of landscape and biology one of the most diverse regions of Europe. The richness of varieties of crop plants and the breeds of domestic animals is an integral part of our historical tradition, of the natural and cultural heritage. The ani-mal and plant landraces are one of the most important tools in the task of preserving the existing landscapes and habitats and the accompanying biodiversity of Dalmatia. In the strict sense, the overall agrobiodiver-sity consists of: traditional cultivars, contemporary cul-tivars and wild taxa for use; in the more general sense: of wild relatives of cultivars, wild (non-domesticated) taxa of the agro-ecosystem and the accompanying bio-diversity – taxa that belong to the accompanying eco-system, primarily to the grasslands, forests and waters, and that are interconnected with domesticated taxa and agro-ecosystems (the larger predators, coprophag-es, necrophages, parasites and so on).

Crucial to human survival in Dalmatia has been agri-culture, at the foundations of which are the grapevine, the olive, fruit, vegetables, cereals and sheep and goats, as well as cattle. The traditional olive groves, vineyards, meadows, pastures, ploughland, gardens, fertile karstic depressions as well as the landrace varieties and breeds have also been exceptionally important in the origins of the landscape and the preservation of the overall bi-ological diversity of Dalmatia. And yet, because of the karst bedrock, the scant 13% of the whole area avail-able for use in agriculture, the farmer was forced to use and clear forest and other areas to create cultivable ag-ricultural land. This resulted in the creation of a fasci-nating agricultural landscape, dominated by dry stone walls, terraces, cultivated depressions and pools.

This book, which has come into being as part of the COAST project of the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), has attempted for the first time a synthesis and survey of the whole of the agricultur-al biodiversity of Dalmatia, seeing it as an important part of the general biodiversity of the Mediterranean and of Europe. The existing variety lists of grapes, ol-ives and other fruiting trees, traditional breeds, arable and horticultural crops and the most important aro-matic, herbal, therapeutic, nectar-bearing, decorative and wild edible plants have been supplemented. For the first time, an evaluation has been made of many cultivars and species from the point of view of eco-nomic potential and threat level.

The olive tree is the characteristic, the most numer-ous and one of the oldest crops in Dalmatia, dis-covered even in archaeological sites and mentioned in the statutes of some of the coastal towns back in the 13th century. Olive growing occupies 45% of the families of Dalmatia as a main or part-time job, the figure rising to 93% on the islands. Today about three and a half million olive trees are in cultivation, and rising; however, the numbers of other fruiting trees are stagnant or falling. In the area of Dalmatia, there are 42 landrace varieties of olive, although one has vanished, 13 are critically endangered and exist in just a few trees; 12 have very small populations with few-er than a thousand trees, there are 7 populations of between 1 000 and 10 000 trees, while only 9 varie-ties have satisfactory populations of over 10 000 trees. The economically most important varieties are called Oblica, Lastovka, Bjelica, Dužica, Paštrica, Levantin-ka and Drobnica. In Croatia there are only three olive cultivar collections for the preservation of the heir-loom olives: in Poreč in Istria, and two in Dalmatia,

in Split and Dubrovnik, with a few private collections and breeding stock of olives in commercial nurseries. A database of olive varieties needs making, the repro-duction of the existing genetic stocks carrying out, and the threatened varieties need to be placed on the National Variety List and into the national collec-tions. Because of the small proportion of agricultural land, and the impossibility of developing industrial-scale production, the future of olive growing in Dal-matia has to be in the ecological production of geo-graphically identifiable oils of superior quality.

