tma inflight magazine

Maldives:A Unique Perspective

A dive before breakfast We Are The Champions:2013 is the Year of Surfing Competitions in the Maldives

PUBLISH YOURAERIAL PHOTOGRAPHS

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

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THE PERFECT HIDEAWAY warm . wonderful . welcoming

Maldives is the pinnacle of desert island hideaways. Where soft powdery beaches, clear warm seas and modern luxury are in perfect harmony under a golden sun Its no wonder the Maldives has become the most desired holiday destination in the world.

Crown Tours Maldives, a pioneer of modern tourism, is your ideal travel partner and gateway to experience Maldives like its meant to be. Our selection of luxury resorts and cruises are designed to make your holiday a pleasant and memorable one.

Fasmeeru Building 5th Flr Boduthakurufaanu Magu P.O. Box 2034 Male Maldives T +960 332 9889 F +960 331 2832 [email protected]

WWW.CROWNTOURSMALDIVES.COM

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Voyages Maldives, Narugis, Chandhanee Magu, Male 20191, MaldivesT: +960 332 2019, F: +960 332 5336, E: [email protected], W: www.voyagesmaldives.com

Your own private ocean home in the Maldives for as long as you wish...

Safari Boats l Ground Handling l Aviation Services l Airline Reservations l Resort Reservations

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Kanuhura, The Maldives

As sure as the sun gives way to the moon and stars, your day is made in Kanuhura

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Palm Beach Resort & spaa real Made in Italy resort since 1999

Come to Palm Beach, come to Maldives

www.palmbeachmaldives.com

LHAVIYANI ATOLL, THE MALDIVES

TEL: +960 662 00 66| FAX: +960 662 00 77

EMAIL: [email protected] KANIFUSHI MALDIVES

ATMOSPHERE-KANIFUSHI.COM

IYANIATOLL,THEMALDIVES

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Wrecked in the Maldives

Top 7 dive sites

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Palm Beach Resort & spaa real Made in Italy resort since 1999

Come to Palm Beach, come to Maldives

www.palmbeachmaldives.com

L H AV I Y A N I A T O L L , T H E M A L D I V E S

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Think Associates Pvt. Ltd.3rd Floor, M.Chaandhaneege, Majeedhee Magu, Male, Republic of MaldivesTel: +960 334 2640, Fax: +960 334 2642Email: [email protected]

Please address all enquiries to:Ahmed Fazeel, Busness Development ManagerMail: [email protected]

Published by

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Trans Maldivian Airways Pvt. Ltd.Male International Airport, Republic of MaldivesPhone: +960 331 52 01, Telefax: +960 331 52 03www.transmaldivian.com

Welcome to this new edition of Inflight.

As you fly over the emerald isles and the turquoise lagoons of the Maldives, and if you have some time away from the mesmerizing view from the window, take a peek into the Maldives people, history culture and the vast horizon of activities that you can enjoy during your stay in the Maldives.

EdITORS NOTE

AUTHORS

Thomas Pickard is a freelance photographer and writer who lived in the Maldives for two-years, producing over twenty articles on the country.

Donna Richardson is a freelance writer who has lived and worked in the Maldives. She has written a variety of articles on the Maldives from her real life experiences in the country.

Adrian Neville has been photographing and writing about the Maldives since living here in 1993/94. He has traveled throughout the country documenting island life.

Sarah Harvey is a British travel journalist and resort reviewer based in Male. She has lived in the Maldives for almost three years.

disclaimer TMA Inflight Magazine is published for Trans Maldivian Airways Pvt. Ltd. by Think Associates Pvt. Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission

of Trans Maldivian Airways Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Copyright 2011 by Trans Maldivian Airways Pvt. Ltd. Opinions in Inflight are the writers and not necessarily endorsed by Trans Maldivian Airways Pvt. Ltd. Trans Maldivian Airways Pvt. Ltd. and Think Associates Pvt. Ltd. accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies other material. Every effort has been made to provide accurate information in the magazine and kindly please contact the publisher to call to attention of any errors or omissions in the TMA Inflight Magazine.

In this issue we bring you pieces written by well-heeled writers, who have lived here and experienced for themselves what they have written about. A dive before breakfast written by Adrian Neville narrates the first hand experience of a dive safari while Wrecked in the Maldives by Donna Richardson looks at some well-known wreck dives that spot the reefs of the archipelago. We are the Champions by Sarah Harvey looks at the surf scene that is becoming increasing popular with the international surfing community. Two articles A Brief History of Maldives and A Unique Perspective by Thomas Pickard gives a glimpse of the life in the Maldives today and in the past.

If you are on your way to your resort we wish you a great holiday in the Maldives and if you are returning from your resort we hope it has been the holiday that you have wished for.

Enjoy you flight!

Adheel IsmailEditor

MAGAZINEISSUE 01 | 2013

TMA INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

www.transmaldivian.com

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www.transmaldivian.com53 52

North Ari Atoll

South Male Atoll

South Ari Atoll

Faafu Atoll

Vaavu Atoll

Meemu Atoll

Dhaalu Atoll

Thaa Atoll

North Male Atoll ( Kaafu )

Baa Atoll

Lhaviyani Atoll

Noonu Atoll

Raa Atoll

Shaviyani Atoll

Haa Dhaalu Atoll

Haa Alifu Atoll

Goidhoo Atoll

Biyadhoo

Dhiggiri

Alimatha

Medhufushi

Hakuraa Huraa

Maalifushi by COMO

Niyama Maldives

Velavaru

Vilu Reef

FilitheyoRania

Holiday Island

Meeru Island

Four Seasons Kuda Huraa

Helengeli

LEGEND

Soneva Fushi

Kihaad Maldives

Reethi Beach

Landaa Giraavaru

Palm Beach

Male

Ibrahim Nasir International Airport

Komandoo

KanuhuraKuredu

Randheli

Iru Fushi

Kudafunafaru

Beach House

Atmosphere

Kuramathi

Veligandu

Reethi Rah Resort

Summer Island Village

Coco Palm

Royal Island

Dusit Thani Maldives

Anantara Kihavah

Meedhupparu

Maavelavaru

Velaa Private Island

Dholhiyadhoo

Vice Roy

Sun IslandVakarufalhi

ConradCentara

Maafushivaru

MirihiAngaga

Thudufushi

Moofushi

Kandholhudhu

W Retreat

Maayafushi

Madoogali

Nika

Gangehi

Lux Maldives

Kuda Rah

Ranveli

Vilamendhoo

Lily Beach

Athuruga

Safari Island

Ellaidhoo

Halaveli

Bathala

Etheremadivaru

Velidhu

Anantara Naladhu

RESORT

REEF

ISLAND

210 km

179 km

144 km

143 km

60 km

56 km

84 km

84 km

86 km

72 km

82 km

74 km

94 km

98 km

98 km

103 km

109 km

96 km

97 km

112 km

110 km

66 km

78 km

63 km

67 km

67 km

72 km25 km

29 km

61 km

65 km

85 km

85 km

87 km

88 km

93 km

96 km

102 km

119 km

119 km

51 km

38 km

17 km

43 km

214 km

318 km

202 km

189 km

173 km

169 km

152 km

150 km

145 km

143 km

133 km

125 km

121 km

115 km 119 km

121 km

124 km

132 km

134 km

152 km

183 km

186 km

41 km

148 km

144 km

Gan

FELIDHOO

VattaruFalhu

KUDAHUVADHOO

EquatorialChannel

AddooKandu

OneandHalfDegreeChannel

HuvadhooKandu

VeymandooKandu

KudahuvadhooKandu

DheburideythereyKandu

VattaruKandu

FulidhooKandu

VaadhooKandu

Thoddoo

Kaashidhoo

Gaafaru

NILANDHOO

AriadhooKandu

GaafaruKandu

HaniKandu

DHEKUNUBURI

DHEKUNUBURI

SOUTHMALEATOLL

THULUSDHOO

MALEMALE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

MILADHUNMADULU UTHURUBURI(Shaviyani Atoll)

