the cotton textile worker's handbook; (1920)

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} Theotton Textile Worker's

Handbook

A CONVENIENT REFERENCE BOOKFor All Persons Interested In

he Spinning of CottonYarns, the Weaving ofCotton Fabrics, and the Yarn and Cloth

Calculations Incidental

Thereto

BY

International Correspondence Schools

SCRANTON, PA.

2d Edition, 7th Thousand, 2d Impression

scranton, pa.

International Textbook Company

PREFACEIn this work, the publishers have not attempted

to produce a condensed cyclopedia covering theottensive field of cotton manufacturing, but theyhave aimed to present a useful reference bookconvenient to carry in the pocketa pocketbookin truthand containing information, especiallyrules, tables, etc., often used and required bysuperintendents, overseers, fixers, and, in fact, allpersons engaged or interested in the great cottontextile manufacturing industry and its manyramifications.

The intention has been to select from a vastamount of material only that which is most likelyto be of use in connection with daily work or towhich reference will be made most frequently.The treatment of many subjects is of necessitybrief, but these matters have been covered to thefull extent of the available space, and the textrelating thereto includes that which is mostvaluable for frequent reference. The materialon yarn calculations, cloth calculations, anddraft calculations presents, in each case, a fin-ished treatise that, it is hoped, will prove ofgreat value. Many tables are included and a

iii

IV PREFACE

great number of these, such as, for instance, thecotton-yarn numbering table, the cotton-rovingnumbering table, and the many tables indicatingthe production of various machines under a

wide range of conditions, should prove of daily

use. Other tables and much information anddata relative to the timing, setting, and adjust-ment of textile machinery will be of importance

on many occasions. Great care has been taken

to insure the accuracy of the large number of

rules included, and these will be found entirely

trustworthy.This handbook has been prepared by, and

-under the supervision of, Mr. C. J. Brickett,

Principal of our School of Textiles.

International Correspondence Schools

January, 1920

INDEX

Adjusting dobby knives,266

shuttle-feeler thread cut-ter, 290

the binders, 260the lug strap, 259the protector motion, 260

Adjustment of filling-changing mechanism,287

Advantages of metallicrolls, 145

Albert twill, Filling-flush,312.

twill", Warp-flush, 312All-seed cotton, 95Allowance for size, 54Allowances made in calcu-

lating production anddraft of metallic rolls,83

on calculated productionof ring frames, 202

American cotton, 94cotton. Drawing-roll set-tings for, 147

Amsterdam system of num-bering woolen yarns, 25

Angle of twills, 310Angled draft, 308Angular measure, 338Apothecaries' weight, 335Artificial silk, 23Automatic feeder, 106looms, 273stop-motions, 245

Average counts of cloth, 58counts of cloth. Rule to

find, 58, 67counts. Rule to find, 45

Average number of yarn be-ing spun. Rule to find,205

numbers, 45yards per pound, deniersystem, 20

Avoirdupois weight. Tableof, 334

Back knife plate, 123rolls, 72

Backing oH, 208Bale breaker, 105Banging off, 261Basket weaves, 319weaves, Fancy, irregular,and twilled, 320

Bat-wing pick, 248Beam warpers, Production

of, 233warping, 230

Beamed yarns, 42Beams, Loom, 42Bearings, Table of dis-'

tances between, 349Beater, 108Beating up, 245, 249Bedford-cord weaves, 332

cords. Piques and, 328Belt fastenings, 353Rule to find length ofcrossed, 356

Rule to find length ofopen, 356

Belts, 352Care of, 352Horsepower transmittedby, 357

Length of, 356Quarter-turn, 354

INDEX

Benders cotton, 95Bier, 52Binders, Adjusting the, 260Bloom, 100Bobbins, 195

Sizes of, 195Bonnet, 'Doffer, 125Licker, 122

Bex chains. Building, 269looms, 267motions. Timing of, 272

Boxes, Leveling the, 272Break draft, 80Breaker, Bale, 105

picker, 108Breaking weight of Ameri-

can cotton warp yarns,Average, 34

weight of cotton warpyarn, 33

Broken crow weave. Fill-ing-flush, 312

crow weave, Warp-fltish,313

Brown Egyptian cotton, 95Brush gauge, 168Builder gear on mule. Rule

to find, 216Building box chains, 269

CCabled yarns, 219Calculating draft of com-

mon rolls, 78Calculation of colored

mixes, 117Calculations, Card-clothing,

128Cloth, 48Comber, 166Draft, 71Fly-frame, 178for filling yarn, 54for ring frames, 198for slashers, 237for twisters, 219for warp yarn, 52Harness, 50Loom, 250Mechanical, 347Ply-yarn, 35Yarn, 1

Cam looms, 256Campbell twill, 313Cam-shaft gears on looms.

Rule for finding, 256Cams on more than 2-har-

ness work, Setting, 256Rule to find throw ofharness, 247

Setting selvage, 257Shedding by, 245Timing cbmber, 170

Card clothing, 126-clothing calculations; 128clothing. Crown of, 128clothing, English counts

of, 132clothing, English methodof numbering, 131

clothing, Rule to findpoints per square footin, 129

Draft of, 135production, 136Revolving-top flat, 120slivers. Weights of cot-ton, 137

tooth. Crown of, 126tooth. Knee of, 126waste, 136

Carded warp yarns, Ruleto find standard break-ing weight of, 34

Carding, Objects of, 120Cards, Care of, 137Cotton, 120Management of, 141Setting, 138Weight and horsepower

of, 136Care of belts, 352of cards, 137of combers, 171of cotton-harness warpstop-motion, 290

of pickers, 119of shuttle. Position and,288

of steel-harness warpstop-inotion, 291

Carriage, Mule, 205Cassimere twill, 312Cellulose, 93

INDEX

Cellulose silk, 23Center draft, 307Chain draft, 264

drafts, 304Chains, Pegging harness,

264Building box, 269

Change gear, 362gears, Fly-frame, 183

Changing counts on mule,214

Check weaves, 323Circle, 342Pitch, 363Rule to find circumfer-ence and area of, 343

Circular pitch, 363Circumferential speed of

pulleys, 351Classification of cotton, 98Classifying cotton, 100Cloth, Average counts of,

58calculations, 48calculations. Short rules

for, 67Counts of, 48Cover on, 258measure, 337Rule to find averagecounts of, 58, 67

Rule to find weight of,in ounces per yard, 56

Rule to find yards perpound of, 56, 57

samples, Figuring partic-ulars from, 57

Slasher, 236Thin places in, 261Weight of, 56Weight of cotton, 48Weight of woolen, 49Weight of worsted, 49Width of, 57Yards per pound of, 57

Clothing, Card, 126cylinder and doffer, 132flats, 132Open-set, 131Plain-set, 131Points per square foot in

rib-set, 130

Clothing, Points per squarefoot in twill-set, 131

Rib-set, 128Twilled, 128

Cohoes system of number-ing woolen yarns, 25

Coiler head, 125Colored mixes. Calculation

of, 117Combed warp yarns. Rule

to find standard break-ing weight of, 35

Comber, 161calculations, 166cushion-plate settings, 168cylinders. Setting andtiming, 170

Double-nip, 163feed-roll setting, 168gauge, 168settings, 167Single-nip, 161timings, 169waste, 173waste. Percentage of, 174

Combers, Care of, 171Setting of, 167Timing of, 168

Combination weaves, 322Combing, 155Combs, Setting top, 171Common rolls, 142

rolls. Calculating draftof, 78

rolls. Drafting with, 72rolls. Weighting ofsingle-boss, 149

Compound levers, 266-sizing test, 19

Condenser, 109Cone, 345

or pyramid, Rui'e to findvolume of, 345

or pyramid. Rule to findvolume of frustum of,346

pick, 248Constant dividend, 363

factor, 362for builder change gearon mule. Rule to find,217 .

INDEX

Constant for twist on flyframes, Rule to find, 181

for twist on mule, Ruleto find, 209

for twist on ring frames,Rule to find, 200

of gearing. Rule to find,363

Rule to find draft, 88Constants, 88, 362for equivalent cottoncounts, 27

for finding loom produc-tion, 253

Twist, 28Contraction, 53in leno and lappet fab-

rics, 64Rule to estimate warp, 69Warp, 53

Corkscrew twills, 321weaves, 321

Cost of ply yarns. Rule tofind, 40

Cotton, 92Allan-seed, 95American, 94Benders. 95Brown Egyptian, 95cards, 120cards, Speed calculations

for, 133characteristics. Table of,96

classification, Govern-ment, 99

Classification of, 98Classifying, 100cloth. Weight of, 48designing, 302duck, Weight of, 49fiber. Measurements of,93

fiber. Strength of. 93fiber, Structure of, 92Grades of American, 98Gulf, or New Orleans, 94-harness warp stop-mo-

tion. Care of, 290Memphis, 95mill. Organization of, 294-mill planning, 294

Cotton mixing, 103mixing, Rule to findnumber of sectionsa 104

Oklahoma, 95Peelers, 95-roving numbering table,

13,

Sea-island, 94Specific gravity of, 93Texas, 95Uplands, 95warp yarn, Breakingweight of, 33

World's production of,101

weaving, 245yarn and roving, Tableof dividends for num-bering, 16

-yarn numbering table, 5-yarn preparation, 92-yarn preparation, Proc-esses and objects of,102

yarns. Table of lengthfor, 2

yarns. Table of weightfor, 2

Counter faller, 208Countershafts, 347Effect of, on speed, 351Rules to find diameter

of, 348Counts, 1Average, 45Constants for equivalentcotton, 27

Denier and dram equiva-lent, 23

Equivalent, 26of card clothing, English,

132of cloth, 48of cloth. Average, 58of cloth. Rule to findaverage, 67

of cotton yarn. Methodsof finding, 16

of filling, 61of filling. Rule to findaverage, 68

INDEX ISL

Counts of filling to preserveweight of cloth, Ruleto find, 67

of filling to preserveyards per pound. Ruleto find, 61

of warp yarn, 58of yarn on a beam. Rule

to find, 43of yarn to be folded withanother to produce agiven count. Rule tofind, 37

on mule, Changing, 214Rule to find average, 45Rule to find, when weightand length are given, 1

