the.family.handyman november.2010 nogrp

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®

Get knives

SHAVINGSHARP!

Build a cabinet to organize a

shop full of tools

Secretweapons

prosof the

10 things to love about TRACK SAWS

Mechanicspick theirfavoriteauto tools

Tool We Love: Cordless recip saws

Tool We Love: Super-light

circular saws

Tool We Love: Compactlithium drills

Teach your BISCUIT JOINER new tricks!

“Call me Mr. Jiggle Saw” and other tales of tool passion

THE FAMILY

Get knives

SHAVINGSHARP!

#1 in DIY Home Improvement

familyhandyman.com A READER’S DIGEST PUBLICATION

November 2010

TheTotally Tools IssueTheTotally Tools Issue

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©In

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IKEA S

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Made by the GarciasDesigned by IKEA®

There’s little in this world the Garcias deem more important than good friends and excellent food. Their new kitchen is perfect for them with built-to-last cabinets, deep drawers that organize theirparty supplies and lots of counter space for prep work and just hanging out. Next up…a housefull of happy people to complete the dream. Create your dream at IKEA-USA.com/kitchen

AKURUM kitchen with ÄDEL/RUBRIK doors and drawer fronts $5989 as shown Last year’s price $6529 as shown Medium brown stained and clear lacquered solid birch/birch veneer ÄDEL doors/drawer fronts. Stainless steel foil ⇒nish RUBRIK drawer fronts. Requires assembly and installation. *The total price includes cabinets, fronts, interior shelving, drawer and door dampers, hinges, toekicks, legs, visible moldings and panels. Countertops, sinks, faucets, handles and knobs, appliances and lighting are sold separately. See IKEA store or IKEA-USA.com for limited warranty details. Valid in US stores. See IKEA store for country of origin information and 10'×10' kitchen layout details.

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GMC.COM/SIERRA

We didn’t simply engineer the most powerful Sierra HD ever. We engineered the first Denali HD ever. It offers plenty of

capability, with up to 2,908 lbs of payload* and up to 17,200 lbs of fifth-wheel trailering.** And it comes with the chrome

grille and uplevel interior you expect in a Denali. The new Sierra Denali HD from GMC. WE ARE PROFESSIONAL GRADE.

With available Duramax Diesel engine on 2WD 2500 Denali HD. *Maximum payload capacity includes weight of driver, passengers, optional equipment and cargo. **Maximum trailer ratings are

calculated assuming a properly equipped base vehicle, plus driver. See dealer for details. ©2010 General Motors. All rights reserved. Denali® Duramax® GMC® Sierra® WE ARE PROFESSIONAL GRADE®

LOOK WHO’S BEEN REMODELING AGAIN.THE FIRST-EVER SIERRA DENALI HD.

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94 Brag BoardA closet reimaginedand a safe, stylish railing.

98 Reader Projects ContestOur readers share their guyhangouts—but absolutely no girls allowed!

102 Wordless Workshop™

Smart window screen storage.

104 Great Goofs®

Tailgate fallout, and the tale of the $200.89 lightbulb.

TABLE OFCONTENTS

Features27 Secret weapons of the pros

Field-tested favorites from guyswho use tools all day, every day.

34 Sharpen toolsSimple tips from a masterwho’s sharpened more than a million blades.

46 Grab-and-go tool cabinetAn easy-access home for powertools, accessories and more.

The Pro Section

60 Pro toolsA wet saw for big tile, a dual-duty utility knife anddrop cloths that stay put.

62 Track saw passionWhy one skeptic fell madly in love with rail-riding circular saws.

NEW!8 The Stuff We LovePut your hands together for Mr. Jiggle Saw and the restof these great tools.

16 Handy Hints®

Smoother varnishing, and a surprising windshield cleaner.

20 Tools & SkillsThink you know biscuit

joinery? Not so fast.

Departments52 Question & Comment

Fixes for low water pressure,stinky dishwashers and more.

66 Car & GaragePro gearheads and the ratchetsand wrenches they love.

76 Home CareInstall a kid-proof handrail;adjust your oven temperature.

86 Shop RatThe rat’s three friends, tooljunkies all, share their faves.

27

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NOVEMBER 2010 VOLUME 60, NO. 10, 513th EDITION

8

Cover Photo TOM FENENGA

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THE TOTALLY TOOLS ISSUE

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:;(5+:�<7�;6�(��

30-,;04,�6-�;<5,�<7:�When you reach into your toolbox, you want a tool you can rely on. That tool

is Kobalt – the tool you can count on project after project. In fact, Kobalt hand

and mechanic’s tools are backed by a lifetime hassle-free guarantee. So stop

by your nearest Lowe’s to test drive one today, or visit Lowes.com/Kobalt.

© 2010 by Lowe’s. All rights reserved. Lowe’s, the gable design,

Kobalt, and the K design are registered trademarks of LF, LLC.

Available only at

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familyhandyman.com

TABLE OFCONTENTS

Editor in Chief Ken Collier

Senior Editors Travis Larson, Gary Wentz

Associate Editors Elisa Bernick, Mary Flanagan,

Jeff Gorton

Senior Copy Editor Donna Bierbach

Art Directors Vern Johnson, Becky Pfluger,

Marcia Roepke

Production Artist Mary Schwender

Photographer Tom Fenenga

Contributing Editors Spike Carlsen, Rick Muscoplat

Office Administrative Manager Alice Garrett

Financial Assistant Steven Charbonneau

Admin. Editorial Assistant Roxie Filipkowski

Production Manager Judy Rodriguez

E D I T O R I A L O F F I C E

The Family Handyman2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700Eagan, MN 55121; 651-454-9200

Vice President, Publisher Lora Gier

Associate Publisher, Sales Chris Dolan

Marketing Assistant Betsy Connors

Advertising Coordinator Barbara Berezowski

Ad Finance Director Lorri D’Amico

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New York, NY 10017 646-293-6150; 646-293-6248 (fax)

New York Greg Messina, John Dyckman,

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Phone: 646-293-6150; Fax: 646-293-6248

Midwest Carl Benson, John Oldakowski,

Julie Stuber (Sales Assistant)

Phone: 312-540-4802; Fax: 312-540-9556

West Coast Catherine Marcussen, 323-205-0409

Southern States Dan Kellner Phone: 972-529-9687

Classified and Small Display AdvertisingThe McNeill Group, Inc.

Don Serfass, Sales Director, 215-321-9662

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Associate Editor Mary Flanagan

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Community Manager Erik Bergstrom

Director, Internet Technology Bruce Schmidt

Senior Web Analyst Jessica Tomash

C O N S U M E R M A R K E T I N G

Chief Marketing Officer Lisa Karpinski

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PUBLISHED BY HOME SERVICE PUBLICATIONS, INC., A SUBSIDIARY OF

THE READER’S DIGEST ASSOCIATION, INC.

President & Chief Executive Officer Mary G. Berner

President, North American Suzanne Grimes

Affinities and India

The Family Handyman® (ISSN: 0014-7230) (USPS: 515-930).Volume 60, No. 10, 513th Edition. Published monthly (exceptbimonthly in July/August, December/January) by Home ServicePublications, Inc., 5400 S. 60th St., Greendale, WI 53129.Periodicals postage paid at Greendale, WI, and at additional mail-ing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to The FamilyHandyman Subscriber Service Dept., Box 6099, Harlan, IA 51593-1599; 800-285-4961. Subscriptions: In the U.S.A., its territories andpossessions, $24 for one year (10 issues). For countries outside theU.S.A., subscriptions are $28.97 per year in American currency.Canadian GST registration number R123771891. CPM agreementnumber 40065693. Printed in the U.S.A. Copyright ©2010 HomeService Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Unauthorized repro-duction, in any manner, is prohibited. The Family Handyman,Handy Hints and Great Goofs are registered trademarks of RDPublications, Inc. Wordless Workshop, Workshop Tips and aretrademarks of RD Publications, Inc. Subscribers: If the U.S.Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable,we have no further obligation unless we receive a new addresswithin one year.

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Questions about subscriptions?For new and gift subscriptions, a change of address, or helpwith a subscription problem, write to: The Family HandymanSubscriber Service Dept., Box 6099, Harlan, IA 51593-1599,or call (800) 285-4961. Or send us an e-mail [email protected]. Allow two issues for address changes.

Customer informationReader’s Digest may share information about you with rep-utable companies so they can offer you products and servicesof likely interest to you. If you don’t want us to share thisinformation, please write to: Reader’s Digest Mailing List, Attn.: Circ. Dept., Box 6099, Harlan, IA 51593-1599. Pleaseinclude a copy of your address label.

Back issues/article copiesSome past issues are still available for $5.00 each.Photocopies of articles are available for $3.00 each. Call(800) 285-4961 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Central, Mondaythrough Friday, for availability and ordering, or write to: Back Issues, The Family Handyman, Attn.: Back Issues/Articles, Box 6099, Harlan, IA 51593-1599. Or send us an e-mail at [email protected].

Comments and suggestionsWe welcome your ideas and opinions. Write to: The Editor, The Family Handyman, 2915 Commers Dr., Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121. Fax: (651) 994-2250. E-mail: [email protected]

Contributor GuidelinesWe pay $100 for Handy Hints®, Great Goofs®, Shop Rat andWordless Workshop™ submissions that we publish. Submityour original contribution, along with photos or sketches, by e-mail to: [email protected]@[email protected]@thefamilyhandyman.com

or mail to: The Family Handyman2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121

Please include your name, mailing address and e-mailaddress if you have one, and indicate to which departmentyou are submitting. We reserve the right to publish your submission in any appropriate department. If we receivesimilar submissions, we will pay the person who submittedthe item we actually use.

By submitting material (text, photos and illustrations) forpublication, you grant Home Service Publications, Inc., itsparent company, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners andlicensees unlimited use of the material and your name, andthe right to rewrite or modify, reproduce and distribute thematerial in any and all media and in any manner or appropri-ate place. We may contact you via phone, e-mail or mail

regarding your submission. If we select your submission for print, you will receive $100.


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How to Build a Wainscoted Wall

Storm Door Replacement

Plumbing With Pex Tubing

How to Reset a Loose Brick

How to Plant a Maple Tree

Installing a Wall-Hung Sink

Plus these articles

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York Affinity™ Furnaces have an off - the -charts 98%** efficiency rating. As a matter of fact, the York Affinity

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automatically adjusting itself to maintain the desired temperature setting. Quiet, eco-friendly Affinity systems

save energy, money, and the planet. Now that feels nice. Call your York Dealer at 800-910-YORK to learn more.

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**Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratings up to 98% on select models, and no lower than 97.5% on all models with variable-speed motors.

*Offers only available on select products. Call your participating York Dealer for promotion dates and details. Only available through registered York Dealers.

The eco-friendly York Affinity Series Furnaces and Heat Pumps.

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Tools & Gear, DIY and Beyond

THE STUFFWE LOVE

[email protected]

Go-anywhererecip sawsThese things used to be a joke. After just a fewminutes of running time, the batteries wouldleave you high and dry and take forever torecharge. Not anymore. Quick-charge lithium-ion batteries coupled with motor technologymake these things real players. A recip saw isone of those tools that really benefit frombeing cordless. Generally they’re only used for“short-burst” work. You hog through a fewthings and move on. Why hassle with extensioncords? Get one of these and your plug-in modelwill be largely retired. Expect to pay $100 to$370. But if you go with a high-buck unit, it’s abetter deal to buy one as part of a combo kit.

Mini driversCompact cordless drill/drivers maylook like toys, but they’re not. Once you getyour hands on one, it’s guaranteed—your big,old screw gun will be relegated to part-timework. This will be your go-to driver. Most arepowered by 7- to 12-volt lithium-ion batteries, areextremely small and, even more important, areextremely powerful. Plus, they fit in your apron! How cool is that?

Choose an impact-style driver that accepts hex-head drillsand screw drives if you drive a lot of screws.Prices are all over the map, starting at $60and running all the way up past $200.

Everyday tools we loveTool improvements are busting out all over—better motors, betterbatteries, better design. It could be just the right time to upgrade yourfleet of DIY tools. The prices range widely. Go cheap if you’re a part-time handyman, or invest more if you use your tools every day. Hereare a few new tools and one old classic that we love to death.



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Mightymini sidewindersaws

Tool manufacturers aremaking full-size, 7-1/4-in. circular saws much lighterthan they used to be. If you want to go even lighterthan that, check out one of the 5- to 6-1/2-in.-bladecircular saws available from many companies. They’relightweight, but powerful enough to straight-cut 2-bymaterial nearly as well as their big cousins (get a 6-in.model if you want to cut 45-degree bevels, though).Many have blades positioned on the left side of themotor. That makes your cutting lines easier to see. Andsince the saw tilts the opposite direction, it can makebevel cuts that may be hard or impossible with a regu-lar saw. You can spend anywhere from $125 to $280.

One serious tape Stanley has always set the gold standard for tapemeasures. You won’t find many carpenters withoutone of its tapes in the pouch. Stanley’s latest effort,the FatMax Xtreme, has two standout features. First,it projects out an astonishing 13 ft. before collapsing.Second, it has little wings on the sides of the hook tomake horizontal measurements easier. They’ll grab

hold of vertical corners of studs, plywood,drywall or anything else with a sharp

corner—no more frus-tration of havingthe hook slip off just before you get that

number you need. Twenty to 25bucks. stanleytools.com

If I had ahammer...

Well, I do. In fact, I have many. Butmy favorite is the old classic Estwing E320-oz. smooth-face ripping hammer.It’s the perfect combo hammer forframing or trim. Exquisite balance,and unchanged for decades for goodreason. It’s hard to improve onperfection. Expect to pay $20 to $30.

Travis Larson

Man-size lineman’s pliersSome tools are special. Like the lineman’s pliers I inherited from my grandpa, who was arailroad electrician. But times change, and those old pliers are no match for the newChannellock 9-1/2-in. high-leverage lineman’s pliers (model 369). The key to their increasedpower is long handles and a pivot that’s directly behind the cutters. I could easily cut a 20d nailwith them, and I’m no Arnold Schwarzenegger (and probably neither is he anymore!). Cuttingthrough fish tape and any wire you’ll encounter outside a nuke plant should be no problem.

American made. Channellock quality. Under 20 bucks. Hard to beat, huh? Buy them atamazon.com and most hardware stores.

Ken Collier

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Get hooked upThese hooks clamp onto the undersides of rafters and

joists. The more weight, the better they grip, up to200 lbs. worth of whatever it is you want to hang.Order a set of eight Lumb-R-Grip storage hooksfrom duluthtrading.com (No. 69065; $16.50). Any questions?

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Falling prices for fall protectionNot long ago, you had to spend at least$250 for a personal fall arrest system(aka “roof harness”). But prices arefalling like unharnessed roofers—werecently noticed complete kits sellingfor about $110. That includes aharness, a rope, a shock-absorbinglanyard and two types of anchors(screw-down and wrap-around).Kits that don’t include all this stuffcost even less. But c’mon, your lifeis worth an extra 20 bucks. Mosthome centers don’t carry fall-protection gear, so check outamazon.com or search onlinefor “fall protection” to find ahuge selection.

Get hooked upIs it possible to improve on thebungee cord? In a word, yes.This oh-so-useful item getseven better when it’s “ThePerfect Bungee” and it’smade out of polyurethaneinstead of rubber or latex.According to themanufacturer, thesebungee cords will lastforever without cracking,breaking, scuffing orbecoming brittle. (They’re guaranteed for life!)They’ll withstand salt water, oil, ozone and tonsof chemicals you shouldn’t be using (butprobably do). And they’ll stretch to twice theiroriginal size and spring right back again.Available in light- to heavy-duty styles and lotsof different colors, they cost $4 to $5 atamazon.com. They’re also available at majorsports retailers and hardware stores.

