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A COTTAGER’S GUIDE TOA HEALTHY WATERFRONT

THE SHORE PRIMER

ONTARIO EDITION

T H E S H O R E P R I M E R

Produced byFisheries and Oceans Canada

in association withCottage Life

FISHERIES AND OCEANS CANADAFish Habitat Management Program - Ontario-Great Lakes Area

867 Lakeshore Road, Burlington, ON L7R 4A6Web Site: www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/

COTTAGE LIFE54 St. Patrick Street, Toronto, ON M5T 1V1

Web Site: www.cottagelife.com

DFO/2008-1428©Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Canada 2008

Cat No. Fs23-507/1-2008E-PDFISBN 978-0-662-48023-5

Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Printed on recycled materials.

THE SHORE PRIMER

PAGE 3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAG E 4

YOUR SHORELINE: A NATURAL WONDER

PAG E 6

HOW TO PRESERVE YOUR SHORELINE’S TRUE NATURE•The Littoral Zone: Perfectly Productive Habitat

• The Shoreline: Glue for the Waterfront• The Riparian and Upland Zones: The Lake’s Buffer

•You Can Save Your Lake from Premature Aging

PAG E 1 4

MAKING AMENDS: WAYS TO RESTORE AN ALTERED SHORELINE•Before You Restore: The Approvals Process

• Restoration #1: Lessening Your Lawn’s Impact• Restoration #2: Switching to a Shoreline Friendly Dock

• Restoration #3: Softening a Hardened Shoreline• The New-Look Waterfront

PAG E 2 4FURTHER READING

PAG E 2 5ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

PAG E 2 7CONTACTS

For many cottagers and otherwaterfront residents, the quietspot by the lake is a little bit ofparadise where we can relax, play,

and enjoy being closer to nature. But it is a special place for another reason too. Thezone where the water meets the land is therichest natural environment that most of us

will ever come into contact with, andalmost certainly the most complex piece of the earth that we will ever have theopportunity to live near and share. Equallyimportant, the waterfront is crucial to yourlake’s health, providing oxygen, food, coverand a barrier to contaminants, as well as a living retaining wall for the shoreline.

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YOUR SHORELINE: A NATURAL WONDER

When a natural shoreline is altered,often by well-intentioned projects meant to improve waterfront living, the intricatebalance between vegetation, aquaticorganisms, and the shoreline is toppled.A typical scenario goes like this: Afterpurchasing their new cottage lot, the newowners want to enjoy an unobstructed view of the water so they organize aweekend logging bee and clear out thethicket of plants, shrubs, and trees liningthe shoreline. However, once the trees andshrubs are gone, the soil that their rootsheld in place begins to erode. Now thecottager family spends uneasy weekendswatching their frontage erode into the lake.Worried about the erosion of their propertyand investment, they spend a great deal ofmoney to build a breakwall. In a few years,the wall, undermined by the constantpounding of the waves, begins to list orcrack. Again, the owners fund a new seriesof repairs. They do not understand that by

retaining the shoreline vegetation, theirshoreline would enjoy the benefits ofnatural erosion control. What began as a bid to have a view of the lake turns into a grudge match between the cottagers and the waterfront - and both sides are taking a beating.

Why not declare a truce and weave yourcottage needs into the natural shoreline?This primer will show you how to protectand nurture the qualities that make it sucha special location. It also offers cottagersand other landowners constructive solutionsfor restoring an altered shoreline to itsformer health and beauty. The Shore Primeris the second in a series of primers onwaterfront stewardship published byFisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO) in association with Cottage Life. Incombination with The Shore Primer, thisseries of primers can help you become abetter caretaker of your own little piece of paradise.

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Y o u r S h o r e l i n e : A N a t u r a l W o n d e r


Take a good look around yourproperty and familiarize yourself with the features ofyour waterfront. The natural

shoreline has four components, beginningunderwater and extending upland (fartherthan you would think). Shoreline expertscall these four components the littoral zone,the shoreline, the riparian zone, and theupland zone, and each plays a critical role inkeeping your lake healthy. As important asthese separate zones are however, it is vitalto remember that the shoreline is a naturalprogression - each area transforms into thenext in a gradual, almost seamless transition.

Altering any portion of this region affectsthe whole, diminishing its ability to supportlife on the lake.

THE LITTORAL ZONE: PERFECTLY PRODUCTIVE HABITAT

Sitting on your dock, you are perchedin the littoral zone, the area from thewater’s edge to roughly where sunlight no longer penetrates to the lake bottom.As much as 90 percent of the species inthe lake either pass through or live in thiszone. Algae floats freely in the water orattaches to twigs, stones, and plants.Microscopic water bears (freshwater

invertebrates that looklike tiny lumberingbears - if you ignore the two extra legs) graze on aquatic plants.Yellow perch spawn in the shallows, while

northern pike lurk among thesedges. Ducks forage in the pond weeds, and turtles loaf on the trunks of fallen trees.

