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THE PLACE OF PAISLEY, PAISLEY ABBEY Abbey Close, Paisley

Conservation Plan

Simpson & Brown Architects with Addyman Archaeology

August 2010

Front cover: View into the cloisters from the west. Photograph taken March 2010 Simpson & Brown

The Place of Paisley, Paisley Abbey –Conservation Plan 1

CONTENTS 1.0 Executive Summary 3

2.0 Introduction 6 2.1 Objectives of a Conservation Plan 6 2.2 Study Area 6 2.3 Designations 7 2.4 Structure of the Report 8 2.5 Limitations 8 2.6 Project Team 8 2.7 Acknowledgements 8 2.8 Abbreviations 9

3.0 Historical Development of the Place of Paisley 11 3.1 Introduction 11 3.2 Paisley Abbey 1163-1560 15 3.3 Phase 1 Creation of the Place by the Hamiltons 1580s-1652 20 3.4 Phase 2 Remodelling by the Cochranes, Late 17th century 29 3.5 Phase 3 Alterations and Decline in Status, 1770s 45 3.6 Phase 4 Demolition of West Range, and Alterations, 1874-1904 53 3.7 Phase 5 Restoration and Alterations 1904-1956 67 3.8 Phase 6 Alterations, 1958-64 81 3.9 Phase 7 Minor Alterations, 1970s-1980s 85 3.10 Summary Chronology 88 3.11 Place of Paisley in 2010 91 4.0 Assessment of Significance 94 4.1 Introduction 94 4.2 Historical Significance 94 4.3 Architectural, Aesthetic and Artistic Significance 95 4.4 Social and Spiritual Significance 96 4.5 Archaeological Significance 96 5.0 Summary Statement of Significance 97

6.0 Grading of Significance 98 6.1 Introduction 98 6.2 Graded Elements 98 7.0 Conservation Issues & Policies 104 7.1 Introduction 104 7.2 Base Policies 105 7.3 Conservation Philosophy 105 7.4 Workmanship & Professional Advice 108

2 The Place of Paisley, Paisley Abbey –Conservation Plan

7.5 Interior Policies 108 7.6 Exterior Policies 113 7.7 Adaptation to New Use and Interventions to Existing Buildings 114 7.8 Access, Interpretation & Training 120 7.9 Archaeological Issues 121 7.10 Statutory and Non-Statutory Constraints 123 7.11 Maintenance 124 Appendices Appendix I A3 Drawings Appendix II Archaeological Evaluation Method Statement

Figure 1 Composite view of Paisley Abbey and Place of Paisley, 2010

Figure 2 View from south west, 2010 Figure 3 View from west, 2010

Figure 4 View from east, 2010 Figure 5 View from south east, 2010


1.0 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The Place of Paisley is of outstanding importance, both at a national and at a local level. The building is at the heart of the town of Paisley, inextricably linked to the history of its most important building, Paisley Abbey. The building is held in great local affection, and the restoration phases of the Abbey and the Place have been frequently funded by local efforts since the programme of restoration began in the 19th century. The Place is built on and embodies the arrangement of the cloister laid out by the monks of the Abbey in the 12th century, occupying the site of its south range and the southern part of its east side. The claustral arrangement survived overall until the demolition of the range bounding its west side in 1874. Since that time the fully enclosed cloister arrangement has been lost, being open to the street, Abbey Close to the west. Following further demolitions in the later 19th and 20th centuries the abbey complex is now isolated within the townscape of Paisley, surrounded by open parkland and managed motor and pedestrian traffic routes.

The north side of the cloister walk was recreated in the early 20th century, and once again functions as an integral part of the Abbey, permitting covered access to the abbey church and to the shop and café. The opportunity to expand and improve both visitor and congregation facilities by rebuilding on the site of the demolished west range and the west side of the cloister has been recognised.

This report sets out what is important about the existing south and east ranges of the Place in the context of the Abbey site, and seeks to explain the importance of the demolished west range and establish the potential archaeological importance of the site.

Figure 6 West tower with cloister beyond 2010

Figure 7 West elevation 2010


Figure 8 North elevation of south range 2010 Simpson & Brown

Figure 9 West elevation – north wing, south range, and south closet tower. Figure 10 South elevation of stair tower


Figure 11 South elevation, with (from left) stair tower, south range, closet tower and north wing. South elevation of St Mirrin’s Aisle to right, 2010 Simpson & Brown

Figure 12 East elevation of closet tower, south range, and north wing 2010 Simpson & Brown


2.0 INTRODUCTION

2.1 Objectives of a Conservation Plan

This conservation plan has been commissioned by Paisley Abbey Kirk Session to inform the future conservation, repair, use, management and alteration of the Place of Paisley.

The aim of this report is to inform future proposals for conservation, repair work and alterations to the building. This conservation plan has been prepared as an appraisal of the heritage value of the building and provides an examination of key conservation-related issues and guidelines regarding the site.

The conservation plan assesses and sets out in summary what is important about the Place of Paisley, based upon readily available information. The information gathered is then considered in an assessment of cultural significance, for the site as a whole and for its various parts, to be summarised in this report with a summary statement of significance.

The purpose of establishing the importance of the site is to identify and assess the attributes which make a place of value to our society. Once the heritage significance of the building is understood, informed policy decisions can be made which will enable that significance to be retained, revealed, enhanced or, at least, impaired as little as possible in any future decisions for the site. A clear understanding of the nature and degree of the significance of the building will not simply suggest constraints on future action, but it will introduce flexibility by identifying the areas which can be adapted or developed with greater freedom. It will, identify potential opportunities within the site.

From all of this information, it will be possible to establish a set of policies, or guidelines that will inform the future conservation, repair, management and use of the building according to best conservation practice.

2.2 Study Area

The Place of Paisley is located on Abbey Close, immediately adjacent to, and adjoining Paisley Abbey. It is grouped around the south and east sides of an open cloister and adjoins the St Mirin’s Aisle, or south transept, of the Abbey. Although the principal entrance is on the west elevation to Abbey Close, the functional entrance to the public areas on the ground floor is from the cloister, and the principal elevation is to the south, overlooking Cotton Street.

A considerable amount of development and redevelopment has taken place in the vicinity of the church, particularly during the 19th and early 20th century, with large-scale redevelopment and clearance of the area.

Apart from the Place of Paisley and the Abbey itself, the study area is dominated by the 1882 George A Clark Town Hall to the north-west and the large Modernist headquarters of Renfrewshire Council to the south-east.


Figure 13 Location Plan. OS/Bing.com

The study area is shown on Figure 2.

Figure 14 Study area highlighted in pink. Google earth, ed Simpson & Brown.

2.3 Designations

The Place of Paisley is a Category A listed building.

The site is not recognised as a Scheduled Ancient Monument (SAM), nor is it located in the immediate vicinity of a SAM.

The Place of Paisley is within the Paisley Town Centre Conservation Area.


2.4 Structure of the Report

This conservation plan follows the guidelines set out in the Heritage Lottery Fund’s Conservation Management Planning (April 2008) document, (which supersedes the Heritage Lottery Fund Conservation Management Plans Checklist, Conservation Management Plans Model Brief and Conservation Management Plans: Helping your application (2004)); Historic Scotland’s document Conservation Plans: A Guide to the Preparation of Conservation Plans; The Conservation Plan 5th Ed. (The National Trust of Australia, 2000) by James Semple Kerr; and The Illustrated Burra Charter: good practice for heritage places (Australia ICOMOS, 2004) by M Walker and P Marquis-Kyle. Reference is also made to the British Standard BS 7913 – Guide to the principles of the conservation of historic buildings (1998).

2.5 Limitations

Basic historical research has been carried out for this conservation plan, using readily available sources. It is likely that further research, particularly in the uncatalogued archive of Paisley Abbey would reveal more about the history of the building. It has not been possible to consult the archive of Paisley Museum during the time available for this report. The catalogue of the Abercorn papers in the Northern Ireland Archives has been consulted however further research in the archive has not been possible.

Considerable use has been made of the information collected in Paul McWilliams’ PhD Thesis ‘Paisley Abbey’ 1995. This included references from the Heritors Records of Paisley Abbey which are kept in the National Archives of Scotland, which have not been directly consulted for this report.

This conservation plan has been completed within a limited time period. It is possible that further information will become available after the completion of this report. Any new information should be acknowledged by the stakeholders and incorporated into future revisions of the conservation plan.

2.6 Project Team

The study team from Simpson & Brown comprised John Sanders, Tom Parnell, Cath Richards and Tom Addyman.

2.7 Acknowledgements

Simpson & Brown gratefully acknowledges the assistance provided by the following persons, archives and organisations during the completion of this report (in alphabetical order):

Hugh McBrien, archaeologist, WoSAS

Margaret Neil, architect

Robert Will, archaeologist, GUARD

Steve Clancy, archaeologist, Paisley


2.8 Abbreviations

The following abbreviations have been used throughout the report:

RC Renfrewshire Council

HS Historic Scotland

S&B Simpson & Brown Architects

RCAHMS The Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland

NLS National Library of Scotland

OS Ordnance Survey

NAS National Archives of Scotland

PAC Paisley Abbey Collection

PMus Paisley Museum

NGS National Galleries of Scotland

BL British Library

Unless otherwise stated, all photographs have been taken by Simpson & Brown.

Figure 15 Plan of ground floor, as existing 2010. S&B


Figure 16 Plan of first floor, as existing 2010. S&B

Figure 17 Plan of second floor, as existing 2010. S&B


3.0 HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE PLACE OF PAISLEY

3.1 Introduction

The Place of Paisley is a complex building. For this report, the development of the building has been grouped into seven phases, beginning with the late 16th century creation of the Place as a nobleman’s house. The fabric surviving from these phases is illustrated by coloured phase plans and elevations.

The phase plans show when the building was altered, however individual stones are in many cases much older, as much of the masonry used by the builders up to the 19th century has been salvaged from other parts of the monastic site.

Figure 18 Phase plan showing analysis of existing buildings including Paisley Abbey S&B


Figure 19 Ground floor phase plan showing analysis of existing fabric S&B

Figure 20 First floor phase plan showing analysis of existing fabric S&B


Figure 21 Second floor phase plan showing analysis of existing fabric S&B

Evidence

The earliest detailed information found for this report dates from 1691. Ironically, the most detailed historical information about the Place relates to the now demolished west range. It is possible that further research into surviving family papers of the Earls of Abercorn and the Earls of Dundonald may reveal more. A great deal of information about the historical development of the Place is contained within the existing fabric, and an analysis of this has been used, in conjunction with historical evidence, to establish a series of phases of development.

The earliest sketch of the Place dates from 1767, and shows only the east elevation of the south block, and the north east block. No detailed representation of the north, west, or south elevation is known from prior to the 1860s. No survey of the site is known to have survived from when the abbey lands were feued for development in the 1760s. General William Roy’s Great Map of the mid 18th century shows the Abbey lands and monastic wall, but without any useful detail of the Place.

A detailed description of the demolished west range of the Place survives, together with photographs, dating from its destruction in 1874. No historical survey of the surviving south block is known, and the earliest plan of the interior dates from 1910.


Figure 22 Historical analysis of north elevation, and cross section looking west S&B

Figure 23 Historical analysis of west elevation

Figure 24 Historical analysis of south elevation


Figure 25 Historical analysis of east elevation

3.2 Paisley Abbey 1163-1560

3.2.1 Foundation and Development

The Priory of Paisley was founded in 1163, by Walter Fitz-Alan, High Steward of Scotland, and ancestor of the Royal Family. Originally from Shropshire, he had been invited to become High Steward to David I, who granted him extensive lands in Renfrewshire. Having set up his headquarters at Renfrew, Walter sent for a Prior and twelve monks from the Cluniac Priory of Much Wenlock in Shropshire. He granted them land, fishings, and the existing church at Paisley, dedicated to St Mirrin. The family were new to Scotland, and there were no other Cluniac houses in the country. Paisley’s development and wealth sprang directly from its connection with what was to become the Stewart family1. Establishing and supporting a monastery was a recognised activity for a noble family, encouraged by the crown, particularly under David I. As the Stewarts strove to establish themselves within the Scots nobility the monastery of Paisley grew in wealth.

Cluniac order

The Abbey of Cluny was founded in the 10th century, and became the wealthiest and most powerful in Europe. Until the 16th century rebuilding of St Peter’s Rome the monastery at Cluny was the largest building in Europe. Unlike other Benedictine houses, which were largely autonomous, Cluny created a federated order in which the administrators of subsidiary houses served as deputies of the abbot of Cluny. Cluniac houses, being directly under the supervision of the abbot of Cluny, were mostly ‘priories’, not ‘abbeys’. All novices and those appointed to a high office in a Cluniac monastery had to travel to Cluny to be accepted by the abbot before taking their vows. All 35 of the English houses were priories. The abbey status of the two Scottish houses - Paisley and Crossraguel - was highly unusual. In total, out of over a thousand Cluniac monasteries in Europe there were only fifteen abbeys.

The wealth of the order allowed the monasteries to employ labour, so that the monks

1 R Oram, draft ‘Historical Appraisal and Research Prospects’ for excavations at Paisley Abbey


lives were spent in prayer, and considerable luxury. The order was associated with the highest quality of arts and architecture. Its power was latterly undermined by competition from less extravagant orders such as the Cistercians.

Paisley attracted significant gifts of land from the Stewarts, their supporters, and the crown. By 1219 the monastery had become so wealthy it was raised to the status of an abbey. In 1240 a daughter house was founded at Crossraguel, which in turn became an abbey in 1265. Crossraguel lay half way between Paisley and the pilgrimage site of Whithorn, and the two abbeys were also part of the pilgrims’ route, attracting further wealth. An assessment of ecclesiastical wealth in 1275 rated Paisley Abbey’s value at £2,666 (about £24M today), and it was eventually ranked as the 10th most important Cluniac Abbey in Europe2. By 1300 there were 25 monks.

Figure 26 Speculative reconstruction of Paisley Abbey, 16th century P McWilliams

3.2.2 Probable layout of monastery

With the exception of the abbey church, cloister and the St Mirren aisle (incorporating the north wall of the chapter house), little visible evidence survives for the layout of the monastery buildings. Excavations have revealed the site of the great drain (figure 27), which skirts the abbey complex to the south west, south, and south east. It is probable that some of the main buildings lay along it: the dormitory, latrine block (reredorter) and the infirmary. Other buildings would have included a gatehouse, granary, brewhouse, bakehouse and possibly a separate house for the abbot. The cloister buildings probably consisted of a refectory to the south, with an adjacent kitchen. The monks’ dormitory seems to have stretched to the south of the chapter house (adjoining the south wall of St Mirrin’s Aisle). The west range may have been a guest house for visiting pilgrims, or have provided accommodation for

2 J Malden ‘The Abbey and Monastery of Paisley’ 1996


the Stewart family when in residence. The ground floor level contained vaulted cellars for storing food and drink.

Figure 26 is a speculative reconstruction of the layout. This shows the kitchen block, with large chimneys, at the juncture of the west and south ranges of the cloister. The drawing includes an external stone staircase on the west range of the cloister which is now known to have been built in the 18th century (see below). The position of the detached buildings is speculative.

The abbey buildings were burned by the army of Edward I of England in 1307. The abbey was possibly particularly targeted because of its association with the Stewart family. An unknown amount of damage was done to the buildings, and only the

Figure 27 Plan of 1991 excavations showing drain (in red) GUARD, ed S&B

south wall and part of the west end of the present day church can be dated to before this time.

In 1308 Robert I was absolved by the Abbot of Paisley, under papal authorisation, for the murder of John Comyn. His only child, Marjorie, was buried at the abbey, with a monument built by her husband Walter Stewart3. This marriage had linked the Stewart family with the Royal family, and their son was to be Robert II. The abbey was the preferred location of royal tombs, with Robert III buried there in 1406.

The most significant individual abbots were Thomas Tarvas and George Schaw4, both of whom carried out extensive building works. George Schaw built a wall around the monastery grounds, which extended for over 3km, with niches containing statues. The wall survived until the late 18th century, and is shown on Roy’s Survey of 1747-55 (figure 63 below). James IV was probably and his brother the Duke of Ross was certainly educated at the monastery under Schaw, and the abbot remained a close adviser of the king, becoming Treasurer of Scotland 1493-7. A visit by the king is recorded in 1491, when he inspected the on-going building works and made a payment of drink-silver5 to the masons. Schaw was succeeded as abbot by his nephew, who continued the building programme. He hosted royal visits from James IV in 1504, and from James IV and Queen Margaret on their way to and from pilgrimage to Whithorn in 1507. Again, payment was made of drink-silver to the masons.

3 Various historical events are associated with the monastery, however some have little evidence to support them. The reputed death of Marjorie Bruce by a fall from her horse was first reported in 1660. It has been suggested that William Wallace was educated at the abbey. 4 Of the Sauchie family. 5 A gift of money to the masons.


Other than the masonry of the surviving abbey church, individual carved stones and other archaeological finds suggest the magnificence of the medieval monastery. These include the earliest example of polyphonic music in Scotland, found scratched on a piece of slate.

In 1561 a valuation of all Scottish monasteries was made, the Register of Assumptions. This put Paisley as the fourth highest assessment in the country, far ahead of Glasgow Cathedral and the four great Border Abbeys, Dryburgh, Jedburgh, Kelso and Melrose.

Figure 28 Speculative reconstruction of plan of Paisley Abbey, 16th century P McWilliams

3.2.3 The Place – Surviving Monastic Fabric

The surviving areas of monastic masonry within the Place of Paisley are highly fragmentary and damaged. With exceptions these remains are individually of moderate architectural significance though of considerable significance as a group due to the evidence they preserve of the former appearance of the cloister ranges.

In the typical monastic plan, Cluniac or otherwise, the south range of the cloister generally contained the refectory or ‘frater’, the monks’ communal eating hall. At Paisley the existing south range occupies the site of the frater but it only preserves isolated fragments of the monastic range, principally to the east. Much of the east gable wall of the range at ground and first floor levels retains medieval fabric, which has been demonstrably cut into by later features. Externally, medieval fabric is only visible at ground floor level, and is much patched and altered. The upper walling


was comprehensively refaced with recycled ashlar stonemasonry in the 17th century. Well-preserved areas of medieval walling with a regular construction of cubical blocks can be seen inside the east room on the north and east walls.

Figure 29 Phase plan of existing fabric of ground floor, showing monastic fabric only Simpson & Brown

The principal recognisable architectural survivals from the monastic period (excluding archaeological survivals below ground) are :

1 the north wall of the chapter house (ie the south wall of St Mirrin’s chapel); where visible externally this retains well-preserved capitals to narrow engaged trefoil columns whose scars are also visible

2 a fragment of the south wall (of the chapter house?)

3 fragments of monastic walling at the east end of the south range – its junction with the east range (dorter)

4 the south jamb of a broad arched entry at the east end of the lower level of the gallery – possibly the remains of the day stair to the monks’ dorter

- some fragments of monastic walling within the north and south walls of the south range at lower level – particularly at the west end of the north wall

5 at the west end of the north wall of the south range at lower level the east jamb of an arched entrance – this possibly in situ but heavily rebuilt; the entrance may itself incorporate two periods of work, the arched head probably being of late 15th century date


- the north jamb of a first floor entrance visible within the existing west gable wall of the south range

- the silhouette of the demolished west range where it meets the south side of the abbey church, including arch-rib springers for a vaulted passage at lower level, and stump of its east wall (re-formed into a buttress)

6 the relocated armorial of Abbot George Shaw (west wall of the stair tower at NW corner of south range)

7 an relocated arch rib, though perhaps very close to its original location (west wall of the stair tower at NW corner of south range); likely to have formed part of the vaulted passage to the cloister at the south end of the demolished west range

- roof structure of oak over the principal body of the south range – perhaps a salvaged monastic roof structure (refectory roof?)