Elisa Bernick

The carbide-tip scraperIf you’re stuck scraping paint, don’t make it worse byusing a cheap scraper. Spend at least $10 to get onethat sports a carbide-tip scraping edge. The blade willstay sharper much longer than regular steel, makingscraping paint a bit less painful. Buy one anywherepaint supplies are sold.


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Grandpa’s bevel gaugeMy grandfather used this bevel gauge until he finally hung uphis tool belt and passed it on to me. It’s one of those specialtytools I don’t grab for often, but when I need it, it’s invaluable.

The blade pivots on the handle and rotates a full 360 degreesand can be locked in at any angle. It’s the perfect tool for

replicating cuts while replacing rafters or checking the angles ofwalls or stairs when installing trim. Once I lock the gauge with the

thumbscrew, I can transfer the angle to newlumber or place it against the fence of mymiter saw to accurately set the saw angle.

When I’m finished, I just fold the blade back into thehandle and tuck it away in my tool belt.

You can buy bevel gauges at hardware stores and home centers,but you might want to keep your eye open for an old, used one for cheap—it’s a tool that’s tough to wear out.

David Radtke

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*Standard on Cummins-powered vehicles. Cummins is a registered trademark of Cummins, Inc.

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For me, the holy trinity ofpower tools consists of acircular saw, a screw gunand a jiggle saw (known to mostpeople as a “reciprocating saw”).Nearly every carpentry job needsall three, especially if demo workis part of the equation. In the past30 years, I’ve had a half-dozen jigglesaws: a DeWalt stolen, a Bosch lost (opentailgate on the freeway), a Craftsman thatwore out, a Panasonic that burned out and acouple of others lost along the way. But Iwouldn’t be without one, and you shouldn’t beeither. Right now, I have a cordless, 28-voltMilwaukee and a corded Porter-Cable forthose power-hogging jobs. If you’re justgoing to do light work, these newlithium-ion rechargeable units are theway to go. Craftsman, Ryobi, DeWalt,Porter-Cable and just about everyother power tool company nowmakes cordless versions. I focusedmy laser-sharp, 50-something brainon remembering what I’ve donewith mine the past couple of years,and here’s what I came up with:■ Cut tree roots in postholes■ Pruned trees■ Cut out doorjambs■ Tore out floor

stringers in afiberglass boat

■ Surgically cutdrywall openings

■ Finished circular saw cuts on 6x6s■ Sawed bolts, angle iron, etc.—any job that called for a

hacksaw■ Finished notch cuts on stair stringers■ Cut the tongue off a trailer■ Hacked out copper and steel pipe

Here’s my best advice. Don’t waste your money on cheapblades; get bimetal ones. They’ll cut through nearlyanything and still hold their edge. I usually use only threeblade styles. The blade I use most is an 8-in. coarse-tooth one because it flexes for flush cuts and it’ll punchright through doorjambs to cut through insulation, shimsand nails. For hacking off bolts and other metal, I use ashort hacksaw blade (I never use a regular hacksaw) andlast, I always have pruning blades on hand for trimmingtrees and bushes. Once you get hooked, you can let yourhandsaws collect dust and rust.

Travis Larson

They call meMr. Jiggle Saw

Clog busterLong hair clogging up yourshower drains? Here’s a cheap,fast, chemical-free unclogger.It’s called “Zip-It” and it’s anamazing plastic strip that yousimply stick down your cloggeddrain and pull back up. It bringsup a scary amount of hair and“gunk.” Kind of like fishing, butyou’re guaranteed a catch everytime! We love this thing!

The Zip-It is available atWalgreens, Ace, Lowe’s and Wal-Mart. To see videos of itbusting through clogs, go tozipitclean.com.

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Feeling lonely? Need friends? Own a big,expensive tool and they will come!

I love my scaffolding, as does every shirttail relative and mere acquaintance I have. I bought it for my construction business, and the whole enchilada includes 2-, 4-, 5-and several 6-ft. sections, complete with wheels and a half-dozen aluminum planks.The problem is, everyone knows I have it, and they also know I have a truck for

delivery and, of course, for pick-up when they’re finished. The bestpart, though, is that with my scaffolding, my skill set and myextensive tool collection, I get to help them set trusses, shinglesteep-pitch, sky-high roofs, install windows and do all kinds ofother fun stuff. What a deal!

If you have a huge job to do that requires scaffolding for severalweeks, do the math—it might make sense to buy your own. You canbuy an 11-ft. tower with planks, wheels and safety rails for less than$600 at scaffoldmart.com.

You don’t even have to buy new. Go directly to craigslist.com andyou’ll probably find some used sections, wheels, whatever, for reallycheap. Round up some fellow DIYers to go in on the package withyou. Split three ways, you’ve got a great deal. Just make sure you goin with partners who own trucks! Travis Larson

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http://www.aleve.com

Paintbrush holsterWhen you’re up on a ladderpainting, it’s hard to find a placeto stick your paintbrush where it won’tmake a mess or end up on the floor. I use aplastic cup or container (like a specialty cof-fee container) and a binder clip to make abrush holster. This keeps the brush close athand yet out of the way and out of the soup!

Dave Switzer

SmoothervarnishingI’ve been building and refinish-ing furniture for a long time, andhere’s a tip I use to get a super-smooth finish. Open the can ofvarnish and put it in a few inch-es of warm water. Let it sit forabout 10 minutes, giving it a stirevery few minutes. Stir it againright before you apply it. It willflow more easily, penetrate morethoroughly and set up better.This also works for tung andother penetrating oils.

Anne Tennis

HANDYHINTS

from our [email protected]

®

Shop vacuum drain cleanerI tried everything to clear out a clogged showerdrain. Drain cleaner was useless, and I was wor-ried about scratching the tub with a snake. Myson-in-law came up with the perfect solution.He stuck the hose of his wet/dry shop vacuumdown the drain and the clog was history in notime. If the hose fits loosely in the drain, youcan seal around it with a rag.

Marjorie Corner and Garrett Jacoby

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Get $100 for your Handy Hint! See p. 6 for details.


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WARM

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Digital camera DIY toolWhen you’re working on a repair withcomplex parts or complicated electrical orplumbing connections, take a digitalphoto of the original wiring before youstart the repair. Not only will this help youput it back together againcorrectly, but you can takethe photo to the store andget exactly the right parts.

Jeff Schlueter

Simplepaint traycleanupHere’s the lazy way to clean apaint tray. Finish painting and letthe wet paint tray dry overnight. The next day, start inone corner of the tray and just peel the dried paint outin a single sheet. This works best in a new plastic painttray and when there’s a reasonable layer of paint left inthe tray. Saves water (and elbow grease!).

Bob Balderson

Floor tiles for drawer linersUsing shelf liner to line drawers or shelves isexpensive and a hassle. It’s easier and cheaper touse self-stick vinyl tiles. Cut the tiles to fit with a util-ity knife, then peel off the backing and stick them inplace. I’ve had tiles lining my kitchen drawers for 10years, and they’re still going strong.

Cecelia Blanski

Easy-squeeze oil Pouring oil into a car, lawn mower ormotorcycle can get messy.Here’s a simple and tidyway to do it withoutusing a funnel. Justreuse a pull-up stop-per from a plasticwater bottle. Theycome in a variety ofsizes, and it’s easy tofind one that fitsmost oil containers.

George Pacific Jr.

Windshield wipeI do a lot of country driving, and I always end upwith a bunch of dead bugs stuck to my wind-shield. Using the windshield wipers just creates asmeary mess. You know what works great? Diaperwipes! Wiping the windshield with a thick diaperwipe or two cuts right through the bugs and leavesmy windshield smooth and clean.

Becky Delano

SELF-STICK

VINYL TILE

PULL-UP

STOPPER


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htiW Minwax,® it’s easier than ever tomake your hardwood floors beautiful.

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Makes And Keeps Wood BeautifulTM

Get Inspired. Visit minwax.com

For fabulous-looking fl oors, Minwax® Wood Finish™ stains highlight

wood’s natural beauty. And for long-lasting protection, Super Fast-

Drying Polyurethane For Floors offers superior durability with a

25% faster recoat time than traditional polyurethane, with no need

to sand between coats. But fl oors are just the beginning. Whatever

your wood project, the Minwax® complete line of stains and clear

fi nishes makes it easy for you to add warmth and richness to any

room. Your home will look beautiful…and you’ll look like a pro.

A beautiful, professional fi nish even a real amateur can pull off.

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by Jeff [email protected]

Build cabinets with biscuit jointsThe trick to successful biscuit joinery iscutting the slots in exactly the rightspot so that the parts will line up cor-rectly when they’re joined. Biscuit join-ers have an adjustable fence that can be

used to align the slot,but in this article we’llshow you a different

technique. Instead of referencing theslot from the fence, we’ll show youhow to reference the slots from the baseof the tool. This method has a fewadvantages. It’s simpler to make anaccurate slot because the tool is stead-ied against the workbench rather thanthe tool’s fence. Another advantage of

this method is that you don’t have toreadjust the fence for every cut. In thisstory we’ll show you how to use thebench reference method to join cabinetparts. We’ll show you how to join cabinet panels, face frames and ½-in.drawer material. You can use the sametechnique for any biscuit joint.

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http://www.FDA.gov/medwatch


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http://www.PfizerHelpfulAnswers.com

Join plywood with the bench reference method Photos 1 – 5 show the steps for joining 3/4-in. plywood with-out using the fence. On most biscuit joiners, the slot will bepretty close to centered when you use this method. But evenif the slot is a little off-center, it’ll still work fine as long asyou orient the biscuit joiner and pencil marks as we show inthe photos. Here are a few tips to ensure perfect joints:■ Work on a flat surface. The top of a table saw or a solid-

core door is a good choice.■ Clean sawdust off your work surface before each setup.■ Hold the base of the bis-

cuit joiner and the work-piece tight to the work sur-face as you cut the slots.

5 THE PANELS WILL FIT TOGETHER PERFECTLY The base of the biscuit joiner and the panels wereagainst the bench top when the slots were cut, sothe joints will line up perfectly. T O O L

I S S U En o v e m b e r 2 0 1 0


1 MARK FOR THE BISCUITSAlign the two parts to be joined end to end. Then number the partsand draw pencil lines where you want biscuits. In our example, thelines will be inside the cabinet.

2 REST THE BASE OF THE JOINER ON THE BENCHTo cut accurate slots, rest the biscuit joiner on the workbenchinstead of the fence. It’s more stable and doesn’t require anysetup.

3 HOLD THE PANEL UP WITH A RIGHT ANGLE SUPPORTThe support keeps the panel steady and at an exact right angle.Then use the same method of resting the base of the biscuit joineron the benchtop to cut the slots.

BISCUIT

LOCATION

RIGHT ANGLE

SUPPORT

familyhandyman.comVisit our Web site for more infor-mation on using a biscuit joiner.Search for “biscuit joiner.”

4 GLUE AND BISCUITS MAKE STRONG JOINTSBrush glue into each slot. Then slide biscuits into the slots. Brushglue into the slots on the second panel before you joint the two.

FLUX BRUSH


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1 USE A TEMPLATE TO ALIGN THE SLOT Cut a biscuit slot in a scrap of wood and mark the center and thesize of the slot, in this case No. 0. Now use the template to posi-tion the biscuit mark. We offset this slot to the top where the pro-truding biscuit can be cut off and the slot won’t show.

2 SCREW PLYWOOD TO THE BENCH AS A CLAMPING AIDLine up the end of the part with the end of theclamping board and clamp the two together. Thewide end makes a stable surface to press the bis-cuit joiner against.

Support narrow face frame partsagainst a blockIt’s tricky to cut slots in the ends of narrow parts using thebiscuit joiner fence. The small surface area makes it hard tohold the biscuit joiner stable. But it’s easy to cut accurateslots in narrow parts using the bench reference method. Thephotos here show how. We also show how to cut the biscuitslots off-center so the biscuit will protrude on one side only.This is handy if you want to join narrow parts and the bis-cuits are too large.

3 CUT THE SIDE SLOTAlign the center marks and cut the biscuit slots. The clampingblock makes a solid surface to push against.

MARKING

TEMPLATECENTER OF

BISCUIT SLOT

FACE FRAME

PLYWOOD

CLAMPING AID

FACE

FRAME


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Cutting slots without thefenceAll biscuit joiners feature afence that can be adjusted up or down and pivoted atvarying degrees for cuttingslots in beveled edges. Some woodworkers prefernot to use the fence whencutting slots. Instead, theyuse various spacers and jigsto cut accurate, consistentslots every time with far lesshassle. For most of the tipswe show, the adjustable fenceis simply locked in the uprightposition.

FULL UPRIGHT

POSITION

ADJUSTABLE

FENCE

BASE


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4 ASSEMBLE THE FACE FRAMESpread glue in the slots and insert thebiscuits. Align the parts and clamp them.When the glue dries, cut off the protrud-ing biscuits.

1 LABEL THE PARTS AND MARK THE BISCUIT LOCATIONS Avoid confusion by carefully labeling all the parts. Then mark where you want the biscuits.

Biscuits in thin materialYou can use the same bench refer-ence method to cut slots in materialthinner than ¾ in. by placing spacersunderneath. Subtract the thickness ofthe material from ¾ in. The differ-ence is the spacer thickness. Weshow cutting slots in ½-in. plywooddrawer parts. Without the spacer, theslots would be too close to the edge.But with the spacer, the slots arenearly centered. Photos 1 – 4 show how.

PROTRUDING

BISCUIT



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2 DON’T ADJUST THE FENCE—USE SPACERSInstead of adjusting the fence to cut slots in thinner material, add a spacer underneath.You’ll get great results as long as you use the same spacer when you cut the slots inthe adjoining panel (see Photo 3 below).

3 PLACE THE SPACER UNDER THE END OF THE PANEL Make sure the spacer doesn’t protrude past the face of the panel. Then rest the base ofthe biscuit joiner on the workbench when you cut the slots.


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1/4" SPACER

1/4" SPACER

4 THE OUTSIDES WILL BE PERFECTLY ALIGNEDSince both parts were held up the same amount by the spacer, theparts will line up exactly when you assemble them with biscuits.


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secretweapons

of theSuper-simplesharpenerLike most woodworkers, Dave Munkittrick relies onsharp chisels and planes forhis livelihood. He has a largecollection of sharpening tools,but his favorite sharpeningdevice is the WorkSharp sys-tem shown here, which sharp-ens chisels and plane bladesquickly with no mess. Thebest part is that you don’tneed any practice to get arazor-sharp edge.

The WS 2000 shown costs$100 at home centers andonline.

Pros“I used to put off sharpening because it was such a hassle.With this machine,sharpening is a quicktask, not a project.”


M EET A PRODave Munkittrick,Woodworker

Dave gave up his career as a commercial pilot tobecome a woodworker.He’s been building cabinetsand furniture for 20 years.


We talked to pros, from landscapers to electricians, to see what tools they use tomake their jobs easier, fasteror just more enjoyable. Hereare a few of their favorites.

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Jeff’s boot saverJeff is hard on boots. Unfortunately, the dirt, gravel,stones and pavers chew up the toe box before the rest ofthe boot wears out. But he found a solution. He coats thetoes of his boots with Boot Guard, and it really works.With a $12 investment, you can save your favorite $100work boots from premature death. Look for Boot Guardat a shoe store or order online at kgsbootguard.com.

Costas’s mini cutterCostas has a ton of coolspecialty tools for appli-ance repairs, but hisDremel tool is the one thatoften gets him out ofbinds. Costas fits hisDremel with an abrasivecutoff wheel to remove theheads from stuck sheetmetal screws, cut through rusted-on laundryhoses andremovecorrodedapplianceparts.