The water in front of theshoreline provides spawning areas,cover, nursery habitat and food for

HOW TO PRESERVE YOUR SHORELINE’S TRUE NATURE

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Building a sand beach istempting, but it caneasily erode, smotheringaquatic life.

a range of species, offering foraging areas and hiding spots and a shallow,relatively protected area for young fish and amphibians to grow. Aquatic plantsand downed trees are a crucial part of thesystem, with the plants acting as the lungsof the lake, converting sunlight into foodand releasing oxygen in the process,and providing food and shelter for othercreatures. Once submerged, wood becomesa major source of food for aquatic insects,crayfish, and small fish, its surface coveredwith tiny plants and invertebrates.Downed trees and woody debris also act as hiding spots for small fish and theirpredators, and are good spawning zonesfor yellow perch.

How we can help the littoral zone stay healthy: The water’s edge is also a focal point for human activity. While we do not intend to, it is easy for humans tointerfere with the delicate operations of the littoral zone. If you accidentally spilltwo-stroke fuel for example, the juvenileperch will be looking for a new home.

The simplest way to keep the littoral zonevibrant and healthy is to tinker with it aslittle as possible:• Use your dock as a bridge over the

weedier shallows, and moor a swimmingraft out in deeper water, rather thanremoving fish and amphibian habitat by ripping out aquatic plants to make a swimming area.

• Leave trees where they fall, unless they are a hazard to boats or swimmers.Typically, only a few trees along akilometre of waterfront will tumble into the water during a year. When acottager removes all of the trees liningthe waterfront, habitat formed by thefallen trunks and branches that tookdecades to accumulate is destroyed in a single summer.

• Before the impact of creating sandybeaches on lake habitats was wellunderstood, many cottagers liked to“improve” their swimming areas bybringing in a few truckloads of sandand dumping them on the shoreline.

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H o w To P r e s e r v e Yo u r S h o r e l i n e ’s Tr u e N at u r e

UPLANDRIPARIAN

SHORELINELITTORAL

So what is the harm in that? When the sand erodes, as it almost certainly will, it smothers spawning areas forsmallmouth bass and other fish,buries mayflies in their burrows,and covers the vegetation where frogs and toads lay theireggs. The impactripples through thefood chain. Withoutfrogs and tadpoles andother aquatic species to eat decaying aquaticplants and insects,more oxygen-depletingalgae fills the lake and more insects swarm the shoreline. The blueheron moves on whenamphibians grow scarce.While a beach may be funfor sunbathers, it is no picnic for littoral residents.

Despite these problems, sometimes acompromise is possible. You may be able tohave a sandy area if, for example, it is wellabove the ordinary high water mark andthere is little or no disruption to naturalshoreline vegetation. (On a lakeshore, theordinary high water mark is the highestpoint to which water customarily rises, andwhere the vegetation changes from mostlyaquatic species to terrestrial). (For guidance,check DFO’s “Operational Statements”;see p. 14).

THE SHORELINE: GLUE FOR THE WATERFRONT

Thanks to thousands of years of practice,the existence of natural shoreline vegetationprovides one of the world’s most effective,least expensive erosion controls. The mix of

plants, shrubs, and trees forms a complexweb of roots and foliage that knits thewaterfront together, holding the bank inplace and fending off the impacts of wind,rain, waves, ice, and boat wake.

The barricade against erosion isthe shoreline, the place where landand water meet. In its naturalstate, the shoreline is a profusionof stones, plants, shrubs, fallenlimbs, and tree trunks. But it is also a busy intersection,with animals, insects, andbirds traveling back and

forth. Moose and deerpick their way down

to the water to forageor drink. Mink skulk

about on huntingtrips. Water birds

waddle from their nests tothe water. Overhanging vegetation shadesand cools the water, and acts as a fast-foodoutlet for fish by producing a rain ofaphids, ants, and other insects that slipfrom their perches above.

How we can help keep the shorelinetogether: Things start to come apartwhen people remove the vegetation whose roots act as the glue that holds theshoreline together. The resulting erosionsends silt and sediment into the water

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where it damages spawning areas.For example, the eggs of northern pike cling to vegetation in the shallows.Water circulating around the spawningbed carries oxygen to the eggs, but whensilt covers them, the unhatched fish aresuffocated.

A method often used to protect againstshoreline erosion is to replace the naturalshoreline with a breakwall made of wood,rock, concrete, or steel. In environmentalterms, this converts a lively waterfront into a sterile environment. By imposing a sharp vertical drop-off on the shoreline,a breakwall limits the ability of plants to re-root up or down the bank as water levelsrise and fall, typically reducing waterfrontvegetation by one-half to three-quarters.The decline in the number and diversity of aquatic plants has a ripple effect,reducing habitat for fish, birds, andamphibians. As well, this kind of erosioncontrol is almost always an expensivetemporary fix. Because artificial materialslack the resilience of the natural shoreline,a homemade vertical breakwall often lastsonly a decade or so before cracking andfalling apart.

