the valleys between finale and bergeggi

nature

gastro

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ries

tastes

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THE VALLEYS BETWEEN FINALE AND BERGEGGIA stone’s throw from the sea

enjoy a holidayin the greeneryof Liguria’sRiviera delle Palme

Where, howand when

The valleys betweenFinale and Bergeggi

the other riviera

The stretch of the Riviera delle Palme between Finale Ligure and Bergeggiis undoubtedly one of the most beautiful on the whole Ligurian Riviera,but its hinterland is – if possible – even more evocative. This is the OtherRiviera, unique and unexpected. It combines all the best of the region’snatural and historical heritage for the joy of visitors. Just a few bends anda several kilometres along the road behind Finale and Noli will take youto the Manie Plateau. This wild land was created by the geological whimsof the earth and has been preserved intact by the wisdom of those whohave lived here: the prehistoric Ligurians who inhabited its caves; theRomans who crossed it with their roads and stone bridges; and finally thegenerations of peasants who have used it to produce excellent olive oiland fine wine – and all with the deep blue sea right below. Further inland,down towards the Po Valley, are the Bormida Valleys, with their huge,protected forests, feudal castles, wild mushrooms and truffles, colourfulvillages, and more besides…

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Borm

ida

di P

àlla

re V

alle

y

Borm

ida

di M

àlla

re V

alle

yPora Valley

The Manie Plateau

FINALE LIGURE

Bormida di M

illesimo Valley

Noli Spotorno Bergeggi Vado

Voze

and T

osse

The Manie Plateauand the Pora Valley

In prehistoric times this area was a warm, tropical sea.The sea bed formed gradually as the shells and skeletonsof thousands and thousand of calcareous organisms weredeposited. The skeletons and shells eventually becamerock: Finale stone, a pale limestone that was raised highabove sea level during the formation of the Alps.The ancient seafloor now forms the hills, plateau, cavesand rocky cliffs that make the Finale Ligure area sopicturesque and famous. The Manie Plateau and thePora Valley remain a well-preserved and untamed region,despite being so close to the coast. The air here isperfumed by the maquis and the green landscape isdotted with old faming villages surrounded by vineyardsand olive groves. The sheer pale limestone rock facesattract climbers from all over the world and the mildclimate allows them to engage in their sport all yearround, whilst the forests and rocks conceal caves bearingtraces of prehistoric Liguria. It is no exaggeration tosay that this is an absolutely unique corner of the

world, for the Mediterranean coast hasno other spot that can compare with the

Manie Plateau.

A limestone sea

the other riviera

NOLI

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THE HILLS OF NOLI

The two hamlets of Tosse and Vozeare immersed in the maquis thatcovers the hills behind Noli, surrounded byolive groves. The air here is perfumed withthe scent of broom and the strips of landare planted with rows of vines.In Roman times theVia Julia Augustapassed this wayand its traces canstill be seen inthe woods andbetween thehouses.

Voze and Tosse

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sse

Vezzi

Porti

o

Orco

Fegli

no

Calvi

sio

Perti

Gorra

and O

lle

Calic

e Ligu

re

Rialto

A stone’s throwfrom the sea

Voze and Tosse: 210 metresabove sea level, 4 km from theA10 motorway exit (Spotorno)3 km from the sea (Noli)

Vezzi Portio: 220 metres abovesea level, 3 km from the A10motorway exit (Spotorno)6 km from the sea (Noli)

Orco Feglino: 200 metres abovesea level, 1 km from the A10motorway exit (Feglino)7 km from the sea (Finale Ligure)

Calvisio: 130 metres above sealevel, 3 km from the A10motorway exit (Feglino)3 km from the sea (Finale Ligure)

Perti: 145 metres above sea level,3 km from the A10 motorway exit(Finale Ligure), 4 km fromthe sea (Finale Ligure)

Gorra and Olle: 210 metres abovesea level, 1 km from the A10motorway exit (Finale Ligure)4 km from the sea (Finale Ligure)

Calice Ligure: 70 metres abovesea level, 4 km from the A10motorway exit (Finale Ligure)6 km from the sea (Finale Ligure)

Rialto: 370 metres above sealevel, 7 km from the A10motorway exit (Finale Ligure)9 km from the sea (Finale Ligure)

Julius Caesar probably never visited Voze, but he wouldhave found good reasons for stopping here if he had.He could have chosen from the Albergo RistoranteEl Sito (hotel and restaurant) or the Ristorante Lilliputalong the road leading down to Noli from Voze;

the Locanda di Giuda (inn) offering Ligurianspecialities or the Trattoria da Teresa withrooms amidst the old houses of the village;or the Ristorante Belvedere on the Romanroad. The Ristorante Passu du Ventu,on the other hand, is located in apanoramic position at the beginning ofthe road to Vezzi. Good lunches are tobe had at the Ristorante Mea Culpa(although it’s not clear what it has toapologise for!).

Hail Caesar,the inns greet you!

FINALELIGURE

the other riviera Vezzi Portio

Albergo Ristorante El Sitovia la Malfa 2, Voze, tel. 019 748 107

La locanda di Giudastrada Romana 1, Vozetel. 019 748 625

Ristorante Lilliputregione Zuglieno 49, Vozetel. 019 748 009

Ristorante Mea Culpavia Guardia 9, Tosse, tel. 019 745 191

Ristorante Pizzeria Belvederestrada Romana 2, tel. 019 748 902

Ristorante Passu du Ventustrada Romana 10, Vozetelephone Circolo Ricreativo Vozesetel. 349 295 8049, 347 220 6878

Trattoria da Teresa (with rooms)strada Romana 25, Voze, tel. 019 748 065

Six hundred inhabitants scattered amongst smallvillages, clinging to strips of land covered witholive groves, vineyards and maquis. This is VezziPortio, in the wild inland area of Finale Liguria.It is made up of four villages, San Giorgio,San Filippo, Portio and Magnone, where the townhall is located. The hamlets offer views rangingfrom the bell tower of the neighbouring villageto the rocky cliffs much beloved by climbers.History left has many traces here, including thePorta di Spagna (Spanish Gate), a border stationon the edge of the Marquisate of Finale Ligure,which belonged to the Spanish crown in theseventeenth century.

VEZZI PORTIO

The hills of NoliWhere, how and when

The pretty, family-run Osteria dei Funghi (inn),on the road between Magnone and Portio is wellworth a stop for a bite, whilst GiuseppaPiscitello produces excellent honey amongstthe farms of Magnone, which she sells in thelocal shops with the “Pollupice” label.

Vineyards, olive grovesand wooded strips of land

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A couple of tasty addresses

The Manie Plateau and the Pora Valley

Vezzi PortioWhere, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 742 8000www.inforiviera.it/blu/vezzi.cfm

Azienda Agricoladi Giuseppa Piscitello (honey)via Magnone 10tel. 019 742 275

Osteria dei Funghivia Portio 69, tel. 019 742 028

ORCO FEGLINO

The salty sea air mixes with forestscents and lends aroma andflavour to the gourmet delicaciesof Vezzi Portio: Lumassina andBarbarossa wines, olive oil andchestnuts.

Wines with a view

…all feature in the coat of arms of Orco Feglino, a municipality in the Finale Ligure area.It is made up of several hamlets in the upper valley of the River Aquila, with fine viewsover the lonely, unspoilt Cornei Valley. Terraced roofs, a common Mediterranean featurearound Finale Ligure, are common here too. Feglino is situated next to the motorway, withits imposing Church of San Lorenzo and red-roofed houses. Above the motorway is thewhite church of Santa Maria Ausiliatrice, with the nearby Cappella dell’Apparizione (Chapelof the Apparition), whilst the hill that dominates Orco is the site of the ruins of the ancient

castrum Orchae and a tenth-century tower. Not far away is the Romanesque-Gothiccountry Church of San Lorenzino with fifteenth-century frescoes. Boragni is a

country village enclosed by tall fortifications and crossed by a coveredvaulted street. At Christmas the charming old town of Feglino

is enlivened by the living nativity scenestaged by its inhabitants.

A bunch of grapes, a pine tree and a tower…

Orco Feglino

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the other riviera Orco Feglino

The area of Orco Feglino produces Lumassina and Barbarossawines, olive oil and peaches. The trattorias serve ovolimushrooms on vine leaves and peaches in Lumassina wine.

The wild,unspoilt AquilaValley iscrisscrossed withevocative pathsand its rock facesare a magnet forfree climbersfrom all over theworld. The MonteCucco practicewall is veryfamous.

