The Rise of Yuppie The Rise of Yuppie Coffees & The Coffees & The

Reimagination of Class Reimagination of Class in the U.S.in the U.S.

William RoseberryWilliam Roseberry

Coffee..Coffeee..Coffeeeee!Coffee..Coffeee..Coffeeeee!► Coffee is a widely consumed, stimulant beverage Coffee is a widely consumed, stimulant beverage

prepared from roasted seeds – coffee beans – of the prepared from roasted seeds – coffee beans – of the coffee plantcoffee plant

► Believed to be first consumed in the 9Believed to be first consumed in the 9thth century; has century; has played an important role in many societies throughout played an important role in many societies throughout modern historymodern history

► English word coffee comes from Italian ‘caffe’ English word coffee comes from Italian ‘caffe’ introduced to Europe by the Ottoman Turks by the term introduced to Europe by the Ottoman Turks by the term ‘kahveh’ derived from Arabic ‘qahweh’ could be ‘kahveh’ derived from Arabic ‘qahweh’ could be derived from the Kaffa region in W. Ethiopia or a derived from the Kaffa region in W. Ethiopia or a truncation of the Arabic word ‘qahwat al-bunn’ – “wine truncation of the Arabic word ‘qahwat al-bunn’ – “wine of the bean”of the bean”

► The discovery of coffee was said by the 19The discovery of coffee was said by the 19thth C. physician C. physician Isidore Bourdon to have 'enlarged the realm of illusion Isidore Bourdon to have 'enlarged the realm of illusion and given more promise to hope'and given more promise to hope'There are two main types, Arabica and Robusta. Arabica There are two main types, Arabica and Robusta. Arabica is higher quality, and fetches about twice as much is higher quality, and fetches about twice as much robustarobusta

Proletarian Hunger Proletarian Hunger KillersKillers►When coffee, as the beverage of choice in When coffee, as the beverage of choice in

working and middle class homes and factory working and middle class homes and factory canteens is linked to the coffee traders’ role canteens is linked to the coffee traders’ role in the internationalization and in the internationalization and standardization that restructured the coffee standardization that restructured the coffee market, we see that coffee trade was part of market, we see that coffee trade was part of the same process that made a capitalist the same process that made a capitalist worldworld

► Coffee links consumption zones (and rise of Coffee links consumption zones (and rise of working and middle classes that consumed working and middle classes that consumed such products) and production zones such products) and production zones (peasants, slaves and other rural workers (peasants, slaves and other rural workers who grew such commodities in Latin who grew such commodities in Latin America, the Caribbean, Asia, and Africa)America, the Caribbean, Asia, and Africa)

►Sidney Mintz: coffee is one of many Sidney Mintz: coffee is one of many foods (sugar, tea, chocolate) we can foods (sugar, tea, chocolate) we can use to analyze industrialization, the use to analyze industrialization, the making of a working class, and their making of a working class, and their role as role as “proletarian hunger killers”“proletarian hunger killers”

► Each of the proletarian hunger killers entered Each of the proletarian hunger killers entered markets as expensive goods and became markets as expensive goods and became proletarian hunger killers as their costs of proletarian hunger killers as their costs of production, processing, and shipping dropped production, processing, and shipping dropped and domestic consumption increasedand domestic consumption increased

Shaping the TasteShaping the Taste► Two historical issuesTwo historical issues► (i) An earlier period characterized by (i) An earlier period characterized by

standardization and mass-marketingstandardization and mass-marketing► (ii) Specific history of speciality coffees (ii) Specific history of speciality coffees

themselvesthemselves►Questions: Questions:

What was the position and role of the giant coffee What was the position and role of the giant coffee corporations during the period of standardization?corporations during the period of standardization?

How has the turn towards specialty coffees been How has the turn towards specialty coffees been organized? organized?

Who are the ‘agents’ of change and how have they Who are the ‘agents’ of change and how have they reimagined the market in order to cater to a larger reimagined the market in order to cater to a larger audience in the U.S.?audience in the U.S.?