There may be other monastic period features that survive but are as yet obscured by later works, internal wall linings and external re-facings.

The existing oak roof structure above the main body of the south range is a remarkable survival and has been assessed in detail for this Conservation Plan (see below section 3.3.3).

Preliminary archaeological evaluation on the site of the west range in June 2010 confirmed that substantial remains yet survive, particularly the cloister-facing wall of the range. The buried remains of western parts of the building appear to have been more heavily impacted, but not wholly eradicated by 19th century road widening.

3.3 Phase 1, Creation of The Place by the Hamiltons, 1560-1652

3.3.1 Reformation in Paisley

The first phase of the development of the Place as a nobleman’s mansion dates from after the Reformation of 1560.

Hamilton family, Earls of Abercorn

The last abbot was John Hamilton, illegitimate son of James, 2nd Earl of Arran, Regent of Scotland during the minority of Queen Mary, and created Duke of Chatelherault by Henry II of France. Hamilton was a strong supporter of Mary Queen of Scots, and baptised the future James VI with full Catholic rites. His nephew Claud Hamilton (c1539-1621) was the third son of James, 2nd Earl of Arran. Claud had gained the ‘temporal lordship’ (the income and use of the lands) of Paisley in 1553, and also supported the Queen, accompanying her at the Battle of Langside. After the fall of the Queen’s party he fled Scotland, returning in 1584 and gradually regaining his lands, including Paisley, where he was restored as Commendator in 1587. He was created Lord Paisley in 1594.

Lord Claud had four sons: James, the eldest, was created Baron of Abercorn in 1603, and in 1606 1st Earl of Abercorn (pronounced ‘Avercorn’), Baron of Paisley, Hamilton, Mountcastle and Kilpatrick. The 1st Earl was one of the promoters of the Plantation of Ulster, and was granted very extensive estates in Co. Tyrone. He died in 1618, and was succeeded by his son, James, who during his father’s lifetime had been created a peer of Ireland in 1616, by the title of Baron of Strabane. James, the 2nd Earl, was a


loyal supporter of Charles I. It is possible that the sale of the Paisley estate to the Earl of Angus in 1652 (for £160,000 Scots) may have been related to debts incurred during the Civil Wars.

The history of the Reformation in Paisley seems not to have included enthusiastic Protestant mobs, and instead the major damage to the church seems to have been caused by the collapse of the tower which Abbot Hamilton had been building earlier in the century.

The nave of the abbey church was converted into the parish church by walling up the western tower arch. The damaged eastern parts of the church were abandoned. The open arches to the St Mirrin Chapel were also walled up, creating a private place of worship for the Hamilton family, who seem to have remained Catholic at least for a time. Lord Hamilton’s mother was prosecuted for Catholic worship as late as 1621, but only, it seems, because she had attempted to interfere in the appointment of the town council. The people of Paisley did not apparently take to the reformed church, and the first three ministers appointed to the parish did not live there.

No historical account is known to survive which describes the monastery buildings, however it is clear that the cloister buildings were largely reconstructed into a private house for the Hamilton family. It is possible that Hamilton had begun to work on the buildings in the 1550s, however it is more likely works to the building began after 1587, and were possibly complete in time for a visit by James VI’s Queen, Anne of Denmark in 1597. The description of the royal visit is the earliest use of the name ‘Place of Paisley’. The great wall around the monastery land remained, and it is possible that many of the other monastic buildings were retained, as their uses were essentially secular. The granary was apparently converted into a court for Real Tennis, a ‘catchpole’6. Real Tennis was highly fashionable, and enjoyed royal favour.

Elsewhere in Scotland, other monasteries were coming into secular possession. Many were destroyed – Dryburgh, Melrose, Jedburgh were all reduced to ruin, although at Melrose the parish church was built within the body of the abbey church. At Newbattle, the richest monastic foundation in the Lothians, the vast abbey church was completely destroyed, and the house of the new owners, the Kerrs, was built on a relatively small area of the monastic buildings.

At some sites however the existing buildings were converted or rebuilt for secular use, rather than simply demolished. The best example of this was the cloister at Holyrood Abbey, converted into a royal palace for James VI (figure 30), however this largely disappeared in the 17th century rebuilding of the palace. Until the 19th century demolition of the west range, the cloister formed by the Place of Paisley was the best preserved example to survive in Scotland.

Figure 30 Palace of Holyrood 1647, Gordon of Rhothiemay NLS

6 J Malden ‘The Abbey and Monastery of Paisley’ 1996


A further royal visit to the Place took place in 1617, after James VI had acquired the English throne, and during his only subsequent return visit to Scotland. The king and queen visited the Place, but not the town of Paisley, and were entertained by an oration delivered in the Place by representatives of the town. This was given in ‘the large hall of Paisley’.

Historically the post-Reformation complex is of outstanding significance as a palace block of semi-Royal status. When built, it would have been one of a number of noble Renaissance houses of the period, with large windows, reflecting the confidence felt by its owners in a peaceful united kingdom, elaborate carved masonry, and (although there is no surviving evidence) formal gardens to be enjoyed in views from the house. Very few of these houses have survived in their original form, most like the Place of Paisley, were remodeled. Others survive as ruins.

The house remained in the Hamilton family until 1652. The family papers of the Abercorns are preserved in the Northern Ireland Public Records Office, and the detailed catalogue does not seem to include any historical records which might describe the new house. Further research may reveal more about this. A conjectural reconstruction of the layout has been attempted for this report.

3.3.2 Probable layout of the Place 1560-1652 Phase 1

The Place was rebuilt on the site of the monastic cloister, incorporating fragments and some walls of the monastery. The house was two storeyed, and basically L-shaped, following the plan of the south and west ranges of the cloister.

The current north east wing was not part of this phase (it dates from the late 17th century), and instead the chapter house seems to have been retained. The north wall of the chapter house survives as the south wall of the St Mirrin Aisle, (figure 31) and large inserted corbels at first floor level suggest the building was subdivided and perhaps incorporated into the mansion. It is possible that the Hamiltons retained the cloister itself, and they may have retained parts of the monks’ dormitory, stretching to the south of the chapter house.

Figure 31 Surviving medieval corbels of the chapter house on south wall of St Mirrin’s Aisle (above); note line of truncated secondary corbels just below the modern patchings.

The kitchen, linking the west and south ranges may also have been retained – there was certainly a building on this site, and this was probably the site of the main staircase. On the first floor of the south range the Hamiltons created a magnificent double-height Great Hall, possibly re-using the oak roof structure of one of the monastic buildings, perhaps from the refectory. The east wall of the south range contains evidence of an arched opening on the first floor, which may have been a great window – this would indicate that the monks’ dormitory had been demolished – or it may have formed a decorative proscenium arch above the dais of a High Table. The first floor level of the subdivided chapter house may have functioned as a withdrawing chamber from this Great Hall, linked by a short corridor, accessed


through what is now the entrance door to the Church Office. This hypothesis would explain the existence of a projecting wall course and two corbels on the west wall of the north block, which could have supported the roof of a corridor (figure 33). In houses of this type, a private chamber or ‘solar’ was usually provided leading off the hall, and the subdivided chapter house, with its beautiful vaulted roof, would have been a particularly fine example. The link between the hall and the chapter house may have been an extension off the surviving ground floor wallhead of the cloister arcade. Although the cloister arcade did not survive the Phase 2 remodelling of the late 17th century, there is no evidence to suggest it was removed during this phase.

Figure 32 Fragment of corbelling on west range, photographed in 1873 PAC

Figure 33 Detail of north wing, corbels

The internal arrangement of the ground floor of the south range in this period is unknown. The large windows to the south suggest interiors of high status, and there may have been timber subdivisions to create smaller rooms.

The ground floor of the west range was mostly of retained monastic fabric, with subdivisions built in. At the point where the west range adjoined the abbey church, the Hamiltons seem to have constructed a closet tower, overlapping the great west front of the church. This was later truncated, but a photograph from 1873 shows a detail of the fragment of decorative carved corbel from this closet tower, (figure 32) on the subsequently demolished west range.


Figure 34 South elevation, 2010

3.3.3 Surviving Fabric - Phase 1 1560-1652

Figure 35 Phase plan of existing fabric, showing Phase 1 fabric and missing elements S&B

The principal surviving fabric that can be identified from this era is the main body of the south range (figure 36). The south elevation is formal, with symmetrically arranged large windows at ground and first floor levels. These are notably detailed


with a pronounced hollow-moulded surround; their internal faces retain upper glazing grooves, evidence for fixed leaded lights and framed grazed/shuttered panels below. Four of these windows remain at upper and lower levels; a discontinuity of the masonry just beyond the western of these windows suggests the façade has been rebuilt from that point westwards, but that it had originally extended further.

Figure 36 Phase plan of south elevation

The existing east gable wall has been refaced externally at the upper levels. This intervention masks what appears to have been a substantial first floor window central to the gable wall. Parts of this can still be seen internally within the Abbey office – its northern jamb rises to a moulded capital that can just be made out, from which springs a broad arched head. This window or recess has clearly been cut into the surrounding medieval fabric and, if it was a window, it must have been inserted following the demolition of the dormitory range beyond.

The north wall of the main body of the south range appears to be of this period. It is rubble-built throughout. The masons generally employed reused medieval stone including some recognisable architectural fragments. Where individual blocks have been tooled or re-tooled this has been achieved using a narrow-headed chisel, a detail absent from medieval masonry at the site.

Features at the west end of the south range

At the existing western wall of the range a fragment of early walling survives, which rises to second floor level at its north end, suggesting there had been an early cross-wall at this point. Most of the rest of the gable seems to date to an 18th century rebuilding.

At first floor level the fragmentary walling incorporates an elaborately moulded jamb that rises from a chamfered stop. This seems to be the north side of a west-facing internal entrance (figure 40). Further fragments of the cross wall survive further to the south, where they are overlaid by the existing (late 17th century) stair tower. The first floor entrance to the stair tower was a pre-existing west-facing opening. This includes part of a moulded surround with a similar detail to the entrance to the north on the same level. Though truncated, this opening retains a hollow mould and filleted roll at the angle. Its lintel, of similar detail, has been reset. This suggests that at first floor level there were a pair of grand entrance doors into


the Great Hall, probably leading from a great staircase, as this is the most likely location for the stair.

Internally there are few features within the general walling that can be definitely attributed to this phase. Apparent exceptions include a series of substantial corbels in the north wall further to the east that had evidently supported the first floor structure.

Roof Structure

The existing roof structure above the main body of the south range is a remarkable survival. It evidently remained unrecognized until the second floor interiors were stripped of their linings in c1958. When revealed it was referred to somewhat uncritically as the refectory roof. Efforts were made both to preserve and display it; in the scheme of c1959-60 by Abercrombie and Maitland the structure was extensively repaired and subject to modification in a number of areas.

Figure 37 South range roof structure following the removal of linings looking east c1958

Figure 38 South range, north west corner of roof c1958

Analysis of roof structure

The roof is east-west aligned and of common rafter form fashioned of box-sectioned oak, consisting of 28 frames which rise from wall plates at the inner wall face on each side. The structure is of double-collared, double arch-braced construction, with the rafter feet tied to the plate and lower arch brace by means of a sole-piece arrangement. The framing is fully morticed and tenoned, the braces chase-tenoned, and pegged. From below the arch-bracing seems of near barrel-vaulted profile, though actually it rises to a shallow apex point.

Each frame has carpenters’ assembly marks on its upper, east-facing side. Though the marks are consistent within each frame, overall they are not in continuous sequence between frames, rather individual groups of marked frames are in sequence. Thus from west to east : [-] , (I, II, III, IIII, V, VI, VII, VIII) and (XXI, [XXII], XXIII, XXIIII, XXV, XXVI, XXVII), and (IX, X, [XI], XII, XIII, XIIII, XV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, and XX), (figure 39).


Figure 39 Schematic plan of roof structure of south range (not to scale)

This mis-sequence suggests the roof structure may not be in its original location. This possibility is further confirmed by the position of the rafter ends on the north pitch which over-hang the outer face of the wall head. It is also suggested by the sections of wall plate; where they are visible on the north side two sections display assembly marks that correspond to the frames, but a further section of early wall plate (at frames XXV – XXVII / VIIII - XII) crosses the junction between groups of marks but bears no marks itself.

It is possible that this is a reused monastic roof structure, possibly that of the refectory itself. However this would only likely be confirmed by dendrochronological (tree-ring) dating. Whether or not the roof structure was of open framing in the medieval period, it is perhaps likely that as reused in the 16th century it was boarded and painted.

The ‘large hall of Paisley’?

The roof structure was clearly intended to span a large, unified interior space. The existing first and second floor room arrangement is a secondary insertion of the late 17th century. This insertion necessitated considerable modification to its structure. When juxtaposed with the position of the arched opening within the east gable wall the relationship of roof to interior space becomes readily apparent – a single commodious first floor chamber that was open to the roof structure. Given that there is so little remaining monastic fabric within the main walls of the south range and that the roof structure appears to be re-set, it seems that the chamber was a Post-Reformation creation, possibly the ‘large hall of Paisley’ described as the scene of a royal visit in 1617.


Figure 40 Section facing east across the south range, showing the main body of the range with early oak roof and related broad arched opening below at first floor level. To left, late 17th century lean-to two-storied gallery range Addyman Archaeology

The two first floor entrances whose remnants survive in the west gable have ornamented, west-facing surrounds that evidently provided access to the west end of the hall interior, evidently at its low end as opposed to the high end near the large window or arched recess to the east. In the absence of further surviving evidence the arrangements to the west can only be guessed at, though some fundamental functions were clearly necessary. These included the principal public access (perhaps the entrances faced into an antechamber or passage), and the usual service arrangements of a buttery, pantry and kitchen, and, in the case of Paisley, a link to the upper chambers of the west range.

In the monastic period it is probable that the principal access to the monks’ refectory had been by a stair off the cloister walk to first floor level; it is possible that the Post-Reformation remodeling may have retained the arrangement.


3.4 Phase 2, Remodelling by the Cochranes, Late 17th Century

3.4.1 Alterations to the building

The three ranges of the pre-existing monastic and early post-Reformation Place of Paisley complex were transformed in the 17th century. The mansion was sold by the Earl of Angus in 1653, a year after he had bought it, and bought by a rising man, William Cochrane, soon to be 1st Earl of Dundonald.

The principal effect of these works was the formation of a grand sequence of rooms at first floor level. This included a great hall and principal dining room within the west range (the main public rooms), an enfiladed state apartment within the south range with a new two-storied gallery along its north side, and a further chamber of high status in the east range. Externally it seems that the south elevation was remodeled to from a grand garden frontage framed by closet towers at either end, with an ashlar re-fronting of the east gable associated with the formation of an arcaded balustraded viewing platform and garden stair. The east range (probably the chapter house) to the south of the St Mirrin Aisle was rebuilt in the form of a four storey rubble-built house with loft above, with characteristic steep-pitched, crow-stepped roofs, and a stone turnpike stair was formed at its junction with the south range. This structure remains well preserved. The physical evidence suggests there was more than one individual phase of construction within this period, and the south east closet tower and a suggested matching tower to the south west may have been secondary additions. For ease of understanding however, the late 17th century work has been grouped in a single phase.

Figure 41 Block plan showing south west closet tower and the addition to the north side of the south range S&B


The former appearance of the building in this period can be reconstructed in detail from historic sources, including an inventory of contents, and from the remaining fabric. However in terms of the surviving building, the west range and west part of the south range are missing, and the interiors have to a considerable degree been lost.

Cochrane family, Earls of Dundonald

William Cochrane (1605-1685), 1st Earl of Dundonald, was an army officer and politician, serving the Royalist cause during the Civil Wars. Born in Ayrshire, Cochrane was educated at Paisley Grammar School and Glasgow University. He had been christened William Blair but adopted his wife’s surname, Cochrane, and inherited her family’s estate near Paisley. He became a major landowner in Ayrshire and Fife and represented the former at the Scottish parliament in 1641, when he was knighted by King Charles I. He was granted the title Lord Cochrane of Dundonald in 1647 and was created Earl of Dundonald and Lord Cochrane of Paisley in 1669.

The 1st Earl died in 1686, and was succeeded by his grandson, the second Earl (c1660-1690), who was a member of the Scottish Privy Council. The successors to the 1st Earl tended to die young, and it seems plausible to suggest the extensive remodelling may have been a feature of the 1st Earl’s tenure of the building, with subsequent alterations on a smaller scale.

The third Earl (1686-1705) died unmarried at an early age and was succeeded by his younger brother, the fourth Earl (1687-1720). The 4th Earl sat in the House of Lords from 1713 to 1715. When he died the titles passed to his son, the fifth Earl (1708-1725), who died unmarried at the age of sixteen.

On his death, the line of the second Earl failed and the titles passed to his first cousin once removed, the sixth Earl (1702-1758). He was succeeded by his son, the 7th Earl (1729-1758). The 7th Earl fought in the Seven Years’ War and was killed at the Battle of Louisburg in 1758.

On his death this line of the family also failed and the titles were inherited by his second cousin once removed, the 8th Earl (1691-1778). This Lord Dundonald sat as Member of Parliament for Renfrewshire.

The Place of Paisley, including the demolished western range, were described in 19th century and later sources as having been built by the Cochranes. This was suggested both by the character of the surviving historic interiors, an impressive suite of panelled rooms with more or less elaborate cornicing and ceiling plasterwork, and by a dated dormer pediment of 1675. The dormer pediment was lost at an unknown date and the only 17th century dormer is one of those on the south side of the south range and those on the crowstepped upper parts of the north east range – a number of these survive but many have been renewed.

Slezer’s view of Paisley in 1693 (figure 42) shows the Abbey church surrounded by buildings, with mature trees, and to the right of the picture a portion of Abbot Schaw’s wall. The drawing suggest that although much of the Abbey church remained ruined, a number of other buildings had either survived or been built within the monastic precinct. The buildings of the village are in the foreground – they are mostly single storey cottages with small trees nearby. Across the river the


buildings are higher, with regular arrangements of chimneys and windows and the trees are larger, offering a clear contrast of humble and aristocratic dwellings.

Figure 42 Detail of Slezer’s View of Paisley 1693 NLS

The survival of an inventory of the house contents made in 16917 gives a glimpse of the opulence of the mansion at this date. It names the following rooms:

great room the Countesses studie

dining room the middle room in the high gallerie

Mrs Stuart’s chamber the great hall

the wardrop the little dining room

the painted room the nurserie, wher the children are

the green room the room next the green room

the room above the green room the room next the room above the green room

Mr Cochrane’s chamber the blue room in the laigh gallerie

kitchen the middle room in the laigh gallerie

the stair foot room the old dining room

Among the more notable contents were items of considerable luxury:

ane japan cabinet and glass ane black ibonie cabinett

gilded leather hangings [15] pieces of Arras [tapestry]

red damasse bed 6 kane chairs

18 carpett chairs ane table carpet

ane purple bed [361 pounds of] peuther [pewter]

ane sarge bed, with silk slips, line with red and whit sesnett

One entry refers to the ‘dining room of [off] the end of the great hall’ and another ‘the great room of [off the] dining room.’ This seems to refer to the two largest rooms

7 In a notice titled Plenishing of the Earle of Dundonald’s House at Paslay transcribed from the original document, History of the Counties of Ayr & Wigton, vol II, 522-523


within the house (following the subdivision of the phase 1 Great Hall), those on the first floor of the west range.