MAALHOSMADULU UTHURUBURI(Raa Atoll)

ARI ATHOLHU UTHURUBURI(North Ari Atoll)

NILANDHE ATHOLHU UTHURUBURI(Faafu Atoll)

NILANDHE ATHOLHU (Dhaalu Atoll)

KOLHUMADULU ATOLL(Thaa Atoll)

NORTH HUVADHU ATOLL(Gaafu Alifu Atoll)

SOUTH HUVADHU ATOLL(Gaafu Dhaal Atoll)

FOAHMULAH(Gnaviyani Atoll)

ADDU ATOLL(Seenu Atoll)

HADHDHUMMATHI ATOLL(Laamu Atoll)

ARI ATHOLHU (South Ari Atoll)

DHEKUNUBURI

MAALHOSMADULU(Baa Atoll)

DHEKUNUBURI

MALE ATOLL(Kaafu Atoll)

FELIDHE ATOLL(Vaavu Atoll)

MULAKATHOLHU(Meemu Atoll)

FAADHIPPOLHU(Lhaviyani Atoll)

MILADHUNMADULU(Noonu Atoll)

THILADHUNMATHEE DHEKUNUBURI(Haa Dhaalu Atoll)

THILADHUNMATHEE UTHURUBURI(Haa Alifu Atoll)

A

B

TMA Destinations

B AMale



www.transmaldivian.com53 52

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Published by

Published for




EdITORS NOTE

AUTHORS









Enjoy you flight!

