timegeeks august 2014

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TIMEGEEKS URTOSSER fordi frimærker er for nørder PANERAI//GIRARD-PERREGAUX//CARTIER//ARNOLD & SON//PATEK PHILIPPE// JAEGER-LECOULTRE//GIULIANO MAZZUOLI//OMEGA SPEEDMASTER//...OG MEGET MERE AUGUST2014

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I dette nummer af det månedlige TIMEGEEKS e-magasin kan du bl.a. læse om Panerai, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe m.fl.

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Page 1: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

TIMEGEEKSURTOSSER– fordi frimærker er for nørder

PANERAI//GIRARD-PERREGAUX//CARTIER//ARNOLD & SON//PATEK PHILIPPE//

JAEGER-LECOULTRE//GIULIANO MAZZUOLI//OMEGA SPEEDMASTER//...OG

MEGET MERE

AUGUST2014

Page 2: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

franzj.comrebekkanotkin.com

mismo.dk

kære venner og veninder

den danske sommer beriger os med brune arme og store smil og i den anledning vil vi gerne dele vores egen sommerstemning og invitere til en luksuriøs aften, hvor du/i kan nyde smykker fra rebekka notkin, ure fra franz jaeger & me samt et selekteret udvalg af tasker og tilbehør fra mismo.

desuden præsenterer rebekka notkin en limiteret produktion af fine manchetknapper, som hun har lavet i selskab med kristian Haagen.

denne eksklusive begivenhed afholdes hos

rebekka notkin bredgade 25torsdag den 28. august, fra 17– 20 der vil blive serveret gode vine fra Løgismose og lette anretninger fra masH. Vi glæder os til at se dig/jer.

de bedste hilsner fra

rebekka notkin, franz jaeger & me, mismo og kristian Haagen.

rsVp: [email protected]

URTOSSEN

TIMEGEEKS.DK

TIMEGEEKS

Foto

: ric

kard

erik

sson

.com

AUGUST2014

JULI VAR EN FORBLØFFENDE MÅNED. Ikke nok med at jeg atter oplevede nye steder i verden, som jeg ikke anede fandtes og derfor fandt inspiration galore. Sørme om min Instagram konto ikke blev udråbt som én af de bedste urrelaterede af slagsen. Og dette ikke bare af et, men hele to medier! Denne anerkendelse gør mig rævestolt og motiverer til at gøre et ekstra godt stykke arbejde, hver gang kameraet sættes foran øjet.

Som du kan se her ved siden af, så inviterer Rebekka Notkin, Franz Jaeger & Me, Mismo og Urtossen til et arrangement d. 28/8, hvor Rebekka og jeg bl.a. lancerer et sæt manchetknapper, som vi har lavet i fællesskab.

Alle er velkomne, men send lige et RSVP til [email protected], hvis du agter at deltage. Der er begrænset plads i hendes forretning i Bredgade.

Med disse ord vil jeg ønske dig en rigtig god og varm eftersommeraugust. En måned, som jeg selv holder meget af. Ikke kun på grund af det ofte så fantastiske vejr, men også fordi begge mine børn har fødselsdag.

Husk også at dele denne august-udgivelse gavmildt med dine urtossede venner, eller få dem til at skrive til mig, hvis de vil på mailinglisten til verdens første og eneste gratis månedsmagasin om ure.

Med tikkende hilsner,

Kristian HaagenPassioneret indehaver af TIMEGEEKS

Page 3: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

franzj.comrebekkanotkin.com

mismo.dk

kære venner og veninder

den danske sommer beriger os med brune arme og store smil og i den anledning vil vi gerne dele vores egen sommerstemning og invitere til en luksuriøs aften, hvor du/i kan nyde smykker fra rebekka notkin, ure fra franz jaeger & me samt et selekteret udvalg af tasker og tilbehør fra mismo.

desuden præsenterer rebekka notkin en limiteret produktion af fine manchetknapper, som hun har lavet i selskab med kristian Haagen.

denne eksklusive begivenhed afholdes hos

rebekka notkin bredgade 25torsdag den 28. august, fra 17– 20 der vil blive serveret gode vine fra Løgismose og lette anretninger fra masH. Vi glæder os til at se dig/jer.

de bedste hilsner fra

rebekka notkin, franz jaeger & me, mismo og kristian Haagen.

rsVp: [email protected]

Page 4: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

PHARRELL WILLIAMS BELØNNES...IGENTALENTFULDE PHARRELL WILLIAMS VINDER RAYMOND WEIL INTERNA-TIONAL ARTIST AWARD

Findes der overhovedet et musikrelateret award, som musikgeniet Pharrell Williams ikke har vundet? Det lader vitterlig til, at den talentfulde herre bag megahit som ”Happy”, ”Get Lucky” og ”Blurred Lines” napper alle awards og nu også Raymond Weil International Artist Award. Udover æren, modtog Williams også et Raymond

TIMEGEEKS.DK

NYHEDER

Page 5: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

PHARRELL WILLIAMS BELØNNES...IGENTALENTFULDE PHARRELL WILLIAMS VINDER RAYMOND WEIL INTERNA-TIONAL ARTIST AWARD

Findes der overhovedet et musikrelateret award, som musikgeniet Pharrell Williams ikke har vundet? Det lader vitterlig til, at den talentfulde herre bag megahit som ”Happy”, ”Get Lucky” og ”Blurred Lines” napper alle awards og nu også Raymond Weil International Artist Award. Udover æren, modtog Williams også et Raymond

Weil Nabucco Rivoluzione II af DLC-behandlet titanium og stål samt keramik og kulfiber. Nabucco Rivolizione II med automatisk kronografværk har en diameter på 46 millimeter. Den imponerende præsentationsæske indholder i øvrigt også et par Sennheiser hovedtelefoner, der matcher uret med sine sort/røde farver.

www.raymond-weil.com

AUGUST 2014

Page 6: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

TIMEGEEKS.DK

NYHEDER

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MARK II RIO 2016DER ER LANG TID TIL OL I 2016. MEN OMEGA ER VED AT VÆRE KLAR MED ET SPEEDMASTER, DER HYLDER DENNE ENORME SPORTSBEGIVENHED.