These rooms are shown in plan on the 1858 Ordnance Survey (figure 43). Of the other rooms the ‘laigh gallerie’ and the ‘high gallerie’ are self-explanatory as the lower and upper levels of the lean-to structure against the north side of the south range – the upper chamber still referred to as the ‘Gallery’. The location of the ‘middle room’ off each of the galleries is also self-explanatory. The pairings of ‘the green room’ and ‘the room next the green room,’ and ‘the room above the green room’ and ‘the room next the room above the green room’ may suggest a room and closet arrangement that would correlate well with the existing Church Office and the Minister’s Office,

Figure 43 Detail of 1st Edition OS, with first floor plan of west range 1854 NLS

and the corresponding rooms on the floor above – the drawing room and existing archive; however there may also have been a similar pairing of rooms at the missing west end of the range.

One of the more flamboyant figures of 17th century Scotland, Viscount Graham of Claverhouse, known as ‘Bonnie Dundee’, is connected with the Place during this period through his marriage with Jean Cochrane, daughter of the Earl of Dundonald.

3.4.2 Phase 2, Late 17th century – Surviving Fabric

North East Wing

The present north east block is a well-preserved, distinct lodging occupying the south end of the east range of the cloister. It was built on the site of the western parts of the medieval chapter house and extends to the line of the cloister walk. Its south and particularly its north walls incorporate the medieval fabric of the previous building. The structure is of four full storeys and a loft. It is rubble-built, though generally employing rectangular blocks of recovered monastic masonry of varying size; dressings at the openings and wall angles are neatly cut. Openings are generally detailed with a chamfer at the inner angles. The walls rise to crow-stepped gables rising from ogee skews-puts. The double-pitched roofs are notably steep. The upper floor is detailed with pedimented dormers.


Figure 44 East elevation showing building phases

A short jamb in-filled the gap between the main part of the north-east block and the south range. This contains a stone newel stair providing access between ground, first and second floor level of both the lodging and the south range. Internally it is apparent that the range retains much of its original overall relationship to the surrounding complex. It seems that the first floor formed a horizontal continuation of the principal apartment within the south and the lost west ranges, while the third and attic floors were accessed separately, as they are still (now the Church Officer’s apartment), and seem to have been self-contained.

Little of the historic interiors now remain. At first floor level much of the structure is occupied by a substantial panelled room (figure 45). While the panelling itself is largely of late 18th century date the handsome bolection-moulded fireplace in the north wall is late 17th century and indicates an interior of status – evidently a continuation of the principal apartment that existed within the adjacent south range. Figure 45 White Room 2010

The roof structure above the range, which is contemporary with its construction, is pine.


South Range

Figure 46 South elevation of south range, showing phases S&B

Figure 47 North elevation of south range, showing building phases

The south range was clearly remodelled by the Cochranes, rather than rebuilt. At this date the existing structure was largely a Post-Reformation rebuilding by the Hamiltons, incorporating some monastic fabric at its east and west ends. The principal alterations were the subdivision of the high-ceilinged first floor Great Hall into two stories; the insertion of a sequence of rooms formed by transverse sub-divisions on each level; the addition of a closet tower to the south east; and the creation of a lean-to gallery at ground and first floor levels along the north side.

Subdivision of South Range

The ground floor level of the main block of the south range was subdivided by two masonry cross walls, each with fireplaces detailed with large angle rolls. The arrangement of this large area in Phase 1 is not known, and it is possible the Phase 2 cross-walls replaced less substantial timber divisions. A new access was formed from the eastern room to the new-built gallery passage along the north side, and a further entrance formed into the new closet tower to the south east.


In what had been the Great Hall, a new floor was inserted, and suites of rooms were created in the newly-formed first and second floor levels. This operation involved the construction of substantial masonry transverse walls within the pre-existing hall interior, upon the line of those on the floor below. The new sub-divisions extended to the roof apex, each containing multiple flues and surmounted by chimneys of good ashlar stonemasonry. At first floor level the three principal rooms were arranged with entrances running enfilade along the south frontage – a typical arrangement of the principal apartments within great houses of the late 17th century.

Externally, the east gable wall was refaced in ashlar stonemasonry at the upper levels and windows were inserted at both levels. The broad arched opening at the east end of the hall, presumably a window, was filled in at this stage. On the south elevation, the well-appointed east chamber was additionally lit by a 3-windowed gablet8. inserted into the pre-existing roof. The structure was supported by a substantial trimmer beam.

Figure 48 Lugged architrave, entrance to west room

Figure 49 West room, first floor, late 17th century joinery and fireplace

The principal interiors were fully lined out and provided with bolection-moulded fireplace surrounds of fine-grained sandstone. The walls were adorned with richly detailed full-height panelling below decoratively plastered ceilings. A number of entrances retain bolection-moulded architraves that are characteristically lugged (figures 48-49). The fireplaces remain throughout. Including rooms in the south closet tower, there are four fireplaces at first floor and three (visible) at second floor level within the south range. Only limited woodwork survives however, in the central and, particularly, the western first floor rooms. The western room was extensively repaired in the early 20th century. Only one plastered ceiling of the period now remains, this in the closet tower.

The appearance of three other interiors is known from two sketches (figures 50-51). These show the first and second floor eastern rooms, and the third floor room of the closet tower.

8 This was replaced as part of the 1958 works.


Figure 50 Second floor, east room, now Sitting Room, Macgregor Chalmers 1913 PAC

Figure 51 First floor east room, now Church Office, Macgregor Chalmers 1913 PAC

Lean-to on the north - ‘laigh gallerie’ and ‘high gallerie’

A two storey lean-to range was added to the south range along its north side, at the same time as the range was subdivided. The roof of this extended over the north pitch of the south range in a continuous cat-slide (figure 52). The roof structure, of pinewood, is largely intact.

The addition corresponds to the position of the former south cloister walk though it seems to retain no pre-existing masonry.

Figure 52 Sketch of south range from west, 1880s MacGibbon & Ross

The cloister-facing frontage is regularly arranged, with equally spaced windows at two levels, the upper ones breaking the eaves and detailed with cat-slide roofs (figure 52).

Figure 53 Looking east along the first floor ‘high gallerie’, 2010

Figure 54 Looking east along the ground floor ‘laigh gallerie’ , with modern ceiling 2010


The lean-to structure provided service access at the ground floor level and a gallery-like passage at the first floor. This gave direct access between the east, south and west ranges which was independent of the enfiladed intercommunication of the principal rooms of the south range. The three rooms of the first floor each had a door into the gallery.

The gallery roof structure is combed on both sides. This was structurally unnecessary on the south side, and suggests a specific purpose, probably an ornate plastered gallery ceiling. The timbers were not meant to be seen but would have been covered by timber boards or plaster. Given the evidence for finishes elsewhere, the walls in the gallery were doubtless paneled throughout.

Closet Tower

A three-storied closet tower was added at the south east corner of the south range. As can be clearly seen both internally and externally this structure abuts the pre-existing south front of the range. New entrances were broken through at each level. Externally the tower is built of good ashlar – salvaged medieval stone. In contrast to openings of this general phase elsewhere, which have chamfered inner angles, those of the tower have neat rounded margins.

The structure rises to a crow-stepped gable on the south side with hollow-moulded skew-putts.

Figure 55 Second floor room in closet tower, drawn c1913 Macgregor Chalmers PAC

Internally the south wall contains bolection-moulded fireplaces on the first and second floors. Of the interior schemes the most significant remnant is the aforementioned richly moulded plaster ceiling in the second floor room. This a remarkable survival and very characteristic of the later 17th century Baroque. The room was originally panelled (figure 55), but this has been lost.

Figure 56 Plaster ceiling in second floor of closet tower 2010

Figure 57 Detail of plaster ceiling 2010

Garden Elevation to South East


The lower walling of the east front of the south range is notably coarse, this in great contrast to the walling above, which is of neatly tooled regular ashlar stonemasonry. A sketch dated 1776 shows a stair rising along the side of the closet tower, and a stone-built loggia-arcade and balustraded balcony above that continues along the frontage and then returns to the east at the re-entrant with the ‘chapter house’ range (figure 58). The break in the masonry corresponds with the evidence of this sketch. A horizontal section of scarring along the wall face at first floor level must mark the point where the paving of the balcony ran in.

Figure 58 Sketch from south east showing external stair, arcades and balcony, 1776 NGS

The archaeological evidence suggests this structure formed part of the later 17th century remodelling of the Place of Paisley. It was clearly intended to be accessed from the principal apartments (from the gallery) and provided both a garden entrance and an ornate viewing platform above the garden grounds to the south and east.

South Range – Discussion

It is clear from the historic and archaeological evidence that the south range extended further to the west in the late 17th century than at present. This was further demonstrated when footings were revealed during road widening in 1874 – these seem to have lain close to the line with the existing south frontage of the range. The existing west gable wall appears to have been formed in its present state in the later 18th century; it is likely that the south west angle of the cloister quadrangle was removed when the surrounding streets were laid out in the 1770s.

The missing south west angle possibly contained the principal staircase from ground to first floor – much as it had perhaps done in the 16th century. It is possible that there had been a second projecting closet tower at the south west angle of the complex to balance the one that survives at the south east angle. The south range would have thereby presented a formally arranged south-facing garden frontage that may have overlooked an equally formal garden layout, similar to the arrangement of the south range at Drum Castle, for example.


The arrangement of rooms within seems to have been typical of aristocratic house planning of the later 17th century whereby principal rooms were arranged in a formal enfiladed sequence of apartments. This plan was derived from the French scheme of state apartments, and was particularly fashionable in Scotland. In this case it is likely that access was from the west, with a public stair rising to a vestibule in the lost western end. This in turn led to a public or dining room (the surviving western room). Typically the next room was a withdrawing room, then the principal bedchamber. The eastern room is connected at the north east to the turnpike stair – a back-stair, often located near to the bed-chamber. The final room in the sequence would have been the closet chamber to the south east. A very similar first floor apartment of the period was recently recorded and analysed in detail at Queensberry House in Edinburgh, the former residence of Lord Hatton and the Dukes of Queensberry.

West Range

It suited the antiquarian David Semple, who advocated its demolition, to suggest in the 1870s that the west range was largely the work of the Cochrane Earls of Dundonald and thus both ‘modern’ and inferior to the architecture of the abbey church that it obscured. However this was manifestly not the case. Externally it seems from Semple’s own description and from surviving photographs that only the upper parts of the west front, the inserted upper floor windows on the east front, and parts of the upper walling at the south gable as then remaining, actually date to the time of the Cochranes. The remainder of the range was clearly medieval or early post-Reformation in date.

Figure 59 Vaulted ground floor of west range, during demolition 1874 PAC

Figure 60 Oblique view of west front of west range, with PAC

It is unclear whether the sequence of four secondary barrel-vaulted cellars were inserted at this stage or as part of the Phase 1 late 16th century works. Whichever was the case it is clear that this formed the platform for the remodelling at first floor level in the 17th century. It is possible that the first floor cross wall shown on the 1858 OS map was inserted at this stage. The upper floor interiors of the western range were described in some detail by David Semple before its demolition in 1874. The floor was divided into two chambers, that to the north measuring 25’ (E/W) by 28’with

‘two windows in the front and two in the back wall. The wainscoting, pilasters, and stucco finishing, was in the style prevalent at the time of the


union of Scotland and England. It must have been a splendid apartment in those days …

The south division was a larger apartment [24’ by 39’] … and was finished in the same superior style as the other. The fire places of each division were … 7 feet wide, and the height from floor to ceiling of both were 13 feet 6 inches.9’

In character these interiors seem to have been very similar to those of the south range as already described. The window visible in the 1870s photographs are of similar chamfered detail as those within the south and east ranges at this period.

3.4.3 Paisley in the 18th Century

The Place remained in the possession of the Earls of Dundonald throughout the first half of the century, a time of rapid alteration in architectural fashion. The Paisley estates were extensive, and it is possible that the Place itself may have begun seem more an opportunity for commercial development than a principal family seat.

Expansion of Paisley in the 18th century

The status and value of the Place as the mansion house of a noble family depended on its position outwith the town, surrounded by a walled enclosure of orchards and gardens. The industrial development of the town and the resulting increase in population led directly to the decline in the status of the Place. From being a small burgh on the west of the River Cart, Paisley grew in both size and wealth in the 18th and early 19th centuries, eventually becoming the third largest town in Scotland. The increase in wealth came from cloth manufacture, including thread, silk and linen.

The population increase was dramatic. In 1695, there had been 4,375 inhabitants and in 1755 6,799. By 1782, this had risen to 17,780 and ten years later to 24,592. In 1805 the population stood at 35,000. Three new churches were built between 1736 and 1784, the Laigh, Middle, and High Churches. The increase in linen manufacture can be judged in yards: In 1768 529,022 yards were manufactured; by 1784 output had leapt to 1,922,020 yards.

3.4.4 The Place 1700-1770s

It is possible that some alterations may have been made to the Place by the successor Earls of Dundonald. The panelling in the first floor of the north east wing, and possibly the subdivision of the space, dates from the 18th century. The description of the interiors of the west range in 1874 (see above) as being ‘in the style prevalent at the time of the union of Scotland and England’ suggests they may have been refitted in the very early 18th century, equally however the terms are sufficiently vague to cover the style of the late 17th century.

As early as 1751, the 7th Earl of Dundonald began to sell off parts of the Abbey lands and assets, however the significant alterations to the building which comprise Phase 3 seem to have taken place later in the century, probably from the late 1770s. Four acres were feued in 1751 by public auction. The Earl died in 1758 and his successor the 8th Earl, who lived at Culross Abbey in Fife, had the land surveyed for sale in 1760. In 1763 the Abbey Gatehouse was demolished and the Abbey Bridge was built, using stone from monastic remains. Prior to this the only crossing was the bridge to the north of the abbey, shown on Roy’s Survey.

9 1874, 23


In 1764 the 8th Earl of Abercorn bought back the Paisley estates, which his ancestor had sold a hundred years previously. The family had extensive properties in all three kingdoms.

8th Earl of Abercorn

The 8th Earl of Abercorn was a patron of the arts, a builder, and the consolidator of the family’s property and influence. His father had been a Fellow of the Royal Society, writing treatises on harmony and loadstones. In 1745 the 8th Earl added the Duddingston estate, Midlothian to the family properties, and commissioned a classical mansion there from the architect Sir William Chambers (figure 61).

Figure 61 Duddingston House NMRS

Roy’s Survey of 1747-55 (figure 62) shows the town prior to its expansion across the river. At this date, a few buildings are shown to the north and south of the Abbey, but the majority of the buildings were to the west, in the original medieval burgh.

Figure 62 Roy’s Survey 1747-55 BL Figure 63 Detail showing Abbey buildings and enclosure, Roy’s Survey 1747-55 BL

Roy’s Survey (figure 63) shows the Abbey gardens laid out in a fashionable formal arrangement of avenues, with dense plantations of trees to the south east of the buildings, probably representing orchards. The gardens were enclosed by the monastic wall. The nave formed the parish church at this date, and the entrance gate seems to have been at the point nearest the bridge which gave access to the town to the west. Figure 73 (below) shows a paved footpath leading to the north side of the church in 1791. To the west of the cloister, which is just discernible on this map, a row of small buildings are shown, running north-south, with the southern end adjoining the river bank. Outwith the abbey walls to the south, were further small buildings. To the east, north east, and south east was farmland.


To the north of the Abbey enclosure, a strip of ground to the east of the River Cart had been laid out in a formal arrangement (figure 64). A particularly wide avenue is shown, aligned with the Place. It is not clear what view would have terminated the avenue at the north end, however it is highly likely to have been focussed on a hill or other feature. It is probable that the avenue had been laid out to provide a landscape feature in views from the Place. This may have been done as part of the Phase 2 remodelling of the late 17th century, or it may have been laid out by one of the later Dundonald Earls in the early 18th century.

Figure 64 Roy’s Survey 1747-55 BL

An approach led from the north, just across the bridge from the town. North of the wall a street has been laid out, with small enclosed plots behind the houses. The layout of this street persisted after the redevelopment of the area.


Figure 65 View of Paisley from the East, Robert Paul 1767 RCA

Robert Paul’s view of Paisley from the east (figure 65) shows the landscaped setting of the Abbey in 1767. Just beyond the building is the town, with the tall spire of the High Church (built in 1756), housing and mills.

3.4.5 Paisley in the Late 18th Century

The first plan of the town was drawn up in 1781 by Semple (figure 66). It shows how the new town had begun to expand on the eastern side of the River Cart, with small plots of ground in different ownerships. The abbey gardens, just across the river by the ‘old’ bridge, and after 1763 linked by the Abbey Bridge, were an obvious site for the expansion of the town.

The Renfrewshire historian George Robertson described the expansion of the 1770s:

‘on the great increase of inhabitants, from the rapid extension of trade, a new town was laid out to the eastward, on the extensive plain near the old Abbey, which was till then included within a high wall, and formed the ancient and very extensive garden of that celebrated monastery. The plan of this new quarter is more modern; the streets are broader, and laid off in straight lines; and the houses are constructed with more regard to uniformity’.

Paisley at this date was, ‘with the exception of Edinburgh and Glasgow, …the largest and most populous town in Scotland10’

By this date no trace of the Abbey walls was shown. Abercorn had the Paisley estate feued for development, but retained ownership of the Place, which was let to tenants. The stones of the monastic wall were offered to developers, and it is highly likely that some of the houses which were built in the new town contained monastic stonework.

10 G Robertson ‘History of the Shire of Renfrew’ 1811


‘owing to the increased prosperity of the burgh, houses were in great demand, and the whole of the ancient park and gardens of the monastery was laid off on a regular plan of feuing. A number of steadings were feued out for building purposes in 1778, and within three years from that date, no fewer than eighty-three houses had been erected11.’

The names of the streets in the new town reflect the industrialisation of the area clearly: Gauze St, Incle St (a type of braid), Silk St, Thread St and Cotton St. Experts in silk weaving were brought up from Spitalfields, and soon silk production in Paisley was outstripping London. In 1805 29,000 people were employed in manufacturing industries, the majority making muslin, cotton spinning and thread making.

Paisley’s thriving economy engendered great civic pride, and new civic buildings were built to improve the lives of the inhabitants and to celebrate the generosity of the industrialists. These included County Buildings and a town hospital built in 1752. Semple’s map (figure 66) included elevations of these buildings, together with the semi-ruined Abbey (top right of map), shown with vegetation sprouting from the gable.

Figure 66 Plan of Paisley Semple, 1781 PAC

11 WM Metcalfe ‘History of Paisley 600-1908’ 1909


3.5 Phase 3 Alterations and Decline in Status, 1770s

3.5.1 Alterations to the Place

Although the town was flourishing, the condition and status of the remaining buildings of the Abbey, including the Place, had deteriorated. In the 1770s the heritors considered demolishing the Abbey12. They were instead persuaded by the Minister, Rev Robert Boog, to carry out the first of several restorations of the Abbey.

The amenity value of any gentleman’s house depended largely on its setting of gardens and landscape, both of which the Place had lost.

‘The late Earl of Dundonald demolished the ancient gateway, and, by feuing off the immediately adjoining grounds for building, entirely changed the appearance of the Place. As it was thus rendered totally unfit for a family residence, it has since that time been let out into separate dwellings, and is now in a very mean and almost ruinous state. ’13

Figure 67 Sketch of Paisley Abbey and Place from the south east 1776 NGS

The earliest detailed image of the Place dates from 1776, probably just prior to the alterations, (figure 67). It shows the eastern end of the building, with the north wing against the south wall of the St Mirrin’s Aisle. Beyond are the remains of the choir, and the nave, then in use as the parish church.