Adheel IsmailEditor

MAGAZINE ISSUE 01 | 2013



Template6_.indd 4-5 25/08/2013 1:14:14 AM


www.transmaldivian.com 5352

North Ari Atoll

South Male Atoll

South Ari Atoll

Faafu Atoll

Vaavu Atoll

Meemu Atoll

Dhaalu Atoll

Thaa Atoll


Baa Atoll

Lhaviyani Atoll

Noonu Atoll

Raa Atoll

Shaviyani Atoll

Haa Dhaalu Atoll

Haa Alifu Atoll

Goidhoo Atoll

Biyadhoo

Dhiggiri

Alimatha

Medhufushi

Hakuraa Huraa

Maalifushi by COMO

Niyama Maldives

Velavaru

Vilu Reef

FilitheyoRania

Holiday Island

Meeru Island


Helengeli

LEGEND

Soneva Fushi

Kihaad Maldives

Reethi Beach

Landaa Giraavaru

Palm Beach

Male


Komandoo

KanuhuraKuredu

Randheli

Iru Fushi

Kudafunafaru

Beach House

Atmosphere

Kuramathi

Veligandu

Reethi Rah Resort


Coco Palm

Royal Island

Dusit Thani Maldives

Anantara Kihavah

Meedhupparu

Maavelavaru


Dholhiyadhoo

Vice Roy


ConradCentara

Maafushivaru

MirihiAngaga

Thudufushi

Moofushi

Kandholhudhu

W Retreat

Maayafushi

Madoogali

Nika

Gangehi

Lux Maldives

Kuda Rah

Ranveli

Vilamendhoo

Lily Beach

Athuruga

Safari Island

Ellaidhoo

Halaveli

Bathala

Etheremadivaru

Velidhu

Anantara Naladhu

RESORT

REEF

ISLAND

210 km

179 km

144 km

143 km

60 km

56 km

84 km

84 km

86 km

72 km

82 km

74 km

94 km

98 km

98 km

103 km

109 km

96 km

97 km

112 km

110 km

66 km

78 km

63 km

67 km

67 km

72 km25 km

29 km

61 km

65 km

85 km

85 km

87 km

88 km

93 km

96 km

102 km

119 km

119 km

51 km

38 km

17 km

43 km

214 km

318 km

202 km

189 km

173 km

169 km

152 km

150 km

145 km

143 km

133 km

125 km

121 km

115 km119 km

121 km

124 km

132 km

134 km

152 km

183 km

186 km

41 km

148 km

144 km

Gan

FELIDHOO

VattaruFalhu

KUDAHUVADHOO

E q u a t o r i a l C h a n n e l

A d d o o K a n d u

O n e a n d H a l f D e g r e e C h a n n e l

H u v a d h o o K a n d u

V ey m

a nd o

oK a

n du

K u d a h u v a d h o o K a n d u

D h e b ur i d e y

t h e r ey K a n

d u

V a t t a r u K a n d u

F u l i d h o o K a n d u

V a a d h o o K a n d u

Thoddoo

Kaashidhoo

Gaafaru

NILANDHOO

A r i a d h o o K a n d u

G a a f a r u K a n d u

H an i

K an d

u

DHEKUNUBURI

DHEKUNUBURI

SOUTHMALEATOLL

THULUSDHOO














DHEKUNUBURI


DHEKUNUBURI








A

B

TMA Destinations

BAMale




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52

Gan

FELIDHOO

VattaruFalhu

KUDAHUVADHOO

E q u a t o r i a l C h a n n e l

A d d o o K a n d u

O n e a n d H a l f D e g r e e C h a n n e l

H u v a d h o o K a n d u

V ey m

a nd o

oK a

n du

K u d a h u v a d h o o K a n d u

D h e b ur i d e y

t h e r ey K a n

d u

V a t t a r u K a n d u

F u l i d h o o K a n d u

V a a d h o o K a n d u

Thoddoo

Kaashidhoo

Gaafaru

NILANDHOO

A r i a d h o o K a n d u

G a a f a r u K a n d u

H an i

K an d

u

DHEKUNUBURI

DHEKUNUBURI

SOUTHMALEATOLL

THULUSDHOO














DHEKUNUBURI


DHEKUNUBURI








A

B

North Ari Atoll

South Male Atoll

South Ari Atoll

Faafu Atoll

Vaavu Atoll

Meemu Atoll

Dhaalu Atoll

Thaa Atoll


Baa Atoll

Lhaviyani Atoll

Noonu Atoll

Raa Atoll

Shaviyani Atoll

Haa Dhaalu Atoll

Haa Alifu Atoll

Goidhoo Atoll

Biyadhoo

Dhiggiri

Alimatha

Medhufushi

Hakuraa Huraa

Regent Maldives

Niyama Maldives

Velavaru

Vilu Reef

FilitheyoRania

Holiday Island

Meeru Island


Male

Helengeli

LEGEND

RESORT

Soneva Fushi

Kihaad Maldives

Reethi Beach

Landaa Giraavaru

Palm Beach


Male


Komandoo

KanuhuraKuredu

Randheli

Iru Fushi

Kudafunafaru

Beach House

Atmosphere

Kuramathi

Veligandu

Reethi Rah Resort


Coco Palm

Royal Island

Dusit Maldives

Anantara Kihavah

Meedhupparu

Maavelavaru


Dholhiyadhoo

Vice Roy


ConradCentara

Maafushivaru

MirihiAngaga

Thudufushi

Moofushi

Kandholhudhu

W Retreat

Maayafushi

Madoogali

Nika

Gangehi

Lux Maldives

Kuda Rah

Ranveli

Vilamendhoo

Lily Beach

Athuruga

Safari Island

Ellaidhoo

Halaveli

Bathala

Etheremadivaru

Velidhu

Anantara Naladhu

TMA Destinations

A B210 km

179 km

144 km

143 km

60 km

56 km

84 km

84 km

86 km

72 km

82 km

74 km

94 km

98 km

98 km

103 km

109 km

96 km

97 km

112 km

110 km

66 km

78 km

63 km

67 km

67 km

72 km25 km

29 km

61 km

65 km

85 km

85 km

87 km

88 km

93 km

96 km

102 km

119 km

119 km

51 km

38 km

17 km

43 km

214 km

318 km

202 km

189 km

173 km

169 km

152 km

150 km

145 km

143 km

133 km

125 km

121 km

115 km119 km

121 km

124 km

132 km

134 km

152 km

183 km

186 km

41 km

148 km

144 km

REEF

ISLAND

52

new cover.indd 52 01/10/2013 6:19:58 PM



Published by

Published for




EdITORS NOTE

AUTHORS









Enjoy you flight!

Adheel IsmailEditor




new cover.indd 5 01/10/2013 5:52:16 PM



Published by

Published for




EdITORS NOTE

AUTHORS









Enjoy you flight!

Adheel IsmailEditor




new cover.indd 5 01/10/2013 5:52:16 PM




IN THE NEXT ISSUE


FREE COPY

new cover.indd 1 23/10/2013 9:04:57 PM

ContentsWelcome on board

Maldives; beyond the sun, seaand sand Fact, figures and information that may be of interest when you are in the Maldives.

A dive before breakfast Anyone not going on the

first dive tomorrow, said the dive leader. Unlike the resort way of doing things, on a dive safari you have to actually opt out of the first dive of the day.

Maldives a brief history For a small island nation

located in a remote area of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives has a history marked by Buddhist influences, Arab traders and Portuguese invaders.

We are the champions; 2013 is the Year of Surfing Competitions in the Maldives

It seems as though 2013 should be named the Year of Surfing Competitions as the Maldives celebrates not just one but several competitive surfing events.

Maldives; a unique perspective Coral walled houses;

long days boat building and family picnics on deserted islands. Writer and photographer Thomas Pickard explores a unique side of the Maldives.

Wrecked in theMaldives The story behind

ghostly sunken vessels and its forgotten-cargo is as much a part of the diving delight as the colourful coral which colonises these eerie echoes of the past.

Maldivian Delicacy Recipes from one of the most renowned local culinary masters in the Maldives

The Seaplane

TMA Route Map & Destinations

TMA INFLIGHT MAGAZINE ISSUE 01 | 2013

11 3612

40

46

18

50

24

5230




BE OUR GUEST

Fly the Worlds Leading Airline* across our network Middle East, Africa, Europeand The Americas.

Etihad Airways oers seamless one-stop connections to over 80 worldwide destinations.

On board, look forward to a totally captivating experience with our private suite in Diamond First Class and fully-flat beds with direct aisle access in Pearl Business Class.

In Coral Economy Class, we provide every guest with noise reduction headphones, over 650 hours of on-demand in-flight entertainment and a selection of hot beverages.

Intrigued to find out why weve been voted the Worlds Leading Airline, four years in a row?

Be our guest.

Mal to Abu Dhabi and beyond, daily

For more information, +960 301 8866@ [email protected]

*World Travel Awards 2012.

THE WORLD IS OUR HOMEBE OUR GUEST

etihad.com | visitabudhabi.ae

FLY ETIHAD AIRWAYS TO ABU DHABI AND BEYOND

Job No: 212211 Client: Etihad Campaign: Trans Maldvian Airways Proof No: 01 Publication: Maldvian in-flight magazine Insertion Date: 01/07/2013 Approver:

BE OUR GUEST

Fly the Worlds Leading Airline* across our network Middle East, Africa, Europeand The Americas.

Etihad Airways oers seamless one-stop connections to over 80 worldwide destinations.

On board, look forward to a totally captivating experience with our private suite in Diamond First Class and fully-flat beds with direct aisle access in Pearl Business Class.

In Coral Economy Class, we provide every guest with noise reduction headphones, over 650 hours of on-demand in-flight entertainment and a selection of hot beverages.

Intrigued to find out why weve been voted the Worlds Leading Airline, four years in a row?

Be our guest.

Mal to Abu Dhabi and beyond, daily

For more information, +960 301 8866@ [email protected]

*World Travel Awards 2012.

THE WORLD IS OUR HOMEBE OUR GUEST

etihad.com | visitabudhabi.ae

FLY ETIHAD AIRWAYS TO ABU DHABI AND BEYOND

Job No: 212211 Client: Etihad Campaign: Trans Maldvian Airways Proof No: 01 Publication: Maldvian in-flight magazine Insertion Date: 01/07/2013 Approver:

Dear Guest:

Welcome on board.

When you boarded our seaplane you must have noticed the two colors of our

fleet and perhaps wondered whether you were on the right flight! Rest assured

you are.

We have recently merged the two seaplane operators in the Maldives Trans Maldivian Airways and Maldivian Air

Taxi into one strong airline with a bright future, poised to serve you, and all our stakeholders, better. The combined

company operates the worlds largest seaplane fleet from the worlds largest waterdrome.

The Stakeholders of both companies have every reason to be optimistic about the future of the combined company

and the opportunities it will create. As we complete the merger, we are focusing on improving an already high

standard of service and safety.

We are delighted to have you on board with us. Thank you for giving us the opportunity to be your chosen means of

transfer to your resort. As you embark on your journey in the Maldives, we hope that we can contribute to making

your trip an unforgettable and unique experience of a lifetime.

Your safety, security and satisfaction are our highest priority. We continue to strive to set new standards of excellence

in all three. Our recent merger will only enhance this effort. As a company, we are perpetually managing safety-related

issues. Our safety focus is in three main areas: safety leadership focused on incident prevention, staff training and

incident management. This three-tiered program is designed to maintain continuous improvement in safety practices

at all levels of the business.

Our people help to make us the most unique airline in the world. Over 800 staff help make your journey punctual,

seamless and memorable. Our staff consists of mostly local Maldivians, and are all very qualified for their roles and

have each gone through rigorous training to enable us to deliver best-in-class services to you. Our people are driven

by their continuous endeavor to consistently deliver an unbeatable customer experience. They are guided by a Board

of high caliber, unmatched wisdom, pioneering and spirit. We understand that how we interact and responsibly

connect, with our passengers and customers, in the air and on the ground, is a key factor in building good and

lasting relationships.

During these exciting times of the merger we gratefully acknowledge the steadfast support of the resorts across this

nation. We also offer our gratitude to the Government of Maldives for their enlightened vision to make the Maldives

one of the worlds most Preferred Tourist Destinations. The Governments actions to Promote, Preserve and Protect

the Tourism industry have been noteworthy. We look forward to supporting the Government in this mission and to

improve access to seaplane flights nationwide.

On our flight path to your destination, we promise you, and all stakeholders, that we shall strive to beat expectations.

We are committed to acting sustainably in everyones interest and to the environment we serve.

We hope you have an enjoyable flight, on our seaplane which is an intrinsic part of the Enthralling Maldives

Experience!

Richard B Saldanha

Chairman



Welcome on board!It is pleasure to have you on board this flight of TMA. If you have flown with us before you may

have noticed some changes including the cover and the appearance of this Inflight magazine.