Short methods of findingequivalent, 27

Cover on cloth, 258Covering of top rolls, 142Cradle gauge, 168Crossed belt, Rule to find

length of, 356Crow twill. Filling-flush,

312twill. Warp-flush, 312

Crown of card clothing, 128of card tooth, 126

Cubic measure, 338Curved twills, 314Cushion-plate settings,

Comber, 168Cut mark, 323system of numberingwoolen yarns, 24

Weight of, 60Cutting, 322

Filling, 262picks, 329

Cycles of mangle gear.Rule to find, 365

Cylinder, 344and doffer, Clothing, 1325ule to find surface area

of, 344Rule to find volume of,345

Timing dobby, 267Cylinders, Setting and

timing comber, 170

DDead roll, 137weighting, 148

Delivery rolls, 73Denier, 17and dram equivalentcounts, 23

of raw silk yarns, Ruleto find, 21

system, Average yardsper pound, 20

_

-system conversion table,19

system of numbering silkyarns, 17

Dent, 51Dents per inch in reed>

Rule to find, 55Derivatives, Satin, 319Design, Elements of tex-

tile, 302Designing, Cotton, 302Diameter, 342Diameters of shafts. Rules

to find, 348of English and Americanstandard wire, 127

Diametral pitch, 364Diamond weaves, 316Dimensions of fly frames,

189of ring spinning frames,

196of twisters, 226

Distance between bearings.Table of, 349

between hangers, 349Dividend, Constant, 363Dividends for numbering

cotton yarn and roving,.Table of, 16

Dobbies, 262Double-index, 264Double-lift, 264Single-index, 264Single-lift, 264

Dobby cylinder, Timing,267

knives, Adiusting, 266Timing a, 265

Doff^er bonnet, 125Clothing cylinder and, 132

INDEX

Dofifer, Speed of, 135Double-boss rolls, 142

filling-fork arrangement,285

-index dobbies, 264-lift dobbies, 264-nip comber, 163satins, 318-section pickers, 109-threaded worms, 364

Doubling, 72, 90Draft, Angled, 308Break, 80calculations, 71Center, 307Chain, 264constant. Rule to find, 88Drawing-in, 50, 303gear, 183gear on mule, Rule to

find, 214gear. Rule to find, 87, 89,

184gears, 86Harness, 304Irregular point, 307Methods of finding, 74of card, 135of intermediate and fin-

isher pickers, 116of metallic rolls. Allow-ances made in calculat-ing production and, 83

of metallic rolls. Increasein, 86

Point, 307Rule to find, 78, 87, 88, 89,

91section, 309Skip, 308Straight, 306

Drafting, 71Objects of, 71with common rolls, 72

Drafts, Chain, 304Irregular reed, 62Resular point, 307Satin, 308Standard types of draw-ing-in, 306

Dram system of numberingsilk yarns, 21

Draw of mule, 207Drawing frames, 150frames, Gearing of, 153frames, Management ofl

155frames, Production of

154-in draft, SO, 303-in drafts. Standard type^]

of, 306 \-roll settings for Ameri'can cotton, 147

rolls, 142rolls. Setting of, 145

Draws in a cop, Rule tc|find number of, 217

Driven and driving pulleys. Rules for findingdiameters and revolutions of, 350

gear. Rule to find speecof. 361

gears. Driving and, 77Dry measure, 336twisters, 219

Dual function of straddlbug, 285

Duck, Weight of cotton, 4!

Early picking, 259Eccentricity of lay, 249Egyptian cotton. Brown, 9!Elements of textile design

302English counts of care

clothing, 132method of numberingcard clothing, 131

Ends, 48in cloth. Rule to find, 5;in pattern. Rule to find47

in warp, 60of each color, counts, oimaterial, in warp. Ruleto find number of, 61

on a beam. Rule to find43

Selvage, 52Entwining twill. Fancy

314

INDEX

Entwining twills, 313;qually-flush weaves, 310equivalent cotton counts,

Constants for, 27counts, 26counts, Denier and dram,23

counts. Short methods offinding, 27

Ivener motion, 110^xtra-filling spot weaves,

328-warp fabrics. Harnessand chain drafts for,327

-warp spot weaves, 325

F'actor. Constant, 362""ancy basket weaves, 320entwining twill, 314filling patterns, 65twills, 313warp patterns, 61warps, 46

"astenings. Belt, 353"eed-roll, Setting and tim-

ing, 170-roll setting, Coinber, 168-rolls, 72

"eeder. Automatic, 106^eeler filling-changing de-

vice, 283filling-changing mecha-nism, Setting of, 289

Shuttle, 277Feet of lum^ber. Rules to

find, 347Figuring particulars from

cloth samples, 57Fillet, 128Filleting, 128Rule to find length of, 133

Filling, 46-changing device. Feeler,

283-changing mechanism, 273-changing mechanism. Ad-justment of, 287

-changing mechanism.Setting of feeler, 289

Filling corkscrew weaves,321

Counts of, 61cutting, 262-flush Albert twill, 312-flush broken crow weave,

312-flush crow twill, 312-flush prunelle twill, 312-flush satin weaves, 317-flush weaves, 310-fork arrangement,Double, 285

Kinky, 262Knocking off, 261motion, 280patterns, Fancy, 65-rib weaves, 321Rule to find averagecounts of, 68

Rule to find weight of, 56spinning frames. Produc-tion of, 204

-spot weaves, 324stop-motion. Timing the,260

Wadding, 328Weight of, 56yarn, 46yarn, Calculations for, 54yarn. Rule to find hanks

of, 70yarn. Rule to find weight

of, 70yarn. Travelers for, 194

Finger gauge, 168Finisher pickers. Draft of

intermediate and, 116pickers, Intermediate and,

110Fixing Northrop looms, 287Flat strippings, 124Flats, Clothing, 132Speed of, 135

Floor space for cotton millmachinery. Table ofmachines and, 300

Fluid measure. Apotheca-ries', 336

Fly-frame bobbins, Rule tofind speed of. 181frame calculations, 178

INDEX

Fly-frame change gears, 183frame, Rule to find pro-duction of, 185

frames, 175frames. Dimensions of,

189frames. Production of,

186frames, Rule to find con-

stant for twist on, 181frames, Speed of, 188frames, Standard sizes

of, 189frames, Twist constants

for, 188Flying, Shuttles, 261Folded yarns of different

counts, 37yarns of the same counts.35

Frames, Fly, 175Drawing, 150

Front knife plate, 125rolls, 73

Frustum of pramid or cone,Rule to find volume of,346

GGauge box, 109Brush, 168Comber, 168Cradle, 168Finger, 168of spinning frames, 197Quadrant, 168Step, 168

Gear blank. Rule to finddiameter of, 364

Change, 362Draft, 183Lay, 183Rule to find take-upchange, 251

Taper, 183Tension. 183Traverse, 183Twist, 183

Gearing, 361of drawing frames, 153of measuring motion, 114of rolls, 75

Gears, Draft, 86Driving and driven, 77Mangle, 365

Grades of American cotton,98

Gravity spindle, 195Grinder, Traverse, 138Grinding, 137

rolls, 137Ground weave, 325Gulf, or New Orleans, cot-

ton, 94Gum, 22

HHangers, Distance be-

tween, 349Hank, 1

of roving. Rule to find,91

of roving. Rule to findaverage, 185

Hanks of filling yarn.Rule to find, 70

of warp yarn. Rule tofind. 70

per spindle on ringframes. Rule to find,202

Harness calculations, 50cams, Rule to find throw

of, 247chains. Pegging, 264and chain drafts for ex-tra-warp fabrics, 327

draft, 304Rule to find number ofheddles on, 50

Harnesses, 48Head shaft, 347Headstock, Mule, 205Heddles on a harness. Rule

to find number of, 50Hemp yarns, System of

numbering, 25Heptagon, 342Herring-bone stripes, 314Hexagon, 342Honeycomb weaves, 322Hopper, 278Horsepower of belt. Rule

to find, 357

INDEX

Horsepower of mules, 218transmitted by belts, 357transmitted by ropes,Rule to find, 359

Inside taper, 132Intermediate and finisher

pickers, 110and finisher pickers.Draft of, 116

Irregular basket weaves,320

point draft, 307reed drafts, 62

JJute yarns. System of num-

bering, 25K

Kinky filling, 262Knee of card tooth, 126Knife plate. Back, 123

plate. Front, 125Knive^ Adjusting dobby,

266Mote, 122

Knocking off filling, 261li

Lap, 108Lappet fabrics. Contrac-

tion in leno and, 64Laps, Weight of, 119Late picking, 259Lay, Eccentricity of, 249gear, 183gear. Rule to find, 185

Leather detaching roll.Setting and timing, 170

Left-hand twist, 28Length of belts, 356

of open belt. Rule tofind, 356

of staple, lOOof warp. Rule to find, 44of warp that can beplaced on a beam. Ruleto find, 44

of yarn, Rule to find,when weight and countsare known, 2

Lengths of yarns. Stand-ard, 24

Leno and lappet fabrics.Contraction in, 64

Let-off motions, 245Leveling the boxes, 272Lever, Rule to find weights

supported by, 367weighting, 148

Levers, 366Licker bonnet, 122screen, 122Speed of, 135

Licking, 119Line, Pitch, 363

shafts, 347shafts, Rules to finddiameter of, 348

Linear measure, 336Linen yarns. System of

numbering, 24Liquid measure, 335Little Falls system cf

numbering woolenyarns, 25

Long measure, 336Loom beams, 42calculations, 250production, Constants for

finding, 253Rule to find production

of, 252The Northrop, 273

Looms, Automatic, 273Box, 267Cam, 256Plain, 245Short method of findingproduction of, 253

Loose-boss rolls, 142Lug strap, Adjusting the,

259Lumber, Mensuration of,

347Rules to find feet of, 347

MMachines and floor space

for cotton mill ma-chinery. Table of, 300

Main shaft. Rules to finddiameter of, 348

INDEX

Management of cards, 141of drawing frames, 155

Mangle gear, Rule to findcycles of, 365

gears, 365Mayo twill, 313Measure, Angular, 338Apothecaries' fluid, 336Cloth, 337Cubic, 338 .Dry, 336Linear, or long, 336Liquid, 335Square, 337Surveyor's, 337

Measuring motion, 112motion, Gearing of, 114

Measurements of cottonfiber, 93

Measures, Miscellaneous,339

of time, 338Weights and, 334

Mechanical calculations,347

Mechanism, Filling-chang-ing, 273

Memphis cotton, 95Mensuration, 339of lumber, 347

Metallic rolls, 82, 144rolls, Advantages of, 145rolls. Allowances madein calculating produc-tion and draft of, 83

rolls. Increase in draftof, 86

rolls. Weighting ofsingle-boss, 149

Metric system of yarnnumbering, 25

system, Rule to convertstandard counts to, 26

system. Rule to convert,to standard counts, 26

Mixes, Calculation of col-ored, 117

Mixing, Cotton, 103Mixings, Size, 243Money, Table of United

States, 334Mote knives, 122

Motion, Adjusting the pro-tector, 260

Evener, 110Filling, 280Measuring, 112Parallel, 248Timing the picking, 259

Motions, Let-off, 245Selvage, 256Take-up, 245Timing of box, 272

Mule carriage, 205Draw of, 207headstock, 205Rule to find twist on, 208spinning, 205Stretch of, 207

