“The 7 Wonders of Mystic: Beyond Mystic Pizza”

by Lisa Saunders

When most people think of the tiny seacoast village of Mystic, Connecticut, they think of the movie, “Mystic Pizza,” starring Julia Roberts. Yet when they visit this maritime community located half-way between New York and Boston, they find a lot more than

pizza.

Included in National Geographic’s 100 “America‟s Best Adventure

Towns," this historic shipbuilding district along the Mystic River has welcomed such notable honeymooners as Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall, and currently attracts visitors from all

over the world.

Just like the ancient Greek historians who compiled "The Seven Wonders of the World," I have, with input from locals, compiled a list of seven, awe-inspiring “must-sees” in Mystic. All are free to view on the outside, open year-round, and are within two miles of the Mystic Train Depot.

1. Mystic River Drawbridge

If you‟re strolling across the bridge in historic downtown Mystic happily licking your ice-cream cone and suddenly have ringing in your ears, don‟t be alarmed--everyone else is hearing it too! But you must act fast because the bridge is about

to lift.

Once the bridge operator, who is watching you from a little house perched above, sees that you are safely to one side, he will pull the whistle cord signaling to the mariners on the river below that

the bridge is ready to rise.

Watching the historic 1922 bridge lifted by massive, overhead concrete counterweights is thrilling to pedestrians as well as to the bridge operators, called tenders, who man the bridge

house 24 hours a day (yes, there is a bathroom).

Bridge tender Bruce Sullivan, known around Mystic as “Sully," said, “I have the best view to watch all kinds of vessels go through-- schooners, clippers, sloops, tugboats.” He was particularly excited to watch the maiden voyage

of the Amistad replica, built at Mystic Seaport. ”I‟ve seen the yachts of Steven Spielberg, Clint Eastwood and Phil Donahue.” How does he know those were celebrity yachts? “Because they stood on their decks and waved up to me!”

This National Historic Landmark is itself a celebrity and was prominently featured in the movie,

“Mystic Pizza.” Sully got to meet Julia Roberts and crew during the filming in 1987.

Bridge tender Rod Coleman was especially thrilled to meet former President Jimmy Carter who shook his hand and personally thanked him for keeping the bridge down during the tightly- timed schedule created by Secret Service for Carter‟s motorcade. Carter and former first lady Rosalynn were staying in Mystic for the 2004 christening of the Navy submarine, Jimmy Carter,

in nearby Groton, CT.

Located on Route 1, the Mystic River Drawbridge replaced a steel swing bridge. A prior wooden bridge used oxen to turn the span and another bridge posted the sign, “WALK YOUR HORSES,” to keep vibrations to a minimum. Before the first bridge was built in 1819, people

crossed the river by ferry.

The drawbridge is easily viewed from the restaurants and shops of historic downtown Mystic as

well as the benches of Mystic River Park.

For more information about the history of the Mystic River Drawbridge, visit the Mystic River

Historical Society at mystichistory.org or call 860-536-4779.

2. Charles W. Morgan -- last wooden whaleship in the world

A mammoth wooden boat on dry land—has someone heard it‟s time to build another ark?

Currently towering above the homes along the Mystic River, at the corner of Isham and Bay Streets, is the last wooden whaleship in the world, the Charles W. Morgan. Presently undergoing restoration at Mystic Seaport, this oldest American commercial ship has sailed more leagues of ocean than any other American whaleship in history, witnessing floggings; stowaways; drownings; desertions; amputations; burials at sea; and men who disappeared over the horizon forever in a

“Nantucket sleigh ride”—the high-speed whaleboat ride sometimes given by a harpooned

whale.

Despite the restoration process, paying visitors can climb a staircase to board this lone surviving wooden representation of America‟s first international industry—one the colonists learned from Native American Indians and where a man of color could earn the same wage as a white man.

Visitors to the Morgan will not only see the industry side of whaling, like the brick furnace used

to process the blubber into oil, but they will also see the personal side, such as the captain‟s cabin that includes a private “head” (toilet to the sea), sitting room, and a gimbal (always level)

bed installed by a captain so his wife could sleep comfortably, despite the pitch of the sea.