M EET A PROJeff Timm,Landscaper

When Jeff isn’t installingstone and brick landscaping, he’s doing home projects like building a two-storydream garage.

M EET A PROCostas Stavrou,Appliance Repair

Costas worked in his dad’sappliance shop in Cyprusbefore starting his appli-ance repair business in the

UnitedStates. He’sbeen at it for28 years.


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Time-saving triangleWhen Jeff installs paver patios and driveways, he focuses on top-quality workman-ship in the most efficient way possible. This giant triangle is perfect because itallows him to quickly and accurately chalk square layout lines. He could do thesame thing using the 3-4-5 triangle method, but this is faster. Just align the chalkline with the edge of the triangle and snap the line. The triangle folds to take upless room in the truck.

The Asquare folding triangle is available online for about $60. Search for “asquarefolding triangle.” One source is contractortools.com.

“This littletool hasgotten meout of somebad jams.”


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http://contractortools.com


If you have COPD (chronic obstructive pulmonary disease), which includes chronic bronchitis, emphysema or both, rescue inhalers alone may not be enough. You and your doctor could talk about adding once-daily SPIRIVA. Taken every day, SPIRIVA can help you breathe better.

Ask your doctor about SPIRIVA, because it:

V Is the only once-daily, inhaled maintenance prescription treatment for both forms of COPD

V Signifi cantly improves lung function bykeeping airways open

V Helps you breathe better for a full 24 hours

V Is not a steroid

SPIRIVA® is not for everyone. SPIRIVA® HandiHaler® is a prescription medicine used once every day (a maintenance medicine) to control symptoms of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) by relaxing your airways and keeping them open. COPD includes chronic bronchitis, emphysema, or both. SPIRIVA HandiHaler is not a rescue medicine and should not be used for treating sudden breathing problems. Do not swallow SPIRIVA capsules. Th e contents of the capsule should only be inhaled by mouth using the HandiHaler device. Stop taking SPIRIVA and get medical help right away if your breathing suddenly worsens, your throat, lips, or tongue swells, you get hives, you have vision changes or eye pain, or you have diffi culty passing urine or painful urination.

Tell your doctor if you have glaucoma, problems passing urine or an enlarged prostate, as these may worsen with SPIRIVA. Tell your doctor if you have kidney problems or are allergic to milk proteins. Ask your doctor if you are not sure. Also discuss with your doctor all the medicines you take, including eye drops. Th e most common side eff ect with SPIRIVA is dry mouth. Others include constipation and trouble passing urine. For a complete list of reported side eff ects, ask your doctor or pharmacist.

THERE MAY BE MORE YOU CAN DO TO HELP MANAGE YOUR COPD.

Talk to your doctor about lifestyle changes and SPIRIVA.

Also call 1.877.SPIRIVA (774.7482) or visit SPIRIVA.COM

Please see Important Patient Information on reverse.

ONCE-DAILY SPIRIVA helps people with COPD breathe better.

You are encouraged to report negative side effects of

prescription drugs to the FDA. Visit www.fda.gov/medwatch

or call 1-800-FDA-1088.

MY GOAL IS TO

BREATHE BETTER

EVERY DAY.

SPC00126SV73162

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IMPORTANT PATIENT INFORMATION

SPIRIVA® (speh REE vah) HandiHaler®

(tiotropium bromide inhalation powder)

Important Information: Do not swallow SPIRIVA capsules. SPIRIVAcapsules should only be used with the HandiHaler device. SPIRIVAHandiHaler should only be inhaled by mouth (oral inhalation).

Read the information that comes with your SPIRIVA HandiHaler before you start using it and eachtime you refill your prescription. There may be new information. This leaflet does not take the placeof talking with your doctor about your medical condition or your treatment.

What is SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

SPIRIVA HandiHaler is a prescription medicine that you use one time every day (a maintenancemedicine) to control symptoms of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD). SPIRIVAHandiHaler helps make your lungs work better for 24 hours. SPIRIVA HandiHaler relaxes your air-ways and helps keep them open. You may start to feel like it is easier to breathe on the first day, butit may take longer for you to feel the full effects of the medicine. SPIRIVA HandiHaler works best andmay help make it easier to breathe when you use it every day.

SPIRIVA HandiHaler also reduces the likelihood of flare-ups and worsening of COPD symptoms(COPD exacerbations). A COPD exacerbation is defined as an increase or new onset of more thanone COPD symptom such as cough, mucus, shortness of breath, and wheezing that requires med-icine beyond your rescue medicine.

SPIRIVA HandiHaler is not a rescue medicine and should not be used for treating sudden breath-ing problems. Your doctor may give you other medicine to use for sudden breathing problems.

SPIRIVA HandiHaler has not been studied in children.

Who should not take SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

Do not use SPIRIVA HandiHaler if you:

• are allergic to tiotropium. See the end of this leaflet for a complete list of ingredients.• have had an allergic reaction to ipratropium (Atrovent®).Allergic reactions may include itching, rash, or swelling of the lips, tongue or throat (trouble swallowing).

What should I tell my doctor before using SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

Before taking SPIRIVA HandiHaler, tell your doctor about all your medicalconditions, including if you:

• have kidney problems.• have glaucoma. SPIRIVA HandiHaler may make your glaucoma worse.• have an enlarged prostate, problems passing urine, or a blockage in your bladder. SPIRIVA

HandiHaler may make these problems worse.• are pregnant or plan to become pregnant. It is not known if SPIRIVA HandiHaler could harm

your unborn baby.• are breast-feeding or plan to breast feed. It is not known if SPIRIVA HandiHaler passes into

breast milk. You and your doctor will decide if SPIRIVA HandiHaler is right for you while youbreast-feed.

• have a severe allergy to milk proteins. Ask your doctor if you are not sure.Tell your doctor about all the medicines you take, including prescription and non-prescription medicines and eye drops, vitamins, and herbal supplements. Some of your other medicinesor supplements may affect the way SPIRIVA HandiHaler works. SPIRIVA HandiHaler is an anticholinergicmedicine. You should not take other anticholinergic medicines while using SPIRIVA HandiHaler, includingipratropium. Ask your doctor or pharmacist if you are not sure if one of your medicines is ananticholinergic.

Know the medicines you take. Keep a list of your medicines with you to show your doctor and phar-macist when you get a new medicine.

How should I take SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

• Use SPIRIVA HandiHaler exactly as prescribed. Use SPIRIVA HandiHaler one time every day.• Read the “Patient’s Instructions for Use” that comes with your prescription before you use

SPIRIVA HandiHaler. Talk with your doctor if you do not understand the instructions.• Do not swallow SPIRIVA capsules.• Only use SPIRIVA capsules with the HandiHaler device.• Do not use the HandiHaler device to take any other medicine.• SPIRIVA HandiHaler comes as a powder in a SPIRIVA capsule that fits the HandiHaler device.

Each SPIRIVA capsule, containing only a small amount of SPIRIVA powder, is one full dose ofmedicine.

• Separate one blister from the blister card. Then take out one of the SPIRIVA capsules from theblister package right before you use it.

• After the capsule is pierced, take a complete dose of SPIRIVA HandiHaler by breathing in thepowder by mouth two times, using the HandiHaler device (take 2 inhalations from one SPIRIVAcapsule). See the “Patient’s Instructions for Use” that comes with your prescription.

• Throw away any SPIRIVA capsule that is not used right away after it is taken out of the blisterpackage. Do not leave the SPIRIVA capsules open to air; they may not work as well.

• If you miss a dose, take it as soon as you remember. Do not use SPIRIVA HandiHaler morethan one time every 24 hours.

• If you use more than your prescribed dose of SPIRIVA HandiHaler, call your doctor or a poisoncontrol center.

What should I avoid while using SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

Do not let the powder from the SPIRIVA capsule get into your eyes. Your vision may get blurry andthe pupil in your eye may get larger (dilate). If this happens, call your doctor.

What are the possible side effects of SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

SPIRIVA HandiHaler can cause serious side effects. If you get any of the followingside effects, stop taking SPIRIVA HandiHaler and get medical help right away.

• Allergic reaction. Symptoms may include: itching, rash, swelling of the lips,tongue, or throat (trouble swallowing).

• Sudden narrowing and blockage of the airways into the lungs(bronchospasm). Your breathing suddenly gets worse.

• New or worsened increased pressure in the eyes (acute narrow-angleglaucoma). Symptoms of acute narrow-angle glaucoma may include: eye pain, blurredvision, seeing halos (visual halos) or colored images along with red eyes.

• New or worsened urinary retention. Symptoms of blockage in your bladder and/orenlarged prostate may include: difficulty passing urine, painful urination.

Other common side effects with SPIRIVA HandiHaler include:

• upper respiratory tract infection• dry mouth• sinus infection• sore throat• non-specific chest pain• urinary tract infection• indigestion• runny nose• constipation• increased heart rate• blurred visionThese are not all the possible side effects with SPIRIVA HandiHaler. Tell your doctor if you have anyside effect that bothers you or that does not go away.

Call your doctor for medical advice about side effects. You may report side effects to FDA at1-800-FDA-1088.

How do I store SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

• Do not store SPIRIVA capsules in the HandiHaler device.• Store SPIRIVA capsules in the sealed blister package at room temperature between

68oF-77oF (20oC-25oC).• Keep SPIRIVA capsules away from heat and cold (do not freeze).• Store SPIRIVA capsules in a dry place. Throw away any unused SPIRIVA capsules that have

been open to air.Ask your doctor or pharmacist if you have any questions about storing your SPIRIVA capsules.

Keep SPIRIVA HandiHaler, SPIRIVA capsules, and all medicines out of the reach ofchildren.

General information about SPIRIVA HandiHaler

Medicines are sometimes prescribed for purposes other than those listed in Patient Informationleaflets. Do not use SPIRIVA HandiHaler for a purpose for which it has not been prescribed. Do notgive SPIRIVA HandiHaler to other people even if they have the same symptoms that you have. Itmay harm them.

For more information about SPIRIVA HandiHaler, talk with your doctor. You can ask your doctor orpharmacist for information about SPIRIVA HandiHaler that is written for health professionals.

For more information about SPIRIVA HandiHaler, you may call Boehringer IngelheimPharmaceuticals, Inc. at 1-800-542-6257 or (TTY) 1-800-459-9906.

What are the ingredients in SPIRIVA HandiHaler?

Active ingredient: tiotropiumInactive ingredient: lactose monohydrate

What is COPD (Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease)?

COPD is a serious lung disease that includes chronic bronchitis, emphysema, or both. Most COPDis caused by smoking. When you have COPD, your airways become narrow. So, air moves out ofyour lungs more slowly. This makes it hard to breathe.

Distributed by:Boehringer Ingelheim Pharmaceuticals, Inc.Ridgefield, CT 06877 USA

Marketed by:Boehringer Ingelheim Pharmaceuticals, Inc.Ridgefield, CT 06877 USA

and

Pfizer IncNew York, NY 10017 USA

Licensed from:Boehringer Ingelheim International GmbH

SPIRIVA® and HandiHaler® are registered trademarks and are used under license from BoehringerIngelheim International GmbH.

©Copyright 2009 Boehringer Ingelheim International GmbH

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

SPIRIVA® is covered by U.S. Patent Nos. RE38,912, RE39,820, 5,478,578, 6,777,423, 6,908,928,7,070,800, and 7,309,707 with other patents pending. The HandiHaler® device is covered by U.S.Design Patent No. D355,029 with other patents pending.

Rev: December 2009

IT1600WL1609 10004551/07 65626-08

SPC00058 SV71939

Do NOT swallowSPIRIVA capsules.

After putting the SPIRIVA capsule into theHandiHaler device, breathe in yourmedicine through your mouth.

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Do-everythingelectrical testerAl Hildenbrand has severalfavorite tools, but the onedearest to his heart and theworkhorse of his stable is theGreenlee GT-95 electricaltester. It’s durable and easy touse. The feature that sold Alwas the ability to test for a hotwire without the need for aknown ground. You simplyhold the tester in your handand touch one probe to thewire you want to test. Pushthe test button to see if thewire is hot. The GT-95 alsofeatures a GFCI tester, a non-contact voltage tester and a continuity tester in addition to a digital and LED displayfor reading voltage.

The GT-95 costs about $80 online, but it’s the only tester you’re likely to need.And it’ll last a lifetime.

M EET A PROAl Hildenbrand,Master Electrician

Al is an electrical engineerwho, after a brief stintbehind the desk, decidedhe’d rather be wiring thancomputing. So he becamea master electrician andhas been wiring ever since.

M EET A PROBill Nunn, Painter

Bill owns a painting company that specializes in top-quality, hand-paint-ed finishes. He’s beenpainting for more than 35years.

Bill’s secret to super-smoothfinishesBill has two favorite tools for help-ing him achieve a flawless finish.One is this handy cone-filter stand Bill picked up at a paintstore many years ago. The other ismesh socks, available at paintstores and home centers, to strainlatex paint before using it.

Buy a strainer stand like this for$10.50 at mcfeelys.com. Enter“PST-0639” in the search box.

No-scratch dusterBill vacuums everything before hepaints it. He thinks the brushes thatcome with shop vacuums are toostiff, though. “They can scratch thesurface and don’t pick up finedust.” That’s why he replaced thedusting brush on his shop vacuumwith a horsehair brush, which hegot for $8 at a vacuum cleanershop. Take your hose and wandalong with you to find a brush thatfits. No vacuum cleaner shop nearyou? Search online for “horsehairvac-uum cleaner brush.”


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“Tack rags are good,but you need to vacuum to get a really smooth finish.”


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M EET A PROTerry Boylan,Plumber

Before retiring to build, tinker and help us out as aField Editor, Terry workedas a master plumber formore than 25 years.

Kirk’s helping handWhen you use a router table or shaper to produce a decorative edge, it’s critical tosimultaneously press the board down and into the fence while you’re pushing it for-ward. Kirk discovered that Board Buddies are perfect for this task. The rollers areshaped to push in and down, and are available in three versions: clockwise, counter-clockwise and freewheeling. If you want to provide anti-kickback safety as well,choose a one-way roller.

If you can’t find Board Buddies at a local woodworking store, look forthem online. One source is rockler.com. A set of two costs about $57; theoptional aluminum mounting track is $25.


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Connect a drill and garden hose to the cylinder.Then thread on a length of pipe and screw theboring bit to the end. Water lubricates the bit as it bores through the ground.

Terry’s magic dirt drillIf you’ve ever had to run a wire or pipe under a sidewalkor driveway, you know there aren’t many easy options.But Terry discovered this unique tool that solves theproblem. You can buy the tool online ($200 to $265) andsee a video of the Borit in action at borit.com.

“The Borit tool saved me and my customersthe expense and mess of trenching through gardens and busting up driveways.”

BORING

BIT

3/4" GALVANIZED PIPE BORIT

CYLINDER

HEAVY-DUTY

1/2" DRILL

M EET A PROKirk Erickson, Woodworker

Kirk caught the carpentrybug as a remodeler andnow applies his skills tofurniture making and the-atrical set building. He hasa woodworking shop wherehe builds furniture andcabinetry.


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http://borit.com

http://rockler.com


M EET A PROLes Zell,Master Plumber

Les has been a masterplumber for 25 years andruns his own plumbingbusiness. His passion issolar heating.

Dean’s do-everything toolThis hooked knife is intended for linoleum and vinylflooring work, but Dean likes it for a host of othertasks. He uses the sharp point to lift misplaced orill-fitting tiles, and to score backer board. Healso uses the knife to clean thin-set frombetween tiles before grouting, but for this heprefers one that’s used and dull. And at $5 apop for these handy knives, you really can’tgo wrong keeping a few in your toolbox.