Mules, Horsepower of, 218Production of, 215

NNeedle-ground wire, 127New Hampshire system of

numbering woolenyarns, 25

New Orleans cotton, Gulf,or, 94

Nippers, Setting and tim-ing, 171

Nogg, 128Northrop loom, 273looms. Fixing, 287looms,

_Shuttle for, 278

Numbering ply yarns, 35Numbers, Average, 45

OOctagon, 342Off color of cotton, 100Oklahoma cotton, 95Open-set clothing, 131Opener, 107Organization of cotton mill,

294Organize, 17

Parallel motion, 248Parallelogram, Rule to find

area of, 341Pattern of warp, 47Rule to find ends in, 47

INDEX XV

Patterns, Fancy filling, 65Fancy warp, 61

Peelers cotton, 95Pegging harness chains, 264plan, 305

Pentagon, 342Percentage of comber

waste, 174of size, 54

Perimeter, 342Pick, Bat-wing, 248Cone, 248Shoe, 248Sley and, 57

Picker, Breaker, 108Pickers, Care of, 119Draft of intermediate and

finisher, 116Double section, 109Intermediate and fin-isher, 110

Single section, 109Starting, 260

Picking, 245, 247Early, 259Late, 259motion. Timing the, 259

Picks, 48Cutting, 329

Pique weaves, 328Piques and Bedford cords,

328^

Pitch circle, 363Circular, 363Diametra,], 364line, 363

Plain looms, 245selvage motion, 256-set cJothing, 131weave, 302

Plan, Pegging, 305Planning, Cotton-mill, 294Plow-ground wire, 127Ply-yarn calculations, 35yarns, 35yarns composed of morethan two threads, Z7

yarns, Cost of, 40yarns, Numbering, 35yarns of different counts,Z7

Ply yarns of different ma-terials, 41

yarns of spun silk, 40yarns of the same counts,35

yarns, Rule to find costof, 40

Point draft, 307draft. Irregular, 307drafts. Regular, 307

Pointed twills, 314Points per square foot in

rib-set clothing, 130per square foot in twill-

set clothing, 131Polygon, Rule to find area

of regular, 342Position and care of

shuttle, 288of warp line, 258

Prism, Rule to find sur-face area of, 343

Rule to find volume of,344

Processes and objects ofcotton yarn preparation,102

Production, Card, 136Loom, 254of beam warpers, 233of drawing frames, 154of filling spinning frames,204

of fly frame. Rule to' find, 185of fly frames, 186of loom. Rule to find, 252of looms, Short method

of finding, 253of mule. Rule to find, 212of mules, 215of ribbon-laix machine,

160of single-nip comber, 165of slashers, 240of sliyer-lap machine, 158of spinning frames, Rule

to find, 203of spoolers, 229of twisters, 224of twisters. Rule to find,

223

INDEX

Production of warp spin-ning frames, 203

Table of loom, 254Protector motion, Adjust-

ing the, 260Prunelle twill, 310

twill. Filling-flush, 312twill. Warp-flush, 312

Pyramid or cone, Rule tofind volume, 345

or cone. Rule to findvolume of frustum of,346

Pulleys, Driven and driv-ing, 350

Quadrant gauge, 168Quadrilaterals, 340Quarter-turn belts, 354

RRaw-silk yarns, Rule to

find denier, yards, orweight of, 21

-silk yarns. System ofnumbering, 17

Recipe for top-roll varnish,144

Rectangle, 340Reed, 48, 60

drafts, Irregular, 62Rule to find dents perinch in, 55

Sley of, 51Width at, 54Width in, 60

Reeds, 51Reel. Wrap, 4Regular point drafts, 307

twills, 310twills. Rule for making,310

twist, 28Regulating the shed, 258Repeat of weave, 303Representation of weave,

303Resultant counts of three

or more sinele yarns,Rule to find, 38

Resultant counts whenmore than one end ofthe different counts arefolded, Rule to find, 38

counts when two yarnsof different numbersare folded. Rule to find,39

Revolving-top flat card, 120Rhomboid, 340Rhombus, 340Rib-set clothing, 128

-set clothing, Points persquare foot in, 130

Rib weaves, 320Ribbon-lap machine, 156-lap machine. Production

of, 160Ribs, 51Right-hand twist, 28Rim pulley on mule, Rule

to find diameter of, 210Ring frames, Allowances

on calculated produc-tion of, 202

frames. Calculations for,198

frames. Rule_

to findhanks per spindle on,202

spinning, 190spinning frames, Dimen-sions of, 196

twister, 219Roll, Dead, 137,Setting and timingleather detaching, 170

Setting steel detaching,170

Rolls, Advantages of me-tallic, 145

Back, or feed, 72Calculating draft of com-mon, 78

Common, 142Covering of top, 142Delivery, or front, 7ZDouble-boss, 142Drafting with common, 72Drawing, 142Gearing of, 75Grinding, 137

INDEX

Rolls, Loose-boss, 142Metallic, 82, 144Scouring, 149Setting of drawing, 145Shell, 142Single-boss, 142Solid-boss, 142Varnishing of top, 144Weighting of single-boss,

149Weighting of top, 147

Rope transmission, 358Ropes, Rule to find horse-

power transmitted by,359

Roving, 2Rule to find averagehank of, 185

Rule to find hank of, 91Rule to find twist in,- 180Size of, 12Sizing, 188Sizing yarn and, 2Table of dividends fornumbering cotton yarnand, 16

Rule for finding cam-shaftgears on looms, 256

for making regular twills,310

to convert metric systemcounts to standard sys-tem, 26

to convert silk yarnsnumbered by deniersystem to equivalentcounts in dram system,23

to convert silk yarnsnumbered by dram sys-tem to denier system,23

to convert standard-sys-tem counts to metricsystem, 26

to estimate warp con-traction, 69

to find area of circle, 343to find area of parallelo-gram, 341

to find area of regularpolygon, 342

Rule to find area of trape-zium, 341

to find area of trapezoid,341

to find average counts, 45to find average counts of

cloth, 58, 67to find average counts of

filling, 68to find average hank ofroving, 185

to find average numberof yarn being spun, 205

to find builder gear onmule, 216

to find circumference ofcircle, 343

to find constant forbuilder change gear on.mule, 217

to find constant for twiston fly frames, 181

to find constant for twiston mule, 209

to find constant for twiston ring frames, 200

to find constant of gear-ing, 363

to find constant of take-up motion, 252

to find cost of ply yarns,40

to find counts of fillingto preserve weight ofcloth, 67

to find counts of fillingto preserve yards perpound, 61

to find cpunts of onesystem equivalent tothat of another, 26

to find counts of yarn ona beam, 43

to find counts of yarn tobe folded with anotherto produce a givencount, 39

to find counts whenweight and length aregiven, 1

to find cycles of manglegear, 365

INDEX

Rule to find diameter ofcountershafts, 348

to find diameter of drivenpulley, 350

to find diameter of driv-ing pulley, 350

to find diameter of gearblank, 364

to find diameter of lineshafts, 348

to find diameter of mainshaft, 348

to find diameter of rimpulley on mule, 210

to find denier of raw-silkyarns, 21

to find dents per inch inreed, 55

to find draft, 78, 87, 88,89, 91

to find draft constant, 88to find draft gear, 87, 89,

184to find draft gear onmule, 214

to find dramage of thrownsilk yarns, 22

to find ends in cloth, 53to find ends in pattern,

47to find ends on a beam, 43to find feet of lumber,

347to find hank of roving, 91to find hanks of filling

yarn, 70to find hanks of warpyarn, 70

to find hanks per spindleon ring frames, 202

to find horsepower ofbelt, 357

to find horsepower trans-mitted by ropes, 359

to find lay gear, 185to find length of crossed

belt, 356to find length of filleting,

133to find length of one side

of square equal in areato given circle, 343

Rule to find length of openbelt, 356

to find length of warp, 44to find length of warpthat can be placed on abeam, 44

to find length of yarnwhen weight and countsare known, 2

to find number of drawsin a cop, 217

to find number of ends ofeach color, counts, ormaterial in warp, 61

to find number of heddleson a harness, 50

to find_

number of sec-tions in a cotton mix-ing, 104

_

to find points per squarefoot in card clothing,129

to find production of flyframe, 185

to find production ofloom, 252

to find production ofmule, 212

to find production ofspinning frames, 203

to find production oftwisters, 223

to find required width ofbelt. 357

to find resultant countsof three or more singleyarns, 38

to find resultant countswhen more than oneend of the differentcounts are folded, 38

to find resultant countswhen two yarns of dif-ferent numbers arefolded, 37

to find revolutions ofdriven pulley, 350

to find revolutions ofdriving pulley, 350

to find speed gear onmule, 210

INDEX

iule to find speed ofdriven gear, 361

to find speed of drivenpulley, 351

to find speed of fly-framebobbins, 181

to find speed of traveler,199

to find speed of worm-gear, 364

to find standard breakingweight of carded warpyarns, 34

to find standard breakingweight of combed warpyarns, 35

to find surface area ofcylinder, 344

to find surface area ofprism, 343

to find surface area ofsphere, 346

to find surface velocityof pulley, 351

to find take-up changegear, 251

to find teeth on gear, 364to find tension gear, 184to find throw of harnesscams, 247

to find traverse gear ofspooler, 229

to find traverse ofspoolers, 230

to find twist gear, 184to find twist gear ^nring frames, 200

to find twist in roving,180

to find twist on mule, 208to find twist on ringframes, 20O

to find twist on spinningframe, 199

to find twist to be in-serted in yarns, 28

to find volume of cone orpyramid, 345

to find volume of cylin-der, 345

to find volume of frustumof pyramid or cone, 346

Rule to find volume ofprism, 344

to find volume of sphere,346

to find weight of cloth, 56to find weight of cloth inounces per yard, 56

to find weight of filling,56

to find weight of fillingyarn, 70

to find weight of raw-silk yarns, 21

to find weight of singleyarns in ply yarn, 39

to find weight of sliver,91

to find weight of thrown-silk yarns, 22

to find weight of warpyarn, 70

to find weight of warpyarn per cut, 53

to find weigTit of yarn ona beam, 44

to find weight of yarnwhen length and countsare known, 2

to find weight supportedby lever, 367

to find width of warp inreed, 55

to find yards per poundof cloth, 56, 57

to find yards per poundof raw-silk yarns, 21

to find yards per poundof thrown-silk yarns, 22

Rules for cloth calcula-tions, Short, 67

to find area of triangle,340

Run system of numberingwoolen yarns, 24

Samples, Figuring particu-lars from cloth, 57

Satin and miscellaneousweaves, 317

derivatives, 319drafts, 308

INDEX

Satin weaves. Filling-flush,317

weaves, Warp-flush, 317Satins, Double, 318

Five-, 6-, 7-, 8-, 9-, 10-,11-, and 12-end, 318

Schappe silk yarns, 23Scouring rolls, 149Screen, Licker, 122Sea-island cotton, 94Section draft, 309Self weighting, 147Selvage cams, Setting, 257ends, 52motion, Plain, 256motion, Tape, 257motions, 256