Although the livery and the appearance of the aircraft in the docks still retains the distinctive red

and black of Maldivian Air Taxi and the yellow and blue of Trans Maldivian Airways, both companies

are now one and the same flying under the umbrella of TMA which merges the operations, aircraft,

terminals and staff of both Maldivian Air Taxi and Trans Maldivian Airways.

With a fleet that now consists of 44 aircraft, TMA is the largest seaplane operator in the world. We

operate 120,000 flights and serve over 800,000 passengers per year from our two terminals and

docks at Ibrahim Nasir International Airport.

For our passengers, the increased scale of our operations just offers a greater degree of freedom,

in flights, destinations and services. And now we are able to combine our wealth of knowledge

and experience in this unique form of travel to enhance your travel with us and offer you greater

products and services that will create lasting memories of your holidays in the Maldives.

We wish you a pleasant flight and a memorable holiday in the Maldives.

A.U.M Fawzy

CEO




12

Geography: The Maldives consists of approximately 1,190 coral islands grouped in a double chain of 27 atolls, spread over roughly 90,000 square kilometers, making the country one of the most unique destinations in the world. The islands stretch over a distance of 800 km from north to south.

Climate: The temperature of Maldives ranges between 24oC and 33o C throughout the year. Although the humidity is relatively high, the constant sea breeze helps to keep the air moving. The average sea temperate is around 26oC.

Population: The population of Maldives has increased rapidly during the last few decades. However with a population of approximately 360,000, the country still remains one of the smallest independent nations in the world.

Religion: Maldivians are devout Muslims and rigorously follow the basic tenets of Islam. The Islamic Center which accommodates more than 5,000 worshippers dominates the skyline of the capital city Male with its shinning golden dome and minaret. Several mosques are dispersed throughout the capital and each inhabited island is graced with at least one or two mosques where the people attend to their daily prayers.

History: Archeological remains excavated in different parts of the country prove that people were living here as early as third century BC. The Maldives and its people are mentioned in several mariners logs and records of naval expeditions by the Chinese and the Arabs and later the British and other European explorers.

Maldivesbeyond the sun, sea and sand


Culture: A proud history and rich culture evolved from the first settlers who were from various parts of the world travelling the seas in ancient times. The Maldives has been a melting pot of different culture as people from different parts of the world came here and settled down. Some of the local music and dance for instance resemble African influences, while other cultures and traditions reflect East Asian and South Asian characteristics and traits.

Language: Dhivehi spoken throughout the Maldives is a language belonging to the Indo-Iranian group of languages. The language is spoken only in the Maldives and Minicoy Island in the Lakshad-weep Atoll (India) to the north of the Maldives. The present script, Thaana was introduced in the late 16th century and is written from right to left. English is widely spoken by Maldivians and visitors

can easily make themselves understood getting around the capital Male. In the resorts, a variety of languages are spoken by the staff including English, German, French, Italian, Japanese and Chinese.

Capital Island: Male, which is about 2 sq kms is the capital of the country. It is the center of administration and the hub of trade and commerce. More than 100,000 people live in Male.

Economy: In the last quarter of the twentieth century, the economy changed from the age-old traditional system based on fisheries and agriculture to a modern economy that rode on the success of the newly established tourism industry and a modernized and mechanized fishing industry. Maldivians enjoy the highest GDP per capita in South Asia today.

Currency: The local currency is Rufiyaa. At the time of publication, the exchange rate is pegged between MVR.10.25 and 15.42 to a US Dollar. If you are heading to a resort, you need not worry about local currency as all your bills at the resort can be paid by US Dollar, Euro or any other European currency. All major credit cards are also accepted at the resorts. However, if you are visiting Male or any of the local islands, you may need to hold local currency for purchases you may wish to make.


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Education: Maldives boasts one of the highest literacy rates in the world with 98% of the countrys population being able to read and write. Educational standards are among the highest in the region and schools follow the British system of education.

Health: The Indhira Gandhi Memorial Hospital (IGMH) in Male is the state run general hospital in the country providing a high standard of medical care. ADK Hospital is one of the private health care facility in the country among several other private hospitals and clinics. Most resorts have a resident doctor and a decompression chamber is within easy reach in case of a diving emergency.

Business Hours: The working week in Maldives begins on Sunday and ends on Thursday. Government offices are open from 08:00 to 15:00 hours and the private sector from 09:00 to 17:00 hours. Most offices in the private sector open for business on Saturdays. Weekend falls on Friday and Saturday.

Communication: All resorts offer IDD telephone services. Mobile telephone services in the country are offered by Wataniya Telecom Maldives and Dhiraagu. Both companies have roaming agreements with various operators across the globe, which will enable you to use your home number while in Maldives. All the resorts in Maldives offer Internet services. Some resorts offer broadband connections in the room while others offer Wi-Fi zones at key locations on the island.

Country Dialing Code: +960

Shopping: The northern end of Chaand-hanee Magu in Male is the place to be if you are looking for souvenirs to take home. A range of batik sarongs and wraparounds, wooden handicrafts, candles and other knick knacks are available from the shops lining the street. You will also be able to find some souvenir items if you visit the neighbor-ing islands near your resort. Lookout for genuine Maldivian hand painted t-shirts and lacquered boxes, miniature dhonis and reed mats if you really want to take a piece of Maldives with you as a memento.

Electricity: 240 Volts AC

Local Time: +5 GMT


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Anyone not going on the first dive tomorrow, make sure you have written your name on the board, said the dive leader. Looking around the dinner table at his contented guests he continued, Anyone? No, good. Then Ill see you all at 6 tomorrow morning.

before breakfastA dive

The noise and rattle from the engine of the con-verted fishing boat, the basic food of bananas, rice and fish, and the strictly limited amount of fresh water and electricity all meant you had to be up for the adventure if you wanted to go on a Maldives dive safari. But few places in the world can reward divers like this country can. It competes with Indonesia for the greatest number of species and beats all comers for the sheer mass of fish. Further-more, on every resort and safari boat is inculcated the notion of preservation and best practice to minimise negative effects. So what there is today remains there tomorrow. Add to this mix the unique peace and quiet of the minimalist seascapes, the islands without mountains, rivers or population (for the most part), and the answer to why dive safaris are so popular becomes as clear as the January sea.

Today the safari boats are floating palaces compared to the original dhonis. The boat I had the pleasure of joining, Carpe Vita, has the typical layout for boats at the upper end of the market. The lower deck has 8 bedrooms, of which 2 are for staff. The second deck has the galley and lounge. The third deck has two suites, the bar and restaurant and the bridge (the captains domain). Everywhere indoors is air conditioned and out of doors there is some space on each deck for sitting, chatting and looking out to sea. Then, finally, on the roof are sun loungers, a jacuzzi and even a little space for dancing if the moment takes you.

Unlike the resort way of doing things, on a dive safari you have to actually opt out of the first dive of the day or youre going to be woken up at dawn along with every other guest on the boat. This is a holiday for enthusiasts, people with a single driving passion. Yes, it would be handy if the boat was comfortable and the food was good but, really, what matters is the diving, that HAS to be good.

It is the same for surfers on a surfing safari boat and for anglers on a fishing safari. Get the surfers to a good break and they will stay in the water all day. Divers demand at least 4 dives a day, every day: the first before breakfast, the last around sunset with the occasional night dive as well.