For allerførste gang afholdes De Olympiske Lege i Sydamerika. Det sker, når Rio er værtsby i 2016 og denne enorme verdensbegivenhed afholdes for 27. gang.

Hvert eneste Olympiske Lege er præget af spæn-ding og motivation fra både tilskuere og de sports-udøvende deltagere fra hele verden. Vi inspireres alle af denne begivenhed; rekorder der sættes og lande, der forenes i spektakulære øjeblikke, der for evigt vil stå krystalklart i vores hukommelse.

Det er i forbindelse med De Olympiske Lege i Rio 2016, at OMEGA lancerer et Speedmaster Mark II, der hylder både de legendariske olympiske ringe samt de tre podiepladser: guld, sølv og bronze.

Selve modellen er inspireret af OMEGA Speedmaster Mark II, der blev lanceret i 1969. Den tøndeformede urkasse er lavet af børstet og poleret stål med pole-rede kronografknapper og optrækskrone.

Urets tachymeterkrans, der kan bruges til at udregne fart, ligger under et tyndt safirglas. Indekseringerne på aluminiumskransen er perforerede, hvilket betyder, at Super-LumiNova materialet nedenunder kan lyse igen-nem og derved muliggør aflæsning i dårligt lys.

Page 7: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

AUGUST 2014

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MARK II RIO 2016Speedmaster Mark II ”Rio 2016” er udstyret med sa-firglas og den sorte skive er domineret af tre registre (sekunder og 30-minutters samt 12-timers indikato-rer), der er lavet af guld, sølv og bronze, som medal-jerne om halsen af de vindende sportsfolk.

Bagkassen har ”Rio 2016 Olympic Games” logo samt det limiterede nummer (2016 styk) af denne model indgraveret.

OMEGAs lænke, med patenteret ”screw-and-pin” konstruktion, tilbyder mikrojustering i lænkens lås og har, modsat de ikke-limiterede versioner af Speed-master Mark II, polerede mellemled. De normale ver-sioner tilbyder mellemled af børstet stål.

Det automatiske Co-Axial værk, kaliber 3330, i Speedmaster Mark II ”Rio 2016” er konstrueret med Si14 silicium balancefjeder, der blandt andet sikrer værket mod magnetisme i højere grad end det er til-fældet i almindelige mekaniske urværker.

På det følgende opslag kan du se ti af de mest to-neangivende Speedmasters (i følge Omega selv). Fra det første CK 2915 fra 1957 til Dark Side of the Moon fra 2013. Jeg bider mærke i, at det flotte Apollo 11 45th Anniversary ikke er vist på denne liste. Det ville jo være et oplagt ur at vise, netop på grund af det aktuelle jubilæum.

www.omega.ch

Page 8: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

THE TEN MOST REPRESENTATIVEOMEGA SPEEDMASTER MODELS

1The OMEGA Speedmaster is a definitive candidate for the most famous chronograph in the world. Without any doubt it also is the world’s most im-portant one. Selected by as-tronauts, tested and certified by NASA and worn on the moon – it has credentials that no other watch can boast.

1959 saw the introduction of a revised Speedmaster model, the CK 2998. While the sym-metrical case and the calibre 321 were retained, new “Alpha” design hands replaced the ones found on the first model. The tachymeter bezel was also standardized in the famous black aluminium version still in use today. The CK 2998 was the very model purchased by Mercury astronauts Wal-ter “Wally” M. Schirra and Leroy G. “Gordo” Cooper in 1962 as their private watch. It was worn by Schirra during his Mercury-Atlas 8 (Sigma 7) mission, becoming the first OMEGA Speedmaster worn in space, a full two years before NASA’s now-famous tests that led to the official selection of the Speedmaster for use in all of NASA’s manned missions.

The next development within the Speedmaster family was a decisive one. Introduced in 1963, and powered by the manual-wound calibre 321, the ST 105.003 is the exact model delivered to and tested by NASA. Responding to a request for wrist chronographs in October 1964, OMEGA’s North American agent fur-nished NASA with the required number of ST 105.003 Speed-masters, without knowing exactly what they would be used for and without inform-ing OMEGA headquarters in Biel, Switzerland. These watches, as well as models from other competing brands, were tested almost to destruc-tion in a series of tests that can justly be described as the toughest trials a watch had ever endured. Emerging vic-torious and functioning within the required specifications as the sole watch that had not

While the brand had no knowl-edge of what was going on in Houston – indeed NASA’s selec-tion process was carried out without involving the respec-tive companies’ headquarters –the Speedmaster’s design was steadily evolving. In order to offer additional protection to the chronograph’s pushers and its crown, OMEGA designed a slightly altered watch case. Its right side was slightly enlarged, thus enhancing the protection. As it turned out, this “asymmetric” case would be identified the world over as one of Speedmaster’s trade-mark design-elements. It was introduced to select markets in 1964 with the model ST 105.012 that also featured the mention “Professional” on the dial, as it was indeed promi-nent part of OMEGA’s profes-sional line of watches. Powered by the same movement, the calibre 321, the model further evolved in 1967 to the ref-erence ST 145.012, with the addition of a slightly improved method of attaching the push-ers to the chronograph’s case. This model proved to be the last one to use the brand’s cal-ibre 321, the very movement that guaranteed perfect timing during all six lunar landings up to and including the very last mission to land on the moon: Apollo 17.