Sericin, 22Setting and timing comber

cylinders, 170and timing feed-roll, 170and timing leather de-taching roll, 170

and timing nippers, 171and timing Whitin high-speed comber, 169

cams on more than 2-harness work, 256

cards, 138Comber feed- roll, 168of combers, 167of drawing rolls, 145of feeler filling-changingmechanism, 289

selvage cams, 257steel detaching roll, 170top combs, 171

Settings, Comber, 167Comber cushion-plate, 168Spooler, 228

Shafts and shafting, 347Shed, 48, 245Regulating the, 258

Shedding by cams, 245Timing the, 258

Shell rolls, 142Shoe pick, 248Short methods of finding

equivalent counts, 27rule to find weight of

single yarns in plyyarn, 40

Short rules for cloth calcu-lations, 67

Shuttle feeler, 277-feeler thread cutter, 284-feeler thread cutter. Ad-justing, 290

for Northrop looms, 278Position and care of, 288

Shuttles flying, 261Side-ground wire, 127Silk, Artificial, 23Cellulose, 23Ply yarns of spun, 40yarns, 17yarns, Denier system ofnumbering, 17

yarns. Dram system ofnumbering, 21

yarns, Schappe, 23yarns. Sizing raw, 17yarns. Spun, 17yarns, System of num-bering raw, 17

yarns. Thrown, 17Single-boss rolls, 142-end stripes, 323-index dobbies, 264-lift dobbies, 264-nip comber, 161-nip comber, Production

of, 165-section pickers, 109-threaded worms, 364yarns, 1

Size, 240Allowance for, 54mixings, 243of roving, 12Percentage of, 54

Sizes of bobbins, 195of spools, 227of travelers, 192

Sizing, 3materials, Weight of, 243raw silk yarns, 17roving, 188test. Compound-, 19yarn and roving, 2

Skein, 3Skip drafts, 308twills, 314

Slasher, 234

INDEX

Slasher cloth, 236^

Slashers, Calculations for,237

Production of, 240Slashing, 234Objects of, 234

Sley, 48and pick, 57of reed, 51

Sliver-lap machine, 156-lap machine, Production

of, 158Rule to find weight of, 91

Slivers, Weights of cotton-card, 137

Slubber, 175Solid-boss rolls, 142Specific gravity of cotton,

93Speed calculations for cot-

ton cards, 133Effect of countershaftson, 351

gear on mule. Rule tofind, 210

of doffer, 135of driven gear, Rule to

find, 361of flats, 135of fly-frame bobbins,Rule to find, 181

of fly frames, 188of licker, 135of pulleys. Circumferen-

tial, 351of traveler. Rule to find,

199of worm-gear. Rule to

find, 364Sphere, Rule to find sur-

face area and volumeof, 346

Spindle, Gravity, 195spring, 262

Spindles, 195Spinnerets, 24Spinning frame, Rule to

find twist on, 199frames. Gauge of, 197frames, Rule to find pro-duction of, 203

Mule, 205

Spinning, Ring, 190Splitting, 119Spooler, Rule to find tra-

verse gear of, 229settings, 228

_

.

Spoolers, Production of,229

Rule to find traverse of,230

Spooling, 226Spools, Sizes of, 227Spot weaves, 324weaves. Extra-filling, 328weaves. Extra-warp, 325

Square, 340equal in area to given

circle, Rule to findlength of one side of,343

measure, 337Spring, Spindle, 262Spun silk. Ply yarns of,

40silk yarns, 17

Standard lengths of yarns,.24

sizes of fly frames, 189twills, 312types of drawing-indrafts, 306

Staple, 100Length of, 100Strength of, 100

Starting pickers, 360Steel detaching roll. Set-

ting, 170-harness warp stop-mo-

tion. Care of, 291gauge, 168

Stop-motioii, Timing thefilling, 260

-motions. Automatic, 245-motions, Warp, 286

Straddle bug. Dual func-tion of, 285

Straight draft, 306Strength of cotton fiber,

93of staple, 100

Stretch of mule, 207Stripe weaves, 322Stripes, Herring-bone, 314

INDEX

Stripes, Single-end, 323Stripping, 137Strippings, Flat, 124Structure of cotton fiber, 92Surveyor's measure, 337

TTable, Cotton-roving num-

bering, 13Cotton-yarn numbering, 5Denier system conver-sion, 19

of allowances on calcu-lated production ofring frames, 202

of angular measure, 338of apothecaries' fluidmeasure, 336

of apothecaries' weight,335

of avoirdupois weight, 334of cloth measure, 337of comber settiiigs, 167of comber timings, 169of constants for findingloom production, 253

of cotton characteristics,96

of cubic measure, 338of dimensions of ringspinning frames, 196

of dimensions of twist-ers, 226

of distance between bear-ings, 349

of dividends for number-ing cotton yarn androving, 16

of dry measure, 336of fluid measure, 336of length for cottonyarns, 2

of linear measure, 336of liquid measure, 335of long measure, 336of loom production, 254of machines and floor

space for cotton millmachinery, 300

of measures of time, 338of miscellaneous mea-

sures, 339

Table of production ofbeam warpers, 223

of production of drawingframes, 154

of production of fillingspinning frames, 204

of production of flyframes, 186

of production of mules,215

of production of ribbon-lap machine, 160

of production of single-nip comber, 165

of production of sliver-lap machine, 158

of production of spoolers,229

of production of twisters,224

of production of warpspinning frames, 203

of sizes of bobbins, 195of sizes of spools, 227of sizes of travelers, 192of square measure, 337of standard sizes of flyframes, 189

of surveyor's measure,337

of travelers for fillingyarn, 194

of travelers for warpyarn, 193

of troy weight, 335of twist constants for flyframes, 188

of United States money,334

of weight for cottonyarns, 2

of weights of cotton cardslivers, 137

of weight of sizing ma-terials, 243

Twist, 29Tail-ends, 132Take-up change gear. Rule

to find, 251-up motion, Rule to findconstant of, 252

-up motions, 245-

INDEX

Tape selvage motion, 257Taper gear, 183 'Inside, 132

Teeth on gear, Rule tofind number of, 364

Temples, 245Tension gear, 183gear, Rule to find, 184

Tester; Yarn, 33Texas cotton, 95Textile design, Elements

of 302Thin places in cloth, 261Thread cutter, Adjusting

shuttle-feeler, 290cutter. Shuttle-feeler, 284

Three-harness twill, 310Thrown-silk yarns, 17

-silk yarns, Rule to finddramage of, 22

-silk yarns, Rule to findweight of, 22

Time, Measures of, 338Timing a dobby, 265comber cams, 170dobby cylinder, 267of box motions, 272of combers, 168the filling stop-motion,260

the picking motion, 259the shedding, 258

Timings, Comber, 169Tinges, 100Top combs. Setting, 171-ground wire, 127-roll varnish. Recipe for,

144rolls, Covering of, 142rolls, Weighting of, 147

Tops 128Tram, 17Transmission, Rope, 358Trapezium, Rule to find

area of. 341Trapezoid, Rule to find

area of, 341Traveler, Rule to find

speed of, 199Travelers, 193for filling yarn, 194for warp yarn, 193

Travelers, Sizes of, 192Traverse gear, 183gear of spooler, Rule to

find,, 229grinder, 138of spoolers, Rule to find,

230Triangle, Rules to find

area of, 340Troy weight, 335Twill angle, Method of

finding, 311Campbell, 313Cassimere, 312Fancy entwining, 314Mayo, 313Prunelle, 310-set clothing. Points persquare foot in, 131

Three-harness, 310Venetian, 313

Twilled basket weaves, 320clothing, 128weaves, 309

Twills, Angle of, 310Corkscrew, 321Curved, 314Entwining, 313Fancy, 313Pointed, 314Regular, 310Skip, 314Standard, 312

Twist, 188constants, 28constants for fly frames,

188gear, 183gear on ring frames.Rule to find, 200

gear. Rule to find, 184in roving. Rule to find,_

180in yarns, 28Left-hand, 28on mule, Rule to find, 208on mule. Rule to findconstant for, 209

on ring frames, Rule tofind. 200

on ring frames. Rule tofind constant for, 200

INDEX

Twist on spinning frame,Rule to find, 199

Regular, 28Right-hand, 28table, 29to be inserted in yarns,Rule to find, 28

Twister, Ring, 219Twisters, Calculations for,

219Dimensions of, 226Dry, 219Production of, 224Rule to find production

of, 223Wet, 219

Twisting, 219Types of drawing-in drafts,

Standard, 306U

United States money.Table of, 334

Uplands cotton, 95V

Varnishing of top rolls. 144Velocity of pulley. Rule

to find surface, 351Venetian twill, 313Viscose, 24

WWadding filling, 328Warp, 46contraction, 53contraction. Rule to es-timate, 69

corkscrew weaves, 321Ends in, 60-flush Albert twill, 312-flush broken crowweave, 313

-flush crow twill, 312-flush prunelle twill, 312-flush satin weaves, 317-flush weaves, 310in reed. Rule to findwidth of, 55

line, Position of, 258Pattern of, 47patterns. Fancy, 61preparation, 226

Warp-rib weave, 320Rule to find length of, 44spinning frames, Produc-tion of, 203

-spot weaves, 324stop-motion, Care of cot-ton-harness, 290

stop-motion, Care ofsteel-harness, 291

stop-motions, 286stop-motions, Generalcare of, 292

that can be placed on abeam, Rule to findlength of, 44

yarn, 46yarn, Breaking weight

of cotton, diZyarn, Calculations for, 52yarn, Counts of, 58yarn per cut. Rule tofind weight of, 53

yarn, Rule to find hanksof, 70

yarn. Rule to find weightof, 70

yarn. Travelers for, 193yarn. Weight of, 60yarns. Average breakingweight of American cot-

ton, 34Warper, 230Warping, Beam, 230Warps, Fancy, 46Waste, Card, 136Comber, 173

Weave, Ground, 325Plain, 302Repeat of, 303Representation of, 303

Weaves, Basket, 319Bedford cord, 332Check, mCombination, 322Corkscrew, 321Diamond, 316Equally-flush, 310Filling-corkscrew, 321Filling-flush, 310Filling-rib, Z2lFilling-spot, 324Honeycomb, 322

INDEX

Weaves, Pique, 328Rib, 320Satin and miscellaneous,

317Spot, 324Stripe, 322Twilled, 309Warp-corkscrew, 321Warp-flush, 310Warp-rib, 320Warp-spot, 324

Weaving, Cotton, 245Weight and horsepower of

cards, 136Apothecaries', 335Avoirdupois, 334of cloth, 56of cloth, Rule to find, 56of cloth, Rule to findcounts of filling to pre-serve, 67

of cotton cloth, 48of cotton duck, 49of cut, 60of filling, Rule to find, 56of filling yarn, Rule to

find, 70of laps, 119of single yarns in plyyarn, Rule to find, 39,40_

of sizing materials, 243of sliver. Rule to find, 91of warp yarn, 60of warp yarn per cut.Rule to find, 53

of warp yarn, Rule tofind, 70

of woolen cloth, 49of worsted cloth, 49of yarn on a beam. Rule

to find, 44of yarn. Rule to find,when length and countsare known, 2

supported by lever. Ruleto find, 367

Troy, 335Weighting of single-boss

common rolls, 149of single-boss metallic

rolls, 149

Weighting of top rolls, 147Weights and measures, 334

of cotton card slivers, 137Wet twisters, 219Whitin high-speed comber.

