time pieces - watch chains & accessories

8/20/2019 Time Pieces - Watch Chains & Accessories

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18th Century Material Culture

Watch Chains & Accessories


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During the 18th Century, watches were owned and worn by both men and women, fromthe wealthy to the not so wealthy. They were carried on the body by simple ribbons,tapes, cords, or chains.

When a woman wore a watch, she frequently did so with an ornamental chainsuspended to the waist by a hook. Often adorned with a variety of items such as watchkeys, wax seals, pomanders, and other decorations to their fancy, these articles werecommonly referred to as “Equipage” chains. While many refer to these chains as “Chatelains”, this nomenclature is actually incorrect for the 18th century as the term doesnot appear in any period references, including English dictionaries, until the mid 19thcentury.

Men traditionally carried their watches by a ribbon, cord, or chain in a small pocketsewn into the waistband of their breeches. This pocket was known as a “Fob”. It wasnot until the 19th century that men began to fashionably wear their watches in thepocket of a waistcoat or vest. It was at this time, that the definition of a “Fob” alsochanged. From that time forward, articles suspended by a watch chain, such as a seal.

replaced the definition of the defunct breeches pocket.


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American or European Cotton Breeches

c. 1770(Metropolitan Museum of Art)

The “FOB”



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Often considered a symbol of status and social bearing, the wearing of a watch,particularly when being seen in public, was considered highly stylish during the 18thcentury. This eventually lead to the fashion of wearing two watches, or at least theperception of wearing two watches. In many cases, expensive watches were substituted

with cheaper alternatives. Non - working false watches known as “Fausse Montres”became quite acceptable to wear at this time, as did other objects which gave the illusionof being a watch, such as snu! boxes and miniature portraits in frames that resembled watch cases.


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Men Wearing Watches


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“A Rake’s Progress” - “A Room at the Rose Tavern”

by William Hogarth 1735(Lewis Walpole Library)


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“A Rake’s Progress” - “A Room at the Rose Tavern”



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William Wollaston

by Thomas Gainsborough c. 1759(Colchester & Ipswich Museums Service)


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Charles Tudway, MP

by Thomas Gainsborough 1765(The Courtauld Gallery)


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Sir Benjamin Truman

by Thomas Gainsborough c. 1770 - 1774(Tate Galleries)


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“AGE and FOLLY, or the BEAUTIES.”

Published by Sayer & Bennett 1776(The British Museum)


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“AGE and FOLLY, or the BEAUTIES.”

Published by Sayer & Bennett 1776(The British Museum)


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"Jeune elegant en habit moucheté..."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Etienne Claude Voysard, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1780(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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"Cet homme est vétû d un habit d’hiver de Ratine..."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Nicolas Dupin, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1780(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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"Les Délassemens du Bois de Boulogne. Robe de ta ! etas..."



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King George III

by Thomas Gainsborough c. 1780 - 1781(The Royal Collection)


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Sir Harbord Harbord, Bt, MP for Norwich

by Thomas Gainsborough c. 1783(Norwich Civic Portrait Collection)


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Joshua Walker of Clifton

by John Russell c. 1784(Clifton Park Museum)


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“OLD WHEAT SHEAF in the trap of VENUS and BACCHUS.”

by Robert Sayer 1786(Lewis Walpole Library)


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“OLD WHEAT SHEAF in the trap of VENUS and BACCHUS.”

by Robert Sayer 1786(Lewis Walpole Library)


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A Group Portrait Identified as John Johnson, Mr. Croft and William Bentham

by Francis Wheatley(Christie’s)


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Women Wearing Watches


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“A Harlot’s Progress” - Plate 1

by William Hogarth 1732(Private Collection)


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Miss Mary Edwards



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Miss Mary Edwards



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Marie-Jeanne Buzeau - A Lady on Her Daybed

by François Boucher 1743(The Frick Collection)

http://collections.frick.org/view/people/asitem/items@:52?t:state:flow=7ba34fe7-2f0e-4536-977b-825e70c67006


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Marie-Jeanne Buzeau - A Lady on Her Daybed

by François Boucher 1743(The Frick Collection)

http://collections.frick.org/view/people/asitem/items@:52?t:state:flow=7ba34fe7-2f0e-4536-977b-825e70c67006


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“MAY”

by Thomas Burford 1745(Private Collection)


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Madame de Saint-Amarante

by Louis Carrogis Carmontelle c. 1770(Chantilly, Musée Condé)


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“A Scene at St. Ja__s’s or the Courtiers attempting to bridle the Tongue of the late worthy Lord Mayor.”