When you touch the Morgan, launched during the height of the whaling industry in 1841, you

are not only touching a vessel that has survived typhoons, hurricanes, crushing ice, stirrings of a mutiny, and an attack by Pacific Islanders, you are also touching a movie star! Featured in several films, including Steven Spielberg‟s “Amistad,” with Morgan Freeman seen below decks, the Charles W. Morgan can be viewed in her original role as a whaling ship in a 1922 film

playing inside Mystic Seaport.

When actor William Hurt climbed aboard the Morgan to prepare for his role as Captain Ahab in the T.V. mini-series, “Moby Dick,” he sat on a sailor‟s bunk with two Mystic Seaport staff members and talked for an hour about what life aboard a whaleship must have been like. “This is the only place in the world where he could have done that,” said Matthew Stackpole, a

member of the Morgan Restoration Project team.

The Morgan arrived at Mystic Seaport, the nation‟s leading 19-acre maritime museum, in 1941.

Since then, approximately 20 million visitors have crossed her decks.

Mystic Seaport depicts life in a 19th century seafaring village and includes hands-on exhibits for

children. For more information, visit mysticseaport.org or call 860-572-0711.

3. Mystic Pizza Restaurant Sign

How does an ordinary lighted restaurant sign, “Mystic Pizza: A Slice of Heaven,” rate as a Mystic wonder? Because visitors still flock to this symbol of the 1988 romantic comedy, "Mystic Pizza," starring Julia Roberts and debuting Matt Damon (his only line,"Mom, do you want

my green stuff?" was said while eating lobster).

The Zelepos family, owners of Mystic Pizza, state, “Incredibly, our little pizza shop caught the eye of screenwriter Amy Jones, who was summering in the area. Ms. Jones chose Mystic Pizza as the focus and setting for

her story of the lives and loves of three young waitresses.” The movie depicts life in a small

fishing village and was filmed in Mystic and the surrounding communities.

The locals will never forget the day that Hollywood came to town—just ask Mystic shopkeepers, waiters, and tour guides what it was like to accommodate the 80-member film crew. Most have a story to tell—how the bridge operator needed to raise the drawbridge on cue; how local fishermen advised actors on stringing bait; or how they have a friend who moved into a hotel while a scene was shot in her home. Local racing sailor Katie Bradford says, “I‟m friends with the guy, Skip, who was actually steering the boat in the Mystic River scene, but he had to do it lying on his back so an actor would appear steering.” Katie also tells how another friend became

a local celebrity simply because the back of his head made it into the movie!

More than 20 years after the movie‟s release, film production companies still can‟t get enough of Mystic Pizza. Restaurant co-owner John Zelepos recently received a call from California asking if his restaurant and family would star in a reality T.V. show.

If you‟ve never seen the film, given a “two thumbs up” from popular movie critics Siskel and Ebert, you will have your chance by peering into the restaurant where it plays continuously on three screens. “It‟s on mute--otherwise, we‟d go nuts!” confided one waitress. The restaurant sells souvenirs (and pizza, of course) and proudly displays movie photos, posters and newspaper clippings featuring the restaurant. The waitresses even have a little fun by dressing up a mannequin as Daisy, the Julia Roberts character in the film, and changing her hair

accessories to match the colors of the season.

For more information about Mystic Pizza restaurant, visit mysticpizza.com or call (860) 536-3737. To see which scenes were filmed where, follow the movie trail map available at

mysticchamber.org

4. The “Hanging Gardens” of Enders Island

Out of a widow‟s loneliness sprang a stone landscape so intriguing, it should be referred to as the “Hanging Gardens” of Enders Island. But you must stroll through slowly if you hope to appreciate the absurdity of a brass bird spigot beside a cat statue, or the whimsy of a

heart-shaped stone path.

The driving force behind this maze of rock hedges and archways was Alys E. Enders, widow of Dr. Thomas B. Enders, son of the president of Aetna Life Insurance Company. Having outlived Thomas by many years, Alys found a way to ensure companionship on her 11-acre island estate.

“She was always adding onto her mansion and gardens just to keep the workers from leaving the grounds!” says Jeffrey Anderson, Executive Director of St. Edmunds Retreat, the Catholic oasis that now occupies the island. Alys donated her estate to the Catholic Church upon her death in 1954.

Worried you might not be welcome—especially if you‟re not Catholic? The website states: “Not a Catholic? Not a problem…all are welcomed to enjoy the peaceful natural beauty of our island.”