Wine, oil and peaches

You can eat and sleep like a lordaround Orco and Feglino! Feglinois home to the Locanda RistoranteBorgo Antico (inn and restaurant)and the Locanda Ristorante DelRio (inn and restaurant), as wellas Giovanni Bonora’s roominghouse, the Ristorante da Annaand the Ristorante il Portico.The central part of the valley flooralso boasts the AgriturismoAspettando il Sole (guest farm),offering food and accommodation,horse riding, garden and poultryproduce, and the AgriturismoDa Beppe e Lucia (guest farm),with its soft beds, tasty meals,oil and wine.The roads that climb up to Orcolead to the Ristorante con camereLa Sosta (restaurant with rooms)in Bonomi, and the RistorantePizzeria il Rifugio at the MonteCucco practice wall. Visitors to Orcocan stay at the B&B di NicolettaPozzi and the B&B Cà Bassi,towards Boragni, next to theAzienda Agrituristica Cà Magli(guest farm).

Useful addressesRockypaths

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Orco FeglinoWhere, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 699 010www.inforiviera.it/blu/orco.cfm

Affittacamere Giovanni Bonoravia Aquila 2, Feglinotel. 019 699 107

Agriturismo Aspettando il Solevia Concezione 3, Feglinotel. 019 699 146

AgriturismoDa Beppe e Luciavia San Giacomo 33Feglinotel. 019 699 318

Azienda AgrituristicaCà Maglivia Boragni 3, tel. 019 699 319

B&B Cà Bassivia Condera 18Boragni-Orco roadtel. 019 699 174, 333 799 7132

B&B Nicoletta Pozzivia Chiesa 1, Orcotel. 019 699 399

Locanda Ristorante Borgo Anticovia San Giacomo 17, Feglinotel. 019 699 4405, 019 699 108

Locanda Ristorante Del Riovia Aquila 6, Feglinotel. 019 699 011

Ristorante con camere La Sostastrada per Orco 1, loc. Bonomitel. 019 699 195

Ristorante da Annavia Cristoforo Colombo 4, Feglinotel. 019 699 040

Ristorante il Porticovia San Rocco 22, Feglinotel. 019 699 207

Ristorante Pizzeria il Rifugiovia San Lorenzinotel. 019 699 311

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The small but concentrated region of deep valleys, sheerrock faces and limestone plateaus that lies immediatelyinland of Finale Ligure is almost unique in Liguria.This lush, solitary landscape, alternating flat and craggystretches, is interrupted here and there by small villagesand crisscrossed by a maze of dirt tracks and pathsthat cry out to be explored. It is the only place inLiguria you can find plant and animal species likeCampanula isophylla, whose bright blue flowers coverthe openings of caves and walls of old houses, andLacerta ocellata, the largest European lizard, whichis green-blue in colour and over 60 cm long.The slopes of the Aquila Valley are home toa monumental Pinus pinea (stone pine),which is at least 200 years old.

the other riviera The hamlets of Finale Ligure

THE HAMLETS OF FINALE LIGURE

Man’s artistic genius has created several splendidbuildings scattered between the hamlets of FinaleLigure’s plateau and valleys: the Romanesque Churchof San Cipriano and the Renaissance Villa Buraggi inCalvisio; the Romanesque Church of San Sebastiano,the Gothic Church of Sant’Eusebio and the RenaissanceCinque Campanili Church in Perti (whose oriental styleis reminiscent of the Portinari Chapel in Milan); theabandoned fifteenth-century Church of San Bartolomeoin Gorra; and the rural stone houses in Olle.

The Manie Plateau:in a world of itsown

Rocks, bridgesand caves

The most famous climbing wallin the Finale Ligure area isundoubtedly the Corno Rock(313 m), next to the Ponte delleFate (Fairy Bridge), the first ofthe five second-century Romanbridges crossing the Ponci Valley(Vallis Pontium) on the Via JuliaAugusta, built by the Romans in13 BC. The Roman road connectsthe Manie Plateau, with itsrosemary hedges, lavender, holm

oaks and juniper bushes,to the wonderfully

scenic Capo Noliheadland (267 m).The karst networkof undergroundstreams has createdmany caves, the

most famous of which are theArma delle Manie (Manie Cave),which was inhabited inprehistoric times, and the Cavernadelle Fate (Fairy Cave). The pathsof this small, untamed region arewell suited to exploration onhorseback. Visitors can contactthe Società Ippica Finalese(riding club), which also runs ariding school.

Churches and squares inCalvisio, Perti, Gorra and Olle

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There is a wide choice of restaurants and inns ready tosatisfy the appetites of hungry visitors. The road up toLe Manie is lined by the Trattoria del Falco, the AnticaTrattoria Le Terrazze sul Mare, theRistorante la Gioiosa and the RistoranteRosita. In the woods nearby is theRistorante Acapulco; the brightly colouredRistorante Altopiano also offers roomsfor overnight stays. Le Manie is also hometo the Trattoria Gambero Verde in an old church alongthe road; the Osteria della Briga (inn) in a spotfrequented by hang-gliding enthusiasts; the TrattoriaFerrin, a brasserie in the centre of the plateau; theOsteria del Bosco (inn) near the Church of San Giacomoalong the dirt track leading to the Arma Cave; andfinally the Osteria La Grotta dell’Arma (inn), whichalso produces honey. Bricco, between the hamlets ofIsasco and Chien, boasts the Trattoria Beppe, whichalso offers rooms. In Calvisio there is the RistoranteInegaggie in the village square, whilst the road toVezzi Portio, beyond the junction for Verzi, is home tothe Ristorante Girasole, the B&B Ristorante PizzeriaLa Fenice and the Pizzeria Cornei. The Trattoria Cuccois situated amidst the olive groves, maritime pines andhouses of San Bernardino and boasts a magnificentview stretching as far as the coast and the sea. TheAntica Osteria con cucina (inn and restaurant) andthe Antica Osteria del Castel Gavone (inn) are situatedright in the heart of the mystical village of Perti, whilstthe business district on the valley floor is home to theRistoro La Francesina (restaurant) and the RistorantePizzeria Bastian Contrario, offering grilled meats.The Osteria del Tempo Perso (inn) invites travellersto pause on the road leading up to Gorra, which alsoboasts the Osteria dell’Agorà (inn), the Ristorante auGumbu and the Ristorante Cà del Moro, on the formerMelogno highway.

Eating in the Finale Ligure area

Agricultural produce from theFinale Ligure area can be

purchased from PaoloGranero (whoproduces exquisitecapers, oil and wine at

Le Manie), the AziendaAgricola Terre Rosse (farm),also on the plateau, whichis renowned for itsVermentino, and the AziendaAgricola Gli Aromi di Isasco,which produces oil and wine.Perti offers honey fromApicoltura Fernandez(beekeepers) and wine fromthe Cantina Paganini(winery), whilst Gorra hasthe Frantoio da Olive Folco(olive oil mill), which sellsoil and olives.

Produce from theFinale Ligure area

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the other riviera The hamlets of Finale Ligure

The wild, unspoilt setting of the area behindFinale Ligure is ideal for guest farm holidays.Le Manie is home to the Agriturismo LaRealidad on the road up to the plateau, which

offers food and accommodation, and theAgriturismo La Selva amidst the olive groves

overlooking Varigotti. Verzi boasts the AgriturismoLa Fontana with rooms and the Agriturismo Barillaro

offering food and accommodation, as well as the chanceto buy PDO olive oil, wine and fruit, whilst the edge of themunicipal territory (along the main road leading to Feglino)is the site of the Agriturismo a Cà di Alice, which offersrooms and meals and sells barnyard animals and vegetables.Perti is home to the Agriturismo Rocca di Perti, whichserves meals and sells oil and wine, and the AgriturismoVilla Piuma housed in an eighteenth-century country housethat offers accommodation and country cooking. Both areexcellent bases for climbing the Perti Rock. The Agriturismoai Cinque Campanili is situated close to the magnificentchurch of the same name and offers accommodation, localcuisine and oil. Gorra offers the Agriturismo da Mario inthe Valgelata, with its wild cacti, exotic animals and cuisinefeaturing wild boar and vegetable fritters.

…are small clusters of ruralhouses with centuries ofhistory, or modern residentialcomplexes for summer holidays.They are immersed in thecountryside of the plateau orexposed on the panoramichillsides and are calledSan Bernardino, Monticello,Isasco, Monte and Sella.

The road up to Le Manieis home to the AlbergoLa Gioiosa (hotel) and theAlbergo Rosita (hotel),whilst the woods of theplateau conceal theCampeggio Terre Rosse,Campeggio San Martino andCampeggio La Forestacampsites. The road toIsasco, on the other hand,has the B&B di Pia LambertiGuglielmone. Calvisio is hometo Eurocamping (campsite),whilst Perti boasts theVillaggio VerdeazzurroCamping (campsite) withcaravan area.