Les’s quick cutter Plumbers spend a lot of time cutting cop-per pipe, so it’s not surprising that one ofLes’s favorite tools is a tubing cutter, but notjust any tubing cutter. The one Les likesdoesn’t require any adjusting—you just slipit over the copper tube and spin it to cut.

You can buy the Kopex tubing cutter shown here for $20 at toolsdirect.com. Enter “ASP 7028”in the search box. You’ll find sim-ilar tubing cutters at some homecenters and hardware stores.Keep in mind that you’ll haveto buy a separate cutter foreach size tubing.

“I’ve tried other tubing cutters, butthey just don’t last.”

Cut holes in hard stuffDiamond hole saws are no secret to tile setters. But what’ssurprising is that you can buy one at home centers for as lit-tle as $20. Diamond grits embedded in the perimeter of thehole saw cut through tough materials like stone and porce-lain tile, making short work of what used to be a difficulttask. The 1/4-in. hole saw is really handy if you need todrill mounting holes in tile for grab bars or other fixtures.The bit we purchased included a guide and a bottom sealthat allows you to contain a pool of water around the bit tokeep it cool and eliminate dust.

Dean Sorem, Tile SetterDean graduated with a geolo-gy major, became a remodel-ing contractor, and discoveredhe liked tile setting. He’s been setting tile for28 years.

“I picked up the use of alino knife from workingalongside a seasonedjack-of-all-trades flooring installer.”

M EET A PRO


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Sharp!

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knıves

& keep’em sharp

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Joe Gamache, our expertcutler, says there are hun-dreds of devices, tech-

niques and theories about knife sharp-ening. Some sharpening methods arearcane; some ridiculously complicat-ed. Still others are only for thoseobsessed with incredibly sharp edges,and require investing a boatload ofmoney in gadgets.

A steel is the shorthand term for a steelrod used to straighten knife edges.Any decent knife set includes one, butfew people know exactly what it does,much less how to properly use it. If you don’t have a steel, go buy onefor about $20. Joe will showyou how to use it tomaintain a

sharp edge. Don’t waste your moneygetting a diamond-coated sur-face. You don’t need it.

A steel

“To get and keep your knives sharp

and true, you’ll absolutely need two

tools: a sharpener and a steel.”

But Joe has a quick, drop-dead-simple approach that he’s been teach-ing to amateurs for years. You’ll onlyneed a couple of inexpensive sharpen-ing tools and a bit of practice. Master itand you’ll be amazed at how well yourknives perform and how much morefun food prep, carving, slicing andpeeling can be. Or at least how muchless painful.

The must-have toolsJoe suggests either of two choices for asharpener: a V-sharpener or, if you’re amore serious cutler, a stick sharpener.Each has two sharpening surfaces, onefor roughing out an edge and the otherfor the final edge. Both styles are easy

to use. But the stick sharpener willprobably last your entire life. Andwith that style you’ll look prettyimpressive when your guests watchyou sharpen your knife before carvingup the roast.

A stick sharpener comes witha pair of fine ceramic sticks anda carbide notch for roughing. Touse it, simply hold the knife edgedown while you drag it across anddown the stick surfaces. Shown isSmith’s 3-in-1 Sharpener ($20),one of Joe’s favorites.

A V-sharpener has two pairs of cut-ting edges in a V-configuration. Oneside is made from carbide for rough-ing out an edge and the other hasceramic material for fine-tuning theedge. The “V” grinds both sides ofthe knife at once. This Wusthof two-stage sharpener costs $20.

A sharpener

or

by Travis [email protected]

FINE

CERAMIC

STICKS

COARSE

CARBIDE

V-NOTCH

COARSE

CARBIDE

V-NOTCH

FINE

CERAMIC

V-NOTCH

STEEL

All the sharpening tools you’ll need are available anywhere knives are sold. Go onlineand search for specific products or generictool names. Or just visit Joe’s store at ever-sharpknives.com.

MEET A PROJoe Gamache,Honcho of Honing

Joe has sharpened wellover 1 million knives in thepast 20 years. And believeit or not, he’s only needed16 stitches. That’s lessthan a stitch a year! He’llshow you how to safelyachieve sharp edges with-out any trips to the ER.


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http://eversharpknives.com


Go for good enough—not perfection!Super-sharp edges are great—at first.Then the razor edge quickly dulls.That’s because an edge that sharp isnecessarily very thin, and it bends anddulls easily because there’s notenough metal to support it. A knifethat’ll easilyslice throughfood is sharpenough. Thetomato test (p.41) will tellyou when aknife is readyfor food prep.After sharpening and before any foodprep, wipe off the blade with a cloth toremove any metal filings.

When to take your knives to a proIf you follow Joe’s instructions andstill can’t get a good edge, chances areyour knives have been abused to thepoint that they need a pro’s touch torestore the edge. You can do it your-self, but it takes expensive electrictools or a lot of tricky manual grindingon a stone. But for well under $10 perknife, a sharpening shop can bringyour edges to better-than-new condi-tion. Then you’ll be able to keep themthat way using Joe’s techniques.Search online for “knife sharpening”followed byyour city andyou’ll surelyfind a locals h a r p e n e r.And don’tgive up onhigh-qualityknives thathave a chip or notch in the blade. Apro can grind out any imperfectionsand reshape the edge. Yes, you’ll havea slightly narrower blade, but you

won’t even notice.


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36

“Don’t strive

for razor-sharp

edges—‘sharp-

enough’ edges

stay sharp

longer.”

1 ROUGH OUT THE EDGEDraw the knife through the coarse notch with light pressure until you feel it glidesmoothly without any catches. Those indicate nicks or very dull spots. Heavy pressuredoesn’t help; it’ll just remove more material and wear away the knife.

3 HONE THE EDGEMake a few lightpasses throughthe fine ceramic“V” and yourknife is ready forkitchen work.

2 CHECK WITH THE THUMBNAIL TEST (BE CAREFUL!)Set the blade lightly on your nail and drag it toward the end. If it skates over your nail, it’snot ready for the next step yet. Repeat passes and test until the knife “sticks” to your nail.

3 steps tosharp

“If you cook five

meals a week,

take your knives

to a pro for a

tune-up once or

twice a year.”

Continued on p. 41

LIGHT

PRESSURE


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“After steeling, theedge is straight andready for cutting again.”

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Steeling restores the edgeChefs and meat cutters frequently pause and“steel” their cutting edges. Steeling doesn’tsharpen an edge; it straightens it. That’s nec-essary because the thin edge actually bends orwarps while you’re cutting. If you could seethe edge under a microscope, it would lookwavy, and it would feel dull while cutting.Steeling the knife straightens out all thosewaves to restore a straight, even cutting edge.So when your knife begins to seem dull, don’tsharpen it—steel it first. Every time you graba knife for the firsttime to begin cutting,steel it before youeven get started. Butit’s important to do itright or you’ll justmake the edge worse. And don’t act like oneof the Iron Chefs on TV and do it all up in theair—you’ll eventually wind up in the ER. Restthe end of the steel on a cutting board and doyour steeling the safer and more accurate way.It’s very important that you steel at an anglebetween 20 and 30 degrees. Photo 1 shows youhow to figure that out.

If your knife isn’t restored by steeling, youmay need to hit the fine ceramic stone a fewtimes. You should rarely need the coarsenotch after your knife is properly sharpened.That is, unless you’ve wrecked the edge bycutting on a too-hard surface or trying to hogyour way through a bone. If that’s the case,you’ll have to hit the coarse and then the fine.

The tomatotestIf you can slicethrough a tomatoskin without havingto saw your waythrough or poke a starter hole with the knifetip, you have a sharp edge that’s ready forfood prep.

2 DRAG IT DOWN AS YOU PULLStart near the handle and drag theedge downward as you pull it towardyou. Use the entire length of the steel.

3 SWITCH SIDES ON EACH PASSThen repeat the process on the otherside of the steel. Repeat five or sotimes and you’re ready for cutting.

“This is what your knife edge looks likeafter a dinner’s worth of cutting—allbent and wavy.”

“The steel

keeps a knife

sharp.”

“Tomato skins

are the perfect

way to test for

sharpness.”

1 STEEL AT A 22-DEGREE ANGLEStart by holding the knife at 90 degrees to thesteel. Cut that in half and you’ll be at 45degrees. Cut it in half again and you’ll bevery close to 22 degrees, a good anglefor steeling. Don’t fret about hav-ing the exact angle; this systemwill get you close enough.

Use a steel—often!

90°

45°

22°


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Our Field Editors use (and abuse)knives for everything, everywhere.Here are a few of their comments:

Being a former Marine, I think the best and most reliable knife is the Ka-Bar knife(kabar.com). I bought one at the localarmy surplus store. Make sure it isn’t areplica and you’ll have a tough knife thatworks for everything.

Dave Youngblood

talk knives!Field Editors

I still have fond memories ofmy Boy Scout knife. My dadand I used it to carve PinewoodDerby cars. We won two gold andone silver medal in our three-yearracing career.

Steve Schilling

I love my Tormek T-7water-cooled sharpen-ing system ($600 attormek.com). It’s veryeasy to get an extreme-ly sharp edge on knives,and especially wood-working tools.

Andrew Pitonyak

[Editor’s note: Wereceived four endorse-ments of this sharpen-er, but $600? Yikes!]

familyhandyman.comVisit our Web site for more onsharpening. Search for: “how tosharpen garden tools,” “how tosharpen tools,” “how to use anangle grinder” and “how to use a wood chisel.”


T O O LI S S U E

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I know exactly wheremy beloved Schradepocket knife has beenfor the past 20 years,even though I haven’tseen it once in thattime. The kitchen pipeswere freezing at a cus-tomer’s house. Becausethe pipes were impossi-ble to get at from theinside, I opened up thewall, did some foaminsulating, and thenreplaced the sheathing,siding and trim. I alsotouched up all thepaint. Guess what gotleft inside the wall?

Steve Vaalor

For the ultimate Swiss Army knife, check out theSwiss Army Giant ($1,000 at swissknifeshop.com).It has all 87 implements! I can’t imagine trying tohold it while using any of them, however.

David Hawkins

WE

NG

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Cutting boards: Drag the tip of your knife across your cutting board. If the surface doesn’t scratch, it’s too hard and it’lldull your knife in no time. Some plastics and certain-ly glass and laminate surfaces won’t pass the test,even if they’re called “cutting boards” on the label.

Acidic foods: Rinse knives after cutting acidic foods like citrus fruits orpickled goods. Acid promotes corrosion right at the cuttingedge, even with stainless steel. Dry them right afterward.

from JoeCutting-edge tips

Cleaning: Don’t ever throwknives in a dish-washer. Woodenhandles will getruined, and evenstainless steelblades will cor-rode and get dull.Instead, wash yourknives by hand anddry them off right away.

Protect the edges:Don’t just toss unprotected knivesinto a drawer. Either use a knife block orstow them away with blade protectors.Simple cardboard sheaths held togetherwith duct tape will do the job.

Avoid bones:They’ll dull even a high-quality knife.

Electric sharpeners:Don’t ever use a cheap electric knifesharpener, especially the ones found onelectric can openers. They’ll do moreharm than good. If you love gadgets,spend at least $125 for a decent electricsharpener. (You’ll still have to steel yourknives, by the way.)

Other knives: “I sharpen all knives the same way—hunting knives, fillet knives, what-ever. Keep a mini sharpenerin your tackle box and use the same techniques.”

GE

TT

Y /

PH

OT

OD

ISC

Check out Joe’s store ateversharpknives.com forinformation on mail-ordersharpening, tools andmore. These guys reallyknow their stuff!


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tool storageGrab&Go

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51353 Tool Storage - F.qxp:Layout 9/30/10 2:23 PM Page 46

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Do you spend too muchtime looking for tools

on shelves scattered around yourgarage? If so, this grab-and-go tool cab-inet is the answer. You corral all yourpower tools and accessories in oneplace and roll them around your garageor shop. The pullout table is great fordoing quick repairs, prepping tools andsorting parts. The drawers are remov-able totes that you can carry to yourwork area.

You’ll also like how easy it is tobuild. All the parts are glued andscrewed together with simple buttjoints and overlays. Just build the topsection of tool bins first, then build thelower shelving unit to slide under.

Time, money & materialsYou can easily build the cabinet in oneweekend and then apply the finish andinstall the hardware the next. Figure onspending about $375 for the entire proj-ect including hardware and finish. Wechose 3/4-in. birch plywood for themain structure and 1/2-in. plywood forthe backs and drawer sides. You’ll alsoneed hardwood for the drawer frontsand the edges of the pullout work sur-face. You can dress up the look withsimple moldings to cover the exposedplywood faces.

Build the upper bins firstCut the plywood parts according to theCutting List on p. 48. Assemble each ofthe three bins as shown in Photo 1. Tomake assembly faster, we used self-drilling screws, which means youwon’t need a pilot hole or a counter-sink. However, drill a shallow starterhole with a 3/32-in. bit to keep the tipof the screw from wandering off themark as you start to drive the screw.

When you join the three bins (Photo

2), you’ll need a work surface that’sabsolutely flat; an old flush panel dooron sawhorses works perfectly for this.Finish the bin unit by gluing and nail-ing the top into place (Photo 3).

1 BUILD THE BINSPosition the shelves with spacers and tack them in place with a brad nailer. Then addscrews for strength.

by David [email protected]

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SELF-DRILLING

SCREWS

10" SPACER

5-1/2" SPACER

BIN SIDE

(A)

MEET A PRODavid Radtke

David is a custom cabinet-maker, home design consult-ant, freelance editor andhome restoration specialistin Minneapolis. He enjoysarchery, bowmaking, woodturning and cycling—whenever he’s not standingbehind a table saw or sittingin front of the drawing board.


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21"

7"

5-1/2"

15-3/8"

A

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

F

F

R

P

P

Q

Q

G

G

J

E

W

G

S

V

UT

H

K

K

L

L

N

M

Materials ListITEM QTY.

3/4" hardwood plywood 4

1/2" hardwood plywood 2

1/4" x 3/4" screen molding 40'

1/4" x 1-1/2" lattice 20'

3/4" x 1-1/2" (hardwood table edging) 5'

1x8 hardwood (drawer facing) 5'

1x4 hardwood (table front) 5'

14" ball-bearing drawer slides 2

3" swivel casters 4

5" drawer pulls 3

8"-wide drawer pulls 2

Wood glue 1 pint

No. 8 x 1-1/4" screws 1 box

No. 8 x 1-1/2" screws 1 box

5/16" x 1-1/2" lag screws 16

1-1/4" 18-gauge nails 1 box

7/8" pneumatic staples 1 box

Figure A Tool cabinet

Overall dimensions:60-1/2" tall x 61-1/4" wide x 17" deep

Cutting ListKEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION

A 6 3/4" x 15-3/8" x 21" bin sides

B 6 3/4" x 15-3/8" x 18" bin shelves

C 3 3/4" x 5" x 18" upper bin shelves

D 1 3/4" x 7" x 60-3/4" top

E* 1 1/2" x 21" x 58-1/4" upperassembly back

F 2 3/4" x 15-3/8" x 32" lower unitsides

G* 3 3/4" x 15-3/8" x 56-7/8" lowerunit shelves

H 1 3/4" x 15-3/8" x 14-13/16" lowerunit vertical partition

J* 1 1/2" x 32" x 58-1/4" lower unitback

K 6 1/2" x 15-3/8" x 5-1/4" drawersides

L* 6 3/4" x 17" x 5-1/4" drawer frontsand backs

M* 3 1/4" x 15-3/8" x 17-7/8" plywooddrawer bottoms

N 3 3/4" x 6-5/8" x 19-1/4" hardwooddrawer face

P 2 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 15-3/4" plywoodside base supports

Q* 2 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 51-3/16" plywoodfront and back base supports

R 2 3/4" x 15-7/8" x 55-7/8" plywoodfinished sides

S* 1 3/4" x 14-5/8" x 54-3/8" plywoodpullout table

T* 1 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 58-1/4" hardwoodtable face

U* 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 15-3/8" hardwoodtable side edging

V* 1 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 54-3/8" hardwoodtable back edging

W 2 3/4" x 2" x 15-3/8" plywood spacers

* Measure and cut to fit

Bin sidedetail


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48

A


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Making the drawers fitMeasure the openings in the bottomof the bins and then downsize thedrawer about 1/8 in. in total heightand width. Since the drawers don’thave slides, this will give you just theright clearance. Take into account thethickness of the plywood drawer bot-tom. Sometimes “1/4-in. plywood” isactually 3/16 in. thick.