And peace you will surely find as you listen to the waves of Fishers Island Sound slap against the rocky shore and stroll past tiled pools, fountains, and Alys‟s former tea house, the three-sided “Seaside Chapel” that protects an altar covered with hand-written prayers, funeral cards of missed loved ones, and unlit cigarettes cast off by repentant smokers. On the concrete floor are

Alys‟s initials, A.E.E., presumably engraved by her in 1951.

The island‟s mansion and chapel, which displays relics, including the actual arm of Saint Edmund who preached for the Sixth Crusade in 1228, are used for twelve step recovery programs, spiritual development retreats, sacred art workshops and daily mass. Jams and jellies (some with names like "Fire and Brimstone" Hot Pepper Jelly), which are made from fruit

grown on the island, are available in the gift shop.

Although you must travel the private roads of Masons Island to reach Enders Island, you are

allowed to pass through this gated community if St. Edmund‟s Retreat is your destination.

For more information about St. Edmunds Retreat, visit endersisland.com or call 860-536-0565.

5. Elm Grove Cemetery Memorial Arch

The “Pearly Gates?” Not exactly-- these gates are made of iron, but the colossal arch to the Elm Grove Cemetery does beckon you in. Afraid to cross through the Memorial Arch to the “other” side? Well, if you‟re a bride, you‟ll actually be sent

there!

Located along the Mystic River, one hotel representative said of the cemetery, “It is the most valuable real estate in Mystic-- too bad the people there can‟t enjoy it! But we do recommend it for wedding photography because it is so very beautiful.”

The founders of this “garden cemetery,” designed in the shape of an elm tree, intended the public to stroll leisurely along the river to view statues of women in flowing robes, angels, marble benches, mausoleums, and even a duck pond--with some very strange looking ducks collected from local county fairs, farms, and hatcheries. “We have White Pekings, Muschovies, Kyugas, Blue Swiss, and Mallards,” says James Davis, superintendent of the cemetery. The ducks are

fed 50 pounds of pelletized food per week.

More than 13,000 souls, many on Mystic‟s “Who‟s Who” list of 19th century ship builders and sea captains, have been laid to rest there. If you‟re in the mood to read, bring your tissues because one old grave marker tells how a two-year-old daughter drowned on New Year‟s Day in 1858; and an obelisk depicting the steamship, City of Waco, tells how Captain Thomas E. Wolfe

died piloting her when it caught fire off the port of Galveston in 1875. During the Civil War, Wolfe had commanded a vessel that transported supplies from New York to New Orleans until his capture by the Confederate navy. His boat burned, he was taken prisoner but made a daring escape more than a year later. After the war, he became a pilot for the State of Texas until his steamship exploded in flames and sank, killing all onboard. Wolfe‟s body was recovered and shipped to Mystic.

“Another captain from Mystic who is buried at Elm Grove is Joseph Warren Holmes who has the distinction of rounding Cape Horn safely 84 times as a sailing ship master. This is a record that

still stands,” says Bill Peterson, Mystic historian.

The Mystic citizens were so supportive of the new Elm Grove Cemetery, formally dedicated in 1854, that some dug up their dead relatives and replanted them there. But they were outraged in the 1890s when the widow of a prominent shipbuilder donated funds in her husband‟s memory for the erection of the Memorial Arch entryway, because it meant the removal of two elms to accommodate its massive span. Despite the public outcry against a manmade object replacing “Nature‟s grand handiwork,” the trees came down, stone cutters were imported from Italy, and the Memorial Arch was completed with the verse, “He Giveth His Beloved Sleep,”

engraved across the back.

Perhaps the citizens learned to appreciate the Memorial Arch after the Hurricane of 1938—for it

survived, but half of the cemetery‟s trees did not.

For more information, visit elmgrovecemetery.org or call (860) 536-7834.

6. Mystic Aquarium’s Ocean Planet Pavilion

Strolling through Olde Mistick Village, a colonial, New England style shopping center, you will travel back in time as you nibble your homemade fudge. Then suddenly, you are shocked into another world when you catch sight of a massive, blue crown-like structure

rising out of the back parking lot.

Although you might wonder if you are about to come face to face with King Neptune, what you are actually seeing is the outside structure of Mystic Aquarium‟s Challenge of the Deep exhibition, where its creator, the discoverer of the grave of the R.M.S. Titanic,

Dr. Robert Ballard, keeps his home office.