Whereas the world now sees the Maldives as an ultimate luxury destination - a combination of perfect beach and lagoon around a world-class resort - for many years the country was only known as a divers paradise. The first tourists in 1972 were groups of Italian, German and Swedish divers. Although they stayed on one or other of the two resorts, Kurumba and Bandos, they all went off on long diving excursions. The very first group spent a week on a dhoni, camping every night as they sailed from Kurumba to Kuramathi on Rasdhoo Atoll. It wasnt until the next year that a few of the countrys dhonis were converted to take an engine. And then Bandos had the honour of acquiring the first dedicated safari boat.

By: Adrian Neville


key thing is group dynamics: sometimes it blossoms from day one, usually people come together on the second or third day but just occasionally people dont quite gel. For us, with a wacky southern song man and two beautiful half-women half-fish, how could it be other than strange and wonderful.

Beside dealing with each other, group dynamics can also be affected by how people deal with

disappointment. Expectations are sky high when the boat sets off from the harbour but the first dives might very well not deliver on those visions. Tensions can just begin to rise if one dive after another is considered to be just ordinary. Most divers have

their own favourite fish they look out for. It may be as small as a fire goby or nudibranch but, like the big game of East Africa, there are a few big fish that everyone wants to see sometime during their trip. These are the sharks (particularly the trophy Hammerheads), the ever strange and graceful Manta Rays and the Whale Shark, the largest fish in the world. Of these the last two are absolutely critical for a successful safari.

Happily it is almost a certainty that Mantas will be seen at some time, as every boat knows a large number of Manta Points and favourite lagoons. But Whale Sharks are much more elusive. There is one area along the southern tip of South Ari Atoll where you will very often see them but it is not a guarantee. And as it is the most likely place, at high season you could be jostling with 50 or 60 others. So I felt just a little bit special (and smug) when I snorkelled almost alone around a large Whale Shark as my fellow divers were off somewhere else searching. Everyone enjoyed it a little later but I now felt I could write my name on that board and give the dawn dive a miss.

Just as diving is popular throughout the world, so the guests on a dive safari can be an extraordinary mix of nationalities, ages and personalities. It is un-usual, still, for Americans to fly half the way around the world to holiday on a Maldives resort but you will find them on top end dive safari boats. My own trip was shared with an American who recorded pieces for Scuba Radio alongside a guitar picking Scuba Cowboy and two mermaids (no really). The


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A Brief HistoryMaldives

For a small island nation located in a remote area of the indian Ocean, the Maldives has a history marked by Buddhist influences, arab traders and Portuguese invaders. By Thomas Pickard.

Early SettlersThe knowledge of who were the first settlers of the Maldives has been lost to the ages. It is widely believed that the Maldives were probably first pop-ulated by seafaring Dravidian people, who would have originated from the coastal regions of India and Sri Lanka. Unfortunately for archaeologists, no remains of any sort have been found from this period, in part because of the perishable material that would have been used for shelter and the like, and which no longer exist. With no oral history being passed on from this time, archaeologists have inferred that the early settlers may have inhabited the islands for thousands of years prior to the first recorded Buddhist remains.

Buddhism InfluencesToday, the significance of early Buddhist influences is excluded from Maldivian history text. The period prior to the 1153 conversion to Islam is known simply as Jahiliya or the age of ignorance. Archae-

ological remains that include Buddhist stupas and monasteries as well as Buddhist script have been found throughout the Maldives since the 1800s. Such finds prove conclusively that the Maldives prior to Islamic conversion had a largely Buddhist culture with a widespread influence on the popula-tion of the time.

Arab Traders and IslamThe strategic importance of the Maldives location in the Indian Ocean and the fact that it lays in the di-rect trading route between the Middle East and the Far East cannot be underestimated from a historical perspective. Early Arab traders began stopping in Male on their return journey from the Far East. Not only did Male serve as a welcome port to rest, it also represented another trading stop, allowing the


Despite being skilled seaman and navigators the Arabs realised that the waters surrounding the Maldives islands with its complex and uncharted reefs was a dangerous place to navigate a vessel. By the ninth century, Arab maps showed that the traders understood the location of most of the northern atolls as well as what is now known as

Experiencing HistoryMany resorts offer guided day

trips to the capital Male. a guided trip is definitely an experience as you are guided around the narrow, scooter clogged streets of what is one of the

worlds most unique capitals. along the way you will visit some of the Maldives

most important sites, including the famed tomb of abu al Barakat near

Hukuru Miskiiy, the oldest mosque in the country. The newly refurbished National Museum has a number of

displays showing pre-islamic Buddhist relics as well as items once owned by the

ruling sultans of the time.

Arabs to trade for dried Maldivian fish which is still exported today and cowrie shells.

Cowrie shells were used as an international curren-cy around this time and the Maldives was known for its plentiful supply, so much so, that the islands were known both as the Cowrie Islands and the Money Isles. Today the relevance of the cowrie shell lives on it is the symbol for the Maldivian Monetary Authority.

the One and Half Degree Channel in the south of the country. As the shipwrecks of the subsequent centuries would prove, the Maldives would continue to be a formidable place to take a vessel with its relatively uncharted waters.

With the importance of the Maldives as a trading destination cemented in the Arab traders mind of the day, it seems a logical step that an Arab would convert the country to an Islamic culture something the Arabs had already done in Malabar

(Indias southwest coast) in the seventh century. Abu Al Barakat, a Sunni Muslim is credited with converting the country to Islam in 1153. As legend has it, Barakat took the place of one of the virgin girls that were offered as a sacrifice to Rannamaari or sea jinni, driving the demon away with a reading from the Quran. Today, Barakats tomb located near Hukuru Mosque in Male is considered one of the most important sites in the country and is a regular stop for guided visitor tours to the capital.

Though the king of the day readily adopted the Sultan title and ordered the people of the country to convert, artefacts from the twelfth century show that the Islamic conversion experienced bloodshed. Copperplates found on Isdhoo Island in Laamu Atoll have inscriptions which indicate that monks were taken from the monastery of the island and


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subsequently beheaded in Male. Despite this, six Islamic Dynasties followed with a total of 84 sultans (kings) and sultanas (queens).

Portuguese RuleThe start of the sixteenth century marked the arrival of Portuguese traders in the Maldives. With exten-sive trading powers already established in parts of western India, the Portuguese - like the Arab traders - did not take long to realise the value of the Maldives location on the sea going trade route to the Far East, as well as a trading destination in its own right.

Despite obtaining permission to set up a factory in Male for trading purposes, the Portuguese in 1518 took Male with one hundred and twenty men under the command of Joao Gomes. Gomes subsequently fortified the capital, installing cannons as well as harassing and robbing the locals. Three

years later in 1521, the Maldivians hired a pirate who along with twelve Malabar paraos captured and slaughtered the ruling Portuguese, ultimately freeing the Maldivian capital.

Thirty-seven years later - in 1558 - Captain Andreas Andre invaded Male, killing the Sultan of the time, Ali VI. The Portuguese went on to rule the Maldives until 1573, when Muhammad Bodu Thakurufaanu led a small group of men on a guerrilla style assault of the capital, eventually capturing and killing all

Portuguese. While the Portuguese tried to retake the Maldives in 1632 and 1649, Thakurufaanu and his men had effectively ended Portuguese rule. Thaku-rufaanu went on to rule the next Sultanic dynasty as Sultan Ghazi Mohammed. Today Thakurufaanus efforts are celebrated annually as National Day, an important day in the history of the country.