London 1770(Lewis Walpole Library)


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“A Scene at St. Ja__s’s or the Courtiers attempting to bridle the Tongue of the late worthy Lord Mayor.”

London 1770(Lewis Walpole Library)


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“The FEMALE BRUISERS”

by John Goldar, Published by Henry Parker 1770(Lewis Walpole Library)


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“The FEMALE BRUISERS”

by John Goldar, Published by Henry Parker 1770(Lewis Walpole Library)


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"Petite Maitresse en Robe à la Polonaise de toile..."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Nicholas Dupin, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1778(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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"Elégante en petite robe de Ta ! etas de Indes rayé..."



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"Elégante en petite robe de Ta ! etas de Indes rayé..."



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"Petite Maitresse en Robe Lilas garnie..."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Nicholas Dupin, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1778(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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"Robe à l'Anglaise de Pekin verd pomme ... "



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"Cette Robe à la Circassienne d'un nouveau gout..."



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"Robe à la Polonoise d'éto! e unie à coqueluchon."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Pierre Adrien Le Beau, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1778(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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"Habillement d'Athalie au théatre..."



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"Polonaise de toile bleue et blanche vermicelée..."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by C. LeRoy, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1779(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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"Robe à la Turque..."



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"Jolie Danseuse venue..."



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"Jolie Danseuse venue..."



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"Robe à l'Anglaise..."

by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Pierre - Charles Baquoy, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1784(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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Two Ladiesby French School c. 1780

(The Bowes Museum)


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WatchRibbons


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Vanitas - Still Lifeby Pieter Claesz (Dutch) c. 1625

(Frans Hals Museum)


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Vanitas with Violin & Glass Ballby Pieter Claesz (Dutch) c. 1628

(Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nuremberg)


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Vanitas Still Life with the Spinarioby Pieter Claesz (Dutch) c. 1628

(Rijksmuseum)


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Vanitas Still Life with the Spinarioby Pieter Claesz (Dutch) c. 1628

(Rijksmuseum)


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The Van Moerkerken Familyby Gerard ter Borch the Younger (Dutch) c. 1653 - 1654

(Metropolitan Museum of Art)


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The Van Moerkerken Familyby Gerard ter Borch the Younger (Dutch) c. 1653 - 1654



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The Dissolute Householdby Jan Steen (Dutch) c. 1663 - 1664



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The Dissolute Householdby Jan Steen (Dutch) c. 1663 - 1664



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“T. MORELL, S.T.P. - S.S.A.”

by James Basire, London 1762(Lewis Walpole Library)


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“T. MORELL, S.T.P. - S.S.A.”

by James Basire, London 1762(Lewis Walpole Library)


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English Trade Card for William Smith, “Jeweller and Working Goldsmith”18th Century

(Lewis Walpole Library)


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English Trade Card for William Smith, “Jeweller and Working Goldsmith”18th Century



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English Trade Card for William Sterck, “Watch and Clock - Maker”18th Century



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English Trade Card for William Sterck, “Watch and Clock - Maker”18th Century



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WatchCords


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Vanitas with Violin & Glass Ballby Pieter Claesz (Dutch) c. 1630

(Getty Images)


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French Silk & Metal Watch Cord with Key & Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Metal Watch Cord with Key & Tassel Decorations18th Century



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Tape Watch Chains


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English Equipage Watch Chain of Metal & Silk Tape with Key & Tassel DecorationsLate 18th Century



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English Equipage Watch Chair of Hair Tape with Key & Tassel DecorationsLate 18th Century



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English Equipage Watch Chain of Silk Tape with Key & DecorationsLate 18th Century



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French Design for an Equipage Watch Chain of Tapec. 1760