To maintain a healthy shoreline:• DO leave the natural vegetation on the

land and in the water.• DO NOT replace the shoreline with

a hardened surface like rip rap orbreakwall.

• DO NOT dump fill along yourwaterfront. Not only does thisdestroy part of the littoralzone where fish live,but it may alter watercurrents andincrease erosion on adjacentproperties.

THE RIPARIAN AND UPLANDZONES: THE LAKE’S BUFFER

Just like the mat laid at the cottagedoor that welcomes muddy feet and shoes,lakes have a similar “contaminant” barrier:the riparian and upland zones.

There are a lot of nasty things waitingto catch a lift down to the lake with rainrunoff, including seepage from septictanks, fertilizers and pesticides, depositsfrom family pets, and oil or gas spilled on the driveway. One of the maincontaminants from cottage runoff isphosphorus, a “nutrient” that occurs both in nature, as well as in human-madeproducts, such as fertilizer and detergent.On its own, phosphorus helps to nourishlife in the lake, but when we add to thatnatural load, phosphorus over-feeds thelake, causing algal blooms that consumethe water’s oxygen, and that results in poor water quality.

Fortunately, the jumble of trees,shrubs, and grasses along a naturalshoreline forms a “buffer” that helps filterout undesirables. In the riparian zone - the section of land closest to the shoreline- the thick layer of low foliage controlserosion and sifts impurities out of surfacerunoff. Leaves and branches break theforce of falling rain, which is furtherslowed by the rough surfaceof leaf litter, pine needles,and broken twigs.


PAGE 9

The water is then absorbed by plant rootsor the soil. As well as being a filter for the lake, the riparian zone is a refuge forwildlife: water birds nest in the tall grassesnear the water; and red-winged blackbirdsflit among the cattails. When the area isflooded during the high water period,even if there is only 18 cm of water, pikewill thrash their way over the spring-flooded banks, scattering their eggs in the lake-edge nursery.

The higher, drier ground called theupland zone is typically forested with the kinds of trees that take advantage of better drainage, including Manitobamaple, poplar, spruce and white birch.The deep roots of the trees stabilize theslopes, while their foliage buffers theshoreline from winds. The forest canopyalso cools the area by maintaining shadeand boosting humidity in the summer.In winter, it shelters deer, chickadees,porcupines, grouse, and rabbits.

Together, these two zones form a bufferso effective that many experts estimateonly 10 percent of the runoff actually makesit into the lake, and much of the sedimentand other pollutants are filtered out beforereaching the water. If the lake bottomdoes not drop off too quickly, then the

remaining run-off will tangle with anotherbarrier of aquatic plants in the littoralzone, where the jumble of bulrushes,arrowhead, and cattails slows the influx of runoff and consumes many of itsnutrients.

How to keep the riparian andupland zones in place: Almost anykind of development can weaken the lake’s buffer, and some projects can ruin it altogether. Even in the upland zone, thehard surfaces of paved driveways, shingledroofs, and patios shed water, increasingrunoff and heightening the danger oferosion. Sediment carried into the water is also a concern during construction when land is being cleared for a cottage,a garage, or even just a lawn. Here are a few ways you can assist the lake’s naturalfiltering system:• Eliminate potential pollutants by being

careful with gas and oil around thecottage, avoiding the use of fertilizersand pesticides, and maintaining yourseptic system with regular pump-outs.Be careful not to overload the septicsystem with too much water; somethingto consider when running the dishwasheror washing machine, or hosting a bigcrowd for the weekend. Working theseptic system too hard shortens its life,and can send some unpleasant thingsseeping toward the lake.

• Maintain as much riparian and uplandvegetation as possible.

• Opt for softer or more permeablesurfaces (gravel or wood chips) ratherthan concrete and asphalt.

• Replant disturbed areas as quickly aspossible, and landscape grassed swales or depressions around the cottage tocatch and encourage infiltration ofrainwater flowing off of the roof.


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1

2

3

(1) When vegetation at the water’s edge is cut down, wildlife habitat is lost andmore polluting runoff reaches the lake. (2) Clearing woody debris and aquatic plants from the shallows means fish no longer come to spawn nor herons to feed. (3) A concrete breakwall is a sterile barrier, extinguishing shoreline vitality.

Be especially careful in the riparian zone, where any soil dug up is apt to bewashed straight into the lake during thenext rainfall. Leave the riparian plants,shrubs and trees in place.

• Keep flower and vegetable gardens wellaway from the lake.

YOU CAN SAVE YOUR LAKE FROM PREMATURE AGING

Like any cottager, a lake ages in a natural process called eutrophication: theincrease in nutrients due to run-off fromthe surrounding area and the growth anddecomposition of aquatic plants over time.Eventually (thousands of years later),so much decomposing plant and animal matter builds up that the lake bottom fillsin, converting it to a bog and eventually,dry land.