Build the lower shelving sectionMeasure the width of the top assem-bly and then cut the parts for thelower shelving unit so it’ll be exactly the same width. “Three-quarter-inch”plywood isn’t exactly 3/4 in. thick;it’s actually 23/32 in. That’s why it’scritical to measure. Use the CuttingList as a guide, but measure carefullyto be sure.

Screw the sides to the shelves usingFigure A as your guide. Install the lowerpartition (H) halfway between the bot-tom and middle shelf. Cut the 1/2-in.plywood back and check the assem-bly for square, then glue and nail it tothe back of the sides and shelf.

To reinforce the bottom shelf, rip 3-1/2-in. strips of 3/4-in. plywood(parts P and Q) and glue and nailthem to the bottom of the assembly.Screw the casters to the strips.

Combine the two sectionsMount the drawer slide that will sup-port the pullout table (Photo 5). Thenlay the upper unit onto its back andglue and screw the outer sides (R) tothe bin sides (A). You may need to

2 JOIN THE BINSLine them up on a flat surface, then glue and clamp them together. A homemade squaring jig holds the bins square until the back is on.

3 ADD THE BACK AND TOPFirst, glue and nail on the back. Then sand the front edges of the bins so they’re flush.Finally, glue and nail on the top.

4 BUILD THE DRAWERSTack them together with nails and glue,then add screws. A squaring jig makessquare assembly easy. Drill holes throughthe back of each drawer to act as a handle.

familyhandyman.com■ Build a big workbench that fits in a small

space. Search for “folding workbench.” ■ Search for “knockdown workbench” to

find four easy-to-store designs.■ Need more outlets in your shop? Search

for “surface wiring” to see how to do itwithout tearing into walls.

■ Pack more storage into a crowded work-shop. Search for “small-shop storage.”


T O O LI S S U E

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SOLID-CORE

DOOR AS

WORK SURFACERIGHT-ANGLE

CLAMP JIG

1-1/4" HOLE

DRAWER FRONT

(L)DRAWER SIDE

(K)


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7 COVER EXPOSED PLYWOOD EDGES If the trim is a bit too wide, you can shave it slightly with your table saw. Glue and nailthe edging into place.

shim underneath to bring the sidesperfectly flush.

Next, slide the lower unit into theupper until it contacts the spacers(W). Align the faces of the lowerassembly with the outer sides (R) anddrive the screws from the inside.You’ll need nine screws per side.

At this stage, the project hasacquired considerable heft, so getsomeone to help you tip it upright.

Nail on the edgingNow you can cut and glue the edgebanding to the exposed plywoodedges. We used screen molding forthe 3/4-in. faces and 1/4-in.-thick lat-tice for the double-thick faces. Youmay need to rip the lattice to fit. Keepin mind that you don’t want the trimto hang over and obstruct the draweropenings, so be sure to flush the edg-ing with the plywood.

Finishing touchesWith the unit nearly finished, you cannow make the pullout table. Carefullymeasure the distance between theside spacers. Subtract 1 in. from thismeasurement (1/2-in. clearance foreach drawer slide) and build the tableto this precise width. Now you cancut and screw the drawer faces to the

front of thedrawers. Besure you have1/4-in. clear-ance betweenthe bottom ofthe drawer facesand the pullouttable. Align theedges of theouter drawerfaces so they’reeven with thetable front.

For a fast, easy finish, use a wipe-on polyurethane or Watco oil. Use abrush to get into tight areas and thena lint-free rag to wipe the finish. Letdry and give it a second coat.

5 MOUNT THE SLIDES FOR THE PULLOUT TABLEGlue and nail spacers to sides, then add the slides. This is a lot easier to do before youattach the sides to the bins.

6 COMBINE THE UPPER AND LOWER UNITSSlide the lower unit into the upper unit until it makes contact with the spacers. Screw thelower unit to the sides.

To make sure yourdrawers don’t gettrapped inside theiropenings before youinstall the fronts,press a strip of mask-ing tape onto theinside front of thedrawer and let ithang past the drawer. You can pullon the tape if youaccidentally closethe drawer.

tip

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SIDE

(R)

SPACER

(W)

SPACER (W)

SLIDE


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You can double the waterflow through the meter byupsizing it to a 1-in. model.

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QUESTION

Low water pressureI have an older home with galvanized

plumbing and poor water pressure.

The plumber says my pipes are plugged up

with corrosion and mineral deposits and

recommends replacing them to the tune

of $10,000! Can I do this myself?

He’s probably right—over time, galva-nized pipes get clogged with rust andmineral deposits. The elbows and hori-zontal pipes in the basement or lowestlevel are usually the culprits. Butreplacing all the plumbing is really abig job. You could save thousands andmake the project more “bite size” bytrying an incremental approach. Thatmeans starting with replacing an oldwater meter, and then moving on to thenext likely suspects.

Step 1:Replace the main valves,water meter and pipeStart by opening the outdoor hose bibclosest to the water meter. If you havelow flow there, look at the water meter.If the meter fittings are smaller than thepipes going into and out of it, the meteritself is reducing flow. Contact yourwater utility to see if it offers a 1-in.meter. If so, have the utility shut off thewater so you can install larger shutoffvalves and the new meter (you mayhave to pay a fee to have it shut off).Next, replace the first 15 ft. of old gal-vanized pipe coming out of the meter

with 1-in. copper or PEX.Many times, theincreased volume fromthe larger pipes isenough to compensatefor restriction in pipesfarther down the run.

QUESTION& COMMENT

by Rick [email protected]


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UPSIZE THE VALVES AND FIRST 15 FT. OF PIPEInstall two full-port 1-in. ball valves (with drains) oneach side of the new meter. Replace the first 15 ft. ofpipe leading from the meter with 1-in. pipe.

1"

SUPPLY

PIPE

3/4"

WATER

MAIN

1" BALL VALVE

1" METER

METER

WASHERS

HOUSE-SIDE

VALVE

1" 1/2"

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Nearly 15 years ago, GEICO became a proud part of Warren Buffett’s famed holding

company. Back then, the Gecko was one of the hardworking people — sorry, reptiles — in

our GEICO offi ces. Now he’s helped GEICO become not only the third-largest car insurance

company in the country, but also the fastest growing. Which is no surprise. For over 70 years,

GEICO has worked hard to save people hundreds on car insurance. So why not give the Gecko

a call to see how much you could save? You’ll fi nd he’s easier to reach than Mr. Buffett.

A proud history of savings and reliability, backed bythe strength of Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway Inc.

(Note: the above portrait is not Mr. Buffett.)

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Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. GEICO is the third-largest private passenger auto insurer in the United States as reported by A.M. Best 2008 market share data, June 2009.

��

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Step 4: Replace the vertical pipes If you’ve changed out all the horizontal pipesand still have low pressure, you’ll have to bitethe bullet and run new vertical lines. This isthe toughest part because you’ll often have tocut access holes in your upper room walls andfloors for fishing the new water lines. Forgetabout removing the old pipes—just abandonthem in the walls and run new lines with PEX.Pros prefer PEX because it’s easier to fish andcan bend around corners. That’s especiallyimportant where vertical water lines turn torun horizontally along floor joists.

Drill new oversize holes (to accommodatePEX expansion and contraction) and bundlethe hot and cold PEX lines together with tape

so you can make a single pull.Separate them at the top andmake your crimp connections.

AVOID TROUBLE BY REUSING THE OLD ELBOWS AND TEE Leave the old 90-degree elbows and tees in place and remove the old horizontal pipes to each one. Clean out as much rust and corrosion as youcan. Then install new galvanized nipples and dielectric unions before youconvert to copper or PEX.

GET BETTER FLOW WITH NEW STOP VALVESUnscrew the old stop valves and replace them with ball valves. Replacethe supply tubes at the same time.

Step 3:Replace all the horizontal pipesIf the water flow is still wimpy, youhave a big decision to make—replaceall the horizontal sections yourself orcall a plumber. This is actually not ahuge project if your pipes are in a base-ment with an open or a suspendedceiling; you can probably handle ityourself. Replace them with PEX orcopper, your choice. But before youcut the old pipes, heed this warn-ing. Never remove the 90-degreeelbows or tees attached to the bot-tom of the vertical pipes. Thethreaded portion of a pipe isalways the thinnest and breakseasily when it’s old and rusty. Ifyou break the threads on the verti-cal pipe while you’re trying toremove the elbow, you’ll be in realtrouble. So keep those fittings intactwith the vertical pipes and remove

only the hori-zontal sections.Even then, thethreaded area

on the horizontalpipes may collapse andcrack as soon you crankon them. Buy a “nipple extrac-tion” tool, or know whereyou can get one in a hurry ifyou run into that problem.

Step 2:Replace all the fixture valvesIf the water pressure is still too low, startreplacing the old stop valves to the sinks andtoilets. The stop valves and galvanized elbowsbuild up crud just like the rest of the pipes inthe house. Turn off the main water valve andunscrew the stop valve. Dig out any buildupyou see inside the galvanized fitting. Theninstall the new stop valve. Attach one end of anew flexible supply tube to the valve and routethe other end into a bucket. Then open thevalve and flush out any loose crud left from thecleaning procedure. When the water runsclear, turn it off and attach the supply tube tothe faucet or toilet. Repeat the procedure ateach fixture that has low pressure.

The threaded portionof the pipe is theweakest. This nipplebroke as soon aswe twisted it.


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OLD-STYLE

STOP VALVE

BALL

VALVE

VERTICAL

RUN TO FIRST

AND SECOND

FLOORS

LEAVE

VERTICAL

PIPE ALONE

DIELECTRIC

UNION

PEX

CONNECTOR

NEW 3/4"

GALVANIZED

NIPPLE

CRUD

BUILDUP

ELBOW

NIPPLE

BREAK

SUPPLY

TUBE

51305 Q_C F+.qxp 9/30/10 2:28 PM Page 54

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QUESTIONReader has a sinking ceiling

My ceiling is sagging.

What causes this and

how do I fix it?

I’m guessing that the“pillowing” drywallshown in your photois on the top floorand attached to theroof trusses. If so,

I bet the installers used 1/2-in. drywall instead of 5/8-in.Half-inch drywall can sag if it’s hung under roof trusses thatare spaced every 24 in. It isn’t strong enough to handle thespan, and the weight of the attic insulation just makes thesagging worse.

You only have two choices: Rip it out and replace it with5/8-in. drywall or add spacers and new 5/8-in. drywallbelow it. Ripping out the old stuff is the most professionalapproach, but it’s a nightmare job. You have to pry out theceiling drywall along the edges and pluck out all the old dry-

wall screws. As if that weren’t enough fun, theattic insulation may collapse into the room.

Figure AEasy ceiling fix

If you can live with a lower ceiling height, you can save alot of time by installing a new ceiling below the old one.Add the 1-by furring strips (on 16-in. centers) shown inFigure A. Use 1x3s rather than 1x2s because it makes the drywall easier to hang. (But if your ceiling sags more than3/4 in., use 2x2s.) Screw the 1x3s to the truss framing with2-1/2-in. drywall screws spaced every 2 ft. Next, install andtape and finish new 5/8-in. drywall. If you have ceiling fix-tures, you’ll have to extend all the boxes so they’re flushwith the new ceiling.


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PILLOWED

DRYWALL

24"TRUSS2-1/2"

DRYWALL

SCREWS

NEW 5/8"

DRYWALL

OLD

DRYWALL

ATTIC

INSULATION

1-5/8" DRYWALL

SCREWS

1x3

STRIPS

51305 Q_C F+.qxp 9/30/10 2:28 PM Page 56

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http://www.BonderaTileMatSet.com

After you’ve cleaned the agitator, reinstall itand fill the tub with hot water. Next, dump in 8oz. of washing machine cleaner (Washer Magicis one brand; $11 from amazon.com or appli-ance parts stores) and run it for a full cyclewithout any clothes. That shouldeliminate the problem. If not,repeat the procedure.

QUESTIONMysterious stains appear on clothesafter washing

I get these

grease-like marks

on my clothes when

they come out of

the washer. But the

marks wash out

the next time I do

laundry. What are

they and how do

I stop them?

Since the stains wash out, it’s a sure bet they’recaused by detergent and fabric softener that havecongealed on the underside of the agitator or alongthe top edge of the washer basket.

To eliminate the problem, first clean any crudfrom the gap along the top of the washer basket.Then remove the agitator and clean the gunk offthe underside. Since the agitator removal proce-dure varies by manufacturer, go to appliance-guru.com and search for your make and model. T O O L



SOAP AND

FABRIC

SOFTENER

BUILDUP

51305 Q_C F+.qxp 9/30/10 2:28 PM Page 57

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http://www.startyourenginesus.com

QUESTIONStinky dishwasherThe smell in my dishwasher is so bad

that it just about knocks me over when

I open the door. I’ve tried running bleach

in it, but the smell returns about a week

later. What can I do to get rid of the

smell?

First, stop using bleach. It’s very cor-rosive to metal parts and doesn’t solvethe root problem. The smell comesfrom bacteria that feed on trappedfood and grease in the strainer screenat the bottom of the machine, in thejets in the sprayer arms and along thebottom edge of the door.

Start by cleaning and rinsing outthe screen at the bottom of the tub. Next, clean out anyfood lodged in the ports of the sprayer arm (top photo).Then clean off the bottom edge of the door and the metallip area that sits below the door (bottom photo). You’ll besurprised at how much crud is there.

Once you’ve cleaned those areas, throw in a bottle ofdishwasher cleaner and disinfectant (DishwasherMagic; $5 from amazon.com) and run a full cycle withno dishes or dishwashing detergent. Keep those criticalareas clean in the future and your stinking problemwon’t come back.

CLEAN OUT FOOD BUILDUPTip the door down all the way and spray the bottom edge and liparea with cleaner/degreaser spray. Let it soak for a while, thenscrub it clean. Repeat anytime you see buildup.

LOOKS CLEAN ON THEOUTSIDE—BUT IS IT?


T O O LI S S U E

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We found this cool science experiment growing in our “clean” dishwasher.

FOOD

BUILDUPFOOD

BUILDUP

51305 Q_C F+.qxp 9/30/10 2:29 PM Page 58

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http://www.realhealthlabs.com

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Big saws for big tile Ridgid throws two new pro-grade tile saws into the fray withthe R4010 ($700) and “The Beast” ($900). Both saws featurebevel-cutting capability, an easy transport stand, water man-agement systems and a motor with brake. They cut huge tiles,up to 34 in. wide and 24 in. diagonally. Chunks and slurry arefiltered from the water to protect the pump and provideclean recycled water to the blade.