Setting and timing, 169Width at reed, 54

in reed, 60of belt. Rule to find re-quired, 357

of cloth, 57of warp in reed, Rule to

find, 55Winding faller, 208Wire, Diameters of Eng-

lish and Americanstandard, 127

Needle-ground, 127Plow-ground, 127Side-ground, 127Top-ground, 127

Woolen cloth. Weight of,49

yarns, Amsterdam sys-tem of numbering, 25

yarns, Cohoes system ofnumbering, -25

yarns, Cut system ofnumbering, 24

yarns. Little Falls sys-tem of numbering, 25

yarns, New Hampshiresystem of numbering,25

yarns, Run system ofnumbering, 24

World's production of cot-ton, 101

Worm-gear, Rule to findspeed of, 364

Worms and worm-gears,364

Worsted cloth. Weight of,49

Wrap reel, 4

Yards per pound of cloth,Rule to find, 56, 57

per pound of raw-silkyarns. Rule to find, 21

INDEX

Yards per pound of thrown-silk yarns. Rule to find,22

per pound, Rule to findcounts of filling to pre-serve, 61

Yarn, 2and roving, Sizing, 2and roving. Table ofdividends for number-ing cotton, 16

being spun. Rule to findaverage number of, 205

Breaking weight of cot-ton warp, 33

calculations, 1Calculations for filling, 54Calculations for warp, 52Counts' of warp, 58Filling, 46Methods of finding counts

of cotton, 16numbering, Metric sys-tem of, 25

-numbering systems, 24on a beam, Rule to findcounts of, 43

on a beam, Rule to findweight of, 44

tester, 33Warp. 46Weight of warp, 60

Yarns, Amsterdam systemof numbering woolen, 25

Average breaking weightof American cottonwarp, 34

Beamed, 42Cabled, 219Cohoes system of num-bering woolen, 25

composed of more thantwo threads. Ply, 37

Cost of ply, 40Cut system of number-ing woolen, 24

Denier system of num-bering silk, 17

Dram system of number-ing silk, 21

Little Falls system ofnumbering woolen, 25

Yarns, New Hampshire sys-tem of numberingwoolen, 25

Numbering ply, 35of different counts.Folded, 37

of different counts, Ply,37

of different materials.Ply, 41

of the same counts.Folded, 35

of the same counts. Ply,35

Ply, 35Rule to find denier ofraw-silk, 21

Rule to find, dramage ofthrown-silk, 22

Rule to find standardbreaking weight ofcarded warp, 34

Rule to find standardbreaking weight ofcombed warp, 35

Rule to find weight ofraw-silk, 21

Rule to find weight ofthrown-silk, 22

Rule to find yards perpound of raw-silk, 21

Rule to find yards perpound of thrown-silk, 22

Run system of number-ing woolen, 24

Schappe silk, 23Silk, 17Single, 1Sizing raw-silk, 17Spun-silk, 17Standard lengths of, 24System of numberinghemp, 25

System of numberingjute, 25

System of numberinglinen, 24

System of numberingraw-silk. 17

Thrown-silk, l7Twist in, 28

TheCotton Textile Worker's

Handbook

YARN CALCULATIONS

SINGLE YARNSThe word counts, when used in connection with yam, refers

to the number, or size, of a yam as determined by the relationthat exists between the length and the weight of a given quan-tity of that yarn. Thus, in the almost universally-adoptedsystem of numbering cotton yam, the counts of any given yamare determined by the number of times that a standard lengthof 840 yd., known as a hank, is contained in the number of yardsof that yarn required to weigh 1 lb. The length of the hank,840 yd., is always constant; for instance, a cotton yarn may beof fine, medium, or coarse counts, but a hank of that yarnalways contains 840 yd.The method of numbering is that of calling a yam that con-

tains 1 hank, or 840 yd., in 1 lb. a No. 1 yarn. If the yarncontains 2 hanks, or 1,680 yd., in 1 lb., it is known as a No. 2yarn; if it contains 3 hanks, or 2,520 yd., in 1 lb., it is known asa, No. 3 yarn. Thus the number of hanks that it takes to weigh1 lb. determines the counts of the yam.The counts of a yam are generally indicated by placing a

letter 5 after the figure representing the number of the yam.Thus, 26s shows the counts of a yam and indicates that theyam contains 26 hanks (26X840 yd.) in 1 lb.

Rule.To find the counts of a yarn when the length and weightare given, divide the total length of yarn, expressed in yards,by the. weight, expressed in pounds, times the standard length.

2 YARN CALCULATIONS

Example.If 168,000 yd. of yam weighs 5 lb., what arethe counts?

Solution.

168,000 (length of yarn, in yards)= 40s, counts

5 (weight, in pounds) X 840 (standard)Rule.

To find the weight of yarn when the length and countsare known, divide the length, in yards, by the counts times thestandard length.Example.^What is the weight of 42,000 yd. of liumber 5s

yam?42,000 (length, in yards)

Solution. = 10 lb.(5 counts) X 840(standard)

Rule. To find the length of yarn when the weight and countsare known, multiply the weight, in pounds, counts, and standardlength together.

Example.What is the length of yam contained in a bundlethat weighs 8 lb., the counts of the yam being 26s?

Solution. 8 (weight, in lb.) X 26 (counts) X 840 (standard)= 174,720 yd.In yarn calculations it is frequently of advantage to sub-

divide the standard length of the hank, 840 yd., and the stand-ard weight of 1 lb. Hence, two tables are used, as follows:

Table of Length1 yards (yd.) = 1 thread, or circtimference of wrap reel

120 yards = 80 threads = 1 skein, or lea840 yards = 560 threads = 7 skeins, or leas= 1 hank

Table of Weight27.34 grains (gr.) = 1 dram (dr.)

437.5 grains = 16 drams = 1 ounce (oz.)7,000 grains = 256 drams = 16 ounces = 1 pound (lb.)

SIZING YARN AND ROVINGA. yarn is a thread composed of fibers uniformly disposed

throughout its structure and having a certain amount of twistfor the purpose of enhancing its strength. Roving, however,although its size is determined in a similar manner to that ofyam, is a term used to designate a loosely-twisted strand of

YARN CALCULATIONS 3

fibers, the latter lying more or less parallel with each other,in which form the cotton is placed at various processes previousto the actual spinning of the yam. In order that the yam androving may be kept of the correct size, it is generally the customto weigh a certain length of the product of each machine, atleast once a day, and by this means ascertain whether theroving or yam is being kept at the required weight. Thisprocess is known as sizing, and is a matter that should alwaysbe carefully attended to.From the rules and explanations previously given it will be

plain that if 840 yd. (1 hank) were always the length weighed,in order to learn the counts of the yam, it would simply be

Fig. 1

necessary to divide the weight, expressed in pounds, into 1 lb.,or if expressed in grains, into 7,000 (the number of grains in1 lb.). It will readily be seen that to measure ofi 840 yd. ofyam would not only require considerable time, but would alsoproduce an unnecessary waste of material. To overcomethese difficulties, when sizing yam, it is customary to measureoff one skein (120 yd.) or one-seventh of 840 yd.; to weigh thisamount; and divide its weight in grains into one-seventh of7,000, or 1,000. The result obtained in this manner will be thesame as if 840 yd. were taken and the weight, in grains, dividedInto 7,000.

4J YARN CALCULATIONS

When sizing yarns, a wrap reel is used to measure the yarn.As its name indicates, this instrument consists of a reel, gen-erally 1| yd. in circumference. The yam is wound on this reeland a finger indicates on a disk the number of yards reeled.Fig. 1 shows an ordinary type of wrap reel, and Fig. 2 showsyam and roving scales. These scales are suitable for weighingby tenths of grains.Example. 120 yd. of yam is reeled and found to weigh

40 gr.; vihat are the counts?Solution. 1,000^40= 25s

Fig. 2

The size of cotton roving is determined in a similar mannerand indicated on the same basis as is the size of cotton yarn,although, when sizing roving, a shorter length is used. It iscustomary in this case to measure off one-seventieth of 840 yd.,or 12 yd., and divide the weight, in grains, of this length ofroving into one-seventieth of 7,000, or 100.

Ex.'^MPLE.- 12 yd. of roving is found to weigh 20 gr.; whatare the counts?

Solution. 100 -=- 20 = 5-hank rovingTo avoid calculation when sizing yarns, a table showing the

weight by grains and tenths of grains of 120 yd., or 1 skein, ofyam is ordinarily employed. The accompanying cotton-yamnumbering table is a well-arranged and complete table for thispurpose.

YARN CALCULATIONS

COTTON-YARN NUMBERING TABLE

Wt.inGr.

YARN CALCULATIONS

Table(Continued)

Wt.inGr.

YARN CALCULATIONS

Table(Continued)

Wt.in Gr.

YARN CALCULATIONS

Table(Continued)

Wt.inGr.

10 YARN CALCULATIONS

Table(Continued)

Wt.inGr.

YARN CALCULATIONS

Table(Continued)

n

Wt.inGr.

12 YARN CALCULATIONSTabi-e(Continued)

Wt.inGr.

YARN CALCULATIONS

COTTON-ROVING NUMBERING TABLE

13

Wt.inGr.


Table(Continued)

Wt.inGr.