The production of vines, grapes and wine in Dalma-tia has the same kind of strategic position that it had in the past. Very favourable environmental condi-tions, diversity of soils and the individual positions of the vineyards make Dalmatia an ideal habitat for the cultivation of the grapevine, the area devoted to the grape having reached as much as 90 000 ha at the end of the 19th century. The cultivation of vines in a 2 000 year old tradition, the specific environmental condi-tions already referred to, the isolation of some of the areas and the maritime connections with the rest of the Mediterranean had an effect on the development of a rich assortment. Some varieties were introduced from surrounding lands, but most of them were cre-ated in Dalmatia as spontaneous hybrids. What is characteristic is the development of a large number of local assortments, peculiar to the restricted and iso-lated, often island, area, and so today some varieties are found only locally. At the end of the 19th centu-ry about 200 varieties were grown in Dalmatia, while today 83 of them are known. Currently we cannot find the others, and must consider them to have been lost forever. The economically most important varie-ties are Plavac Mali, Pošip, Plavina, Maraština, Debit,


bijela, zamorčica), bajama (čarski kasni, knez črnomir), maraske (brač-2, brač-6 i recta), šipka (konjski zub i slat-ki barski) te mandarine (zorica rana). Prisutne su samo tri matične kolekcije za očuvanje tradicijskih kultivara voćaka: u Poreču, Splitu i Dubrovniku, uz nekoliko ma-njih privatnih kolekcija i matičnjaka.

Proizvodnja povrća na području Dalmacije od veli-kog je gospodarskog značenja. U Dalmaciji se nala-zi polovica ukupnih hrvatskih površina komercijalne proizvodnje povrća namijenjenog potrošnji u svježem stanju i trećina svih zaštićenih objekata namijenje-nih uzgoju povrća. Na području Dalmacije, u uzgoju na otvorenome, najzastupljenije vrste povrća su: ku-pusnjače, lubenice i dinje, rajčica te luk, dok se u za-štićenim objektima najviše uzgajaju rajčica, krastavac, paprika i salata. U komercijalnoj proizvodnji povrća namijenjenoj tržištu gotovo isključivo se koriste stra-ni hibridi i sorte povrća među kojima često puta pre-vladava vrlo mali broj kultivara, čime je bioraznolikost znatno smanjena. Tradicijske sorte i lokalne populaci-je povrća gotovo isključivo su zastupljene samo u vr-tovima i manjim okućnicama i namijenjene su potroš-nji u vlastitom domaćinstvu. Na području Dalmacije tradicionalno se uzgaja 21 povrtnica uz 40 kultivara, a sve tradicijske sorte povrća su visoko ugrožene, neke vjerojatno i trajno nestale. Posebno se svojim gospo-darskim, genetičkim te kulturno-povijesnim vrijedno-stima ističu: paška dinja, hvarska artičoka, župski ka-vulin, trogirska srednje rana cvjetača, sinjski i žegar-ski kupus, domaća raštika, endivija dalmatinska kopi-ca, salata dalmatinska ledenka, domaća blitva, domaća ljutika, polački i ljubitovački češnjak, dolačka kapulica i konavljanski luk, domaći bob, grah rogač, krupnozr-na domaća sjekirica i rajčica šibenski šljivar.

Ratarska proizvodnja je sve do polovice 20. stoljeća, usprkos relativno lošim uvjetima, imala veliko znače-nje za Dalmaciju te je uz vinogradarstvo, maslinar-stvo i stočarstvo upravo ratarstvo bilo osnova poljo-privrede. Dalmacija obiluje populacijama ratarskog bilja nastalih prirodnom selekcijom i hibridizacijom u specifičnim ekološkim prilikama, a koje predstav-ljaju genetički izvor za buduće selekcije. Žitarice su se u Dalmaciji uzgajale od pamtivijeka i bile osnova prehrane stanovništva. Tamo gdje nije bilo uvjeta za proizvodnju pšenice i kukuruza ili proizvodnja ovih žitarica nije bila dovoljna, mijenjalo se ulje, vino ili sol za brašno. Industrijske kulture u Dalmaciji imaju veću ulogu tek od 18. stoljeća kad se počinje u većoj mjeri uzgajati duhan koji se pojavio u uzgoju već u 17. stoljeću. Krumpir se u Dalmaciji gotovo nikad ni-je koristio za industrijske potrebe, već za ljudsku pre-hranu. Predivo bilje na području Dalmacije nikad ni-je bilo uzgajano na većim površinama, a krmno bilje se nije nikada uzgajalo, nego se koristilo oko 600 000 hektara prirodnih pašnjaka i livada. Osnovnu gospo-darsku vrijednost livadama i pašnjacima daju mahu-narke (Fabaceae) i trave (Poaceae). Utvrđeno je više od 90 kultura ratarskog i krmnog bilja uz veći broj kultivara. Međutim, znanstvena istraživanja dalma-tinskih ratarskih kultura su zanemarena, ratarske kul-ture su gotovo potpuno iščezle iz proizvodnje, a svi ratarski kultivari su ugroženi. Prema svojim gospo-darskim i drugim vrijednostima ističu se: dalmatinska tvrda brkulja, domaći ječam, domaća raž, kukuruz do-maći tvrdunac, domaći sirak zrnaš, dalmatinski buhač, krumpir počiteljka i škuljevac, duhan ravnjak i ružić, agava, domaći broć, kršin, kostrika, dalmatinska bijela vučika, domaći sitnozrni slanutak, domaća leća, brni-stra, rumena djetelina i mediteranska lucerka.