Coffee in the U.S.: A History Coffee in the U.S.: A History ► The process of standardization and The process of standardization and

concentration was strongly consolidated after concentration was strongly consolidated after World War II due in part to heavily controlled World War II due in part to heavily controlled export quotas on producing countriesexport quotas on producing countries

► Thus a half century ago, coffee in the U.S. was Thus a half century ago, coffee in the U.S. was sold in cans with choices limited to light roasts, sold in cans with choices limited to light roasts, fewer range of grinds and, a few brands such fewer range of grinds and, a few brands such as General Foods and Proctor & Gamble.as General Foods and Proctor & Gamble.

► Through the 1950s, coffee consumption was Through the 1950s, coffee consumption was generally consistent. However, from 1962 generally consistent. However, from 1962 until the early 1980s consumption significantly until the early 1980s consumption significantly declined as younger consumers associated it declined as younger consumers associated it with the older generationwith the older generation

Coffee in the U.S.: A HistoryCoffee in the U.S.: A History►Sales dropped due to a rise in prices Sales dropped due to a rise in prices

following the 1975 frost in Brazil following the 1975 frost in Brazil ►Coffee distributors began to sell coffee Coffee distributors began to sell coffee

not on price, but on quality, value, and not on price, but on quality, value, and image image

►This specialized coffee was thus This specialized coffee was thus fetishizedfetishized and marketed to groups according to and marketed to groups according to class and generationclass and generation with a general focus with a general focus on college students and Yuppies on college students and Yuppies

The 1980s Concentration The 1980s Concentration PeriodPeriod

►Significant price differentials remain Significant price differentials remain from the point of production through from the point of production through traders, export firms, importers, traders, export firms, importers, warehouses, roasters and distributorswarehouses, roasters and distributors

►Giant roasters participated in this Giant roasters participated in this market and proceeded dominate in market and proceeded dominate in mass production of coffee for mass mass production of coffee for mass marketsmarkets

The 1980s Concentration The 1980s Concentration PeriodPeriod

►Coffee distributors began to develop Coffee distributors began to develop different coffees to attract new niches in different coffees to attract new niches in the market and to appeal to different the market and to appeal to different groups: working people, college groups: working people, college students, etc.—dividing the market into students, etc.—dividing the market into segments based on class and generationsegments based on class and generation

►This period of market concentration saw This period of market concentration saw the export-import coffee trade organized the export-import coffee trade organized hierarchically according to:hierarchically according to: Type of beans (Colombian Arabica, Robusta), Type of beans (Colombian Arabica, Robusta), Origin (Guatemalan, Kona, Ethiopian), Origin (Guatemalan, Kona, Ethiopian), Processing methods, shape, size and texture Processing methods, shape, size and texture

of beansof beans

The 1980s Concentration The 1980s Concentration PeriodPeriod

► There was an exponential growth of 30-50% in There was an exponential growth of 30-50% in coffee trade devoted to specialty lines, from 14 coffee trade devoted to specialty lines, from 14 million pounds in 1980 to 40 million in 1983million pounds in 1980 to 40 million in 1983

► This was due to technological and commercial This was due to technological and commercial advances: Containerization revolution- advances: Containerization revolution- Improvement of shipping and storage Improvement of shipping and storage methods, allowing smaller quantities of coffee methods, allowing smaller quantities of coffee to be purchased and stored by independent to be purchased and stored by independent distributorsdistributors

► Also important is the restructuring of the Also important is the restructuring of the relationships between roasters, traders, and relationships between roasters, traders, and bankers that allowed for further flexibility bankers that allowed for further flexibility

New Actors, New InstitutionsNew Actors, New Institutions► Throughout the 1980’s the speciality segment Throughout the 1980’s the speciality segment

grew, attaining the highest profit margins grew, attaining the highest profit margins while total coffee consumption declinedwhile total coffee consumption declined