Sleeping and perhapseven dreaming

The other hamletsof Finale Ligure’shinterland…

Hooray for guest farms!

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Agriturismo a Cà di Aliceloc. Sanguineo 59tel. 019 680 160, 349 557 6285Agriturismo ai Cinque Campanilicontrada Bolla 26, Perti, tel. 019 680 482Agriturismo Barillaroloc. Verzi, tel. 019 603 111Agriturismo da Marioloc. Valgelata 13, Gorra, tel. 019 696 322Agriturismo La Fontanaloc. Verzi 18, tel. 019 603 330Agriturismo La Realidadvia Manie 53, tel. 019 600 455Agriturismo La Selvaloc. Selva, tel. 019 698 8320Agriturismo Rocca di Pertiloc. Chiazzari, Pertitel. 019 695 513, 389 816 6170Agriturismo Villa Piumavia Cappelletta Nuova 8, Pertitel. 019 687 030Albergo Ristorante La Gioiosavia Manie 53, tel. 019 601306Albergo Ristorante Rositavia Manie 67, tel. 019 602 437Antica Osteria con cucinapiazza Martiri di Perti 4, tel. 019 690 609Antica Osteria del Castel Gavonevia Chiesa di Perti 4, tel. 019 694 320Antica Trattoria Le Terrazze sul Marevia Manie 65, tel. 019 601 243Apicoltura Fernandez (honey)via Calice 186, Perti, tel. 019 687 042Azienda Agricola Gli Aromiloc. Isasco 3, tel. 019 698 221Azienda Agricola Paganiniloc. Chiazzari 15, Perti, Finale Liguretel. 019 681 6208, 335 211 931Azienda Agricola Terre Rosse(vermentino) loc. ManieB&B Pia Lamberti Guglielmonestrada di Isasco 40, tel. 019 698 8437B&B Ristorante Pizzeria La Fenicevia Calvisio 131, tel. 019 604 9072Camping La Forestaloc. Manie, tel. 019 698 103Camping San Martinoloc. Manie, tel. 019 698 250

The hamlets of Finale LigureWhere, how and when

Camping Terre Rosse & Trattoria Ferrinloc. Manie 40, tel. 019 698 473Eurocampingvia Calvisio 37, Calvisio, tel. 019 601 240Frantoio da olive Folcopiazza Annunziata 10, Gorra, tel. 019 696 025Osteria del Bosco, loc. Manie, tel. 019 698 197Osteria della Briga, loc. Manie, tel. 019 698 579Osteria dell’Agoràp.zza San Bartolomeo 13, Gorra, tel. 019 696 263Osteria del Tempo Persovia Provinciale 7, Gorra, tel. 019 696 093Osteria La Grotta dell’Armaloc. Manie, tel. 019 698 457Pizzeria Corneivia Calvisio 137, tel. 019 699 254Ristorante Acapulcoloc. Selva, tel. 019 698 8240Ristorante Altopiano with roomsloc. Manie 12, tel. 019 698 080Ristorante au Gumbupiazza Annunziata 5, Gorra, tel. 019 696 025Ristorante Cà del Morovia per Calizzano 34, Gorra, tel. 019 696 001Ristorante il Girasolevia Calvisio 111, tel. 019 600 202Ristorante Inegaggiepiazza Inegaggie 5, Calvisio, tel. 019 600 820Ristorante Pizzeria Bastian Contrario(grilled meat) via Calice, tel. 019 692 750Ristoro La Francesinavia Maestri del lavoro d’Italia 13, Pertitel. 347 402 1601Società Ippica Finalesevia Calice, Perti, tel. 019 695 640Trattoria Beppe with roomsloc. Bricco, Manie, tel. 019 691 622

Trattoria Cuccoloc. San Bernardino 9, tel. 019 691 267Trattoria del Falcovia Manie 53, tel. 019 601 311Trattoria Gambero Verdeloc. Manie 2, tel. 019 698 483Vignaiolo Paolo Granero (wine, oil and capers)via Manie 47, tel. 019 600 658Villaggio Verdeazzurro Campingvia Calice 15b, with caravan area 13

Finalborgo

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FINAL BORGO

Final Borgo is not a municipality, or evenan outlying administrative district of one.It merges with the villages of Finalpia andFinal Marina to form the almost inseparablecommune of Finale Ligure. It features in thisguide to the “Other Riviera”, dedicated tothe villages of the inland region, becauseit is an ancient settlement with a richhistorical, artistic and architectural heritage.But it has no coastline, despite beingpractically a stone’s throw from the sea.It appears on the Peutingerian Table (mapof the Roman Empire) as Pollupice, and wasoriginally a vicus ad fines (border village) ofthe Roman town of Vada Sabatia. During theearly Middle Ages it lay on the border betweenthe Marca Aleramica and the Marca Arduinica.In the thirteenth century it passed underthe control of the Del Carretto Marquises,imperial landowners connected with theSforza family of Milan. The ensuing centuriesbrought great splendour to the Marquisateof Finale Ligure. In 1598 it was sold to theSpanish crown and came under Genoese rulein 1748. The walls, palaces, churches, PortaReale gate with the octagonal bell tower ofSan Biagio, and Porta Testa gate all dateback to this period. Local history is preservedin the Civic Museum, housed in the Conventof Santa Caterina. The paved pedestrianstreets of the village are lined withcraftsmen’s workshops, art galleries, bakeriesselling farmhouse bread, trattorias and bars.

An authentic capital

Half-closed gates offer glimpses of largerural courtyards and gardens with lemontrees, which would have delighted the Italianpoet Eugenio Montale. High above the wallsand roofs of the village is Castel San Giovanni,a blend of medieval and Spanish architecture,which marks the start of the Strada Berretta,the road that connected Finale Ligure to theSpanish possessions in the Milan area from1666. Further up are the ruins of CastelGavone, a Lombard-style military andresidential building.Today Final Borgo belongs to the “MostBeautiful Villages in Italy” Club.


Visitors can eat and rest totheir hearts’ content both insideand outside the walls of FinalBorgo. The Albergo RistoranteVecchie Mura (hotel and restaurant) is situatedoutside the walls, near the late-Gothic bell towerof San Biagio, whilst the Trattoria au Quarté,is located along the River Aquila. The medievalrectangle of the village features the elegantRistorante ai Torchi and the Locanda di Lò(inn), near the Convent of Santa Caterina.A stroll around the old lanes and fine squareswill reveal the Ligurian flavours of the TrattoriaInvexendu, the first courses of the SpaghetteriaSotto il Santo, the flower-decked Ristorantedell’Orso Poeta, the mulled wine and Serranoham of the Tia Pepa restaurant and the littleOsteria ai Cuattru Canti (inn). The B&B Lettial Castello offers accommodation overlookinga pretty and colourful little square. Finally, thebeginning of the road up to the Melogno Hill ismarked by Settanta, a beerhouse with restaurant,which also serves cassëula (a Lombarddish of pork and cabbage).

The hospitalityof the Marquises

the other riviera Finalborgo

Town Hall tel. 019 689 011www.inforiviera.it/blu/finale.cfm

Albergo Ristorante Vecchie Muravia delle Mura 3, tel. 019 691 268

B&B Letti al Castellopiazzetta Meloria 4/1

tel. 019 695 056, 347 331 6280347 780 1622

Osteria ai Cuattru Cantivia Torcelli 2 tel. 019 680 540

Ristorante ai Torchivia dell’Annunziata 12

tel. 019 690 531

Ristorante l’Orso Poetapiazza Aicardi 21tel. 019 690 445

Final BorgoWhere, how and when

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Settanta (pub with restaurant)via per Gorra 10, tel. 019 695 683SpaghetteriaSotto il Santopiazza Garibaldi 7tel. 019 680 087Tia Pepavia G. Nicotera 25tel. 019 680 087Trattoria au Quartévia Fiume 38tel. 019 690 300Trattoria Invexendupiazza Tribunale 1tel. 019 690 475Trattoria la Locanda di Lòpiazza Santa Caterina 13tel. 019 693 202

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The Manie Plateau and the Pora ValleyCalice Ligure

CALICE LIGURE

The 1500 inhabitants ofCalice Ligure breathe thecool country air, despite

being just a stone’s throw from the sea at FinaleLigure. Calice is a peaceful village graced by elegantRenaissance and Baroque churches and narrow streets andsquares lined with colourful, decorated palaces. It overlooksthe Riviera and backs onto the woods of the Pora Valleythat run from the maquis of the village of Eze to the pinegroves of the hamlet of Carbuta, the site of a 220-year-oldmonumental holm oak. Beyond Carbuta the road climbs uptowards the solitary Chapel of San Rocco in the woods, andthen on to the beech woods of Pian dei Corsi, with theirwide views, soaring birds of prey and the revolving turbinesof a wind farm.