YARN CALCULATIONS

Table(Continued)

15

Wt.inGr.


If other than 120 yd. is weighed in the case of yam or 12 yd.in the case of roving, the preceding tables are not appUcable.The following table of dividends for numbering cottonyam and roving, however, shows various numbers that areused as dividends when various lengths of yam or roving, areweighed. For instance, the weight in grains of 30 yd. of yarnor roving divided into 250 gives as a quotient the counts of theyarn or hank of the roving.

TABLE OF DIVIDENDS FOR NUMBERING COTTONYARN AND ROVING

YARN CALCULATIONS 17

SILK YARNSThe use, in cotton mills, of silk yarns in connection

with cotton yarns in the production of high-grade andfancy fabrics is constantly increasing. These yarns fre-quently are used for filling in fabrics woven with combedand mercerized cotton warps, such as fine shirtings. Inaddition, silk yarns are used in many cotton fabrics asornamental, or figuring, threads in both warp and filling.

Several methods of designating the size, or counts, ofsilk yarns are employed in the United States. Raw silk,as imported into this country, is numbered in accordancewith the so-called "denier" system. Thrown silks, that is,silk yarns prepared by the reeling, doubling, twisting,etc. of raw silk, are prepared in various ways for manydifferent purposes. Those intended for warp yarn areknown as organzine; those to be used as filling yarn arecalled tram. Thrown silks usually are designated accord-ing to size by a method known as the "dram" system,but sometimes the denier system is employed. Spun silkyarns, produced by carding and spinning processes fromwaste silk, and pierced, tangled, broken, and inferiorcocoons of the silk worm, are numbered in a mannerexactly similar to that employed in the case of cottonyarns. That is, the size of these yarns is indicated bythe number of hanks, each 840 yds. in length, that arerequired to weigh 1 lb.The Denier System.The denier system of designating

the size, or counts, of raw silks is based upon a skein ofyarn having a fixed length of 450 meters, and upon astandard weight of 5 centigrams. The skein of yarn forweighing usually is wound upon a reel having a cir-cumferential dimension of 112J centimeters, thus requir-ing 400 revolutions of the reel to produce a skein of yarncontaining the required length of 450 meters. If thisskein of yarn weighed 5 centigrams (.05 gram) it wouldbe a 1-denier silk; if the skein weighed 10 centigrams,the yarn would be a 2-denier silk, etc. Practically, ofcourse, a silk yarn as fine as 1 denier in size is impos-

18 YARN CALCULATIONSsible, since the individual filaments of silk as unwoundfrom the cocoon of the silkworm vary in size from2 deniers to 4 deniers, or even coarser. The filamentfrom the cocoon is said to have an average size of about2| deniers, so that if six of these filaments are reeledtogether to produce a commercial raw silk yarn, the sizeof that yarn will be about 131 deniers. The counting ofthe cocoon filaments in raw silks to determine thedenier, however, may be considered only as corroboratingmore accurate tests. It should never be accepted as acertain indication of the denier, since the cocoon filamentnot only varies in size in different varieties of silk butalso at different seasons of the year, and under otherconditions. An 8/10-denier silk, made from, perhaps, threecocoons, is about the finest silk used in actual practice.Raw silk is irregular, or uneven, in size to a consid-

erable extent on account of the natural variation in thesize of the silk filaments produced by the silkworm.While careful reeling reduces this variation to a con-siderable degree, raw silk yarns do not possess thedegree of uniformity in size and number of yards to thepound that is characteristic of drawn and spun yarns,such as cotton yarns. Therefore, the denier of a rawsilk yarn is always expressed by covering three deniers,as, for instance, a 13/15-denier silk yarn, a 14/16-deniersilk, a 15/17-denier yarn, etc. These expressions mean,in the first instance, that the silk varies in size from13i to Hi deniers; in the second case, the possible varia-tion is from 14| to 151 deniers; and, in the last example,the size varies from 15i to 161 deniers. In making cal-culations the average denier of raw silk yarns should beconsidered. Thus, a 13/15-denier silk should be figuredas a 14-denier yarn, that is, as a silk 450 meters ofwhich will weigh 70 centigrams (14X5=70).Because of the variation in the size of raw silks a

single test to determine the denier of the yarn is unre-liable and extremely unlikely to indicate the averagedenier of the silk in any one bale. It is customary,therefore, in determining the size of raw silks, to draw


10 skeins from each bale, taking the skeins from differ-ent parts of the bale. From each of these skeins, threereelings are made and, to their absolutely dry weight,11 per cent, is added for normal moisture regain. Theaverage denier of these reelings is the denier of thatbale of silk and the variation in the weight of thereelings indicates the variation in the size of the silkin that particular bale, or the uniformity in size, orotherwise, of the silk.

In addition to the foregoing test, a sizing test in,which long reelings are made serves to indicate moreaccurately the yardage per given weight of raw silks,although it does not so clearly show the variation inthe size of the silk in a single bale. This is known asthe compound-sizing test and consists of making 20 reel-ings of 4,500 meters each from skeins drawn from differentparts of each bale. Since the varying inequalities insize are overrun by long reelings, this test is very reli-able in giving the correct average size and averagenumber of yards per pound of the silk in a bale.In making calculations relative to raw silks in

accordance with the denier system, the following metricconversion table will be found useful:

DENIER SYSTEM CONVERSION TABLE

Standard lengthof reeling =450 meters=492.13 yards

Standard weight,or "denier" =5 centigrams=.771618 grain

One meter =39.3704 inches=1.093623 yardsOne gram =20 "denier" weights (.05 gram each)One gram '=15.43236 grainsOne ounce =567 (practically) "denier" weightsOne ounce =437.5 grainsOne pound =9,072 (practically) "denier" weightsOne pound =7,000 grainsOne pound =453.592 grams

20 YARN CALCULATIONSSince the standard length for reeling is equal to 492.13

yd. and the standard weight, or "denier," is equal to,771618 gr., the length per pound (7,000 gr.) of a theo-

AVERAGE YARDS PER POUND, DENIER SYSTEM

YARN CALCULATIONS 21tion with the denier system, and are especially adapted tocotton-mill practice.

Rule.To find the denier of raw silk yarns, divide4,464,528 by the yards per pound of the silk.

Example.If 600 yd. of raw silk weighs 21 grains,what is the size of the silk?

Solution.600(yd.)X7 00gr.perlb.)

^^^

21 (gr.)4,464,528-^200,000 (yd. per lb.)=22.32-denier silk

Rule.To find the yards per pound of raw silk yarns,divide 4,464,528 by the average denier of the silk.Example.How many yards are contained in one

pound of 14/16 denier raw silk?Solution.The average size of the silk in this case

can be assumed to be 15-denier. Then,4,464,528^15=297,635.2 yd. per lb.

Rule.To find the weight in pounds of raw silk, divide4)464,528 by the denier of the silk and divide the quotientthus^ obtained into the total number of yards.Example.What is the weight in pounds of 557,066

yards of 20-denier silk?Solution. 4,464,528^20=223,226.4 yd. per lb.

892,912-^557,066=21 lb.The Dram System.The dram system of designating

the size of thrown silk yarns is based upon a standardlength, or reeling, of 1,000 yards and the size of thesilk is determined by the weight in drams of this lengthof yarn. For instance, if 1,000 yards of thrown silkweigh 4 drams, the yarn is a 4-dram silk, etc. Al,C00-yd. reeling is always made except in cases wherethe silk is very coarse and a reeling of this lengthwould result in a bulky skein and cause excessivewaste in sizing the yarn. Under these circumstances,500 yards or 250 yards are reeled and the weight indrams of these lengths multiplied by two or four, as thecase may be, in order to obtain the true size of the silk.Since one pound contains 256 drams, one pound of

one-dram silk will contain 256 times 1,000 yards, or

22 YARN CALCULATIONS256,000 yards. Therefore, the following rules, especiallyarranged for use in cotton mills, are applicable tothrown silks numbered by the dram system.Rule.To find the drainage of thrown silk yarns, divide

2^6,000 by the yards per pound of the silk.Example.If 32,000 yards of thrown silk are required

to weigh one pound, what is the dramage of the yarn?Solution. 256,000^32,000=8-dram silkRule.To find the yards per pound of thrown silk

yarns, divide 256,000 by the dramage of the silk.Example.How many yards of yarn are there in one

pound of 2j-dram silk?Solution. 256,000-^21=102,400 yd.Rule.To find the weight in pounds of thrown silk,

divide 256,000 by the dramage of the silk and divide thequotient thus obtained into the total number of yards.Example.What is the weight in pounds of 819,200

yards of 5-dram silk?Solution. 256,000^5= 51,200 yd. per lb.

819,200^-51,200=16 lb.It will be noted that both the denier system and the

dram system of numbering silk yarns diifer materially inprinciple from the systems employed in numbering cotton,woolen, worsted, spun silk, etc., since in the formercases the higher the number of the yarn the coarser it is,and, in the latter systems, the higher the counts the finerthe yarn and the greater the number of yards per poundthat it contains.

In both the denier and the dram systems the weightof the silk is taken "in the gum," that is, the natural gum,or sericin, of the silk fiber is not removed by any"boiling-off" process, nor is any compensation made forthe removal of the gum in calculations for finding the sizeof the yarns. For this reason, silk yarns that have beenboiled off and, also, dyed will be finer and contain agreater number of yards per pound than the indicatedsize of the yarn warrants. The exact amount of thischange in the true counts and yards per pound ofboiled-off silks depends upon the variety of the silk and

YARN CALCULATIONS 23the extent to which the boiling-oflf process is carried aswell as its nature, but will average fully 25 per cent, inthe case of dyed thrown silk.The size of silks is sometimes designated in accordance

with the number of yards per ounce. Thus, a 20,000-yd,silk is one 20,000 yards of which weigh one ounce.Schappe, or spun waste, silk yarns imported fromContinental European countries, are usually numberedwith a standard hank, or skein, length of 500 meters anda standard weight of h kilogram. This is practicallyequal to 496 yd. per pound.Denier and Dram Equivalent Counts.Since a one-

denier silk contains 4,464,528 yd. per lb. and a one-dramsilk has 256,000 yd. per lb., the constant for convertingthe counts of one system into the equivalent counts of theother system is equal to 4,464,528-^256,000, or 17.44, andthe following rules apply:Rule.To convert a silk yarn, numbered by the denier

system, to equivalent counts in the dram system, dividethe deniers by I7-44-Example.What is the equivalent in the dram system

of a 24/26-denier silk?Solution.Considering the average size of the silk to

be 25 deniers,25^17.44=1.433-dram silk

Rule.To convert a silk yarn, numbered by the dramsystem, to equivalent counts in the denier system, mul-tiply the dramage by 17.44.Example.What is the equivalent in the denier system

of a 2-dram silk?Solution. 2Xl7.44=34.88-denier silkArtificial Silk.^Artiiicial silk is produced by a com-

bination of various chemical and mechanical processes.These operations, and the basic materials employed inthem, vary according to the desired nature of the finishedproduct, there being several varieties of artificial silk.