No contemporary descriptions of the late 18th century alterations to the Place are known. An early 20th century history, referring to a contemporary manuscript14, states:

‘Great changes were also going on in the Place of the Abbey… The best of the furniture was removed; the rest was sold to the highest bidder. The “hall” was

12 Although the St Mirin Chapel with its remarkable echo, was known as the ‘Sounding Aisle’, was regarded as a tourist attraction and visited by Thomas Pennant on his ‘Tour’ 13 Statistical Account 1792 14 WM Metcalfe ‘History of Paisley 600-1908’ 1909, refers to manuscript of ‘Accompts of Charge and Discharge between the Right Honourable Thomas, Earl of Dundonald, and James Kibble, writer in Paisley, his factor, with regard to his intromissions with the Rents and feu duties of his Lordship of Paisley for the Crofts and years 1757, 1758, 1759 and 1760, ad arrers of Crofts 1756 and precedings’ . Location of manuscript not given.


unroofed and taken down15. Doors were knocked out in the walls of the abbey, and other doorways were built up. The officers of the town went through the streets of the burgh proclaiming with tuck of drum that lodgings of two and three rooms were to be had in the abbey house, and the Place where kings, lords, and bishops had formerly been wont to gather, fell from its high estates and became crowded with all manner of tenants.’

The block linking the west and south ranges was demolished, and the west gable of the south elevation was rebuilt, with a staircase jamb replacing the block that is assumed to have been the location of the great stair of the previous phases. The west range also gained an external stone stair. It is likely that there were alterations to divide the building into smaller lots for letting to individuals and families, although in the surviving south range there are no surviving structural subdivisions. Fireplaces were added in the two galleries on the north wall, and three chimneys are shown on a 19th century view (figure 95 below).

Figure 68 Staircase jamb on west gable of south range, also accessing west range PAC

Figure 69 West elevation, phase plan showing late 18th century rebuilding S&B

There were possibly further divisions in the 19th century, which are discussed below (section 3.6.3).

In this conservation plan we have suggested the Phase 2 remodelling included a south west closet tower to match that to the south east. If so, this was also demolished during the Phase 3 alterations.

Some of the earliest information about the west range relates to alterations to the Abbey in 1788 as part of the Rev Boog’s restoration, including the removal of masonry which obscured the west front of the Abbey church (figure 70). The entry to the church was from the north, and the elaborate west front seems by this date to have become disused and disregarded, with a thatched cottage built directly in front of it. The notes on the plan read ‘1, Door built up, proposed to be opened, but access to it obstructed by the Abbey 4 thatch house – 2 Windows, built up and proposed to opened – 3 Windows, built up, proposed to be opened but obstructed by the Abbey house. 4.4 The projections, wished to be removed. 5. Wall to be built with a proper Stairs to Abbey house’.

15 Given the recorded continued existence of the large rooms of the west range until 1874, this may be an exaggeration.


Figure 70 Plan of demolition of ‘Thatch house’ Rev Boog 1788 PMus

The plan shows an extension at the south west angle of the west range which extended the full width of the south aisle of the abbey church. This structure, described as ‘The projection, wished to be removed’ is shown with comparatively substantial walls and with an entrance at its re-entrant with the main body of the west range.

A fragment of an elaborately decorated corbelled projection at the re-entrant was incorporated into the external stair (figure 71) suggesting that the demolished structure may have functioned as a flanking jamb or closet tower to the main west range.

Figure 71 View of the west front with late 18th century outside stair to west range 1839 NLS

Figure 72 Corbell on west range 1873 PAC

Both the position of the jamb, which obscured much of the west front of the church, and the detail of the corbelling suggest a late 16th century, post-Reformation date.


An engraving of 1791 (figure 73) shows that the wall to the north of the demolished closet tower remained, so that the west front of the abbey was not yet exposed.

Figure 73 View of the Abbey from the north 1791

3.5.2 Phase 3 – Surviving Fabric

The west gable of the south range is the only significant fabric to survive from this phase (figure 69). A blocked fireplace on each level of the gallery survives, and a further first floor fireplace may have existed but has been filled in in the early 20th century.

3.5.3 19th Century

Paisley in the 19th century

The rural setting of the Abbey had been lost, and the densely packed new housing is shown on two early 19th century images (figure 76-77). The streets surrounding the Abbey were typical of the urban fabric of a rapidly expanding industrial town, they were not however the towering slum tenements associated with later 19th and 20th century industrial towns. Photographs of the area in the 19th century (figure 74-75) show two and three storey houses, with details such as scrolled skewputs and crow-stepped gables. A considerable number of the buildings would have been constructed using salvaged medieval masonry from the monastic wall and demolished buildings.

Figure 74 Gauze St in the 1870s PAC Figure 75 View along Abbey Close, 1870 PAC


By the second half of the 19th century, Paisley’s wealthy industrialists were determined to improve the appearance of the streets and buildings of their town, and instituted a Town Improvement Scheme. The Abbey was the focus of a sustained campaign of restoration, involving the rebuilding of demolished parts of the building, and eventually involving the clearance of the surrounding streets to expose the newly restored building.

By the close of the century, the Abbey, the Place, and their setting had been radically altered.

Figure 76 View of the Abbey and surrounding streets from the River Cart, c1800 PAC

Figure 77 Abbey Close from the north west c1820 PAC

Although partly ruinous, and surrounded by narrow streets, the Abbey was recognised as a historically important and beautiful building, and was depicted in various 19th century views (figure 78-81) before the process of rebuilding began. The


first restorations were carried out in 1828 by the architect J Lamb, and a measured survey was made in the following year by James Russell16.

Figure 78 North front of the Abbey, 1839 Views in Renfrewshire

Figure 79 North front, Billings 1854 Baronial & Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland

Figure 80 West front of the Abbey, 1839 Views in Renfrewshire

Figure 81 West front, RW Billings c1854 Baronial & Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland

The 1852 OS map shows the densely built up area around the Abbey (figure 82), with streets following the line of the medieval wall. To the north of the Abbey was a graveyard. The main approach to the nave, which continued in use as a parish church, was from the north, passing through the graveyard.

16 This survey is believed to be held in Paisley Museum archives. It has not been possible to see the survey for this report as a result of a concurrent reorganisation of the Paisley Museum collections.


Figure 82 1st Edition OS 1858 NLS

3.5.4 The Place 1800-1873

The Place continued to be occupied by a variety of tenants, and the ground floor of the south east corner room was in use as a public house. In the west range the first floor rooms were tenanted by two congregations, with the southern room occupied by the Independent Chapel, and the northern by the Primitive Methodist Chapel. The New Statistical Account of 1835 had described

‘the Mansion-House or Place of Paisley, an old building, at one time the residence of the Abercorn family, and at another of the Dundonald; but now let out to various tenants. This tenement is the property of the Marquis of Abercorn. It is no way distinguished for its architecture.’

The Place had been let out ‘in separate dwellings, to tradesmen’s families, and for several years, has been in a state of great disrepair.17’

The plan form of the west range is shown on the 1858 OS map, with the internal arrangement of the structure at first floor level (figure 83). At that time it comprised two interior spaces, a ‘Primitive Methodist Chapel’, to the north, and an ‘Independent Chapel’ to the south. The former was accessed by an external stone stair towards the

17 New Statistical Account 1835


north end of the western frontage and the latter by a further external stair against the south wall of the range that led to a first floor vestibule that in turn gave access to the Chapel proper.

Figure 83 Detail of OS 1st Edition showing buildings clustered around the Place and Abbey NLS

3.5.5 Restoration of Paisley Abbey 1861-1862

In 1861 the architect James Salmon was commissioned to carry out the first of the 19th century restorations of the Abbey. This phase of restoration was partly funded by Thomas Coats, a wealthy local industrialist. The work transformed the church, increasing its status and allowing considerable amounts of the medieval fabric to be seen for the first time since the Reformation. A new window was added to the north transept; a new gallery at the west end of the nave; and the base of tower, ruined since before the Reformation, was rebuilt.

Figure 84 Proposal for restoration of the Abbey, James Salmon 1863 Builder

Figure 85 Proposal for restoration of west front and alteration of west range, J Salmon 1863 Builder


Salmon also proposed a restoration of the west front of the Abbey, together with alterations to the west range of the Place (figure 85). This proposal was not carried out.

The Restoration Committee purchased a house on Abbey Close which abutted the north west turret (see figure 83), and had it demolished. In a lecture delivered in 1862, Salmon appealed to the Restoration Committee to continue the work of restoration by rebuilding the transept tower and spire, and by sweeping away the old houses in Abbey Close and Smithmills.

Figure 86 Abbey Close in 1870 PAC

3.6 Phase 4, Demolition of West Range, and Alterations, 1874-1904

3.6.1 The Paisley Town Improvements Scheme 1873

In the 1870s the Town Council instituted a comprehensive scheme of improvements in the town, including road-widening. This involved the demolition of the whole or the majority of one side of a street, and its effects are visible today. The new Town Hall was to be close to the Abbey, so that eventually the two most magnificent buildings in the town would be seen together. The widening of Abbey Close was seen as integral to the improvement scheme.

The site chosen for the town hall was on the west side of Abbey Close, to the north west of the Place. The 1852 OS map shows the area occupied by a number of small buildings, including two dye works. To the south of the plot was a United Presbyterian church, to the west the River Cart, and to the north the principal bridge across it, making this a restricted plot. Any widening of Abbey Close which retained its existing alignment would require the demolition of buildings on the east side rather than the west. The retention of the west range of the Place would have necessitated a different alignment of the street, or a reduction in the size of the town hall plot.


An alternative scheme was drawn up by a member of the Restoration Committee of 1862, Dr Richmond, who wrote to the Marquis of Bute to express his horror at the intended demolition of the west range. The Town Council, he suggested, saw nothing but ‘an old house which stands in the way of a useful street improvement’ 18

Despite the involvement of the 3rd Marquis of Bute, and his offer of £1,000 towards the alternative scheme, the town council were determined to demolish the east side of Abbey Close, including the west range of the Place.

The 3rd Marquis commissioned an architectural appraisal of the Place of Paisley from the architect David Bryce. Bryce entered a partnership with the architect Robert Rowand Anderson later that year, and it was Anderson, then primarily a church architect, who carried out the inspection on the building on 29th May 1873. The report, dated 4 June 1873, was published in full in the Edinburgh Courant of 19th June.

From this it is clear that the original report was accompanied by a sequence of nine individually listed photographs by Messrs. Christie & Adam of Paisley, and four plans. Two of the plans presented information on the phasing of the structures within the Place of Paisley; one showed the road-widening scheme as proposed; and the fourth was an alternative street layout avoiding the demolition of the west range.

A series of early photographs, framed within the upper gallery at the Place, appears to include five of the nine listed in the 1873 report (figure 88-92). Unfortunately the plans referred to have yet to be located.19 The surviving photographs represent one of the more important primary sources of evidence for the lost building. It appears to have been taken at the same time (houses that had existed further north in 1872 seem no longer to be in evidence).

The details shown on the photographs are indicated on a plan showing the demolished areas of the building (figure 87). This plan also shows the south west block, the north west closet tower and the external stair on the east elevation, all of which had been demolished in the late 18th century Phase 3 alterations.

18 Quoted in P McWilliam ‘Paisley Abbey and its Remains’ PhD Thesis Glasgow University 1995 19 The report is not held in the Mount Stewart archive.


Figure 87 Historical analysis of demolished areas of the Place Addyman Archaeology


Figure 88 Exterior of the west range taken 29 May 1873 by Christie & Adam of Paisley PAC

Figure 89 External stair at north end of west range 1873 PAC

Figure 90 South gable wall of west range, with lowest steps of external stair visible to right PAC


Figure 91 East elevation of west range, adjoining south range. Late 15th century arched entrance added by Abbot Schaw, with arms above PAC

Figure 92 East elevation of west range, facing into former cloister. Projecting course signifies the point of abutment of the cloister walk roof structure, interrupted by later windows. PAC

3.6.2 Account of Demolition by David Semple 1874

The town council were supported by a local historian, David Semple. Protestations against the destruction of the range, including the Marquis of Bute’s, failed. In his published account of the demolition, David Semple recorded that the dismantling of Nos 8 and 9 Abbey Close commenced on 13 January 1874 and was completed by 24 March.20

Semple’s account is both remarkable and problematic. It is remarkable because of the extensive and acutely observed analytical detail, and as so comprehensive a dimensional record as to permit general reconstruction of the ground and first floor plans, the elevations and many details of the demolished building. The detail is generally confirmed by the other sources for the lost range the photographs taken before and during demolition, and the 1858 OS map.

The account is problematic on a number of levels. Though precious as the recorded observations are, it is very clear that Semple was seeking to provide justification for the demolition, an act that he had actively promoted. The justification, in the face of the criticism of many, appears throughout the text – encapsulated by his very curious summary of the range as ‘the semi-ancient modern building’. At points Semple is being transparently disingenuous, on occasions he does not draw particular attention to important features - such as the highly ornamented bartizan corbelling at the SW angle; or the projecting string-course along the cloister-facing side of the E wall of the range – very obvious evidence for the position of the cloister roof structure. He plays down the significance of the east wall referring to is as a ‘screen wall’ rather than the surviving walling of a west range. Elsewhere his analysis is either inconsistent or something of a muddle. Repeatedly he argues that the erection of the range was to

20 Semple, p10


the detriment of the beauty of the south side of the abbey church and that it should be removed. The later works he refers to as that of the Cochrane Earls of Dundonald – ignoring (apparently deliberately) the earlier occupation of Lord Claud Hamilton. There is notable inconsistency where the works he associates with Abbot George Schaw (of the late 15th century) are concerned – they are monastic, but it is acceptable that they should be removed.

Semple effectively summarises his position in his own preface, dated 1 July 1874,

‘The removal of the inferior and diminutive building, has revealed that it did not form any part of the original plan of the architecture of the Abbey, and had been an excrescence concealing the polished south front of the Abbey, and marring the view of … one of the finest pieces of Gothic architecture in the west of Scotland’

Two photographs in the Paisley Abbey collection, possibly taken on the instruction of David Semple himself, record the demolition in process and provide a view into the architecture of the building. The general features of the range and many internal details that Semple describes are quite visible – the structure of the vaulting, the evidence for the pre-existing vaulting, details of wall construction, the first floor interiors, and so on.

Figure 93 North end of west range, during demolition 1874 PAC

Figure 94 South end of west range, with south range behind. During demolition 1874 PAC

3.6.3 Alterations to the Place

The demolition of the west range was accompanied by alterations to the remainder of the Place, which remained subdivided, and let out to tenants.

The north west corner of the south range was now exposed. A small single storey projection was added (incorporating some earlier fabric, particularly on the north side), with a blocked arch on the west elevation, and an entrance on the south (figure


95). The blocked arch incorporated medieval fabric. The projection did not contain a staircase and must have functioned as an entrance porch to the ground floor only. No historical information about the porch has been uncovered for this conservation plan, but the construction of the purely decorative arch suggests the involvement of a designer. This may mark the beginning of an appreciation of the importance of the Place, and the more sensitive approach which has guided subsequent works to the building.

Figure 95 View from north west, 1880s MacGibbon & Ross

Figure 96 View from south east, 1880s MacGibbon & Ross

A late 19th century photograph (figure 97) shows a railing in place along the west border of the cloister, with gatepiers and a path leading from the west straight across to St Mirrin’s Aisle.

Figure 97 View into cloister from west, c1880s PMus


Figure 98 2nd Edition OS 1897 NLS

Macgregor Chalmers’ c1910 plan of the first floor (figure 100) is the earliest to show the layout of the south range. It shows the extent of the 18th and 19th century subdivisions, with a staircase and subdivisions in the west room, and a further staircase linking the closet tower to the rooms below. In the north wing a staircase is shown in the west room, suggesting this too was a separate dwelling.

A photograph of the building in the 1870s (figure 99) shows the masonry in apparently good repair, with visible repointing and some stone repairs, compared to a photograph of 1865 (figure 101). These photographs show a cobbled yard with no trace of the current well.

At this date the outside staircase to the north east wing was stone, with a metal railing. Figure 99 The Place in use as a public house

c1870s

At the head of the stair was a covered entrance. Figure 99 shows a lean-to shed attached to the north east wing. The south east closet tower was functioning as a public house at this date, with an entrance door in the south wall.


Figure 100 Plan of first floor of south range, c1910 Peter Macgregor Chalmers PAC

Figure 101 View from south east 1865.


Figure 102 View from north west, graveyard with new monuments to Paisley’s ‘Weaver Poets’ facing Town Hall (off photograph to right), 1880s, prior to 1890s work to Abbey

3.6.4 Restoration of Abbey 1887-1907

The Rev Dr Gentles commissioned the architect Robert Rowand Anderson to examine the next stage of restoration in 1887, but it was 1897 before work could begin.

Anderson’s work was expected to involve the completion of the tower. Technical difficulties meant that the tower was not completed in this phase, but the construction of the tower base allowed the transepts to be brought back into use.

3.6.5 Abbey Surrounds Committee 1897-1912

The next important phase of alteration to the surroundings of the abbey took place in the 1890s. The Abbey Surrounds Committee was established in 1897, with the aim of buying up all the properties surrounding the Abbey, so that they could be demolished. This would allow the newly restored Abbey to be seen without visual interruption and ‘provide Paisley with a great central open space, which, when properly laid out and planted with trees, will be a much-prized Pleasaunce for the community, akin to those which have conferred such dignity and beauty upon so many English cathedral towns’21. The 2nd Edition OS map of 1897 (figure 98) shows the effect of demolition north of the Abbey, on the east side of Abbey Close, opposite the new Town Hall, but the surrounding streets were still densely built up.

21 A M McLean ‘Paisley Abbey Restoration’ 1913


Figure 103 Plan showing proposed new layout around abbey, RA Hamilton, 1900. The viewpoints for three sketches are marked (highlighted in red by S&B) NMRS

A scheme drawn up in 1900 by the local architect RA Hamilton (figures 103-106) shows a proposal for formal garden layouts on the site of demolished houses to the east of the Place, with the graveyard similarly landscaped. The proposal included the replacement of the existing UP church by gardens, with a new UP church further to the south, framing the view of the Abbey from the west. The scheme was not carried out.

Figure 104 Proposal sketch showing view from Dunn Square, RA Hamilton 1900 NMRS


Figure 105 Proposal sketch showing view along Gauze Street from Lawn Street corner RA Hamilton 1900 NMRS

Figure 106 Proposal sketch showing view along Abbey St towards Abbey Close, with restored tower RA Hamilton 1900 NMRS

3.6.6 Restoration Appeal 1911

In 1911 an appeal was launched for the next stage of the restoration of the Abbey. The architect Peter Macgregor Chalmers was commissioned. Sir Robert Rowand Anderson was not regarded as a reliable architect by the Heritors after his failure to complete the tower. The then minister, the Rev Dr A A MacLean, published a book


outlining the appeal in 1913. This contains useful information about the state of the building at that date.

By 1913 (figure 108), the demolition programme was beginning to take effect, with the small buildings to the north of the Abbey cleared, allowing open views from the north across the graveyard. To the south of the newly restored choir small buildings had been cleared. On the west side of Abbey Close, the southern half of the plot to the south of the town hall was now empty.

Figure 107 Demolitions in Abbey St, 1913 PAC

Figure 108 OS 1913 NLS


3.6.7 Restoration of Abbey 1912-1917

Peter McGregor Chalmers was responsible for the rebuilding of the choir, a significant milestone in the decades of campaigning, fundraising and local effort to restore the abbey. The north and east side of the cloister was also rebuilt, linking the Place to the south door of the Abbey.

A new door was inserted into the Place which gave access from the cloister to the building. Although referred to as ‘the 1914 door’, the exact date this was added is not entirely clear – it is not shown on a drawing by Sir Robert Lorimer dated 1922 (see below). Figure 109 Proposal for restoration of cloister,

c1910 Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 110 Proposal for abbey restoration c1910 Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 111 Proposal for abbey restoration c1910 Macgregor Chalmers


Figure 112 Ground floor plan of Abbey and Place with proposed restoration of cloister and choir, Macgregor Chalmers, 1913 PAC

3.7 Phase 5 Restoration and Alterations, 1904-1957

With the acquisition of the Place by the Kirk Session in 1904 the building entered into a long phase of restoration and consolidation. Two successive architects were involved, and further works were carried out after their deaths. For ease of understanding, all these works have been grouped into a single phase.