In 1968, one year before Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin set foot on the moon, OMEGA introduced yet another mile-stone in the Speedmaster’s evo-lution: a new movement. Bear-ing the reference ST 145.022, the new model was powered by the OMEGA calibre 861, the successor of the storied calibre 321. The new manual-wound movement featured several new design elements and reflected OMEGA’s advances in watch-making technology. Incorpo-rating some production-related improvements as well, the new movement and its succeeding versions continue to power the Speedmaster “Moonwatch” to this very day.

The “Speedmaster 125” was created in 1973 to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the founding of OMEGA in 1848. The anniversary was indicated by the polished “125” applied on the black dial. This model introduced a another develop-ment: it was powered by the calibre 1041, the world’s first automatic chronograph that was officially certified as a chronometer. Limited to 2000 pieces, it has since become a collectors’ favourite.

Bearing a name that derived from a secret NASA project in-volving a possible new version of a space shuttle vehicle, the “X-33” represented an impres-sive achievement for the brand. Designed and tested over a long period of time and span-ning several prototypes, the new “hybrid” chronograph was sub-mitted to a series of merciless tests to ensure that it would live up to its new role: the watch was worn by astronauts during the shuttle missions, inside the Rus-sian Space Station “Mir” and the International Space Station, where it continues to be worn. Developed using input from astronauts as well as profes-sional pilots, the “X-33” includ-ed an array of digital functions tailored for professional use during space missions. A world first, the launch of the “X-33” in 1998 was televised live from on board the Russian Mir station with the astronauts handling the watch while linked directly to mission control in Houston.

In 2013, OMEGA introduced the Speedmaster 57 OMEGA Co-Axial Chronograph, an in-novative new member of the Seamaster family that salutes its legendary ancestor but which was designed to experience new adventures of its very own. Among the subtle nods to the very first OMEGA Speedmaster from 1957 are the straight lugs extending from the watch case and the bracelets which recall that iconic chronograph.

The Speedmaster ‘57 models are powered by the OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301 – the first of OMEGA’s exclu-sive in-house Co-Axial calibres to incorporate a chronograph function. The column-wheel chronograph has 12-hour and 60-minute counter hands placed on the same sub-dial at 3 o’clock. This familiar arrange-ment of the hands, which recalls the hour and minute hands on the main dial, enables intuitive reading of the chronograph.

The outstanding reliability delivered by the combination of Co-Axial technology and the silicon balance spring is such that OMEGA delivers its Co-Axial watches equipped with silicon balance springs with a full four-year warranty.

The Apollo 8 astronauts were the first people to see the dark side of the moon with their own eyes. Strapped to each of their wrists was an OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch. In 2013, OMEGA created the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon”, a black ceramic ver-sion of the watch fitted with the Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301. It honours the pioneering spirit of nine Apollo missions that took their precious human cargo beyond the moon and back to earth.

This striking new chronograph has a black zirconium oxide ceramic dial, complemented by a matching ceramic 44.25 mm case with a brushed and polished ceramic case-body. It features 18K white gold applied indexes as well as two blackened sub-dials that distinguish the timepiece the “Moonwatch”. These two sub-dials are made possible by the innovative placement of the 12-hour and 60-minute counters on the same sub-dial at the 3 o’clock position, allowing a comfortable and intuitive chronograph reading.

The Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” timepiece is presented on a highly dura-ble coated nylon fabric strap complete with a black ceramic buckle. The timepiece is water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet).

The Speedmaster “Mark II”This model marked the first redesign of the classic Speed-master Moonwatch case, thus introducing a new or second generation of Speedmaster models into OMEGA’s cata-logue. Its birth year was 1969 and the name chosen was “Mark II” to signify that it was in fact the second generation of the manual-wound Speed-master. Offered in various dis-tinct iterations (stainless steel with black dial, stainless steel with grey and orange “rac-ing” and “yachting” dials, gold-plated with a gilt dial and a very rare version in 18K yel-low gold) and powered by the calibre 861, the Mark II’s bar-rel-shaped case, also referred to as the “Pilots’ Line” case, has its roots in a rather secret (at the time) project that OMEGA was working on: a further enhanced and strengthened version of the Speedmaster for prolonged EVA-use on the lunar surface. One iteration of this ambitious research project that spanned more than ten years and was code-named “Alaska” featured a strengthened and well-round-ed watch case with hooded lugs and protected crown and push-ers. When the research project shifted directions, some of the original ideas formed the basis of the “Pilots’ Line” cases and were introduced commercially in the form of the Speedmaster Mark II and the Flightmaster.

It all started rather incon-spicuously in 1957, the year OMEGA introduced its “Pro-fessional” line of watches that included the Seamaster 300, the Railmaster and the first Speedmaster. Conceived not for extra-terrestrial use but rath-er for an earthly desire – speed – the very first Speedmaster, the CK 2915, was intended for and marketed to car enthu-siasts, motorists and racing drivers. Its tachymetric bezel placed – for the first time ever – outside the dial and crystal and designed to form part of the exterior case design, was yet another world premiere in OMEGA’s long list of achieve-ments. Powered by the leg-endary manual-wound calibre 321, defined by the graceful lines of its symmetrical case design and proudly display-ing time with hands featuring a “Broad Arrow” hour-hand, the Speedmaster became an instant bestseller.

suffered catastrophic failures in the strenuous trials, NASA declared the OMEGA Speed-master as “officially certified” equipment for its manned space program. Following the successful trials, NASA pro-cured further examples of the ST 105.003 and officially equipped its astronauts with the Speedmaster. This model reached further fame when it was worn for the first time outside the space capsule: on the wrist of astronaut Edward White, this model became part of America’s first “spacewalk” (extra-vehicular activity, or EVA) on June 3rd 1965 during the Gemini 4 mission.