British Influences and the ConstitutionWhile the Maldives became a British protectorate in 1887, British involvement with the Maldives actually dates back to the late seventeenth century when British trade ships operating under the East India Company entered Maldivian waters.

The Persia Merchant became ship wrecked in 1658 in the Maldives and is the first recorded encounter


between British sailors and local Maldivians. Over the next one hundred and fifty years, British ships continued to be shipwrecked on the multitude of reefs surrounding the Maldives islands. While some captains reported being well looked after by the locals, other ships disappeared entirely with unsubstantiated reports emerging years later that the crews had been slaughtered by locals.

With a history of hundreds of wrecks and countless lost lives, the British decided to properly map the Maldivian waters. Between 1834 and 1836, Commander Moresby of the Indian Navy with his ship Benares, systematically explored and mapped the island archipelago. Of his time in the Maldives, Moresby reported that the locals always treated us with kindness and respect, yet with shyness and suspicion. This last reference referring to the fact that the local islanders had difficulty believing that the Captain was charting the Maldives solely for the safe passage of future ships passing through the Maldives.

In 1932 the countries first ever constitution was imposed. Two years later in 1934, Sultan Shamsud-din was ousted and in his place Hasan Nurudin was elected. In 1953 the Maldives was declared a republic with the sultanate abolished, though it didnt last long a year later first president Amin Didi was ousted with Mohammed Farid Didi elected as sultan.

The sixties and seventies were pivotal decades for the Maldives. The 26th of July 1965 marks the day that the Maldives gained complete independence from Britain. Three years later in 1968 a referen-dum lead to the second attempt at a republic with the out going sultan Majeed Didi being replaced by the president elect, Ibrahim Nasir. The early seventies also marked the beginning of the tourism boom, with Kurumba Village, the first resort in the country opening for business. At the same time, commercial fishing was modernised and new offshore markets developed for increasing yellow fin and skipjack tuna exports. The end of the seventies saw Ibrahim Nasir replaced by the then Maldivian UN ambassador, Maumoon Abdul Gayoom. Gayoom reign as president ended in November 2008, when former political prisoner Mohamed Nasheed won an over whelming majority in what was widely considered the countries first democratic elections.

Present DayToday the Maldives economy relies heavily on what can only be described as the booming tourism market and an ever-expanding commercial fishing industry. Both industries contribute significantly to the nations gross domestic product, whilst employing a large portion of the Maldivian popu-lation. Outside of the capital Male, local islanders have benefited from better access to hospitals on the atolls, a steady supply of electricity and the installation of a reliable mobile phone network, on par with any developed country in the world.

Further ReadingDhivehi Raajje A Portrait of Maldives by Adrian NevilleMaldives: Kingdom of a Thousand Isles by Andrew Forbes and Kevin BishopThe Maldives Islanders: A Study of the Popular Culture of an Ancient Ocean Kingdom by Xathier Romero-Frias

Thomas Pickard is a writer and photographer who lived in the Maldives for two years.


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While the Maldives is known around the globe as a luxury holiday destination, over the past few decades it has also steadily built up a reputation for world-class surfing. Many surf tourists cruise around the atolls on safari boats in search of the best waves; some stay at resorts which cater to surfers and others stay at guesthouses on local islands with good surf such as Thulusdhoo and Himmafushi. Maldivians have also been enjoying surfing on home

We are the Champions:2013 is the Year of Surfing Competitions in the MaldivesBy: Sarah Harvey

It seems as though 2013 should be named the Year of Surfing Competitions as the Maldives celebrates not just one but several competitive surfing events this year each one with its very own distinctive style.

territory for many years, with the Australian Tony Hussein Hinde (who made the Maldives his home) credited with popularizing the activity locally.

The nation boasts a range of high quality surfing spots and many of them are in Male Atoll. Some are public breaks (where tourists, Maldivians and expats are free to share the area) and some are privately owned (belonging to resorts and for use by tourists only). The top spots in Male Atoll include Jailbreaks, Cokes, Sultans, and Honkeys (which are currently all public) while the best private surf points in the area include Pasta Point at Chaaya Reef Dhonveli and Kandooma Right


line-up; defending champion Damien Hardmen (USA), Tom Curren (USA) and Pedro Henrique (Brazil).

Damien says: Its great to be returning to Kuda Huraas luxurious surrounds with my wife Belinda, as shes as excited as me. That being said, Ill be gunning for the Champions Trophy and the $25,000 prize money for sure!

As the surfers compete in a showdown across three surfboard divisions (retro single fins, twin fins and modern thrusters), enthusiastic guests with day passes watch from the comfort of the Four Seasons Explorer vessel whilst enjoying champagne and canaps, in true Four Seasons style!

There will also be an event for Maldivian surfers running alongside the Champions Trophy event, known as the Four Seasons Maldives Domestic Champions Trophy. Last year Maldivian surfing champ, Hussain Areef, scooped the MVR. 25,000 prize with his amazing skills.

June 20th was International Surfing Day and Holiday Inn Kandooma resort marked the occasion by launching its first ever surfing competition. Organis-ers say that they intend to hold more competitions at the resort during this years surfing season (May to October). The resort has its own private surf point, known as Kandooma Right, which usually turns out 3ft waves. The resort is also close to a few other public surf points such as Quarters.

Holiday Inn Kandoomas Tag Teams surfing event on International Surfing Day was open to all guests and staff to participate in and participants and the crowd were treated to music, a BBQ and drinks during the day.

Kandoomas Recreation Manager, Santiago Rodri-guez-Bustelo, who organized the event, says: June 20th was International Surfing Day so we decided to create a competition for guests and staff. We have a lot of talented surfers amongst our back-office staff too who would never usually get to meet guests. The competition was totally free for guests and it was for the purpose of just having fun!

They jumped into the water team by team and each team had four members. Each member could take three waves and could compete either with a short board or a long board.

at Holiday Inn Kandooma. There are also some excellent surf points in far-flung atolls sometimes surfers even hire a private seaplane charter to take them to places where they can have the entire wave to themselves.

In previous years, a handful of surfing competitions have been sporadically held in the Maldives but recently surfing competitions have seen a revival in the tropical archipelago. In fact, several resorts as well as the Maldives Surfing Association are running their own surfing competitions this year.

The Four Seasons Maldives Surfing Champions Tro-phy celebrates its third successful year in August. The glamorous event (from August 27th to Septem-ber 2nd) is organized in partnership with luxury surfing company, Tropicsurf, and sees former World Champion Surfers do battle for a $25,000 prize. All the action takes place at two of the Maldives best surf points, which happen to be a stones throw away from Four Seasons Kuda Huraa.

The resort has recently announced the first three ex World Champion surfers on this years international


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It seems as though the inaugural competition was so popular that the resort will repeat it again this season. Wed like to repeat it again in a month or so if the swell is good enough adds Santiago.

Meanwhile, the Maldives Surfing Association (MSA) is hoping to hold a National Surfing Competition later this year which will see the best surfers in the Maldives showing off their skills. Organisers say the event is still in the planning stages but they hope to hold the public event for Maldivian surfers at the end of August or early September.

The MSAs President, Ahmed Fauzan Abbas (Karo) says: It will probably be in Male mainly because

of the exposure and because its one of the most consistent waves. It is a reef break but its like a beach break because it has lefts and rights.

The MSA is searching for sponsors and the winner of the National Competition will receive a top prize. The group is also currently focussing on a campaign to save one of the most popular surf spots in the Maldives. Thanburudhoo Island in North Male Atoll has two of the best surf breaks in the Maldives, known as Sultans and Honkeys (which is where Four Seasons surfing competition is held) but the

island has controversially been sold to a developer to turn into a surf resort, which means that the two surf breaks will be privatised.