(Victoria & Albert)


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(Victoria & Albert)


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(Victoria & Albert)


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French Equipage Watch Chain of Silk & Metal Tape with Key & Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Silk Tape with Key and Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Silk & Metal Tape with Key and Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Linen Tape Decorated with Metal with Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Silk Tape with Seal and Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Silk Tape Decorated with Glass with Key and Tassel DecorationsLate 18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Linen & Metal Tape with Key and Tassel Decorations18th Century



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French Equipage Watch Chain of Linen & Metal Tape Decorated with Glass with Key and Tassel DecorationsLate 18th Century



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English Watch Chains


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English Trade Card18th Century

(The British Museum)


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English Gilt Brass & Silver Watch with Chainby Edmund Day of London c. 1695

(Victoria & Albert)


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English Silver Watch with Cut Steel Equipage Watch Chain, Crank Key, & Sealby Charles Bayley of London c. 1720

(Bonhams)


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English Silver Pocket Watch with Scottish Gilted Blue Steel Equipage Watch Chain “Prefented to Capt. Horatio Nelfson. R.N. on his Marriage by the crew of H.M.S. BOREAS March 11th 1787”

by “Jas. Smith / Edinburgh” Hallmarked for 1787

(National Maritime Museum, Greenwich)


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Cut Steel Equipage Watch Chain with Key & Seal18th - Early 19th Century

(Niels Hobbs Collection)


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(The Discerning Collector - Genevieve Cummins)


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English

Hooked

Watch Chains


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English Trade Cardc. 1750



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Trade Card of Jonathan Ager, Watch and Clock - MakerLate 18th Century



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Design for Enameled Watchcaseby George Michael Moser (Swiss, Active in London) c. 1766



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English Gold , Precious Stones, & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & Sealby James Debau! re c. 1725 - 1750

(Tyler Museum of Art)


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English Gilt Pair Cased Watch with Verge Movement with Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby G. Weldon of London 1728

(Cogs & Pieces, Antique Pocket Watches)


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English Gold & Gilt Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Bloodstone Egg Pomander, & Crystal Sealby Nathaniel Hunt c. 1742 - 1743

(Victoria & Albert)


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English Silver Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby Depros of London c. 1750



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English Gold Hooked Equipage Watch Chain with Crystal Sealby Nathaniel Hunt c. 1760 - 1770

(Victoria & Albert)


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English Gold Hooked Equipage Watch Chain with Crystal Sealby Nathaniel Hunt c. 1760 - 1770

(Victoria & Albert)


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English Gold Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain & Etuis Watch by Robert Cawley of Chester c. 1755 - 1756, Etuis c. 1730

(Museum of Fine Arts, Boston)


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English Gold Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key & Sealsby Henry Fish of London c. 1740

(Colonial Williamsburg Foundation)


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English Gold Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby John Rich of London c. 1740



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English Gold & Gilt Metal Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby William Hunt c. 1740 - 1760

(Victoria & Albert)


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English Gold & Polychrome Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby Henry Hindley of London c. 1750

(Sotheby’s)


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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & German Pendantby John Pyke of London c. 1750



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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & German Pendantby John Pyke of London c. 1750



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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain with Chainsby John Pyke of London c. 1750



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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain with Chainsby John Pyke of London c. 1750



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English Gilt Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, Charms, & Pomanderc. 1761

(New York Historical Society)


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English Gold Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Seals, & PomandersLondon c. 1767 - 1768

(Private Collection)


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English Gilt Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & Pomanderby “Thomas Hayton/watch maker at Ye/ Golden Eagle in Lee Street/in Red Lyon Square/London” c. 1770



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English Steel & Enamel Equipage Watch Chainc. 1770 - 1785

(Museum of London)


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English Steel with Gold Decoration Hooked Equipage Watch Chainc. 1770

(Victoria & Albert)


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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain & Keyby Perigal of London c. 1770

(Sotheby’s)


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English Gold & Enamel Watch Featuring King George III & Queen Charlotte with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain & KeyPurchased by the Eminent Physician, Sir James Napier, in 1779 c. 1777



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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chainc. 1779 - 1780