Calice was the home of thepainter Emilio Scanavino,who opened his home tomany twentieth-centuryartists, transforming thevillage into a miniatureart capital. The “RemoPastori” Civic Collectionof Contemporary Artis on display at the Casadel Console museum.

Painting andcontemporary art

Calice’s ravioli are delicious with Lumassina and Barbarossa, the excellent local wines. Thecentre of the town features the elegant Trattoria Piemontese with rooms, which servessnails and fish, whilst the colourful old alleys conceal the RistoranteSciamadda, the Osteria il Caruggio (inn) and the Bar BraceriaBarabba (bar and brasserie). A pretty, colourful little square ishome to the Ristorante Al Tre, not far from the Piccolo BarPizzeria and the Pizzeria Lo Spigo. The road leading up toCarbuta, a hamlet halfway up the hillside, offers the Osteria duCasè (inn) and, a little higher up, the Ristorante Sotto la Quercia.

the other riviera Calice Ligure

The local cuisine

18


19

Those wishing to stay inCalice can choose from aroom at the TrattoriaPiemontese, theAgriturismo Il Cerro (guestfarm), the B&B Giucalù(amidst the chestnut woodsof Carbuta), the B&B LaRocca in Campogrande, andthe B&B Filosofia dellaQuotidianità in Ramata,which also offers a library,Internet access and ahammam (Turkish bath).The area also offers theB&B la Bibliothèque, onthe road that leads downto Feglino, and the B&B laCosta, towards Rialto.

Calice LigureWhere, how and when

Town Hall tel. 019 65 433www.inforiviera.it/blu/calice.cfm

Agriturismo Il Cerroloc. Cerro, tel. 019 65 524

Bar Braceria Barabbavia Vecchia 59, tel. 019 65 739

B&B Filosofia della Quotidianità(hammam, library, Internet access)loc. Ramata 1, road to Carbuta, tel. 019 65 976348 510 0524, www.filosofiadellaquotidianita.it

B&B Giucalùloc. Cà de Boretti 11, Carbutatel. 019 65 477338 9513663, www.bandb.ligure.it

B&B La Bibliothèqueloc. Prà 1, road between Carbuta aFeglino, tel. 019 65 795, 328 583 3362

B&B La Costaloc. Costa 4, from via Venetel. 019 65 769, 333 599 7512

B&B La Roccaloc. Campogrande 23, tel. 019 65 801

Civica Raccolta d’ArteContemporanea “Remo Pastori”via Roma, tel. 019 65 433 (Town Hall)

Osteria du Casèvia Trincheri, towards Carbutatel. 019 65 639

Osteria il Caruggiovia alla Chiesa 5, tel. 019 65 708

Piccolo Bar Pizzeriapiazza Cesio 12, tel. 019 65 432

Pizzeria Lo Spigovia Emo Trincheri 7, tel. 019 65 336

Ristorante Al Trepiazza IV Novembre 3, tel. 019 65 388

Ristorante Sciamaddavia Vecchia (road leading to the church) 67tel. 019 65 648

Ristorante Sotto la Querciapiazza Paolo Cappa 3, Carbutatel. 019 65 343

Trattoria Piemontese (with rooms)piazza Massa 4, tel. 019 65 463

Accommodationin Calice

Rialto is a smallfarming village at thehead of the Pora Valley. Its 500 inhabitantslive in small groups of houses scattered aroundthe terraced vineyards and olive groves. Thehistory and legends of the village are depictedin colourful murals around the square of theRomanesque Church of San Pietro.

The townof murals

the other riviera Rialto

The small Museo della Civiltà Contadina(Peasant Culture Museum) displays theagricultural tools and illustrates the traditionsof the Upper Pora Valley. The treasures housedin the local churches recall the time whensilver, lead, iron and gold were mined inPurin, towards Melogno Hill.

Peasant culture and silver

RIALTO

20

21


Town Hall tel. 019 65 114www.inforiviera.it/blu/rialto.cfm

Agriturismo Del Pontevia Ferriera 5, tel. 019 65 110

Agriturismo La Cà dell’Alpevia Alpe 6 o 10, tel. 019 688 030

Agriturismo Podere Bricchetto(oil, cheese and fruit)via Melogno 14, tel. and fax 019 65 146, www.poderebricchetto.it

Osteria del Dinvia Pian dei Corsi 1, Melogno, tel. 019 64 184, 347 478 8718, 338 686 1266

Museo della Civiltà Contadinavia Benso 5, loc. Chiesa, tel. 019 65 114 (Town Hall)

Vivaio forestale e Rifugio escursionistico Pian dei CorsiRoad between Carbuta and Melogno, tel. 019 65 498, 019 681 037

RialtoWhere, how and when

Rialto is a hospitable village. Localcuisine can be enjoyed at theAgriturismo Del Ponte (guest farm) ina seventeenth-century building, whichalso sells oil, fruit and vegetables, or atthe Agriturismo La Cà dell’Alpe (guestfarm), which also offers accommodation,horse riding, a swimming pool (forchildren), and “leaf-peeping”(learninghow to identify the leaves of the foresttrees). The Agriturismo PodereBricchetto (guest farm) offersaccommodation and sells oil, fruit andvegetables. The forests of Pian dei Corsiare home to the Vivaio Forestale colRifugio Escursionistico (woodlandnursery and trekking refuge), which isideal for those walking the Alta Via deiMonti Liguri (Upper Ligurian MountainWay) and sells woodland andornamental plants. Finally, thereis the Osteria del Din (inn),almost at Melogno Hill, whichboasts a well-stocked cellar offoreign wines (ranging from Frenchto South African) and a sweetgreen liqueur based on Arquebuse,which is well worth sampling.

Hospitality in Rialto

Ingredients for 4 people:1kg lean boar meat, 3-4 carrots,2 onions, 2 cloves garlic,sprig of rosemary, 1 stick celery,1l red wine, salt and pepper to taste

Marinate the meat and the choppedvegetables for 6-8 hours in the wine.before cooking, setting aside the wine.Sauté the meat in a large pan and brown

the vegetables separately. When thevegetables have browned, liquidise

with the wine and add the sauceto the meat. Season to taste andsimmer, adding a little stock ifnecessary. The sauce should have

a creamy consistency.

A recipe from the Osteria delDin in Rialto: Wild boar in wine

The Bormida di Màllareand Bormida di Pàllare Valleys

The two valleys of the minor Bormida rivers –the Bormida di Màllare and Bormida di Pàllare– remind us of how Italy and Europe must havelooked until the Middle Ages: a succession ofmajestic forests, where gigantic beech trees gaveway to chestnuts and willows and alders grewalong the banks of little lakes. The forests wereinhabited by wild boar, roe deer and hawks anddotted with farming villages, offering hospitality,food and rest to travellers and pilgrims.

Today most of the travellers arriveby car, but theforests,

hospitality, foodand rest remainthe same.

A world of beech trees

BORMIDA

Logically enough, several of thenumerous sources of the RiverBormida are located in themunicipality of Bormida. It is said tobe the greenest in Italy, with almost500 inhabitants in an area of woodedhills crisscrossed by paths and mountainstreams, populated by wild animals andboasting extensive panoramic ridges,typical of the entire valley. CascinaPiagna, above Pian Soprano is a wildlifecentre with an environmental educationworkshop. The ridge facing Osiglia housesa modern wind farm, where the sailsof a gigantic twenty-first-centurywindmill turn in the air, in the bestDon Quixote tradition.

Leaving behind red Palazzo della Ferriera inPian Soprano, where the iron imported fromElba was once worked, visitors encounter theNapoleonic trenches on Mount Ronco di Maglioand the Strada della Regina (Queen’s Road).Its name commemorates Margarita Teresa, thedaughter of Philip IV of Spain, who passedthrough here on the occasion of her marriageto the Austrian Emperor Leopold I in 1666.

Up where the riveris born

History has leftits mark

the other riviera

22

…is the only way to describe fazéni, little potato flatbreads cooked on the stove and drizzled with oil andgarlic. A speciality of these valleys, they are often eatenwith local honey, fruit, mushrooms and chestnuts. Goodeateries in Bormida are the Locanda Ristorante La Casadel Viandante (inn and restaurant) and the Trattoria daPiero, in Piano Sottano, which offers authentic homecooking – light as well as very tasty. Piano Sopranois home to the Trattoria Pizzeria Serena. Visitorscan stay at the recently built B&B Il Bosco Magicoand B&B Pineta di Bormida in Pirotti, the B&B LaCasa di Magalì in Chiesa, or the B&B Frumento in Costa.