3.7.1 1904-1921 – work by Peter Macgregor Chalmers

The church bought the Place in 1904, but was to be 1912 when the last tenant left, and the church was able to occupy the building fully.

Peter Macgregor Chalmers was a highly sensitive architect, with great respect for the historic fabric of both the Abbey and the Place. He produced a report22 with sketch proposals for the restoration of the abbey (figure 118) and the Place, together with sketches showing the interior of the Place. These are the earliest known records of

22 The report by Macgregor Chalmers has not been seen for this report, however use has been made of the PhD thesis by Peter McWilliams which contains extensive notes on the report.


the interior of the surviving south range of the building (figure 113-116). It is however possible that these sketches may represent proposals for restoration, as the panelling may have been concealed, or partially concealed during the 19th century subdivisions. Macgregor Chalmer’s sketch of what is now the Session Room shows the panelling as it exists today.

Figure 113 Sketch of east wall of first floor panelled room, now the Session Room, Macgregor Chalmers, 1913 PAC

Figure 114 Sketch of first floor room, now Church Office, Macgregor Chalmers 1913 PAC

Figure 115 Second floor east room, now manse sitting room PAC

Figure 116 Second floor closet room, now archive PAC

Chalmers was insistent that all the wood panelling, furnishings, locks, handles, hinges and fitments should be preserved.

On the east front Chalmers proposed ‘a fine open stone staircase and balcony giving access to the principal entrance on the first floor in accordance with a sketch of the ancient staircase and balcony which was recently shown [to him] in Paisley’ (figure 117). Chalmers’ sketch differs from the 1776 sketch (which is presumed to be what he saw). This proposal was not carried out.

Figure 117 Sketch dated 1776 NGS


Figure 118 Proposal for restoration of Abbey and Place, c1910 Macgregor Chalmers PAC

A number of Macgregor Chalmers’ suggestions were carried out, although some of them were executed in the 1930s, during and after the involvement of the architect Sir Robert Lorimer.

Macgregor Chalmers’ proposals for the exterior were:

Blocking up the modern shop door on the west front of the south block with stone

Returning the windows on the south front ‘to their original form’

Replacing the wooden lintels of the dormer windows with stone.

Dormer window with the wooden pediment to south west of south front to be restored in stone (this was done in the 1930s)

Unblocking the built up windows in ground floor

One new window in east gable (this was carried out in 1930s)

Remove ‘modern’23 chimney stacks visible from the cloister side.

Some of his proposals were not carried out – to remove the skylights and form two new dormer windows; to strengthen and repair the oak roof and wallheads of the south block; to add a new stair tower in the south east corner of the cloister (figure 120); or to extend the existing west stair tower and add a caphouse tower (figure 119).

23 Little is known about the date of these chimneys – they served fireplaces in the ground floor corridor and on the first floor gallery, which had probably been added in the late 18th century. The chimneys themselves may have been replaced in the 19th century.


Figure 119 Sketch of proposed alteration to west stair tower, adding windows and new roof, McGregor Chalmers 1913

Figure 120 Proposal for new stairtower, c1913

Macgregor Chalmers found the roof of the St Mirrin’s Aisle to be sound, however the roof of the north block required to be replaced, with the exception of the roof over the projecting staircase.

The interior of the Place required the minimum of alteration for adaption to church purposes. Macgregor Chalmers proposed:

Forming a waiting room on the ground floor of the north-east block, to be entered from the north by a new opening, the ‘1914 door’

An archway to be made on the south wall opposite the north door, giving access to the three large rooms on the ground floor of the south block, which could be used by the Sunday School.

Adding a staircase from ground to first floor in the south east corner of the cloister

On the first floor of the north-east block two new vestries were added. The proposal for a caretaker’s flat was not carried out at this point, but was done in 1957 by James Steel Maitland. The addition of a larger staircase to link the floors of the south range was proposed by Chalmers (figure 120), as it was by Lorimer in the 1920s, but this was not done until the 1958 staircase added on the west elevation.

On the 2nd floor of the south range the modern (presumably 19th century) partitions (figure 122) were removed and Chalmers proposed returning the two rooms to their ‘original state’, for use as an abbey museum. He specified the floor was to be laid with large square tiles, the stone vault to be repaired, windows to be glazed.

The flooring throughout the building was badly decayed, however the proposed alterations seem to have been carried out by Lorimer. Chalmers proposed fireproof flooring with oak planks; the caretakers flat was to have pine flooring. At ground level the floor was to be concrete and asphalt, with tiles in the gallery. Finally, electric light and heating were to be introduced. The total estimate for the works was £8,450.

Macgregor Chalmers’ had a sensitive concern for the historic building, insisting that ‘all the old window sashes, and beautiful old window glass will be carefully preserved’.


Figure 121 Plan of first floor, c1910 P Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 122 Plan of second floor c1910 P Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 123 North elevation c1910 P Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 124 South elevation c1910 P Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 125 West elevation c1910 P Macgregor Chalmers

Figure 126 East elevation c1910 P Macgregor Chalmers

3.7.2 Alterations to the Place 1923-1928

Sir Robert Lorimer was appointed architect after the death of Macgregor Chalmers in March 1922, however he seems to have become involved in the project prior to this, as drawings from Lorimer’s office survive dated October 1922. Lorimer wrote a report in 1923 on the condition of the Place suggesting it would be ‘an artistic and


interesting building when completed’ and also insisting on the preservation of all existing historic fabric24. Lorimer proposed that the existing joinery be carefully recorded, removed and stored. New work should match the pattern of the old.

The interiors were partly stripped out in 1922, when ‘some members of the Historical Section of the Abbey Club, with the blessing of the Kirk Session, set out to clear up the interior of the Place. No less than ten cartloads of rubbish were taken away in anticipation of Sir Robert beginning the work of restoration.25’ It is possible that at this point the panelled rooms shown on Macgregor Chalmers’ sketches above which are now bare were lost. Historic photographs show the rooms after this stripout with fragments of panelling and wooden cornice being stored in the second floor (figures 149-154, below).

In addition to the stripping out, the principal alteration made in this period was the insertion of concrete floors.

Lorimer’s proposals were:

Exterior: New newel staircase to first floor from cloister

Ground floor: memorial hall to be entered from cloister

2nd floor: form new long gallery, as characteristic of Scottish houses of 17th -18th century.

A parapet wall with iron grating around old well in forecourt

The cost was estimated at £25,000. The Rev Maclean, Minister of the Abbey, wrote to Lorimer, that no funds were available, so the matter was to be left open. Lorimer replied if a donor was found ‘the whole thing would of course have to be gone into afresh and most careful and elaborate drawings prepared for every portion of the work’.

The proposal to open up the 2nd floor to form a new long gallery would have highlighted the roof structure. However it would have involved both new dormer windows to light the space and the need to construct alternative flues for fireplaces on the ground and first floor cross walls. This proposal is shown in a sketch (figure 131). It was not carried out.

In Jan 1928 two rooms below the Session House were altered by Lorimer to form cloakrooms.

Lorimer shared Chalmers’ idea on how to secure the building by binding the walls together with ferroconcrete floors, giving a safe floor and ceiling to the Session House, Vestry, lavatory and upper floor passage26. ‘His idea was to render the structure absolutely secure in all portions of the building and leave the question of the interior treatment of walls and ceilings and floors, to be decided at some time when money was available’27.

24 This report may be held in the uncatalogued Abbey collection or as part of the Kirk Session collection in the NAS. It has not been possible to see this report for the conservation plan. 25 P McWilliam PhD Thesis 1995 26 P McWilliam, PhD Thesis, quoting a from Melville Dundas & Whitson to Lorimer, in the Lorimer Papers in EUL 27 P McWilliam, PhD Thesis


Melville Dundas & Wilson, specialists in ferroconcrete, were consulted. Mr Melville wrote to Lorimer stating that the firm was more interested in seeing the Place restored in a fitting manner than in profit, and that they were willing to do the work at cost. Ferroconcrete was laid in first floor east and south blocks. American oak block flooring was laid on top of the concrete in the Session Room, Vestry and lavatory.

Figure 127 Plan of ground floor, Lorimer 1922

Although drawings by Lorimer survive dated 1922, these are perhaps not a representation of the building at that date. It is possible that the ground floor plan (and possibly other) drawings may have been tracings over earlier drawings, perhaps done by Macgregor Chalmers prior to the alterations. The ground floor plan (figure 127) does not show the cloister, nor the door between the cloister and the Place. The staircase shown in the west room of the north wing would have been removed when the new door was added. The drawing showing the south elevation of the Place shows two doors on this elevation. These were removed by 1954 (see below).


Figure 128 South elevation Lorimer 1923 NMRS

Figure 129 West elevation Lorimer 1922 NMRS

Lorimer’s drawing of the west elevation (figure 129) shows that the current west window in the second floor of the closet tower had been blocked up, and had no dormer. This window was reinstated and a dormer added, probably as part of Lorimer’s programme of work. Macgregor Chalmer’s sketch of the interior of the room shows no window on this elevation.


Figure 130 East elevation, Lorimer 1922 NMRS

Lorimer’s drawing of the east elevation dated 1922 (figure 130) does not include the flue for the boiler house, suggesting it was added later, perhaps as part of Lorimer’s later work or the further works of the 1930s. On the ground floor of the north wing, a blocked window shown on this drawing was later reinstated, and a second window added beside it, both prior to 1954.

Figure 131 North elevation with proposed new dormer windows and stair tower, Lorimer 1922 NMRS


Figure 132 shows two proposals not carried out (dormer windows in the second floor and a new stair tower) together with a blocked doorway in the north elevation of the porch to the west.

Figure 132 Section showing proposal for long gallery on second floor, with new dormer windows to north. Lorimer 1922 NMRS

3.7.3 War Memorial 1923

Figure 133 Dedication of War Memorial 1923 PAC


The Paisley War Memorial was constructed in the centre of the cloisters by the Glasgow architect J J Waddell (a onetime apprentice of Peter Macgregor Chalmers), using R T Blomfields standard war cross design. It was dedicated in the presence of Earl Haig in 1923.

3.7.4 Alterations 1930s

Lorimer died in 1929, however further works were carried out in the 1930s, which seems to have followed his recommendations. Stonework in the ground and first floor windows was repaired with ferroconcrete lintels and stone. The doorway on the south of the closet tower, which had given access to a public house in the 19th century, was blocked up and a new window formed.

On the south front, one ground floor window frame was replaced, together with the first floor west and middle window. The roofs were re-slated, rainwater goods were overhauled, and the chimneys were repaired. Photographic evidence suggests the chimneys were lowered to their present height in this period (figure 134-135). The three secondary chimneys on the north side of the south range were probably removed around this time, and had gone by 1954. The external stair on the east elevation was repaired and the metal handrail was replaced by a stone parapet. Central heating was added, costing £256 10s. The total cost of these works was £1,245.

In 1936 the antiquarian Sir John Stirling Maxwell donated funds for the restoration of the west and middle rooms of the first floor, ‘as near as possible to their original seventeenth-eighteenth century appearance’28. The original fittings including cornices were stripped out and stored. Three new windows in Austrian oak were fitted, copying the style of Lorimer’s new windows. New tiles were laid in the gallery. The total cost of work sponsored by Stirling Maxwell was £686 14s. 9d. At this period the second floor was left in a ‘safe’ condition, in anticipation of future restoration work when funds became available.

Figure 134 South elevation in 1933 Newsquest Figure 135 View from the south west 1933 Newsquest

28 Letter from Stirling Maxwell to Dr Guthrie Cooper, Minister of Abbey on his plan for the two rooms 25/4/1936, quoted in P McWilliams PhD Thesis


3.7.5 Setting of Paisley Abbey and the Place 1920s-30s

Photographs of the area show the progress of clearance continued in the 1920s and ‘30s. By the 1930s the Abbey and Town Hall could at last be seen from a distance, uninterrupted by more humble buildings (figure 140-141).

The 1938 OS map (figure 139) shows the new setting of the Abbey, the Place, and the Town Hall. At this date the UP church to the south of the Town Hall had not yet been demolished.

Figure 136 View from Abbey Bridge towards Town Hall, early 1930s Paisley Museum

Figure 137 Graveyard with Gauze St beyond 1920s

Figure 138 Bridge St, looking towards the Abbey 1928 Newsquest


Figure 139 OS 1938 NLS

Figure 140 New road layout, view of Abbey and Town Hall from north east, 1930s Scottish Motor Museum


Figure 141 View of the Abbey and the Town Hall from the south, 1933

The effect of the new layout is shown clearly on a 1952 aerial photograph (figure 142).

Figure 142 Oblique aerial view of Paisley, 1952 NMRS

A series of photographs show the building prior to the next phase of alterations (figures 143-148).


Figure 143 West elevation 1954 NMRS Figure 144 South elevation 1954, with window replacing door on ground floor at west NMRS

Figure 145 East and south elevations 1954 NMRS

Figure 146 East elevation and north wing 1954 NMRS

Figure 147 View from north west 1954 NMRS

Figure 148 View from across the River Cart 1956 Scotsman

3.8 Phase 6 Alterations to The Place 1958-64

3.8.1 Alterations to the 2nd Floor

In 1956 a committee was set up to consider forming a manse in the Place. A local firm of architects, Abercrombie & Maitland, were commissioned to undertake the work of converting the 2nd floor. Drawings survive showing the proposed changes (figure 155-157). The eradication of woodworm involved stripping plaster off the 2nd floor ceiling, fully exposing the medieval beams which had been re-used from a monastic building (figure 150, 152).


Figure 149 Second floor, east room after strip out, undated mid 20th century

Figure 150 Second floor, centre room after strip out, undated mid 20th century

Figure 151 Second floor, centre room after strip out, undated mid 20th century

Figure 152 Second floor east room, now flat sitting room, 1954

Figure 153 Undated interior after stripping out, mid 20th century. Probably second floor of north wing, now caretaker’s flat.

Figure 154 Second floor of south range, with fragments of panelling, undated mid 20th century


Partitions were removed in the closet wing to the south, the floors were stripped and the joists reinforced with steel.

All the internal fixtures and fittings, including some light fittings, were designed in an Arts and Crafts style including the new hearth in the sitting room. A fragment of carving showing the arms of James IV, apparently from the Abbey precinct, was installed over the fireplace (figure 158).

New doors were added to the doorways on the west front, the north porch, and the east and west ‘processional doorways’, which had oak double doors in oak.

A larger stair tower, to link the floors of the building, was also built, but on a different site from that proposed by Macgregor Chalmers and Lorimer – at the north west corner of the south range. This linked all three floors, rather than just the ground and first. A new broad ground floor entrance was formed on the south side of the new stair tower, this recreating a medieval entrance whose east jamb still remained in situ (possibly the entrance to the stair to the refectory). The existing early turret stair at the south west corner of the range was retained for service access.

It was formed by extending the existing single storey porch on the west elevation.

A sketch from 1955 (figure 155) shows that by this date the chimneys along the north had been removed, and that the central chimney stacks had been reduced in height.

The proposals for the second floor differed considerably from Lorimer’s scheme, which would have made the whole floor a single vaulted space. Figure 155 Sketch from west, Abercrombie &

Maitland 1955

Instead, the late 17th century cross walls were retained, with the larger west room divided into hall, scullery and serving area, kitchen and storage space. The new stair tower included a cloakroom at the top of the tower. The layout allowed for ample entertaining space, with a separation between this and the service spaces and access.

Figure 156 Plan of second floor as existing 1955 Abercrombie & Maitland ed Simpson & Brown PAC, M Neil

Figure 157 Proposed layout of second floor of north wing 1955 Abercrombie & Maitland PAC, M Neil


The north wing contained two bedrooms and a bathroom on the second floor, with a further three bedrooms and a bathroom on the third floor, so that the private family accommodation was quite separate.

It is not clear what had happened to the panelling which had been removed from the building in the 1920s. The new manse was restored with oak joinery, and the bare stone walls were plastered, with exposed stone dressings. The roof timbers were also left exposed in most of the floor.

Figure 158 Sitting room, east room 1960 Figure 159 Sitting room, east room 1960

The addition of the stair tower was the most significant external alteration to the building since the 19th century demolition of the west range.

Figure 160 Sketch showing new stair tower on west elevation, Abercrombie & Maitland 1960 NMRS

A further proposal from the architects involved adding a garage to the east of the closet tower. This was not carried out. At the west, in addition the new stair tower, a low wall was added to screen the smaller stair tower (figure 160).

Figure 161 Photograph showing new tower Scotsman


Figure 162 Stair tower with low wall to right 2010

Figure 163 Aerial photograph, 1960s, showing setting of the buildings Newsquest

Further landscaping was carried out, including planting trees to the north of the Abbey, on the site of the graveyard.

3.9 Phase 7 Alterations 1970s – 80s

3.9.1 Alterations to North East Wing

Further, mostly minor works were carried out by the architect Margaret Neil in the 1970s and ‘80s to create a flat for the Church Officer in the third and attic floors of the north east wing (figures 164-166), with a kitchen and shop in the ground floor.


Figure 164 Plan of ground and first floor, showing uses of the rooms, M Neil, 1971 PAC

The church had purchased a manse elsewhere in the town by the late 1970s, and the manse accommodation on the second floor of the south range and the second and third floor of the north wing was no longer required.

Figure 165 Drawing showing alterations to form caretaker’s flat in north wing, M Neil 1979


Figure 166 Plan showing proposed alterations to ground floor, M Neil 1984

3.9.2 Restoration Works, April 2002 Onwards

A ten-year phase of restoration works commenced in April 2002. The Glasgow firm Campbell & Morris Associates were employed to carry out the fifth phase which comprised a £750,000 project to repair stonework on the Abbey, funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund, Historic Scotland and the Church itself.


3.10 Summary Chronology

Entries referring specifically to the Place are highlighted

1163 Foundation of Paisley Abbey by Walter Fitz-Alan, High Steward of Scotland, and ancestor of Royal Family

13th century William Wallace educated at Paisley Abbey

1460-72 Abbacy of Henry Crichton

1472-98 Abbacy of George Schaw

Laid grounds around abbey for new garden, orchard and park; erected boundary wall; monastic buildings

1491 Visit of James IV, inspects on-going building works; payment of drink-silver to the masons

1498/99-1525

Abbacy of Robert Schaw (nephew of George). Continued building programme

1504 Visit of James IV

1507 Visits of James VI and Queen Margaret to and from pilgrimage to Whithorn; payment of drink-silver to the masons

Collapse of tower

1525-71 Abbacy of John Hamilton

1553 Pope issues a bull making the abbey lands a temporal lordship in favour of Lord Claude Hamilton, Abbot John’s nephew; Abbot John retains a life-rent

1560 Reformation in Scotland

1587 Paisley erected into a temporal lordship; Lord Claude Hamilton created Lord Paisley (d1621), later 1st Earl of Abercorn

1597 Visit of Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI to ‘the Place of Paislay’

1617 Visit of James VI & I to Place, but not to town of Paisley. An oration delivered in the Place by representatives of the town.

1621 Death of Lord Paisley, succeeded by his grandson, 2nd Earl of Abercorn

1652 Lord Abercorn sells the Paisley lordship to the Earl of Angus for £160,000 Scots

1653 Building sold to William Lord Cochrane (created 1st Earl of Dundonald in 1669)

1675 ‘extensive additions’ made to, and in front of the building by 4th Earl of Dundonald. Laigh hall created over west range of cloister

1691 Inventory of Earl of Dundonald’s possessions mentions twenty rooms with furniture and furnishings of considerable luxury

1747-55 Roy’s Survey shows formal layout of gardens within monastic wall

1751 William Cochrane, 7th Earl of Dundonald, begins to sell off Abbey


lands and assets.