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English Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain & Keyby Daniel de St. Leu of London, Watchmaker to King George III c. 1775

(Walters Art Museum)


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English Gold Repousse Pair Cased Watch with Verge Movement with Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby Nathaniel Eagle of London c. 1780



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English Gold & Cameo Watch with Cut Steel & Gilt Hooked Equipage Watch ChainCameo Depicting Minerva - Roman Goddess of Wisdom - by the Wedgewood Factory c. 1790



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English Cut Steel Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby Mathew Bolton c. 1790

(Victoria & Albert)


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American

Hooked Watch Chains


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American Silver Watch Chainby Joseph Richardson, Sr. 1748

(Philadelphia Museum of Art)


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American Silver Equipage Chain Hookby Joseph and Nathaniel Richardson 1780



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American Silver Equipage Chain Hookby Joseph and Nathaniel Richardson 1780



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French Watch Chains


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French Design for a Watch Chainc. 1760

(Victoria & Albert)


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(Victoria & Albert)


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(Victoria & Albert)


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(Victoria & Albert)


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French Silver Cased Watch with a Cut Steel Chain, Key, & Sealsby Estienne Hubert of Rouen, France c, 1650

(National Maritime Museum)


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Oval Silver Watch with Chainc. 1610 - 1620



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French Trade Card for “BAUDOT”Paris c. 1800(Waddeson)


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Watch Chains, Seals, & KeysNeed information on this - Anyone have it????


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French

Hooked Watch Chains


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French Gold Watch with Equipage Watch Chain Set with Topazes& Diamonds, Seal & Keyby Julien Le Roy of Paris c. 1760

(Victoria & Albert)


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French Enamel Verge Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & Sealsby Julien Le Roy of Paris c. 1760

(Koller Auctions)


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French Gold Gilt & Enamel with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain & CharmsParis c. 1767

(Louvre)


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French Gold Gilt & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch ChainMarked “AGERON No. 32” from Paris c. 1770

(DROUT.COM)


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French Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & Sealby Jean-Antoine Lepine (1720-1814) Watchmaker; Hologer to the King c. 1774 - 1775

(Rococo Revisited)


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French Gold & Jasper, & Agate Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & SealParis c. 1778 - 1779

(Louvre)


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French Gilt & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain & CharmsParis c. 1767 - 1800

(Louvre)


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French Gold & Diamond Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & ChainParis c. 1767 - 1800

(Louvre)


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French Gold Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & Seal18th Century

(Rococo Revisited)


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French Gold Hooked Equipage Watch Chain18th Century

(Versilles)


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French Gold & Enamel Hooked Equipage Watch Chain18th Century

(Versilles)


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French Gold Hooked Equipage Watch Chain with Key & Sealby Jeantet-Violet 18th Century

(Versilles)


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French Design for a Hooked Watch Chainby Jean Durcollay c. 1755

(Victoria & Albert)


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(Victoria & Albert)


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German Watch Chains


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German White Metal Watch Chain with Charms & SealLate 18th Century



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German / Austrian

Hooked Watch Chains


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Austrian Gold & Enamel Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chainby Philipp Ernst Schindler III of Vienna c. 1760

(Victoria & Albert)


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German Gold, Agate, & Precious Stones Watch with Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, & Sealby V. Blanck of Regensburg c. 1775



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Landwing Augsburg Silver Repousse Cased Verge Watch with Silver Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, Seal, Pencil, & Filec. 1780

(Heritage Auctions)


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Landwing Augsburg Silver Repousse Cased Verge Watch with Silver Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key, Seal, Pencil, & Filec. 1780

(Heritage Auctions)


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“European”

Hooked Watch Chains


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European Brass Hooked Watch ChainLate 18th Century



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European Brass Hooked Equipage Watch ChainLate 18th Century



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False Watches “Fausse Montre”


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English Gilt False Watch or “Fausse Montre” with a Hooked Equipage Watch Chain, Key & Sealc. 1770 - 1785

(Museum of London)


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Pewter False Watches or “Fausse Montres”Recovered from the Roosevelt Inlet Shipwreck, Delaware c. 1770s