Dalmacija je područje izrazitog bogatstva aromatičnog, začinskog, ljekovitog, medonosnog, ukrasnog i divljeg jestivog bilja, pravi pčelinji rajski vrt. Samo manji dio ovog bilja je kroz povijest kultiviran ili bio predmet istraživanja i selekcije. Sve se zasnivalo na sakupljanju samoniklih divljih populacija i njihovom izvozu kao si-rovine u razvijene zemlje. Rijetki su primjeri gdje se iš-lo i do sekundarnih proizvoda (eterična ulja, medovi), a tercijarni kao što su izvorni ljekoviti, kozmetički ili pre-hrambeni proizvodi gotovo da ne postoje. Iako su brojni autori i stručnjaci upozoravali na ovaj iznimni potenci-jal, nije utvrđeno stanje populacija, procjena vrijednosti i ugroženosti te utvrđeni oblici tradicionalnog korište-nja, a rijetki su i strateški dokumenti vezani uz ovu pro-blematiku. Kao posljedica, danas ne postoji proizvod-nja sjemena i sadnica domaćih kultivara aromatičnog, začinskog, ljekovitog, medonosnog, ukrasnog i divljeg jestivog bilja, uz poneku rijetku iznimku, već se kulti-vari uvoze iz inozemstva. Utvrđeno je više od stotinu iznimno važnih vrsta na području Dalmacije, a po gos-podarskom potencijalu ističu se: ljekovita kadulja, la-vandin budrovka, uspravni ružmarin, domaći primorski vrisak, murtela, obična agava, matar, mirta, planika, div-lja i obična riga, komorač, sunovrat žuti, ilirska peruni-ka, lovor, indijska smokva, kapar, smilje te smrič obični.

Domaće životinje su od velike važnosti za poljoprivre-du Dalmacije, čak i sam naziv Dalmacija dolazi od sta-re ilirske riječi delma (ovca). Prema popisu iz 1781. go-dine u Dalmaciji je bilo oko 1,2 milijuna grla stoke, od čega preko milijun ovaca i koza. U odnosu na broj sta-novnika (250 000), Dalmacija je imala relativno najveći udjel stoke u Europi, čak pet grla po glavi stanovnika. Prema popisu iz 2007. godine preostalo je svega oko 250 000 grla stoke, oko pet puta manje nego prije 200 godina. Za Dalmaciju su najvažnije domaće životinje:


Kujundžuša, Grk, Vugava, Bogdanuša and Žilavka. In the last dozen years, considerable efforts have been invested into the preservation of the landrace vari-eties, the leading place being occupied by the Agri-culture Faculty in Zagreb, which has founded a Na-tional Collection of Grapevine Varieties. The future of Dalmatian viticulture lies in the preservation of tradi-tional varieties, creating small-scale production of su-perlative and distinctive ecologically produced wines with geographical origins.