1757 4 acres of Abbey Gardens feued off by public auction

1758 Death of 7th Earl, estate inherited by his second cousin once removed, who lived at Culross Abbey

1760 Abbey lands surveyed for future sale

1763 Abbey Bridge built, using stone from monastery

Gatehouse demolished

1764 8th Earl of Dundonald sells Abbey lands and buildings to 8th Earl of Abercorn, whose family seat is Baronscourt, Co Tyrone

Laying out of New Town of Paisley on site of Abbey gardens and monastery. Materials of wall and surviving buildings offered to feuars

1773 1st restoration of Abbey, Revd Robert Boog: aisles and roof repaired; some build-up of earth and rubbish removed from floor

1781 Demolition of wall surrounding abbey lands, stone used for building

1784 Land feued in small sections

1788 Demolition of north west corner of west range, construction of external staircase

1789 Place divided into single rooms and let to different tenants. Demolition of south west block and new external staircase built Extensive repairs to nave of abbey church

1828 Repairs to Abbey by architect J Lamb

1829 Measured survey of Abbey by architect James Russell

Abbey Bridge widened

1859 Proposals for rebuilding Abbey by architect James Salmon

1862 2nd phase of restoration to Abbey, architect James Salmon: north transept window; new gallery at west end; base of tower rebuilt. Floor and ground outside lowered by c1m.

1872 Purchase by Commissioners of Police of houses on east side of Abbey Close for street-widening purposes.

1873 Survey by Robert Rowand Anderson architect, funded by Marquis of Bute, finds west range contains medieval fabric. Proposal for restoration of west range of cloister by Robert Rowand Anderson, not executed

1874 Demolition of west range of cloister Local historian David Semple presents ‘Historical Remarks on the Demolition of the Buildings at the Abbey of Paisley’ to Paisley Philosophical Institution

1875 Extensive repairs to Abbey, architect Charles Davidson

1879-82 Construction of Paisley Town Hall, funded by Coates family

1882 Reconstruction of Abbey Bridge in cast iron


1888 Visit of Queen Victoria. Monument to her Stewart ancestors gifted to Abbey

1897 Abbey Surrounds Committee (ASC) established to buy up all properties surrounding Abbey

OS 2nd Edition shows demolitions on east side of Abbey Close

1900 Plans drawn up for demolition of buildings surrounding Abbey

1898-1907 3rd phase of restoration to Abbey, architect Robert Rowand Anderson: completion of tower base, transepts in use

1904 Place purchased by Kirk Session for £1700

1910 Properties around Abbey gifted to council for demolition by ASC

1911 Appeal launched for further restoration funds.

1912 Last tenant leaves Place

1913 OS map shows further demolitions, to north of Abbey on Gauze St, and south east on Abbey St.

1912-17 4th phase of abbey restoration, architect Peter Macgregor Chalmers: choir rebuilt; cloister rebuilt, opened 1915

1914 Alterations to the Place including new door to cloister

1921-22 Historical Section of Abbey Club, with consent of Kirk Session, ‘clear up the interior of the Place. No less than ten cartloads of rubbish were taken away’

1922 Death of Macgregor Chalmers

1923-29 Restoration of Abbey choir vault, tower, interior woodwork and furnishings, architect Sir Robert Lorimer

1923 Report written by Lorimer on condition of Place

1928 Ferroconcrete floors inserted into the Place

1928 Restored Abbey rededicated

1938 OS map shows radical alteration to surroundings: realignment of Abbey Close, Gauze St, Cotton St and Abbey St. Area of monastic gardens now clear of buildings except Abbey, Place, Town Hall and UF Church.

1958 Alterations to upper floor to form manse

1960-1978 Place occupied as manse

1961-2 Tower added to north corner of west end wall, architect J Steel Maitland

1978 Manse purchased elsewhere in Paisley Alterations to form flat for Church Officer on top floor Remainder of building used as offices


3.11 The Place of Paisley in 2010

3.11.1 Uses of the Building

The Place of Paisley is used for a variety of functions. The ground floor contains a shop, café, public toilets, and choir robing room. The second and third floors are used for church officers, meetings and conferences. The Minister’s study and the Paisley Abbey archive collection are also housed on these floors.

Figure 167 Plan of building showing uses


3.11.2 Condition Summary and Recommended Repairs

The Place

The condition of the buildings is excellent. The building has been carefully maintained. The abbey has had a series of comprehensive repairs to roofs and walls at least partly funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund and by Historic Scotland.

Some of the hoppers and conductor pipes on the tower need to be repainted. Generally, painting is needed to exterior windows and doors. The exterior metalwork also needs to be painted.

Over the south door to the north west stair tower of the Place is a crude light fitting which is of poor appearance.

The vent pipes on the main south elevation of the Place would be better removed or re-routed internally where possible. The gutter across the south face of the Place is uneven and is partly graded away from the outlet.

There are some external cables on the south and east walls of the Place and running around the south east tower. This would be better run internally where possible.

The wellhead requires some repointing to the masonry and repainting of the yett.

On the part of the Place which extends out to the north east there are two light fittings and some cable which have an unfortunate appearance. Wherever possible lighting should be taken off the building. It could be mounted on standards at the nearby railings.

Although the leadwork on the roof of the Place appears to have been carried out to a high standard, there are no sacrificial flashings at the point of slate run off around dormer heads and at pitched valley gutters. At these points leadwork which is otherwise designed to last over 100 years can be eroded relatively quickly, say within 20 years, by the action of organic acids running off the slates during and after rainfall. These organic acids are formed in mosses and lichens on the slate. Fitting sacrificial flashings is not particularly difficult, but it will need scaffolding to each area. The sacrificial flashings are fitted underneath the run off point of the lowest run of slates with lead clips. When they have eroded through it is easy to bend the clips down and fit in another strip of sacrificial lead.

The Abbey Church

There are some blocked pipes and the north and east lead gutters on the roof of the central tower of the Abbey have failed. The chancel gutters are lined with copper and should be checked for splits and cracks.

One large stone finial has been taken down from the east side of the tower parapet and is currently resting on leadwork. The finial should be located onto a palette with some roofing felt used to cushion the weight so that it does not damage the leadwork beneath it. The finial should be reinstated. The base of the finial needs a new carved stone section where it has cracked away. It is this damage which has caused the finial to be taken down. At the centre of the tower roof was a ventilator which should be repainted.

On the nave pitches there are a few slipped slates but generally the roofs are in good condition. The slated pitches of the nave pass down to cast iron gutters which have some standing water in them and so need vents at the outlets. Below this is the


parapet walkway which has saddle and trough stones that distribute the water to spitters at regular intervals. There is a lot of moss build up on these stones, particularly in the sumps. The same detail applies to the aisle roofs. In the south aisle the stones and sumps are relatively clear of moss but on the north side there is a fair amount of moss build up and some bushes becoming established near the western end. Some of the windows in the sacristy have been broken by vandals.

Policy

A regular quinquennial inspection should be carried out with repairs itemised and prioritised according to urgent – the work has to be carried out within one year of the report, necessary – work to be carried out within the quinquennial, and desirable – which is defined as works which do not affect the condition of the building but could be carried out in order to enhance its appearance or reinstate missing features. The finial on the east parapet of the tower would be a desirable action.

3.11.3 Archaeology

As an archaeological site of the medieval period Paisley Abbey must be regarded in terms of the extent of the wider abbey precinct. Conveniently this is defined by the line of its now-demolished boundary wall, the route of which is well established from historical sources. However the ‘monastic site’ also extended beyond these bounds – encompassing the abbey mills at Seedhill, a short distance up-stream, the river crossing to the burgh and, indeed the burgh itself, being the foundation of the abbey, and the lands extending northwards towards Renfrew that includes the earlier monastic site at Abbot’s Inch.

In the 1980s documentary research by Richard Oram suggested the positions of many of the other monastic buildings formerly within the abbey precinct. While the focus of this conservation plan is the Place of Paisley this wider context cannot be overlooked - what now remains is simply part of the core of the very extensive surrounding monastic site. However The Place of Paisley, being at the very heart of the former abbey complex, has a particular significance.

Figure 168 Aerial view of area around Abbey and the Place c2010


4.0 ASSESSMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

4.1 Introduction

The Burra Charter provides the following definition of cultural significance:

Cultural Significance means aesthetic, historic, scientific, social or spiritual value for past, present or future generations. Cultural significance is embodied in the Place itself, its fabric, setting, use, associations, meanings, records, related places and related objects.

The following assessment of the heritage value of the Place of Paisley is based upon an analysis and understanding of the historical development of the site, including the tangible documentary and physical evidence, as well as intangible historic, and social associations.

The assessment of significance establishes the importance of the church as a place of cultural heritage. In order to establish parameters for appropriate and sensitive reuse of the building and site, whilst respecting the historic fabric, the grading of significance will help to identify key elements of the building, as well as those which may be of an intrusive nature – that is, those that adversely impact upon the appreciation of elements of greater significance and should be removed or changed.

Each element of the building and the site overall has been graded according to its significance as an individual item within the overall context of the site.

This information informs policies, or guidelines, which should to be met to ensure that in any future changes to the building, appropriate respect is paid to the site and its components.

4.2 Historical Significance

Historical significance encompasses the importance of the relationship of a site to the evolving pattern of our cultural or natural history, or has a strong or special association with the life or works of a person, or group of persons, of importance in our cultural or natural history.

A site may have historical value because it has influenced, or has been influenced by, a historical figure, event, phase or activity, or as the site of an important event. For any given place the significance will be greater where evidence of the association or event survives in situ, or where the setting is substantially intact, than where it has been changed or evidence does not survive. However, some events or associations may be so important that the Place retains significance regardless of subsequent treatment.

The Place of Paisley is of outstanding historical significance, partly for its association with Paisley Abbey. The history of Paisley Abbey is closely linked to the Stewart family, later the kings of Scotland. The history of the restoration and rebuilding of Paisley Abbey is of outstanding importance.

The Place is an extremely unusual surviving example of a secular, post-Reformation mansion house built within and incorporating a monastic complex. It was for two hundred years the home of the Earls of Abercorn and the Earls of Dundonald. James VI & I was entertained in the house on a number of occasions. It was the family home of Jean Cochrane, the wife of Viscount Claverhouse (‘Bonnie Dundee’) and the couple were married at the Abbey church. The historical development of the building from the late 18th to the late 20th century reflected the fortunes and history of


the town of Paisley, which rose rapidly with industrialisation and trade. The restoration of Paisley Abbey was almost entirely locally funded, and the successful completion of the rebuilding of one of Scotland’s great medieval buildings was a triumph of local pride. The highly controversial and soon-lamented demolition of the west range of the Place in 1874 proved to be a misconceived exercise to properly reveal the pure architecture and illusory ‘former glory’ of the abbey church. Thereafter, and perhaps in recognition of this loss, works to the Place of Paisley attempted to concentrated upon its sensitive preservation and improvement. Whilst initial efforts failed to be sensitive with extensive stripping out of interiors that have never been replaced and complete replacement of historic floor structures with concrete, works carried out in the latter half of the century have proven to be considerably more sensitive and successful.

4.3 Architectural, Aesthetic and Artistic Significance

The importance of the site in terms of its contribution to an understanding of the architectural development of the site and broader context locally, regionally, nationally or internationally. Aesthetic value includes aspects of sensory perception such as consideration of the form, scale, colour, texture and material of the fabric; the smells and sounds associated with the character of the Place and its use.

The Place is of outstanding architectural significance. It is inextricably associated with Paisley Abbey, which is of outstanding importance.

The Place of Paisley is important in that it embodies the medieval cloister court established by the Cluniacs in the 12th century and its surrounding ranges – including parts of the monastic chapter house to the east, and the refectory range to the south. Up to the time of the demolition of the west range, Paisley had been one of the best preserved of all groupings of monastic conventual buildings in Scotland. The oak roof structure over the south range is likely to have been salvaged from monastic ranges in the late 16th century, making it unique in Scotland, although further study is required to confirm this. Whether monastic or not, the roof structure also has outstanding inherent importance as part of a Renaissance period great hall –identifiable as the ‘large hall of Paisley’ referred to in relation to the visit of James VI & I in 1617.

The Place embodies a major episode of aristocratic architectural patronage in the late 17th century when the complex was formed into a principal great apartment at first floor level in the Baroque grand manner – a sequence of elaborately appointed state rooms. The interiors of some of these rooms survive.

The architects Sir Robert Rowand Anderson and Sir Robert Lorimer were involved with the restoration of the building and both are figures of national importance. The restoration and alterations, including the partial rebuilding of the cloisters by Peter Macgregor Chalmers are of considerable importance as an example of major ecclesiastical building in the context of an existing medieval building.


4.4 Social and Spiritual Significance

Spiritual and social value represents the strong or special association of the site with a recognisable community or cultural group for social, spiritual or cultural reasons.

The Abbey of Paisley, including the cloisters and the Place are physically at the heart of the town of Paisley, and are of outstanding spiritual importance to the town. The town’s War Memorial for the fallen of WWI is at the heart of the cloister garden. The Place is very much part of the life of the church, being physically accessible and containing the church offices and meeting rooms, storage, changing rooms for the choir, a café for the public and the congregation, and the caretaker’s flat. The Minister’s office is in the Place and the second floor was formerly the manse. It would be difficult to separate the Place from the Abbey and both embody an outstanding local effort over several decades to raise funds for their restoration, and to make use of the buildings for a continuing Christian worship. Visitors are also welcomed into both buildings, and the café and shop are lively and well-appreciated local resources.

4.5 Archaeological Significance

The medieval remains of the great Cluniac monastery of Paisley include the standing architecture of the Abbey Church itself, with the St Mirrin Aisle, the other fragments surviving within the Place, and the many ex situ architectural fragments at the site generally. They also include the buried archaeological remnants of surrounding structures and medieval occupation deposits that clearly survive to a considerable extent in many areas; 29 not least of these are the great monastic drain, and the sites of many highly important graves – monastic, aristocratic and royal. Together these remains constitute an archaeological site of international importance. The archaeological remains of the complex at the immediate post-Reformation period, when it became the semi-royal palace of the Hamiltons, are also of outstanding archaeological significance. The pre-eminent survival is the great hall that forms the core of the south range, with its roof structure. While a surviving renaissance hall roof is an exceptional rarity, if it proves to be reused from a monastic predecessor the roof, individually, must be regarded as of outstanding significance – perhaps one of the earliest surviving Scottish roof structures. While incorporating extensive earlier fabric the existing Place of Paisley is today as much the product of the mid-later 17th century rebuilding by the Cochrane Earls of Dundonald; thus as the substantial upstanding remains of a major aristocratic residence of that period the Place also has a considerable archaeological significance. To a lesser extent the Place embodies a complicated series of 18th and 19th century alterations and sub-divisions that testify to its long period of tenant occupation. Archaeologically these must be considered of moderate relative significance.

29 Given the known depth of deposition to the south and west of the Place of Paisley it is likely that there will be considerable survival of early remains.


5.0 SUMMARY STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

The Place of Paisley is of outstanding historical, architectural and archaeological significance. It is of great local importance and its social and spiritual significance cannot be separated from that of the Abbey.

Architecturally, the building embodies the medieval cloister court established by the Cluniacs in the 12th century and its surrounding ranges. Up to the time of the demolition of the west range in 1874 Paisley had been one of the best preserved of all groupings of monastic conventual buildings in Scotland. The oak roof structure over the south range is likely to have been salvaged from monastic ranges in the late 16th century and is of outstanding individual importance. It is likely to be unique in Scotland.

Between the late 16th and late 18th centuries the building was the mansion house of two noble families and was visited by members of the royal family on at least two occasions. In this period the building was adapted and extended to form an impressive series of rooms.

The Abbey and the buildings which became the Place have been at the heart of the town of Paisley for almost a thousand years. The foundation of the town is closely related to the existence of the Abbey, and the Abbey and Place today embody the tremendous efforts to rebuild and restore the buildings made by the people of Paisley. The buildings are held in great local affection, and the administrative, social and public uses of the building are inextricably linked with the spiritual and cultural life of the Abbey, and of the town.

Figure 168a Significance plan showing the Place and the Abbey of Paisley S&B


6.0 GRADING OF SIGNIFICANCE

6.1 Introduction

The various elements of the building have been assessed and graded to assist with the future conservation and management of the site and its elements.

Grading of the individual elements of a site is based on the contribution each element makes to each component of significance, (ie historic, archaeological, architectural and aesthetic, landscape, social and spiritual etc) whether it be at a local (Paisley), regional (Renfrewshire/Strathclyde), national (Scotland/United Kingdom) or international level.

6.1.1 Elements of Outstanding Significance

A building or element of international importance, or a fine, intact (or little altered) example of a particular period, style or type that embodies the importance of the building or site overall.

6.1.2 Elements of Considerable Significance

A building or element of regional (Scotland) or national (United Kingdom) importance, or a good example of a particular period, style or type with a high degree of intact original fabric that contributes substantially to the importance of the building or site overall.

6.1.3 Elements of Moderate Significance

A building or element of local (Glasgow) importance, or an element that contributes to, but is not a key element to the importance of the building or site overall.

6.1.4 Neutral Elements

An element which neither contributes, nor detracts from the importance of the building or site overall.

6.1.5 Intrusive Elements

A building or element which detracts from the overall significance of the building or site overall.

6.2 Graded Elements

The key elements of the Place of Paisley have been graded according to the above following criteria and are shown graphically in figures 169-175.

The grading of significance informs policies contained within Section 7 of this report.


Figure 169 Ground floor - significance

Figure 170 First floor – significance


Figure 171 Second floor – significance


Figure 172 North elevation of south range – significance


Figure 173 West elevation – significance

Figure 174 South elevation – significance


Figure 175 East elevation – significance


7.0 CONSERVATION ISSUES & POLICIES

7.1 Introduction

The Place of Paisley is a surviving remnant of a medieval claustral complex, much altered through subsequent centuries both for religious and secular uses. The building is used by the Abbey for a variety of purposes, providing visitor services, administrative offices, facilities for the congregation and community, and residential accommodation for staff. Although clearly seen as part of the thriving ecclesiastical site today, this has not always been the case: ownership of the buildings became fragmented amongst the general development of the area in the 18th and 19th centuries, with the Place not returning to church ownership until the 20th century. It was not until the wholesale demolition and clearance in the subsequent decades that the Abbey and the Place were left standing as the distinct feature that is so recognisable today. With growing interest in the Abbey, there is a clear need to enhance visitor facilities and the changing requirement of the congregation and the wider community also means that the current function of the Place needs to be reassessed.

In this study it has been assumed that significant redevelopment is possible on the site to both retain and enhance the significant building. Recommendations are in the form of guidelines and provide parameters for the nature of such a development.

The complex of abbey, Place, cloister and landscape all combine to form a site of considerable significance. The key features of this site identified as being of heritage value and significance should be protected and managed for future generations through the implementation of appropriate conservation policies based upon recognised good practice.

There are a number of reasons for the preservation of a building and its setting on cultural grounds. One is historical: for the information or evidence of the past embodied in it. Another reason is aesthetic: for its beauty, for its value as a work of architecture. Yet another is social: for the value embodied in both the tangible and intangible attributes of the site to the local and wider community.

Nearly all buildings are built with the intention that they should look well, in addition to being sound and useful. The beauty of a building, or a work of architecture, may depend on the formal qualities of its design. Unlike historical authenticity, which once lost can never be regained, the formal beauty of a work of architecture may be recovered, through restoration and careful alteration.

The aim of this conservation plan is to inform the conservation, possible re-use and extension of the Place of Paisley on the basis of good conservation practice to fully realise its potential both as an annexe to the Abbey and as an individual building of interest. This section of the conservation plan examines the issues and establishes policies to guide the care of the site as a whole. The policies aim to inform the management and use of the building in accordance with its assessed level of significance.