Karo says: MSAs first priority now is to save the waves and end exclusivity. Without waves to surf, there wont be any surfers or sport to develop. Its hoped that all of these competitions will help to raise the profile of surfing in the Maldives even more and show the world just what the country has to offer surfers as well as nurturing home-grown talent.

Photos: Holiday Inn Kandooma / Four Seasons Resorts Maldives.


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Mention the Maldives and most people conjure up thoughts of an idyllic island setting a place of tropical islands dotted with coconut trees, fringed with perfectly white sandy beaches, where turquoise coloured water gently laps onto the shore. In short: paradise. And while visitors jet to the Maldives from around the globe to dive, surf and just relax poolside at a resort, there is a very different sort of Maldives that few visitors have the opportunity to fully appreciate.

Situated in the vastness of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is a procession of 26 atolls with 1,192 islands stretching 800 kilometres north from the

equator. At last count, resorts occupy nearly 100 islands, with more resorts green lighted for develop-ment in the coming years. Another 200 islands are locally inhabited with communities between a few hundred to several thousand Maldivians.

During my two-year residence in the capital Male, I was fortunate to visit a number of non-resort islands. One of these was Madifushi Island, located 200-kilometres south of Male. With a population of around one thousand people, Madifushi is a tiny island on the eastern edge of Kolhumadulu (Thaa) Atoll and a place I called home during a week long stay.

The day of my speedboat trip south to Madifushi is simply stunning. With not a breath of wind, the ocean and sky are a perfect reflection of each other. I have never seen the ocean so serene. Using a route programmed into a global positioning system, our boat driver expertly negotiates the outer edges of atolls and skilfully avoids a pod of 40 dolphins as they surface for air near our speeding boat. Four hours after leaving Male, the driver eases back on the throttle and we coast gently into the harbour of Madifushi Island. Removing my earplugs, I thank the boat crew grab my bags and step onto the island proper. Unlike resorts, there is no one to meet us; no handshakes; no welcomes, no come this way please sir. Standing there, I feel anything but welcome.

I am woken early on my first morning by the call to prayer from the mosque on the island. Delivered by the mudhim or meuzzin, the call is broadcast from the top of the minaret to all those within ear shot. With no other religion permitted, Maldivians are Muslims of the Sunni sect, which is a form of Islam. The call to prayer is an integral part of life on the

by Thomas Pickard.

MaldivesCoral walled houses; long

days boat building and family

picnics on deserted islands.

Writer and photographer

Thomas Pickard explores a

unique side of the Maldives.

a unique perspective


For the first couple of days I spend hours at the boat yard, watching the men build and repair tradi-tional Maldivian boats known as dhonis. Reputably derived from the Arab dhow and are widely used throughout the Maldives for cargo transfer, fishing, general transport and tourism activities such as diving and surfing charters. The largest dhoni being built on Madifushi is over 100 feet long and will take six months to build by a crew of 20 carpenters. The workers I spoke to typically earned between 13 to 20 US dollars for a 12-hour working day, with drinks and food provided. With two large dhonis being built and four dhonis in for routine repairs, the boat yard provides much-needed income for the island. While power tools have widely replaced hand tools, building a dhoni is still done without design specifications or plans of any kind. Men use a combination of imported hardwood and local coconut trunks, which are carved into straight planks using chainsaws.

Like all non-resort islands I have visited, people move slowly and with good reason it is uncom-fortably hot for most of the day. Being February means I am visiting Madifushi during the northeast monsoon or iruvai the dry season. And while March and April are considered hotter months, by 7.30 most mornings, sweat is already starting to bead on my forearms and by midday the temperatures are spiking in the high thirties. A common sight on the islands are locals relaxing in rows of net seats under the shade of coconut trees. Originally made of rope and wooden sticks, the net seats or jolis as they are called, are now made from steel pipe and thin plastic rope woven into a mesh seat. Typically built with 3 or 4 seats side-by-side, the simple design maximises the benefits of the cool afternoon sea breeze.

On my fifth morning I am invited on a boat trip to nearby Kalhufahalafushi Island for a picnic. With all my camera gear I nervously step onto a dhoni a mere 8 metres long and already crowded with 28 kids and 11 adults - I have absolutely no idea what I am getting myself into. While the trip to the island is uneventful, as soon as we arrive the kids jump into the crystal clear water and madly wade to shore, before running off to collect coconuts. The adults disembark at a more leisurely pace before unloading the dhoni and carrying pots of dried rice and 10 litre water containers to the other side of our deserted island.

islands with five prayer times a day: once before sunrise; once at midday; once mid-afternoon; once at sunset and a final session in the evening. Shops close and workers lay down their tools for each 15-minute prayer session.

Bleary eyed I look at the time on my watch it is just past 5.00 am. I roll over and try to go back to sleep, but the room I am in has little ventilation and even at this early hour feels too hot and humid. Overhead there is no ceiling, just the underside of a corrugated iron roof with wooden beams. A fan lazily circulates warm, moist air around the room. Lying on a thin mattress on the concrete floor I wonder if I will ever get used to the early morning call to prayer and the incessant heat. The room I am in is like most houses on Madifushi; the rooms are spartan with just the bare essentials a bed, table, chair and an old wardrobe. Faded, multi-coloured curtains hang over the windows.

Up at 7.00 am I walk into the bathroom, a coral-walled room half-covered with two sheets of corrugated iron and grab the two buckets and the small, home made wooden seat that sits behind the door. Using an old oil container that has been cut, cleaned and attached to a long stick, I pull water out of the well, slowly filling up the buckets. With the sun slowly starting to filter into the bathroom, I soap up and rinse off using the water from the buckets. The bathroom has an old world charm to it. Being so used to the convenience of having water on tap, I learn to relish the simple act of pulling water from the well and in turn, learn to appreciate the value of clean water that the well provides.


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Visiting a Non-Resort Island

Many resorts offer short day trips to nearby local islands, and this is an ideal chance to see the other side of the Maldives. While it is important to support the local economy of the islands, take some time to walk around the island you visit to get a feel for what life is really like outside of the souvenir shops and to meet some of the locals.

When visiting a non-resort island, consider the following:

Woman should dress conservatively, wearing shorts or skirts that cover the knees and tops that arent short sleeved or low cut Men should wear shorts that cover the knees and avoid wearing singlets It is polite to ask locals before taking photo-graphs. Many older people can take offence at having their photo taken and you should never take photos of people praying On some islands young children are starting to ask tourists for money. As a tourist you should never give money directly to young children as it only promotes begging. If you wish to give money, donate to one of the NGOs working in the Maldives.

The picnic spot is well established with a mound of old coconut shells on the ground and recent evidence of small cooking fires beneath the shade of the trees. One woman sets up a traditional water pipe or hookah and motions for me to join her. Being a non-smoker the results are predictable: I cough hard on my first attempt at using the pipe. With some guidance and lots of laughter from the women sitting around me, I am soon enjoying what is a surprisingly smooth taste. Finished with the hookah, I am whisked away by the men to go fishing in the lagoon.

For the next two hours we patrol the edge of the lagoon, looking for shadows in the water that rep-resent schools of fish. With a school spotted, two of the teenage boys very slowly enter the water, slowly unravelling the net between them, forming a circular trap. When the net is almost fully closed, the other boys rush the fish, scaring them into the trap and closing the net full circle. It is then a matter of pulling the fish from the net one by one. While commercial net fishing is prohibited in the Maldives, it is allowed for catching bait for pole line fishing. A few of the fish caught are cooked over a small fire that day, while the rest are saved for bait in the coming days.