Cellulose artificial silk, which is produced in largequantities, involves, in its manufacture, the chemicaltreatment of some form of cellulose, such as cotton or

24 YARN CALCULATIONSwood. The latter is generally employed, and is utilizedin the form of sulphite wood pulp which is chemically andmechanically treated so as to form a viscous solution,that is technically called viscose. This viscose is forcedunder pressure through very fine orifices, called "spin-nerets," into a solution that coagulates it into a con-

tinuous strand of a gelatinous nature. Further treatmentof a cleansing and finishing nature produces the artificialsilk of commerce.

Artificial silk is numbered by the denier system as inthe case of raw silk, and is seven or eight times coarserin size than natural silk. These yarns are produced insizes from about 60 deniers to 600 deniers. The finersizes are not often obtainable, being imported fromEurope. The coarser sizes are in more frequent use, the300-denier and 500-denier silks being quite often employedand regularly produced.

OTHER YARN-NUMBERING SYSTEMSYarns made of materials other than cotton are num-

bered in a similar manner to cotton yarns, with the oneexception that the standard length is different. Theaccompanying table gives the standard lengths used forvarious yarns and as in each case higher numbers indicatefiner yarns, as in the cotton system, the same rules usedin cotton-yarn numbering may be applied, the standardlength only being altered as given in the table.

STANDARD LENGTHS OF YARNS

Yarns

CottonSpun silkWorstedWoolen (run system).Woolen (cut system).Linen

Standard LengthYards

840840560

1,600300300


The run system is the standard American method ofnumbering woolen yarns; the cut system is used prin-cipally in Philadelphia and vicinity. Woolen yarn is alsonumbered in some districts by stating the weight in grainsof a fixed length. In the "New Hampshire" system thislength is 50 yd.; in the "Little Falls" system, 25 yd.; inthe "Amsterdam" system, 122 yd., and in the "Cohoes"system, 6i yd. A length of 20 yd. also is occasionallyused in connection with the system of expressing theweight in grains.

The size of coarse Jute, flax, or hemp yarns is deter-mined by the weight in pounds of a standard length of14,400 yd., known as a spindle. Thus, if 14,400 yd.weighs 4 lb., the yarn would be known as a 4-lb. yarn; ifit weighs 5 lb. it is a 5-lb. yarn, etc. In this system andin the woolen grain systems, it will be noted that highernumbers indicate coarser yarns.

METRIC SYSTEM OF YARN NUMBERING

From time to time there has been considerable agita-tion relative to the adoption of one system and theunification of the methods of indicating the degree offineness of yarns produced from the various fibers usedin the textile industry of the whole world. The chiefobjection is that, from long usage, the methods atpresent adopted are too well developed for a single cor-poration or a single country to take on itself such areform, without being assured that its neighbors andcompetitors will simultaneously and unanimously do thesame thing.

The method usually advocated is that of numbering allclasses of yarns by what is known as the metric system,in which 1 meter of No. 1 yarn weighs 1 gram, the meterbeing the unit of length in the metric system and thegram the unit of weight. The equivalents of the meterand the gram are as follows:

1 yard = .914 meter, 1 pound = 453.59 grams

26 YARN CALCULATIONSTo find the number of yarn in any present standard

system that corresponds to the number of yarn in themetric standard system:

Rule.Multiply the counts, given in the metric system, by453-59 (gt'ams in i lb.) mid divide by the standard numberof yards to the pound in the present system multiplied by.914 (meter in i yard).Example.A cotton yarn numbered according to the

metric system is marked 40s. Find the counts in thepresent system.

c,40X453.59

-, ^,, .Solution.840X 914 ^^^^^^^- '^"^

To find the number of yarn in the metric standardsystem that corresponds to the number of yarn in anypresent standard system:

Rule.Multiply the counts, given in the present system,by the present standard number of yards to the poundand by .914 (,m,eters in J yd.) and divide by 453.59 {gramsin I pound).

Example.A worsted yarn numbered according to thepresent system is marked 46s. Find the counts in themetric system.

46X560X.914., ^

.

Solution. t^ttt, = ol.907s. Ans.453.59

EQUIVALENT COUNTSOften it becomes necessary to place the counts of one

yarn in the system of another. That is, it may be neces-sary to learn what the counts of a certain cotton yarnwould be if it were numbered similarly to a worstedthread. When two, three, or more threads made fromdifferent raw stock and numbered according to differentmethods are placed in the same system, they are said tobe reduced to equivalent counts.

Rule.To find the counts of one system that is equiva-lent to that of another, multiply the given counts by thenumber of yards in the standard length of the specified


system and divide by the number of yards in the standardlength of the system required.Example 1.Find the equivalent of a 40s cotton in

worsted counts.Solution. 840X40=33,600

33,600^560=60s, worstedExplanation.Since there are 840 yd. of yarn in 1 lb.

of Is cotton, there will be 40X840, or 33,600, yd. in 1 lb.of 40s. The question then is to find the worsted countsof a yarn containing 33,600 yd. to the pound. Sincelength divided by (standard multiplied by weight) equalscounts, then 33,600-^(560X1) must equal the counts.Example 2.Find the equivalent of a 16s cotton yarn

in the woolen run system.Solution. 840X16= 13,440

13,440^1,600=8.4-run, woolen

SHORT METHODS OF FINDING EQUIVALENTCOUNTS

The accompanying table of multipliers, divisors, anddividends may be used for finding quickly the equivalentcotton counts of any yarn the counts of which are ex-

CONSTANTS FOR EQUIVALENT COTTON COUNTS

Yarn-Numbering System

28 YARN CALCULATIONSpressed in some other system. For instance, multiplyingthe counts of a worsted yarn by .667 (), or dividing thecounts by 1.5 i.f), gives the equivalent cotton counts ofthe yarn. In a similar way, the counts of a silk yarn,numbered by the denier system, if divided into 5,315gives as a quotient the equivalent cotton counts.

TWIST IN YARNSTo impart to yarn the required strength it is necessary

to insert a certain amount of twist. Warp yarn requiresmore twist than filling yarn, because it must withstanda greater strain during the weaving process. The turnsof twist per inch vary with different mills and in variouskinds of yarn, but all systems are based on the follow-ing rule:

Rtile.

To find the twist to be inserted in any counts ofyarns multiply the square root of the counts by thestandard, or constant, adopted.

In American mills, the twist constant adopted for ring-spun warp yarn is usually 4.75, and for filling yarn 3.75.Other constants frequently employed are shown in theaccompanying twist table, which also shows the turns oftwist per inch to be inserted in various counts of yarn.

Occasionally a twist constant of 4.50 is used for ring-spun warp yarn and sometimes extra-twist mule-spunwarp yarn is produced with a constant of 4.00. For theproduction of yarns for special purposes, twist constantsare varied as the case may demand.Twist may be imparted to a yarn in either a right-hand

or a left-hand direction. There is some confusion as towhat constitutes a right-hand or a left-hand twist, butthe general custom is to follow the universal machine-shop practice in this matter, that is, a right-hand twistin a yarn lies in the same direction as a right-handthread on a bolt or screw, etc. Right-hand twist is oftenspoken of as "regular" twist.

30 YARN CALCULATIONSTable(Continued)

YARN CALCULATIONSTable(Continued)

31

.32 YARN CALCULATIONSTable(Continued)


BREAKING WEIGHT OF COTTON WARPYARN

The strength of warp yarn is of great importance and theseyams should be frequently tested to determine whether theproper standard of strength for the various counts is beingmaintained. An instrument for determining the strength of ayarn is shown in the accompanying illustration. In testing

the strength of the yam, it is thecustom to wrap, or reel, one skeinof 120 yd. of yarn, the reel being

1| yd. in circumference, and placethis skein on the hooks o, & of thetester. By turning the handleuntil the yam breaks, the niunberof pounds required to break theskein is registered on the dial.To obtain fairly accurate results,skeins from ionr or five bobbinsshould be reeled and broken andthe results averaged. Care shouldbe taken to operate the tester atas nearly a uniform speed aspossible or the results will beerroneous; a power-driven testergives more reliable results thanone operated by hand. The skeinsof yarn should be carefully straight-ened out when placed on the testerand no twisted or tangled skeinsshould be broken. The resultsobtained by this machine are

averages only and do not show whether a yarn is evenly spun andhas a uniform strength throughout; only a single-thread test cando that. Single-thread tests, however, are difficult to make andof little value unless an exhaustive number of tests are made."When finding a standard breaking weight for carded warp

yams, the following rule may be employed.


Rule.Divide the courds of the yarn into 1,800, and to thequotient thus obtained add 3 lb. The result is a fair averagebreaking weight in pounds of a standard skein of yarn.

AVERAGE BREAKING WEIGHT OF AMERICAN COTTONWARP YARNS

Counts of Yarn


Rule.Divide the counts of the yarn into 2,500, and from thequotient thus obtained subtract 3 lb.The accompanying table, worked out by the preceding rules,

gives fair average breaking weights in pounds for standardskeins of 120 yd., wrapped on a reel IJ yd. in circumference.

PLY YARNSMethod of Numbering.Often two or more threads are

twisted together to form one coarser thread. Such yams arecommonly known as ply yarns, also sometimes called folded,or twisted, yarns. The method of numbering cotton ply yarnsis that of giving the counts of the single yarns that are foldedand placing before these counts the number that indicates thenumber of threads folded; thus, 2/40s indicates that twothreads of 40s single yarn are folded together, the folded yarnbeing equal, in weight, to a single 20s yam. During the pro-cess of twisting a slight contraction takes place. Consequently,to make the resultant counts 20s, the single yarns that are foldedmust necessarily be slightly finer than, or spun on the light sideof, 40s. However, this contraction will not be considered inthe rules and examples to be given, since it is so slight as not tobe a matter of mathematics.

PLY-YARN CALCULATIONSFolded Yarns of the Same Counts.It is not customary in

mills to fold yams of different counts, since, unless novelty orspecial yams are required, single yams of equal counts m.ake thebest double, or ply, yams. Consequently, when yams of thesame counts are folded, in order to find the counts of the result-

ing ply yam, it is simply necessary to divide the counts of theyams folded by the number of threads that constitute the plyyam. For example, if three threads of 90s cotton are foldedto form a ply yarn, the resultant yam will be equivalent inweight to a single 30s (90 -J- 3 = 30) . The counts of the ply yamand the counts of the single yam that equal it in weight shouldbe carefully distinguished; thus, the above yam is equal inweight to a single 30s, but is spoken of as a 3/90s, or 3-ply 90s.