Adoption and implementation of the policies by the managers, architects and end users of the building will enable the retention and enhancement of significance of the building for the future.


7.2 Base Policies

The Place of Paisley is a Category A listed building and is recognised as an important building on a national and/or international level. It is in good condition, and is an interesting palimpsest of monastic through to 20th century architecture. It is a building that retains key elements from various periods that form the unique character of this building.

A firm resolution to act in a conservation-led way must be taken from the beginning to ensure the principles of ‘informed conservation’ are key elements of its future. This base policy should encourage the protection and enhancement of the significant elements of the site and the reduction of risk to important fabric and character within the building.

Policy 1 – Strategy

A clear strategy for the use, conservation and management of the site should be established as a framework for the making of individual decisions.

Policy 2 – Resolution

A conservation-led approach to its future repair, conservation and management should be adopted by all interested parties, based an understanding of its significance.

Policy 3 – Vision

Through active and informed conservation, enhancement and interpretation, the continued use of the Place of Paisley should be developed, enhancing a landmark building and focal point that fully complements the Abbey and the town of Paisley.

Adopting the conservation plan establishes a formal arrangement and allows policies within the plan to help protect and enhance what is important. It places an onus on all parties to use the plan as a basis for decision making.

Policy 4 – Adoption

This conservation plan should be adopted by all interested parties and used to help guide the conservation, use and development of the Place of Paisley. This conservation plan is a dynamic document and it should be reviewed periodically to maintain its reliability. The plan should be updated when further information becomes available.

A copy should be lodged in a suitable public archive, such as at the Paisley Museum and the RCAHMS. A copy should also be made available to all consultants working on the building, now and in the future.

7.3 Conservation Philosophy

The Abbey of Paisley and the Place of Paisley are both multi-period buildings where the history of successive phases of gothic building and then successive schemes of repair and rebuilding have all added to the significance of the building. The significance of the complex of buildings lies in this combination of layers throughout the history of the building. Sometimes, the significance of a building is in a preserved or lost design. This would be the case, for instance, in a symmetrical


country house. If one wing were removed on a symmetrical front then it would be possible to reinstate or enhance significance by restoring the missing element.

The major elements of restoration – the tower, chancel, transepts and cloisters – have been carried out in the major programme of works on the first 30 years of the 20th century. These parts of the building have as much an Edwardian character as they have the character of reinstatement of missing Medieval fabric but they are some of the best Edwardian ecclesiastical work in Scotland and they achieve the goal of providing Paisley Abbey with the full cruciform plan and the cloisters that are perceived to be requirements of an abbey building.

An element of design within the Place which has been lost is the grand hall which occupied the first and second floors of the south block. Although this was an important room, much of the evidence for it, with the exception of the shape of the vault, has now been lost through alteration. The cross walls and 17th century rooms which have been inserted into this original hall all have high significance of their own and there can be no question of trying to retrieve the original hall.

The conservation philosophy, therefore, for Paisley Abbey and the Place should be to conserve the building as it has come down to us. When material has decayed it should be replaced like for like as closely as possible.

Policy 5 – Work of Considerable Significance

Works of considerable significance should be retained and respected. These parts of the building may be changed, with care, to make them suitable for a new use. However, any proposed alterations must be considered on a case by case basis to determine the appropriateness of the proposal and the need for mitigation.

Policy 6 – Work of Lesser Significance

While there should be a general presumption against change, areas of lesser significance should be regarded as being capable of being altered, providing such alteration can be justified and providing it is planned and executed with appropriate consideration, skill and care.

Policy 7 – Negative Elements

Negative elements detract from the heritage value of the building and should be removed as the opportunity arises and the original layout and fabric made good as far as possible.

The significance of the Place of Paisley should not be put at risk and conservation principles should be followed when considering alterations. Conservation principles for works to historic fabric should be sufficiently flexible to achieve an appropriate balance between the need to protect the significance of the building and the need for it to live, be used and ‘earn its keep’.

Policy 8 – Fabric Conservation Principles

i. In general, all work should be carried out in accordance with the British Standard Guide to the Principles of Conservation of Historic Buildings BS7913:1998. The definitions of terms used in this conservation plan are those set out in BS7913.

ii. Minimum intervention – No change should be effected without proper consideration, justification and good reason.


iii. Repair should be preferred to replacement.

iv. Repair should use like-for-like techniques and materials. Materials should be salvaged and re-used where possible

v. Priority should be given to maintaining and enhancing the integrity of the historic fabric over other regulations and requirements.

vi. New work should not be intrusive, and should be of the highest quality in terms of design, material and workmanship, whether it is in matching or contrasting style.

vii. Adequate historical research, investigative opening-up, recording and sampling should be carried out before and during work to inform good design and technical solutions and professional advice should be sought.

viii. The design of repair works should be undertaken with a thorough knowledge of traditional construction history and practice.

ix. Repair work should be designed to be carried out safely and consideration should be given to safety issues arising from the continued maintenance of the building.

x. It is essential that conservation work is carried out by experienced tradespeople. The work should be designed, specified and inspected by a suitably experienced conservation architect. A large part of the success of any project is in the understanding of the task and sharing of experience between all professionals and all the tradespeople involved.

xi. Whether in repair, restoration or alteration, should not draw attention unnecessarily, but should be identifiable to a discerning eye.

xii. Particular attention should be paid to matters of detail to help preserve and enhance fabric and character including, for example, specific choice of materials, detailed location of services, methods of fixing, etc.

xiii. Fabric or spaces to be altered or removed should be adequately recorded before works, following relevant guidelines and the record lodged with an appropriate public archive, such as the RCAHMS.

xiv. Detailed design development should precede implementation of all on-site works.

xv. Any compromises proposed to the above principles should flow from an options analysis and should be fully justified and agreed by all interested parties.

Harm could result from differing approaches or standards in different parts of the building, such as changes in appearance or character. A holistic approach is important.

Policy 9 – Intactness & Composition

The Place of Paisley should be considered as a whole, including all building components and the context of the building. This will ensure that component elements and spaces, and the relationships between them are protected and enhanced where possible.


Policy 10 – Restoration

Restoration may be appropriate where there is sufficient evidence.

Any repair and restoration of missing elements should be based on detailed examination of the relevant parts of the existing structure or feature. The specification of materials in building restoration should match the existing in terms of quality, materials, colour, and finishes.

It should be noted that the Peter Macgregor Chalmers drawings provide a good basis for internal restoration works.

7.4 Workmanship & Professional Advice

Inexperienced or amateur workmanship can cause irreversible damage to historic fabric, no matter how well intentioned. Relevant skills include archaeologists; structural surveyors/engineers; conservation architects; and stone conservators.

Policy 11 – Professional Advice

Suitably qualified and experienced professional advice should be employed on a consultancy basis as needed.

Policy 12 – Skilled Workmanship

Appropriate professional or craft skills and experience should be used in all work including inspection, maintenance and repairs. All contractors and consultants should have relevant historic environment qualification and experience. Earlier inappropriate repairs and materials should be reversed, where possible, providing that doing so will not cause further irreversible harm to the significance fabric.

Policy 13 – Conservation Plan

The conservation plan is designed to provide a framework to inform the future management, use, protection and conservation of the building and should be adopted by the owner, manager and end users. It is not expected that the conservation plan could ever be sufficient in detail to provide for every eventuality or answer every question that may arise in the future. It should not be used as a substitute for professional conservation advice. Any professional conservation advice sought should use the conservation plan as a guide.

7.5 Interior Policies

7.5.1 Introduction – The Architecture of the Interior

Session Room

This is an important 17th century room. It has lugged architraves to the doors with pulvinated friezes. The window surrounds are much simpler. The windows on the south wall rise full height. The walls are panelled in what appears to be pine. It is possible that this timber was originally intended to be painted. More recently, it appears to have been waxed and polished, and one area of the wall on the north side has been scraped back leaving it with poor appearance.

On the east wall is a fireplace with stone surround, timber lugged architrave and pulvinated frieze. To either side are fluted pilasters supporting an enriched


entablature. Above the fireplace is a raised bolection moulded panel which appears to have had a mitred notch taken out of its lower rail. The broad cornice has mutules with portcullises on the underside rather than the usual pattern.

This is an important room. Conservation should include repainting the ceiling which has an odd grid of staining. Paint analysis might indicate the original finish of this joinery.

The fireplace has been covered over with a board.

The floor is covered with carpet. Although a reasonable cover, it is not the way that the room would have been presented originally, which would have been a timber floor with rugs at the centre.

The ironmongery in this room is of good quality and appropriate for the doors with brass rim locks.

Policy 14 – Repair and Restore

The room should either be repainted or refinished, possibly stained and waxed to remove recent marks and to disguise the area where the finish has been removed on the north wall.

The original fireplace should be revealed and restored.

Pink Room

This is a mid 18th century room with plaster cornice decorated with egg and dart, and bead and reel. There is a lugged plaster panel over the fireplace. The room has fielded panelling to the dado and the shutters. The shutters look like later replacements and have very obviously expressed grain.

There are four light fittings which possibly do not show this room off to its best. The fireplace should be restored. Original paint colours should be researched and this might be used as a guide for the painting. Although the full carpet is not how this room would have appeared in the past, it is a practical solution for contemporary use. The various sockets have poor appearance and would be better mounted on floor boxes although the concrete floors might restrict this. As much as possible surface mounted cabling should be removed.

The original ironmongery survives.

Policy 15 – Redecoration

The room should be redecorated, new lighting installed and surface mounted cabling removed.

First Floor Corridor

The ceiling has exposed rafters with panels in between. It would not have been the intention to see the rafters in the original finish. From the mid-20th century the existing ceiling may have been intended to have been toplit from the same rooflights as light the corridor in the flat above. The walls are exposed stone. This is not the original finishing. It is possible that this corridor was panelled and probably at least plastered.

The two panelled door at the eastern end is an important early survival. Its paint finishes are also of interest and this door should not be repainted. One moulded timber is missing from the lower panel. This timber should be reinstated with a


moulding to match the rest and this timber painted in to be superficially similar to the paint colours on the rest of the door.

At the western end there are some mounts of old stained glass. There is also a door through to the 1950s stair. Next to the door in the south west corner of the room is a vertical joint which is showing some signs of separation. This might indicate a tendency of the 1950s stair to pull away from the earlier building.

There are some surface mounted services, particularly in roughly insulated pipe at the north west corner. These services would be better re-routed and hidden. Other pipes, wires and light fittings are evident over the walls. The east wall also has surface mounted conduit.

There is a lugged architrave to the pink room which is in fair condition but needs staining and polishing.

Towards the western end of the south wall of the corridor is a door to a cupboard. This is a piece of hardboard which has been stained. Its appearance is poor compared with the rest of the building and it should be replaced either with a vertically boarded door or a smaller version of the door to the 1950s stair.

Policy 16 – Repair and Restore

Surface mounted cables should be removed. The door should be repaired and maintained..

Policy 17 – Structural Integrity

A structural engineer should inspect the 1950s stair.

White Room

This is a relatively simple late 18th century room, with an earlier fireplace on the east wall. The ceiling has a plaster cornice which has possibly been skimmed or thickened for fire separation. There are five modern light fittings. Walls show some distortion but are generally in fair condition. There is a system of cracks in the ceiling running down the east walls to the cornice.

There are some splits in the panelling which could be filled with narrow strips of timber.

The white room is in fair condition. Some of the surface mounted services are disfiguring but the room is of appropriate quality.

In the small room to the west, the cornice is incomplete. This is because a small room has been introduced at the centre but the partition has since been removed. It is not necessary for the overall conservation of this building to reinstate the missing cornice.

Policy 18 – Repairs and Redecoration

Surface mounted cables should be removed, cornice reinstated fully and the room redecorated.

Policy 19 – Structural Integrity

A structural engineer should inspect the cracks.


Ministers Office

The ceiling is concrete and the walls have been stripped back to stone. This room was originally strapped and lined which is evident from the position of the fireplace relative to the wall plane. The appearance of this room reflects a 1900-1950 aesthetic of how a conserved room in a historic building might look. Although it seems that the stripped appearance was regarded as temporary.

Main Office

The ceiling is concrete. Lighting by strip lighting. The walls are stripped of plaster. The original thickness of the strapping and lining in this room is clear from the edge of the fireplace. There are remnants of a large window on the east wall. Some of the stones on these appear to have remnants of the original plaster on the hard on the face of the stone.

Library

This is an important room with late 17th century baroque plasterwork, forming a circle of flowers and leaves with panels making the ceiling rectangular. The cornice is also decorated with flowers and leaves. The quality is good for Scottish domestic plasterwork. A drawing was made of the panelling in this room. It is clear that panelling was intended since the cornice is some distance in from the wall plane. The walls have now been plastered on the hard. There are fitted bookcases, probably dating from the 1950s since they are similar to the doors and the main door of the restoration. There is a pendant light fitting. Other sockets are set above the skirting. Apart from a coat of paint, the room is in fair condition. It is possibly not suitable as an archive since there are large windows facing south and relatively thin walls.

Policy 20 – New Use

A new use should be considered for this room.

Policy 21 – Repairs

Consider restoration of the panelling.

Sitting Room

This is an interesting room for two reasons. It preserves the original barrel roof vault from the hall. It has had an interesting and high quality conservation led refit in the1950s to make it the sitting room of the flat. This has included a beam across the windows to the south west and a recess with a shallow segmental arch next to the door to the library. There is a coat of arms over the fireplace. A new door has been formed at the north east corner which originally led through to the bedrooms of the flat and now reaches the head of the stair.

This is an interesting and attractive room and although some of the interior design qualities, such as textured plasterwork and not painting over dressed stones, might not be to our taste now, it is an interesting 1950s period piece and worth respecting as a piece of work from that date. Some plasterwork in the window reveal has been damaged by the dining table. The lines of nails on the laths on the curving roof trusses are visible. It is also clear where new roof trusses have been pieced in to replace missing ones along the south side of the room.


Policy 22 – Conserve & Retain Character

This room should be respected but some alterations are possible to make it a more comfortable room for a new use.

Dining Room

This has a parquet floor and 1950s fit out. The original curving roof trusses remain. It is top lit from some lights which need a clean, otherwise the room is in fair condition.

Kitchen

The kitchen, scullery and storage in the south west part of the flat has typical 1950s character. There is a lino floor. The vault is plastered without showing the beams or trusses. There is nothing significant visible in this room apart from the trusses and perhaps the rooflight. It would be possible to expose the trusses if these rooms are altered.

Policy 23 – New Use

The room can be altered to support a new use.

Corridor

This is an intriguing space which has the trusses visible. Previous repairs to the roof structure are obvious but not intrusive. In the western part there is an internal dormer which is lit from rooflights in the main roof. It is possible that this rooflight was also intended to light the corridor below but has been covered over with a board. Consideration should be given to reinstating this effect although it might need 1 hour fire resisting glass separation if the flat is rented out.

The western part of the corridor has a similar internal dormer. The corridor broadens out at the western end to form an entrance lobby. The entrance lobby is top lit from rooflight. There is a fireplace in the western wall which has been filled with a 1950s brick and dog grate. This would be better removed to improve its appearance.

The floor of the corridor is polished red ceramic tiles which are attractive. They could be re-polished.

Policy 24 – Repair& Restoration

The reinstatement of the dormer arrangement should be considered. The fireplace should be opened up. Floors to be repaired.

Lobby

There is a lobby at the head of the stairs in the north west tower of the Place. Some boarding has been removed from the ceiling, possibly for inspection. At the south west corner there is quite major cracking in the plaster which suggests that the 1950s tower is moving away from the rest of the building. This is not necessarily a major engineering issue but it should be checked. The skirting has been removed from this corner and should be reinstated after repair.

Policy 25 – Structural

A structural engineer should be consulted.


Stair

This is a stair and stair tower in the 1950s. At the ground floor on the south side there is a medieval doorway which has been reused on the inside. There are some good carvings and label stops. The ground floor is red tiles which have been pointed with cement.

It is an attractively detailed 1950s historicist-style stair. The space is unheated and the walls are thin so it is fairly characteristic pattern of efflorescence with water condensing in the plaster and pushing out salts.

At the head of the stair is a WC up a further three stairs.

Policy 26 – Repair

General repairs required.

Policy 27 – Alteration

The space can be altered if required.

Ground Floor Rooms

These rooms were plastered on the hard originally but they have had all of the plaster stripped away and have had concrete ceilings inserted. The main significance lies in the archaeological record and stone masonry, including fireplaces in the cross walls. The historic character has been lost. In some cases, such as the western room, an earlier character could be recovered by plastering on the walls but, without covering the ceiling, it is difficult to show that the ceiling is anything other than a mid 20th century intervention.

The gent’s toilet has an intriguing 19th century door with nine pane window in it. The interior has been stripped and the ceiling is concrete.

The western end of the ground floor corridor has been partitioned off to form a kitchen. This has poor appearance and detracts from the significance of the interior.


Consideration could be made to plastering the ceiling and removal of the kitchen.

7.6 Exterior Policies

7.6.1 War Memorial

The war memorial is an elegant tall cross on an octagonal base. On the side facing west a bronze sword has been applied and there are bronze panels around the base.

Policy 29 – Conservation

Some conservation work is required to improve the appearance of the bronze which is partly tarnished.

The war memorial otherwise appears to be in good condition.

7.6.2 Cloister Garden

The cloister building was designed to be understood as a part exterior space. The relationship between the cloister and the cloister garden is important. This is spoiled by the glazed partition. It has been placed behind the cloister to form a kind of porch


next to the main door to the Abbey church. It is possible that another type of glazing system would protect the interior from weather while giving a better impression of the connection between interior and the exterior. This could be a frameless glazing system. Within the cloisters are a large number of stones which have been placed on the seat and on the north wall. This stops the seat from being used for its intended purpose. There are better ways of displaying these stones, possibly on brackets onto the wall.

The design of the cloister is clearly intended to allow for a further extension across the west side. At the western end of the western of three arcades is a buttress which is complete with capital and base, and is intended to form the respond for an arcade to the west side of the cloister. On the inside of the cloister there is a risband joint which also indicates the position where the corner to the western cloister would have been. When the cloister was built it was clearly considered that there was a strong possibility that the cloister would be completed across the western side. This possibly was still in the mind of the designer when the war memorial was built because the it aligns precisely with the central arcade on the north side which would place it at the centre of the cloister garth if the western cloister had been completed.


The glazing and partition should be removed. The ramped access should be improved. The stones should be relocated.

7.7 Adaptation to New Use and Interventions to Existing Buildings

7.7.1 Interior

Adaptation of the interior of the Place should be based on retention and enhancement of the most significant areas. Alterations can be concentrated in the areas which are considered to be less significant. In some cases, such as the kitchen area of the flat, it is clear that the current finishes, utilitarian and dating from the 1950s have no significance but the structure behind, the arched roof structure of the original hall, has high significance.

Within the second floor it is important that the ceiling and fireplace should be retained in the library. The joinery underneath the windows is pleasant and characteristic of a 1950s refit, and could also be retained. The bookcases appear to have been specifically designed for this room but could be relocated elsewhere if they are not required in a new use for this room.

Policy 31 – Restoration

The restoration of the panelling according to the Peter Macgregor Chalmers drawing is desirable.

The sitting room has significance both for the retained hall ceiling trusses, although these were not intended to be seen in their original arrangement of the hall, and also as an example of 1950s restoration. The 1950s joinery and plasterwork should be respected. The paint scheme could be altered. The light fittings might be original to the 1950s scheme and should be retained. It would be possible to alter this room in the spirit of the 1950s work if necessary to provide a new use but the general scale of the room and its detailing should be retained.