►Giant companies such as Nestle, General Giant companies such as Nestle, General Foods, and Proctor & Gamble ignored the Foods, and Proctor & Gamble ignored the growth of specialty coffees until they growth of specialty coffees until they captured a significant amount of the marketcaptured a significant amount of the market

► But formation of groups such as Speciality But formation of groups such as Speciality Coffee Association of America, a group of Coffee Association of America, a group of roasters and retailers – lobbied government roasters and retailers – lobbied government and engaged in promotional campaignsand engaged in promotional campaigns

David Harvey & Flexible David Harvey & Flexible AccumulationAccumulation

►Roseberry uses David Harvey’s analysis Roseberry uses David Harvey’s analysis to show how specialty coffee is to show how specialty coffee is representative of representative of flexible flexible accumulationaccumulation. .

►Neoliberal globalization creates Neoliberal globalization creates conditions for new niche marketsconditions for new niche markets

►The consumer is separated from The consumer is separated from knowledge of the labor process, and the knowledge of the labor process, and the apparent plethora of individual choices is apparent plethora of individual choices is actually structured by niche marketing. actually structured by niche marketing.

The Origin of Yuppie CoffeesThe Origin of Yuppie Coffees► Roseberry surveys Zabar’s, the gourmet food Roseberry surveys Zabar’s, the gourmet food

emporium, in Manhattan, N.Y.C.–where there emporium, in Manhattan, N.Y.C.–where there are barrels of roasted coffee beans of different are barrels of roasted coffee beans of different styles - Kona Blend, Columbian, Mocha, styles - Kona Blend, Columbian, Mocha, Kenyan to name a few (reminiscent of the “old Kenyan to name a few (reminiscent of the “old days”)days”)

► A nearby Deli offers more than 43 kinds of A nearby Deli offers more than 43 kinds of coffees, with various other delis offering similar coffees, with various other delis offering similar varieties of ‘speciality’ coffees that cater to varieties of ‘speciality’ coffees that cater to everyoneeveryone

► The expansion of speciality coffees is a distinct The expansion of speciality coffees is a distinct break away from the past of mass production break away from the past of mass production and consumptionand consumption

Speciality, Yuppie Coffees?Speciality, Yuppie Coffees?►So what exactly are these “yuppie So what exactly are these “yuppie

coffees”?coffees”?►Yuppie coffees, otherwise known as Yuppie coffees, otherwise known as

specialty brands, refer to the wide variety specialty brands, refer to the wide variety of coffees sold under an assortment of of coffees sold under an assortment of names based on preparation method, names based on preparation method, blends, and added flavorsblends, and added flavors

►These new coffees gained popularity as These new coffees gained popularity as those involved in the trade promoted the those involved in the trade promoted the desire for ‘taste’ among drinkersdesire for ‘taste’ among drinkers

Two new developments:Two new developments:1.1. Uncertain availability of particular beans led to Uncertain availability of particular beans led to

the introduction of ‘the introduction of ‘stylesstyles’ and ‘’ and ‘flavorsflavors.’ A style, .’ A style, for example “Morning Roast/Blend” mixes beans for example “Morning Roast/Blend” mixes beans from various origins (packaging does not identify from various origins (packaging does not identify where the beans are from)where the beans are from)

2.2. Liquid flavors of all kindsLiquid flavors of all kinds–Hazelnut, Irish –Hazelnut, Irish cream, French vanilla, Egg nog, English toffee, cream, French vanilla, Egg nog, English toffee, Amaretto—the list goes on and on—combine Amaretto—the list goes on and on—combine ‘style’ and ‘flavor’ creating an endless variety ‘style’ and ‘flavor’ creating an endless variety thus inventing their own specialty lines such as thus inventing their own specialty lines such as Starbuck’s Limited Reserve line and Black ApronStarbuck’s Limited Reserve line and Black Apron

► These flavors are not These flavors are not FROMFROM the beans, but the beans, but added to the coffeeadded to the coffee