Your reaction to this nautical sighting is exactly what famed international architect,

Cesar Pelli, was going for. He states, “The sculptural form of the building is focused inward, invoking the sense of mystery to be discovered in the depths of the ocean below.” Pelli has designed some of the world‟s most recognizable structures, including the Petronas Towers in Malaysia, formerly the world's tallest buildings; and Canary Wharf Tower in London, Britain‟s

tallest building.

Challenge of the Deep is attached to Mystic Aquarium, where Pelli also designed the glass entryway canopy. Reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty‟s crown, it‟s called the Ocean Planet Pavilion. Pelli‟s goal here is to transform the visitor into an explorer. He states: “In this aquarium,

the visitors have entered a new environment-- they have left behind our known world.”

But don‟t worry, when you cross under the glass canopy to enter this “unknown world,” you will not be alone. Seagulls perched on the canopy tips welcome you in and smaller birds flit among the rafters above. Erin Merz of Mystic Aquarium, says, “We happily invite birds to nest in the

Ocean Planet Pavilion and do not remove them. Most of the birds are sparrows.”

Mystic Aquarium has one of the nation‟s largest outdoor tanks for beluga whales, and paying visitors are given the opportunity to actually touch them, as well as the penguins, sharks, and sting rays. Included in the visit is Challenge of the Deep, which highlights underwater film footage of the discovery of the R.M.S. Titanic, and equipment used for deep-sea exploration, such as the submersible, Turtle, which is the sister submersible of Alvin, the vehicle that

provided the first glimpse of the Titanic.

For more information about Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration, visit mysticaquarium.org or call 860-572-5955.

For more information about Olde Mistick Village, which includes a Visitor Information Center with discount shopping coupons, and a movie theater and playhouse, visit

oldemistickvillage.com or call (860) 536-4941.

7. Mystic Depot--model for American Flyer’s toy

train station

Whether you arrive by train or are driving by the Mystic Depot, you may wonder, “Haven‟t I seen this

train station before?”

Yes, you may have—and you may have even played with a miniature version of it. Constructed in 1905, the Mystic Train Depot served as the inspiration for American Flyer‟s “talking” toy train stations, which were made in the mid 1900s. Now a collector‟s item, the toy model bearing the name “Mystic” can be viewed and even touched at Mystic Depot. When you press the button on the model, you‟ll hear a far-a-way, long- ago train whistle and a conductor announce in a crackly voice, “All aboard…New York,

Philadelphia, Chicago and all points west. Aboard!”

The real depot now serves Amtrak's Northeast Regional train, which brings visitors from New York City and Boston, and as the Greater Mystic Chamber of Commerce‟s Welcome Center & Cyber Cafe, where visitors will find free maps, travel brochures, computers with Internet access, and friendly advice.

College student Dave Cloutier volunteers at the center simply because he loves Mystic. He especially enjoys stopping in Mystic‟s historic downtown to “grab a coffee and chat with the people around me.” Well-read, he delights in sharing his little-known secrets with others. “I love seeing the look on visitors‟ faces when they discover something neat about Mystic.” If you like

storm stories, he can tell you all about what happened to the area during the Hurricane of 1938.

The Welcome Center volunteers can tell you where to find hiking trails, launchings sites for your kayaks, and views of “tall ships.” The Welcome Center also sells discount tickets to Mystic Seaport and to the Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration; distributes free paperbacks donated by the Friends of the Mystic & Noank Library; and provides free bike rentals (deposit

required).

The Welcome Center also serves as a small museum where visitors can see a 900-pound bell from the 1904 U.S.S. Connecticut, a battleship famous for leading President Theodore Roosevelt‟s “Great White Fleet” cruise around the world and used to transport troops during WWI; a model of the first nuclear submarine, Nautilus, which is free to visit at the Submarine

Force Museum in nearby Groton; and a stuffed bobcat from the Denison Nature Center.