The dining room is also a pleasant space and should also be retained, although not necessarily for the same use. The corridors are attractive and particularly interesting in the eastern section with the dormer arrangement. The original rooflight arrangement should be investigated to see if it was intended to cast light down into the corridor of the ceiling below. If this was the case it should be restored if possible.

Policy 32 – Maintenance

The rooflights should be cleaned and overhauled.

The stair has moderate significance but can be altered if necessary to provide better access and a viable future for parts of the building with greater significance.

On the first floor the session room should be repaired and restored as noted in the policies for this room. This is a room of high significance and should not be altered otherwise.

The corridor is an attractive space although historically it would have been plastered. This is a room of some significance and so its general arrangement should be respected rather than altered or subdivided.

Policy 33 – General

If other work is carried out it would be desirable to remove obvious and intrusive service runs.

The pink and white rooms are also rooms of significance and should not be altered.

Policy 34 – Alteration

The office and vestry are more capable of change since they have lost their historic finishes. This also applies to the rooms on the ground floor. The central room on the south side has been adapted already by the introduction of partitions and this could be changed. The western room is the best proportioned but it has also lost its finishes and is capable of significant change. An adaptation to remove the kitchen at the western end of the corridor is desirable.

7.7.2 Exterior

Adaptations for a new use on the exterior are constrained by the general significance of the exterior masonry. There are several blocked doors and windows. The blocking material itself may have significance and should be recorded if it is to be removed.

Policy 35 – Extensions

The only part of the exterior of the Place which could accommodate an extension is to the south side of the St Mirrin aisle where there has been an extension in the past, and against the stair tower at the north west corner of the Place. This stair tower is a 1950s construction built on top of the mainly 19th century porch. It is considerably less significant than the rest of the building. Another place where external adaptation is possible would be at the west end of the cloisters where the structure has been designed to accommodate an extension.


7.7.3 The Character of the Surrounding Area

Surrounding Land

The area around the Place and abbey was acquired from 1900 onwards by a land acquisition committee. This committee purchased buildings for demolition so that the site around the abbey and the Place could be cleared. The land was given to the Council with the understanding that it would not be built upon. The land acquired seems not to have included the site of the former west range.

The character of the land around the abbey is open. To the north is a large area of grass open as far as Gauze Street. The site is faced by Paisley Town Hall and by buildings on the north side of Gauze Street. To the east this area was is faced by modern council offices which were being demolished during the time of the conservation plan.

To the west the land is also open as far as the River Cart. To the south is open land, a major road and a bridge across the Cart. The land to the south, east and west of the Place has been carefully and expensively landscaped with stone paving, stone kerbs and strips of grass. The design forms a broad sweep around the south and west side of the Place with a pedestrianised area leading up to the west front of the abbey. This is entirely current context and has little to do with the historic setting of the abbey and its associated building. Since the 18th century, the abbey and the Place were much more hemmed in by buildings than they are now.

The buildings now have a much more direct relationship with the River Cart than they had in the past. In general the landscape context is now felt to be appropriate for the abbey and the Place.

7.7.4 Setting of the Buildings - Materials

The current paving up to the west front of the Abbey is of a relatively hard material. The raised level of the paving emphasises the lean of the west front and obscures the detail of the base.

Policy 36 – Setting

There has been a strong popular movement for at least 100 years towards clearing buildings away and showing the abbey in isolation. The abbey is a vital component in the centre of Paisley and so there is a contemporary need for it to be prominent and seen uncluttered from a distance.

Policy 37 – Materials

If an opportunity arises, consideration should be given to replacing hard landscaping around the perimeter of the Abbey with a softer material, and to lowering the level at the west front.

7.7.5 Additions and Extensions

New Buildings and Extensions

As well as its physical impact on the existing building, a new building must be considered according to a number of criteria. The form of the building should be secondary to the Abbey and Place of Paisley. It would not be appropriate to build an iconic building which draws attention to itself. There is enough high quality and impressive architecture on the site and a new building will not be the prime reason for visiting the site. However, this must be balanced with the need to make a new


building attractive and clearly expressive of its function. If a new building is intended to provide a new entrance to the abbey and Place of Paisley and it must have an open character and be welcoming.

The style of a new building will be a matter for the designer and their client. However, the history of style within the abbey building has been that each phase has been carried out in the current style of the period. This is particularly evident in the tracery from different centuries in the arches to the south side of the south aisle. The early 20th century work is entirely characteristic of its period, even though its builders were probably intending their building to look convincingly medieval. It is a typical Scots Gothic Revival building and also typical of the work of its architects.

There is no dominant style on the site, each part being built with the characteristics of the period. All of the architecture can either be classified as either Gothic or Scottish Domestic Vernacular. The only architecture of Classical taste on the site is the session room and the pink and white rooms.

Policy 38 – New Build

The evidence of many different periods on this site suggest that a new building should be clearly and recognisably contemporary.

However, overt contemporary architecture might provide an unnecessary obtrusive note. It is possible to design a contemporary building which acknowledges the repetitive bay pattern of Gothic and the materials and structural systems of both the Abbey and the Place without being a pastiche.

An alternative approach would be to build in a historic revival style. It would be possible, for instance, to build a replica of the missing building on the west side of the cloister. However, the evidence of this building is not complete. There are photographs of how the building looked but they do not cover the whole building. No drawn survey has survived. This building was not a single design which would unify or complete the building complex other than by being a block that completes the fourth side of the quadrangle. The narrowness of the building and its height and arrangement does not make it necessarily useful for a new use. Exercises in rebuilding to match the missing building are sometimes attempted but this is a difficult and expensive path to do well and it is certainly not worth doing unless it can be done very well. The example of the St Mungos Museum at Glasgow Cathedral shows how inauthentic a new building in a historical style can look.

Materials can be made to be continuous with the existing buildings. With the exception of the copper roofs on the cloister and the chancel, all visible roofs are Scots slate. All of the existing buildings are built of stone, generally rubble stone with dressed stone around the openings. There is a strong precedent for stone walls and timber frames to window openings on this site. The variation in roof materials suggests that one of the precedents of copper or slate could be followed or a different roofing material could be used as long as the colour is carefully controlled to be in keeping with the generally muted tones on the existing buildings.

Policy 39 – Materials of New Build

There is a strong precedent for stone walls and timber frames to window openings on this site.


Policy 40 – Form of New Build

There is a strong precedent on the site for massing with blocks with pitched roofs rising to ridges.

The majority of the ridges pass east – west including the dominant ridge of the nave and chancel above the abbey. The two places where this massing does not apply is at the head of the tower which is at the summit building of the whole complex, and in less prominent buildings such as the sacristy. The stair tower built in the 1950s at the north west corner of the Place also breaks the established tradition of gabled and ridged structures. It has a hipped roof rising to a short length of ridge.

The roofs over the cloister were designed to be not prominent and in some cases not visible from ground level. In these cases the parapet line is more important than the roof behind it.

There are many different forms that the massing of a new building could take on site around the Place and still be appropriate architecture. It should be noted though that the form of the previous building on the west side of the cloister was a two storey building which had a ridge line running north-south. This was at right angles to the wall of the abbey. The scar left by the pitch of this roof is still evident on the western end of the south wall of the abbey.

Further evidence about the form of the original building on the west side of the cloister would be provided by archaeological investigation. As with other indicators of the former building, this need not be an absolute guide to how a new building should look.

Policy 41 – Design Precedent

Each of the precedents and materials, form and massing can be taken as a guideline in the design of a new building.

All sites around the Place are sensitive both in terms of archaeology and historical and visual appropriateness. The site with the strongest evidence for the pre-existing building is on the west side of the cloister. This is the most recent missing building for which we have evidence. The remaining demolished buildings were removed before surviving drawn or photographic records. The only exception to this is the loggia and stair on the eastern end of the south block.

Evidence on the building shows that the central block on the east side of the cloister to the south of the St Mirrin Aisle did extend further eastwards as part of the chapter house, this site is too sensitive because it is the site of a major medieval monastic building even though much of the archaeology will have been damaged with the formation of the boiler house towards the start of the 20th century.

Policy 42 – Location

There are benefits in locating a new building on the west side of the cloister. There is a strong precedent for a building which includes or provides circulation around all four sides of the cloister, as in almost any monastic foundation, whatever its appearance.

The parts of the existing building which would be physically impacted upon by a new building on the west side of the cloister – the corner of the Macgregor Chalmers north cloister wall and the 1958-60 stair tower block at the west end of the south block of the Place - both have relatively little significance compared to other parts of


the Place. In addition, it can be shown that the west bay of the north cloister walk was intended to accommodate a southwards extension to complete the west side of the cloister. Macgregor Chalmers detailed his building to allow for this extension in the future. He almost certainly imagined that it would copy the detailing of the north cloister.

Clearly, a building in any location around the Place would impact on archaeology. If a new building is needed, archaeology should not be considered a factor which prevents construction but the archaeological policies in this conservation plan should be followed.

The building on the west side of the cloister would have important relationships with the existing buildings and structures. The north side of the cloister is a carefully designed symmetrical arrangement, or was intended to be if the western side of the cloister had been built according to Macgregor Chalmers’ design.

Policy 43 – Location

There is an important axial relationship with the War Memorial cross which stands at the centre of the cloister garden. A new building to the west would change the character of the cloister and this should be considered carefully so that the new character is appropriate.

It is probable that the design of the cloister was intended that it should be a much more enclosed, self contained area. It probably was not intended for it to be open to the west. The War Memorial cross has been placed centrally in the intended cloister yard and although it is of a large scale it is possible that it was designed to be appropriate for a more enclosed space than at present. The landscaping, such as the grass and bushes, might be considered to be a contemporary response to the space being open to the west and therefore part of the wider landscape.

Policy 44 – Landscaping

If the cloister becomes enclosed as originally intended it might be that harder surfaces are more appropriate.

The cloister designed by Macgregor Chalmers has a very definite rhythm of three groups of six closely spaced arches. It might be possible to reflect this kind of rhythm in a new building facing the cloister garth. It is not necessary to repeat the architecture precisely.

There are other concerns which are embodied within good contemporary design which would not have affected the design of the abbey, its restoration, or the 1950s alterations. New buildings must meet building standards and contemporary design could also be said to have a growing theme of recognising issues of ecology and sustainability. The Place was probably quite a sustainable building according to current ecological terms when it was first built. Transport was minimised and it was built with high labour and natural materials. Ecological standards were reduced by the removal of internal wall materials.

Policy 45 – Ecological Standards

New buildings have to be serviced and constructed according to certain standards but the standards required for a building appropriate to this location are well above the minimum for contemporary construction standards.


7.8 Access, Interpretation & Training

7.8.1 Access

Access to the building is fair generally. It is possible for people with restricted mobility to get into the abbey church and to the ground floor of the Place. St Mirrin’s Aisle is up a set of steps and so is not accessible. A ramp has been provided between the nave and chancel. The ramp which reaches the eastern of the two doors in the south aisle provides the main access. It has been designed sensibly but there is an uncomfortable relationship with the door that has been introduced across the eastern end of the north cloister. This restricts movement.

Access to the first floor of the Place is possible for people with restricted mobility by using a chair lift in the north west stair tower. This is a restrictive form of access and would need help from a member of staff in order to operate.

Access for people with restricted mobility to the second floor of the Place or to the flat above the white room is not possible.

The recent landscaping around the Abbey and Place primarily addresses the Town Hall. The historic route to the north west porch of the abbey church, which is still marked in the arrangement of the gravestones, has been lost. The entrance is now through the cloister, which would originally have been a place of contemplation. It would be an advantage to have the option to separate those attending the Abbey church (for example for a service or funeral) from tourists or community uses, on occasion.

Policy 46 – Access

Consider existing arrangements and improve where possible.

Consideration should be given to restoring the historic entrance to the Abbey church from the north west porch, and reinstating the path through the graveyard.

7.8.2 Interpretation, Visitor Management & Training

The visitor can see most of the important parts of the abbey interior and is also able to see the ground floor of the Place. Visitors for conferences and members of the congregation are able to see the important rooms on the first floor of the Place. The second floor of the Place is less often seen – almost never by the general public and seldom by the majority of the congregation.

Interpretation is provided in the sacristy.

The building has considerable potential for interpretation covering medieval monasteries, medieval politics, post Reformation period, the visit of King James VI, the later history of the Place and its surroundings, the 20th century restoration and the people that paid for it. The abbey building itself has enormous potential for investigation and education. Interpretive plans have been written for the abbey in the past. One is by Hayley Sharp Associates (11 – 15 Guildhall Lane, Leicester) in association with First Interpreters (Hatton Country World, Hatton, Warwick) dated August 1992. Another study called “Presenting Paisley – The Interpretation Strategy of the Town” prepared by James Carter in February 1998 includes the abbey. A lot has developed in interpretation advice over the last ten years and so it is probable that fresh interpretation advice will be needed.


Policy 47 – Interpretation

Visitor access to interpretation should be improved, taking advantage of new technologies where appropriate.

Access to drawings and the building process should be considered, e.g. through the Abbey website.

7.9 Archaeological Issues

Extent of archaeological survival

There is a degree of uncertainty as to how extensive ground-reduction may have been during the episode of road-widening of 1874. Certainly it seems that levels were reduced to below the ground level visible in contemporary photographs of the range, which show the scarcement of the plinth of the range just above pavement level. However this may itself indicate there had been considerable build-up of the adjacent exterior ground surface against the plinth of the building (such plinth courses can commonly lie above multiple further courses of facings). It is suggested that, unless there was a concerted effort to grub up the foundations of the structure, footings will likely survive at the very least.

It is possible, even likely, that the depth of archaeological deposition will be considerable in the area of the west range, the natural contour of the land having formerly sloped markedly down to the west and south where it runs down to the bank of the White Cart Water. Considerable depth of make-up survives further to the south and southwest.

Policy 48 - A Research Framework for Paisley Abbey

It is recommended that the study of the Place of Paisley be set within a wider research framework for the study of the history, architecture and archaeology of the wider Paisley Abbey site. There is already considerable research interest in the site, including a series of individual project works already undertaken (such as the investigations of the abbey drain) and academic gatherings relating to the understanding of the site (the most recent being the Cluny 2010 : Scotland conference organized by the Fédération des Sites Clunisiens).

Policy 49 - Survey of the Place of Paisley - General Dimensional Survey

In the absence of a reliable existing general survey drawings of the Place of Paisley it is recommended that a new dimensionally accurate base survey of the Place of Paisley be completed. This would be comprehensive and would include plans at each level, elevations and sections. A new base survey will form a necessary part of developing an architectural scheme.

Policy 50 - Survey of the Place of Paisley - Archaeological Detail

It is recommended that the necessary survey of the complex be combined with a detailed recording of the archaeological evidence that it incorporates – including mapping of surviving architectural features, construction breaks, analytically significant features, phasing data, etc. This would provide a reliable basis for the detailed understanding of the complex, a basic resource for future research work. Existing survey drawings do not permit a reliable mapping of the analytical evidence – for this reason the phased drawing set included within this report can only be considered as indicative.


Policy 51 - Evaluation on Site of the West Range

With the possibility that the area of open ground on the west side of the Place of Paisley may be considered for new architectural proposals it is essential to understand the archaeological implications of development in that area. This will be required as a matter of course as part of the Planning process and will involve a prior desk-based assessment of historic sources relating to the site. Given the known sensitivity of the area – as the site of the monastic west range and associated structures – an archaeological evaluation will certainly be required and is recommended at as early a stage in the design process as possible. The extent of archaeological survival on the site may have an implication upon what is possible or desirable in terms of new design. Discussion with the West of Scotland Archaeology Service, as advisors to the Planning Authority, is recommended at an early stage.

Policy 52 - Dendrochronological Analysis and Comparative Analysis of the South Range Roof Structure

The oak-framed roof structure over the main body of the south range is individually of outstanding importance. Determination of its exact significance will relate closely to whether it can be dated accurately. This is in relation to the medieval and post-Reformation history of the abbey itself; in terms of its being an exceptionally rare survival of an early structure of high status and unusual quality; and in terms of understanding early carpentry traditions in Scotland. It is recommended that the roof structure be assessed for its potential for the recovery of tree-ring (dendrochronological) dates, and then a suitable programme be commissioned.

Policy 53 - Assessment of Other Roofs for Their Dating Potential

It is recommended that other historic roofs at the Place of Paisley also be assessed for their potential to provide tree-ring dates. This might include the early pine roofs above the gallery in the south range and above the Church Officer’s flat (south end of the east range). Some assessment might similarly be made of the other roofs at Paisley Abbey above the St Mirrin aisle and the nave and aisles of the church.

Policy 54 - Carved Stones

It is recommended that a formal record and catalogue be made of the outstanding collection of ex situ carved medieval stones preserved at the Abbey (the majority of which are now in the cloister walk). Such a record should also include ex situ stones that have been incorporated into the standing fabric of the site.

Some assessment should also be made of the possibilities for the long-term curation and display of the loose stones – perhaps on interpretative display within a proposed new building.

Policy 55 - Abbey Archive

While some of the more important early documents that form part of the Abbey collection have been vested with the national collections there still remains a very important and complete archive of documents and associated material within the archive room within the Place of Paisley. It is recommended that the archive collection and facilities be assessed by a professional archivist and recommendation be made as to whether improvement can be made to bring the


care of the collection up to current recognised standards. Preferably this archival material should remain within the Place of Paisley.

The archive holding might also be improved, to include copies of more resent research reports and records that relate to the understanding of the history of the Abbey and its wider site.

Policy 56 - Abbey Collection

In addition to the collection of early carved stones and the Abbey archive there also exists a considerable cumulative collection of other materials - artworks, early furniture, objects, textiles, and other miscellaneous items – that relate to the history of the Abbey. It is recommended that these be recorded, and an inventory made. Professional assessment should be made of any necessary conservation requirements.

Policy 57 - Publication

New archaeological or analytical survey work should be suitably published. This is usually achieved in the first instance by a notice in Discovery and Excavation in Scotland, published by Archaeology Scotland. Such is the significance of the site, and of the finds already made, that it is recommended that a fuller account be published in a suitable academic journal such as Scottish Archaeological Journal or the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.

There is a substantial level of current interest in the Abbey, both from specialists and the general public in and around Paisley and nationwide. A conference was held in Paisley to mark the 1100th anniversary of the founding of the monastic Order of Cluny – Scotland’s Cluniac Heritage Conference – in May 2010.

Policy 58 - Public Archaeology

If archaeological evaluation or other archaeological or historical research is carried out then opportunities should be sought to engage with and involve interested local parties, the local history society, schools, and other appropriate organizations in a co-operative exercise. Such an involvement should be managed through the involvement of a professional archaeological organisation and with due reference to the appropriate regulatory bodies.

7.10 Statutory and Non-Statutory Constraints

7.10.1 Listed Building Consent & Conservation Area Consent

The building is Category A listed. The Place of Paisley is therefore recognised as being of national and/or international importance. Listing gives a building statutory protection against unauthorised demolition, alteration and extension.

Listed building consent from Renfrewshire Council will be required prior to any programme of conservation and alteration works for this Category A listed building and consultation with Council should be undertaken early in the programme to determine any specific requirements of Council as part of attaining listed building consent.

Policy 59 - Listed Building Consent

It is important that listed building consent is obtained prior to conservation and alteration works being carried out. Although it may not answer specific questions


raised as part of a Listed Building Consent applications, the conservation plan should be used to assist in this process.

The Scottish Historic Environment Policy (SHEP), October 2008 by Historic Scotland provides guidelines for listed buildings and conservation areas and should be referred to.

7.11 Maintenance

Maintenance

A maintenance schedule should be produced as part of the quinquennial inspection.

Policy 60 – Maintenance Plan

A maintenance, or housekeeping, plan for the care of the fabric of the building should be prepared once it has been repaired and restored.


Appendix I

A3 Drawings


Appendix II

Archaeological Evaluation Method Statement

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