Coffee: The Beverage of Coffee: The Beverage of PostmodernismPostmodernism

►The move to have such coffees were The move to have such coffees were initiated by small regional roasters and initiated by small regional roasters and not corporate giants, allowing not corporate giants, allowing consumers to buy directly from coffee consumers to buy directly from coffee plantation co-ops in areas such as the plantation co-ops in areas such as the Chiapas or GuatemalaChiapas or Guatemala

►Hence, new coffees more choices Hence, new coffees more choices increased diversity less increased diversity less concentration, new capitalism concentration, new capitalism == the the beverage of postmodernism beverage of postmodernism

► Our freedom to choose from a variety of coffees is Our freedom to choose from a variety of coffees is linked to corporations’ success in inventing linked to corporations’ success in inventing various styles of coffees to make us think that the various styles of coffees to make us think that the coffee we are drinking originates from a particular coffee we are drinking originates from a particular place (when it does not), leaving us unaware of place (when it does not), leaving us unaware of the disconnection in which we are participating: the disconnection in which we are participating: Indeed this is the beverage of US capitalism!Indeed this is the beverage of US capitalism!

► The choices made available to the us are shaped The choices made available to the us are shaped by traders and marketers using marketing by traders and marketers using marketing strategies based on class and generational strategies based on class and generational groupings. groupings.

Ethical CoffeeEthical Coffee►There was a rise of roasters and There was a rise of roasters and

distributors interested in social and distributors interested in social and environmental issues of coffeeenvironmental issues of coffee

►Formation of organizations such as Formation of organizations such as Equal Exchange and Coffee Kids (to Equal Exchange and Coffee Kids (to name a few)name a few)

►Equal Exchange, founded in 1986, is the Equal Exchange, founded in 1986, is the oldest and largest for-profit Fair Trade oldest and largest for-profit Fair Trade company in the US. company in the US.

Enter the Giants, or Rather, Enter the Giants, or Rather, StarbucksStarbucks

► Specialty coffee became such a viable Specialty coffee became such a viable commodity as a result of the changes commodity as a result of the changes so that large corporations began so that large corporations began producing their own specialty coffeesproducing their own specialty coffees

► This corporate production further This corporate production further demonstrates the coffee trade’s demonstrates the coffee trade’s relation to the capitalist mode of relation to the capitalist mode of productionproduction

► Aggressive roasters, i.e., Starbucks Aggressive roasters, i.e., Starbucks developed a national market for coffeedeveloped a national market for coffee

Coffee: Postmodern Coffee: Postmodern Beverage?Beverage?

►Starbucks launched Fair Trade Starbucks launched Fair Trade Certified coffee in 2000, which is Certified coffee in 2000, which is commendablecommendable

►But when we consider the “fair trade” But when we consider the “fair trade” prices received by small-scale coffee prices received by small-scale coffee growers relative to the multi-million growers relative to the multi-million dollar Starbucks industry…dollar Starbucks industry…

Tool of Post-modernism?Tool of Post-modernism?

ConclusionsConclusions►Thus the current class and cultural Thus the current class and cultural

identification of the yuppie culture’s identification of the yuppie culture’s consumption of such goods can be seen consumption of such goods can be seen as a nostalgic return to a time before as a nostalgic return to a time before mass society and consumptionmass society and consumption

►A symbolic inversion of the same A symbolic inversion of the same economic and political forces that economic and political forces that enabled this segment to be empoweredenabled this segment to be empowered

A Little Sales Pitch…A Little Sales Pitch…Please try to consume coffee that isPlease try to consume coffee that is::►ORGANICORGANIC—frees workers from the —frees workers from the

dangers of chemicals dangers of chemicals ►FAIR TRADEFAIR TRADE—to give farmers a fair —to give farmers a fair

price price ►SHADE GROWNSHADE GROWN—eliminates

deforestationdeforestation

► Choose the right bean: Your coffee Choose the right bean: Your coffee selection has the potential for powerful selection has the potential for powerful economic and environmental change. economic and environmental change.