Mouthwatering…

23

Màllare

Pàlla

re

Borm

ida


Bormida590 metres above sea level,16 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Altare), 22 km from thesea (Finale Ligure)

Pàllare400 metres above sea level,8 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Altare), 25 km from thesea (Vado Ligure) and 30 kmfrom the sea (Finale Ligure)

Màllare460 metres above sea level,11 km from the A6 motorwayexit (Altare), 28 km from thesea (Vado Ligure) and 31 kmfrom the sea (Finale Ligure)

FINALE LIGURE VADO LIGURE

Town Hall tel. 019 54 718www.inforiviera.it/blu/bormida.cfm

B&B Il Bosco Magicodi Biassiolo Michelaloc. Pirotti n. 20, tel. 019 54 785

B&B La Casa di Magalìdi Cavelli Florianaloc. Chiesa n. 45, tel. 019 54 883

B&B La Pineta di Bormidadi Ambrosini Claudioloc. Pirotti n. 26

… and populated by the 900inhabitants of Pàllare, on anotherhead branch of the River Bormida.Pàllare has Roman origins andbecame an independent communein 1795, just in time to betraversed and sacked byNapoleon’s troops. Five sculptedrocks in the Biestro Forest areknown as “Napoleon’s Stones”and may have been gun pits orthe bases for a bridge. The rockcarvings on the road to Bric dellaCosta, on the other hand, aremuch more ancient.

PÀLLARE

B&B Frumentodi Frumento Giuseppe - loc. Costa n. 9tel. 019 54 615Locanda RistoranteLa Casa del Viandantevia Piano Sottano 27, tel. 019 54 835Trattoria da Pierovia Piano Sottano 40, tel. 019 54 804Trattoria Pizzeria Serenavia Piano Soprano 42tel. 019 54 769

A landscapedominated bychestnut and firtrees…

Is Pàllare a town ofastronomers? Perhaps not,but the sundials paintedon the walls of its ruralhouses are an interestingtestimony of art andscience.

Art andscience

BormidaWhere, how and when

the other riviera Pallare

24

Bormida

Pàllare’s cuisine includes lisotto(a flat bread, cooked on thegriddle and served with variouskinds of sweet and savoury sauces)and, more generally, inlandLigurian and Piedmontese dishes.Its “temples” are the RistoranteLady Blue, the first on the roadfrom Carcare; the Ristorante laTrota d’Oro, in the centre of town;the Osteria San Lazzaro Pescatore(inn), offering themed evenings,on the main road to Bormida; andthe Trattoria Franca, in the smallcountry village of Biestro.A maze of paths runs across thecountryside around Biestro,through a world of woods, valleysand uplands with uncertainboundaries. It is the setting forthe Fattoria degli Antichi Sapori(guest farm), which offers foodand accommodation and issituated between Biestro andCostabella.

Sparse pastures, a fewhamlets and woods: thisis Pàllare, home tobizarre, curious trees, likethe six monumentalbeeches that have grownup together with a hophornbeam on the ruinsof the Notola Farmin the UpperBiestro Valley. Orthe almosthorizontal pinetree in Retanodelle Surie,which has threeyounger pinesgrowing out ofits trunk.

Town Hall tel. 019 590 250www.inforiviera.it/blu/pallare.cfm

Agriturismo la Fattoriadegli antichi saporiloc. Culazzi 3, Biestrotel. 019 590 054

Osteria di San Lazzaro Pescatorevia Fornelli 1, tel. 019 590 313

Ristorante la Trota d’Oropiazza San Marco 11tel. 019 590 051

Ristorante Pizzeria Lady Bluevia Contei 14, tel. 019 590 169

Trattoria Francavia Roma 10, Biestrotel. 019 590 065

Green giants

The local cuisine

25

Bormida di Màllare and di Pàllare Valleys

PàllareWhere, how and when

…are the chief attractions of Màllare,an elegant, colourful village with 1,300inhabitants in the UpperBormida Valley, whichgives its name to oneof the three headbranches of the river.Màllare grew up alongan ancient salt routeand shared the commondestiny of the regionduring the feudal period.

Màllare was once famousthroughout Italy for its wovenchestnut wicker grape baskets.Today only a handful of craftsmen stillmake them. Local gourmet traditions, onthe other hand, are thriving. Codevillaproduces one of the Bormida Valley’sexcellent farmhouse breads, whilst fassiniare disks of potato dough cooked on agriddle and seasoned with garlic poundedwith oil. Other specialities that deserveto be tasted are hazelnut cake and turcett,sweet biscuits with rum filling.

MÀLLARE

The Màllare Forest, not far from thehamlet of Eremita on the slopes ofMount Alto, boasts a splendid beechwood, whose solemn and majestictrees are much admired and respectedby visitors. Four of them are listedas monumental trees in Liguria, andtheir trunks have a circumference ofalmost eight metres, making themone of the greatest wonders of theRiviera delle Palme. They stand in thebeech wood of Benevento, which isreached from Eremita, via the roadthat climbs the Colla di San Giacomo,a hill offering stunning views overthe Finale Ligure area, and descendsthe other side. Another monumentaltree – a 150-year-old arborvitae –stands by the striking ironworks inCodevilla, where the iron importedfrom Elba, unloaded in Finale Ligureand brought here by mules was workedfrom the fifteenth century onwards.Next to the ironworks is an elegantmanor house with a seventeenth-century family chapel.

Traces of Màllare’s past can be seen in thepicturesque narrow streets of its historic district,and the medieval Casa del Conte, the residenceof the Del Carretto family. Several fine countrychurches can be found outside the village, inparticular the Santuario dell’Eremita (Sanctuaryof the Hermit) – built around 1000 AD on apre-existing pagan building – and the twelfth-century Fornelli Abbey, in Lombard Gothic style,which is more easily reached from Pàllare.

Peasant culture andnatural resources…

The Beneventobeeches and thePiantelli Ironworks

History told by churches

Handicrafts andgood cooking

the other riviera Màllare

26

The road that leads from Altare to Màllareoffers the opportunity for lunch at theRistorante K3 in Acque, or at the RistoranteDel Poggio, beyond the winding roads ofMontefreddo. The Pizzeria Mediterraneaand the Ristorante La Lanterna – a memberof the Slow Food movement and featuringa well-stocked wine cellar – are both locatedfurther on, towards the village itself, whilstthe Ristorante all’Eremo is situated nearthe Santuario dell’Eremita.Visitors to Màllare can stay at theAgriturismo Il Frutteto (guest farm) up inthe Eremita Valley, which also boasts a ridingschool with fine horses, a gym and excellentLigurian and Piedmontese cuisine. A littlehigher up is the Ristorante Il Cadotto, andthe Colla di San Giacomo hill beyond.The main road that leads to theupper valley is home to theTrattoria del Pozzo alleFucine and the Trattoriadi Rosa Oliveri(without any signs ordirections) by theevocativeironworks inCodevilla.

Town Hall tel. 019 586 009www.inforiviera.it/blu/mallare.cfm

Abbazia di FornelliPàllare-Bormida main road, visits canbe booked through the Savona branchof the FAI (Italian EnvironmentFoundation), tel. 019 829 895(Luisa Faccio); 339 747 1308(Graziella Ferrari)

Agriturismo Il Fruttetoloc. Cadotto 7, tel. 019 586 375

Ristorante all'Eremoloc. Eremita 2/R, tel. 019 586 402

Ristorante Del Poggiovia Poggio 4, Montefreddotel. 019 586 210

Ristorante K3loc. Acque 1, tel. 019 586 004

Ristorante Il Cadottoloc. Cadotto 2, tel. 019 586 050

Ristorante La Lanternaloc. Panelli 5, tel. 019 586 300

Ristorante Pizzeria Mediterraneaviale Luigi Corsi 40, tel. 019 586 296

Trattoria del Pozzoloc. Fucine 49, tel. 019 586 044

Trattoria Rosa Oliveriloc. Ferriere Codevillatel. 019 586 530 27

A few good addresses

Bormida di Màllare and di Pàllare Valleys

MàllareWhere, how and when

Millesimo is one of the numerous Bormidavalleys that form the backbone of theSavona Apennines, and it has closegeographical and historical links withPiedmont. There is a flavour of Piedmontin the area’s dialects, cookery and sportingtraditions. It blends perfectly with thescent of the Ligurian sea air, which risesfrom the dividing ridge, carried by themarin, the warm, salty wind that gives thewild mushrooms of this valley theirparticular aroma.