“The 7 Wonders of Mystic” are all located within two miles of Mystic Depot. For more information about touring Mystic, including other locations for free bike rentals and a list of attractions, restaurants and accommodations, visit: mysticchamber.org or call 860-572-1102. For Amtrak‟s

train schedule to Mystic, visit: amtrak.com

***

It was difficult to pick the top seven wonders of Mystic, so the community is voting for an “8th

Wonder” from the following worthy contenders:

Mystic River Railroad Bridge, the swing bridge that opens for boats “Captain’s Row,” the 19th century Greek revival homes along Mystic River (one former

owner built coffins in the basement, another housed the Underground Railroad, and one broke sailing records)

Mystic & Noank Library, with its ornate architecture that includes a second floor

vaulted ceiling designed like a ship‟s keel, a comfy window seat, oriental carpets and an ongoing group puzzle

Denison Homestead, built in 1717 and continuously owned for three centuries by the same family (admission charged to enter)

Mystic River’s Art Trail--my term for the several art galleries from the Maritime Gallery

at Mystic Seaport to the Mystic Arts Center on Water Street Mystic Waterfront Views—19th century buildings lining both shores Old goose named Gloria at Olde Mistick Village--the regal yet cranky, arthritic goose

that has been reigning over the duck pond since the mid-1980s

You may add your voice to the vote up until January 15, 2011. To cast your vote from the above points of interest (all fit the criteria of being free to view on the outside, open year-round, and within Mystic‟s zip code of 06355), visit Stonington-Mystic Patch, an online newspaper, at:

http://stonington.patch.com/articles/cast-your-vote-for-the-eighth-wonder-of-

mystic

About Lisa Saunders

Lisa Saunders is a marketing and writing consultant living in Mystic, CT, with her husband and beagle/basset hound, Bailey. The author of several books and articles, her work can be viewed at www.authorlisasaunders.com or contact

saundersbooks@aol.com

P.S. If you are curious why you would even consider voting for Gloria the Goose as the 8th Wonder, the following is her "back story" that first appeared in the Mystic River Press on December 16, 2010:

"Gloria the goose survives to see another Christmas"

by Lisa Saunders

Despite the name of the shop, The Gray Goose Cookery, it does not specialize in cooking geese—instead, this gourmet kitchen store was instrumental in saving Gloria, the regal yet cranky, arthritic goose residing at Olde Mistick Village, a

colonial style outdoor shopping center.

“Earlier this year, an employee of The Gray Goose Cookery told us that Gloria was ailing,” says Christine Robertson, Office Manager of Olde Mistick Village. “She looked a little sluggish to

them. She wasn‟t her normal, feisty self.”

Gloria first came to Village in the mid 1980s when her owner could no longer care for her. Knowing

the Village maintained duck ponds for their shoppers to enjoy, her owner thought Gloria could live out her life among the ducks who were permanent residents there. A goose in captivity can

live up to 40 years.

When the Village office learned that Gloria wasn‟t feeling well, they called in a vet. “These birds are part of our family, and Gloria is the reigning bird. We call her Queen Gloria because she is very bossy and hisses when displeased—but she is very protective of her subjects—especially the swan we once had named Gracie. They were good friends and if a duck or person got too

close to the swan, Gloria would warn them off with a hiss.”

The vet, who doesn‟t know for sure if Gloria is a female, discovered that she had an infection. So every day, the maintenance man in charge of feeding the birds caught Gloria and held her close to his chest so Robertson could give her an injection. “She started feeling better after the first day, so catching her for the rest of the treatment was almost impossible!” Gloria recovered completely, and despite her arthritis and a slight limp, is still reigning as queen in the main duck

pond.

And what happens if age and arthritis eventually get the better of Gloria? “We have a duck pond near the maintenance barn that we call the „Geriatric Ward.‟ That is where we retire all the birds

who are too old or feeble to defend themselves from an aggressive duck.”

Spring is a particularly busy time at the Village because of mating season. Ducks fly in to raise their ducklings then fly off again. Many, however, live at the Village year-round. “Why would they want to leave?” asks Robertson. “They have everything they need here.” They are fed five, 50-

pound bags of duck food per week by the maintenance crew and the public can feed them duck

pellets purchased from Franklin‟s General Store at the Village.

For more information about Olde Mistick Village, which includes a Visitor Information Center with discount shopping coupons, and a movie theater and playhouse, visit oldemistickvillage.com or call (860) 536-4941. Olde Mistick Village is also Mystic‟s bus stop for Peter Pan Bus Lines, bringing visitors from New York City and Boston. For a schedule, visit

peterpanbus.com.