The Beast features a variable-speed motor so you candial in the optimal blade speed for the material you’recutting, maximum cut capacity and unlimited bevelangle adjustment. Check out the saws at Home Depot (notcarried at all stores but can be ordered from any) or go to

ridgid.com to see a video and find out more. RIDGID.COM

1 knife, 2 bladesRoofers, do you constantlyswitch between straightblades for felt and hookblades for shingles? Try the10-501 Bostitch Twin BladeKnife ($10), which carriesboth types on board. Youjust push forward the buttonfor the blade you want. Italso stows nine spare bladesand has a quick blade-change system that actuallyworks. All that, and the rub-ber-coated handle is easy togrip when you’re plowingthrough rock-hard shingleson frigid days. Available atLowe’s and online. BOSTITCH.COM

The Pro Section

ProTools

Gear&by Travis [email protected]

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Grippy drop clothWhen it comes to floor protection, you have topick your poison: Canvas drop cloths don’tslide around when you’re working, but they’llleak if you have a big spill and they’re bulky.Plastic cloths are leakproof, but they’re slip-pery to work on and won’t stay put.

Not anymore. Try the new 3M Hand-MaskerFloor Gripper Anti-Slip Runners for hallways,stairs and along walls you’re rehabbing.They’re leakproof and specially treated to gripany floor surface. Fairly durable, but cheapenough to toss when they start to wear out.Choose from many widths, and lengths up to50 ft. Prices range from $16 to $65. Find therunners at home centers and hardware storesnationwide. Or search online for “3M FloorGripper.”

“THE BEAST”

HOOK

BLADE

STRAIGHT

BLADE

51356 Pro Tools - F.qxp:Layout 9/30/10 2:35 PM Page 60

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When I first laid eyes on a track saw, I thought, “I have a table saw.

I have a straightedge to guide my circular saw. Why would

I spend $500 (or more) on one of these contraptions?”

I was sure it was another tool gimmick for suckers.

Then I talked to track saw owners, from cabinet-

makers and flooring installers to trim

carpenters and remodelers. Every

single one of them told me that

buying a track saw was a

smart move. Now I own

one too. Here’s why:

The Pro Section

things to love about

TrackSaws

And why you’ll own one—sooner or later

1. It’s not justa circular sawwith a fancystraightedgeA track saw is similarto your framing saw—the way a Porscheis similar to a dumptruck. It’s engineeredto be smooth and pre-cise rather thanrugged, and you’llfeel the difference thefirst time you pull

the trigger.

YOU PUSH, THE BLADE PLUNGESUnlike your circular saw, this hasno clumsy blade guard to fight.On the DeWalt and Festool, a riv-ing knife follows the blade, reduc-ing kickback and blade-pinching.

PRECISION GUIDANCE SYSTEM Unlike a straightedge, the railwon’t let the saw veer off course.Adjustment knobs fine-tune thefit between the saw’s shoe andthe track, so there’s zero slop.

ACCURATE ADJUSTMENTS All three models feature easy-to-read scales, solid depth stops, andfront and rear bevel locks. Forgetthe ballpark settings on your circu-lar saw; with a track saw, whatyou set is what you get.

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PLUNGE

TRACK

ADJUSTMENT

DEPTH

GAUGE

DEPTH

STOP

BEVEL

GAUGE

BEVEL

LOCK

RIVING KNIFE

by Gary [email protected]


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Bellawood American Cherry is available at Lumber Liquidators

“ I liked the quality of

Bellawood so much,

I installed it in my

own home.”

- Bob Villa

Bellawood® has an 8 layer

fi nish that is 3 times the

industry standard for wear

and is backed by a 50 year

warranty.

Beauty and Quality

Bellawood® is the premier brand

of prefi nished hardwood fl oors

on the market today. Whether

you select a traditional domestic

fl oor or a rich exotic hardwood,

each Bellawood® fl oor is

exquisite, beautiful, unique and

sophisticated.

Convenience

When you choose Bellawood®

Prefi nished Hardwood Floors,

you’ll save the time, dust and

odor associated with sanding and

fi nishing hardwood fl oors after

installation. Our solid wood fl oors

have an exclusive high-abrasion

aluminum oxide fi nish that’s

applied in the controlled conditions

of our facility, not in your home.

You just install and enjoy.

Warranty

Our solid, traditional hardwood

fl oors have an exclusive high-

abrasion, aluminum-oxide fi nish

and a 50-year warranty.

FAMHDMN11.10

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6. PainlessportabilityA track saw does mostof what a table saw does,but moving between jobsites is a lot easier. Safer,too: Carrying a track saw,you’re less likely to bang updoor casings or wreck yourback. Plus, you can callMom while you loadup your truck.

3. Dust collection that really works The shroud on a track saw doesn’t just enclose the blade; italso creates an effective dust trap. Add a vacuum hose andyou can do things you wouldn’t dream of with any other saw.

Like cut MDF inside Mrs. McFussy’s house.

There are three bignames in the track sawmarket. You’ll find thesaws sold separately oras kits, with one track ortwo, with or withoutaccessories. That canmake price comparisonstricky, but expect tospend about $500 for asaw and a rail longenough for 4-ft. cuts. Theblades are oddball sizes:6-1/2 in. for DeWalt andMakita, 6-1/4 in. forFestool. So pick up anextra blade or two ($50to $80 each—ouch!).Festool also makes atrack saw with an 8-1/4-in. blade (TS 75; $650for the saw only).

5. Nice for tight spacesA track saw can make big cuts in a small space. If you had to,you could slice up a full sheet of plywood in an 8 x 10-ft.room. Unlike with a table saw, there’s no need for infeed or outfeed space. A track saw is also aspace saver in yourtruck or van.

Just align the trackwith your marksand you’re ready tocut. The plastic edgeshows you preciselywhere the blade will cut.No test cuts, no double-checking, no guesswork.Again and again, track sawowners told me, “I’ve neverscrewed up a cut with this saw.”

2. Look Ma, no clamps!Those sticky rubber strips on the track bottom don’t slip;no need to waste time clamping down the track in mostsituations—even when you’re trimming doors. Cuttingclampless is scary at first, but you’ll learn to trust thesticky strips. For those rare times when you need them,get clamps that lock into the track (about $40 a pair).

T h e m a i n p l a y e r s

DeWalt DWS520

Festool TS 55

Makita SP6000

4. Instant, exact setup


T O O LI S S U E

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PLASTIC

EDGE

STICKY

STRIP

Get your owntrack saw,

Mom!


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7. Long miters, no limitsWith a miter saw, a table saw or evena panel saw, the length and angle ofthe cut are limited. Not so with atrack saw. You’ll get an accuratemiter no matter how long or howsteep the angle. But there is onedownside. Unlike those other saws, atrack saw doesn’t have a built-inmiter gauge, so setting up miter cutscan be slow. If you do lots of longmiters, you might want to spend $50to $100 on a miter gauge that locksonto the track.

10. Connect the tracks,cut for milesThe ends of the tracks are deadsquare, so you can lock them togeth-er for super-straight, super-long cuts.(I heard from a gym-floor installerwho lays up to 100 ft. of track for asingle cut!) The connectors costabout $17 each. One connector isgood, but two is better. Most rails fallinto one of two general categories:long enough for a 4-ft. cut (about$100) or long enough for an8-ft. cut (about $200).

8. Clean, smooth cuts

I made test cuts with track saws and a top-of-the-line cabinet saw. Whether the

material was solid wood, plywood or MDF, the track saw cuts were just as

smooth as the table saw cuts. To test for tear-out, I added a circular saw to the

contest and cut melamine. The track saws did the best, producing almost per-

fect cuts, with only a few tiny chips on the top of the waste piece. The table saw

left tiny chips on the face-down side. The circular saw did just what you’d expect.

9. Single-stage plywood cuttingTo avoid wrestling heavy sheets across a table saw, many of us performa two-act play: We rough-cut with a circular saw, then make finish cutson a table saw. With a track saw, you can skip the second act. The firstcuts will be your final cuts—every bit as straight, smooth and accurate asyou’ll get on a table saw.

I s y o u r t a b l e s a w o b s o l e t e ?Nope. If you get a track saw, your table saw may get some long vacations, but itwon’t go into retirement. Cutting small parts with a track saw is clumsy, and cut-ting much deeper than 2 in. is impossible with most models. And when it comesto identical repeat cuts—ripping wide boards into cabinet stock, for example—atrack saw is a slow, sorry substitute for a table saw.

familyhandyman.com• Turn your table saw into a precision crosscutting machine. Search for “table saw sled.”

• Make long, straight cuts with a circular saw. Search for “long cuts.”

CONNECTOR

TRACK SAW

TABLE SAW

CIRCULAR SAW

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by Rick [email protected]

CAR &GARAGE

Mechanics’ top toolsDoing your own car repairs saves a boatload of moneyand gives you bragging rights on Monday morning.(Yeah, I replaced my crankshaft over the weekend—sowhat?) But let’s be honest here—you’re really in it forthe tools, right?

That’s what I thought, so I asked three shop owners,our auto mechanic field editors and my gearheadfriends to tell you about their favorite tools. As youmight expect, some are pricey. But they’re simply thebest tools around. Want one? Start reminding the family right now how much money you’ll “save”!

David’s portable powerDavid Marofsky and his auto salvageyard crew spend most of their timeout in the yard yanking major com-ponents out of junk vehicles. So it’sno surprise that his tool of choice is aportable 1/2-in.-driveimpact wrench. What doessurprise me is that all theprofessional mechanicsfeatured in this story rou-tinely use battery-poweredimpact wrenches—and notjust when they’re outside.In fact, David owns severalof these workhorses andalways keeps one near thehoist. He also owns a few Snap-on 3/8-in.-drive impact wrenchesfor working under the hood (No. CT4450A; $422 with one 14.4-volt battery, case and charger).

I never thought I’d see the day when battery power replacedcompressed air. But David raves about the bolt-busting power (awhopping 620 ft. lb. of breakaway torque) of the CT6850. Heeven uses it on large 32-mm axle shaft nuts. “It hasn’t let me downyet,” he says. If you’re ready for power on the go and in the shop,

check out a battery-powered impact wrench. Snap-on impact wrench, No. CT6850; $555 with two

batteries, charger and case from buy1.snapon.com



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Blast off any nut or bolt with a heavy-duty, battery-poweredimpact wrench like this 1/2-in.-drive Snap-on wrench.

MEET A PRODavid Marofsky

David has owned MarcoAuto Parts, an auto sal-vage yard, for 10 years.

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Kurt’s bolt blasterKurt Spohn shares mylove of tools, so it’s nosurprise that he pickedthe same 3/8-in. driveSnap-on air ratchet Iown. Spending over$400 on an air ratchet may seem exces-sive, but not if you’ve tried this baby. It putsout 65 ft. lb. of nut-busting torque. Thatmeans you can slip a socket onto a bolt headand just press the trigger. The FAR7200 willbreak it loose and spin it out in seconds.

But be careful when reinstalling nuts andbolts. Make sure the threads are fully engagedbefore you hit the trigger. Because if they’re not,this ratchet is powerful enough to ram a cross-threaded bolt all the way home.

Snap-on air ratchet,

No. FAR7200; $412 from

buy1.snapon.com

Paul’s bolt spinnerPaul Selbitschka spends quite abit of time under the hood doingtune-ups and computer diagnostics.Since I already had nominations for powertools, I asked him for his favorite hand tool.He didn’t hesitate for a second. He simplyloves his flex-head ratchet. The ultra-thinhead lets Paul squeeze into tight spaces,and the flex feature allows him to pivot thehandle to get maximum leverage for loosen-ing fasteners and spark plugs. The largeplastic handle lets him put more muscle intothe “break.” The ratchet really goes to townonce the bolt is loose. Paul just twirls thehandle 360 degrees and spins the nuts andbolts out in seconds. It’s a cool tool—onethat belongs in every DIYer’s toolbox, gear-head or not. Mac Spinflex ratchet, No. XRS11FPA;

$144 from mactools.com


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MEET A PROKurt Spohn

Kurt owns Action AutoRepair in Minneapolis.

MEET A PROPaul Selbitschka

Paul owns a Precision TuneAuto Care shop that spe-cializes in auto diagnostics.

Zap out nutsand bolts with a heavy-duty3/8-in.-drive airratchet fromSnap-on.

Bend the handle of aMac Spinflexratchet soit’s at a rightangle to thehead. Thenspin theratchet por-tion to zipnuts andbolts out.


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Every day, customers ask mechanics tofind and fix strange vehicle noises. Lazymechanics just guess at the cause andreplace parts until the noise goes away(on your dime, of course). But profession-al mechanics use a stethoscope. So Iwasn’t surprised that several field editorspicked the automotive stethoscope astheir favorite tool. It’s an invaluable tool.But it does have one drawback—it can’thelp you find a noise that occurs onlywhen you’re driving. So some mechanics(like me) are jumping on the wirelessbandwagon. To find the source ofclunks, thumps and whirs, Iuse a wireless stethoscope.

This kit comes with fourtransmitters and micro-phone clamps, a receiver,headphones and hook-and-loop straps. Justclamp the microphones tothe most likely sus-pects in the gen-

eral vicinity of the noise. Then take thevehicle for a spin. Listen to each micro-phone until you hear the noise. That’syour villain.

If you’ve got an annoying vehicle noisebut aren’t up for buying one of these kits,find a shop that owns one.Steelman No. STE97202 Wireless Chassis

Ear Kit; $200 from tooldiscounter.com

Rick’s super-sensitive ears


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Track down annoying hard-to-findnoises with a wireless stethoscope.Clamp the microphones near thesuspects and go for a drive. Thennote which transmitter is capturingthe offending sound.


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Vacuum pump, bleeder, pressure-testing kit A hand-operated vacuum pump is simply a “must-have” tool. And

this Mity Vac kit is well built, reasonably priced and comes with allthe attachments you’ll ever need.

Use the vacuum pump to test your vacuum-controlled sen-sors and motors. Or find a leaking vacuum line by plugging each

one and applying vacuum. If it holds, it’s good. You can also usethe gauge to find a vacuum leak. Just spray carb cleaner

around the possible leak sites. The gauge willflutter if you spray a leaking area. Want to bleed your brakes yourself?

Just attach the fluid transfer bottle andvinyl tubing to the pump. Next, use therefill adapters to keep the master cylin-

der filled while you suck brake fluidout of the bleeder screws. Keep

pumping until you see freshfluid. You can also use the

pump to flush power-steer-ing fluids.

Mity Vac, No. MV8500;

$54 from mechanic-

stoolsupply.com

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Battery carrierOld car batteries weigh aton, and they’re alwayswedged in tight. The days ofwrestling one out with yournice clean hands are over.Just open the jaws of thisbattery carrier, slap it overthe battery, and lift up andout. Now you can carry thebattery at your side andaway from your clothes.Then use it to load in a newbattery.. Your work’s done—and your shirt lives to seeanother day. Kastar B600, $19;

amazon.com


FLUID

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Hang ’em highAir tools don’t come with hooks, and they don’tnest well in drawers. So plunk down 23 bucks onthis locking air tool holder and your life will be com-plete. Having second thoughts about that neighboryou entrust with your house key when you’re away?Throw your bolt cutters in your suitcase and snap apadlock on the rack. There, it’s done. Lisle locking air tool holder, No. 49960;

$23 from amazon.com T O O L



Light up the hoodLight up the entireengine compart-ment with this clip-on light. The Under-hood Lite fits carand truck hoodsfrom 4 ft. to 6 ft. 6 in.wide. Spring-loadedJ-hooks snap it ontothe hood of yourvehicle. The hooksare foam-covered,so you can scratchthe scratch worries. Central Tools No.