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Page 9: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

THE TEN MOST REPRESENTATIVEOMEGA SPEEDMASTER MODELS

1The OMEGA Speedmaster is a definitive candidate for the most famous chronograph in the world. Without any doubt it also is the world’s most im-portant one. Selected by as-tronauts, tested and certified by NASA and worn on the moon – it has credentials that no other watch can boast.

1959 saw the introduction of a revised Speedmaster model, the CK 2998. While the sym-metrical case and the calibre 321 were retained, new “Alpha” design hands replaced the ones found on the first model. The tachymeter bezel was also standardized in the famous black aluminium version still in use today. The CK 2998 was the very model purchased by Mercury astronauts Wal-ter “Wally” M. Schirra and Leroy G. “Gordo” Cooper in 1962 as their private watch. It was worn by Schirra during his Mercury-Atlas 8 (Sigma 7) mission, becoming the first OMEGA Speedmaster worn in space, a full two years before NASA’s now-famous tests that led to the official selection of the Speedmaster for use in all of NASA’s manned missions.

The next development within the Speedmaster family was a decisive one. Introduced in 1963, and powered by the manual-wound calibre 321, the ST 105.003 is the exact model delivered to and tested by NASA. Responding to a request for wrist chronographs in October 1964, OMEGA’s North American agent fur-nished NASA with the required number of ST 105.003 Speed-masters, without knowing exactly what they would be used for and without inform-ing OMEGA headquarters in Biel, Switzerland. These watches, as well as models from other competing brands, were tested almost to destruc-tion in a series of tests that can justly be described as the toughest trials a watch had ever endured. Emerging vic-torious and functioning within the required specifications as the sole watch that had not

While the brand had no knowl-edge of what was going on in Houston – indeed NASA’s selec-tion process was carried out without involving the respec-tive companies’ headquarters –the Speedmaster’s design was steadily evolving. In order to offer additional protection to the chronograph’s pushers and its crown, OMEGA designed a slightly altered watch case. Its right side was slightly enlarged, thus enhancing the protection. As it turned out, this “asymmetric” case would be identified the world over as one of Speedmaster’s trade-mark design-elements. It was introduced to select markets in 1964 with the model ST 105.012 that also featured the mention “Professional” on the dial, as it was indeed promi-nent part of OMEGA’s profes-sional line of watches. Powered by the same movement, the calibre 321, the model further evolved in 1967 to the ref-erence ST 145.012, with the addition of a slightly improved method of attaching the push-ers to the chronograph’s case. This model proved to be the last one to use the brand’s cal-ibre 321, the very movement that guaranteed perfect timing during all six lunar landings up to and including the very last mission to land on the moon: Apollo 17.

In 1968, one year before Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin set foot on the moon, OMEGA introduced yet another mile-stone in the Speedmaster’s evo-lution: a new movement. Bear-ing the reference ST 145.022, the new model was powered by the OMEGA calibre 861, the successor of the storied calibre 321. The new manual-wound movement featured several new design elements and reflected OMEGA’s advances in watch-making technology. Incorpo-rating some production-related improvements as well, the new movement and its succeeding versions continue to power the Speedmaster “Moonwatch” to this very day.

The “Speedmaster 125” was created in 1973 to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the founding of OMEGA in 1848. The anniversary was indicated by the polished “125” applied on the black dial. This model introduced a another develop-ment: it was powered by the calibre 1041, the world’s first automatic chronograph that was officially certified as a chronometer. Limited to 2000 pieces, it has since become a collectors’ favourite.

Bearing a name that derived from a secret NASA project in-volving a possible new version of a space shuttle vehicle, the “X-33” represented an impres-sive achievement for the brand. Designed and tested over a long period of time and span-ning several prototypes, the new “hybrid” chronograph was sub-mitted to a series of merciless tests to ensure that it would live up to its new role: the watch was worn by astronauts during the shuttle missions, inside the Rus-sian Space Station “Mir” and the International Space Station, where it continues to be worn. Developed using input from astronauts as well as profes-sional pilots, the “X-33” includ-ed an array of digital functions tailored for professional use during space missions. A world first, the launch of the “X-33” in 1998 was televised live from on board the Russian Mir station with the astronauts handling the watch while linked directly to mission control in Houston.

In 2013, OMEGA introduced the Speedmaster 57 OMEGA Co-Axial Chronograph, an in-novative new member of the Seamaster family that salutes its legendary ancestor but which was designed to experience new adventures of its very own. Among the subtle nods to the very first OMEGA Speedmaster from 1957 are the straight lugs extending from the watch case and the bracelets which recall that iconic chronograph.

The Speedmaster ‘57 models are powered by the OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301 – the first of OMEGA’s exclu-sive in-house Co-Axial calibres to incorporate a chronograph function. The column-wheel chronograph has 12-hour and 60-minute counter hands placed on the same sub-dial at 3 o’clock. This familiar arrange-ment of the hands, which recalls the hour and minute hands on the main dial, enables intuitive reading of the chronograph.

The outstanding reliability delivered by the combination of Co-Axial technology and the silicon balance spring is such that OMEGA delivers its Co-Axial watches equipped with silicon balance springs with a full four-year warranty.