The cultivation of fruit crops in Dalmatia dates from the earliest times. An edict of Emperor Diocletian re-fers to the cultivation of the olive as having existed several centuries before the modern era. Diocletian was also the first to set up a collection of fruit spe-cies in Dalmatia. In a statute of the city of Nin of the 12th century, sixteen officially protected crops are mentioned, including the fig. Most important of the fruit crops are: the fig, almond, black cherry and cher-ry, while the medlar and pomegranate and carob were cultivated sporadically, mainly within the curtilages. In Dalmatia, some score of fruit crops are current-ly cultivated, with over 100 heirloom varieties. The dominant fruit is the fig, with 28 varieties, then come the pomegranate (20), marasca cherry (15), almond (12), cherry (11), carob (9) and others. Prominent for their economic and other values are the fig varieties Petrovača Bijela and Zamorčica; the almond varieties Čar Late, Knez Črnomir; the Brač-2 and Brač-6 and Recta marasca cherries; the Konjski Zub and Slatki Barski pomegranates; and the Zorica Rana mandarin. There are just three breeding stock collections for the preservation of the traditional cultivars of fruit crops– in Poreč, Split and Dubrovnik, with a few small pri-vate collections and breeding stock.

Vegetable production in Dalmatia is of great econom-ic importance. The area contains half of all the land in Croatia devoted to market gardening, and a third of all protected structures meant for the cultivation of veg-etables. Outside in Dalmatia the most common varie-ties of vegetables are cabbages, watermelons and mel-ons, tomatoes and onions, and in the protected struc-tures they mostly cultivate tomatoes, cucumbers, bell pepper and lettuce. In market gardening, almost exclu-sively introduced hybrids and varieties are used, a very small number of cultivars actually prevailing, the bio-diversity thus being sensibly reduced. Landrace vegeta-bles and local populations are to be found only in gar-dens and small curtilages, and are meant for household consumption. In the area of Dalmatia, people tradi-tionally cultivated 21 vegetable plants with 40 cultivars, but all the traditional varieties are highly endangered; some have probably vanished for good. Especially val-uable for their economic genetic and cultural history qualities are the Pag melon, the Hvar artichoke, the Župa broccoli, the Trogir medium early cauliflower and the cabbages of Sinj and Žegarsko polje, the do-mestic borecole, the Dalmatinska Kopica endive, Dal-matinska Ledenka lettuce, domestic chard, domestic scallion, Polački and Ljubitovački garlic, Dolačka on-ion and Konavle onion, domestic broad bean, Rogač bean, large grained domestic chickpea, domestic pea vine and Šibenik plum tomato.

Until the middle of the 20th century, arable produc-tion, in spite of the very adverse conditions, was very important for Dalmatia; along with olive cultivation, viticulture and herding, arable farming was the basis of agriculture. Dalmatia abounds in populations of ar-able crops created by natural selection and hybridisa-tion in the specific ecological conditions that represent

a genetic source for future selections. Cereals have been grown there since time out of kind, and were the staple food of the population. Where there were not the con-ditions for wheat or maize or the production of such cereals was inadequate, they would trade oil, wine and salt for flour. Industrial cultures have had a major role in Dalmatia only since the 18th century when tobacco started to be grown in a fairly big way, appearing in cul-tivation as early as the 17th century. The potato has al-most never been used for industrial purposes in Dalma-tia, only for human food. Fibre crops were never grown over any very large areas, and fodder crops were also al-most unknown, for instead they were able to use about 600 000 hectares of natural pasture lands and meadows. The basic economic value is imparted to the grasslands by the legumes (Fabaceae) and grasses (Poaceae). More than 90 crops of arable and fodder plants with a large number of cultivars have been determined. But there has been little scientific research into Dalmatian ara-ble crops, which have almost vanished from production, and all the cultivars are endangered. Particularly impor-tant for economic and other values are the Dalmatian Brkulja winter wheat; domestic barley; domestic rye; domestic maize Tvrdunac; domestic sorghum; Dalma-tian pyrethrum; the potatoes Počiteljka and Škuljevac; the tobacco cultivars Ravnjak and Ružić; agave; domes-tic madder; goldbeard grass; brome; Dalmatian white lupin; domestic small grained chick pea; domestic len-til; gorse, red clover and Mediterranean alfalfa.