On the geologic time scale, this is a goodand normal thing - a healthy eutrophic lakesupports all sorts of warmwater fish such as largemouth bass, catfish, and pike.But when humans fast-forward the processby tearing out the shoreline buffer zone and dumping too many nutrients such as

phosphorus into the lake, the water begins to change too rapidly for the life that depends upon it. The water becomesmurkier as plant and algae growth explodes,the added vegetation decomposing andconsuming the oxygen normally shared withother aquatic creatures. Sensitive species liketrout can suffocate in the oxygen depletedenvironment, interrupting the food chainand causing fish with a higher tolerance of lower oxygen conditions (like carp) to flourish. The lake ages before its time.

Because eutrophication is often the result of a lot of small actions - poor septicsystems, using high-phosphate soaps,removing shoreline plants - it can also be arrested by the efforts of landowners.By understanding how a natural shorelinefunctions and then acting collectively topreserve, not destroy, that critical balance,individuals can make a difference.

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A Riparian Zone

The trouble with the naturalshoreline is that there is not as much as there used to be.The extravagant native greenery

that once sprawled along the waterfront has been cut down, boxed in, built over,and otherwise shoved aside on many lakes.It has been replaced by the ordered andangular world of docks, grass, beaches,and breakwalls. However, a “developed”shoreline is not a lost cause. Restoring thebeauty and integrity of your waterfront neednot cost a lot of money or require a lot oflabour - after all, working with nature ischeaper and easier than working against it.

Because each stretch of shoreline isdistinct, there is no one generic prescriptionfor bringing an altered waterfront back to

health. But the following scenarios andsuggestions will help you begin to makeamends with your shoreline.

BEFORE YOU RESTORE: THE APPROVALS PROCESS

A number of federal, provincial, andmunicipal laws and regulations influenceshoreline work across Canada. Whetheryou want to restore your shoreline, or buildfrom scratch, check well in advance of yourproject to see what approvals you mayrequire. Under the federal Fisheries Act,the onus is on property owners to ensurethat shoreline work does not harmfullyalter, disrupt, or destroy fish habitat withoutthe required authorization from DFO.

The first step is to check whether yourproject meets the criteria of an

Operational Statement -DFO’s guidelines forworks around water that

pose a low risk to fishhabitat. If your shorelineplan meets the conditions

laid out in an OperationalStatement and you incorporate

the measures it advises to protectfish habitat, then your project

does not require formal review by


MAKING AMENDS: WAYS TORESTORE AN ALTERED SHORELINE

PAGE 14

DFO. To see if your plans are lake-friendly(or to find out how to make them better),visit the DFO web site at www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/. Once there,click on “Operational Statements”(for dock and boathouse construction,beach creation, etc.).

If the Operational Statementsdo not relate to your project,or they do not apply in Ontario,talk to your local ConservationAuthority (CA) or, if you donot have one, the nearestOntario Ministry ofNatural Resources (MNR)office. For landowners who have property fronting the RideauCanal, Trent-Severn Waterway,or other federal lands, contact Parks Canada. On regulatedwaterways, you should also consultwith the authority responsible forwater levels.

Here is another stop you should make on the approvals journey: If your project isin an area where there are aquatic species atrisk, as defined by the federal Species at RiskAct (SARA), get in touch with your localCA, DFO or Parks Canada office to makesure that what you have in mind is incompliance with SARA. A visit towww.sararegistry.gc.ca will help.

If you are in doubt about what process to follow, contact your nearest DFO office.DFO staff can guide you through theapprovals process, provide some options,and help you select the best approach foryour shoreline, possibly saving you time and money. Projects that involve hardmaterials such as stone, steel, or concreteare more apt to become tangled in shorelineregulations, but it is a good idea to call thegovernment experts even if you are justmulling over a restoration.

Keep in mind that obtaining approvalfrom one agency does not guarantee thatyou will get the okay from another. Makesure that you have all necessary approvalsbefore starting work.

How to prepare for your project:Make a plan for your shoreline-friendly

property, including an inventory of existingplants and features, the different waterfrontzones your project will involve, and anotion of your final objectives. Find somegraph paper (to make it easier to draw toscale) and draw up a map of your property,including buildings and structures, theshoreline, high and low water points, waterintakes, vegetation on the land and in thewater, wildlife habitat (fish spawningplaces, areas where ducklings swim), andprevailing winds and currents. This mapwill come in handy if you discover that you

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M a k i n g A m e n d s : W a y s To R e s t o r e A n A l t e r e d S h o r e l i n e

require formal approvals or permits for your project, so make several copies.