13003; $130 from

amazon.com


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Finger ratchet for tight placesCarmakers love to install relays and con-trol boxes in deep, dark places underyour dash, and there’s no way to get bigtools in there to loosen the hex-headscrews. That’s where this 1/4-in.-drive SK Hand Tools (1-1/2-in. diameter)finger ratchetcomes inhandy. If youcan get yourhand in place,you can get thefastener out. Thefine-tooth ratchet mecha-nism lets you rotate back-ward to get another “bite,”without turning the screwback in. You won’t use thistool often, but when youneed to, it pays for itself. SK Hand Tools 1/4-in.-drive

ratchet, No. 49270; $20 from

toolfetch.com

Screw pitchgaugeYou’ve lost a bolt and nowyou’re rummaging throughyour old bolt collection andtrying every one that lookslike a contender. It turns in afew threads and thenstops. Darn, you’re tryingto ram an “English” boltinto a metrichole. Stopwasting timeand buy aninexpensivescrew pitchgauge. The gaugereads both metric andEnglish thread sizes. Every shop ownsone and you should too. Just find the“leaf” that mates to the threads on thenut or bolt and read the screw “pitch”(for metric fasteners) or the teeth perinch (TPI) for English fasteners. Recordthe number and run to the hardwarestore, or use the measurement to matchup an old bolt from your collection.Hanson pitch gauge, No. 12017;

$7 from toolsource.com


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HOMECARE &REPAIR

1 ATTACH THE RETURNS WITH SCREWSPosition the handrail on the board so the space above the rail and below the brackets isabout the same, spacing the rail evenly from both ends. Drill pilot and countersink holesand screw through the board into the returns with 2-in. screws.

2 SCREW THEBOARD TO THESTUDSPosition a strip of masking tapeparallel to the stairswith the top edgelocated so that thetop of the rail will be34 to 36 in. abovethe stair nosings.Locate the studsand mark them onthe tape. Supportthe handrail boardon a pair of nails.Drive a pair of 3-in.screws into everyother stud.

3 SCREW THEBRACKETS TOTHE BOARD Complete the job by straightening the brackets and screwing them tothe board. Use thescrews providedwith the handrailbrackets.

Solution for a loosehandrailWhether you need to add a newhandrail or firm up a wobbly one,here’s a new handrail hanging methodthat’s easy and super strong. The trickis to mount the handrail to a board firstand then screw the board to the wall.This eliminates the hassle of trying toline up the brackets with the studs, andallows you to securely attach the endreturns with screws running throughthe back side of the board. This methodis much easier since most of the work isdone on your workbench. And it alsohides any damage from a poorly hungexisting rail.

Start by measuring the distance fromthe nosing at the top landing to the nos-ing on the bottom tread. Add 12 in. tothis measurement to find the length ofthe board you’ll need. We used a 1x6and shaped the edge with a router andcove bit. Cut the handrail 6 in. longerthan your measurement with 45-degreemiters on each end. Screw the handrailbrackets to the handrail (but not theboard yet), spacing them about 4 ft.apart and about 1 ft. from each end.Support the handrail on the board andmeasure from the tip of the miter to theboard to find the length of the returns.Cut the returns. Then glue and nailthem to the ends on the handrail. Photos

1 – 3 show how to complete the job. Weused finish screws to attach the boardto the wall because the heads are small-er and easier to hide.

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NOSING

51306 Home Care F+.qxp 9/30/10 2:50 PM Page 76

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Stuck laundry hoses?Rusted-on laundry hoses are nearly impossible to unscrew. If you need toremove or replace your laundry hose and just can’t get it loose, here’s the solu-tion. Carefully cut through the hose end. Try to avoid cutting too deep, butdon’t worry if you nick the threads on the valve. The threads don’t seal the con-nection. That’s taken care of by the rubber washer. You can use a hacksaw tomake the cuts, but a Dremel tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel works even bet-ter (Photo 1). Cut the hose end in two places, then try to unscrew the fitting withwater pump pliers or a pipe wrench. If it’s still stuck, break it off with the pli-ers (Photo 2).

1 SLICE A CORRODED HOSE END WITH A DREMELCut through the hose end a little at a time until the slice extends through the metal.Don’t forget your safety glasses. Make two slices on opposite sides of the hose end.

2 PRY IT OFFIf you still can’tunscrew it, pry itloose with waterpump pliers. Afteryou’ve removed thehose, clean off anyremaining rust andcorrosion from thevalve threads with awire brush.

CUTTING WHEEL

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Adjust your oven temperature setting If the temperature in your oven doesn’t match your temperature set-ting, or if your new oven just doesn’tcook like your old one, you can recali-brate the temperature setting. Theinstructions for adjusting the tempera-ture are in your instruction manual. Ifyou don’t have a manual, ask the man-ufacturer to send you one or go onlineand search for a downloadable ver-sion. Enter your oven’s model numberalong with the words “instructionmanual” in the search box and you’resure to find what you need.

You’ll need a good-quality oventhermometer to see if your oven isheating accurately. The OXO brand thermometer shown here costs about $15,but others will work too. Check local retailers (kitchen and department storestend to carry good ones) or buy one online. Place the thermometer on the cen-ter shelf and wait for the oven to maintain a constant temperature. Then usethe procedure outlined in your manual to match the temperature setting to thethermometer reading.

ADJUST THE TEMPERATURE SETTINGOn this GE oven, you press the “bake” and “broil” buttons simultane-ously, and then press “bake” to enter the temperature-adjustingmode. Then you keep pressing the “+” or “- ” button to coordinatethe thermostat with the actual oven temperature.

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CHANGE


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Washer stuck on one cycle? If your washing machine is stuck onone cycle and doesn’t advance, thetimer is broken. Replacing a timer issimple, but it’s not cheap. A new onewill run about $120. Still, that’s lessthan a new washer.

Photos 1 and 2 show how to remove theold timer. To start, unplug the machineand remove the control knob. On thisMaytag washer, you pry off the plasticdisc in the center of the knob to reveala clip that holds the knob. Arrange theparts in order as you take them off soreassembly will be easier. Photo 3 showshow to install the new timer. Contactthe manufacturer of your washer or thelocal appliance repair parts store tofind a new timer.

1 ACCESS THE CONTROLSUnplug the washer. Then remove thescrews that hold the control panel in placeand tip the top of the panel forward.

2 REMOVE THE TIMERUse a nut driver to remove the screws that hold thetimer to the front panel. Pull the timer back and out.

3 PLUG IN A NEW TIMERPress in on the plastic retainer clips on each side of the plug and pull the plug from the timer.Push the plug into the new timer and put everything back together in the reverse order.

CONTROL

PANEL

INDICATOR

SPRING

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RETAINING

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CAP

SCREW

TIMER

NUT DRIVER

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2 SPRAY IT WITH SILICONESpray silicone on the cleaned-up sprinkler to lubricate the parts andto prevent iron and mineral buildup.

Clogged sprinklersIf you have a lot of iron or other minerals in your water, then you know theproblem. Iron builds up on the working parts and in the holes of sprinklers.Impact sprinklers like the one here can quit working altogether. A simple soak-ing in a rust-removing solution followed by a spritz of silicone lubricant willrejuvenate your sprinkler. We used CLR Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover(about $8 for 28 oz.), but other rust-removing solutions will also work. Soakthe sprinkler for about 30 minutes (Photo 1). Then remove the sprinkler andclean off any remaining mineral or rust buildup with a brass-bristle brush.

1 SOAK YOUR SPRINKLER IN RUST REMOVERFill a freezer bag half full of CLR or a similar rust remover and drop your sprinkler intothe bag. Swish it around occasionally to distribute the solution. Remove the sprinklerafter 30 minutes and rinse it in clear water.

CORRODED

SPRINKLER

CLR

SOLUTION


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Shutoff valve leaking?Don’t panic. Here’s a simple fix thatworks more than half the time anddoesn’t cost a dime to try. Many shut-off valves have a packing nut orpacking material that surrounds thevalve stem. The packing can shrinkor get worn over time, causing waterto leak out around the valve stem.This usually happens after someonehas closed and opened the valve for arepair or for some other reason. Thegood news is that in most cases sim-ply tightening the packing nut willfix the problem. Go easy, though. Ifyou tighten it too much, the valvewon’t turn. Quarter-turn shutoffvalves don’t have a packing nut. Ifthis type leaks around the stem,you’ll have to replace it.

TIGHTEN THE PACKING NUT TO STOP THE LEAKPlace one wrench on the valve body anda second wrench on the packing nut.Then turn the packing nut clockwise totighten while holdingthe valve in place withthe second wrench. T O O L



PACKING

NUTVALVE

STEM

VALVE

BODY


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Save money: only uses about 9¢ electric an hour; so turn down your thermostat and never be cold again

Amish mantle and miracle invention help home heat bills hit rock bottom

By MARK WOODS

Universal Media Syndicate

Miracle heaters being given away free with orders for real Amish fireplace mantles to announce the invention

that helps slash heat bills, but Amish craftsmen under strain of early Christmas rush force household limit of 2

(UMS) Everyone hates high heat bills. But we’re all sick and tired of simply turning down the thermo-stat and then being cold.

Well now, the popular HEAT SURGE® miracle heaters are actually being given away free to the gen-eral public for the next 7 days starting at precisely 8:00 a.m. today.

The only thing readers have to do is call the Nation-al Distribution Hotline before the 7-day deadline with their order for the handmade Amish Fireplace Mantle. Everyone who does is instantly being awarded the miracle heater absolute-ly free.

This is all happening to announce the HEAT SURGE Roll-n-Glow® Fire-place which actually rolls from room-to-room so you can turn down your thermo-stat and take the heat with you anywhere. That way, everyone who gets them first can immediately start saving on their heat bills.

Just in time for winter weather, portable Amish encased fireplaces are being delivered directly to the doors of all those who beat the deadline.

These remarkable fire-places with patent pend-ing technology are being called a miracle because they have a stunning fire-less f lame that gives you the peaceful f licker of a real f ire but without any flames, fumes, smells, ashes or mess. Everyone is getting them because they require no chimney and no vent. You just plug them in.

The Fireless Flame® looks so real it amazes everybody

N GENUINE AMISH MANTLES MADE IN THE HEARTLAND OF OHIO: Everyone wants to save money on heat bills this winter, so entire Amish communities are working from the crack of dawn to build these real wood fireplace mantles to last forever. The Light Honey Oak mantle is a real steal at just two hundred ninety-eight dollars because all those who beat the order deadline by calling the National Hotline at 1-866-815-7110 to order the fireplace mantles are actually getting the hi-tech imported Fireless Flame HEAT SURGE miracle heaters for free.

because it has no real fire. So what’s the catch? Well, soft spoken Amish crafts-men who take their time hand building the mantles have a process that forces a strict household limit of 2 to keep up with orders.

“We can barely keep up ever since we started giv-ing heaters away free. With winter just around the cor-ner, everyone’s trying to get them. Amish craftsmen are working their fingers to the bone to be sure everyone gets their delivery in time for Christmas,” confirms Frederick Miller, National Shipping Director.

“These portable Roll-n-Glow Fireplaces are the lat-est home decorating sen-sation. They actually give

you a beautifully redecorat-ed room while they quick-ly heat from wall to wall. It’s the best way to dress up every room, stay really warm and slash your heat bills all at the same time,” says Josette Holland, Home Makeover Expert.

And here’s the best part. Readers who beat the 7-day order deadline are get-ting their imported hi-tech miracle heaters free when encased in the Amish built real wood fireplace man-tles. The mantles are being handmade right here in Ohio in the heartland of Amish country where they are beautifully hand-rubbed, stained and varnished.

You just can’t find cus-tom made Amish man-

tles like this in the nation-al chain stores. That makes the Light Honey Oak man-tle a real steal for just two hundred ninety-eight dol-lars since the entire cost of the miracle heater is free.

This free giveaway is the best way to slash heating bills and stay warm this fall and winter. The HEAT SURGE Roll-n-Glow Fire-place gives you zone heat-ing and all the beauty and warmth of a built-in fire-place but rolls from room-to-room so it can also save you a ton of money on heat-ing bills.

Even people in California and Florida are flocking to get them so they may never have to turn on their furnace all winter. And since it uses

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

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How It Works: The HEAT SURGE miracle heater is a work of engineering genius from the China coast so ad-vanced, you simply plug it into any standard outlet. It uses only about 9¢ of electric an hour on the standard setting. Yet, it produces up to an amazing 4,606 BTU’s on the high set-ting. So watch out, a powerful on board hi-tech heat turbine silently forces hot air out into the room from the vent so you feel the bone soothing heat in-stantly. It even has certifi ca-tion of Underwriters Laborato-ries coveted UL listing. It also comes with a limited full year replacement or money back warranty less shipping plus a 30-Day Satisfaction Guaran-tee. OH and FL resident trans-actions require the remittance of applicable sales tax. Sorry no shipments to MA and CA residents.

Hot air only comes out

of the top vent

TThhee hhii-ttecch ssileennt hheaaat tturrbbbinnee taakkeeess inn cooolld airrr

LISTED: E322174

®

® How to get 2 free heatersThe National Toll Free Hotlines are now open. All those who beat the 7-day order

deadline to cover the cost of the Amish made Fireplace Mantle and shipping get the HEAT SURGE miracle heater free.

A strict limit of 2 per household has been imposed. Since some home woodwork-ers want to build their own mantle piece, they are letting people get the import-ed miracle heater alone for just $249. Or, with orders for the Amish made mantle you get the miracle heater free.

Use the map below to locate the weather zone you live in and call the Hotline num-ber for your zone.

Claim Code: FP12423

©2010 HEAT SURGE, LLC P5369A OF12350R-1

N�ON THEIR WAY: Early Christmas orders have turned country roads into pipelines to the big city delivery system. Everybody wants a fi replace that comes fully assem-bled with a handmade Amish mantle in Light Honey Oak or Manor Cherry fi nish and gets delivered by truck right to your door. All you do is plug it in.

EVERYONE LIVING IN THE

Frigid Zone: 1START CALLING AT

8:00 A.M. TODAY

1-866-815-7110


Cold Zone: 2START CALLING AT

8:30 A.M. TODAY

1-866-815-7112


Frost Zone: 3START CALLING AT

9:00 A.M. TODAY

1-866-815-7113

Frost Zone: 3

Frigid Zone: 1

Cold Zone: 2

only about 9 cents of electric an hour on the standard set-ting, the potential savings are absolutely incredible.

“We are making sure no one gets left out, but you better hurry because entire communities of Amish craftsmen are straining to keep up with demands. For now, we are staying out of the large national retail

stores in order to let read-ers have two per house-hold just as long as they call before the deadline,” con-firms Miller.

It’s a really smart deci-sion to get two right now because for only the next 7 days you get both mira-cle heaters free. That’s like putting fi ve hundred bucks right in your pocket and you

can save even more mon-ey on your monthly heating bills.

“Everyone’s calling to get one but those who are get-ting their Christmas shop-ping done early are sur-prising the whole family by getting two. So when lines are busy keep trying or log onto amishfireplaces.com. We promise to get to every

call. Then we can have a delivery truck out to your door right away with your beautiful Heat Surge Roll-n-Glow Fireplace,” Miller said.

“You’ll instantly feel bone soothing heat in any room. You will never have to be cold again,” he said. N

On the worldwide web:

www.amishfireplaces.com

A D V E R T I S E M E N T

FOR HEAT SURGE, LLC. 8000 FREEDOM AVE. N CANTON, OH 44720

N FREE: Get this $249 miracle heater free. It is being given away free to all who beat the 7-day order deadline for your choice of the Light Honey Oak or Manor Cherry finish Amish Mantles. The free heater comes already encased.

N SAVES ON BILLS: Every-one can get low bills and stay warm and cozy. The Roll-n-Glow Fireplace saves a ton of money and makes your front room look like a million bucks.