Dalmatia is an area with great riches of aromatic, spice, therapeutic, nectariferous, decorative and wild edi-ble plants, in fact, a paradise for honey bees. Only a small number of these plants have been cultivated or been investigated or selected during the course of his-tory. Everything has been based on the collection of


ovce, koze, goveda, magarci s križancima, svinje, ko-nji, pčele, kokoši, pure, dudov prelac, kunići, golubo-vi i psi. Utvrđeno je 30 tradicijskih pasmina, kojima je pridodana jedna novostvorena, golub zadarski prevrtač. Među tradicijskim pasminama dominiraju ovce s je-danaest pasmina, što je posljedica dugotrajnog i domi-nantnog ovčarstva na području Dalmacije, raznolikih križanja te izoliranosti populacija, posebno na otocima. Prema gospodarskoj i drugoj važnosti ističu se: goveda dalmatinska buša i dalmatinsko sivo govedo; konj dal-matinski bušak; primorsko-dinarski magarac; hrvatska šarena i bijela koza; ovce dubrovačka ruda, paška ov-ca i dalmatinska pramenka; svinja šiška; dalmatinska kokoš, dalmatinski puran, golub dalmatinska zimovka; dalmatinski pas i tornjak te mediteranska siva pčela.

Tek je dio ove agrobioraznolikosti sorti i pasmina Dal-macije službeno prepoznat, te se mnoge ne nalaze na službenoj Sortnoj listi Republike Hrvatske, odnosno na Popisu izvornih i zaštićenih pasmina i sojeva do-maćih životinja. Nažalost, prema novom Zakonu o sje-menarstvu, opstanak svake sorte na Sortnoj listi ovisi o službenom održivaču, koji se brine o održavanju nje-nog genetskog identiteta, ali što je u praksi i važnije, plaća godišnju pristojbu za njen ostanak na listi. Budu-ći da službena i nadzirana proizvodnja sjemena nave-denih tradicijskih sorti ne postoji, velika je vjerojatnost da se zbog nepostojanja održivača, primjenom Zakona, svi navedeni tradicijski kultivari automatski izbrišu sa Sortne liste. Posljedica je nemogućnost legalnog pro-metovanja njihovim sjemenom i reprodukcijskim ma-terijalom. Stoga za tradicijske sorte i pasmine koje nisu na Sortnoj listi treba osmisliti model registracije, a za ostale pronaći model održavanja, ali i unapređenja iza-branih i potencijalno gospodarski vrijednih kultivara. Uspostavljanje upisnika održivača sjemena tradicijskih

sorti i matičnih grla tradicijskih pasmina upotpunit će sustavnu brigu o očuvanju naše baštine.

Usprkos svim negativnim pojavama na globalnoj i lo-kalnoj razni koje posljedično dovode do genetske ero-zije, još uvijek iznimno velik broj autohtonih lokalnih tradicijskih kultivara čini osnovu današnje agrobiora-znolikosti Dalmacije. Istraživanjem tradicijskih poljo-privrednih kultivara Dalmacije utvrđeno je oko 140 divljih vrsta s visokim potencijalom u poljoprivredi te gotovo 400 kultivara, odnosno sorti, pasmina i sojeva domaćih životinja, često tek formalno poznatih i ne-dovoljno istraženih. Prema bioraznolikosti, posebno se ističe velik broj izvornih lokalnih tradicijskih sorti vi-nove loze, masline i ostalih voćnih vrsta te brojnih aro-matičnih, začinskih, ljekovitih, medonosnih, ukrasnih i divljih jestivih biljaka. Ovaj broj bi bio daleko veći da su provedena istraživanja svih grupa kultura, osobito žitarica, mahunarki i povrtnica te nekih voćki.