Next, note problem areas on yourshoreline: places that have been clear-cut,eroding banks, failing breakwalls, ailingdocks, and so on. Include high-activityareas, such as the patch of lawn that acts asthe badminton or volleyball court, and thepathways to the shoreline. Brainstorm withyour family, neighbouring cottagers, andshoreline-care experts to find natural,environmentally friendly solutions.

When you have come up with the bestapproach, discuss your project with the CA, MNR, Parks Canada or DFO. If youneed to make a formal application, be sure to include:• Your name, address, telephone number,

fax number, and e-mail address;• Your water body’s name and location,

including lot and concession number,municipality, county or district, and eventhe latitude and longitude coordinates if

you have them (the coordinates areavailable off a good topographic map or a Global Positioning System receiver);

• A copy of your hand-drawn lot map,signed and dated;

• An outline of your plans, includingconstruction details, schedule,techniques, materials and goals; and

• Photos of the work site and thesurrounding shoreline. Photosthroughout the seasons (summer,winter, and during spring breakup) may be helpful.

Do your planning the summer before you want to begin the work, and file yourapplications (where required) in the fall.That way, you will have all of the paperworktaken care of in time for the spring thaw.

What happens if you ignore all of thisgood advice? Not taking the properprecautions to ensure that your projectmeets provincial and federal requirementsmay result in a violation under the Fisheries Act and related legislation. Firsttime offenders under the Fisheries Act canreceive a maximum fine of $300,000, andpossible jail time for subsequent conviction.As well, the courts often order restoration of the property to its original state.

RESTORATION #1: LESSENINGYOUR LAWN’S IMPACT

How many lawns can you countaround your lake? Probably more

than you used to, as increasing numbers of people are retiring to live full time at

their cottages. While turf has its place,lakes and lawns have a relationship that is uneasy at best, and poisonous at worst.Lawns displace the hard-working nativeplants that protect the lake, and when aheavy rain comes, they do little to protect


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the lake from sediment or chemical-ladenrun-off . According to one study, 90percent of the rain falling on a naturalshoreline is absorbed before reaching thewater, while up to 55 percent of the rainfalling on hard surfaces, including lawns,flows right into the lake.

All that runoff hastens erosion, sendingsilt and sediment into the water where it damages spawning and feeding areas.Pesticides and fertilizers lavished on thelawn also play havoc with the aquaticecosystem. Weed and bug killers may harmfish or destroy the plants and insects thatfish feed on, and fertilizers promote algaegrowth, leading to a greener, murkier lake.A kilogram of phosphorus fertilizer washedoff of the lawn and into the lake fuels thegrowth of 500 kg of aquatic plants, snaringboat propellers and choking shorelines.

If you must have a lawn (over the septicbed, for example), use natural methods tomaintain it and avoid chemical fertilizersand weed controls. Try leaving the grassclippings where they fall to mulch andfertilize the sod, but only if thelawn is far enough awayfrom the water that theclippings will not be washedinto the lake. Let the grassgrow at least seven centimetreslong between trimmings toconserve soil moisture. Anotheroption is to let the grass growall season; knocking it downonce a year with a trimmeror scythe will keep treesand shrubs out, whilepermitting wildflowers to put down roots.

Buffering your lawn from the lake:Because lawns are the last thing a lake

wants beside it, you will be doing theshoreline and yourself a big favour bygetting rid of the tidy plot once and for all.But if that is too radical a notion for first-time restorationists, take the next best step:Keep them apart with a buffer zone ofnatural vegetation to filter contaminants in runoff, provide homes for wildlife,and enhance your cottage privacy. (Formore detail on buffer function, see p. 9).

The deeper a buffer is, the better itworks. As a rough rule of thumb, a bufferextending back 30 metres from the top ofthe bank is sufficient for most coldwaterlakes (whose fish suffer more from nutrientrunoff ), while 15 metres will protect awarmwater lake. The natural area should be even deeper on properties with steep,erosion-prone slopes. The key thing toremember is that any amount of buffer isbetter than none at all. If 30 metres sounds


Replace a hardened walkway with amore absorbent one made of wood

chips, gravel, or wooden slatsspaced apart so that

rainfall can soak into the soil.

PAGE 17

like too much, consider going au naturelin stages, adding a bit more each year by working back from the shoreline in two-to-three metre strips.

How to Build a Buffer: The easiestapproach to building a buffer, especially for lots with patches of healthy nativevegetation or erosion-prone soils, is to stop mowing the lawn. Native grasses,shrubs, and trees will colonize the area,with the wildflowers and grasses moving induring the first year, and shrubs and treesfollowing a year or two later. Troublesomeinvaders, such as garlic mustard or burdock,can be selectively cut or hand pulled.