N EASILY ROLLS ANYWHERE: This is the portable Roll-n-Glow® Fireplace that easi-ly rolls from bedroom to liv-ing room to keep you warm. No vents, no chimney and no tools. Just plug it in.

N SAFE FLAME: The Fireless Flame looks so real it fools everyone but there is no real fire. That makes the flame window safe to the touch under the watchful eye of a parent. It’s where the kids will play and the cat and dog will sleep.

Rolls anywhere to throw an instant heat wave with no chimney, no vents, no wood and no smoke

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http://amishfireplaces.com

http://www.amishfireplaces.com

Favorite tools of veteranwoodworkersAn offcut’s throw from our shop is the

office and shop of American Woodworker

magazine. I know the editors there, and

believe me, they’ve been around the

woodworking block a time or two.

Recently, I asked the guys to tell me

about their favorite tools. Here’s what

they had to say.

A 4-1/2-in. grinder for fine woodworkingMy first woodworking projects as a kidinvolved a lot of carving and choppingwith axes, spoke shaves and big chis-els. I eventually learned the finer sideof precision furniture building, but forthe sheer pleasure of working wood,nothing compares to sculpting andshaping wood by eye and feel.

I discovered early on that a 4-1/2-in.disc grinder is perfect for shaping gentlycurved projects. Equipped with a 24- to36-grit sanding disc, the grinder isaggressive enough for most of my proj-ects. You can get a grinder for about $40,but spend more if you plan to use it alot. It’ll last longer and be more comfort-able to handle. I do final sculpting with100- to 120-grit, which also leaves a sur-face smooth enough to finish-sand witha random orbital sander. This Windsorchair seat took about an hour to carvewith the grinder.

Randy Johnson

Continued on p. 90

SHOPRAT

by Travis [email protected]

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MEET A PRORandy Johnson

Randy owned a cabinet/furniture shop for 20 yearsbefore trading his Unisawfor a computer, eventuallybecoming the chief editorof American Woodworker.His other passions are sailing and making goatcheese with his kids.

Randy recently purchased Milwaukee’s new 6130-33 4-1/2-in. disc grinder for $60. Its compact size and light weight make it easy to maneuver.


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T O O LI S S U E

n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 0

90

Caliper for thecommon manSlide calipers are typicallygraduated in decimals.That’s perfect for engineer-ing, but my old-school brainis wired for fractions, so con-verting measurements is always astruggle. That’s why I’ve latched onto a fractional caliper, which reads infractions instead of decimals.

The dial is clearly marked in 1/64-in. increments, and finer meas-urements are possible as well. Onecomplete revolution equals 1 in.(Digital fractional calipers are alsoavailable.) A thumbscrew operates themechanism. Separate jaws allow youto measure both inside and outsidedimensions. A plunge bar extendsfrom the bottom to measure depths.By the way, this caliper reads in deci-mals, too, for measuring such thingsas paper-thin shims and fine veneers.

I bought this Oshlun 6-in. caliper(No. 36575) for $44 from RocklerWoodworking (rockler.com).

Tim Johnson

MEET A PROTim Johnson

Tim has spent 25 yearsrestoring antique furni-ture and building custompieces. Harvest tablesare a specialty—he’s builtmore than 50 of them.Tim cofounded the 4thStreet Guild, a coopera-tive woodworking shop.

This little gem firmly holds chisels up to 1-1/2 in. wideand plane irons up to 2-3/4 in. wide. The guide isadjustable, so you can choose virtually any bevelangle, and it’s precise enough to set micro bevels.

A slide caliper is Tim’s favorite tool for accuratelymeasuring board thicknesses, inside widths of mitersand depths of stopped holes.

Keep chisels sharp for $12When I started out in woodworking 30years ago, sharpening chisels and planeirons used to take forever. I had troubleholding the tool at a consistent angle asI moved it back and forth on the stone.Sharp edges eluded me until an old saltturned me on to a $12 honing guide.

Once the tool is locked in the guide,you just move it forward and back onthe stone until the edge is razor sharp.You can get honing guides at any wood-working store or online. The No.60N01.05 shown is $11 at leevalley.com.

Tim Johnson

HONING GUIDE

FRACTIONAL

CALIPER

FOR

OUTSIDE

DIMENSIONS

FOR INSIDE

DIMENSIONS

DEPTH

TONGUE


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* Based on pricing for comparable equipment from ADT and Broadview as of 4/14/2010.

** If all three instances occur simultaneously, the system will maintain power and monitoring capability with the additional purchase of GSM gateway.

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92 November 2010

I love premier hand planes When a top-qualitybench plane is in myhands and I hear theshavings shearingaway, then feel the ultra-smooth surface left behind, I’min shop heaven. I’m connectedwith the wood in a way nopower tool could ever deliver.

Of course, I didn’t figure outhow to use a plane overnight. Ittook a long time to learn how totune the tool, sharpen its bladeand push it the right way. Usinga plane requires skill earned thehard way, but that’s also part ofits appeal. When I pick it up, Ifeel like a pro baseball playergoing up to bat. The crowd ischeering, the bases are loadedand I’m swinging for the upperbleachers.

Tom Caspar

Tom started making furni-ture right out of college ina friend’s farm outbuilding,with no electricity. His firstlove is hand tools. He has a side gig, The UnpluggedWorkshop, instructingwannabe hand-tool users.

MEET A PROTom Caspar

My favorite bench plane is my No. 4-1/2 smooth plane from lie-nielsen.com. At $325, it’s near the top of the food chain.

BENCH

PLANE

Statement of ownership, management, and circulationStatement required by the Act of August 12, 1970, Section3685, Title 39, United States Code, showing the ownership,management and circulation of THE FAMILY HANDYMAN(USPS 515-930) published monthly (except bimonthly inDecember/January and July/August) 10 times a year, at 2915Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121, as filed onSept. 30, 2010. Annual subscription price: $24.

The names and addresses of the publisher, editor and manag-ing editor are: Publisher, Lora Gier, 750 Third Ave., NewYork, NY 10017; Editor, Ken Collier, 2915 Commers Drive,Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121; Managing Editor, TravisLarson; 2915 Commers Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 55121.

The owner is Home Services, Inc., Reader’s Digest Road,Pleasantville, NY 10570.

Known bond holder: RD Publications Inc., Reader’s DigestRoad, Pleasantville, NY 10570.

The Family Handyman

Issue date for circulation data: October 2010

Average number of copies of each issue during preceding 12months, and of the single issue published nearest to filing date,respectively, are as follows:

Average Single Issue

Total number of copies printed (net press run)

1,289,658 1,280,470

Mail subscriptions

1,053,641 1,057,726

Paid distribution—sales through dealers and carriers, streetvendors and counter sales

62,394 58,057

Total paid distribution1,116,235 1,115,783

Free or nominal-rate distribution

59,937 44,598

Total distribution

1,176,172 1,160,381

Copies not distributed

113,486 120,089

Total1,289,658 1,280,470

Percent paid and/or requested circulation

95% 96%

I certify that the statements made by me above are correct andcomplete.Jim Woods, VP Planning, Consumer Marketing


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Time is running out. Geological experts predict theworld’s supply of tantalizing tanzanite will disappear in

a matter of just a few years. Maybe sooner. High-end retailersare raising prices on this rare stone. And gem dealers are ina mad scramble to secure their claim before it’s too late. Let them scramble.

Our buyer recently secured a huge cache of beautiful raretanzanite, the precious stone loved for its vivid violet-bluecolor. Today you can own over 1 carat of this rare stone(1,000 times rarer than diamonds) in our spectacular Tanzanite Cluster Ring with a suggested retail of $795

for only $95. Want to learn how to getthis magnificent ring for Better ThanFree…read on.

Order the exclusive Tanzanite ClusterRing (1 1/5 ctw) for $95 and we’ll give youa $100 Stauer Gift Coupon. That’s right.You pay $95 and you get the TanzaniteRing AND $100 toward your next Stauer purchase. This is our impossibleBetter Than FREE offer.

It started with a lightning bolt. One strikeset the African plains on fire and uncovereda secret that was buried for more than 585million years. Tanzanite naturally occurs inonly one place on Earth: Tanzania’s remoteMerelani Hills, in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro.

World’s most endangered gem. Top-qualitytanzanites can often fetch higher prices thandiamonds. But, once the last purple gem ispulled from that remote spot beneath Kilimanjaro, that’s it. No more tanzanite.

Reserve your piece of gem history. If you go online right now,you’ll find one of the largest retailers selling tanzanite ringsfor well over $2,000 each. Ridiculous. Instead, you can secureyour own piece of limited-edition tanzanite history at theright price.

Better Than FREE and Guaranteed. Our Better ThanFREE offer is so consumer friendly that we have earned an A+ Rating with the Better Business Bureau. But, why a $100Gift Coupon with your $95 purchase? It’s simple. We wantyou to come back to Stauer for all of your jewelry andwatch purchases. If you are not 100% delighted with yourring, send it back within 30 days for a full refund of thepurchase price. Just remember that the odds of finding thisstone at this price ever again is like waiting for lightning tostrike the same place twice.

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Endangered Gem DisappearingTanzanite is found in only one remote spot on Earth, and it’s 1,000 times rarer than diamonds. Expertssay the mines will soon run dry forever, but today you can own more than 1 carat for Better Than FREE!

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You can pay someone to build just about anything. But you can’t buy thesatisfaction that comes from doing it yourself—the moment when youstand back and say to yourself, “I built that.” That moment is also a goodtime to snap a few photos—and then send them to us.

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When it comes to neatness,kids need all the encourage-ment they can get. To makecleaning up easier for herson, Brittany Heagy created aconvenient space for storagebins—and a lot more: a win-dow seat, bookshelf, wain-scoting and a reading light.

To see how she did it, visitBrittany’s blog: prettyhandy-girl.com.

“I figured that it couldn’t take more than two days to renovate a 2 x 6-ft. closet. It took me three full days—and nights.” Brittany Heagy


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Show off your project Send us your project photos andwe’ll send you a check for $100 if we use them in the magazine.E-mail digital photos to [email protected] put “Brag Board” in thesubject line.

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Safe, stylish railingGlass panel railing looks great, but Sean O’Connorchose it for practical reasons. Glass can block thewind while preserving the view. It’s low mainte-nance, and best of all, kids can’t climb it or get stuckin it. Installation turned out tobe a plus, too. Drilling 72anchor holes into the concretewas no picnic, but the alu-minum rails and glass panelswent together quickly. Thesystem Sean used cost lessthan $60 per lin. ft. For detailson the system, search onlinefor “Sapa rail systems.”

RE

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needed something kid-proof—not a climbing magnet.”Sean O’Connor


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$500!WINREADER

PROJECTSCONTEST

No purchase necessary to enter or win. Purchase will not improve your chances of winning. Contest is open to legal residents age 18 or older of the U.S. and its territories andpossessions. Contest closes at 11:59 p.m. (ET) on Feb. 20, 2011. To enter and for official rules, visit familyhandyman.com/readerprojects. We reserve the right to use any entry in the magazine and pay you $100 for the photo. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED. Contest sponsored by The Reader’s Digest Association, Inc., publisher of The Family Handyman.

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Have you created a guys’ gathering place? Whetherit’s a game room, a home theater, your workshop ornone of the above, we want to see your photos. Ifwe choose your project as the contest winner,we’ll send you $500. To enter, go to thefamily-handyman.com/myproject.

Dan’s man roomDan Laffin must be a smooth negotiator. When heand his wife, Nicolle, bought their home, Dan gotNicolle to grant him “complete autonomy” overthe garage. And here’s what complete autonomylooks like: a full bar that Dan built himself, com-plete with cold Miller on tap. The “man room”also has a dartboard, wall-to-wall carpet and abig screen for watching football.

Mark’s doghouseFor Mark Hulbert, getting sent to the doghouse is agood thing. Concealed in the attic of his garage, the“doghouse” is more than 600 sq. ft. of guy spaceequipped with all kinds of toys: a pool table, a pokermachine, even a professional-grade karaoke system.A gas fireplace with a blower keeps it toasty even onthe coldest winter days.

Dan Laffin

The guy hangout

Mark Hulbert

“It’s a great place to watch thegame or shoot pool. The onlyproblem is that my teenagersare taking it over.”

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“A big bar costs a smallfortune. So I built one forabout $800. Worth everypenny.”



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THE FAMILY HANDYMAN NOVEMBER 2010 99

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Our thanks go to Jeb Albro, Geneva, NY, for this idea.

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The $200.89 lightbulbOne night, our old hanging porch lightwent dark, so my husband ran to thehardware store for a replacement bulband came home with a nice $12 amberbulb guaranteed to last for years. Hescrewed it in, flipped the switch...noth-ing. I suggested he try another bulb, but

since the bulb was new, he was con-vinced the problem was with the 60-year-old light fixture. The followingweek he installed a new $185 fixture,screwed in the $12 lightbulb, flippedthe switch...nothing. Then he ran to thestore for a new ($3) switch...still noth-

ing. Fuming, he crawled up into theattic to see if a mouse had chewedthrough the wiring. While he was upthere, I screwed in an 89¢ lightbulb wehad lying around. Voilà! The new $12lightbulb was the problem all along.

Gailynne M. Ferguson

GREATGOOFS

from our [email protected]

®

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No way outI was relocating the shower in a bathroom that wasbuilt over a crawl space. To gain access, I cut a holein the subfloor and slithered down between the joistswith all my materials and tools. The floor would bean easy patch since I was retiling anyway. After Ispent a few hours down there soldering copper pipesand gluing ABS drain lines, the new plumbing setupwas perfect. Then it dawned on me that my beautifulnew plumbing job blocked my way out through theopening. Unless I took the whole thing apart, I wastrapped! I didn’t have the heart to rip it all out, so Iused my cell phone to call my son. I cooled my heelsdown there for an hour until he showed up and cutanother hole in the floor to let me out.

Jim Bianchini

Last winter, my wife wanted to borrowmy pickup to make the three-hourdrive to her mother’s house. She lovesthe four-wheel drive on snowy roads. Itold her I wanted to take my powertools and drywall lift out of the truckbed first. But I couldn’t get the frozentailgate open, which also meant I

Got your own do-it-yourself mistake? Get $100 for your Great Goof! See Contributor Guidelines on p. 6.

couldn’t peel back the tonneau cover toget at the tools. So I left my tools in thetruck and sent my wife on her way.

Once she was on the road, the suncame out and nudged the temperatureabove freezing. It turns out I hadreleased the latch, but it hadn’trelatched. So when everything thawed

out, the tailgate fell open and my toolsslid out the back. My wife didn’t evennotice. But somewhere along the 150miles between my house and my moth-er-in-law’s, there’s part of a drywall lift,a screw gun, a reciprocating saw and afew other hand tools.

Brad Nejedly

Sad to say, a tool giveaway


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The Life Improvement Store™

Made by the GarciasDesigned by IKEA®

Sparky loves cleanup. Now, Lisa doesn’t mind it either. Her new kitchen feels custom designed with integrated appliances and lighting. And she got everything she needed for it in one place. A complete kitchen made exactly how Lisa dreamed it…without laying off her favorite little dishwasher. Dream your very own kitchen at IKEA-USA.com/kitchen

AKURUM kitchen with ÄDEL doors and drawer fronts $5989 as shown Last year’s price $6529 as shown Medium brown stained and clear lacquered solid birch/birch veneer ÄDEL doors/drawer fronts. Requires assembly and installation. *The total price includes cabinets, fronts, interior shelving, drawer and door dampers, hinges, toekicks, legs, visible moldings and panels. Countertops, sinks, faucets, handles and knobs, appliances and lighting are sold separately. See IKEA store or IKEA-USA.com for limited warranty details. Valid in US stores. See IKEA store for country of origin information and 10'×10' kitchen layout details.

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