The Bormidadi Millesimo Valley

The Riviera witha Piedmontese flavour

the other riviera

FINALE LIGURE

28

The 500 inhabitants of Osiglia, wholive on the shores of a striking, deep,artificial lake, are descended from pre-Roman ancestors. Part of the villagewas flooded when the lake was dug inthe 1930s, but it perhaps the mostbeautiful in Liguria, with an elegantSwiss air that would not look out ofplace amongst the mountains ofLucerne. It hosts international rowingand canoeing events, fishing contestsand a costume regatta aboardhomemade craft. Visitors can stay atthe Campeggio del Lago (campsite)on its shores, stroll around the lakesidepath or cross the Manfrin Bridge thatdivides it in two. The many churchesscattered around its hamlets includethe Magione (“Manor”) of San Giacomoin Ronchi, which belonged to theKnights Templar before being entrustedto the Knights of Malta.

Osigl

ia

Millesim

o

Ceng

io

Rocca

vigna

le

Plodio

Cossè

ria

OSIGLIA

A village and a lake


Osiglia710 metres above sea level15 km from the A6 motorway exit(Millesimo), 25 km from the sea(Finale Ligure)

Millesimo430 metres above sea level1 km from the A6 motorway exit(Millesimo), 30 km from the sea(Vado Ligure)

Cengio400 metres above sea level1 km from the A6 motorway exit(Millesimo), 34 km from the sea(Vado Ligure)

Roccavignale500 metres above sea level3 km from the A6 motorway exit(Millesimo), 32 km from the sea(Vado Ligure)

Plodio500 metres above sea level3 km from the A6 motorway exit(Millesimo), 32 km from the sea(Vado Ligure)

Cossèria510 metres above sea level3 km from the A6 motorway exit(Millesimo), 32 km from the sea(Vado Ligure)

E

29

The Slow Food Presidium for“dried Calizzano and Murialdochestnuts” also dries and

protects the chestnutsof Osiglia, which arestill cookedaccording totraditional recipes:

boiled and flavouredwith fennel seeds or roasted.

Along with these russetautumn treasures, visitors cantaste delicious fresh andcreamy Robiola cheese madefrom sheep’s milk and producedand sold by the AziendaAgricola Mauro Carle (farm)in Ronchi, situated in afarmhouse on a hillock belowthe dam. Accommodation isoffered by the B&B di DanieleCoralli, the AlbergoRistorante La Posta (hoteland restaurant), or the AlbergoRistorante Alpino (hotel andrestaurant) above the lake,in Barberis. The RistorantePizzeria C’era una Volta,also in Barberis, and theRistorante Tavernetta delleTrote in Borgo both serveexcellent food.

Like all the villages in the Bormida Valley, Osiglia issurrounded by thick woods and huge chestnut trees.The extensive network of paths crosses a protectedbeach wood and reaches Melogno Hill, at an altitudeof over 1000 metres. The ridge separating the OsigliaValley from the River Bormida di Pàllare is home to awind farm jointly run by the town councils of Osigliaand Bormida. It is a handsome sight, as well as a cleansource of energy.

Town Hall tel. 019 542 085www.inforiviera.it/blu/osiglia.cfm

Albergo Ristorante Alpinovia Rossi 7, tel. 019 542 090

Albergo Ristorante La Postaloc. Rossi 24, tel. 019 542 080

Azienda Agricola Mauro Carle (sheep’s cheeses)loc. Ronchi 21, tel. 333 72 43 518

B&B Daniele Coralliloc. Barberis 7, tel. 019 512 996

Campeggio del Lagoloc. Barberis, tel. 348 224 1378

Ristorante Pizzeria C’era una Voltaloc. Barberis 27, tel. 019 512 998

Ristorante Tavernetta delle Trotep.zza San Francesco 13, loc. Borgo, tel. 019 512 988

Where’s Don Quixote?Osigliafor gourmets

the other riviera Osiglia

30

OsigliaWhere, how and when

This is not just a figure of speech:Millesimo, a Roman town on theVia Aemilia Scauri with 3,300inhabitants, belongs to the “MostBeautiful Villages in Italy” Club.A stroll around its streets will enablevisitors to see its palaces, castles,bridges and churches.

31

Millesimo’s medievalheritage can still be seenin the ruins of its castle,perched on the hill, andmany details of itshouses, such as massivewooden beams, lowarcades and stoneportals. Enrico II DelCarretto made it themountain capital of hismarquisate, boosting itsgrowth. The ParishChurch of the Annunziataand the watchtower onthe arch of thethirteenth-centuryGaietta Bridge both dateback to the fifteenthcentury.The handsomesixteenth-centurysquare is thesite of theturreted palaceof the DelCarretto Marquises,housing the town hall,and featuring one of thefinest and most completesundials in Northern Italy.

One of the most beautifulvillages in Italy

A castle, abridge, a squareand a sundial…

MILLESIMO

Bormida di Millesimo ValleyMillesimo

The area between Millesimo and theSantuario della Madonna del Deserto(Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Desert)is the starting point for paths thatcross the protected areas of the Tre ReValley and the Bric Tana, part of aregional park with characteristic karstformations, caves and sinkholes.Excavations near the “Tana dell’Orpe”cave have uncovered a rare LigurianBronze-Age settlement, not far from agroup of menhirs with rock engravings.

Millesimo’s two most evocativechurches are also well worth a visit:the medieval Romanesque ParishChurch of Santa Maria Extramuros and,on the road leading to Cengio, theformer Cistercian Monastery of SantoStefano. It was built in 1211 andconverted into a private home at thebeginning of the twentieth century, andhas a tower by Gino Coppedè and severalinteresting frescoes. The round dome ofthe solitary eighteenth-century Santuariodella Madonna del Deserto stands outabove the woods of the upper valley,a few kilometres above the village.

Millesimo’s vicinityto Piedmont canalso be deducedfrom the factthat it holds an

annual fair in honourof white truffles, for the

quality of the local specimensrivals those of Alba. Gourmet specialitiesof the Bormida Valley include raw salami,fazzini (potato bread) and frizze (or grive):a local salami made from pork liver, sausagemeat and juniper berries (a local substitutefor the more expensive pepper). Anotherspeciality of the area is rice and leek tart.Luciana Oliveri’s cheeses can be purchasedin Chiesa, whilst the Cooperativa AllevatoriBestiame CAB (Livestock Farmers’Cooperative) sells its meat at the OK Market.

…and a few churches

Protected natureand prehistory…

GourmetMillesimo

The Museo Mineralogico (MineralMuseum) and the MuseoNapoleonico (Napoleonic Museum)are housed in Villa Scarzella,which was built near the castleduring the twentieth century.

Napoleon andhis museum

the other riviera Millesimo

32

33

Town Hall tel. 019 564 007www.inforiviera.it/blu/millesimo.cfm

Albergo Ristorante La GaiettaPiazza Libertà 98, tel. 333 241 5618

Bar Ristorante Jolly Caffèvia Partigiani 50, tel. 019 565 322

Cooperativa Allevatori Bestiame CAB(production and sale of meat)via Trento e Trieste 139presso OK Market

Luciana Oliveri (cheese)loc. Chiesa 73tel. 019 565 193

Museo Mineralogicoand Museo Napoleonicovia Enrico del Carretto 29tel. 019 564 007 (Town Hall)

Pizzeria da Ninopiazza Libertà 93tel. 019 564 444

Ristorante del DesertoSantuario del Desertotel. 019 564 022

Ristorante Msè Tuttaloc. Monastero 8, tel. 019 564 226

Trattoria Nazionalevia Garibaldi 10tel. 019 565 019, 019 565 527

Visitors to Millesimo can stopfor a bite at the Albergo

Ristorante La Gaietta (hotel andrestaurant), the nearby Pizzeria da

Nino, the Trattoria Nazionale or theRistorante Jolly Caffè. The turretedMonastery of Santo Stefano, on the roadto Cengio, offers lunch in its RistoranteMsè Tutta, whilst those visiting theSantuario del Deserto can try theRistorante del Deserto, immersedin the green landscape.

Some goodaddresses

Bormida di Millesimo Valley

MillesimoWhere, how and when

Cengio owes its name to thecengi, rocky spurs that breakthe profile of the lush,green hills. The original coreof this municipality of 4,000inhabitants is the oldhamlet of Cengio Alto,a Piedmontese-style littlehilltop village clusteredaround a ruined castle.Nearby is the hamlet ofChiesa, which was theoriginal town centre.The modern centre, on theother hand, grew up alongthe river close to the borderwith Piedmont in the earlytwentieth century, followingthe valley’s industrialdevelopment.