Restoring a heavily clear-cut area is alittle tougher, but not beyond the skills ofanyone who can handle a shovel and a

watering can. Start by looking at the foliagecovering natural areas of the lake and try to duplicate it on your lot. By planting amix of native plants and shrubs - willows,dogwoods, joe-pye weed, blue vervain,and elderberry - in the riparian zone, youcan protect the soil, buffer the waterfront,and entice birds and other wildlife. In theupland area, you can add species that thriveon well-drained slopes, such as sugarmaple, white birch, white pine, and whiteash. Avoid pilfering wild plants (unless they are going to be built on or paved over)because you are simply denuding one areato clothe another. Do make sure that thespecies you purchase are native to your area- consult with the various shoreline experts,local gardening centres, horticulturalsocieties, and naturalists’ clubs.

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A lawn is an unhealthypartner for a lake. Not onlydoes it foster fertilizer andpesticide use but, being a“hard” surface, it allows upto 55 percent of rainfall toescape into the water,washing away topsoil and,eventually, the shoreline.

A natural area often looks more appealingto the eye if you plan a transition zonebetween it and the more manicured areas of your property. If you like, considersoftening the shift from lawn and gardensto a wilder-looking buffer with a mix ofshowy native plants, such as black-eyedSusan and bee balm. Adopt flowing,curving borders rather than straight lines to promote this natural aesthetic. Preserve a view of the water through judiciouspruning, grouping taller trees to allowsightlines, or building an elevated viewingdeck behind the cottage.

Use a meandering trail - angled alongthe slope, not running straight down to theshoreline - to lead visitors from the cottage

to the dock. The path will look morenatural and will allow rainwater to infiltratethe soil if it is covered with pea gravel orbark chips.

Another option is a wood walkway,with slats wide enough to let rain andsunlight through. Creative types might also consider adding an elevated walkwayor bridge over sensitive areas, built on posts rising 15 - 30 cm above the ground.The bridge protects vegetation andprovides cover for ground-huggingwoodland creatures such as frogs, toads,snakes, and salamanders. On slopes, it isbest to opt for raised wooden stairs built on posts. Cutting into the slope to installsteps only encourages erosion.

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Help a damaged shoreline by plantinga buffer of native shrubs and grasses.

The thick tangle of thirsty rootsdramatically slows runoff.

Over time, waveaction turns abreakwall into acrumbling eyesore.

Regrade the slope to a gentle25 degrees and line withgeotextile filter cloth. Smashthe wall and top with rip-rap.

With nature’s waterfront re-created, evicted shorelineresidents happily return.

A HARD EDGE

A NEW SLANT

A SOFT TOUCH


Concrete steps and sidewalks willcircumvent your buffer by channellingrunoff towards the lake.

RESTORATION #2: SWITCHING TO A SHORELINE-FRIENDLY DOCK

Docks are so much a part of lakesideliving, you probably see them as extensionsof the shoreline. The truth is, ill-designedshoreline structures fragment the habitatthat is so critical to lakeside creatures.When the time comes to replace therickety, old dock you have inherited, selectone that suits your purposes but that alsodoes the least harm to the lake. Cottagerscan find all that they need to know aboutshoreline-friendly structures in The DockPrimer (to get a copy, see p. 24), but hereare a few key factors to keep in mind:

• Type of dock: A floating dock isamong the top fish-friendly choices becauseit causes the least disturbance to the lakebottom, provides fish cover, rides outfluctuating lake levels, and does not alterwater currents. But it is not perfect.Floating docks shade some of the littoralzone, reducing the aquatic life that manyfish, insects, and animals depend on.They also pose problems for ducklings.The waterfowl cling to the shoreline asthey learn to paddle, and may shun an areawhere they have to circumnavigate a lot ofdocks jammed up against the land. You caneasily fix this problem by pushing the docka bit further out and using a gangplank tobridge the short stretch of water between it and the shoreline. This gives mama duckand her brood a marine underpass, whileallowing you to access your dock.

Pipe or pile docks may be an equallygood option for lakes with more stablewater levels. Resting mostly out of water

on pipes or posts, both types of dock have a small footprint on the littoral zone. Theyalso provide some structural habitat, andallow more sunlight to penetrate through to the lake bottom. Cantilever, suspension,and lift docks are anchored by their base to the shoreline and overhang the water.They are gentle on the environment, butthey are expensive and fairly complex tobuild. Less preferred are crib docks, usuallybuilt on a base of square-cut timbers filledwith stones, covering parts of the littoralzone. Last and definitely least, a concretepier is a disaster in environmental terms,crushing the life in the littoral zone.

• Building materials: The safest optionfor waterfront construction is untreatedwood, such as cedar, fir, hemlock, andtamarack. Plastic wood, if installedproperly, offers long life, but may sagbetween spans or split during installation if you are not careful.

Treated wood is definitely a secondchoice. Wood preservatives kill theorganisms that cause rot, but what destroysfungi can also harm other organisms(including you if you breathe in too muchsawdust or get too much preservative on your skin). If you must go this route,buy lumber that is pressure treated at thefactory rather than doing it yourself with a paintbrush. Approved wood preservativesmost commonly used are alkaline copperquaternary (ACQ) and copper azole (CA).Creosote-treated wood should not be usedin or near water. Before you buy, ask yourlocal building supply outlet for moreinformation about environmentally friendly wood products.