The method of finding the counts, weight, and length ofply yarns is similar to that explained in connection with singleyarns, with the exception that the counts of the ply yam do notindicate the actual counts of the thread but instead indicate thecounts of the single yams folded. Consequently, when figuringto find these particulars, the actual weight of the ply yam mustbe taken into consideration, and, on this account, the counts ofthe single yam that the ply yarn equals are considered and notthe counts of the single yarns that are folded.Example 1.What is the weight of 642,000 yd. of 2-ply

40s cotton yam?642,000

Solution. = 38.211b.20X840

Explanation.To make a 2-ply 40s, two ends of 40s aretwisted together; consequently, a yard of the ply yarn willweigh just twice as much as a yard of one of the single yamsfolded, which will make the ply yam equal in weight to a 20ssingle yam. Therefore, 20, which is the actual counts of theply yam, is used in the calculation. Since length divided by(counts multiplied by standard) equals weight, then 642,000 -r-(20X840) must equal the weight of the yam.Example 2.What is the length of 20 lb. of 2-ply 36s

cotton?

Solution. 20X 18X 840= 302,400 yd.Explanation.^A 2-ply 36s is composed of two threads of 36s

folded together; consequently, the weight of a yard of the plyyarn must be just twice that of a yard of one of the ends foldedto make the ply yam. This will make the ply yam equal inweight to an 18s single yam, and 18s must be used as the countsof the ply yam in the calculation. Since weight times countstimes standard equals length, then 20X 18X840 must equal thenumber of yards in 20 lb. of 2-ply 36s.Example 3.What are the counts of a 2-ply cotton yam,

352,800 yd. of which weighs 10 lb.?352,800

Solution. =42s, or 2-ply 84s10X840

Explanation.Since length divided by (weight timesstandard) equals counts, then 352,800-^(10X840) must give


the actual counts of the ply yam; that is, this result gives thecounts of the ply yam considered as a single yam, but sincetwo single yams are folded and each of these is just half asheavy as the folded yam, then two ends of 84s must be foldedto make the ply yam, which, consequently, wiU be known as a2-ply 84s.Folded Yams of Different Counts.^Although not a common

practice, in some cases, especially when it is desired to make afancy yam, two yarns of different counts are folded and some-times two yarns of different materials.

Suppose, for illustration, that it is desired to find the resultantcounts of a 40s cotton folded with a 203 cotton. Take as abasis 840 yd. of each yarn; then 840 yd. of the 40s weighs :^ lb.

;

840 yd. of the 20s weighs^ lb. Consequently, after these yamsare folded, there will be 840 yd. of a ply yam the weight ofwhichis5ny+5V=A lb.The example now resolves itself into the following: What

are the counts of a yarn 840 yd. of which weighs s lb? Sincelength divided by (weight times standard) equals counts, then,

840= 13.33s, counts of the ply yam.

AX840This example has been worked out to some length in order

that the method of ntunbering ply yams may be thoroughlyunderstood. A shorter method, hov/ever, is as follows

:

RuleTo find the resultant count when two threads of differentnumbers are folded, multiply the two counts together and divide theresult thus obtained by the sum of the counts.Example.Same as previous example.

40X20Solution. = 13.33s, counts

40+20Ply Yarns Composed of More Than Two Threads.In many

cases it will be necessary to find the counts of a ply yarn madefrom more than two single threads, when a somewhat differentprocess must be folllowed. For example, suppose that threesingle threads24s, 36s, and 72s, respectivelyare folded toform a ply yam and it is required to ascertain the counts of theresultant yarn. This may be done by following the rule pre-viously given and performing two operations as follows:


First find the counts of the yam that would result fromfolding the 24s with the 38s as follows:

24X36= 14.4s

24+36The example then resolves itself into the following: What

are the counts of a ply yam made from one thread of 14.4s andone of 72s?

14.4X72= 12s

14.4+72

A somewhat shorter method than this may be applied to 3or more ply yarns made from different counts.

Rule.Take the highest counts and divide it by itself and byeach of the other counts. Add the results thus obtained anddivide this result into the highest counts.

Note.^Although it is common practice to use the highestcounts as a dividend, this is not absolutely esssential, as anycounts, or in fact any number, may be used as the dividendand the correct answer obtained.

ExAMPi-E.Same as given previously.Solution. 72 -=-72 = 1

72--36 = 2

72 :-24 = 3

672^6 = 12s

Rule.To find the resultant counts when more than one end ofthe different counts are folded, divide the highest counts by itselfand by each of the other counts. Multiply the result in each caseby the number of ends oftliat counts. Add the results thus obtainedand divide this result into the highest counts.

Example. 4 ends of 80s and 3 ends of 60s are folded toform a ply yam; what are the resultant counts?Solution. 80-^80=1; 1 X4 = 4

80^60=U; 11X3= 48

80-4-8= 10s, resultant countsWhen dealing with ply yams it often becomes necessary to

find the counts of a yam to be folded with another to producea given counts.


Rule.

Multiply the two counts together and divide by iheirdifference.

Example.^What counts must be fofded with a 50s to pro-duce a ply yam equal in v/eight to a 30s?

50X30Solution. = 75s

50-30Proof.^What are the counts of a ply yam made by twisting

a 50s with a 75s?50X75

= 30s50+75

Another calculation is that of finding the required weight ofeach thread folded in order to produce a required weight of theply yam.

Rule.

Find the counts resulting from folding the two or morethreads; then, as the counts of one thread is to the resultant counts

so is the total weight to the weight required of that thread.Example.It is desired to produce 100 lb. of a ply yam com-

posed of an 80s and a 32s twisted together; what will be therequired weight of the 80s and also of the 32s?

80X32Solution, = 22.85s, resultant counts

80+3232:22.85-100:*

100X22.8.Sx= = 71.40 lb. of 32s

3280:22.85 = 100::x;

100X22.85x= = 28.56 lb. of 80s

80In a case similar to the example given above, after the weight

of one thread has been obtained, it is of course only necessaryto subtract that weight from the total weight in order to obtainthe weight of the other thread; or, in case more than twothreads are folded, then the weight of one of these threads mayalways be obtained by subtracting the combined weight of theother threads from the total weight of the ply yam.

Note.In the previous example the weight of the 80s yamplus the weight of the 32s yam should equal the weight ofthe ply yam, but owing to the use of decimals, examples ofthis kind seldom give exact results. Thus, 71.40 lb. +28.56 lb.= 99.96 lb.; whereas the total weight should be 100 lb. -


Althougti the preceding rule states the logical method ofsolving examples of this character, a short-cut method of findingthe weight of the single yams in any given weight of ply yamis as follows:

Rule.

Divide any count by itself and 6y each of the othercounts; add the quotients thus obtained and divide their sum intothe total weight of the ply yarn. The final result is the weight ofthat component yarn the counts of which was used as a dividend.

Calculation of Cost of Ply Yarns If the price of each yam isgiven and it is required to find the price per pound of the resul-tant yam, it becomes necessary to multiply the weight of eachcount of yam by its price, add the results, and divide by thetotal weight. The answer will be the price per pound of theply yam.Example.If in the example previously given, the 80s yam

is worth 72c per pound and the 32s is worth 480 per pound, whatwill be the cost per pound of the ply yam?

Solution.71.40 lb. of 32s at 48c per lb. = $34.27, cost of the 32s yam28.56 lb. of 80s at 72c per lb. = $20.56, cost of the 80s yam

- $34.27+$20.56 = $54.83, total cost of ply yam$54.83-;- 100 = 54.8c per lb., cost of the ply yamAnother rule for finding the price of 2-ply yams when the

threads to be twisted together are of different values and dif-ferent counts is as follows:

Rule.Multiply the highest counts by the price of the lowestcounts and the lowest counts by the price of the highest. Add theresults thus obtained and divide this result by the sum of thecounts. The answer will be the price of the ply yarn.

Example.^A 32s yam costs 42c per pound and a 16s yamcosts 18c per pound; what will be the cost per pound of a plyyarn restdting from twisting these two?

Solution. 32x$.18 = $5.76; 16X$.42 = $6.72$5.76-f$6.72 = $12.48; 32-f 16= 48$12.48-^48 = 26c.

PLY YARNS OF SPUN SILKThe numbering of ply yams made from spun silk will be found

to differ somewhat from the methods previously explained.


Thus, when numbering silk ply yarns, the counts resulting afterfolding the yams is given and this number is followed by thenumber that indicates how many threads are folded.For example, 60/2 spun silk indicates that two threads of

I2O3 have been folded together. Thus, it will be seen that theactual counts of the ply yam are given instead of the countsof the single yam, as is the case in cotton, woolen, and worstedply yams .Example 1.What is the weight of 642,000 yd. of a 40s

2-ply sun silk?642,000

Solution. =19.107 lb.40X840

Explanation.40s 2-ply spun silk is equal in weight to asingle thread of 40s. Consequently, 40 should be consideredas the counts of the ply yam when finding weight or length.Since length divided by (counts times standard) equals weight,the solution given must be correct.Example 2.What is the length of 20 lb. of a 30s 2-ply

spun silk?Solution. 840X30X20 = 504,000 yd.Explanation.A 30s 2-ply spun silk is equal in weight to

a single 30s; consequently, 30 should be considered as thecounts of the ply yarn. Since standard times counts timesweight equals length, 840X30X20 must equal the length ofthe yarn.

Example 3.What are the counts of a 2-ply silk yam if352,800 yd. weighs 10 lb.?

352,800Solution. = 42s 2-ply

10X840Explanation.The counts of the 2-ply yam would be

indicated as follows: 42/2 spun silk, which shows that twoends of 84s have been twisted to make the ply yam.

PLY YARNS OF DIFFERENT MATERIALSIn all cases where threads of different materials are twisted

together, in order to perform any of the calculations previouslyexplained, it becomes necessary first to place these counts inthe same system of numbering yarnd.


Example.A 36s cotton and a 48s worsted are twisted toform a ply yam; what are the counts of the resultant yam?

Solution.It is first necessary to ascertain in which systemthe resultant yarn should be placed. In this case the countsof the ply yam will be found in both the worsted and cottonsystems. In the first case, then, to find the worsted countsof the ply yam resulting from twisting these two yams it isnecessary to find the equivalent counts of the 36s cotton inthe worsted system.

36X840= 54s

560The 36s cotton is found to equal a 54s worsted, so that the

question resolves itself into the following: What are the counts-of a ply yam resuJt

the cotton textile worker's handbook; (1920)

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