The Apollo 8 astronauts were the first people to see the dark side of the moon with their own eyes. Strapped to each of their wrists was an OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch. In 2013, OMEGA created the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon”, a black ceramic ver-sion of the watch fitted with the Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301. It honours the pioneering spirit of nine Apollo missions that took their precious human cargo beyond the moon and back to earth.

This striking new chronograph has a black zirconium oxide ceramic dial, complemented by a matching ceramic 44.25 mm case with a brushed and polished ceramic case-body. It features 18K white gold applied indexes as well as two blackened sub-dials that distinguish the timepiece the “Moonwatch”. These two sub-dials are made possible by the innovative placement of the 12-hour and 60-minute counters on the same sub-dial at the 3 o’clock position, allowing a comfortable and intuitive chronograph reading.

The Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” timepiece is presented on a highly dura-ble coated nylon fabric strap complete with a black ceramic buckle. The timepiece is water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet).

The Speedmaster “Mark II”This model marked the first redesign of the classic Speed-master Moonwatch case, thus introducing a new or second generation of Speedmaster models into OMEGA’s cata-logue. Its birth year was 1969 and the name chosen was “Mark II” to signify that it was in fact the second generation of the manual-wound Speed-master. Offered in various dis-tinct iterations (stainless steel with black dial, stainless steel with grey and orange “rac-ing” and “yachting” dials, gold-plated with a gilt dial and a very rare version in 18K yel-low gold) and powered by the calibre 861, the Mark II’s bar-rel-shaped case, also referred to as the “Pilots’ Line” case, has its roots in a rather secret (at the time) project that OMEGA was working on: a further enhanced and strengthened version of the Speedmaster for prolonged EVA-use on the lunar surface. One iteration of this ambitious research project that spanned more than ten years and was code-named “Alaska” featured a strengthened and well-round-ed watch case with hooded lugs and protected crown and push-ers. When the research project shifted directions, some of the original ideas formed the basis of the “Pilots’ Line” cases and were introduced commercially in the form of the Speedmaster Mark II and the Flightmaster.

It all started rather incon-spicuously in 1957, the year OMEGA introduced its “Pro-fessional” line of watches that included the Seamaster 300, the Railmaster and the first Speedmaster. Conceived not for extra-terrestrial use but rath-er for an earthly desire – speed – the very first Speedmaster, the CK 2915, was intended for and marketed to car enthu-siasts, motorists and racing drivers. Its tachymetric bezel placed – for the first time ever – outside the dial and crystal and designed to form part of the exterior case design, was yet another world premiere in OMEGA’s long list of achieve-ments. Powered by the leg-endary manual-wound calibre 321, defined by the graceful lines of its symmetrical case design and proudly display-ing time with hands featuring a “Broad Arrow” hour-hand, the Speedmaster became an instant bestseller.

suffered catastrophic failures in the strenuous trials, NASA declared the OMEGA Speed-master as “officially certified” equipment for its manned space program. Following the successful trials, NASA pro-cured further examples of the ST 105.003 and officially equipped its astronauts with the Speedmaster. This model reached further fame when it was worn for the first time outside the space capsule: on the wrist of astronaut Edward White, this model became part of America’s first “spacewalk” (extra-vehicular activity, or EVA) on June 3rd 1965 during the Gemini 4 mission.

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Page 10: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

TIMEGEEKS.DK

NYHEDER

GIRARD-PERREGAUX TRAVELLER WW.TC

Page 11: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

GIRARD-PERREGAUX PRÆSENTERER ET TRAVELLER WW.TC AF RØDGULD. ET UR, DER ER SVÆRT AT HOLDE ØJNENE FRA – LIGEMEGET HVOR I VERDEN DU ER!

Lige siden urfirmaet blev grundlagt i 1791, har Girard-Perre-gaux tilbudt luksuriøse ure, der elskes af kosmopolitter fra hele jordkloden. Det gælder også for modellen Traveller WW.TC, der tilbyder at vise tiden i forskellige tidszoner. En funktion, der har været tilgængelig i ure siden 1830, hvor Jean-Francois Bautte tilbød lommeure, der kunne vise tiden i to forskellige tidszoner.

44 millimeter Traveller WW.TC, der blev introduceret forrige år under Basel World, tilbydes nu for første gang af rødguld. Ud-over at tilbyde verdenstid, så har Traveller ww.tc også krono-graf, der tikker med det automatiske værk kaliber GP03300.

Traveller WW.TC af rødguld tilbydes med lys opalin eller sort skive og med brun eller sort krokodilleskindsrem med folde-spænde af rødguld.

www.girard-perregaux.com

AUGUST 2014

GIRARD-PERREGAUX TRAVELLER WW.TC

Page 12: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

TIMEGEEKS.DK

HVERDAGS BILLEDER

OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 af guld og stål var med på tur en solrig fre-dag i juli. Her ligger det flotte ur ved forruden af en camoflagefarvet Aston Martin Cygnet (hvilket forklarer Starter-hattens mønster) og forfører bilens fører. Og ja, vi burde have vasket forruden, før vi tog dette billede.

Du kan se flere af mine billeder via Instagram @kristianhaagen

HVERDAGSBILLEDER

Page 13: TIMEGEEKS august 2014

AUGUST 2014

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PANERAI LUMINOR PAM562 AF TITANIUM

Under SIHH urmessen hyldede Panerai det velkendte design, Luminor Marina, der blev introduceret i 1993 – det år hvor Panerai for første gang introducerede armbåndsure til det civile marked.