• Choose your site carefully:You can reduce the impact of waterfrontdevelopment by selecting dock orboathouse sites with little or no vegetation,and developing 25 percent or less of your

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total frontage. If, for example, you own 30 metres of lakefront, pick the three toeight metres where development will do the least harm, and set that section aside for a dock or swimming area. Keep the fish,ducks, and other wildlife happy by leavingthe rest in its natural state. DFO’sOperational Statements provide goodadvice about protecting fish and fish habitatwhen building a dock or undertaking othershoreline projects; (see p. 14).

RESTORATION #3: SOFTENING A HARDENED SHORELINE

Take a look along your waterfront -wherever you see a breakwall, that stretchof shoreline looks almost lifeless.“Hardened” shorelines are like hardenedarteries: Left without treatment, they canhave serious healthconsequences.

When ashoreline isbounded byconcrete,steel, orstone, theflow of lifealong thewaterfront isconstricted. In seriouscases, the biologicalcomponents of thewaterfront are removedaltogether, as planthabitat is destroyedand fish, birds,and amphibiansmove on.

Worse still, hardenedshorelines are only a temporary fix foran erosion problem usually caused byremoving shoreline vegetation. When wave

action slams against a vertical wall, theenergy is deflected upwards where the wave breaks against the top of the wall,and downwards, where currents scour outthe earth at its base. As the ground beneathit washes away, the wall begins to list andbreak up. Eventually, it topples over.

If you own a breakwall, there are a fewthings you can do to reduce the pounding it takes and improve habitat along theshoreline. First, plant a buffer zone (see p. 17), including a lot of deep-rootednative shrubs, to hold the soil together andprevent gullies from opening up behind the wall. The next step, which requires theapproval of government authorities, is toimprove the habitat in the littoral zone.Stones piled at a 45-degree angle in frontof the wall will add more places for fish to hide and feed, and may trap enoughsediment to encourage the growth ofaquatic plants. As a bonus, the stones will

also absorb much of the force of thewaves, extending the life of the

wall. “Shore ladders,” madeby piling up enoughstones to reach from

the lake bed to thetop of the wall,allow frogs,snakes, and mink

to travel back andforth from land towater.

If the breakwall is already fallingapart, view it as an

opportunity to replacethe crumbling eyesore

with a new, more naturalshoreline. After receiving the

appropriate approvals and advice, dig outthe bank behind the failing wall to restore aslope of 25 degrees or less, and line it with

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geotextile filter cloth to keep the soil in place. Ideally, you should remove thebreakwall, but if that is not practical, youcan pull it back onto the new slope andbreak the concrete into cobble-sized piecesof rubble. Be sure to add a veneer ofappropriately sized stones commonlyknown as “rip-rap” (usually 15-20 cm in diameter) to cover the filter cloth.Just behind the riprap, plant woodyvegetation and shrubs, such as willow,dogwood, sweet gale, Virginia creeper,riverbank grape, and poplar. Eventually,the plants will grow into the spacesbetween the stones. You will have ashoreline-friendly waterfront that controlserosion and provides wildlife habitat.

Most shorelines can be held together bytheir natural vegetation. In erosion-proneareas, the existing plants can be augmentedby shrub willows. CAs can also explain how to “bio-engineer” a shoreline to resist erosion with a tough and resilientcombination of stones, wood, willow,and poplar cuttings.

Finally, if you have a serious erosionproblem - particularly if you are on one of the Great Lakes - you will need goodadvice on protecting your shoreline. Checkwith your local CA or MNR office andconsider weighing your options with acoastal engineer. Well-engineered erosioncontrols that balance shoreline protectionand habitat maintenance will cost more than a do-it-yourself job, but theinvestment pays off in longevity, peace ofmind, and preservation of the waterfrontenvironment.

THE NEW-LOOK WATERFRONT

Depending how developed your lake is with lawns, breakwalls, and the like,a cottager opting for the “natural” look may be viewed by the neighbours withvarying degrees of interest, curiosity, andbemusement. As you begin your restorationproject, get other lake residents onside byexplaining why you are forsaking the lawnin favour of dogwood and black-eyedSusan, and perhaps offering them a copy of this booklet. Explain that you are concerned about the health of thewaterfront and that you want to preservethe lake and its inhabitants for your kids -or their kids - to enjoy. On a wider scale,try contacting like-minded lake loversthrough the local lake association. Formingan unofficial shoreline support group is agood way to share shoreline restorationinformation.

Then, having ensured your reputation asa thoughtful, concerned lakeside resident -maybe even a visionary! - you can spendmore time relaxing and enjoying yourwaterfront.