Uslijed novijih, globalnih trendova svjetske poljopri-vrede koji vladaju posljednjih pedesetak godina, popu-lacije tradicijskih sorti i pasmina postaju sve ugroženije i ubrzano nestaju. Tome najviše pridonosi industrijali-zacija poljoprivrede, odnosno monokulturna proizvod-nja te uvođenje namjenskih hibrida, nestanak zelenih tržnica i pojava supermarketa, ali i svjetsko zakono-davstvo na području sjemenarstva – koje favorizira no-vostvorene kultivare i onemogućuje sjemenarenje i pla-sman tradicijskih sorti. Nažalost ovo nestajuće bogat-stvo i neslućeni potencijal agrobioraznolikosti ne samo da nije propisno istraženo, očuvano, zaštićeno, promo-virano i iskorišteno u daljnjoj selekciji, već nije ni pre-poznato kao gospodarski i turistički vrijedno te ključno u stvaranju izvornih i prepoznatljivih, premijskih po-ljoprivrednih proizvoda Dalmacije.

U Dalmaciji poljoprivredna proizvodnja na kršu – s tek nešto više od deset posto udjela poljoprivrednog zemljišta, na kamenitim, skeletoidnim tlima u uvjeti-ma bezvodice i suša, na udaru jakih vjetrova, ljetnih sparina i zimskih hladnoća – nije moguća bez otpor-nih i dobro prilagođenih kultivara koje smo stvorili tijekom proteklih tisućljeća.

Poljoprivreda Dalmacije nikako ne može biti tržišno konkurentna kroz industrijsku poljoprivredu, već se treba oslanjati na premijske proizvode i manja poljo-privredna gospodarstva ekološkog usmjerenja koja su u stanju proizvesti i ponuditi jedinstvene izvorne poljo-privredne proizvode, visoke kvalitete i prepoznatljivosti.

Tradicijske sorte i pasmine valja očuvati ili revitalizi-rati prije svega in situ, u svom izvornom, očuvanom okolišu jer samo tako mogu se sačuvati temelji agro-bioraznolikosti. Nažalost to nije moguće za sve kulti-vare, posebno za one koji danas nemaju veću gospo-darsku vrijednost. Stoga je potrebno po provedenom istraživanju i izradi plana upravljanja za svaki pojedini kultivar, za neke od njih provesti zaštitu u okviru ex situ sustava – banke gena.

Aktivnosti koje su neophodne za opstanak agrobio-raznolikosti Dalmacije obuhvaćaju provedbu brojnih znanstvenih i stručnih istraživanja s ciljem inventure agrobioraznolikosti i njenog gospodarskog vrednova-nja, ali i pokretanje potrebnih programa i projekata zaštite, očuvanja, gospodarske revitalizacije i promo-cije tradicijskih sorti kulturnog bilja te pasmina i soje-va domaćih životinja, kao i svih tradicijskih poljopri-vrednih proizvoda na njihovoj osnovi.


self-sown wild populations and their export as raw ma-terials to developed countries. Rare are the examples in which they went as far as secondary products (ethe-real oils or honey), while tertiary products, like origi-nal therapeutic, cosmetic or food products hardly ex-ist. Although many authors and experts have drawn attention to this enormous potential, the condition of the populations has not been ascertained, nor has there been an estimation of the value or the degree of threat, or the forms in which these items have traditionally been used. There are hardly any strategic documents related to this problem area. In consequence, today there is no seed and seedling production of domestic cultivars of aromatic, spice, medicinal, nectar-bearing, ornamental and wild edible plants; with just the rare exception, rather, the cultivars are imported from else-where. It has been ascertained that there are more than a hundred extremely important species in the area of Dalmatia, and in terms of economic potential the fol-lowing are some of the most prominent: common sage, Budrovka lavender; upright rosemary; domestic mari-time heather; Murtela basil; common agave; samphire; myrtle; strawberry tree; wild and common rocket; fen-nel; yellow daffodil; Illyrian iris; bay; the cactus fig; ca-pers, immortelle and common juniper.