I den nye kollektion finder man nu opda-terede modeller, der bevarer det klassiske 44-millimeter design, men som nu tilbyder

Panerais inhouseværk med otte dages ma-nuelt optrukne gangreserve, P.5000.

Der er tale om tre Base Luminor-modeller (uden sekunder). To af dem er lavet af stål med enten sort eller hvid skive, mens det tredje er lavet af titanium og har tobaksbrun skive (herover). Alle tre modeller har glas-bagkasse, så man kan se det manuelt op-trukne værk og remmen har et flot vintage-præg med C-spænde som standard.

www.panerai.com

NYHEDER

PANERAI UDVIDER KONSTANT SIN KOLLEKTION MED MODELLER, DER INDEHOLDER VÆRKER AF EGEN PRODUKTION.

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NY LIVSSTIL MED THOMAS RODE

FUNCTIONAL LIFESTYLE EVENTS

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FACTS OG FORTÆLLINGER FRA DEN TIKKENDE VERDEN 3DER ER STADIG RIG MULIGHED FOR AT KØBE MIN SENESTE BOG ”ARMBÅNDSURE - FACTS OG FORTÆLLINGER FRA DEN TIK-KENDE VERDEN 3”.

Hvis du har en (sund) interesse for ure, så bør du eje min seneste bog, der tilbyder kapitler om mine favorit urmærker, Casio G-Shock og Rolex Daytona, interessante auktionsresultater og endda et kapitel om dame-ure. Desuden kan du læse om Danmarks James Bond og hvorfor jeg

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AUGUST 2014

FACTS OG FORTÆLLINGER FRA DEN TIKKENDE VERDEN 3DER ER STADIG RIG MULIGHED FOR AT KØBE MIN SENESTE BOG ”ARMBÅNDSURE - FACTS OG FORTÆLLINGER FRA DEN TIK-KENDE VERDEN 3”.

Hvis du har en (sund) interesse for ure, så bør du eje min seneste bog, der tilbyder kapitler om mine favorit urmærker, Casio G-Shock og Rolex Daytona, interessante auktionsresultater og endda et kapitel om dame-ure. Desuden kan du læse om Danmarks James Bond og hvorfor jeg

sammenligner visse ure med Kylie Minogue. Der er naturligvis også et stort kapitel om de ure, der blev præsenteret under årets to store messer, SIHH og Basel World.

”Armbåndsure - facts og fortællinger fra den tikkende verden 3” er på 304 sider og koster 499 kroner plus forsendelse. Køb bogen hos din lokale boghandler.

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NYHEDER

ARNOLD & SON LANCERER DERES NYE TES TOURBILLON OG DER ER TRADITIONEN TRO IKKE SPARET PÅ HVERKEN SPEKTAKULÆRT DESIGN ELLER URMAGERI I HØJE-STE POTENS.

Det engelske urfirma Arnold & Son har vind i de horologiske sejl i disse år og lancerer det ene spektakulære ur efter det andet. Nu gælder det så TES Tourbillon af rødguld med fjederhus-bro af safir.

Denne 44 millimeter nyhed har valgt at lavet broen over fjederguset af safir så man får et bedre kig ind til det smukke mekaniske værk og det fascinerende antracitgrå guilloché møn-ster på den værkplade, der holder det hele på plads, så at sige.

Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon er limiteret til 28 styk.

www.arnoldandson.com

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AUGUST 2014

ARNOLD & SON LANCERER DERES NYE TES TOURBILLON OG DER ER TRADITIONEN TRO IKKE SPARET PÅ HVERKEN SPEKTAKULÆRT DESIGN ELLER URMAGERI I HØJE-STE POTENS.

Det engelske urfirma Arnold & Son har vind i de horologiske sejl i disse år og lancerer det ene spektakulære ur efter det andet. Nu gælder det så TES Tourbillon af rødguld med fjederhus-bro af safir.

Denne 44 millimeter nyhed har valgt at lavet broen over fjederguset af safir så man får et bedre kig ind til det smukke mekaniske værk og det fascinerende antracitgrå guilloché møn-ster på den værkplade, der holder det hele på plads, så at sige.

Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon er limiteret til 28 styk.

www.arnoldandson.com

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ENGINEERED FOR MEN WITH NO NEED TO

CLIMB THE EVOLUTIONARY LADDER.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin”.

Ref. 3795: Men who set the bar – as Charles Darwin once did – deserve a timepiece others

aspire: a watch like this IWC featuring an in-house 89365 movement. With rubber-coated push-

buttons, the IWC SafeDive system and water-resistance to 30 bar, this special edition alone

would have effortlessly proven its namesake’s theory of evolution. Just like the nautical instru-

ments on Darwin’s legendary research vessel, HMS Beagle, the watchcase is the first from IWC

to be made of bronze. With use and time, it acquires a patina that ensures the watch and its

wearer their place at the top of the food chain. IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: AMSTERDAM | PARIS | VIENNA | ROME | NEW YORK | BEIJING | DUBAI | HONG KONG | GENEVA | ZURICH

IWC.COM

For more information please call +31 207 110 868 or email [email protected]

2007152_AC4A_420x298_d_crp_ZS_4c_en.indd Alle Seiten 11.06.14 17:11

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ENGINEERED FOR MEN WITH NO NEED TO

CLIMB THE EVOLUTIONARY LADDER.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin”.