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PAGE 24

FURTHER READINGThe Dock PrimerCo-published by Fisheries and Oceans Canada andCottage Life

The Dock Primer is an invaluable guide to waterfront-friendlydocks, covering all the essentials from best building designs to the approvals process.

The Drain Primer Cliff EvanitskiFisheries and Oceans Canada, Ontario Federation of Agriculture and Drain Superintendents Association of Ontario

The Drain Primer is a helpful guide to maintaining andconserving agricultural drains and fish habitat.

The Baitfish Primer Becky Cudmore and Nicholas E. MandrakFisheries and Oceans Canada and Bait Association of Ontario

The Baitfish Primer is an informative guide for identifying and protecting Ontario’s baitfishes.

The Fish Habitat Primer Fisheries and Oceans CanadaThe Fish Habitat Primer is an essential guide to recognizing andrespecting the environment on which fish depend to keep their- and our - waterways vibrant with life.

Working Around Water? – a series of fact sheets.

Operational Statements - a series of documentsdeveloped to streamline DFO’s regulatory review of lowrisk activities.These publications, and more, are available electronically on the Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO) web site at www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/. For a copy of any of theseDFO publications, please contact your local DFO office (see “Contacts,” p. 27).

Aussi disponsible en français.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

PAGE 25


Fisheries and Oceans Canada wishes to thank the following individuals and organizationsfor their assistance in the research of The Shore Primer: Ray Ford (Author);

Canadian Museum of Nature; Federation of Ontario Naturalists;Linda Hellas, Bird and Hale Ltd.; Neil Hutchinson, Gartner Lee Ltd.;

Paul Keddy, Southeastern Louisiana University; Lake Simcoe Fisheries Assessment Unit;Lake Simcoe Region Conservation Authority; Ontario Ministry of the Environment;

Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources; Rideau Valley Conservation Authority;The Living by Water Project; Upper Rideau Lake Association;

and Watershed Science Centre, Trent University.Illustrations by David Wysotski. Photography by Kevin Hewitt.


NOTES:


SOUTHERN ONTARIO DISTRICT

Burlington304-3027 Harvester RoadP.O. Box 85060Burlington, ON L7R 4K3Tel: 905-639-0188Fax: 905-639-3549E-mail: [email protected]

London73 Meg DriveLondon, ON N6E 2V2Tel: 519-668-2722Fax: 519-668-1772E-mail: [email protected]

EASTERN ONTARIO DISTRICT

Peterborough501 Towerhill Road, Unit 102Peterborough, ON K9H 7S3Tel: 705-750-0269Fax: 705-750-4016E-mail: [email protected]

Prescott401 King Street WestPrescott, ON K0E 1T0Tel: 613-925-2865Fax: 613-925-2245E-mail: [email protected]

NORTHERN ONTARIO DISTRICT

Parry Sound28 Waubeek StreetParry Sound, ON P2A 1B9Tel: 705-746-2196Fax: 705-746-4820E-mail: [email protected]

Sudbury and Sault Ste. Marie1500 Paris Street, Unit 11Sudbury, ON P3E 3B8Tel: 705-522-2816Fax: 705-522-6421E-mail: [email protected]

Thunder Bay and Kenora425-100 Main StreetThunder Bay, ON P7B 6R9Tel: 807-346-8118Fax: 807-346-8545E-mail: [email protected]

CONTACTSFisheries and Oceans Canada - Ontario-Great Lakes Area Offices

COTTAGE LIFE54 St. Patrick StreetToronto, ON M5T 1V1Tel: 416-599-2000 Fax: 416-599-0500E-mail: [email protected] Site: www.cottagelife.com

MINISTRY OF NATURAL RESOURCESNatural Resources Information CentreP.O. Box 7000300 Water StreetPeterborough, ON K9J 8M5Tel: 1-800-667-1940 Fax: 705-755-1677E-mail: [email protected] Site: www.mnr.gov.on.ca

CONSERVATION ONTARIO120 Bayview Parkway, Box 11Newmarket, ON L3Y 4W3Tel: 905-895-0716 Fax: 905-895-0751E-mail: [email protected] Site: www.conservationontario.ca

PARKS CANADA25 Eddy StreetGatineau, QC K1A 0M5Tel: 1-888-773-8888E-mail: [email protected] Site: www.parkscanada.gc.ca

FEDERATION OF ONTARIO COTTAGERS’ ASSOCIATIONS (FOCA)201 - 159 King StreetPeterborough, ON K9J 2R8Phone: 705-749-FOCA (3622)Fax: 705-749-6522E-mail: [email protected] Site: www.foca.on.ca

THE LIVING BY WATER PROJECTCentre for Sustainable Watersheds14 Water Street, Box 280Portland, ON K0G 1V0Tel: 613-272-5136E-mail: [email protected] Site: www.watersheds.ca

See page 27 for complete listing of DFO Offices.

March 2008

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