(The Roosevelt Inlet Shipwreck: Identification, Analysis and Historical Context” by Bridget Christine McVae, St. Mary’s College)


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English Portrait Miniature of Major - General William Phillips of the Royal Artillery in a “Fausse Montres” Frameby Richard Crosse c. 1760

(Philip Mould)


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English Portrait Miniature of Mrs. Townley Ward in a Silver & Paste “Fausse Montres” Frameby John Smart 1782

(Christie’s)


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English Portrait Miniature of a Lady in a Gilt & Half Pearl “Fausse Montres” Frameby George Engleheart 1780s

(Philip Mould)


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"Les Délassemens du Bois de Boulogne. Robe de ta ! etas..."by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Nicolas Dupin, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1778

(Museum of London)


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"Fraque à coqueluchon de pluche de soie rouge..."by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Charles Emmanuel Jean Baptiste, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1778



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"Redingotte à colet et à bavaroise un peu ajustée pour monter à cheval..."by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Charles Emmanuel Jean Baptiste, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1779



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"Petit Maitre en chenille Fraque de couleur à la mode Veste...."by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Nicolas Dupin, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1781



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"Petit Maitre en chenille Fraque de couleur à la mode Veste...."by Pierre - Thomas LeClerc, Engraved by Nicolas Dupin, Published by Esnauts et Rapilly 1781



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WatchSeals


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English Gold & Glass Watch Seal Marked with the Order of the Bath & Arms of Je! rey Amherst, Commander of North America18th Century

(Colonial Williamsburg Foundation)


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Gold & Glass Watch Seal Owned by George Washington18th Century(Winterthur)


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English Gold & Agate Watch Sealc. 1770

(Peter Cameron Antique Silver)


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English Silver Hunting Watch Seal with Stagc. 1730



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English Silver Hunting Watch Seal with Dog & Harec. 1730



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English Silver Watch SealMaker’s Mark “BB” c. 1750



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English Silver Watch Sealc. 1775

(McCord Museum)


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English Silver Watch Sealc. 1775



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English Silver Watch Seal Marked “CUSTOMS / JUSTICE”by Hester Bateman of London c. 1775



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English Silver Watch Seals18th Century(Christie’s)


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Watch Seal with 3 Masted Naval VesselLate 18th Century

(Ruby Lane)


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English Silver Hunting Seal with Dog & Harec. 1730



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Advertisement for Black Cypher Seals (Basalt Seals) - Aris’s Birmingham GazetteMonday, June 17, 1776 Vol. XXXV, No. 1804

(Phil Dunning)


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Brass Watch Seal18th Century

(ebay)


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Steel “MEMENTO MORI” Watch Sealc. 1759



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WatchKeys


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“Crank - Wind” Watch Key18th Century



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Gold, Glass, & Hair Watch Key Belonging to Thomas Je! ersonDedicated to His Wife & Containing a Lock of Her Hair: “Martha W. Je! erson Born 19 Oct. 1748, Died 6 Sept. 1782”

c. 1786(Christie’s)


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Watch

Labels


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Aaron Willard Clock Labelby Paul Revere Boston

(American Antiquarian Society)

Acknowledgements


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Many thanks are extended to our friends, Paul

Dickfoss, Niels Hobbs, Neal Hurst, Ward Oles, andEric Schnitzer, for taking the time (no pun intended)to contribute some of the wonderful material whichgraces the pages of this slideshow.

Thank you Gentlemen!

- The 18th Century Material Culture Resource Center

Acknowledgements


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The material contained within these slideshows is presented for educational purposes only. The18th Century Material Culture Resource Center does not personally own any of the itemsdepicted herein and is indebted to the countless museums, libraries, and private collectors who willingly share their collections with the public through the internet. Every attempt has been

made to credit these organizations and individuals for their contributions as best as possible.

If there is a question you have regarding a particular item featured within a presentation, pleasecontact the 18th Century Material Culture Resource Center and we will try to answer yourinquiry as best as possible. If for any reason you feel there is any item that should not bepresented here, or if there is an error in any listing, or if you know the source for any item whose

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time pieces - watch chains & accessories

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