Ref. 3795: Men who set the bar – as Charles Darwin once did – deserve a timepiece others

aspire: a watch like this IWC featuring an in-house 89365 movement. With rubber-coated push-

buttons, the IWC SafeDive system and water-resistance to 30 bar, this special edition alone

would have effortlessly proven its namesake’s theory of evolution. Just like the nautical instru-

ments on Darwin’s legendary research vessel, HMS Beagle, the watchcase is the first from IWC

to be made of bronze. With use and time, it acquires a patina that ensures the watch and its

wearer their place at the top of the food chain. IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: AMSTERDAM | PARIS | VIENNA | ROME | NEW YORK | BEIJING | DUBAI | HONG KONG | GENEVA | ZURICH

IWC.COM

For more information please call +31 207 110 868 or email [email protected]

2007152_AC4A_420x298_d_crp_ZS_4c_en.indd Alle Seiten 11.06.14 17:11

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NYHEDER

PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS 5990

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UNDER BASEL WORLD URMESSEN I FORÅRET PATEK PHILIPPE PRÆSENTEREDE ET NAUTILUS, DER ER PROPPET MED FUNKTIONER, SOM VAR DER TALE OM EN HOROLOGISK SWISS ARMY KNIFE!

Den sporty side af Patek Philippe, Nautilus, blev lanceret i 1976 og har lige siden begejstret med sit maritime design. Si-den 2006, hvor Nautilus blev voksen og fyldte 30 år, har kol-lektionen udviklet sig markant.

I år gælder det et Nautilus, der både blander kronograffunktio-nen fra ref. 5980 (der nu udgår i alle stålversioner) samt Aqua-naut TravelTime ref. 5164, der blev lanceret i 2011.

Derved tilbyder Nautilus ref. 5990 både stopur, dato samt mu-lighed for at se tiden i to tidszoner.

Ref. 5990 (der forventes hos forhandlerne i 2015) tilbydes kun af stål med sort skive og med automatisk inhouseværk, kaliber CH 28-520 C FUS, der kan nydes gennem glasbagkassen. Diameter er 40.5 millimeter.

www.patekphilippe.com

AUGUST 2014

PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS 5990

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NYHEDER

GIULIANO MAZZUOLI INTRODUCERER URKASSER LAVET AF ITALIENSK MARMOR.

Den italienske urdesigner Giuliano Mazzuoli har lanceret en serie ure lavet af italiensk marmor. Den blok af marmor, som han har produceret urkasserne fra, stammer fra Apuan bjer-gene i den del, der hedder Carrara, cirka 100 kilometer fra Firenze. Det er også dette navn, som Mazzuoli, der er født og opvokset i Firenze, har opkaldt denne nye serie ure efter.

Carrara har en diameter på 44.5 millimeter og tilbydes både med kronograf og som three-hander. Kronografversio-nen bruger Le Joux-Perret værk og time-only bruger ETA 2824/2, begge med automatisk optræk.

Begge versioner tilbydes med sort, hvid eller blå skive af keramik. Kalveskindsremmen er håndlavet i Firenze.

www.giulianomazzuoli.com

STENHÅRDE NYHEDER FRAGIULIANO MAZZUOLI

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NYHEDER

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AUGUST 2014

JAEGER-LECOULTRE DOUMÉTRE UNIQUE TRAVEL TIME er i sandhed et unikt ur. Ikke kun på grund af det meget vellykkede design af både kasse og skive. Men også på grund af de funktioner, som det manuelt optrukne inhouseværk, kaliber 383, tilbyder.

Denne model er det første mekaniske ur i verden, der via et enkelt værk giver mulighed for ”på-minuttet” præcist at stille tiden i to for-skellige tidszoner. Det vil sige, at eksempelvis minutviserne ikke er synkroniserede, hvilket et konventionelt ur med sekundær tidsvis-ning ellers tilbyder.

Verdens forskellige tidszoner tilbyder ikke kun varianter med en hel time, men der imod både med halve timer og femten minutters for-skel. Det har Jaeger-LeCoultre løst ved at angive hele timer (i den sekundære tidszone) via det digitale vindue på venstre side af urski-ven. Minutterne er angivet som ”regulateur”.

Doumétre Unique travel Time tilbyder en diameter på 42 millimeter på trods af inhouseværket, der indeholder hele 498 separate værk-dele. Blandt andet to fjederhuse med hver 50 timers gangreserve.

jaegerlecoultre.com

JAEGER-LECOULTREDOUMÈTRE UNIQUE TRAVEL TIME

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HVERDAGSBILLEDER

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HVERDAGS BILLEDER

CARTIER SANTOS DUMONT af rødguld med manuelt værk. Et sinds-sygt flot ur, der sidder slankt om armen og oser af sublim elegance og horologisk luksus. Uret er opkaldt efter den brasilianske pilot, der fløj rundt over Paris i sine hjemmelavede luftballoner og dermed lagde navn til ét af verdens allerførste piloture.

Du kan se flere af mine billeder via Instagram @kristianhaagen

AUGUST 2014

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HVERDAGS BILLEDER

INGENIEUR SL var Gerald Gentas version af det antimagnetiske ur fra IWC. Denne version blev lanceret i 1976 og det nyværende Ingenieur er tydeligvis inspireret af Gentas linjer. Dette ur kommer på auktion i Bred-gade hos Bruun Rasmussen i september.

Du kan se flere af mine billeder via Instagram @kristianhaagen

HVERDAGSBILLEDER

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AUGUST 2014

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SOMMERHUSET GEMMER PÅ UTALLIGE EFFEKTER, DER KLÆ-DER MANGT ET HOROLOGISK SET-UP.