CENGIO

Cengio’s chief sportingpassion, like that of theentire Bormida Valley, ispallone elastico (elasticball), a typical sport inwestern Liguria and lowerPiedmont that combinesstrength, elegance anddexterity. It is played onspecial courts or, moreinformally, in the churchsquares. Additional tracesof Piedmont can be foundin the local dialect, whichis also influenced byProvençal, and the cuisine.

“Cinglum”

…although not to escapefrom ferocious beasts orwicked witches. The fieldsand woods around the RiverParasacco are crisscrossed bya fitness trail that enableshealthy physical exercise tobe enjoyed whilst learningthe secrets and discoveringthe wonders of this small butuntamed natural area.

Between Liguriaand Piedmont

Running and jumpingin the woods…

the other riviera Cengio

34

For several years nowCengio has createdan unusualilluminated nativityscene that is verypopular with visitors.

Christmasilluminations

Town Hall tel. 019 554 035www.inforiviera.it/blu/cengio.cfmRistorante Il Cantucciovia Valbormida 37, Geneprotel. 019 555 152Ristorante Pizzeria Pappa e BuffaVia Valbormida 99, Geneprotel. 019 554 317Trattoria Conca d’Oropiazza IV Novembre, Rocchettatel. 019 554 229Trattoria il CastelloPiazza Libertà 19, tel. 019 554 000

Roccavignale is one of the greenest Ligurianmunicipalities in Italy’s greenest province, with75% of its territory consisting of woods andcountryside. Its 700 inhabitants are thedescendents of the medieval vine-dressers andthe prehistoric Ligurians who erected the dolmenin Ghiare. They now live scattered in four hamletsof varying age and scenic appeal, which all enjoythe cool country air, despite being situated justa few minutes’ drive from the sea.

Cengio’s cuisine can be discovered andenjoyed at the Ristorante Il Cantuccioor the Ristorante Pizzeria Pappa e Buffa,near the railway station in Genepro.

Cengio Alto is home to the finely decoratedTrattoria il Castello, whilst the peaceful

hamlet of Rocchetta Cengio has the friendly andwelcoming Trattoria Conca d’Oro, with its wood-burning oven.

ROCCAVIGNALE

The pleasures of the table

Green Liguria

35


CengioWhere, how and when

Roccavignale

Roccavignale

A twenty-yeartradition attractsthousands of peopleto Roccavignale eachChristmas, when thevillage stages a hugeliving nativity scenefor three days,featuring twohundred people.

Town Hall tel. 019 564 103www.inforiviera.it/blu/roccavignale.cfm

Albergo Ristorante da Librinavia delle Scuole 42, Camponuovo, tel. 019 568 202

Albergo Ristorante Orizzontevia Partigiani 22, Pianissolo, tel. 019 568 034(closed until spring 2005)

B&B Ai Piani del Soletel. 339 462 4370, 335 669 3570

The ruined castle of thehamlet of Vazèmola hasbeen partially restoredand is truly imposing.It dates back to thetwelfth and thirteenthcenturies and belongedto the powerful DelCarretto family. Itstands below the villagebecause the fiefdom ofRoccavignale collectedthe transit tolls on thesalt route. It is now thevenue for evocativeopen-air shows and itsimposing bulk can beadmired from themotorway to Turin.

… has mixed Ligurian andPiedmontese origins. It canbe savoured at the elegantcountry-style AlbergoRistorante Orizzonte (hotel andrestaurant) amidst the muraled housesof the scenic village of Pianissolo, and beneath the greathorse chestnut tree of the Albergo Ristorante da Librina(hotel and restaurant) in the small Piedmontese-style villageof Camponuovo, in the woods beyond the castle. The B&BAi Piani del Sole is ideal for an overnight stay.

Baby Jesusis born

They “talk funny” in Roccavignale:the local dialect, especially in Borgodi Strada, has unique characteristics.They developed when Strada’shaberdashers began to make contactwith the Piedmontese markets.It would be well worth learning…

A majesticcastle

A specialdialect

The tasty localcooking…

the other riviera

36

RoccavignaleWhere, how and when

This is the annual event that best describes the agriculturalcharacter of Plodio, a small village with 500 inhabitantson the watershed between the Bormida di Millesimo andthe Bormida di Pàllare Valleys. It has a long history: rockengravings at Bric della Colla testify to man’s presence inthe area since the Bronze Age. Plodio’s destiny subsequentlyfollowed a similar course to that of its neighbours in thevalley, passing between the Del Carretto and Savoy Marquises.The distant peaks of the Alps can be admired from theChapel of Sant’Anna e Santa Lucia on the hill.

Plodio’s woods are ideal for walking as they are crisscrossedby paths shaded by trees and accompanied by the murmurof streams. The thick vegetation between Plodio and theroad between Càrcare and Biestro is the location of theSieizi Spring, which is renowned for the diuretic propertiesof its waters. The surrounding woods offer ceps, ovolimushrooms, and even the odd truffle. Piani is home to thearchery range belonging to the Società di Tiro con l’Arco“Volpe Argentata” (archery club).

PLODIO

The Farmer’s Festival

Sport and good water

37


Cossèria is mentioned in a diploma issuedby Emperor Otto I under the nameCrux Ferrea. The village now has 1,000inhabitants, and boasts a ruined castle andmany other attractions. The ruins of themedieval castle are surrounded by a silent,evocative wood offering wonderful viewsover the Maritime Alps and the Langhe. Thepaths around the village are ideal forhorseback or mountain bike excursions.

Two excellent places to pausefor refreshment in Piani, onthe main road leadingup from Càrcare, arethe Ristorante dalTabacchino, which offerstruffles and grilled meat,and the elegantly decoratedRistorante Locanda dellaFontana on the edge of thevillage.

Town Hall tel. 019 519 649www.inforiviera.it/blu/plodio.cfm

Locanda e Ristorante della Fontanaloc. Piani 26, tel. 019 511 229

Ristorante dal Tabacchinovia Piani 4, tel. 019 518 091

338 492 4751

Soc. Volpe Argentata Tiro con l'Arcocampo ai Piani

information from the Town Hall

Eating and drinkingin Plodio

COSSÈRIA

A ruined castlein the woods

the other riviera Plodio

PlodioWhere, how and when

38

Cossèria is best known for the battle between the younggeneral Napoleon Bonaparte and the Austrian and Savoyarmy, which took place on 13 and 14 April 1796. Followinghis victory at the Battle of Cossèria, Napoleon began hisglorious yet tragic imperial adventure, which ended atWaterloo twenty years later. The battle inspired GiosuèCarducci’s bold verses of the poem entitled La Bicocca diSan Giacomo. In Cossèria the Napoleonic vicissitudes oftwo hundred years ago are commemorated with celebrationsand costume re-enactments, accompanied by shows andconferences.

39

This ancient traditioncomes from the BormidaValley and the hillsof Piedmont.During Easter weekadults and childrengather in the streets tosing an ancient song,sung by farmers manyyears ago. In returnthey all receivean egg.Today the traditionhas taken on a morehumanitarian angle:all proceeds go tointernational charities.

At the turn of the twentieth century Liguria’srich and noble families enthusiastically builtelegant and bizarre buildings (“castles”) in ArtNouveau or eclectic style in both the city andthe country. Quassolo’s Piantelli Castle is oneof the best examples in the region and itsgrounds are an interesting natural area,containing many tall trees and wild animals.

Napoleon’s battle and Napoleonic events

Singingfor eggs

Quassolo Castle

Bormida di Millesimo ValleyCossèria

Wild mushrooms andtruffles take pride ofplace in Cossèria. TheRistorante LaCoccinella, on the mainroad at Case Lidora, isperfect for a meal. It ispublicised by artistic businesscards and run by two dynamicyoung girls. Another good choiceis the Albergo Ristorante al Castello(hotel and restaurant) on the hillside,which organises historical gourmet daysalong the Napoleonic trails. Home-produced meat and charcuterie productsare available from both Eraldo Bergeroin Mussi, and Ercole Pizzorno in Bosi.

Each year the municipality of Cossèria organisesa lively literary competition for Italians livingabroad. It may seem strange, but works ofliterature from every corner of the globe arrivein this little-known small town in Savona’s inlandarea. And it is no coincidence that the parkopposite the Church of San Rocco is home toan unusual sculpture – a monument to women– carved from Carrara marble by the Italian-Argentinian sculptor Noemi Sanguinetti.

What to eat andwhere to stay

Italians worldwide

the other riviera Cossèria

40

Ingredients for 4 people:Gnocchi: 500g potatoes, 1 egg, 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,

2 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese, grated nutmeg, 200g flourSauce: 200g Fontina or Raclette cheese, 20g flour, 20g butter,1/2 glass milk, 100g grated Parmesan cheese

Boil the potatoes in their skins in plenty of water. When they arecooked, peel them when still warm and pass through a ricer.