Domestic animals are extremely important for Dalma-tian agriculture, and the very name Dalmatia derives from the old Illyrian name delma or sheep. According to a census of 1781 there were 1.2 million head of live-stock in Dalmatia, of which over a million were sheep and goats. In terms of numbers of animals to popula-tion size (250,000), Dalmatia had the biggest propor-tion of livestock in Europe, as many as five head for one person. But from an agricultural census of 2007, only 250,000 head were left, five times fewer than 200

years before. The most important domestic animals for Dalmatia are sheep, goats, cattle, donkeys and cross-es, pigs, horses, bees, hens, turkeys, silk worms, rab-bits, pigeons and dogs. Thirty landraces have been es-tablished, a new one having been added, the Zadar-ski Prevrtač pigeon. Among the traditional breeds, sheep, with eleven breeds, are dominant, which is the result of the long-lasting dominance of sheep farm-ing in Dalmatia, the various crosses and the isolation of the populations, particularly on the islands. In terms of economic and other kinds of importance, particu-larly worth mentioning are the: Dalmatian Buša cattle, the Dalmatia grey cattle; the Dalmatian Bušak horse; the Primorsko-Dinarski donkey; the Croatian piebald and white goat; the Dubrovnik Ruda sheep, the Pag sheep and the Dalmatian Pramenka; the Šiška pig; the Dalmatian hen and Dalmatian turkey; the Dalmatian Zimovka pigeon; the Dalmatian dog and the Tornjak [dog], the Mediterranean grey bee.

Only a small part of the agrobiodiversity of the varieties and breeds of Dalmatia has been officially recognised, and many of them are not placed on the official List of Varieties of the Republic of Croatia, or the List of Original and Protected Breeds and Strains of Domestic Animals. Unfortunately, according to the new Seed Pro-duction Law, the survival of any variety on the Variety List is conditional on an official maintainer to look after the maintenance of the genetic identity, and, which is in practice more important, to pay an annual fee to keep it on the list. Since no official and controlled production of seeds of the traditional varieties exists, there is a great likelihood that for the want of a maintainer, by automat-ic enforcement of the Law, all these landrace cultivars will automatically be deleted from the Variety List. The consequence will be the impossibility of legally selling

seeds and reproduction materials of these plants. Thus the traditional varieties and breeds not on the official lists need to have a registration model devised for them, and for the others a maintenance model needs finding. Also necessary is the improvement of selected and po-tentially economically valuable cultivars. Establishment of a register of heirloom seed maintainers and breeding herds of the traditional breeds will complement system-atic concern for the preservation of our heritage.

In spite of all the negative phenomena at the glob-al and local level, which lead to genetic erosion, an exceptionally large number of landrace cultivars still make up the basis for today’s agrobiodiversity in Dal-matia. By research into traditional agricultural culti-vars in Dalmatia, about 140 wild species were iden-tified, with a high potential in agriculture, as well as almost 400 cultivars, or varieties, breeds and strains of domestic animals, often known only formally and in-sufficiently studied. Particularly emphasised in terms of biodiversity are a large number of local traditional varieties of grapevine, olives and other fruit species, and the many aromatic, spice, medicinal, nectarifer-ous, decorative and wild edible plants. But this num-ber would be greater by far if research had been car-ried out into all groups of cultivars, particularly into the cereals, legumes, vegetables and some fruit trees.

As a result of more recent global trends in world agri-culture, which have prevailed for the last fifty years, the landrace varieties and breeds have becoming increasing-ly under threat and are rapidly vanishing. This is most-ly consequent upon the industrialisation of agriculture, of monoculture production and the introduction of spe-cially designed hybrids, the absence of produce markets and the appearance of supermarkets, as well as world


Nadamo se da će objava ove knjige potaknuti mnoge ta-kve i druge korisne aktivnosti koje će povratiti nezamje-njivu ulogu, mjesto i značaj tradicijskih sorti i pasmina u održivoj poljoprivredi, gospodarstvu, turizmu te zaštiti prirodnog i kulturno-povijesnog nasljeđa ne samo Dal-macije, već i cijele Hrvatske pa i susjednog okruženja.

Osobito je važno provesti katalogizaciju tradicijskih poljoprivrednih proizvoda Dalmacije temeljenih na izvornim sortama i pasminama. Takav katalog treba obuhvatiti sve grupe proizvoda, točnije sljedeće pre-hrambene proizvode i pića: brašno, kruh, pogaču, beš-kot, jestivo ulje, vino, kvasinu, žestoka pića, meso i mesne prerađevine, mlijeko, sireve, mliječne prerađe-vine, proizvode od jaja, meda, prerađevine voća i povr-ća i drugo; te neprehrambene biljne i životinjske pro-izvode: ukrasno bilje, eterična ulja, ekstrakte, začine, prirodne pesticide, prirodne boje, duhan, odjeću, obu-ću i brojne druge proizvode tradicijske poljoprivrede.