Forår og sommer byder ikke bare på bedre vejr og længere dage. Dis-se årstider byder også flere dage i sommerhuset, hvor mine ure altid er med på tur. Ikke så meget for at blive båret, men primært for at ”stå model”. Der skydes mange billeder idet veludrustede værksted, idet det er fuld af ting og sager, som kun findes i et sommerhus og som får lov til at stå fremme i så mange år, at patina dannes i fred og ro

Her er det mit Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980 af stål med blå skive, der udgår af produktionen. Ikke om jeg forstår, hvorfor fødselaren (Patek fylder 175 i år) har valgt at udfase samtlige stålversioner af denne model.

Se flere af mine hverdagsbilleder via Instagram @kristianhaagen

BILLEDER FRAVÆRKSTEDET

With age comes beauty.

Gothersgade 31 · DK-1123 Copenhagen K. · www.franzj.com

Franz J Golf AD_120x170_01.indd 1 04/04/14 10.19

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With age comes beauty.

Gothersgade 31 · DK-1123 Copenhagen K. · www.franzj.com

Franz J Golf AD_120x170_01.indd 1 04/04/14 10.19

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HVERDAGS BILLEDER

ET PAR HURTIGE BILER, nye armbånd fra Oskar Gydell, sol fra oven og et trofast Nikon kamera. Sådan kan man også bruge en fredag, hvis man skal have billeder i kassen til brug i diverse medier. Her er det ur-tossen selv, der er steget ombord i en hurtig – dog stillestående – bil og flasher Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed af guld og diverse armbånd.

Du kan se flere af mine billeder fra hverdagen via Instagram @kristian-

HVERDAGSBILLEDER

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GEARETC.

SAMSONITE

Bliver din kuffert smadret rundt af hårdhændet bagagepersonale? Det er jo noget skidt. Med mindre selvfølgelig, at du har brugt penge på at købe dig en SAMSONITE LITE-LOCKED, der med sin skjoldlignende konstruktion praktisk taget ikke kan mishandles, så det går ud over ind-holdet. Den viste version af Lite-Locked er 75 cm høj og koster 3.799 kroner. www.samsonite.dk

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AUGUST 2014

HÄSTENS

Den svenske producent af senge i luksusklassen HÄSTENS har lanceret en limiteret serie, Stockholm White. Som navnet på sengen indikerer, så er sengen inspireret af den svenske hovedstad. ”Stockholmsvit” er en nu-ance, som belv en anerkendt nuance, da begrebet ”Skandinavisk Design” blev etableret i 1950’erne. 180x200 tilbydes til Euro 7.490, hvilket ikke inkluderer topmadras. www.loebeshop.dk

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GEARETC.

ALEXANDERMcQUEEN

For nyligt var der udsalg hos onlinebutikken Mr. Porter og i den forbin-delse købte jeg dette par triple monk brogue støvler fra ALEXANDER McQUEEN. Det brune læder er smørblødt og støvlerne er derfor ufatte-ligt behagelige at bære. Og så er de jo sindssygt flotte til både formel og afslappet brug. www.mrporter.com

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AUGUST 2014

OSKARGYDELL

Min svenske ven, Oskar Gydell, har i flere år produceret spektakulære armbånd, som ikke mindst mine egne håndled er prydet med. Nu stopper han helt brugen af belægninger og koncentrerer sig i stedet om ædelme-taller (guld, platin og sølv) samt ædelsten (hvide og sorte diamanter). Her ses et firkantet bangle af 18 kt. rødguld med sorte diamanter og et ”bone” bangle, ligeledes af 18 kt. rødguld. www.oskargydell.com

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GEARETC.

RAG & BONEDen altid velassorterede hjemmeside Mr. Porter tilbyder denne RAG & BONE Holme Quilted Herringbone jakke, som helt klart bør præsenteres bagfra, idet ærmerne er forstærket af kontrastrige albuelapper med friske striber. Jakken koster Euro 460, men du kan være heldig at finde den på udsalg via mrporter.com

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AUGUST 2014

BITCHES IMMA HOLLA

AT

Vær den største player rundt om bordet, når det tages noter med denne BITCHES IMMA HOLLA AT. Denne lille notesbog er en kæk hilsen til den lille sorte bog, som visse havde før mobiltelefonen og Tinder/Grinder gjorde sit indtog. Den Lille Sorte Bog var livslinien til et sexliv i notesbog-format, man havde gemt godt og kun kom frem, når/hvis man blev single. Prisen er $16 via incrediblethings.com

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GEARETC.

WORDSBRAND

WORDS BRAND (via Fancy.com) står bag denne T-shirt, som må beteg-nes som ”essential gear” til enhver blogger, der permanent har hovedet bukket mod sin håndholdte tablet/Smart Phone. Og der er jo noget om snakken: de personer, der lever et onlineliv er ofte et skuffende møde IRL og spiser ligeså meget leverpostej som os andre på trods af, at deres blog viser dyr champagne og foie gras. T-shirten koster $26. Husk moms!Du kan bestille den via www.fancy.com/brands-stores/words-brand

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AUGUST 2014

RAY-BAN

RAY-BAN har lanceret en fræk version af deres klassiske Wayfarer. Du kender formen, men du har sikkert ikke set Wayfarer beklædt med brun eller sort kernelæder før. Sådan en version tilbydes fra eksempelvis Profil Optik til 2.600 kroner inklusive polariserede linser. Der forventes i øvrigt flere læderfarver i løbet af 2014. www.profiloptik.dk

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TIMEGEEKS.DKFACEBOOK.COM/TIMEGEEKS

ISSUU.COM/KRISTIANHAAGEN/DOCSINSTAGRAM @KRISTIANHAAGEN

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ISSUU.COM/KRISTIANHAAGEN/DOCSINSTAGRAM @KRISTIANHAAGEN