Before leaving the island late in the day, the younger boys use some debris that has washed up on the beach for goal posts, and in true Maldivian

style a ball is produced for an impromptu game of football. The women relax in the shade with the youngest of the children, looking on and laughing at the antics being played out before them. Six hours after we arrived, the kids wash themselves free of sand and we all wade into the shallows to climb aboard the dhoni. Within a few minutes of leaving Kalhufahalafushi Island, several of the younger children fall asleep on the deck.

On my last day on Madifushi, I visit one of the families that have befriended me to bid farewell. Despite neither of us speaking each others language, I am touched when the eldest lady takes my hand in hers and walks me to the waiting speedboat. Her hand is warm and friendly, like the people of Madifushi who have taken me in and shown me a side of the Maldives that I will never forget.


A LUXURY HIDEAWAYIf youre looking to turn your dream of an exclusive luxury Indian Ocean gateway into a reality then look no further than the beautiful 5* deluxe Constance Halaveli. Nestled on its own secluded island in the Maldives North Ari Atoll, with powder white beaches and turquoise seas teeming with colourful sea life, peace and relaxation are guaranteed.

hotel experience in Maldives

Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com


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DIvE SITESToP 7

Wrecked

Wreck diving is for many divers the ultimate in underwa-ter exploration. Divers can witness first-hand how marine ecosystems adapt to and takeover these sunken rusty relics of human civilization seeing the symbiotic rela-tionship which allows them to co-exist. The warm, clear,

calm waters of the Maldives also offer a fantastic opportunity to observe this process; as coral reefs grow over the hulls of wrecked ships, creating a magical home for local marine flora and fauna.

Magnets for an amazing variety of aquatic life, the story behind ghostly sunken vessels and its forgotten-cargo is as much a part of the diving de-light as the colourful coral which colonises these eerie echoes of the past. Some of the coolest reefs are actually wrecks that have been transformed by marine life into amazing underwater habitats. This handy guide of exploration-worthy vessels in the Maldives is the ultimate bucket-list guide to diving in this paradise.

Beneath a chain of 1,200 islands known as the Maldives, deep in the heart of the Indian ocean lies a fascinating underwater world. Due to the coun-trys many reef atolls and relatively shallow waters, many a ship has met a watery grave on its reefs. Thus some spectacular wrecks can be found on the ocean floor of this tropical diving paradise.

in the Maldives By Donna Richardson


batfish, large puffers and schools of fusiliers. You may also run into a turtle or two resting on the ledges within the wreck. Inside bottles, cigarettes and a selection of small mosaic tiles are strewn around the only reminder that human life once inhabited this vessel. Apart from fellow divers expect to see nothing but fish and corals - schools of fusiliers and jacks have permanently set up residence in the stern and bridge area, while the bow houses lion fish, soldier fish and hawk fish.

Make your way back to the stern of the ship along the outer hull where nudibranchs and pipefish nestle in the wheelhouse. As you ascend be sure to gaze beneath your fins to get a view of the entire wreck.

2 KUDA GIRI WRECK

Location: South Male Atoll some 22 km south of Male, Depth: 31 metres, Fish life: goodCoral: good with soft coral

An artificial reef known as Kuda Giri has grown around a small fishing trawler that was scuttled more than a decade ago. Lying west of Dhigufinolhu in the South Male atoll it is the perfect spot for

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1 MALDIvES vICToRY

Location: South west of Hulhule Reef on the western side of Hulhule Airport Island, North Male AtollDepth: 15-35 metres, Fish life: Average, Coral: good

On the auspicious Friday the 13th February 1981, a Singaporean cargo ship carrying goods to the capital met an untimely fate and slammed into the sea bed. Since then it has been lying in 35 metres of water slowly becoming encrusted with corals and fans that now provide shelter to countless species of fish and colonies of marine animals. The Victory provides good underwater visibility, sufficient to spot scorpion fish and honeycomb moray eels spinning around the wreck. Bannerfish, mantis shrimps and turtles have also made their home in the hull.

The Victory was carrying tourist goods to the island when it ran aground. Desperate attempts were made by local divers to salvage its treasures, which were already spoiled. On the plus side the Maldives gained an excellent dive site.

Descend down the line to the ships main deck and shelter from the current while investigating the myriad of marine life that have made this wreck their home. Expect to encounter large groupers,

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intermediate divers trying a first night dive. What is more, it is accessible all year round.

Navigate this ship from its bow, which points towards the pinnacle at 18 meters, all the way down to its stern at 30 metres and discover the vast colonies of sea life that now call the captains cabin, cargo hold and machine room home.

The wreck itself is covered by stony, staghorn and table corals as well as colourful sponges and large schools of glass fish and bat fish that have made this sunken ship their home. Divers can expect to see turtles, napoleon wrasse, jack fish, trigger fish, shrimp, lobsters, frog fish, blue fin trevally, fusiliers and leaf fish to name but a few species.

After exploring this wreck, swim back to the reef and check out the thilla and its overflowing overhangs of soft coral in which Napoleon wrasse, parrot fish, oriental sweetlips playfully flit.

3 HALAvELI WRECK

Location: North West of Halaveli Island. A 15 minute journey by boat from Halaveli, 30 minutes from Maayafushi, Depth: 20-28 metres, Fish life: Average, Coral: poor

This wreck was sunk by the Halaveli Diving Centre in 1991, from whence it gets its name. It was

originally known as Highly 18. Located just 2 km North West of the Halaveli Resort Island it is easily accessible by boat and suitable for intermediate level divers.

A couple of decades of submersion have enabled the abundant growth of coral to grip the ship and some pretty soft coral has colonised on the telegraph. Small turtles and a couple of large morays have taken up residence in the hull and divers encounter groupers and stingrays on the sandy floor.

4 FESDHU WRECK

Location South west of Fesdhu Resort Island, less than a 15 minute boat journey or 30 minutes from Maayafushi, Depth: 24-29 metres, Fish life: good, Coral: good

The Fesdhu wreck is located in the centre of the Ari Atoll, one of the most famous dive spots of the Maldives and a protected dive site area. In its former life as a fishing trawler, the 30 metre long wreck was sunk to form an artificial reef. After a slow start it has now become fully colonised with dense clouds of glassfish, anthias, butterflyfish and slow-moving lionfish.

Moray eels and red-mouthed groupers and blue-fin trevally have moved in the engine room while the bow of the wreck is now characterised by a sprinkle of good sized black coral bushes. The surface of the wreck has become encrusted with sponges and as well as hard and soft corals, tubastrea and feather-stars. Nudibranchs love feeding from the sponges.

All passages are very narrow allowing for a limited number of exits. Therefore, most dives consist of a full circle of the wreck and an exploration of its shallowest sections before moving over in a westerly direction to a nearby thila. You will probably explore around this pinnacle until you arrive at its shallowest section at around 12 metres, and then ascending to your safety stop. The thilla is abundant with soft corals, glassfish, moray eels and groupers.


5 BRITISH LoYALTY

Location: Addu Atoll, an hour long flight from MaleDepth: 16-33 metres, Fish life: GoodCoral: Good, not affected by El Nino coral bleaching.

Divers in search of history will love the British Loyalty, which was originally a cargo ship made in Newcastle, UK. The 140m long vessel la

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