Katalog tradicijskih poljoprivrednih proizvoda Dal-macije trebao bi time postati svojevrsni putokaz, pri-ručnik i izvor novih ideja za poduzetnike i menadžere, ali i provjeren model za izradu sličnih kataloga sa već iskušanom metodologijom za ostala područja Hrvat-ske (Istra, Primorje i Kvarner, Lika, Središnja Hrvat-ska, Slavonija), te u konačnici primjer dobre prakse za čitavu mediteransku regiju i Europu.

S dubrovačke tržnice (prema Avelot, 1896.) Sa splitske tržnice (prema Avelot, 1896.)


legislation in seed production, which is prejudiced in fa-vour of newly created cultivars and discourages the seed production and sale of traditional varieties. Unfortu-nately, this vanishing wealth and the unguessed-at po-tential of agrobiodiversity is not only not properly re-searched, preserved, protected, promoted and used in further selection; it is not even recognised as valuable for the economy, for the tourist industry, nor is it known how crucial it is in the creation of authentic and distinc-tive, premium farm products of Dalmatia.

In Dalmatia, farm production on the karst – with just a bit more than ten percent of farm land, on stony, skeletal soils, in conditions of drought and aridity, bearing the brunt of powerful winds, sweltering sum-mers and winter cold – is not possible without re-sistant and well-adapted cultivars, created over the last few thousand years.

Dalmatian agriculture is never going to be competi-tive on the market via industrial agriculture products. It has to rely on premium products and smaller, eco-logically-oriented farms, capable of producing and selling unique original farm products, high in quality and recognition factors.

Traditional varieties and breeds must be preserved, and revitalised, primarily in situ, in their own origi-nal preserved environment, because only that way can the foundations of agrobiodiversity be kept up. But this is not possible for all cultivars, especially for those that today have no very great economic value. And so it is needful, after research has been conducted and a management plan constructed for each individual cultivar, to conduct the protection of some of them ex situ, in a gene bank.

Activities that are essential for the survival of Dal-matian agrobiodiversity cover the implementation of various scientific and specialised research pro-jects, aiming at an inventory of agrobiodiversity and its economic valorisation, as well as the launching of necessary programmes and projects for the protec-tion, preservation, economic revitalisation and pro-motion of traditional varieties of cultivated plants as well as of breeds and strains of domestic animals. All the traditional farm products based on these plants and animals also need their own plans.

We hope that the publication of this book will set off many suchlike and other useful activities which will restore the essential role, place and importance of traditional varieties and breeds in sustainable agricul-ture, the economy, the tourist industry and the pro-tection of the natural and cultural/historical inherit-ance, not of Dalmatia alone, but of the whole of Cro-atia and, indeed, the international neighbourhood.

It is particularly important to carry out cataloguing of traditional farm products of Dalmatia based on landrace plants and animals. Such a catalogue has to cover all product groups, or more precisely, the fol-lowing food products and beverages: flour, bread, flat-bread, rusks, edible oil, wine, vinegar, spirits, meat and meat products, milk, cheese, dairy products, products of eggs, honey, fruit and vegetable products and oth-ers; as well as non-food plant and animal products: decorative plants, ethereal oils, extracts, herbs, natural pesticides, natural pigments, tobacco, clothing, foot-wear and other products of traditional agriculture.

A catalogue of traditional agricultural products of Dalmatia should become a signpost, a manual, a

source of new ideas for entrepreneurs and managers, as well as a tested model for the making of similar catalogues, with a known methodology, for other re-gions of Croatia (Istria, Primorje and Kvarner, Lika, Central Croatia, Slavonia) and ultimately an example of good practice for the whole of the Mediterranean and for Europe.

tradicijske sorte i pasmine dalmacije sazetak&summary

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