Heap onto a worktop, form a well and add the egg, nutmeg, Parmesan,oil and flour. Mix all the ingredients together quickly to make a smooth,

soft dough. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 2 cm and use a pastry cutteror glass to cut out 8 cm rounds.

Cook the rounds of dough in plenty of boiling salted water, drain and place in a greasedovenproof dish. Dice the cheese, dust lightly with the flour and melt in a bain-mariewith the butter and milk until it forms a thick cream. Spread the sauce over the gnocchiand sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake in a preheated oven (180°C) for about 10 minutes,until browned. Serve straight from the oven.

41

Town Hall tel. 019 519 608www.inforiviera.it/blu/cosseria.cfm

Albergo Ristorante al CastelloLoc. Bosi 12, tel. 019 519 615digilander.libero.it/mangiedormi

Eraldo Bergero(production and sale of meat)loc. Mussi 218, tel. 019 519 315

Ercole Pizzorno(homemade traditional meat specialities)loc. Bosi 18, tel. 019 519 610

Ristorante La CoccinellaCase Lidora 66, tel. 019 514 2050

A recipe from Cossèria CastleGnocchi “Al Castello”


CossèriaWhere, how and when

Isola di Bergeggi

The valleys betweenFinale and Bergeggi

GENOVASAVONA

A10

the other riviera

ACQUI TERM

ESAVONA

Finale Ligure

Varigotti

Noli

SpotornoBergeggi

Vezzi Portio

Feglino

Orco

Calice Ligure

Osiglia

Bormida

MàllarePàllare

Plodio

Cosseria

Carcare

Rialto

Finalpia

San Bernardino

Monticello

Perti

Borgo

Marina

Eze

Calvi

VeneCarbuta

Monte SelvaLe Manie

Verzi

Isasco

Calvisio

Boragni

Magnone

Gandoglia

Voze

Serra

Tosse

Segno

San GiorgioSan Filippo

Rocca di Perti397

Bric Pianarella333

Monte Cucco357

Rocca di Corno315

Rocca degli Uccelli332

Bric Care482

Bric Berba482

Cima delle Rocche482

Rocca dei Corvi793

Bric Frabosa673

Monte Alto954

Monte Baraccone821

Cime Ronco di Maglio1103

Bric del Gallo882

Piano dei Corsi1028

Monte Camulera1224

Altare

Millesimo

Cengio

RoccavignaleMurialdoCalizzano

CanovaIsallo

Magliolo

Bardino

Olle

Gorra

Colladi San Giacomo

Rocca Carpanea

A6

T. Segno

T. Trexenda

F. Bormida diMallare

S.S.1

T. Aquila

R. Pora

T. Sciusa

Lago di Osiglia

F. Bormida

di Pallare

F. Bormida di Millesimo

PONTINVREASAVONA

IMPE

RIA

PIET

RA L

IGU

REIM

PERI

A FR

ANCI

A

GARE

SSIO

CUNE

O

Colle del Melogno1028

Madonnadella Guardia

Capo diCaprazoppa

Capo Noli

VADOSAVONA

S.S.30 CairoMontenotte

Madonnadelle Grazie

490

S.S.29

T. Maremol

aMonte Settepani

1386

Madonnadella Neve

T. Osiglietta

Editorial production: M&R Comunicazione - GenovaTexts: Gian Antonio Dall’AglioEditing: Fabrizio CalziaEnglish translation: Polylingua EnterprisesGraphic design and make-up: Alessia MassariMap and illustrations: Marco FerrarisPhotography: Archivio APT Riviera delle Palme, Archivio M&R, Fabrizio Calzia, Mario Camuffo,Renato Cottalasso, Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio, Fabrizio Gioberti, Alessia Massari, Federico Panzano.Thanks to the Commune of Calice Ligure for permission to reproduce the photo of Emilio Scanavino'swork, and to the Commune of Cosseria for the photo of the Napoleonic battle re-enactment.Printing: Algraphy – Genova

© 2004, Agency of Touristic Promotion Riviera delle Palme

the other riviera

Olives and oil

Golf

Bed&BreakfastRestaurant

Sport

Wine

The territory map uses these symbols:

The information regarding each business was checked by the editor and was updated in May 2004.Thanks in advance to our readers for reporting any changes. As they are subject to variations,opening hours of restaurants are available on the website www.inforiviera.it or by calling theestablishments.The information contained in this booklet is in no way derived from advertisements.

Harbour Monument Hotel Typical productsand guest farm

Beach Plantsand flowers

Honey RidingOrganicfarming

Crafts Walks

This guide describes each valleyof the territory along routes thatgo “municipality bymunicipality”. Each area includesdifferent topics highlighted bysymbols and a colour code:

Locality

Art and History

Nature and Sport

Gastronomy

Accommodation

How to consult this guide

Wine, Oil,Distillates

Information andUseful Numbers

free

cop

y

Head officeAlassio (17021) - Viale Gibb, 26tel. 0182 647 11 - fax 0182 644 690www.inforiviera.ite-mail: [email protected]

Information and Tourist Reception Offices - I.A.T.

Alassio & Le Baie del Sole

Alassio (17021)Via Mazzini, 68tel. 0182 647 027 - fax 0182 647 874e-mail: [email protected] (17031)Piazza Corridoni, 11tel. 0182 558 444 - fax 0182 558 740e-mail: [email protected] (17051)Via Aurelia, 122/a - Villa Lauratel. 0182 681 004 - fax 0182 681 807e-mail: [email protected] (17023)Via Aurelia, 224/atel. 0182 993 007 - fax 0182 993 804e-mail: [email protected] (17033) seasonalVia Roma, 1tel. e fax 0182 582 114e-mail: [email protected] (17053)Via Roma, 2tel. 0182 690 059 - fax 0182 691 798e-mail: [email protected] (17037)Piazza IV Novembre, 11tel. e fax 0182 547 423e-mail: [email protected] d’Albenga (17038)seasonalVia Garibaldi, 5tel. e fax 0182 582 498e-mail: [email protected]

Il Loanese & Il Pietrese

Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052)Piazza Libertà, 1tel. e fax 0182 950 784e-mail: [email protected] Verezzi (17022)seasonalVia Matteotti, 158tel. e fax 019 610 412e-mail: [email protected] (17025)Corso Europa, 19tel. 019 676 007fax 019 676 818e-mail: [email protected] Ligure (17027)Piazza San Nicolò, 36tel. 019 629 003fax 019 629 790e-mail: [email protected] (17055)Piazzale Grottetel. 0182 989 938fax 0182 984 63e-mail: [email protected]

Il Finalese

Bardineto (17057) seasonalPiazza della Chiesa, 6tel. 019 790 72 28 - fax 019 790 72 93e-mail: [email protected] (17042) seasonalVia Aurelia - tel. e fax 019 859 777e-mail: [email protected] (17057) seasonalPiazza San Rocco - tel. e fax 019 791 93e-mail: [email protected] Ligure (17024)• Finalmarina - Via San Pietro, 14tel. 019 681 019 - fax 019 681 804e-mail: [email protected]• Finalborgo seasonalPiazza Porta Testatel. 019 680 954 - fax 019 681 57 89e-mail: [email protected] (17017)Piazza Italia, 27tel. 019 560 00 78 - fax 019 560 09 70e-mail: [email protected] (17026)Corso Italia, 8 - tel. 019 749 90 03 - fax 019 749 93 00e-mail: [email protected] (17028)Piazza Matteotti, 6tel. 019 741 50 08 - fax 019 741 58 11e-mail: [email protected] (17029) seasonalVia Aurelia, 79 - tel. 019 698 013 - fax 019 698 88 42e-mail: [email protected]

Il Savonese & Il Varazzino

Albissola Marina (17012)Albisola Superiore (17013)Passeggiata E. Montale, 21tel. 019 400 20 08 - fax 019 400 30 84e-mail: [email protected] Ligure (17015)Via Boagno - Palazzo Comunaletel. 019 990 021 - fax 019 999 97 98e-mail: [email protected] (17040) seasonalPiazza Indipendenza, 1tel. 019 705 001 - fax 019 705 269e-mail: [email protected] (17046) seasonalVia G.B. Badano, 45tel. 019 724 020 - fax 019 723 832e-mail: [email protected] (17100)Corso Italia, 157 rtel. 019 840 23 21 - fax 019 840 36 72e-mail: [email protected] (17019)Via Matteotti, 56 - Palazzo Beato Jacopotel. 019 935 043 - fax 019 935 916e-mail: [email protected]

the valleys between finale and bergeggi

Documents